sonny-dev/inters-qdu huggingface dataset:
Query: When should you use an actively managed mutual fund in a 401k?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> "For US stocks it's a bit of a gamble. Many actively managed funds underperform the market indexes, but some of them outperform in many years. With an index you will get average results. With an active manager you ""might"" do better than average. So you can view active management as a higher risk, potentially higher reward investment approach. On the other hand, if you want to diversify some of your investments into international stocks, bonds, junk bonds, and real estate (REITs) active management is highly likely to be better than indexing. For these specialized areas specialized knowledge and research is needed."

 <=SEP=> By definition, actively managed funds will underperform passive index funds as a whole. Or more specifically: The aggregate performance of all actively managed portfolio of publicly-tradable assets will have equal performance to those of passively managed portfolios. Which taken with premise two: Actively managed funds will charge higher fees than passively managed funds Results in: In general, lower-fee investment vehicles (e.g. passive index investments) with broad enough diversification to the desired risk exposure will outperform higher-fee options But don't take my wonkish approach, from a more practical perspective consider:
Query: Should I always hold short term bonds till maturity?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> Risk is reduced but isn't zero The default risk is still there, the issuer can go bankrupt, and you can still loose all or some of your money if restructuring happens. If the bond has a callable option, the issuer can retire them  if conditions are favourable for the issuer, you can still loose some of your investment. Callable schedule should be in the bond issuer's prospectus while issuing the bond. If the issuer is in a different country, that brings along a lot of headaches of recovering your money if something goes bad i.e. forex rates can go up and down. YTM, when the bond was bought was greater than risk free rate(govt deposit rates) Has to be greater than the risk free rate, because of the extra risk you are taking. Reinvestment risk is less because of the short term involved(I am assuming 2-3 years at max), but you should also look at the coupon rate of your bond, if it isn't a zero-coupon bond, and how you invest that. would it be ideal to hold the bond till maturity irrespective of price change It always depends on the current conditions. You cannot be sure that everything is fine, so it pays to be vigilant. Check the health of the issuer, any adverse circumstances, and the overall economy as a whole. As you intend to hold till maturity you should be more concerned about the serviceability of the bond by the issuer on maturity and till then.
Query: Are Australian mutual fund fees large compared to US?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> This is a Vanguard-specific difference in the sense that in the US, Vanguard is a leader in lowering management fees for the mutual funds  that they offer. Of course, several US mutual fund companies have also been lowering the expense ratio of their mutual funds in recent years because more and  more investors have been paying attention to this particular performance parameter, and opting for funds that have low expense ratios. But many US funds have not reduced their expense ratios very much and continue to have expense ratios of 1% or even higher.  For example, American Funds Developing World Growth and Income Fund (DWGAX) charges a 1.39% expense ratio while their 2060 Retirement Fund (AANTX) charges 1.12% (the funds also have a 5.75% sales charge); Putnam Capital Opportunities Fund charges 1.91% for their Class C shares, and so on.   Many funds with high expense ratios (and sometimes sales charges as well) show up as options in far too many 401(k) plans, especially 401(k) plans of small companies, because small companies do not enjoy economies of scale and do not have much negotiating power when dealing with 401(k) custodians and administrators.
Query: Has the likelihood of getting a lower interest rate by calling & asking been reduced by recent credit card regulations?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> "I don't know that this can actually be answered objectively.  Maybe it can with some serious research.  (Read: data on what the issuers have been doing since the law went into affect.) Personally, I think the weak economy and general problems with easy credit are a bigger issue than the new rules.  Supposedly, there is evidence that card issuers are trying to make up for the lost income due to the new regulations with higher fees.  I believe that your credit rating and history with the issuer is a larger factor now.  In other words, they may be less likely to lower your rate just to keep you as a customer or to attract new customers. According to The Motley Fool, issuers dropped their riskiest customers as a result of the new regulations. Some say that new laws simply motivated the issuers to find new ways to ""gouge"" their customers. Here are two NYTimes blog posts about the act: http://bucks.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/02/22/what-the-credit-card-act-means-for-you/ http://bucks.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/07/22/the-effects-of-the-credit-card-act/ As JohnFx states, it does not hurt to ask."
Query: What to ask Warren Buffet at the Berkshire Hathaway shareholder meeting?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> For whatever it's worth, when I went to the meeting a couple of years ago, the question and answer segment is mostly students asking how to pick a stock or what book they should read.  I'm sure someone else will ask but it would be interesting to hear their take on the Syrian refugee situation in Europe and how it may impact the EU in general.  Or how he/they think the drought in the south western region of the US will impact the national economy, if at all.  Like Keshlam says, if YOU don't care about the answer there's really no point to asking the question. The most important thing you can do is listen to what he and Munger have to say.  The way they think is interesting and they have great rapport with eachother.  It's a great experience and unfortunately I wasn't able to make my schedule work to attend this year.  It's almost comical how many cans of Coke Warren will knock out through the day.   Another fun thing to do is take the shuttle to the airstrip to check out the NetJets.  I wish I had the interest and wherewithal to go when I was 16...

 <=SEP=> I would be curious how he balanced having two female life partners at once. Not sure I would ask that at the shareholder meeting though ;)
Query: what is the best way of investment which gives returns forever?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> "What is the best way that I can invest money so that I can always get   returns? Would it be to set up an FD in a bank, to buy land, to buy a   rental house, to buy a field, or maybe to purchase gold? Forever is a long time. Of the options you listed, the only one guaranteed to generate returns is a bank account. The returns may well be very small, but (absent an economy-wide financial failure) you will get the stated return. Land doesn't always retain its value, nor do rental houses or fields. Gold clearly fluctuates. But you would be better served to think about goals and how you can attain them. What do you want to do with the ""returns""? If you are trying to set yourself up for purchasing a home, paying for college, or retirement, then the small returns on a bank account may be insufficient. And in that case you might be better served by worrying more about the size of the returns you need than the certainty of them. There may be many ""better investments"" if you more clearly define what you expect to achieve by your investment."

 <=SEP=> What is the best way that I can invest money so that I can always get   returns? If you want something that doesn't require any work on your end, consider having a fee-only financial planner make a plan so that your investments can be automated to generate a cash flow for you or get an annuity as the other classic choices here as most other choices will require some time commitment in one form or other. Note that for stock investments there could be rare instances like what happened for a week in September in 2001 where the markets were closed for 5 days straight that can be the hiccup in having stocks. Bonds can carry a risk of default where there have been municipalities that defaulted on debt as well as federal governments like Russia in the 1990s. Real estate may be subject to natural disasters or other market forces that may prevent there always being a monthly payment coming as if you own a rental property then what happens if there aren't tenants because there was an evacuation of the area? There may be some insurance products to cover some of these cases though what if there are exceptionally high claims all at once that may have an insurance company go under? Would it be to set up an FD in a bank, to buy land, to buy a rental   house, to buy a field, or maybe to purchase gold?  What investment of your own time do you plan on making here? Both in terms of understanding what your long-term strategy is and then the maintenance of the plan. If you put the money in the bank, are you expecting that the interest rate will always be high enough to give you sufficient cash to live as well as having no financial crisis with the bank or currency you are using? Are there any better investments? You may want to reconsider what assumptions you want to make and what risks you want to accept as there isn't likely to be a single solution here that would be perfect.
Query: How should I save money if the real interest rate (after inflation) is negative?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> Inflation protected securities (i-bonds or TIPS).   TIPS stands for Treasury Inflation Protected Securities. By very definition, they tend to protect your savings against inflation. They won't beat inflation, but will keep up with it. TIPS or iBonds have two parts. A fixed interest part and a variable interest portion which varies depending upon the current rates. The combined rate would match the inflation rate. They can be bought directly from the treasury (or from a broker or bank who might charge a commission)

 <=SEP=> "(Real) interest rates are so low because governments want people to use their money to improve the economy by spending or investing rather than saving. Their idea is that by consuming or investing you will help to create jobs that will employ people who will spend or invest their pay, and so on. If you want to keep this money for the future you don't want to spend it and interest rates make saving unrewarding therefore you ought to invest. That was the why, now the how. Inflation protected securities, mentioned in another answer, are the least risk way to do this. These are government guaranteed and very unlikely to default. On the other hand deflation will cause bigger problems for you and the returns will be pitiful compared with historical interest rates. So what else can be done? Investing in companies is one way of improving returns but risk starts to increase so you need to decide what risk profile is right for you.  Investing in companies does not mean having to put money into the stock market either directly or indirectly (through funds) although index tracker funds have good returns and low risk. The corporate bond market is lower risk for a lesser reward than the stock market but with better returns than current interest rates. Investment grade bonds are very low risk, especially in the current economic climate and there are exchange traded funds (ETFs) to diversify more risk away. Since you don't mention willingness to take risk or the kind of amounts that you have to save I've tried to give some low risk options beyond ""buy something inflation linked"" but you need to take care to understand the risks  of any product you buy or use, be they a bank account, TIPS, bond investments or whatever. Avoid anything that you don't fully understand."
Query: HSBC Hong Kong's “Deposit Plus” Product: What is it, and what strategies to employ?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> "HSBC, Hang Seng, and other HK banks had a series of special savings account offers when I lived in HK a few years ago.  Some could be linked to the performance of your favorite stock or country's stock index. Interest rates were higher back then, around 6% one year.  What they were effectively doing is taking the interest you would have earned and used it to place a bet on the stock or index in question.  Technically, one way this can be done, for instance, is with call options and zero coupon bonds or notes.  But there was nothing to strategize with once the account was set up, so the investor did not need to know how it worked behind the scenes... Looking at the deposit plus offering in particular, this one looks a little more dangerous than what I describe.  See, now we are in an economy of low almost zero interest rates.  So to boost the offered rate the bank is offering you an account where you guarantee the AUD/HKD rate for the bank in exchange for some extra interest.  Effectively they sell AUD options (or want to cover their own AUD exposures) and you get some of that as extra interest.  Problem is, if the AUD declines, then you lose money because the savings and interest will be converted to AUD at a contractual rate that you are agreeing to now when you take the deposit plus account.  This risk of loss is also mentioned in the fine print. I wouldn't recommend this especially if the risks are not clear. If you read the fine print, you may determine you are better off with a multicurrency account, where you can change your HK$ into any currency you like and earn interest in that currency. None of these were ""leveraged"" forex accounts where you can bet on tiny fluctuations in currencies.  Tiny being like 1% or 2% moves.  Generally you should beware anything offering 50:1 or more leverage as a way to possibly lose all of your money quickly. Since you mentioned being a US citizen, you should learn about IRS form TD F 90-22.1 (which must be filed yearly if you have over $10,000 in foreign accounts) and google a little about the ""foreign account tax compliance act"", which shows a shift of the government towards more strict oversight of foreign accounts."

 <=SEP=> 15-19% gains also includes 15-19% and greater losses. They may not be required to disclose that to you in Hong Kong. If it isn't a leveraged account then that isn't too bad. Hong Kong is a nice jurisdiction, The US Federal Government is the only person you don't hide your assets from - but they dont want anything - so just report the accounts as commanded and you'll be A-Okay.

 <=SEP=> "HSBC Hong Kong's “Deposit Plus” Product"" the same as ""Dual Currency Product"" .  it's Currency link Sell base Currency Call / Alternative Currency Put FX Option It's not protected by the Deposit Insurance System in HK You can search Key Word ""Dual Currency Product"" & ""Dual Currency Investment"" & ""Dual Currency Deposit"" The only one  of the world's foreign exchange structured product book 『雙元貨幣產品 Dual Currency Product』 ISBN 9789574181506"
Query: Why government bonds fluctuate so much, even though interest rates don't change that often?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> Long term gov't bonds fluctuate in price with a seemingly small interest rate fluctuation because many years of cash inflows are discounted at low rates.  This phenomenon is dulled in a high interest rate environment. For example, just the principal repayment is worth ~1/3, P * 1/(1+4%)^30, what it will be in 30 years at 4% while an overnight loan paying an unrealistic 4% is worth essentially the same as the principal, P * 1/(1+4%)^(1/365). This is more profound in low interest rate economies because, taking the countries undergoing the present misfortune, one can see that their overnight interest rates are double US long term rates while their long term rates are nearly 10x as large as US long term rates.  If there were much supply at the longer maturities which have been restrained by interest rates only manageable by the highly skilled or highly risky, a 4% increase on a 30% bond is only about a 20% decline in bond price while a 4% increase on a 4% bond is a 50% decrease. The easiest long term bond to manipulate quantitatively is the perpetuity where p is the price of the bond, i is the interest payment per some arbitrary period usually 1 year, and r is the interest rate paid per some arbitrary period usually 1 year.  Since they are expressly linked, a price can be implied for a given interest rate and vice versa if the interest payment is known or assumed. At a 4% interest rate, the price is At 4.04%, the price is , a 1% increase in interest rates and a 0.8% decrease in price . Longer term bonds such as a 30 year or 20 year bond will not see as extreme price movements. The constant maturity 30 year treasury has fluctuated between 5% and 2.5% to ~3.75% now from before the Great Recession til now, so prices will have more or less doubled and then reduced because bond prices are inversely proportional to interest rates as generally shown above. At shorter maturities, this phenomenon is negligible because future cash inflows are being discounted by such a low amount.  The one month bill rarely moves in price beyond the bid/ask spread during expansion but can be expected to collapse before a recession and rebound during.
Query: Finance, Cash or Lease?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> "Now, to buy in full (and essentially have zero savings), buy in part (£10000 deposit, followed by a loan of £4000) or PCP/HP more of the value? So, you are assessing if the car is worth having with either none or only 4,000 in savings. This is the most critical information you have provided.   My outright opinion is to always buy a mildly used car as I hate the idea of loans and interest. With the amount of money that you currently possess, I believe the ""Buy-in-part"" option is best as it reduces your interest liability; but, I don't believe you should do it currently. 4,000 is a rather small cash fund for if something were to go boom in the night.   As for your question of interest: This is completely dependent on the amount you are able to pay per period and the total interest you are willing to spend, rows four and seven respectively. This is your money, and no one can tell you what's best to do with it than yourself. Keep looking for good leasing deals or if you think you can survive financial strife with 4,000 then follow your heart. ""Depreciation"" fluctuates to the buyer, so never assume what the car may lose in the next 2-3 years. Hope it all goes well my friend."
Query: How to fix Finance::Quote to pull quotes in GnuCash

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> "The Yahoo Finance API is no longer available, so Finance::Quote needs to point at something else.  Recent versions of Finance::Quote can use AlphaVantage as a replacement for the Yahoo Finance API, but individual users need to acquire and input an AlphaVantage API key. Pretty decent documentation for how to this is available at the GnuCash wiki. Once you've followed the directions on the wiki and set the API key, you still need to tell each individual security to use AlphaVantage rather than Yahoo Finance: As a warning, I've been having intermittent trouble with AlphaVantage.  From the GnuCash wiki:  Be patient. Alphavantage does not have the resources that Yahoo! did and it is common for quote requests to time out, which GnuCash will present as ""unknown error"". I've certainly been experiencing those errors, though not always."

 <=SEP=> The yahoo finance API is no longer which broke the Finance:Quote perl module.  The Finance:Quote developers have been quick to fix things and have produced several new versions in the last week or two.  The short of it is that you need to update Finance:Quote, then obtain an AlphaVantage free key and tell Gnucash to use AlphaVantage as it's source for online quotes by editing your securities in the Price Editor.
Query: Better to get loan from finance company or bank considering the drop of credit score?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> If your primary concern is a drop in your credit score, go to a mortgage broker instead of multiple banks and finance companies. Each time you ask a bank or financial institution for a loan, they do a hard pull on your credit rating which costs you a couple of points. Visit a dozen lenders and you'll lose 24 points. You will also be signalling to lenders that you're shopping for money. If you visit a mortgage broker he does a single hard pull on your credit score and offers your loan query to a dozen or more lenders, some of which you may not have even heard of. This costs you 2 points instead of 24. If you are only going to visit one financial institution or another specific one, the drop in credit score is the same couple of points. The above answer only applies if you make loan inquiries at multiple institutions.
Query: Personal finance app where I can mark transactions as “reviewed”?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> "Otto, I totally agree with you. That feature would be awesome addition to mint. Have you thought of adding Custom tag called ""reviewed"" and just mark that to the transaction.  Ved"

 <=SEP=> "On mint, you can create your own tags for transactions.  So, you could create a tag called ""reviewed"" and tag each transaction as reviewed once you review it.  I've done something similar to this called ""reimbursable expense"" to tag which purchases I made on behalf of someone else who is going to pay me back."

 <=SEP=> Not web-based, but both Moneydance and You Need A Budget allow this.

 <=SEP=> I had exactly the same need and I ended up using BillGuard and I like it.  At the end of the day, it sends an alert where I need to review all the transactions - takes hardly 5seconds and I am on top of all transactions.  From the last 1yr I have found 1 fraudulent and 2 duplicate charge using billguard. Didn't really save a ton of money but its useful to understand how you use your credit card. Don't work for or promoting the app, its just useful.
Query: What is the formula for the Tesla Finance calculation?

Relevant passages:
 <=SEP=> From here The formula is M = P * ( J / (1 - (1 + J)^ -N)). M: monthly payment RESULT = 980.441... P: principal or amount of loan 63963 (71070 - 10% down * 71070) J: monthly interest; annual interest divided by 100, then divided by 12. .00275 (3.3% / 12) N: number of months of amortization, determined by length in years of loan. 72 months See this wikipedia page for the derivation of the formula