Year: 1873




Dear Brother,-Before leaving this city
for Naples, on Monday, l must have part
ing word about Rome. I have been to the
Tarpeian Rock, which oyerloOks the Ghetto,
or Jews portion of the city. The houses
are built close up to the rock, but there is
an open space which gives some idea of Its
present height, about fifty or sixty feet
How much the accumulations of time and
preparations for building may have raised
the ground below, cannot now be known,
but the rock was probably much higher when
it was used for the execution of persons
whom the authorities wished to Destroy
Another day we drove across the bridge on
the Tber, over which the troops of Maxentius
led on the last struggle for the defence Of
Rome, and went up the river four or five
miles. On the right was the broad, level
campagna, extending to the river; on the
lefs-far~sE~Fsat part Of the Way range Nfi
precipitous rocks-focks of fat merinO sheep
were grazing where it was practicable for
grass and sheep. Several families were liv-
ing in natural grottOs in the rock. On the
Campsgua were several herds Of cattle
The scene was altogether picturesque. On
our return we stopped at the church Trinita
del Monte to see the famous freseO Of the
Descent from the Cross, by Daniel Vattsra.
Ii is on the wall above the altar. This Is
considered one of the most beautiful fres-
Goes in the world. On one side of the wall
is a freseo of the Virgin and the Infant
Jesus; the wise men are offering their gifts.
On the other side is picture of Adam and
Eve.


This morning made second visit to the
gallery Rospsiosi to see the celebrated fres-
co of Aurora, by Guido. Aurora, in the
form of a beautiful woman, is floating grace
fully in the air, in advance of the chariot
of the sun, dispelling the darkness and scat
tering flowers. Apollo, with fair complex
ion and fair, curly hair, is seated in his
chariot surrounded by twelve female figures
representing the hours; the fiery steeds
are dashing furiOusly along; the morning
star, borne by an angel, is in the air above
the horses heads. Nothing could surpasS
the poetic beauty of the whole picture,
which well deserves all the celebrity it has
obtained. If have mentioned this picture
before, it was after hurried visit, and with
very inadequate and erroneous conceptions
Of it.


The palace Barbarinni has some fine old
paintings, several of them by Rubens; but
the one Of greatest celebrity is the Beatrice
Cenci, with beautiful face and most lovely
expression.


Everybody has heard of the Carnival at
Rome, but it is difficult to form an adequate
idea without a personal view of it. Imagine
whole city run mad with folly, and you
may FL up the picture according to yOm
own fancy without any risk of exaggeration.
Compelled TO remain here, we went to the
Corso several days to see what was going
on. Something like fourth or fifth Of the
whole population crowded the streets, pla'
zss, balconies, and windows for nearly a
mile. The first day opened with grand
procession of magnificent cars, one of them
extremely gorgeous and very tall. This was
filed with Senators and other dignitaries.-
Then there was a troop of cavalry with
very 6ne horses; one, the largest animal l
ever saw, jet black and finely prOportiOned.
There we're people in masks and harlequin
dresses. The chief amusement consists in
throwing with little sticks pellets which ruin
the clothing of those who are exposed to
them, and render it necessary to have an
outer garment. One day there were none
Of these things thrown, but boquets and
bon-bons instead. We saw many beautiful
women, among them the handsome Princess
Marguerite, wife Of the heir apparent; both
husband and wife are very popular in Italy
But the great day was Thursday, when bed
lam seemed to be let loose. The crowd was