Year: 1875

introduced this fashion as a means O


protection from thieves, inquisitive


natives and other intruders. We no


tice, too, that the gates are as high al
the fences, and Of heavy wood, anc
are generally closed. This fact ex


plains why in every yard, close by
the gate, we see tiny japanese
house. Here lives the gateman, or as
he is more commonly called, the
"mom-ban." tits his duty to respond
to all calls at the gate, and to act as
errand boy for the family employing
him. The houses have tiled roofs;
and two-story dwellings, are excep.
tons, the high winds and earthquakes
which visit this country making them
undesirable. Looking down that
cross street you can see that noble
and energetic woman, Mrs. Pruyn, of
the Dutch Reform Mission. Now
we have left most Of the houses be-
hind and are riding along a windy
country road, with such beauty on
either side of us that we know not
which way to look, and get pain in
our necks by trying to see all, on
both sides. If you look to the left
you will see tiny fields of some green
plant, which we are told is the young
rice lately transplanted. The fields
are not separated by fences, but by
paths of dirt, thrown up little above
their own level. 1t is marvellous to
see these fields rising in terraces, one
above the other, to the very summit
of the lofty hill, which lies to our
lett In some Of the fields, however,
the rice is ready for cutting. 1t is a
light brown color, and the slender
stalks bend under the weight of grain.
Look to the right now, and you can
but exclaim over the beauty of the
valley, which lies a few feet below
our road. See those men working
with queer implements, which look
like very long, narrow hoes. They
are preparing the ground for plant
ing wheat. Yes, planting wheat, for
that is one of the curious ways they
have of doing things here in Japan.


How beautiful the sunshine is, and
how radiantly fresh and green every
leaf, and every blade of grass. In
our far away America the forests are
aflame with autumn's gorgeous col
ors; but here is as yet no hint of de-
cay or death. And we are told that
the change Of seasons is so gradual
as scarcely to be perceptible. But,
oh, look! Fusiyama, in the distance,
crowned with snow, and yelled in
light, fleccy folds of mist, lifts Itself
grandly at our right, and silently but
strongly rebukes me for having said
that "grand," as an adjective, could
be dispensed with in speaking of
Japan scenery. And SO we move on
amidst ever-changing and always
charming views. But what have we
here? A woman and child kneel-
ing at the roadside; as we approach
they touch their foreheads to the
earth, reach out their hands, and utter
piteous cries; the child especially is
very importunate, and he is an odd
looking specimen, certainly, with his
head shaven clean, except one tiny
tuft of hair Oh his crown; these are
beggars, members of their profession
are very seldom met here, mendicancy
being forbidden by the laws of the
land. Here we make slight turn,
and are at the top Of the hill which
overlooks the sea, but we have not
time to descant upon its beauty, for
our men are descending the hill,
which is very steep, and we tremble
to think what the consequences would
be if they should slip; but they are
sure-footed, and here we are safely at
the bottom. See at our left, pouring
down over the rocks, and foaming
and dashing through its narrow chan
mel, there plunges at our very feet, a
tiny waterfall, which has Its source
somewhere at the top Of this high
hill. Let us ascend, for our men are
stopping at the foot of flight of
steps, more than a hundred in num-
Der, which will lead us to the top. 1t
is weary work, this climbing! Yes,
but do you not know that if we ever
stand on any mounts of 'transfgura-
ton" we must first toll to reach their
SUBMITS! About midway in the as
cent we pause on sort of shelf or
landing in the hill, and here, situated
back from the steps, with the water
fall pouring down at one side, max
ing continuous music, and closely
sheltered by trees and shrubs on the
other, we find small temple. Fit
dwelling for some mountain goddess;
but the only divinity we discover is
an old priest, who, with his closely
shaven head and sensual face, sug-
gests character anything but refined
or pure. 1t seems to be popularity
of the Buddhist's religious system to
locate his temples, the smaller ones
especially, in just such secluded, al
most inaccessible, but picturesque
places, as this one occupies. Certain
ly there is in such a lovely, retired
spot much which stirs all ones deep
err nature. But we turn away with
sigh tor the deluded worshipers, who
assuredly can find but poor peace in
the blind idolitry which they come
here to practice. Up, up, till at last
we reach the last step, advance to the
brow of the hill, and stand speech
less with delight as we gaze at ma
ture's perfect loveliness. Spread out
before us is the summit bay, Missis-
sippi bay (dear familiar namely which
is an arm of Yeddo bay. How beau
tiful the blue waters are, stretching
far beyond our vision, and bearing
on their placid bosom innumerable
white-sailed fishing smacks.


At our left the slope curves and
shows us rugged brown cliffs, with
tiny fishing hamlets nesting bene nth
their long shadows; "but." say our
companions, "take a nearer view of
the same sort of village if you wish
to see how they really look" We
look down, and sure enough, just be-
low us, is a settlement of native fish
ermen! Low, thatched dwellings,,
and on each house-top there waves a