Year: 1873

From Popular Science Monthly.l


On the first evening of my visit, I
met, at the head of Biddles stair, the
guide to the cave of the Winds. He
was in the prime of manhood, large,
well-built, firm and pleasant in mouth
and eye. My interest in the scene
stirred up his, and made him communi-
cative. Turning to photograph, he
described, by reference to it, feat
which he had accomplished, some time
previously, and which had brought him
almost under the green water of the
Horseshoe fall. "Can you lead me
there tomorrow" | asked. He eyed
me inquiringly, weighing, perhaps, the
chances of man of light build and
with gray in his whiskers in such an
undertaking. II WISH" I added, "to
zee as much of the fall as can be seen,
and where you lead l will endeavor to
follow" His scrutiny relaxed into a
smile, and he said, Every well; L shall
be ready for you, tomorrow"


On the morrow, accordingly, | came.
In the hut Mt the head of Biddles stair
l stripped wholly, and redrc ssed accord
ing to instructions, drawing on two pairs
of wooden pantaloons, three wooden
jackets, two pairs of socks and a pair of
felt shoes. Even if wet, my guide
urged that the clothes would keep me
from being chilled, and he was right.
A suit and hood of yellow oil-cloth
covered all. Most laudable precautions
were taken by the young assistant of the
guide to keep the water out, but his
devices broke down Immediately when
severely tested.


We descended the stair ; the handle
of a pitchfork doing in my case the duty
of an alpenstock. At the bottom, my
guide inquired whether we should go
first to the cave of the Winds, or to the
Horseshoe, remarking that the latter
would try us most. l decided to get
the toughest done first, and he turned
to the left over the stones. They were
sharp and trying. The base of the first
portion of the cataract is covered with
huge powders, obviously the ruins of
the limestone ledge above. The water
does not distribute itself uniformly
among these, but seeks for itself chan
nels through which it pours torrentially.
We passed some of these with wetted
feet, but without difficulty. At length
we came to the side of more formid-
able current. My guide walked along
the edge until he reached its least tur-
bulent portion. Hating, he said, "This
is our greatest difficulty; if we can
cross here, we shall get far toward the
Horseshoe"


We waded IN. 1t evidently required
all his strength to steady him. The
water rose above his loins, and it foamed
still higher. He had to search for foot
ing amid unseen powders, against which
the torrents rose violently. He strug-
gled and swayed, but he struggled sue
cessfully, and finally reached the shall
lower water at the other side. Stretch
ing out his arm, he said to me, "Now,
come on" I looked down the torrent
as it rushed to the river below, which
was seething with the tumult of the
cataract. De Saussure recommended
the inspection of Alpine dangers with
the view of making them familiar to the
eye before they are encountered and it
is n wholesome custom, in places of
difficulty, to put the possibility of an
accident clearly before the mind, and to
decide beforehand what ought to be
done should the accident occur. Thus
wound up in the present instance, l
entered the water. Even where it was
not more than knee-deep its power was
manifest. AS it rose around me, /
sought to split the torrent by presenting
side to it; but the insecurity of the
footing enabled it to grasp the loins,
twist me fairly round, and bring its i'm
petus to bear upon my back. Farther
struggle was impossible; and feeling
my balance hopelessly gone, turned,
flung myself toward the bank l had just
Quilted, and was instantly swept into
shallower water.


The oil.cloth covering was great in.
cumbrance it had been made for O
much stouter man, and, standing up.
right after my submersion, my legs oc-
cupied the centres of two bags Of water.
NV guide exhorted me to try again.
Prudence was at my elbow, whispering
dissuasion; but, taking everything into
account, it appeared more immoral to
retreat than to proceed. Instructed by