Year: 1876


at having been able pass pleasant hours with
real friend of science, who is at the time an ex
cellcnt administrator and who bids fair to accomplish
at Touggourt, making il kind OF trial garden Tor
the Oued Rhir, what Commandant Crouzet so success
fully carried out at Biskra.


After crossing the slippery channel OF tho ancient
river Igharghar, the wide marshy bed of which loses
itself not far from there in the ChOtt Mel Rhir, we
more entered the Chott among small sandy hills
In the evening camped plain with largo undu-
ations, covered with fine growth OF alfa, and where
numerous iocks of sheep and goats were grazing The
night had been very cold, the thermometer having
fallen to three degrees below (centigrade. We
got up shvering, but soon we got on the march
the sun rose and warmed with his rays In tho
afternoon drew the well called Br el Ferd
JAM the water OF which is very and has very
strong flavor of sulphur is unfortunately, the same
in all the low lands OF the 0ued Rhr and Of the Souf
where the Arabs take precautions against the sand
which is continually getting into the wells, mingled
with the of the 1ocks which come to quench
their thirst


Tho next day at O'Clock we entered the sea OF
sand in the middle OF which are sunk the GASES of
the SouL The sand hills rather the waves OF this
sea- already imposing in appearance From
ffteen twenty metres in height they succeed one
another without interruption, and as we were
obliged go around the greater portion of them our
march became slow and painful On mounting the
summit of ono very high sand hill we had before our
eyes the immense Of sand Fortunately the
weather magnificent, otherwise should have
had endure much stronger tempest than that which
overlook us before entering Touggourt.


Not being able to reach Ell Oued that evening,
halted Ouarmess the first Of the Souf night
fall Our camping preparations quickly drew around
ust he ulato Of no wi nj onc
sheik and we saw an old white bearded man running
toward u.s. who came to bid welcome and to offer
US the di6d Our stock of meat being out
gladly accepted tho offer In about an hour tho good
shck returned. followed by servants VINO carried two
enormous dishes of kous-kous.


The first sight of tho buried gardens OF the Souf
caused some surprise. These gardens are so many
deep trenches dug down till sheet of water is struck
into which the roots OF the palm trees strike leaving
visible only tho top of the tuft of leaves above the
chaky soil OF the valley which is covered with awhte
sand This system Of plantation besides saving the
trouble of watering which is question of life
and death in the Oued Rhr confers the still further
advantage of preserving the inhabitants from the
fevers which decmate the unfortunate Ruara people
of the Oued Rhrl and which engendered by the
stagnation of the waters in the lower lands OF the
oases. Although the summer heat is still greater here
than at Touggourt, where the thermometer rises to
the height of Gfty degrees centigrade 22 Fahr) in
the shade, endemic diseases totally unknown.
Aside from the question of salubrty, palm trees thus
planted in addition to requiring less care, tho
best positions yield excellent fruit as according to
the Arab proverb they have theIr feet in the water
and their heads in the fire."


The next day, 7th, we crossed at a rapid pace the
few heights which still separated from the Valley of
the sou, properly so called. Sometimes our feet,
which were as yet badly trained gullies and
we went down to our knees. Ever quiet and without
hurrying our camels turned round tho sand hills
without at any time strayng from tho proper drec-
ton stretching out their long necks to sezc as they
went along, some very rare mouthfus of alta Tow
ard nine O'Clock surprised by the appearances
of three horsemcn who gaoped toward us. They
dismounted and advanced to salute us. 1t the
Khalfa of Kouinin 81 Ali ben Ahmed, accompanied by
u shek and Souf merchant, settled at Constantine,
but on a visit his native district They informed
that they expected the evening before
and that diGa had been prepared for reception.
We accepted the invitation to breakfast which ten
dered us All the oasis turned See the French
travellers The children squalled and jostled each
other in order get better view OF
We marched along, escorted by big and little,
and went into the Khaliia's- house There after
several minutes spent in salaams with number OF
natives many of whom pushed their devotion to the
length Of kissing hanos, installed on tho
downy carpet of little hall Of very primitive archtec-
ture, opening side tho passage. All our
complimenters squat themselves down and proceed
contemplate while waiting for the repast, and,
while slipping tho kaoua, engaged in lively and
animated conversation with the soua merchant, who
spoke French pretty well Then the diTa was served


PIoUANr


For chemba (potage) had pure decocton OF pi-
mento boiled In don't know what kind OF bouilon,
containing strings of vermice and bits of unboiled
meat The first spoonful made make fearful
grmace Largeau resigned himself and swallowed
second. We looked at him with horror, and we be-
came heartbroken entirely when he told us we must
honor the dGd of host, above all when he did
the honor OF serving us himself We made n second
attempt, but it impossible continue had
tears my eyes, and declare frankly that my courage
failed me Say red the pimento that Largeau
was devouring, asked for drink Faucheux, trine
more calm, declared he would force himself to it, but
for all that let his spoon fall We talking OF feign
ing ndisposition the course appeared 1t
consisted of a made from macaroni called chak-
chauca bel macarouda, which just piquant the
potage In Short is the thing except that the
macaroni takes place of the vermiccL The groan-
ing recommended. Largcau, who kept dcvouring-
calls US to and fcrbds all manifestations OF feel
ing account of our host who more and more
devoted to and who, not understanding what was
the matter, might have his feelings wounded took
some excellent cakes Of pure wheat and allowed my
companions attack the mesfouf-kous- kous-prc-
pared with butter and honey. For dessert all
of one mind to the taste OF the dates watermeons,
oranges and confectionery IRON Constantine.


Toward the close Of the repast the Khalifa Of
the III oued, 81 Mohammed ben el Touati arrived.
More saaans and kaoua all round after which VIC de-
parted good order for the capital Of the souf where
We made entry an hour alter. AS at Kouinn, the
whole population camc out 10 accompany us as lar as
the gate OF the Kasbah, where the Khalifa lived, and
IN which he had rooms prepared for us When l say
''rooms" do not understand me TO mean even simple
comfort Four thick walls whtcwashed with lime.
into which the day peeped through small skyhght,
with carpet for furniture-there was our chamber.
where we rested while waiting to start direct TO Rha