Year: 1875




On st. Johns Eve, little before mid
night, 1 found myself in company with a
friend, on the wharf, at Lake POntchar-
train, whittier we had gone to witness the
annual public celebration of the fetish
rites of the Voudous. Though familiar
with everything connected with the Cres-
cent City, disgust had always kept from
me any desire to see this revolving
spectacle; but this year determined to
go there and place before your reader
true description of the barbaric cere-
monies practiced by the people whom the
military have thrice been used to keep in
power over the intelligence and virtue of
the community.


We reached the wharf a little before
midnight, and, after little trouble, sue
ceeded in finding morose old Spaniard,
who, for three times as much as the SER
vice was worth, consented to row us to
the spot selected by the VOudeu Queen
for her reception and ceremonies. Shortly
after embarkation our Charon guided his
frail craft into the sluggish waters of
Bayou st. John, and after rowing short
distance, made the shore, where he bade
us land, pointing at the same time to q
faint light glimmering in the distance.
Toward this we directed our steps, and
shortly the confused murmur of human
voices apprised us of our nearness to the
VoudOu camp. We proceeded some steps
nearer, finally taking up position by a
large cypress tree, whence we could see
all that went on without being seen. In
the pale rays of the moon the dark out
lines of large assemblage was visible,
gathered about small fire, cOnversing
in different tones. They were negroes of
all ages-women, children, and men.
Finally the noise was hushed and the as
sembled group assumed an attitude ofre-
spect. They made way for their Queen,
and short, black, old negress came upon
the scene followed by two assistants, one
of whom bore cauldron and the other
box.


The cauldron was placed over the dy-
ing embers, the Queen drew forth from
the folds of her gown q magic wand and
the crowd formed ring around her. Her
first act was to throw some substance on
the fire, the flames shot up with lurid
glare-now it wreathed in serpent coils,
now it darted upward in forked tongues
and then it gradually transformed itself





after certain amount of gibberish and
wild gesticulation from the Queen, the
box was opened, and frogs, lizards, snakes,
dog liver, and beefheartsw were drawn forth
and thrown into the cauldron. Then
followed more gibberish and gesticula-
tion, when the congregation joined hands
and began the widest dance imaginable,
keeping it uptntil the men and women
sank to the ground from exhaustion.
This dance was diversified with every
species of indecent and vulgar gesture
and exposure. 1t was living expression
of all that is low and uncivilized. Many
of the women and not few men lost parts
of their dress in the wild contortions of
the dance, and one or two of the dancers
were perfectly nude. At the conclusion
of the dance an intermission in the cere-
monies was announced. The dancers
then dispersed, and an orgie of the most
barbarous and revolving character fol-
lowed. Livingstone never witnessed
anything worse in the heart of savage
Africa. No imagination can paint the
scene. Self-respect drove us from the
spot. We sought our bark, and as the
morning approached we found ourselves
once more in the city.