Year: 1873




listen by the water side to the song ofnnumerable
birds, and the giant rocks lie sleeping on their
couches OF shadow, with the goat and the chamois
watching wistfully over their slumber from mac
cessible sleeps. Tan poplars, ranged In rows
along the road like guards, salute the command
ing airs; stout mowers cut the clover, ana the
sweet voice OF children is heard prattling round
the vine clad windows OF the cotter's home But
the heat is positively stining, till at last, when
very high up the mountain, at turn OF the road,
we heard q rustic OF leaves and felt the cool
breezes from


THE LAKES OF LAMURE


All this was very fine for people who could enjoy
1t from seat in a wel-hung carriage. But far be-
low us were the priests and pilgrims, whose horses
had foundered and whose crazy vehicles had
tumbled TO pieces still sutrocating in the hot dust,
and some Of them were forty hours going the jour-
ney which we had done in five.


Still, though the way was steep and the way was
long, the pilgrims lightened 1t as only French
people could nave done. BY the waysde, as they
halted under hedges or wherever they could find
shade for repose, and at every hamlet where they
stopped to drink, they did not grumble at the
weather or their troubles, but they sung and gos-
siped. One party Of Alsatans had even composed
q chorus for themselves, which they carolled to the
tune Of lively Jig.





Priez pour nous.


NOtre cSpcrance.


Venez, sauvez nous.


Bis with the whole strength of the company.


All venez, sauvez nous.


These worthy creatures were always singing,
whatever became Of them, and doing their best to
enjoy their outing, and they Dabbled round the
cool laKes and batned their feet and doused each
other playfuy, while the carp leaped to the August
ny and the pike lay waiting in the weeds, terror
to small fry, much resembling an attorney. We
passed group after group of them sportively
waiting their deliverance from blacksmith and
wheelwright. Even the breezes seemed to jest
with them and to Join in the chorus OF their
tubilant hymns l had really no idea that sacred
music could be made so jolly till heard these
French pilgrims trying their active tongues at 1t.
One pilgrim. who had been an actor. and had
brought no provisions with him, dined at Lamure
in the house OF rogulsh innkeeper, and was
pressingly requested TO pay five francs in conse-
quence. The scene between them was very funny.
The actor treated the innkeeper, who seemed
parsonage OF some local importance, from the
comic opera point of view, tapped him on his
rotund paunch and laughed him affably to scorn.
The innkeeper upon his part regarded the actor
from the town councillors point Of view, and
looked down at him as an idle sort Of vagabond,





amusing, neither being able to see himself
as the other saw him. 1 think the pilgrim
got the best OF the quarrel, for the last saw OF
the innkeeper was his plump person mobbed by
demonstrating pilgrims, who took part with the
actor-and indeed i've francs Is large sum for
hunk OF tough mutton and pint OF small wine.


THE WAY TO LA sALETTE
grew more and more picturesque after passing
Lamure. The lakes stretched one after the
other before US like fairy OF molten silver, and
here and there a solitary fsherman's bark might
be seen on them, like great thought standing out
visibly on the ocean OF time. The country became
more wild and the inhabitants fewer. We saw,
too, now and then, . heap OF stones surmounted
by rude cross, to mark the spot where muir
der had been done, and near by were
usually little chapels, where masses were
said for souls In purgatory. We came
upon grass-grown paths and cross-roads which
led nowhere bus up to the charcoal burners
hut amidst the hills. Rising up from the plains
like incense was the smell OF the harvest which had
come In its season, Notwithstanding the storm and
the wind and the frost but rather because Of them
and taking its mysterious way upon tall stilts or
posts was the telegraph, one OF


THE LATEST HARvEsTS OF HUMAN THOUGHT.
The air became very pure and light as we as
cended the hills towards Corps and disposed the
mind to call up sacred thoughts. Mountains are
the most ancient places OF this worlds worship,
and all creeds have sought them. There was lrst
Ararat, then Sinai, and that Mount OF Olives
where Christ was wont to pray and where He spoke
the only words In earthly language from which
nothing can be taken and to which nothing can be
added without injury to their meaning. "Biessed
on the mountain are the footsteps Of him who
bringeth glad tidingsn is passage In the Bible
which had possibly especial reference to the


SERMON ON THE MOUNT.


The priest, the bard and the warrior have ever
come from the mountain 1t was merchant or a
shepherd that first sought the plain. At every
half mile or so on our upward path were fountains,
which monks had taught to now for human uses.
The shepherds and cowboys brought their cattle
to drink there, and housewives washed their
household stun on slabs around. We gotinto


A CREAM DISTRICT


few miles from Lamure, and when we stopped
at cottage to breathe our horses l ate the first
fresh cheese made from sleeps milk l had tasted
since left the Island OF Mytelenc, In the Egean
Sea.


I noticed that the road up to Corps was very
good; but then the weather was fine, and 1t must
be In an awful state after rain. Pilgrims must
have been soaked, parboiled and fried by turns
within the last forty-eight hours Perhaps 1t was
good for them, the French having rather q fnical
and unnecessary horror Of getting wet.


find that my pilgrimage, performed under the
most favorable circumstances win take three days
in so far merely as the journey nom Grenoble to
La salette is concerned, and that my carriage will
cost 110f, which is the usual fare. II looks dear,
but 1t is really little more than franc mile, and
the jobmasters who usually let carriages do not
get rich. The price Of horseflesh has risen. The
pair Of scramblng ponies In front OF us cost soof,
or say Es2 each, fe4 the pair. 1t will take nearly
weeks work out Of them to do this journey. They
may get sprains or splinters or broken knees, and
one or them has had rafting fall upon hints.
Then three long days. work and days rest for o
man, the wear and tear Of carriage and harness,
horses meat, mans meat at famine prices, sta.
bling taxes and half dozen other items are all to
be considered.


IL was quite dark before we reached Corps, a
dirty mountain town, literally blocked like q