Year: 1871

Although in Havana, all the eXcesses Of
modern fashionable life are INDUCED in to
a great extent one has only TO travel TWEEN
ty OF thirty miles into the interior to find
the most primitive and simple domestic
customs The chief industry Of the western
end of the island is the cultivation Of sugar
cane and clumps Of low plantation houses,
from which rise the tall chimneys Of the
grinding mills, may he seen at intervals OF
two or three miles all over the country.


1t was our good fortune at one time to
spend q week at one OF these retired
plantations, and we look back to that visit
as to a dream Of some golden aye in land
flowing with milk and honey. We were
expected guests. and on leaving the train
we found voIante in waiting to convey us
three miles into the country to the planta,
ton buildings The road over which we
were obliged to pass was Of the very worst
description Indeed, il was no road at
all, but a winding track between rough
hedges Of cactus and yucca, with dry,
stubby cane fields on either side. There
had been recent heavy fall Of rain. and
except where the limestone rock formed a
solid bottom, the wheels of the vo!ante
sank up TO the hubs in red Cuban mud. and
the horses, foundering and stumbling in
their efforts to drag the carriage through
the mire, covered themselves and the vo-
lante with the sticky substance.


Half mile from the plantation build
ings was large gateway, gayly painted
in red and blue, which an odd negro, too
feeble for work, opened for US to pass
through.


On approaching the buildings the owner
of the estate stepped forward to meet us,
followed by a mute procession Of about a
dozen immense blood hounds, the faithful
and savage guardians Of every Cuban plan
tation. He was arge-built, well pre-
served man Of about sixty years, with a
pleasant countenance, and long white hair
and beard His family, both young and
old, stood around him on the bro al piazza,
waiting to greet the strangers with hearty
goodwill. We were introduced in turn to
each one, and then the dogs were called
up to be made acquainted with the new
comers. Eying US with much suspicion at
first, they gradually assumed less savage
aspect as their master brought them up to
US, pattng them affectionately on the
head and after shifting at our hands and
feet they walked slowly away, our friends
forever We were warned, however,
against running across the yard anywhere
in their sight, as in Cuba no one, except
a runaway negro, whom they are trained
to chase. ever goes faster than walk


The plantation residence was a large
one story building, with broad piazza
running round two sides, into which op-
ened all the rooms, the doors serving at
once to admit both light and air, there be-
ing no windows; it was consequently nee
essary to keep the doors always open, and
as the floors were on a level with the pi-
azza, there was free range for all the dogs
pigs, chickens, geese, and guinea-hens
through the entire house.


Our room was the iavorite resort of an
immense blue pig, who startled us from
delicious afternoon nap by snufing and
fumbling round under the bed We turn
ed him out, but it was no use; he would
come back; and although this was an ex-
tent of Cuban hospitality we could not
approve, we at last gave up in despair,
and allowed the pig free use of our room.