Year: 1871




Pools.


HONOLULU, FEBRUARY, 1871.


The former letter descriptive of tour Oh
the Island of Hawaii ended with the ascent
from out the pit of Kilauea, that crater in
which the central fires are continually bub-
bling up. The view from the perch Of the
Volcano House on the succeeding night was
more than usually grand. The molten lava
was leaping and surging in the lakes, and
seemed to have broken out in place which
few hours before we had trayersed. It was
with reluctance that we turned away the next
morning from spot presenting such sublime
wonders. Your correspondent in company
with gentleman residing in Hilo had plan
ned to make the return trip by circuitous
route which would enable us to view certain
spots Of interest, and to see some phases of
native life Our way was through Puma, one
of the districts into which the island is divi-
ded, lying on the northeastern side.


The first part of the ride showed many ef-
fects OF the tremendous powers that have
their seat in this spot Here and there occur
red vast assures in the earth. and holes where
great lava bubbles had been broken through.
The surface was covered with dense growth
of vegetation in which were prominent the
gigantic ferns eight feet or more in height
A very remarkable crater distant some seven
miles gave occasion to turn aside from the
main path. 1t is of oval shape, measuring
perhaps three quarters Of a mile in length.
All fiery action in it has long since ceased,
and until recently the bottom and sides were
covered with heavy growth of trees. But in
the great earthquake of 1868 one half of the
bottom suddenly fell out. 1t is as if line
had been drawn straight across its width and
while one portion remained undisturbed the
other part sank down hundreds of feet, carry
ing away the sides and leaving jagged sur
faces ofrock, the bottom there forming funnel
shaped pit into which none can look without
shudder. Perhaps nothing like it exists
elsewhere in the world. The contrast between
the two portions is wonderful sight Re-
turning from this side excursion to the
main path we rode for hours through an un-
inhabited country, amid thickets of guava
bushes and ohia trees, the latter bearing q red
juicy fruit very refreshing to the thirsty trav-
eler. The ruins of church give sad evidence
of the decline of population on the island.
In region where ten places of worship were
once found, there are now hardly as many
habitations.


A ride of fifteen miles over descending way,
in full view of the broad, blue sea, brings us
to the first ofcocoa nut groves which abound
in this district Several grass houses are
clustered beneath the shade of the trees, the
half clad inhabitants engaged, some in their
favorite occupation of squatting on the
ground, others lazily building a wall of loose
stones. Signs are the only medium of COM
munication at our command, but these suffice
to make known eur desire that Kanaka
should walk up one of the long, slender
trunks, and throw down some of the cluster
ing products. Young nuts are always chosen
for immediate use. These are not only
filled to repletion with sweet liquid, but the
thin coating of meat is soft and delicate. One
who has only known the tough, woody sub
stance of the mature nut has yet to learn
what an eatable cocoa-nut is.


A small payment looks to them munif-
cent reward for their hospitality, and with ex-
changes of the universal word of greeting
aloha, meaning Glove to you" we resume the
journey and soon reach the coast. This par
ticular part of the Hawaiian shore is famous
for the remarkable subsidence that took place
about two years ago. The whole island was
shaken to its centre, and the beach here sank
several feet, SO that the ocean now rolls over
what was formerly dry land, as is shown by
the trunks of trees standing out in the water.
This spot has also the scene of the great
tidal wave sixty feet high, that carried devas-
tation far inland.


On the coast that had witnessed these won-
derful and appalling events we found our
nights resting place in the thatched house of
a native He with his family vacated the en-
tire habitation, and being accustomed to re-
ceive occasional travellers, was prepared tc
furnish accommodations and food far superior
to what would ordinarily be found in natives
dwelling. There was reminder of our To-
cality by slight earth tremor in the early
evening.


The course of travel the next day was along
the margin of the ocean. In many places the
path ran over wide beds Of lava of the kind
called a-a. This is a very peculiar substance
of a black color and porous structure. In
some lava flows it is carried along upon the
surface of the fiery current and is left to cover
great tracts of country with huge blocks and
masses that by their confusion and roughness
present the very ideal of chaotic desolation.
Without prepared way neither man nor beast
could traverse such tract.


A somewhat novel scene, characteristic Of
native life was exhibited on the margin Of
little bay vessel lying of the shore had
just thrown from her deck, RATS Of lumber in
tended for new church. The leading na-
tives of the district had assembled to make .
"bee," and bring it ashore. There were men


a.