Year: 1876

THE RASPBERRY d "a sis4


When raspberries of one yeaTtor older are
to be set out it is best to plant them in the
fall or very early in the spring, because of
the prominent buds near the crown which
are to produce the canes for next years
fruiting. These buds start very early and
are easily broken off. The tips, on the con-
trary, and the young, green suckers of some
varieties should be set out in the plantation
in the spring. oa


Raspberries are usually put in rows six feet
wide and three feet apart or they may be
planted in hills five feet apart each way,
which allows cultivation with the horse i'm
both directions-in this method stakes are
set to each hill. Various devices have been
applied to support the canes in the rows, but
with proper treatment and pruning they
are not needed. 7iAa fls&


The new plantation should be well culti-
waited the first season, after which one or two
plowings each year will be found sufficient,
especially if the plants be mulched. The
suckers should be kept down by using a
sharp hoe, cutting them of just below the
surface as fast as they appear, except such
as may be needed for new plantations, and
those Of the ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS like the Belle
de Fontenay, which produce fruit on this
young wood. Mulchiag is very desirable to
preserve the moisture of the SOIL Amy coarse
material may be applied for this purpose.
In most soils coarse manure can be used to
advantage, as the raspberlyis gross feeder
and the so-called perpetuals or more correct
ly, autumnal-bearers are particlarly bene-
fitted by mannring,


The favorite support for raspberries is the
stake, standing beside the hill and project
ing about five feet above the ground To
this the five or six canes are tied closely
when trimmed in the spring. The advan-
tages claimed for this method are the snug
ness, allowing horse-cultivation, and the
compactness Of the group, which enables
the pickers to make their progress in har-
vesting the fruit.


Another plan is to set posts at intervals Of
thirty feet in the line of the row, and attach
strong wire to these about three feet above
ground


The trimming may be done in summer
and in early spring. The former consists in
simply pinching or cutting off the tops Of
the shoots that are rising to form the caues
for next year. These may be cut at two and
half or three and a half feet, according to
the strength of the plants. The object of
this is to induce the production of side
branches and thus to increase the produc-
tiveness of the canes. Summer-pruning in
another form may be done to advs ltage. by
removing the exhausted canes after the fruit
has been harvested; at the same time it is
well to thin the new canes when they are
too numerous. Winter-prnning may be
done late in the fall but on some accounts
it is better to delay it until after the break.
ing up of winter, but before the buds swell
in the spring. IF the plants have not been
summer-pruned, the old and dead wood
needs to be removed and the canes are
shortened to two, three, or four feet accord
ing to their strength. If the shoots were
pinched the previous simmer, 1t will be nee
| essary to remove the weaker branches and
| to shorten the stronger to spurs Of two to
SIX inches in length. l9 pf