Year: 1872

1t was during the spring of 18-,
1 had been at Rome during the Holy
Week, and taken a place in the dill
gence for Naples. There were two
routes-one by way of Terracina and
the other by the Via Latina, more in
land. The diligence, which made
the journey only twice week, fol-
lowed these routes alternately, so
that each road was traversed only


once in seven days. 1 chose the in
land route, and after long days
journey arrived at Ceprano, where


we halted for the night. The next


morning we started again very early,


and it was scarcely yet daylight when


we reached the Neapolitan frontier,


at short distance from the town.


There our passports were examined,


and to my great dismay 1 was in.


formed that mine was not en- regle.


1t was covered, indeed, with STAINS


and signatures, not one of which had


been procured without some cost
and trouble; but one "Uisa" yet
wanting, and that the all-important
one without which none could enter
the kingdom of Naples. l was
obliged, therefore,to alight, and send
my wretched passport back toRome,
my wretced self being doomed to re-
main under police surveillance at
Ceprano until the diligence should
bring it back to me on that day
week, at the soonest.


I took up my abode at the hotel
where 1 had passed the previous
night. and there I presently received
"a visit from the Capo di Poplizia,
who told me very acivilly that I must
present myself every morning and
evening at his bureau, but that l
might have liberty to circulate in
the neigborhood during the day. 1
grew so weary of this dull place that
after 1 had explored the immediate
vicinity of the town I began to ex-
tend my walks to a greater distance,
and as I always reported myself to
the police before night, I met with
no objection on their part.


One day, however, when l had
been as far as Alatri and was return
ing on foot, night overlook me. l
had lost my way, and could not tell
how far 1 might be from my destina-
tion. was very tired, and had a
heavy knapsack on my shoulders,
packed with stones and relics from
the ruins of the old Pelasgic fortress
which had been exploring, besides
a number Of old coins and lamp or
two which 1 had purchased there. 1
could discern no signs of any human
habitation, and the hills covered
with wood seemed to shut me in on
every side. 1 was beginning to
think seriously Of looking out for
some sheltered spot under a thicket
in which to pass the night, when the
welcome sound of a footstep behind
me fell upon my ears. Presently a
man dressed in the usual long shag-
gy coat Of shepherd over took me,
and hearing of my difficulty, offered
to conduct me to a house a short
distance from the road, where 1
might obtain a lodging; before we
reached the spot he told me that the
house in question was an inn and
that he was the landlord of it. He
had not much custom, he said, so he
employed himself in shepherding
during the day; but he could make
me comfortable, and give me good
supper also, better than 1 should
expect, to look at him; but he had
been in different circumstances once,
and had lived in service in good
families, and knew how things ought
to be, and what signore like myself
was used to.


The house to which he took me
seemed like it's owner to have seen
better days. It was a large, ramb-
ling place, and much dilapidated, but
was tolerably comfortable within;
and my landlord, after he had thrown
off his sheepskin coat, prepared me
a good and savory meal, and sat
down to look at and converse with
me while 1 ate it. Ibid not much like
the look of the fellow; but he seemed
anxious to be sociable, and told me
a great deal about his former life
when he was in the service, expect.
ing to receive similar condolences