Year: 1871

And also bear in mind, my friend,
| A generous nature worms


No secret from a brothers breast


So mind your own concerns.


2Niscellaneo,ts.


The Reforms Needed IL, WOneG2Is
Dress.


BY A. C. W.


|.


| Nothing indicates more strongly the difference
in the relative positions Of the two sexes at the
present day than the style of dress adopted by
each. Mans attire is simple, compact and dura-
BILE, fitted for labor and travel, and consistent
with all the requirements of health. That of
woman S is complicated, voluminous and bur-
densome, flimsy in texture, calculated 10 impede
the bodily movements in every part, and scarce
ly endurable save in state of indolent repose.


1t would appear that this marked difference in
their costumes has been gradually developed by
the circumstances of modern life The first gar
ments, made of the fig leaves of Eden, were prob
ably fashioned after one and the same pattern;
and now, in many Eastern nations, the full,
flowing, gorgeous vestments of the men are SINH
lar in appearance 10 those worn by the women.
We know that in Rome, citizens enveoped them
selves in the heavy folds of toga that swept the
floor alike lady's robe. When all fnllness of
material had been abandoned in masculine attire,
love of bright colors and of fnery still remain
ed and till within century delicate fabrics and
brilliant hues have been as dear to the hearts of
men as they still remain to those of the other sex.
The society of our colonial days had its coats of
scarlet velvet, with slashed sleeves lace collars
and embroidered cuffs, and gloried in rufied
shirt-frills, diamond knee-buckles, powdered wigs
and beribboned queues, as Copley's portraits will
attest.


Loat of mail for the battlefield an ample
toga for the Senate, were suited to a race that
spent life in waging wars and framing treaties.
Doublets of velvet and silken hose would do at a
time when established orders of gentlemen de-
voted themselves to the duties of the State, and
kept daintily aloof from all the sordid business
of life When trade and the mechanical arts
usurped the place formerly held by the excite
ments of war and galantries of courts, and drew
into their pursuits all classes both Sifh end poor,
tiis display of elegant Nn1 =
to be discarded. At present Romish priests,
Episcopal rectors and Judges of the Supreme
Court are the only men in our country who en-
case themselves in flowing draperies and mere
hint of gay coloring is allowed by the sombre
costume of modern days in the bit Of silk under
the chin.


Thus man has eliminated from his dress what
ever interferes with activity and ease, and for
this purpose has sacrificed almost every trace of
the picturesque, both in shape and color One
or two absurdites he retains, for he still clings
to the tall, il-ventated hat, and over the chest,
which in this climate needs especiel protection,
the thick broadcloths Of coat, vest and overcoat
come to an untimely end in turned away collars,
and leave as their substitute nothing but tri-
angle of starched linen TO shield the lungs from
winter chlls. In all other respects his costume
is sensible adaptation to. the needs of his life
1t is loose allowing no ligatures nor compression
in any part it is composed of a few pieces,
which are easily adjusted /; and the weight of
them is made to depend entirely from the shoul-
ders. It's material is usually such as will bear
exposure to the changes of the weather; and for
six months, at least, the addition of hat is all
that is needed to complete an outdoor costume.
One plain suit for summer and one for winter
suffice for daily wear and these are donned day
after day, without an attempt at variety, save
when an unusual state of the temperature or the
demands of full-dress occasion, necessitate a
change.


Contrast this with the attire which the prevail
ing fashion assigns to woman. She needs usually |
two different suits day, and these must be con-
stanty varied to meet the nice exactions of social
life, and the slightest fluctuations of the weather
Though each suit is therefore worn but little, the
perishable nature of the fabrics and the constant
changes of the mode require that they should be
frequently replaced by new The articles which |
comprise gentleman's ordinary dress are about
eight in number; twenty pieces, at least, go to
the adornment of woman, and this, irrespective
of all ornaments and gewgaws for neck, arms
wrist and hair OF these pieces none are well
adapted for the purposes for which they were in
tended, so that woman is really encased in dis
comforts from the crown of her head to the sole
of her foot The head-covering, which in man S
costume answers for shade to the face as we'll as
for projection, is utterly useless as worn by wo-
man. When it assumes the form of bonnet
the service it performs is a mystery TO behoders
when hat, it sports, generally, mere apology
for a brim ; so that, in either case, parasol
must be added to furnish the necessary screen for
the eyes, Thus the work which hat accom-
plishes for man, is accomplished for woman only
by hat, parasol and the constant employment
of one arm, held upright in constrained posi-
ton.


Consider, then, the dressing.o of the hair. What
mothers daughter does not envy her brother his
cool close-cut hair, so quickly arranged as it is
so light and comfortable? Hers must be suffered
to attain lis full length, and be kept fastened
tightly upon her head and then, as if the weight
of that were not sufficient she must add to it as
many pounds of peasant girls tresses and ravel-
ed bark as she can afford to purchase, skewer





strings, ana bind them on securely, till the poor
head fairly aches with its load. 1t matters not
that the huge superstructure, resembling in shape
and size bushel basket, and dwarfng the face
beneath it to the appearance of a monkeys, is
burden for every woman, grievous to be borne
and an utter Disagreement, to unprejudiced eyes,
of the symmetry of the head. Fashion will
listen to no protests from her votares Let any
gentleman imagine his own head provided with
such an enormous attachment projecting behind
and then try to fancy what would be the state oil
his mind half an hour after he had consented to
adopt it.


Perhaps first of all in list of the discomforts
of dress should be mentioned the compression OF