Year: 1875

| AT each opening of French costumes
new designs are shown for -polonaises
These show most varied shapes, but
the prevalent idea among them is the
attempt 10 do away with elaborate
boutfant drapery. and make straight,
sinply shaped garments. The Margue.
rite seams are found in almost all backs
of polOnaises, and these seams are now
heightened more than ever by Begin
ming not merely in the shoulder seams,
but in the back of the neck where the
| shoulder seam joins the neck; this
makes three long seams down the mid.
! die of the back, aIId extending over the
tOurnure. The pelisse pOlOnalse is the
name given TO an undraped garment
just introduced by Worth. 1t resein-
bles a gentleman'S dOuble-breaSted
frock coat in shape, is open plainly
from the waist down the back, has
pocket flaps on the sides, and is fasten-
ed by three buttons in front. The
seams in the back are like those just
described rs beginning at the neck
where it meets the shoulder, and these
three seams are almost parallel down
the back, except that the outer ones
taper inward ut the waist. The hand
soonest model of this is of black brocade
silk stiff enough for a dOwager. This
silk has black satin leaves SO closely
brocided upon it that the repped
ground is almost concealed. The trim
mings are of the simplest kind, being
merely facings on the collar and cuffs
of cardinal red silk, while the slightest
line OF the cardinal appears down the
back and front where the garment falls
open ; the lower edge is merely hemm-
ed. The skirt to wear with this is plain
black grOs grain, with three very fine
knife plaitings, each four inches deep,
and set quite apart from each other,
instead of tapping in the present
fashion.


SIMPLE oVER.sKIRTs.


Among simple and stylish new over
skirts is good design that requires
but two breadths of the wide wool
goods now in vogue, yet is long enough
and full enough for taste. The front is
a wide, deep apron, with the fullness
necessary for length laid i'm two folds
high across the top. The back is a
three-cornered piece, pointed in sha wl
shape below, trimmed all around, and
lis iullness laid in easy plaits set on the
SlueS vi tue iEOut. luz H1luulc vi tuiS
triangular breadth would not be long
enough for the puffed loop at the top
of the back if it were sewed to the
belt, hence it is suspended by tape
that is concealed under the two double
box-plaits that its width requires.


BONNETS.


Felt hats are not chosen to match the
costumes with which they are worn,
but are trimmed with velvet and silk
of the color of the dress. Light creamy
white and wood-colored felts are
chosen, and the gloves are of the same
shade. This brightens up dark toll
cites, and permits the use of very dark
materials for trimming the hat. The
most distinguished looking bonnets are
very high in front, with close sides
and very full face trimmings. This
shape is chosen for black and dark col
ored velvet bOnnets for church, visiting
and receptions, and is not nearly as
large As the shapes used for second-best
hats and for general wear. For young
ladies are flat crowned fiaring brim
hats, that are worn just ON the back of
the head, encircling it like halo, and
showing nearly all the parting on top





shape Just mentioned. When made Oi
black Ivelvet they are given a more
youthful look by having faciDgs OF blue
or rose silk inside-either shlrred or
plain-and full trimming Of shell
loops, with sometimes touffe of roses,
or feather tip oddly posed high on
the left side. The best milliners are
using gilt and sill ser galloOns and orna-
ments little more freely than at the
first openings this season. These look
especially we'll with black velvet. Two
or three black ostrich tips are posed on
end in front, on one side, or low be-
hind and made to curl over as much AS
possible. Gros grain or twilled silk 10
broad deep folds is then laid around
the crown, coming up on Its sides, and
ending in single loop low behind.


NEW Wells.


New wells are quite long again, with
square corners, while the top is round
ed. hemmed and string run it to tie
it around the bonnet. They are MADE
of black Cnantilly net, without dots,
like fine tullie, and are finished with
an inch-wide hem that has row of
fine tiny gold beads at the top of the
hem for bonnets that have gilt trim
mings, while jet beads are used on
wells tor other bonnets. They measure
three quarters of yard in length when
finished. They are tied around the
bonnet, fastened around the neck toI
make them smooth across the face, just
as mourning wells are worn, and the
right-hand corner Is then thrown back |
over the shoulder Harper's Bazaar.