Year: 1875

Whatever lingering doubts might have been in the
minds OF the yotares Of fashion to the proper time
during the present month when the change from
mer TO fall toilets should be made, they have been en-
urey removed by the very undesirable advent of the
equinoctia storm Old Probabilities does not
generally appear in the role Of director OF
fashion. but in this instance he has certainly
proved himself one, as tho Arctic-like temper
ature which has prevailed in the city for the last
few days has had the OF fastening the fall open
ngs at all the leading houses The announcements as
may be seen in advertising columns are
numerous and varied enough to suit any taste
The details of modern lady's toilet, and, indeed,
their name is legion set forth on Broadway behind
plate glass windows with a profusion perfectly be-
wilderng Bonnets, dress materials, flowers feathers,
embroderies laccs and thousand other accessories of
that complex structure in which the female form d.
vine should be encased, according to Dame FASHIONS
latest order are exhibited thousands of inquring
and admring daughters of Eve, lately returned from
the mountain seaside spa The great thoroughfare
when may be termed the principal boast Of the
tropois is scene OF brlliancy and gayety this week.
The modistes have put their charming smiles,
and welcome back their customers in such a winning
manner that II would seem impossible for the latter
resist them Now there is group of fair around
sweet dress" ora


'DUcK OF A HAT"


and quite little contest as TO who shall
be tho fortunate purchaser Again, the gay
equipages which have been during the sum
mer months the delight of Newport, Saratoga
tho Branch, once more are on Broadway and the
avenue, and 'stop the way" at every noted mart Of
fashion.


Over twenty large establishments hold their exposi
tions OF fall fashions this week and the attractions
greater than during any previous season II is a graft
Tying feature OF this seasons fashions that very
noticeable absence OF extravaganza in dress be OBJ
| served Curtament and retrenchment in expense Of
toilets have been acquiesced in by the terrible Mrs
Grundy One excellent reform Of late years is the
tom Of adapting the dress to the deni Sdison There
longer the abrupt change from light summer 10
heavy winter toilets, but gradual transition in
cordance with the season This is, indeed, sensible
for, in climate like ours where IL is difficult TO calcu
late upon the changes OF the weather,


AN ADAPTABLE" TOILET Is
very important change in the toilet for the coming
season will be the revival of the long outside cloak as
an independent garment IL will replace the shor
jacket for street wear and will do away to some extent
with the suit Such change will be resisted by many
ladies' as it allows less margin for drapery and graceful
arrangement of tunics and overskrts. But, 10 Is
convenient and will suit any dress without requiring
the critical eye of artste to preside it, this
Independent garment will not be without us adherents
The changes in millinery very novel and becoming
although many of the favoritc shapes of the summer
are continued To-day and Thursday will be the prin
cipal opening days of the present season, and the
homes of the modistes will be radiant with toilets and
bellies.


INFLUENCE PARIS.


Opening day the world Of fashion, whether for spring
autumn, is very deceptive date. The modises in
dvidually discaim all connection with the establish
ment the way the question of-opening, and
say that as for themselves some fair partner is still in
Paris buying up Worth some other fashionable CO.
ossus and that the Custom House officials unhappy
mortals) are still at work the knotty problem OF
apprasng the thousand and articles that
sent from the gay capital of France And the modiste
still clings TO Paris with the tenacity that distinguished
her in the days OF the Empire although the cultivated
taste of American ladies in aught that pertains dress
refuses in many instances to receive certain oure styles
that tickeed Paris No true French lady, indeed,
would counenance them. Many OF the styles received
here from Paris copied from persons whose tastes
are not what ladies would care TO consult OF course
common sense has rarely any ailaton with fashion,
but such monstrous accepting thing that
from Paris without question is decidedly wrong.
Even the heather Chinee will acknowledge at times
that his idol is cheating him. and will put rope around
its neck and drag il ANONYMOUSLY through the gutter.
FASHION DICTAToRs


in Paris the daughters of Catherine of Medcis
One-Marguerite, Queen of Navarre-was very beau
tiful woman, and is said to haveAinvented cos
tune for every entertainment at which she appeared
The second daughter, Elizabeth, aterward wife OF Philip
ii. of Spain also distinguished for wearing
the same dress twice The court ladies made those
prncesses their models and thus French fashions
established.


Anne of Austria brought them to the highest pitch o.
extravaganza, and found many imtators in the other
| courts OF Europe.