Year: 1870

beaten earth, and generally uneven, and the
house contained but Q single chamber, hall Of
which was appropriated by the horses and mules
and goats and donkeys-the live stock wealth Of
the host Fleas, bugs ali! even lies infested it in
countless myriads. For days together l have
been ashamed to turn up my shirt sleeves, 80
Mortified have l been at the reckless way in which
these payfal vermin have battened Oh my iane-
cent 1esh and blood, and my sensations have been
IN every moment OF repose exactly what can
Imagine Scotch colly dog has to endure when
transplanted to some "md" climate where the
useful insecss'' most do flourish. And have
not even had the satisfaction which he SO madly
enjoys of burrowing with his nose in
MS animated fleece, and fierceiy biting
at the parasites that dstarb his peace.
Revenge has been placed, sometimes for
week at a time, out of my reach / have had
to smile patiently at the tormentng attentions of
these most Industrious works of the Creator
! grin and bear them. Gentle reader, come not
hither in the winter or early spring. when the in
clemency of even these mild Arabian skies force
you to seek the hospitable shelter Of the dwellings,
of the people of the country. Travel here only in
the summer, and bring your own tent; but even
that will not perfectly preserve you from the evils
have indicated. For, of course, you viii still
wish to pay visit Of ceremony now and then to
the house Of some minor paeha or mudeer. And In
pachas' houses, as in the cottages of the poorest
of their subjects, vermn the real lords Of the
land. No pacha could possibly so far forget him.
self as to close his door upon the hajees or pill
grins who roam the country, clad in rags and
infested with every breed Of vermin to be
| gathered from Mecca to Meshed Hasseiu. SO the
hajee stalks calmly into the big mans divan,
crosses his legs under him upon the cushions and
speedily sets all his neighboring fellow creatures
itching. Nor will good Nussulman kill even
these disagreeable creatures Of wise God.
No, if he detects one of them crawling
stealthily across his clothes to some
haven Of refuge inaccessible to human
fingers, he quietly takes up the invader and grace
fully blows him into the middle of the room. This
is no fable; have seen 1t done hundred times.
The only way for the traveller in Turkey to escape
these annoyances would be to place himself under
glass case and never emerge from it until he
has put mile Of sea between him and the Turk
ish shore. And that plan is open to 90 many OBJ
jections that no visitor hitherto or perhaps ever
will adopt it.


now WE PARED


To eat there is always plenty, though of a
somewhat rude and monotonous description.
Fowls, fowls, fowls, eternaly fowls, are the only
pr0curable variety of animal food and these fowls
are of a peculiarly fbrous, strngy, ancient and
indigestible species. No cooking, whether good
or bad, can convert them into enjoyable food.
The usual way is to boil them: bow to your fate
aud accept them in that form. You can get no
vegetables, but in their place W i'll be served with
rice or boiled wheat. The rice is generally good,
and before being placed on the table 10 saturated
Inn Unp fHonr rnVflxy ala
some goats milk cheese---a mild imitation OF the
well known Limburger-is boiled with the grain,
and impregnates IL with q flavor said to be
to IT. The boiled wheat Is called burgo,
and is really not unpalatable. For bread you will
get thin unteavcned cakes Of coarse -four, about
q foot in diameter, and In thickness varying
from sixteenth Of an inch to Q couple of inchas.
These are known over this part Ofthe East among
Europeans as slapjacks. Before being eaten they
N Is the
rule. preferred to eat them cold. Lastly there are
milk and eggs and singular preparation Of milk
curdied. 1 have tried several times to find out
how it is made, but with only partial success.
The invariable answer has been that little leben
ia thrown into the milk, which in few hours also
becomes leben. But how do you manage II you
have no lsbsn have asked. Such a thing has
never happened in the memory of man, and if it
ever ever does % happen leben will probably become
freshing, this would be pity. am told, how
ever, that it can be dried in the sun and that in
this form it may be preserved for several months.


PIPES AND COFFEE.


But have forgotten the two grand articles upon
which the people of this country subsist-pipes
and coffee. We Americans have yet to learn the
proper way to smoke tobacco. All, if some of
my untraveled readers could only for once taste
tho pleasures Of the nargheeah Nargheelahs are
indeed displayed in the tobacco stores of New
York in an apparently complete form; they have
the glass, in which the fresh water is placed the
long tube of rubber through which the smoke Is
drawn, the bowl in which the tobacco ought to
be burnt: But shudder at the thought of smok.
ing Virginia or Connecticut in sacred a means
OF enjoyment. Here, the only tobacco smoked
is Shraz-a peculiarly fragrant and light variety
| OF the weed grown in the south Of Persia. Be-
fore being placed in the bowl it Is carefully washed
and dried ana it is lighted not with match, not
with twist OF paper, not wth Jet of filthy gas,
bnt with glowing morsel of charcoal. Drawing
the smoke, by inhalation into the lungs, and eX-
pelling it without effort by the breath, there is
irritation Of the mouth or the throat, so smooth
and cool and soothing is the glorious vapor. Nor
is there afterwards any upleasant dryness or bad
taste in the mouth; the breath is indeed perfumed,
and ene might advance, after the indulgence, fear
lessly upon the lips OF the loveliest houri in the
universe. No one can say as much rs that for the
choicest Of Havanas, the most delicate Of ciga-
influence, the charm Of the nargheelah is beyond
the reach Of verbal description. One does, in.
deed, and in very fact dream dreams and see
visions with the magic tube lightly held between
| the lips fatigue, anxiety, care take to them
selves wings and fly away. Coffee, too-the
coffee one gets here cannot be too highly praised
1t is, of course, of the best quality, real Mocha
carr ed home generally by the pilgrims from
Mecca. The beans are roasted just at the time
| the beverage is to be made-that is to say, they
are quickly Drowned in thin copper pan over o
charcoal fire. They then crushed to powder
and the brown dust still warm and fragrant, il
thrown into the coffee pot--a small jug-shaped
copper utensil, holding about half pint The
water IT, at this critical moment quite boiling
and for perhaps half minute subsequently 8
allowed to remain on the fire, the operator giving
1t q shake every few moments 10 prevent the coffee
sinking to ths bottom. The liquid thus nanufac-
turcd is administered in tiny cups, holding q
couple ofamouthfuls. II is not drunk however,