Year: 1872




DOLLY WARDEN.


Every now and then whim seizes the pub
lie and takes possession of peoples senses,
thoug Oh why or wherefore, it would be hard to
say; but when once it has got fair hold, it
has to be humored until it is worn out or sup
planted by some other novelty. AT the pres
ent moment the name which predominates
everywhere, which is advertised in the papers,
posted on walls in bills in large block type,
stuck up in the windows of dry goods stores,
and heard in everybody's mouth, is that Of
Dolly Warden, the sprightly, coquettish he
roine of Dickens's historical novel, "Barnaby
Rudge" ,... En-. .....


But the novel was written thirty years ago,
and there seems to be no apparent reason why
the London locksmith's pretty daughter should
all Of a sudden start out into popularity grea-
ter than she enjoyed when she was first intro
duced to the world. She was then made the
subject Of many picture, and the celebrated
artist, Maclise, at the suggestion and under
the guidance of his friend, Dickens, painted
what may be called portrait of her, if there
can be such thing as the portrait of an imag-
mary character. 1t was, however, realiza-
tion on canvas ofthe conception of the author,
and it has given to her the bodily form and
the costume by which she will henceforth be
identified. ...... ,


Just as we form but one conception now of
Uncle Toby and the Widow Wadman, or Of
Sir Roger de Coverley and the Spectator, or
of Mr.. Pickwick and Sam Weller, in conse-
quence of our familiarity with the celebrated
pictures and illustrations in which they are
represented, so will our notion of Dolly Var
den be limited to that of the artist, combined
with the description which Dickens has given
her. In this she appears in CHERRY -colored"
hood and cloak and hat trimmed with cher
ry.colored ribbons, &c. But, graceful and
attractive as she is, there is nothing in COM
mon between her and the young ladies of the
present day, who have their own peculiar
grace and attractiveness. She lived and
fourished while our War of Independence was
going on, and in which her lover lost an arm.
To find any one who would resemble her, we
should have to 60 back to our greatgrand-
mothers time and herein is partial mystic
ry of the Dolly Warden Juror. Some one-in
all probability an enterprising dressmaker--
started the notion that one of the most stri-
king novelties in the way of costume for Ia
dies would be a revival of the antiquated
fowered chintz overskirts worn by English
ladies in the middle of the last century, and
it has been as successful hit as any that has
been made for some time.


Accordingly, the low-bodied dress, with
skirts we'll looped up, sleeves tight to the ell
bow, and then suddenly assuming the dimen-
sions ofsacks, leaving the portion O.! the arm
below the elbow bare, is to be the costume Of
the season, at home, it is to be hoped, for it
would scarcely do for walking or riding in,
without some modification. And patterns of
every hue and every variety Of sprig and fow-
er are displayed in the store windows, to the
no little anxiety of patertamilias, who begins
to wonder what sort of appearance bis women
folk are going to assume when they step forth
out of the hands of the modiste, with their
straw hats looped up on one side, a la Dolly,
and their lowered skirts looped up on both
sides, displaying the scarlet or brown under
garment, in which our great.grandmothers
delighted, and which they wore short, so as to
display the open clocks Of their red stockings,
and the shining silver buckles of their high
heeled shoes. And along with Dolly Warden
hats and dresses come Dolly Warden jewelry
and knick-knacks. 1t was an ingenious idea
to revive all this in the name of Dickens
popular heroine, but it might as we'll have
been done in the name of Clarissa Harlowe,
or Sophia Western, or Evaline, or Olivia
Primrose, or any other heroine of the period,
for they all dressed in the same costume as
Dolly Warden did. So far, indeed, as looped
skirts are concerned, they have been in vogue,
more or less, for century and a half, and at
this very time are fashionable in walking
dresses. The Dolly Warden overskirt is not
50 much novelty in itself; the attraction Of
it is to be found, one may suppose, in the flow
cred pattern of the material of which it is
made.


Our fashionable bellies have scarcely recov-
cred from the "Grecian bend" and the luxu-
rance Of their present Pompadour over-dresses
makes the transition to the tight bodice, low
bosom, and bare arms of Dolly Warden rather
sudden. Very young ladies will doubtless
expect to double their attractions-if such
thing be possible-in their Dolly Warden cos
tune. And ladies of more mature age, who
retain their youthful appearance, as many do,
may also appear to advantage in it-at home.


Philadelphia Ledger.


THE SCTENCE OE AnVERTTSTyG.