Year: 1875

loSS Attempting II, on tccOunt oil the very
rare state of The atmosphere on the top /;
but, on examining the records Of balloon
ascents, we found to our relief, that @ro-
nauts had been to even greater heights
without experiencing any very great diff
Guilty in breathing. Before starting for the
Himalayas we sent TO England for several
things which we conceived necessary for
our new undertaking among others, for a
small balloon. This last was owing TO a
| suggestion Of mine, as fancied II might,
| in some cases, prove useful. l also wrote
TO Grindelwald for two OF the best guides
at that time in Switzerland-Cachat and
Morel-onering them such liberal terms
that 1 felt sure they would agree TO come.
OF these two, l knew Cachat personally,
and had more than once had occasion TO sec
his skill at ice-work, so you may imagine
my annoyance when got letter frem him
saying that he could not so, as he was al
ready engaged for a distant expedition by
another monsieur; he thought he was an
American monsieur who had engaged him.
This was unfortunate; but Morel was able
TO come, and duly met us at Alexandria.
After a successful voyage and somewhat
unnteresting journey through the plains
of Northern India. we at last reached the
base of the great mountain chain contain
ing innumerabe vast forms, beside which
Mont Blanc would appear an insignificant
hillock. Well, here began our difficulties !;
we were obliged to organize large body
of natives to act as porters. 1t being quite
uncertain how many weeks, or even
months, we might be far removed from
human habitation, 1t was, of course, nee
essary TO bring a very large supply of pro-
visions, as well as tents, warm clothing,
and the implements which we hoped to
make use OF in the ascent. The best maps
Of that region which we bad been able to
procure in Bombay were so utterly inac-
curate that it was impossible TO depend on
them in the least. Having reached the
base Of Mount Everest itself, we found it
necessary 10 take a sort of rough survey
ourselves, and TO make number ofprelim-
mary excursions on the sides of the noun
tain. We established a camp about u, 900
feet above sea level, which from the vast
height of the plateau, was scarcely above
the base of the mountain itself. We found,
however, that the natives could not stand
greater amount of cold than that. Mo-
rel, Jack and l used to make expeditions
high up on the sides of the neighboring
mountains, armed with good glass, and
from thence try 70 see our best route in at
lacking Everest. Til about half the dis
tance to the top had been passed we saw
that we should have nothing but vast snow
fields, but then it would be necessary 10
pass along a terrible arrete-steep, and
bounded by frightful precipices. Afler
careful examination of this through the
glass, The Swiss guide pronounced il to be
very difficult, but not impossible. Be-
yond this there seemed to be perpendc-
ular ice e-wall but we knew how deceptive
such things are when looked at in the face,
especially at such distance, and trusted
TO being able TO cut our way up 1t. We
waited till there seemed to be prospect of
settled fine weather, and then, early one
morning, the three OF us started from our
camp, laden with provisions for several
days, blankets, and my precious balloon
in little silk case. In the highest spirits,
we ascended steadily, roped, of course,
over miles OF unbroken snow. Occasion
ally, one or the other OF us would disa?-
pear down hidden crevasse, but the 9th
ers soon pulled him out. When night
came on we scooped large hole in The
snow, and wrapped in our blankets, did
not feel much the worse for the intense
cold. For three days we were on this gi-
ant snow slope, and, during this part of the
ascent, experienced less difficulty than we
had expected. But on the fourth day we
came to the point where it was necessary
TO take 10 the terrible arrete which we had
observed previously with the glass. With
out exception, ii was the most terrific place
have ever found myself on. For seven
hours We had to advance, step by step,
along that fearful knife-like edge. per-
pendicular precipice, nearly four miles in
sheer depth, yawned on our right, and our
left was a snow slope so steep that single
slip must of necessity prove fatal. Fortu-
.nately, none of the party did slip; and, at
last, to our great relief, we got to the end
of the arrete, and found ourselves ON a
comparatively smooth plateau of frozen
snow. We pushed on rapidly, till we





way, aud so perpendicular that we could
not entertain the thought of cutting our
way up it. Under this we halted for the
night, though beginning to feel very much
the effects of the rare atmosphere and tho
intense cold. None of us were able TO
close an eye that night and at earliest dawn
l. got the apparatus ready for filling the
Balloon. In couple of hours all was pre-
pared; and as the little car would only
hold one, 1 volunteered TO be the first to
try it. A long rope was attached TO the
car, which the others let out as assembled.
As soon as the top of the ice-wall was
reached got ont fastened the rope secure
ly TO a huge block of ice, and the others,
without difficulty, pulled themselves up.
We left the rope there to assist our descent,
and pressed ON TO the summit. We were
now on a small level plateau, from the CEN
tire of which rose cone. This we could
see at a glance must be the top. 1t was
with great difficulty we could breathe, but
the excitement made us forget everything.
Tho three of us together rushed up the
cone, and In another moment a frantic
shout-frantic, though weak and quaver-
ing-announced that we had attained TO
the summit of Mount Everest-that we
stood on the highest spot in the world. 1
cannot describe to you the ecstasy OF the
moment, more than repaying the long
months of preparation, and toll, and weari-
ness which we had gone through. And
above all came the thought that now at
length my honor was secured-that there
was no danger of the American ever rival
ing the feat of to-day.


"But soon came other and nobler