Year: 1874

see his skill at ice work, 50 you may
imagine my annoyance when l re-
ceived letter from him, saying
that he could not go, rs he was al
ready engaged for a distant expedi-
ton by another monsieur; he
thought he was an American mon
sieur who had employed him. This
was unfortunate, but Morcl was
able to come, and duly met us at
Alexandria. After a successful
voyage and a somewhat aninterest-
ing journey through the plains Of
northern India, we at last reached
the base Of the great mountain
chains containing innumerable vast
forms, beside which Mount Blanc
would appear rs - hillock. Well,
here began our difficulties. We were
obliged to organize a large force
of natives to act as porters. 1t be-
ing quite uncertain how many weeks
or even months we might be far re-
moved from human habitation, it
was of course necessary to bring
very large supply of provisions, as
well as tents, warm clothing, and
the implements we had hoped to
make use OF in the ascent. The
best maps Of that region we had
been able to procure in Bombay
were SO utterly inaccurate that it
was impossible ao depend on them
in the least. Having reached the
base of Mount Everest itself, we
found it necessary to take sort Of
rough survey ourselves, and to
make a number OF preliminary ex-
cursions on the side of the noun
tain. We established camp about
$4,000 feet above sea level, wnich
from the vast height of the plateau,
was scarcely above the base Of the
mountain itself. We found, how
ever, that the natives could not
stand greater amount Of cold than
that. Morel, Jack and l, used to
make expeditions high up on the
sides Of the neighboring mountains,
armed with good glass, aud from
thence try to see our best route in
attacking Everest. Till about half
the distance to the top had been
passed, we saw we should have
nothing but vast snow fields, but
then it would be necessary to pass
along a terrible arrete-steep and
bounded by frightfnl precipices.
After a careful examination Of this
through the glass, the Swiss guide
pronounced it to be very difficult,
but not impossible. Beyond this
there seemed to be perpendicular
ice wall; but we knew how decep-
tive such things are when looking
them in the face, especially at snch
distance, and trusted to bc able
to cut our way up it. We waited
until there seemed to be a prospect
of settled weather, and then, early
one morning, the three of us started
from our camp, laden with provis-
ions for several days, blankets, and
my precious balloon in little silk
case. In the highest spirits we as
cended steadily, roped, Of course,
over miles of unbroken snow. Oc


casionally one or other of us would
disappear down a hidden crevasse,
but the others would soon pull him
out. When night came on we
scooped large hole in the snow
and, wrapped in our blankets, did
not tecl much the worse for the in.
tense cold. For three days we
were on this giant snow slope, and
during this part of the ascent cxpc


rienced less difficulty than we had
expected. But on the fourth day
we came to the point where 1t was
necessary to take to the terrible ar
retc which we had observed previ


onsly with the glass. Without ex


ception it was the most territi,
place l had ever found myself on
For seven hours we had to advance
step by step, along that fearful


knife-like edge. A perpendicular
precipice, nearly four miles in sheer
depth, yawned on our right, and OF
our left was snow slope so steeE
that a single slip must of necessity
prove fatal. Fortunately, none o


the party did slip; and at last, tt
our great relief, we got to the enc
Of the arrete, and found ourselve.
on comparatively smooth plateau
Of frozen snow. We pushed oil
rapidly till we came to an ice wall
directly barring our way, and 81
perpendicular that we could not en-
tertain the thought of cutting ou


way through it. Under this WI
halted for the night, though begin
ming to feel very much the effects


Of the rare atmosphere and the in
tense cold. None OF us were abl'
to close an eye that night, and a
the earliest dawn l got the appara
tus ready for filling the balloon. II
Il couple Of hours all was prepared


and as the little car would onl,
hold one, l volunteered to be tb'
first to try it. A long rope wa


attached to the car, which the 9th
ers let out rs ! assembled. AS sooI
as the top of the ice wall wa


reached, l got out and fastened tn
rope securely to huge block 0


ice, and the others, without Difficult
ty, pulled themselves up. We wer'
now on small, level plateau, from
the center Of which rose cone
This We could see at glance mus
be the top. 1t was with great diff
Guilty that we could breath, but tn
excitement made us forget every
thing. The three of us togethe


rushed up to the cone, and in an
other momen, frantic shout-fran
tic though weak and quavering-
announced that we had attained t
the summit of Mount Everest-tha
we stood on the highest spot il
the world. l cannot describe t
you the ecstacy of the moment
more than repaying for the lonl
months of preparation, and toll, ant
weariness which we had gon'
through. And above all came tn,
thought that now at length my hon
or ,voo cocuvoj-thot tharo xvas n.