Year: 1878




opened are necessary part of, but at the
same time one oil the most hopeless indications
OF our civilization. How can this tide be
stemmed? how can it be turned in any direc-
tiOn, and not absorb, penetrate, overwhelm
and destroy? The sources of the strength of
men are to be found more in what they have
got rid OF than what they have got that women
Happy beings! They have got rid of "opep.
lngS -of dressing In order TO he attractive or
IN IN order TO helghten the beauty of their eyes,
their hair, or their compleXiOns-they can get
up in the morning, put themselves into their
clothes, all right if there is no actual break,
lost hutton, or unlucky streak of new paint
and they can 60 out at night without the
expense of carriage, and with no preparation
save ten cents for a button hole bouquet for
nj the last moment, gloyeS-not too clean but
who careS?-are always TO be fiShed up by the
half dozen out of the depths of those fathom-
less pockets Yet l think men more invari-
ably look well in their good clothes than
women; tie worn, haggard face looks all the
more worn in light, bright attire, and how
often the glitter of the frame serves to show
the poverty of the picture: But what has
this to do with new fashions? Perhaps the
sight OF them renders one a little
morbid, knowing what they mean TO so many
Women. Tor the diminution of any part of
their elaboration and cOmpeXity is 4 deluSion
and snare. and the spirit of evil seems to b.
at work all the time TO undo or neutralise the
Scod mat has been done. Fortunately the
worst examples are not conta giOuS or ONLY Ia
avery limited extent. the masses do not see
them, and the cost removes them from the
region, even OF desire, If they did. Sill there
Is enough that is left to dill the lives of nine out
OF every ten women with anxiety labor and
harraSSing care How is the idol of yeSt erdav
made up OF Two skirts and basque, TO be
transformed into the idol of today which CON.
SlStS of a robe, cut all in one with no over
skirt and no basque? This is problem that
Euclid himself could not have solved. Then
%had Is Isl, TO become OF the frnges OF last year,
since SILK and ribbon loops have taken their
place? All women have not The genius of a
lady who made her lambrequinS and mantel
1Iapery out OF an old OverSkrt, lining the
lolhler material to make il heavy enough
trimmed them with the WOODEN fringe border
ing, and then took the money she would have
spent for them and put ii into new princesse


IL is not likely any one will ever know how
much planning went into those ornamental
appeEdaGeS; but imagine the brightness that
conceived and the industry that executed
such an idea exercised in some more profit
able htl': They would ensure success.


Another feature Of the new, fashion consists
OF lnnumerable pipingS of silk. such as used 10
be called ''milliner'S folds" they are a very
near, efectve and apparently simple trim
Inlng, but they require a correct eye to cut
Them, an infinite patience, and deftneSS i'm the
making, and putting on TO save them from be
ing dlSfguTlng rather than ornamental There
are also quantities of intnlteSimal rutes used
me knlie plated, and put on in the most be
Wldering manner, starting from no one
KNOWS where, going no one knows how and
ending no one knows when. COlOTS NAV be
physically described as symphonic. Certainly
they are mixed, very mixed, and graduate
from high tones to low tones, OF square of at
each other like pugiliStS in a fight Properly
blended they might be supposed to produce
han mOny, pitched at each other i'm ordinary
fashion they produce diScOrd beside which a
Chinese orchestra is melodiouS. The aSSocia-
ton OF several different cOiOrS together which
was new, and first introduced into laCps. and


ngerieS and their trimmings last year seems
to have taken the whole world of textile man.
ulaclure by storm. There is an epidemic of
mixed coIorS, because the association is that OF
oppGSlteS and strong contrasts. The paleSt
shade OF blue IS put with the deepest and
darkest shade OF red, and the iron shade of
green. Thin ribbed tissues, both light and
dark, are knOtted and dotted and Sprinkled
and Intersected with bright lines and rivuletS
OF many cOlOrS All these are more or less as
SCclated with plain materials and fabrics, but
the combination must be more than tasteful
IL must be artistic, to save it from incOngruity
In addition to the colorS, there are the bead
ornaments, which are used with laviShnesS
worthy OF the ChOctaWS or any other tribe of
WlldlndianS: and the lamirIced, or gold and sill
Veled Stuffs. gauzeS, grenadines, and the like.
which are used largely in the making and trim
ming OF summer bOnnetS and evening dresses


NOVELTY IN DESIGN.


The best designs of the season are plain and
the changes are in the interest of convenience
. and comfort The shape is we'll defined. but
there are fewer strings and less drapery to tie
back. The street garment is a long plain
pOlOnalSe, which faStenS upon the side and
admits OF no tournoure, unless it is a small





out to form demi-train. With short COS
tunes no such addition would be required
These polonaise are uniformly made of the
knotted or laminced fabrics, which have ac-
CURED an Unprecedented vogue. The first
include the bourette cloths, and are seen in an
endless variety OF design, black, brown. grey.
bronze or olive green, serving as the fOunda-
ton Tor brilliant mixture of color, which is
however, used in such infiniteSimal quanti-
lies as not TO prove startling. The trimmings
are pear, smoked or lrediScent, and double
plplngS OF silk in the dark foundation color
and lighter or brighter shade. Fringe. silk
OF WooIen IS not used at all upon street
aFtSSeS H ;S ile cosl l4meS being strictly composed
OF SIX and wool from the piece, with trim
m!ngs OF the silk or of the two fabrics united
kllt pleated skirts for short costumes are
sIeaiiS admired, and these are accompanied
py Jacket fastened, cutaway from the front
ana fastened with one button, leaving the
vest visible. The skirt is, of course, all wool.
and IS attached to yoke The vest, real or
simulated, is of silk, and the jacket piped
with silk and finished with fiat collar and
cuffs, made partly OF wholly of silk. Street
Jackets are not SO long as they were last fall,
and nearly all are cutaWay from the front or
fastened upon the side, and finished tailor
fashion, with stitching or binding, and buttons.
Bodies or waists are cut the natural length and
style for washing dresses, lawns, muslins.
linens and batiStes. The waSt-pleated or
shirred, has also come back into favor but is
than when worn several years ago. Ii is very
pretty, and suitable for ginghams, percales
ana cneNlOtS, and In TACT. Tor any OF the minor
summer materials except pigue. Sleeves seem
to have divided themselves up into ''lOngr and
short and ''elbOw." The latter which is
reserved for evening and dinner dresses i'm
winter coming to the front i'm summer and
being made to serve many uses on account of
hghtneSS and coOlneSS. This summer they
will be especially desirable for muslins lawns
and barage, because they afford an Opportu
nifty for the Introduction of long mttS, which
are speciality in both white and black lace,
Palmer washing and ironing dresses are made
IL ntr of ttrriaf cI~s
blouse waists, and sort of straight scarf over
skirt, gathered and finished with square ends
at the back, or princeSSe, killed round the
bottom, the front covered with short Straight
apron, drawn in at the back and tied with Rib.
bOnS. OverSkirtS, when used, consist of one
OF more ScaTfS crossed and draped upOn the
sides. Some new spring suits are cOmDoSed
of plain faille and striped silk and wool in an
alternate open and brOcaded pattern. the brnl
caded fgure being the same color as the faiJle
The striped material is practically used to com
pose the dress, which is in the princeSse StyIe
for there is nothing below it but fine shells and
narrow knife pleatingS of the faille which is
also used to edge in the same manner a round
mantelet with square ends In 'front.' In ad-
dlllon, the faille is used for pipings, for fiat
TelerS collar and cuffs, and also for bows.
win the short dress of cashmere, which is be-
coming great faVOrite, the round cOachmans
cape is admired.


NEW BONNETs.
Millinery is i'm reality making desperate