Year: 1877

shapes, and the drapery Is lost IN a nat XII
plating which forms the train and is attach
ed to the skirt several inches below the lin


of the long waist. Very graceful and varie


models of this description are made not only


in rich armure and damasked silk, but il


knapped cloth, fabric of silk and wool


which has damasked effect or rather look


like chenille honey -cOmbed upon damaske


silk ground Such dresses are trimme,


with darsy plaitings of plain faille in tn


ground color, or faille alternating and pipe,


with satin. and arranged in such away tha


while the figured fabric forms the body par


of the design, the trimming seems to com


plete it and not be merely extraneous or at
tached to it as a parasite With no use o.
purpose Of its own.


AUTUMN DESIGNS.


A fall style, not very new but of the sim
plest and prettiest, consists of demi- traineC
skirt and paletot in a modified Breton styl,
of plain dark. rich faille, trimmed with s
broad India galooh and shell-buttons. The
bodice is not made with the costume. but
enough silk accompanies it to complete the
dress in any style preferred. so that is really
more advantageous than il finished in some
arbitrary fashion. The costumes are made in
seal brown, the new shades of dark green,
and Russian gray. Navy blue has been 50
well worn that it is rather avoided in the
making up of new styles. A Paris COS
tune intended for fall wear, consists o. a
long paletot, reaching nearly to the bottom
Of an ordinary walking skirt of black silk.
In front piece is introduced in the Breton
style, but instead of small buttons it is out
| lined with broad bands of velvet which are
| carried round the bottom and form straps
across the front as far as the knee. Hand
some shoulder knots ornament the top of the
sleeves and passmenteric ornaments Of the
same description are repeated upon the
cuffs, the pockets and the upper front of
the garment Below it the trained skirt
shows the trimming of daisv plaitings at the
back, and narrow, upright rufles, divided
with pipings in front. These two parts
constitute the costume, no bodies being re-
quired, excepting close vest, which should
be attached to the skirt.


DRESS TRIMMINGS.


The new trimmings are varied and very
costly In addition to the heavy braids and
embroidered galloons, which have now taken
a secondary place, We have rich gimps and
passmenteries, arranged as plaques, military
shoulder knots, ornamental! fastenings and
the like. The passmenteri headings are,
many of them, three and four inches in
depth, and are studded with drop buttons,
like acorns. The manner of making is per-
feet. reproducing the natural fruit, or with
little tassels knotted and crimped. so as to
impart peculiarly feathery and graceful
appearance to the garment, which is enrich
ed by them.


French Jet trimmings, composed of silk,
crimped, and mixed with small solar de
iuns,' amber. bronze and blue jet beads. in
deep fringes, and round tassels held bv n
sort of gimp cord have made theiral pearance
in large quantities, and are used in profus-
ion upon dinner dresses of black pile.
and black Sicillian and black Antwerp silk
cloaks.


Feather trimmings are much less observa-
bic than for the two past years; but the
crimped silk inching is a very graceful and
wanderfuliy effective substitute for feather
trimmings, and enjoys greater prestige, is
made more full anu is in some instances
elaborated and beautifed by line of eI-
quisite embroidery, hand made, and run
through the middle, upon the upper service
of the silk, so that it is enwrought with
fabric Of which the ruching is composed.


A new kind of plush, thinner than the or
dinary plush, with dark ground which
closely initiates fur but into the surface of
which white hairs are thickly introduced, is
used as trimming for fine soft camel's hair,
with which it harmonizes admirably The
material and trimming as combined in this
way makes very stylish indoor dresses as
well as light, warm and graceful costumes
exactly adapted to later fall wear with a felt
hat and the long, undressed kid gloves in
lighter tint of the color of the cloth of which
the costume Is composed. The new gallOons
for dress trimmings have black or dark
grounds embroidered in India or Persian pat
terms and are most used for fine all wool mate
rials than for silk, although they trim silk
very handsomely when it is required only a.
wrapper or for indoor purposes. There are
galloons Of cheaper quality lin which the
pattern is executed in single color on a
dark ground, but these do not come under
the category Of fashion.


BUTTONS.


Buttons vary as much in size a. in the
material of which they are composed. Small,
round buttons of silk to match the costume
or its trimming are among the best Of the
unObtrusive styles hut every variety of
darkly shaded or irridescent pearl, dark tor
toise she'll and ebony, ivory and grained
wood are pressed into the service in order to
satisfy the demands of the modern necessity
for matching every detail in the design and
material or the trimming of the dress.


THE NEW HAT AND THE NEW BONNET.


The specially new AMI distinctive styles OF
the present season consist of a hat without a
brm and bonnet which might be called |
the Princesse. for it is cut all in one, with
no dividing line between crown and brim
and is simply charming apctheosis oi a
nuns bonnet, made in satin or velvet, lined
with delicate white satin or plush, and trim
med without lace, feathers or flowers. The |
back of the bonnet, OF what constitutes an
upright crown, is cut open, and very mar
row space shows the white lining, while the |
simple ornament pass 1t across, but there Is
no trimming upon the inside, neither hand |
nor ruching, and the fastening is effected |
with narrow double satin ribbon, tied in a
bow at the side under the left ear. Beside |
this superb bit OF monastic splendor and sew
Gritty all other millinery creations retire in
to the background.


There are the usual straight crowns and
soft crowns. and high crowns, and no crowns
at all. There are hrims turned up and
hrims turned down, and hrms which are !
wing-shaped and hrlms which lie cluse To
the head, but the manner OF them Is too
mixed and too multiiarIous to admit of
special description, the variations and the
differences of 50 minute a character as to
elude perception, much more chdracteri
zation.


The general demand is, that the bonnet
shall either match the costume or be made
in light materials. for evening and reception