Year: 1874

lence Of her behavior. once only did we feel any
alarm. The screw stopped, and we knew that the
little craft was hove TO. Our captain Is splendid
specimen 4 true seaman (beSides being Jolly
good fellow) and when asked what 1t all meant,
replied, II thought I'd try her bit that way and
see how she'd behave herscifn And right well did
she behave herself until when, the storm aoating
little, we were again under way and were in due
time under shelter OF the Westmanna Islands, or, In
the language OF the country, Westman0ern. or all
the dark, gloomy and forbidding spots that ever
greeted the eve OF storm. tossed traveller who ex-
pected shelter this surely was the worst Pile OF
rocks to stand for that name that ever was seen.
1t was dismal greeting from Iceland, that first
sight we had OF 1t. The Islands rose in great black
perpendicular walls. right up ron the angry sea.
and stood out against the driving clouds with an
air OF terrible defiance. AS we came nearer
we could hear the waves laundering into the
caverns and dashng about the outlying pinnacles
of lava, when they were broken in their wild on
ward rush. leaving only their deep wall TO tell US OF
their wasted strength. We got into comparatively
smooth water beneath the cliffs OF the largest
island OF the group, bat we could not make har-
Dor. II was just midnight and there was twilight
in the SKY, but no sign Of living thing could we
discern. We knew there was harDor and a little
town there, and We passed between Two great
rocky walls, which seemed to be the entrance to
some


NORTHERN INFERNO.


could but recall the common expression so often
quoted In the north, "God created the world, but
the aevli made Iceland" We fred rockets ana
blue lights but no answer coming, and being afraid
to venture into harbor without lighthouse or
pilot, we stood away on our course once more
through the driving storm. In the morn
ing air 1t cleared little, and we
caught sight OF Reikianes, 'the smoky
cape" and its outlying, pinnacled rocks,
rough in form. Rounding this we steamed away
before the swelling seas, and, to our great satsfac
ton, got into smother water in the splendid
mountain glrdled Fax Fiord, and, rounding TO
behind green little isle, we were soon az anchor
In the harbor OF ReiKiaviK, where we are lyiag
now, and wnerc propose to write you what can
OF this land OF the Cd Morse Saga. This volcanic
island OF the Arctic Sea Is around which cluster
so many CHERISHED traditions, from ws.ch sprung
all that is valuable OF early Morse literature and
law and IRON which came those sturdy mariners
oi the sea who were the first white men to land on
the shores OF America.


DESCRIPTION OF THE lcELASDrc CAPITAL


To begin At the beginning-the harbor In not
particularly well sheltered and the town OF Reisi.
aycK not unsighty: IN fact. 1t is great deal bet
ter LOOKING than travellers generally givc IL credit
Tor. nave been ashore TO deliver my letters and
can upon the Governor and other officials ara
have been altogether very agreeapy disap.
pointed IN the appearance OF the place, TOR
mad nad all sorts OF ludicrors descr,p-
tons by ali sorts OF travellers and was pre-.
pared to see uor Ia ono book it Is so
distinctly stated sheep Drowsing upon