Year: 1878

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FRESH FASHIONS FOR FALL.


THE COMING STYLES, AS DECREED BY PARIS.


New YORK, September 14.-:So far as one
can Judge from recent importstions by whole.
sale houses the styles this fall are to have q
wide scope. Long dresses and short dresses,
overskirts and princesse dresses, polonaises
and basques, all will be worn, and one will
scarcely be more fashionable than the other.
As rule, street dresses will be short-those
for afternoon and evening wear, at home and
for unceremonous calls, demi.train--while
evening dresses will still, serpent-like, trail in
narrow length yard or 80 on the floor. The
French dressmakers gil in this train with a
mass Of plated muslin stif1y starched, which
holds it out like hoop, and answers every
purpose of crinoline. Apropos Of crinoline,
the usual cry is raised this season, also, that
hoops are again to be worn. But the long
wasted, close clinging dresses which come to
US from Paris-dresses which scarcely admit
of sufficient underclothing-do not look much
like crinoline. As gentlemen are not sup.
posed to read these letters, / suppose may
gossipa little about these undergarmeDts with
out betraying any secrets of the feminine toi-
let. The chemioon then is pretty widely
adopted by fashionable women. This, as
have heretofore said, is chemise and drawers
combined, trimmed around the neck and
sleeves like the former, which it copies to the
waist; thence it divides into the trousers.
Over this is worn the corset, very long on the
hips. and over the corset is the corset cover,
fitting without wrinkle, and to it are but
toned the skirts worn under the dress. Thus
it will be seen that the amount Of clothing
worn about the waist end hips is reduced to as
small quantity as possible, and the fit of the
princesse robe or long cuirass is unmarried by
fold or wrinkle. The undergarments Of fan
mel, worn next to the skin, fit like a glove also,
and add but little to the size Of the wearer.
Still it is whispered that when these are worn,
some of our bellies dispense with the chemi'
loon above them.


The plated dress will be worn chiefly by
misses and young ladies. Matrons will adopt
instead, the short round skirt and long over
skirt with cuirass basque. The favorite over.
skirt will be the lavandere or washerwoman
skirt turned up in front from four to twelve
or fifteen inches. The ordinary round skirt
is easily converted into this tunic, by turning
up the bottom of the three front breadths, and
trimming to suit the altered position. When
the material has right side and wrong side
this turned up piece must of necessity be set
on like facing. The cutaway coat and vest
is to be a favorite fancy, and very many beau
tiful materials come for ladies vests, valours,
or uncut velvet, corduroy, and new material
in which the stri pes are so woven that they
appear as though plated or braided and then
sown on the foundation. Cloth will be much
used for these suits when the weather shall be
colder, and this, think, will render plaits to
the waist less fashionable, the cloth being too
heavy to plait gracefully over the hips. There
is already in style for misses form of this
dress, which I venture to predict will be much
worn. This has long cuirass or princesse
waist, for they are the same, extending we'll
over the hips, and to this kilt plating is at.
tached, a narrow scarf, not more than half
yard in width, at most, hiding the joint and
being tied in a knot and ends behind. The
cutaway coat may be worn with this or not as
preferred, and the dress may, if you choose,
have plastron, which under the coat, will
appear as vest. The kilt plaits are hot
pressed, and are held in place by tapes sewn
Underneath. They are not lined, and require
three times the width of the skirt, since to
hang gracefully they must be full. The jack.
ct and vest are not meant for stout people.
These had best confne themselves to the man.
tilla, or to the alf6ttiDg long sack which
will be worn again this season.


NEW MATERIALS AND CoLORs.


The new bourettes differ from those with
which we are familiar, in having the surface
covered with loops like Brussels carpet, in
stead of being shagged. The richer fabrics
will be made with the curtain overskirt de.
scribed in my last, and trimmed with fringe
in all the colors of the bourette. The cloth,
of which I have just spoken as like ly to be
popular for suits, and known to merchants as
coatngs, is also novelty. 1t is not the gray,
brown, blue or dark green ladies' cloth, with
which we are familiar, but is heavier, with
loosely woven, thick threads in mixture of
several rich dark colors, so blended that at
little distance they appear as only one. Stripes
and plaids both appear in large quantities,
among new importations, and everything iu-
dicates that they will be much worn. Worth
uses them to trim black and other dark colors
in cashmere, and also in silk. They are small
plaids, irregular bars and broken checks
not the broad Scotch tarltan of the clans.
Conservative ladies of quiet taste will still
cling to the useful cashmeres and debeges
of solid, dark colors, which are standard goods
and which form part Of every merchants
stock.


Satin and moire antique will be fashiona.
BILE, especially for use in combination with
other rich materials. For combination suits,
it is easy to see, are to lose none of their pop
ularity, and suits all of one fabric, unless they
are black will be the exception. Black also,
black silks especially, will be trimmed with
colors, but such dresses are suitable only for
the house, and for the evening, so ladies' who
cannot afford several black silks, had best
trim the new one with the same color-that
is, with black, which the critics will tell one
is no color at all.


India cashmeres, soft and clinging, grow in
popularity with those who can afford them,
but they are expensive in comparison with
French cashmeres, and with the American
manufactures Indeed, our American facto-
ries copy foreign wares successfully at half
the price. and before winter we shall probably
have India cashmeres woven at home, which
only an expert will be able to distinguish from
the imported article The new color, mean
the coming color which is to blend with every
thing and be worn by everybody, is Theirs
red, dark, rich garnet color, deeper than
cardinal This will form one of the tints in
bourettes and in plaids, will illuminate our
bounets and appear in bows and in dress trim
mipgs. SULPHUR is to be The favorite shade