Year: 1874

and quivered as the heavy hammer-blows struck
her. Wedged in our narrow berths, we watched the
wild gymnastics Of everything that could toss, or
saw, through the buried ports, the early daylight
strike through the green water. The tightness and
buoyancy of the little vessel gave us faith in her
seaworhlness and as hour after hour passed by and
we steadily made our seven knots keeping well of
the iron coast, which was dimly visible through
driving scud we congratulated the captain on his
choice Of the two evils. The barometer was still
sinking, the gale still increased; bnt by ii o'clock
we were off the sharp corner Of Rejkian2s t. smoky
Nose" the extreme southwestern corner Of Iceland,
and the broad Faxa Fiord opened to the north.
We had still II miles to the other corner Of the
long peninsula beyond which our course would
be eastward toward Rejkavik, and under the
lee of the land. The sea already much
less violent the shone out athwart the drifting
clouds and both waves and shore were covered with
hocks of arctic BIRDS nearly all varieties of which
saw for the first time. The handsome solan goose
slept upon the bllows with its head under its wing,
and, when wakened by the steamers approach
sometimes, in fact, almost touched by its side
tapped off over the water, screaming in terror Lt-
tie terms and puins darted hither and thther; gray
eiderduck flew to and from their nests on the rocks,
and tine snowy sea-guls circled in all directions.
There was wonderful profusion and animation OF
bird-ife, and the dark cliffs and foam -girded sker-
res seemed less bleak and forbdding, after seeing
how these creatures loved them.


In HARBoR-5 D. m.-After rounding the point Of
Utskalar. we lost more than half the force of the
sea. Outside, the gale ragged as furously as ever;
but as advanced further into the ford the spray
walls of the breakers sank lower, lines Of shore
gimmered green in the sun. and the outlines Of
huge mountains detached themselves from the mist.
to he fhwo Hara low
looking house to be seen then the village and
church Bressastadr, on the right. and finally the
nes nOse) or headand Of Rejkiavlk harbor directly
ahead. A beacon. the point. served to pilot us.
Over the low shore the masts Of four five men-of-
war at anchor showed the position of the harbOr,
and some of the houses of the little Icelandc capital
began to loom up behind them. The inland noun
tans, coming out more clearly, suggested a colder
and more barren Scotland all the features of tho
scenery were large broad, and sublime in their very
simplicity.


Passing between two islands we came into port.
One German two French, one Swedish, one Nor
wegian and one Danish frigate lay at anchor. with
twenty smaller sailing craft nearer shore. The town
stretched along two low hills and the hollow be-
lween them and surprised us by its bright substan-
tial appearance. We were presently hailed by a
boat, which brought to us ruddy gentleman, who
came on board, introduced himself as a member Of
the Committee of Arrangement, and proposed TO
assign US proper anchorage. But no sooner bad
our anchor fallen than we were boarded by an
officer from the Danish frigate who stated that We
would be in the Kings way, on His Majesty's ar
rival and must move to the opposite side Of tho
harbOr. The Icelandic Committeeman protested
against this Danish interference; our captain re-
mained neutral and we kept away from the dispute.
1t was some time before the matter was settled.
Denmark conquered, Iceland yielded and went
away. we hove anchor and moved TO a new position,
and here we are, at last free to set foot ashore!