Year: 1874

mounds. out then the horse was small; there was
no way OF attaching 1t TO the saddle even were ne
strong enough to carry me with this addltlona
weight over the bad mountain roads we would
have 10 pass over.


..But what are you going to do with my bag
gager asked


"Ohl win carry 1t on my back" replied the
owner OF the horse.


"what! All the way to Estella, nearly two days
marchG''


Isl, sehor."


looked at him, and surveyed him from head to
foot He was not a large man, but he had a tough.
wiry, solid look and quiet, resoute air, so that
after moments consideration agreed to let him
try 1t, and bargain was struck BY four O'Clock
In the afternoon we we're on. The way at FIRST
led through little plain, which IN spite OF the
yellow sandy rocky soil must be very productive
Judging 10y the iuxuriant crops OF gram which
ir produces. The road was mere pain
utterly impossible Tor carriages Of any 'descrip-
ton, except the little low primitive OK carts or
the country, whose screeching may usually be
heard for q mile. 1t Is, besides. covered with SO
many stones OF all shapes and sizes that WAS as
tonisned at my little horse being able 10 get along
at all, and was kept in continual expectation OK
his breaking his legs. He did not, however, put
followed his owner. who was trudgng on BEFORE



a step equally certain and unerring.


We soon cross the little plan on which the sun
is pouring down hts hottest rays. and are glad to
take shelter under the trees on the side OF noun
tain, which we soon begin to ascend. From this
forward we are continually going up one side OF
mountain and down the other by paths 80 steep
and rocky that | am glad to dlsmOunt and
walk and let nv horse ind his way alone
rather than take the risk OF breaking both our
necks by some uniucky stumble. From time TO
time we pass village, with its assembage or
great, massive unsightly stone houses which
serve as barn, stable and dwelling all in one, and
are usually greeted with the cry OF "Vfrd Ell Rey!"
"viua carlos Set:insoi" generally in the mouths Of
children.


The scenery all the way is beautiful, and there Is
nothing more delightful than trip Of this kind
through the mountains OF Navarro. We continue
our march until long after dark and about nine
O'Clock we strike The great road between Pampe-
luna and VHtorla into which we turn In the dlrec-
tion the latter point. Aquarter OF an hour later
we are hailed by Carst sentlnels, who were here
watching the roa to Pampeluna. short conver-
sation is exchanged between them and our guide
in the Basque language and then we are allowed
to pass without showing passport. Al ten O'Clock
we have reached the village OF Irasun, where We
put up for the night.


quarter OF an hours walk next morning
brought to the railroad connecting Pampeuna
with St. Sebastien and Miranda on the Ebro
The station house was burned, and the track
almost hidden by grass. We followed the railroad
in the direction OF Pampeluna for about two miles
to narrow gorge, where the river AraquiI, the
railroad and the highway all converge together
and crowd each other In getting through. The
railroad crosses the Araqui here twice in 500
yards, and botn bridges, fine iron ones, had been
blown up and were hanging twisted and broken
over the piers. Why they should both have been de-
stroyed the genius OF destruction only can say. We
cross the Araquil a little further down. on fine
stone bridge, one arch OF which had been blown
away, but was replaced by hght trestle work, and
leaving the Araqull behind US follow one OF Its
tributaries, which soon leads US tar up into the
mountains. Everywhere the country Is rich and
fourishlng. The little valleys are in the highest
state OF cultivation, teeming with life and popula
ton, and the mountains, wherever they afford
pasturage, covered with sheep and cattle.


There is little appearance as yet Of the country
having been impoverished by the war. Now and
then we met numbers Of pack mules, unladen led
by boys and peasant girls and learned they
were all returning from Estela, where they had
been to carry supplies Tor the army.


BY ten O'Clock we had crossed this range or
watershed separating the Araquli IRON the
Arga, and beheld lying below US a little valley
that for space OF a couple of miles seems
covered with snow. l was not long in
discovering that It was not snow, but
salt and that We had arrived in the
valley OF salinas d'Oro. famous for its salt springs
The water is so plentiful that every peasant In
the surrounding country, apparently, has his
basin, from which he derives a little income IN
addition TO that obtained from his farm. The
manufacture is very simple and inexpensive. The
water is plentiful that 1t flows through the
little valley IN considerable stream. On each
side Of 1t, covering the whole valley, nat shallow
basins have been formed Of earth. The water Is
dipped up into the basins with buckets, and the
sun does the rest. The salt is beautifully white
and pure. The village OF Salinas dOrO Is situated
up on the hillside, overlooking the valley, and
here we halted for breakfast


Learning that 800 prisoners taken in the battle
OF Monte Muro were confined mere went to see
them. They We're in a Kind OF old building re-
sembnng Spanish larm house, only that
II had large court inside. They were
lying about in this court smoking, talking and
playing carus, seemingly in good spirits, and 1
no sick among them. As lar as 1 could judge
they were well led and well cared lor; but as l
have made 1t a rule in this war 10 assert nothing
Tor truth winch has not come within my own per-
sonal observation, and as | did not see the prison.
ers eat ! am not prepared to say how they are
fed.


There Is no scarcity OF provisions here, however.
The guards and prisoners seemed TO be the
best OF terms; the prisoners were looking well
and seemed IN good spirits, and / have no reason
to suppose they were Ill treated in any way. 1t Is
true they have not reen long here, and that If so
many remain cooped up IN so small space to-
gether for long time disease Will sooner or later
break out among them. At Salinas d'Oro we
again struck the high road, leading to Pampeluna
in one direction, In the other to Estella. having
been twelve hours in making the detour around
Pampeuna.


From here to Estela, distance OF sixteen miles,
our marcl VS. an easy one, and the guide, with
my travelling bag still on his shoulders struck out
at rapid pace. When 1t Is remembered that Don
Carlos army Is composed OF such men as this
guide-hard, tough and strong their own
muies-tne secret Of his success WILL be under