Year: 1879

1t was early morning when we set off
across the wide and verdant plain beyond
the town Of Durham. Here and there cac-
fuses, towering twenty and thirty feet high,
plain was bounded by the range of the Berear
hills, while another but lower range enclosed
1t on the right toward the coast line, and be-
yond the lower range we could hear the roar
before us, closing the picture on the third
side. The only serious inconvenience en-
countered at this early stage OF the journey
arose from the attacks of the ''tikze, an in
sect as vicious as the mosquito, for l had
neglected to follow the common practice OF thei
Zulus and the traders by amounting myself
with oil at starting. Otherwise the trav-
cling was easy and pleasant enough for a
while. We logged along until we came to the|
Umgani river, which we forded by wading up|
to our knees, and on the opposite Dank Pearcel
called halt for breakfast While the Kaffirs|
were making fire to boil the kettle, PearceI
was lucky enough to bring down an antelope,
to their great delight, and they lost no timel
first became acquainted with the astonishing
voracity OF the Kaflirs' appetite. In an in1|
credibly short space OF time these ten menI
devoured the whole antelope, leaving uncon-l
sumed nothing but the skin and bones. After
breakfast our journey led upwards to thel
beautifully wooded range of hill which still
lay In front OF us but now the road assumed
totally different aspect. Huge powders,
some OF them two and three feet high, blocked
the way; and 1t was difficult for me to bel
lieve the assurance OF Pearce that OK wagons
frequently passed along the road. Here and
there bowlder larger than the rest had beenI
rolled on one side; but this did not relieve m u
first impression that the way must be im-
passable for vehicles of any kind.


In this manner, picking our way among the
rocks, we reached the summit, and now the|
road led along the top of the range, through
the Elephant Bush, with dry, sandy soil
beneath us; and here had my first impress
sion OF an African thirst. Pearce, seasoned
to the climate and smoking continuously,
was apparently unconscious OF any such
weakness; but to me it was serious matter
that, In the business Of setting out, the water


bottle had been left behind. The lofty trees,


without diminishing the intense heat, de-
prived us Of all relief from any breath OF
wind that might be blowing beyond. The
sight of leopard crossing the path in front
of us, suggested to me the use of firearms
but | was checked by my companion, who
hastily said he " hadn't time to waste powder
and shot upon such things as them-they
weren't good to eat" By the time we emerged
from the bush into the open country, the sun
was setting, but it was necessary to push on
as far as possible from the close country be-
fore the dark because Of the hyenas, leopards
and other wild beasts, which make them
selves troublesome to travellers who remain
near thsir lairs. We crossed the three little
Umslangers, and passed through beautiful
park-like country, tall hills bounding the val
ley on both sides, to the great Umslanger.
Here we halted at the house OF white man,
| an old soldier, who was famous for the fact
that he dealt in bottled beer, luxury we
could not hope to find at any later stage OF
| our expedition. No stronger inducement was
required to persuade US to finish here our first
days march