Year: 1879

arrangement and management, hence any man who contemplates planting, whether small or extended plantation, will do we'll to keep these essential points in view and avail himself of the experience gained in these several direc- tions, not only by himself but his neigh. bors, for experience is the trustworthy guide.

 Beginning with the question when to plant, there are advocates for both fall and spring setting of orchards. Pomologists very generally agree that fall IS the season for lifting seedlings and rooted layers for stocks. Many of them go further and advise planting these in the fall as this saves handling, avoids all danger from loss in heeling-in and gives the trees time to throw out and mature new rootlets before the severe summer heat and drought comes on, which is not always the case in spring planting. Another argument advanced in favor of fall planting is the leisure time occurring at this season, which naturally induces more extended orchards with work better done than during the rush and worry of the spring season.

 While on general principles it is safe and wise to advise the fall planting of fruit orchards, this advice, like all others, is subject to modification. Fall planting, for instance, should be avoided ln climates where the winters are long and severe, or where alternate freezings and thawings are frequent. Again, on some soils, experience has taught that stone fruits succeed best when set dur ing the spring. The matter therefore resolves itself into the fact that the season of planting extends from after the fall of the leaf iu autumn by frost, until it's reappearance in the spring, provided the ground is not frozen,

 There are soils of certain texture and quality, as that commonly termed sandy loam, with sandy clay sub-soil, in which, with proper management, all the hardy fruits can be grown in perfection.

 On this may be gained good results in apples, pears, cherries and peaches. On the other hand, soils there are who'll ly unfit for any kind of fruit trees these comprise such as are peaty or mucky, damp and cold and spongy soils. Ex- perience has proven that apples thrive best in dry deep soil, between sandy and clayey foam, and possessing a con siderable portion of llme. The plum excepting perhaps the Canada or native, and Mirabelle, which succeed on very light soils-do best on @ rather stiff clayey loam. The cherry and peach require light, dry and warm soil for enduring orchards.

 The best site for an orchard varies with localities, hence the wisdom of gaining in the immediate neighborhood the knowledge required. An eastern and southern exposure on low ground is to be avoided in sections where late and severe spring frosts prevail. If high winds from the west and north are to be guarded against it is recommended that situation be chosen where some natural protection, as belt of woods or hill, will break their force. If no such protection already exists, it will be wise to set out at the same time the orchard is planted border of some rapid grow. ing tree which will form protection by the time the fruit trees have come into bearing.

 Selecting the varieties for fruit or chard is most important point and should be made in reference to the spe- cial purpose for which the fruit is in- tended. A commercial orchardist in the immediate vicinity of a good market will find profit in summer and early au. tumn fruits, for instance, while the mar ket grower at 8 distance obtains his gain from late autumn and winter varieties which may be safely packed and trans- ported. Low, stout trees, other things being equal, are preferable to tall, slen- der ones, and especially should this preference be observed in elevated and exposed positions.

 The square form, in rows the same distance apart and an equal space be- tween each tree, is the usual plan prac- ticed is setting out orchards. Twenty five feet is the distance generally allowed for the average apple orchard. P. Barry recommends thirty feet in all directions as none too many for standard trees. Peach trees should be set at about fifteen feet apart, as should plum and cherry trees. Standard pear trees require from twenty to twenty-five feet. These dis tances are of necessity only approximate, there being great difference bstween the sizes and varieties of the same fruit and also in their habits of growth.

 The season previous to planting the soil should be at least twice plowed and enriched with suitable composte. When this has been done planting an orchard is simple matter, holes being dug deep and wide enough to admi. the roots. Where the soil has not been previously prepared planting requires considerable labor, especially if there is any defects ia the soil, which ought to be remedied at this time by the aid of composts. Dig large holes and line the bottom with 0 good bed of compost composed, if the soil is too compact, of sand, leaf-mould, muck, etc., to render it more porous, and if too light, of clay, stiff loam and ashes to render it more retentive. Lime should form part of these composts, especially for apple and pear trees. Barry recommends half peck of lime mixed with the bed of each