Year: 1878

fARIS, June ", 1873.


10 the Editor of the Press:


Words cannot utter it! Don't expect logic or
reason from me, writing from this whrllpg.


boiling, resounding Paris, in the full tide of the
Exposition and in the full blaze of summer.
Ever since that memorable first of Nav. when
saw Marshal MacMahon descend from the
Irozadero and lead a crowd of glittering
princes across the Bridge of jena and through


the. Avenue of Nations, while the rain poured
and royal Dersonages of ancient lineage gaily
leaped the puddles and splashed through the
mud, thus formally opening the Exposition
ever since that night when all Paris was abaze
with light, and recovered its spirits for the
first time since that gloomy era seven years
ago when the Prussians encamped in the shad.
ow of the Arch of Triumph,-ever since that
time, the noise, the glitter, the crowd aud the
mental exaltation have been always on the in
crease. Under no Emperor or King, they say,
was Paris ever so brilliant as it is under the
Republic of 1878. The reverses of 1901
almost broke the heart of the people-for the
first time in their recent history they were
doubtful of themselves. The dreadful thought
haunted them, as it did many of US during and
after the Rebellion, perhaps after all we are
not the greatest nation oD earth" But that de.
preston is now over, and Paris is receiving all
the world within its gates, fsirer, prouder and
more regal than ever. 1t is not al together the
Exposition itself, great and wonderful as it is,
that causes the general enthusiasm. Except
in the matter of the fine arts aud tasteful and
elaborate decoration, some good judges are of
the opinion that the Philadelphia Exposition
was quite as crsdtable A member of the
English Commission told me that, speaking
with thorough knowledge of both he gave
our Centennial the preference; and as my in
terlocutor looked down upon me from hight
OF six feet three, in a very broad -shouldered
way, and pronounced all his long o's "o,U' and
all his italian as "a1', as every patriotic Brit
on must, felt greatly comforted and strength
ened by his observations.


1t is not so much the Exposition, then. that
makes Paris what it is to-day, as its accessories
aod incidents-the general establishment of
its streets, boulevards, monuments, D alacss and
temples, the immense concourse of strangers.
the succession of entertainments and letes the
military reviews, the theatres, and, above all the
indescribable variety Of animation of the
streets. 1t is rot the same place which
l saw only a little more than a year ago.
The electric light has played no unimpor-


lant part in its transformation, and I
suppose that nothing was ever more
brilliant than the scene now presented every
night to one who takes his stand by the
obelisk of Luxor in the centre of
the Place de la Concorde. On one
hand, up the Rue Royal, the noble, classic
portico of the Madeleine; across the Seine in
right line, the old Bourbon palace, or Corps
Legslatif, where the statues of Sulley aud Col
bert now sit in the blaze of what we may call
artificial sunlight; on the side of the Tuleries
another row of electric lights, which enable
one to catch view, through the trees of
the garden, of the ruined facade of the nal
ace and of the new wings which are already
completed; on the side of the Champs Elysees
still more of the wonderful lights which. one
would think, must render somewhat circum-
spect the conduct of the lovers who are seated
everywhere under the thick, Eysian foliage;
farther to the west towers the Arc de Trom phe
while the gilt dome Of the Invaides, under
which the first Napoleon sleeps so profoundly,
is visible little to the right of the Bourbon
Palace. All this is very tame in the re-
cital, but very wonderful to see-almost as
wonderful as the view in front of the Grand
Opera at midnight, when the Boulsvards ON
either hand are swarming with the people of
all nations in all sorts of costumes, when the
sidewalks IN front of the cafes aud rest
aurants are occupied by multitudes of ele-
gantly dressed people Of both sexes who are
slipping wine, beer,-which within twelve
months has invaded this country that formerly
knew it not and at the name of which Bor.
deaux must tremble,-the green absintbe.
which wrecks body and soul more speedily than
the most drastic whiskey of our native land.
or coffee with the insepaIabe little glass Of
cognac. The whole squars is now lighted
entirely by the electric process, and on each
side OF the new avenue leading from the Ooera
TO the Theatre Fran9ais is row of the ingeni-
GUS Russian suns. So, in part Of Paris, al
any rate, there is no more night.


But the thing which interests and delipbts
me more than all else in Paris is the wholly
unexpected fervor of the Republican senti-
ment. There is something almost touching in
the political attitude of this people. Thew re-
lolce In the success OF the Exposition prima-
rly because of its republican paternity The
Empire brought US down, they say,-bus see
what industrial and moral successes self.goy. |
ernment brings us. They chafe under the
imperfections of their present system and es-
peclally the absurd restrictions on the righ. to
speak, to assemble in public meetings. and to
print; bat they regard the present governments
as great step in advance aud as being only |
the stepping stone to the complete liberaliza-
ton OF their institutions. They have learned |
under the ststesmanlke tutelage of Gam.
BETA to wait, to suffer temporary evils, and
to rely on peaceful political methods. Thew
feel that the time has come when they can |
safely trust to reason and to the ballot to cor
rect what is wrong. They wait for the elec-
tons OF next year to make the Senate as we'll as
the Assembly democratic; they wait for 1880 to
place at the head of the Republic for the first
time in its history sincere and devoted friend
of selfg "vernment But the almost breathless
interest With which they watch political affairs.
and the evident high tension of their feelings
lead me to think that If the men of the Elysee,
making tool of MacMahon. were to rereat
their 10th OF May plot and were to persist in IL.
those barricades which have by their influence
given parliamentary government to nearly all
Europe, and which represent almost the only
unselhsh warfare ever waged on this earth.
would rise in all parts of Paris. So long as
their opponents will make even reasonable
pretense of relying on the ballot the Dsmo
Gratis will rely on it 700 and bow loyalty to its
decision. But against the cannon and tba
bayonet, directed by De Broglie and his fellow
conspirstors, what efficacy has the ballot and
what remedy is there but the aarricade terrible
to tyrants, but benefcent to mankind? To one
who has watched the French people and
studied them, as have tried to do, there can
remain not the slightest doubt of their entire
and enthusiastic devotion to democraoy. tits
their dream and their passion. What conceiv-
able outrage SO great as to attempt to stamp ont
this passionate conviction once mora by treaeh.
cry and violence? Woe to him who shall al,
tempt it! The only time my blood has been
thoroughly stirred since have been in France
was when saw the grim old Marshal-Presi.
dent, surrounded by foreign princes, their
breasts covered with orders and the insignia of
their rank, pass through a crawd of French