Year: 1879




with Crimson but combination of light blue
ana gray makes one shiver. The effect of dark
olue Is quite different; the depth gives strength,
ming, or the contrasting rest Of gold.colored
satin, catches the light, and holds it, giving q
sSaaas warm radiance az a1I to the whole gure Some
6lue with white, are lovely, seen on the white
beach of the seashore on q hot summers day,
but s, .da dark green looks sickly and all the red


Black silk or satin are very suitable for eve
ming wear at the seaside, and some most beau
quantities OF fine jet or amber beads, which
were wonderfully effective. tall, slender
figure arrayed In this way makes picture in
the large, well-lighted rooms or In the brilliant
corridors, while smaller women look well in
garnet or crimson silk, with only full ruches or
plaitings of lace to relieve them. The dencacy
of muslin of minute design or fade ttnts are all
thrown away on these large spaces and broad,
high lights. What is needed In dress is clear
outline and a vivid bit Of light or warm color
n Muslins have no depth; they are seen to great
est advantage and are most becoming In the clear
sunlight, In pretty rural spots surrounded by
foliage and flowers.


It Is rather curious that plaids, Scotch plaids,
which are SO exactly suited to the mountains,
seem to be out Of place at the seaside. The
reason is that the mountains limit them, hem
them in, hold them, subdue their strong combi-
nations OF color, while the limftleSS sea spreads
them out to an indefinite extent, is angry at
them, and finds no density, solace or comfort in
them.


BATHING DRESSES.


A great innovation was made last year, upon
established ideas, In regard to bathing costumes
Dy some travelled young ladies at Newport, and
elsewhere, which caused good deal OF an out
cry on the part OF sober mothers and plain
spoken papas. The imported dress was sort OF
Princess suit, fitted to the form, with shoIt
trousers end sleeveless waist, cut in one and
held by q belt, in addition to the buttons which
fastened 1t down the front. The arms were left
the dress, after being In the water, was simply
an additional skin, wet and rubbed into wrinkles.
For such dresses, at English and Continental
bathing places, there Is some excuse, the bath
ing houses being on wheels, so that the occu-
pant can step from them directly into the
water. But here there Is always more or less OF
beach to be traversed under fire from hum
dred opera glasses and many pairs OF eyes thus
rendering so scant a covering a target for indel-
1cate comment and notifying innuendO. Where
private beach Is Obtatnable the direction, of
course, does not hold good, and, doubtless, the
less weight of clothing and incumbrance under
such circumstances, the better. But wherever
publicity necessitates certain amount of ex-
retain little drapery to save the sense of de-
cency, even II 1t Is but OF small practical SER
vice. No improvement has ever been made
upon the short Prlncesse overdress and trousers.
1t dlSpenseS with the unnecessary fulneSS OF the
separate waist and skirt. is perfectly protective
as little of an incumbrance as is possible, and
very easily made.


White flannel is not at all suitable for bathing
dresses. 1t is discolOred Immediately by the
salt sand seaweed, and the like. Russian gray
and dark blue are the best colors, and little
binding of white or red may be added at plea
sure, to brighten the effect. The sleeves should
be short and the trousers not longer than an
inch above the ankle, so that there shall be as
free play to the limbs as possible. Small oil SILK
caps are now almost universally used for inclos-
Ing the hair. and over this straw shade hat,
tied down under the chin. which is not injured
by the salt water, and Is protection from the
sun. 1t is much better, however to bathe fn
the early morning, without an oil skin coveringt
yhny,t In hAtS Sn
plunge may be taken head first and the vigorous
action kept up from top to toe, as well as from
the shoulders down. An entire outfit for bath
be cap and
OF IS, so that 1t is hardly worth WHILE excepting
Ior the sake OF carrying out ones own ideas In
regard to color or design, to 60 to the trouble of
making bathing suit at home.


PREPARATIONS FOR THE MOUNTAINS
the season In the mountains is very short.
1t does not really begin until about the middle
Within the space Of six weeks the great current
OF fashionable travel denies through the once
almost impenetrable fastnesses OF northern
In the winter and throughout all the Ioveliness
OF the spring, the early summer, and glorious
autumn, the hills are lett to their sOIitudes
pro eIeken en- ON Gmy oy the s9ond OF the
pr1s1ng traveller. With July, however. the re-
gton wakes up to a new and busy life. The
hotels which have been closed, are opened.
Trains arrive daily with cargoes OF goods.
Fresh paint, clean linen, and frightened silver
puts new aspect upon the emptiness which so
lately relgned, and shortly trains arrive with
and attendants; the mountain stages and
coaches with their sure footed horses begin
their dismal climbing and labortng up and down
the steep sides OF mountain and ravfne and the
summer life has fairly begun.


OF course. enjoyment simply means fresh air
and no encumbrance. All one wants to do is to
breathe. as often and as much as one can The
air will DO for US In such regions we
Will only let 1t. But we must not carry around
trains, or think Of dressing three times day
one occupies all the time we want to spend at
1t, and the dress we put on must be as little Of
an obstacle to active outdoor life as Is possible
II must be short, it must be dark, it must have
catch in the bushes or the briars, and it must
not be spoilable by the sun, or the mist, or the
rain: Dark Scotch plaid, In all wool navy blue,
tains. Gray must be dark, and relieved with
some warm bright color to suit the general
tone OF ones surroundings. Shawls of crimson
but blue eod and the saSone phgg
take all the expression out of mere ttnts


Many dresses are not required for the noun
able to comfort. All white with light fabrics
are thrown away. Warmth and depth OF tone
and color are required. Sol1dity of fabric also
aarmonizes harm better with the atmospheric varla.
lions than thinner materials and Is much more
conducive to general health and comfort. SILK
or gauZe underwear will never be dispensed
Will dItcI JH0y nave once Oo6n worn, ana the
silk Is much the most agreeable though II fs
also more expensive. White underskirtS are
entirely out OF place The striped SeerSuckerS
are cheap and good, but of course very service
able and more elegant ones can be made OF
plain wool turned up with Silk or satin, or IL
thin, quilted satin exclusively The flannel
skirt should also be colored crimson or scarlet
are the best and may be as beautifully en-
broidered as time and taste will permit


The hosiery should be OF silk or fine soft
lambs wool, as thin cotton afford no protection,
and thick or thin, are hard to walk upon The
shoes, OF course, should be substantial broad
soled, and wellmade The fancy kid boots,
with high heels set almost In the middle of the
sole, are instruments of torture To walk upon,
and rob the boot OF all Physiological virtue A
subsfa fantial shade hat, waterproof ulster,
which Is an enormous improvement on the old
waterproof cloak, because so close and COM
pact, a pair OF thin rubbers and q light shawl or
scarf, which can be thrown over the head and
around the neck for evening promenades, are
all indispensable. But one can very well get
along without ruffleS, or Ribbons, or sashes or
bracelets, or frkZes, or fancy mfttS, or many
ornaments, and will probably enjoy the noun
tafns In the directly inverse ratio TO the num-
Der of our possessions we carry along with us,


JENNIE JUNE.


THE EDUCATIONAL CONGRESS.-At the session
or the National Educational Society In Philadel-