Year: 1878

tints One sees that it has thrown out a vast
quantity of new lava into the bed OF this great
ampitheater surrounding the active cone. This
lava has cooled sufficiently on the surface in
many parts to appear of black color, but
through the cracks in the surface here and
there can be seen the red-hot lava beneath, and
in one direction continuous stream of red-hot
lava is seen extending for long distance. This is
the lava last emitted and the reflection from it
upon the yapOr above cause the horizontal glow
OF light over the summit of VeSuvius seen from
Naples the night before our ascent. This stream,
upon casual look from a distance, seems mo-
tionless, but on closer inspection it is observed
by the portions of dark colored Stag on the sur
face, that it is moving slowly but steadily, and
that 1t has the appearance OF melted iron in a
foundry. This current is flowing in the direc-
tion OF the depression or break in the great
outer rim OF the volcano, caused by the sudden
sinking Of the ground here since the commence
ment Of the present activity Of Vesuvius. 1t
Will require rise OF the lava in the basin of the
crater of only twenty Or thirty feet to reach the
point Of flowing out of this depression and down
through the loosely compacted walls, composed
OF lava, ashes, cinderS, and lapilli, without
taking the trouble OF mounting to 60 over them
al ana t en aga and fng
season. But the very process Of the formation
OF this new cone, the filling up of the old crater
with new lava, and the collapse Of a portion of
the outer wall, is i'm the line of making those OBJ
structons to its vent, which in the past has been
preliminary to greater eruption when Its outlet
has thus got obstructed. ,Vesuvius appears at a





tallc looking ribs and strong fianks extending
down to the sea, to be as solid as a mountain Of
iron; but on looking down the inner walls of the
great crater the streams of white vapOr iSSu-
ing in every direction show that it is honey
combed, with passages leading to the fiery
abysses OF the interior world, and one learns to
appreciate the fact thatthe crowno OF this stately
mass may collapse or be blown off at any mo-
nlent.


THE OUTLOOK FROM vESUvICs.


Before descending into the crater, turned to
take the view from the mountain top. 1t was
one of wonderful magnificence and exquisite
beauty. The grand sweep Of the bay OF Naples
extended below with every tint of rich, warm
color in the water, the sky, the beautiful
islands, the bold headlandS, and the continuous
line OF blfght-tinted cities and villages all the
way round A certain tender Indian summer
haze, which have seen nowhere else in Italy,
and which may be due to the smoke from VeSu-
V1us, gave the whole landscape and waterscape
sort OF dreamy charm quite indeScrbable. To
this harmony Of color must be added the differ
ent rich browns OF the lava fields below; choco-
late burnt umber, &c. Here was presented the
spectacle OF two million of the lighteSt-hearted
people under the sun huddled right under the
brow of this terrible mountain, building their
habftatfonS over the graves OF the ancestors
destroyed by it, and taking the average chances
OF having a lava stream come down upon them
once in three years. The course OF the great
lava streams that have gone down from VeSu-
yius could be traced like the rivers on a map.
IL was curious to note how much they Tesem-





ored g..2aciers) in their general outline but in
passing over or among them in the Zig-Zag as
cent, it is seen that their structure is altogether
different from that OF the glacier. Sometimes
they take on the shape Of great coils OF writh-
ing SerpentS; sometimes that Of the discovered
limbs and bodies OF giants cast in bronze: then
again the distorted lava looks like great bundles
OF rope, OF like the gnarled trunks limbs and
roots OF colossal trees. The lava field between
the observatory and the foot of the cone has ex-
aclly the appearance OF newly-ploughed field;
n cir fH0 0n1rr,r f1nnt =
pl0uShlng must have been done by TitanS.


DOWN INTO THE CRATER.


My Strapmen took me down into the crater on
the run, and then set Off across the new lava TO
some OF the red-hot fisSures, where they pulled
out some dabS of the fluid lava upon a stick and
went TO work making impressions Of coins.
These they sell for franc each, and it required
some pointed remarks TO detach them from thi;
agreeable business to visit the other parts
the crater, and especially the great point of in
terest, the new cone. We got quite near it. bu
as the red-hOt scOra docking like SpultS of red
scaling waX) was falling in showers over the
edge, the guide would not permit us to ascend
IL, ana IT was not easy to settle the moOted
question whether ii has one opening or two, as
the dense cloud OF sulphur0us vapor emitted
concealed the mouth even when we were to the
WindWafd. While we were in its close vicinity
collapse in portion of the bed of the new
lava near us caused the guide to make us move
away with some speed. In many places the





over it, and occasionally one would ''Slump I'M
through the thin crust of a bubble or blister but
bottom was always touched underneath with
out getting into an abyss. over most of the
field the lava was hot enough to make it un-
pleasant for the feet, but the worst that hap
pened TO me was to Scorch beyond redemption
pair of walking shoes, but they had already
been pretty badly demoralized by the rough eX-
periences of Alpine travel. In fact, had been
saving them up for Vesuyfus.


HOW WE WENT DOWN vEsUyIUs.


After exploring the field OF new lava Satisfac-
toriy we mounted to the rim of the great crater
to take fresh survey, interior and exterior.
very much to the disgust of our guides and por-
tiers, who wanted to get us down the mountain
in season to secure new customers for the as
cent; but our party was large enough to outvote
them, and we staid as long as we chose, taking
the bearings Of the place, watching the course
OF the stream OF moving lava, (beSt seen from
aoole,l ana ENJOYING once more the magnificent
summit of Vesuvius was quite cool, and it was
not unpleasant to take shelter little within
the u rim OF the crater, where seated upon bank
OF warm earth, emitting sulphurous fumes, we
TOOK cheap vapOr bath. On starting to 90
down my strap men asked me to note the time,
Inc descent OF the cone occupied Just five min
uteS, While the ascent had required over an
-Four. The Two men seized Inc, each by an arm
and asking me to keep stride with them. COM
inenced series OF tremendous leaps down the
mountain side that was more like flying than
anything ever experienced. expected every
moment that my legs would come out of their
sockets, or that should 60 whirling head over
heelS III a series OF SumnlerSaultS, but we oot
down all right. The bean-ShaDed volcanic sand
so dlfhcult to climb Is just the thing to help you
down. '


WATCHING vESUvIUS.


On the return visited the Observatory. and
through the intelligent aid of Mr. Caprini. of
the Hotel des Etrangers [who is a fine linguist
as well as first-class landlonl), acting as inter-
prefer, had an interesting talk with Prof. Pal
mi1, the distinguished scientist, who as director
OF the Meteorological Observatory has made 50
close study OF VesuviuS. He is little bright
eyed. gray-headed, active old gentleman hay
ing the requisite enthusiasm in his study to risk
ms llfe at his post here when VeSuyiuS is send
ing down great rivers of lava all about him
His Observatory is planted upon little ridge
or Old lava right in the track of the lava
streams or late years, and though they have
heretofore turned to one side or the other the
cnanceS are that 1t will some day be over
Whellned. The great lava stream of 1872 nearly
enNe!Oped his place, and the heat on one
Side OF the observatory at that time was ~
Centlgrade, or somewhere in the nefghborhood
OF 200 Fahrenheit; but he stuck to his nosr
ana made series of observations of the
greatest scientific interest and importance
1t was during this eruption and i'm the
vicinity OF the Observatory that some
twenty persons who had paused incau-
llOusly watching the scene were enveloped
between two streams of lava and suffered the
most n0rflQ death fmaoina 10 hip. Saainu tho CIou