Year: 1877

H.


Duluth has been so we'll ventilated by
the papers that we pass by it without say
ing more than that there was a pleasant
degree of local activity observed upon every
hand, and a host of pleasant people to en-
tertain you with their kindly hospitality.
We arrived here Friday noon, and having
formed one fishing party there were five Of
us, counting our half breed cook and inter
prefer and packed our traps and laid in
our provisions for a two weeks tramp. we
sailed from Duluth, Saturday evening at s
o'clock, on the Canadian steamer NanHoba
for Neepigon river, one of the northern
feeders Of Lake Superior. Although this
was the middle of July, it was too cool to
remain on deck without a heavy overcoat
as we passed cut of Duluth harbor 1t
seemed strange to be sailing under the Eng
lish tlig, having never before been pro-
tected by the folds of any other emblem
but eur own beautiful star spangled ban
ner. Sabbath morning dawned as bright
and beautiful as one could wish, and the
scenery through which we passed was en-
chanting and in full keeping with the spirit
of that day of all the week the best
Our vessel steamed along the Canadian
side of the lake, and we enjoyed the beau
titul scenery, for which the north shore is
50 justly famous. Our first landing was at
Fort William, at the mouth of the Kama
nistlquia river. Here we enjoyed ~ the
rather questionable pleasure of having our
selves photographed upon the Sabbath.
While we were leaning over the rail Of the
forward deck, watching the strange sights
which greeted us at an outpost of the Hud-
son Bay Company, lusty voice sung out
All hands stand still" which, of course,
had the contrary effect of making every
body turn and move around To see what
was going on, when we saw a dark looking
object pointing at us from the opposite
shore Of the creek, which our knowledge
of civilized parts told us was a camera, and
while we Were wondering at the specula-
tive spirit of the man who would venture
with such a companion into these parts,
our picture, along with the others, was
transferred to his plate. We soon backed
around in the small river and steamed out
again into the wide eXpanse of Superior.
We next stopped at Prince Arthur's l. md
i lg, and from thence turned directly towards
/, d Rock, the Hudson Bay Post, where we
were to land. We We're now in Thunder
Bay. where one of the grardest and wild





granted the traveller that can we'll be found.
We passed uear Thunder Cape, which
stretches its lofty head almost perpendicu.
l.rly |, $50 feet above the level of the lake
The scenery here is simply indc scribable.
The water was clear mountain spring.
and the rays Of the setting sun, blending
with the shadows which this towering cliff
was spreading as dark mantle over the
waters combined TO form a scene that will
ever dwell with unchanging freshness in
oar memory. We steamed past this place,
So beautiful in its wildneSs and utter desc
lation, about tea time, but the steward,
either out of respect for the weird and
peculiar beauty Of the scene, or from uu-
Willingness to break the spell of our pccu-
liar pleasure did not ring the supper bell
until we were well on our way to Silver
islet, where we stopped amid the clatter of
the dishes. This was once but an uun
habited aud dangerous reef but has proved
to possess one of the richest silver deposits
of the north west. The night now began
to throw regrettu shadows over these be-
witching scenes of beauty. and the keen
air drove us to our cabins to don our heavy
suits. Expecting to land before midnight,
we soon made our appearance in thick win
ter clothes and our pants in our boots. At
. o clock we arrived at the mouth Of Nee
pigon river; the landing was three miles up
the stream, and the captain would not risk
the passage through the tortuous channel
at night, and we were compelled to go
ashore in boats, although quite a heavy sea
was making into the river. It. was dark as
midnight, and dangerous task to load and
embark in such sea, but with care we sue
ceeded without any miShapS. Our boat
reached the wharf about 10 o'clock, where
a sight met Us altogether new and some
what startling. The ships lanterns, which
we held in our hands, showed us about fifty
strange, uncouth Indians crowding around
us, and mutteIing their unintclligibc Jar
gon. Not white man was in sight. The
Indians were wild, half dressed fellows,
with long hair and dangerous look ing
knives hanging from their waists; but they
did not molest us in the least, bat kept us
on the watch, as we had heard they were
notorious thieves. The keeper at the Post
shortly afterwards arrived and provided us
with a shauty to sleep in under the protec


ton Of the Post. We arranged ourselves
on the floor in true camp style and slept
till morning. About five We awoke, and
washed in cold stream Of water as we
could iiud at home in November, and made
our way to the shore on tie river bank.
Here cur cook was preparing our breakfast
Of bacon and coffee, and we began to make
cur bargains for two birch bark canoes and
thee guides to go up the stream to the
fishing grounds. Each canoe must have
two paddlers; 50 with our half breed, Basil,
we needed three more; we got them after
considerable bargaining for 81 - a day for
canoes and men; their names were Peter,
Moses, and Jimmey. After packing our
canoes carefully with all we brought, we
padded off il true Indian style with all
our possessions at our feet. And now be-
gan what was, in reality. the strangest and
most romantic part of the tour. We were
nearly two thousand miles from home, and
our canoes were heading still further north
4 ii we needed was at our feet, except visions
of mighty fish, and they We're in our head
" ~ Ii