Year: 1866

JkSDAY MORNING., M


FAsHfONsr-Co Commentator upon the fash.
ions announce o change in them which
will be hailed with general satisfac-
tion, viz: the diminution Of diameter and
longitude of ladies' walking dresses. The
graceful folds and sweeping lines Of the
long skirts were admirable In the parlor-
where they will be retained-but when
trailing in the mud and dust Of the streets
they were disgusting. They give to woman Q
greater apparent height and more grace OF
.ffiotion In parlor and hall. But when we
Remember their appearance In the street
we must all fe ioiee at their eurtailment en-
promenade. The dimintition Of diameter Of
crinoline followed, as a matter Of neces.
sity, the curtailment of skirt. To curtail
the latter without Diminishing the former
would have made the dear ladies ungrace-
fully short and dumpy:


The principal court dress-maker Of Paris
has absolutely made some ball dresses with
short skirtsi That is invading the long
skirt in an arena where II has 50 long
reigued supreme that It will take some
time before 1t can be well ,dispossessed of
its authority. None but the most lnde-
pendent of the flegantes can dare to adopt
shepherdess toilettes in the midst OF the
graceful train for some time. 1t will be
sharp trial to the more reserved Of the sex
to appear in dress SO conspicuous as 1t
must be until 1t becomes general. Should
the shortening of ball dresses prevail, the
fashion will extend itself probably to din
ner dresses, and lastly to the parlor.


The trained skirt has been absolutely
suppressed in the streets Of Paris, and the
short petticoats of the Restoration are ma
king strong effort to get the upperhand.
Queen Eugene, however, comes to the
rescue of the trains. 1t Is her wish that
trains shall be worn on all ceremonious
occasions, dinners, soirees, etc.; but her
Majesty will encourage short skirts for
dancing, as young ladies find the train 80
inconvenient In waltz and polka, while
they sometimes, in crowded rooms, prove
dangerous.


We make q few extracts from Paris gos-
sip on dress:


Short redingotes are once more making
their appearance. They are made of self
colored silk and poplin, and are worn over
alpaca and poplin dresses. These redin-
gotes are also simulated in light colors for
dinner dresses. Thus, over plain white
chambery gauze dress redingote Of white
cerise silk will be simulated; 1t will be
bordered with cerise rouleaux, and either
ruche or blonde will be arranged in front
to make the bodice. At the back the dress
will be slightly loose.


The Partisan gossiper adds: This is only
suited to elderly ladies', whose figures lack
symmetry. -.-......


Short skirts are becoming general.
Some of them open at regular intervals
over simulated petticoat, which Is q
novel and pretty style.


Low bodices are all cut after one pat
tern: the waists are very short and are en-
circled with broad round band, and to
this band either peplum, fancy basque,
or sash ends, are ad ded.


Another pretty addition to an evening
dress is basque cut out round the edge
in six scallops. This basque is entirely
closed in front, and is trimmed with but
tons. It's usually made in some heavy ma
terial, and particularly in velvet.


Many varieties of low peplums and
basauines are now made with tarletar
dresses. -... -.


A pretty style Of low basquinc is made
in Hortensia pink, China blue, and white
silk.


Tarletan skirts are now made very sim.
ply they have either plain ruche Oh
three narrow quilted founces round the
edge.


What are styled afternoon calling and
promenade dresses are trimmed very mag
niicently, and the skirts of them are moi
yet shortened. Self-colored satin Of Q
rich quality is to be the fayorite material
for such toilets, as we'll as for dinner
dresses during the winter.


Bodices are now frequently trimmed
with ladders of cross-cut straps, reminding
us of the frog buttons of yore, only, instead
of being carried up to the top of the bodice
these straps or bands only mount midway
up the chest. The sides Of the bodice are
further decorated with braces, which in.
crease in width as they cross the shoulders
and do not descend to the waist behind, but
describe point in the centre Of the back
Small straps composed of extremely narrow
cross-cut bands are carried round the edge
of the point, and fall in straight lines or
the bodice, the centre one by no means
touching the waistband.


This brief sketch may suffice for Decem
ber. We are decidedly in favor OF the
ladies dressing well and tastefally. Let
them 90 on with their finery to the exten'
of their means-but not beyond that. We
wish they had million each, so that they
might show their taste without restraint
But while there is nothing so lovely ano
enchanting as the dear terrestrial angels in
all the fnery of silks, flowers, and feather
most ingeniously fashioned, we will whisper
into the ear of any young man to select
from the brilliant throng that beauty WHIT
is neither plain to affectation nor yet ex
travagantly attired. The good taste and
unaffected sense Of propriety which avoids
extremes bespeaks alike grace and virtue
to adorn society and impart to domestic
life the highest refinement and pures
felicity.


The VEGETABLEs.-In no respect has
the process of reconstruction Of this 10
cality been more apparent than in the i'm
provement of the gardens. Turnips, beets
cabbage, and "garden sass" generally
show this very plainly. While many in
dustrious, enterprising men are exerflnl
all their powers with no better success
than barely to earn subsistence, these
radical occupants of the earth arc swellin,
out and spreading their green tops a
though they would monopolize the whole