Year: 1878

huge mountain carry on its works, 50
that now we were clearly able to un-
derstand what was meant by ''every
pulsation of the volcano being duly
registered at the observatory.


Clouds Of smoke and fumes were
issuing from the summit of the cone
now densely dark, as if fresh supply
Of coal had been heaped on the FIRE;
then intensely light, as if the engine
were blowing off its steam, and then
most beautifully and delicately tinted
with the tenderest rose-pink, as if an
artist were testing how best to com
bine the loveliest tints Of his art; then
pale salmon little while, and then
as If five thousand torpedoes were
simultaneously exploded. The huge
mountain seemed to heave, and forth
from its mouth issued immense guam
titles Of molten lava, shot scores Of
feet high up into the air-apparently
at the mouth all in one body, but there
separating into millions Of pieces,
great and small, all glowing with the
most intense red heat that can possibly
be seen. With a powerful operas glass
we silently watched the visible opera
tions Of the volcano. Each piece as it
ascended into the air was separate; no
piece was partly red and partly black,
but was on fire and at red heat through.
but, mostly, the lava emitted fell back
again into the bosom Of the heaving
mass, but with every emission quanti-
ties, large or small, fell on the outside
OF the mouth, and thus we saw readily
how the cone had gradually but con
tinnously increased in size and height.
Every now and then a huge mass
would drop outside, and then would be
heard an immense crash, followed BY
vast quantities of lava rolling down
the sides of the cone. AS we stood
watching, at intervals there seemed to
be the firing Of ten thousand guns of
mightier calibre than Krupp's, and we
soon found that this was the precursor
OF grand display. Up rose, possibly
one hundred feet above the cone, an
immense mass spreading in the shape
of lady's ian, and presenting one of
the most magnificent sights the eye of
man can ever see. And this upheaval
was not thing for which we had to
wait till our patience was exhausted,
and to wonder if it would be repeated
or not, but was continuous and inces-
SAINT, and almost seemed as if every re-
newed explosion were grander than its
precursor, or as indicating trial Of
actual strength prior to the great event
proposed to be completed.


AS we descended to the crater the
rain had ceased; while there it again
fell for time heavily; then the whole
surface seemed ''frizzling, and kissing,
and steaming, I as the two bodies came
into contact; the thunder overhead
was pealing like the roar of fifty parks
of artillery in concert, and the light
nlng flashed with intense vividness;
then the rain and thunder and light
ming ceased, and there was perfect
calm, nothing to be heard beyond the
machinery OF the mountain in full
vigor and s'steam up;'' then the sun
light frightened briefly the whole
scene, deepening impressions that tim0
can never erase. As the day was draw
ing on it at last became necessary to
think of returning to Naples. With
much effort and the aid Of our helper
we again got out of The crater to the
summit, but our descent was to be by
another way from that by which we
ascended. 1t was down the side Of
the mountain, at far more acute
angle than that now proposed for the
roof Of st. Alban's Abbey, but being of
loose, friable materials similar to those
we have previously described, there
was little danger Of rolling to the
bottom. Stepping out bravely, and
making long strides, with the foot and
leg halfway up plunging into the mass
at every step, our American friends
made the descent Of the outer cone in
nine minutes; we traversed it more
leisurely, and took from twelve to
fifteen. The Hermitage was soon
reached, and at once taking carriage
we started for the hotel.