Year: 1878

The season that opened so threateningly
for lovers of simple and convenient dress
with the announcement that nothing but
princesse and empress robes we're to be worn
has come out in the end in favor of common
sense and every week now brings patterns
of dresses made with basques and OverskirtS;
and IN one OF the latest Bazars we even find
a lovely full page illustration of the beloved,
long lost but never forgotten round waist
and belt, with long grace full overskirt fall
ing down from it. This darling dress is
made in the prettiest, jauntiest manner pos
sible, with pleats in the back of the waist,
and with the front crossing over surpllce
style and edged with frill which stands up
round the back of the neck, while a sailor
collar turns down.


Another pretty costume III the same num-
Der is perfectly plain cuirass basque, with
a rolling collar. The long overskirt is very
much wrinkled across the front, and is held
closely to the pleated back by three bows
down each side. As the flounces only of the
lower skirt show, the latter may be made OF
any inexpensive material. The Pleated and
belted basque is also very great favorite,
and is worn with overskirts made with long
pleats in the back and not looped at all.
All basques and waists have collars of some
kind, either square sailor collars or deep
pointed ones. Jetof all kinds is immensely
in the fashion, and we hear fabulous tales,
though as yet cur shops do not exhibit
them, of rainbow colored jet, and Jet of all
colors to suit the fabrics trimmed.


The trains each year show an inclination
to become narrower and longer; and at last
season drawing rooms many were quite four
yards long, and many were plated at the
back and then drawn with some eight or ten
runners, so that they fell only over the back
breadths OF the dress. The newest arrange
ment is to attach the trains at the back by
Q - IL.
have all the additional dignity impaired 10
the figure which trains coming from the
shoulder are supposed to give, without hat
unbecOming bunchiness. Very deep basque
bOdlces were worn, but then the train came
from beneath them; but far more becoming
are the princesse trains, cut in one with the
low bodice, and this style will probably be
adopted by young ladies in the coming sea
son. The front of the petticoats Will be
covered with flowers, which will either be
arranged in garlands. as though wound about
the figure, or in sprays thrown on in the
most careless fashion. or as though growing
up the skirt at the side-as a climber might
be trained against the wall. The petticoats
will be trimmed with tulle plaitings and
bouillonnes, or with lace headed by these
but the more indescribable the arrangement
the more fashionable. All trains should be
lined, the hem filled with a rouleaux OF
wadding, and a silk or tulle ruche placed
inside. Square trains will be much worn,
and the trimming on the square end can
hardly be too deep or elaborate. The
simplest style of bordering to a train is lace
LAID on, headed by tulle ruching, with
sprays of flowers at intervals; but now the
corners are covered with tulle pufings and
plaitings of great depth, describing a sym
metrical pattern, the lace wound in and out
of them, and secured here and there with
flowers. Lace lappets and white plumes are
superseding colored ones with tulle wells.