Year: 1866

shame OF the Genevan PrOtestantS, un-
less there is some fact to explain it, un-
known to me, found it occupied as an
establishment of the Sisters Of Charity.
Before noticing this, our driver had rung
the bell, and one of the sisters came to
the door, Mastering what French and
courage we had for the occasion, we en-
quired if this was Calvin's house, and
with a very curious look and almost shrug
she demurely replied: eyes, Gentlemen,
but its destination is changed, fact in
which we fully agreed with her as we
thought of what the stern old Reformer
would have said had he met such an ap-
partition at his door three hundred years
ago. We left, convinced we would find
no relics of the great man there. We
then went to the old cathedral, st. Pc
ter's, where he used to preach, and from
the pulpit of which he welded an infu-
ence even greater than that of Demos
themes or Cicero, in their respective
spheres, and although the original pulpit
has been renewed q good deal, the same
canopy. or sounding board


that echoed with his impassioned words.
and the same pillars and walls and stalls
and pavement are there which his dark
and flashing eye so often rested upon, as
he thundered his tremendous rebukes
and appeals to the people of Geneva. AT
the foot of the pulpit stands his chair,
plain oaken one, in excellent preserva-
ton, and although [ could not write a
letter to the Central Presbyterian on it,
as had done on Luther's table and chair
in the Wartburg, / sat in it and made
my notes of the old church, and sent up
a fervent prayer to that God whom he so
earnestly served, that some of the faith
and fervor might come down on my heart,
and that might as clearly see the mind
of the Spirit in the Word as he seems to
have done, Judging from his matchless
commentaries, that are still unsurpassed.


We next visited his grave. L know
the guide-books assert that his grave is
unknown, and it may possibly be so, but
| do not believe it, 1t would be strange
if the tradition of the grave of such
man should be lost in his own city, as
strange as if Washington's burying place
should become unknown in America
There has been no interregnum in Gen
eva, where this would be likely, and on
general grounds, such a strange loss
would be very improbable, as every one
growing up in the city would be told of
Calvin, and where his dust reposed.
The old cemetery keeper seemed indig-
nant when we doubted it, and showed us
the sheet-iron plate nailed in the wall
above his grave, which he preserved when
the wall was removed, and the square stone
with the letters j. G. on it was put to
mark the spot, and told us that the grave
was recorded in the register that was kept
in the city, and there could be no doubt
about it. As he gets no fee for showing
it, unlesssone chooses to give it, hehas no
special interest in deceiying, and indeed
the city authorities would hardly have al
lowed this spot to be marked as the grave
of Calvin, unless there was good reason
for supposing that it was. | for one be-
lieve in the tradition, and l enclose you
a few little flowers that [ plucked from
the spot, as a relic of the mighty spirit
whose mortal part is there awaiting the
trump of the archangel. | have not
room to tell you of the emotions with
which / trod the same stones, and sat in
the same seat, andlookod on the same old
houses, and threaded the same narrow
streets that he did. 1t is we'll known
that he positively forbade monument
over his grave, and one regrets it at first.
But on further reflection that regret is
lessened when we remember that his real
monument is half of Protestant Chris
tendon; and that although Geneva may
hold his dust, his fame goes mingling
with the roll Of human things, in ever
increasing reverence and admiration for
ever. He was far from being faultless,
and did and said what we must regret,
but take him all in all, the history of the
Church and world, in my judgment, pre-
sents us with no fame that stands so far
up towards the girth and altitude of
Paul, the Apostle, as John Calvin, none
who seems more nearly to have caught
his spirit, and embibed his lofty and
lovely character.


| ought perhaps, in contrast with this
pilgrimage to what remains of Calvin, to
tell you of our pilgrimage to the residence
of very different kind of Reformer, the
witty and wicked Voltaire. Ferney is
about five miles from Geneva, and Om-
nibusses run several times every day, at
the very low price of a-half franc. When
we reached the chateau, we encountered
characteristic regulation. We could
not be admitted unless we had a visiting
card. There were of the party, an Eng
lish lady, travelling in strong-minded in
dependence of the rougher sex, a French
man, my friend and myself. 1t was some
time before I discovered what the diff
Guilty was, and as | happened to have
card, the whole party was admitted, other
wise we would have been excluded. But
| thought it was fitting reception at the
house of one whose whole life was so
much thing of paste-board and enamel.
L suppose 1 am hardly qualified to judge
of any thing connected with Voltaire
fairly, but all that | saw seemed to en-
body the man with wonderful accuracy.
There stood the church which he built,
with the motto still on it "DeO ererit


VOhare, 1761," but it is now converted
into barn, and filled with straw, but is
probably quite as useful in that capacity