Year: 1878

n thick mass no more be penetrated by the
ordinary accessory of the toilette than is the
side of an iron-clad by nursery toy gun.


Formerly the fakirs INDUCED in q variety
of torturos such as swinging upon hooks
fastened in their backs, sitting upon spikes,
passing knives through their checks, and pub
lcly cutting of their finger and toes. They
never appeared to suffer pain, but, on the
contrary assumed expressions of delight
which won the admiration of the spectators,
and confirmed them in the belief that the fa-
kris were possessed Of supernatural power.
OF late years the authorities have interfered
with these pastimes, as they have with the
Suttee, or widow-burning so that the Hindoo
festivals are shorn of many attractions TO low
ers of the horrible. But in spite of the gov
ernment prohibition there is enough remain
ing to satisfy any ordinary craving, If I may
judge by the sights of our day at Allahabad.


About a mile from the meeting Of the wa
ters we were compelled TO leave our carriage,
which could not proceed further through fear
of accidents in the crowd. Our guide hailed
the driver of an elephant and in less than q
minute we had concluded bargain, and were
seated upon the back of the beast To be ex-
act, 1 should hardly say as above as the ami
NAL was equipped with n saddle like two So





hanging along his sides. l took one of these
and my friend the other, while our guide was
mounted on the elephants rump. He knelt
Mt the command of his driver, and we climbed
to our places by means Of small ladder
which wns aftorward carried in front by an
attendant and made n very convenient bat
tcring ram for opening passage through the
crowd The driver sat on the neck of the ele-
phant, and secured obedience by means Of a
huge spike of iron, with which he prodded
the animals skull. At first there was n disa-
greeable rocking that induced us to cling to
our seat with both hands by degrees it
ceased, or seemed to cease, and as we gained
confidence we began to enjoy the ride. From
our elevated position we could survey the AS
semblage at our ease, and were quite safe
from elbowing and constant contact with beg
gars and other disagroeable persons. For
half dozen reasons at least we were thank
full that we had found and engaged this novel
conveyance.


In solemn and stately way, as though we
were princes of the blood royal, we mounted
n sandy ridge that overlooks the bed of the
Ganges, and surveyed the scene. An area
mile long by half a mile in width was covered
with people-covered 30 thickly as to appear
paved with them. Rarely have l looked up
on picture more bizarre than this; thous-
ands upon thousands Of people covering the
plain, many shouting and gesticulating in
prayer or praise, and nearly all moving slow
ly in one direction or another. Near the riv-
er there were rows of tents and booths. some
the abodcs of priests or fakirs, others serving
as resting-places for the weary, and others
again devoted to the sale of food or other
merchandise TO meet the wants of the faith
ful. Flags with curious devices hoated over
many of these tents, and gave a semi-nilitary
IN tbp ,ftti,la ayt,loit,,1 4bot
the flags indicated in some instances the diff
ferent provinces in India, and in others the
worship of particular gods. We advanced
through the crowd, which was opened by the
shouts and the ladder of our attendant, pass
ing rows upon rows Of fakirs and other beg
gars seated or squatted by the way-sde A
cloth was spread before each for the reception
of the gifts Of the benevolent, and observed
that in nearly every instance the gifts consist
ed Of few kernels of rice or other grain.
Rarely was money given by anybody few
copper coins were lying before one of the
beggars, and our guide explained that these
were skillful baits placed there by the men
dicant himself in the hope that strangers
might add to the number. None of the beg
gars were pleasing to look upon, and as
glance in their direction was sure to raise
demand for charity, we soon learned to turn
our gaze elsewhere. The crowd in general
came and went poverty abounded, but was
not universal, as some of the pilgrims were
evidently persons of wealth, and had q con-
siderable following of attendants. We met
or passed several palankeens, and sometimes
the professions were quite extensive.
wealthy rajah was pointed out TO us his pal
akeen and its surroundings were gorgeous in
the extreme, and his attendants were not less
than a hundred in number He had been to
bathe IN the sacred waters, and was returning
homeward with the consciousness of having
performed pious act which would receive its
sure reward.


As we approached the junction of the two
rivers the assemblage increased in density, so
that our equipage was forced to move slowly.
A lot of RATS or boats extended a hundred
yards or 80 into the water where the Ganges
and Jumna meet, and here there were many
hundreds of people indulging in the sacred
bath. They stood or knelt in the water, ut
tering their prayers and making many bows
and genuhections. There was no order or
ceremony about the matter but each devotee
was for himself alone. On the bank near by
were little platforms where Brahmin priests
stamped upon the forehead of each worship
per a sign to indicate the service he had per-
formed, and near them were other platforms
where certain of the pilgrims sacrificed their
hair to the goddess of the river They sub
mtted hair and beard to the barber. and in q
few moments the tonsorial operation was per-
formed. The product of the harvest was
then thrown into the river, the donor being
promised n million years in paradise for every
hair thus sacrificed Many were content
with this modest recompense, and doubtless
the prematurely bald ones envied those whose
locks were thick and strong.


We made little circuit among the tents,
but found nothing there of special interest
We advanced as near as possible to the river,
and barely escaped an accident the sloping
bank was wet with water which dripped from
the emerging bathers, and our elephant slip
ped and partially fell. But we were righted
without accident and as the Indian sun was
at meridian, and beating pitilessly upon our
heads, we gave the order to return to the
sandy ridge, whence we took a long and fare
well look at one of the most remarkable scenes
of Hindostan. .-1Hos. W. Kn0r IN Harpers 8
BdSdr.