Year: 1879

FARM, GARDEN AND HOUSEHOLD
Approved Modes OF Budding.


Budding differs from ordinary graft
ing, as most farmers understand, not the
least in its nature or effects. Each bud
is a distinct individual capable of be-
coming tree under favorable circum-
stances. In grating. a branch COM
posed of several buds is employed with
q considerable quantity of bark and
wood, while in budding but single
bud with a small quantity of the ad-
joining bark and wood is used.


Pomologists are now giving the pref
erence to budding in the majority Of
cases-first, because of the great rapid
ity with which it may be accomplished ;
second, the more convenient season at
which it is done; third, the fact that the
operation can be performed without In
turing the stock in case of q failure,
which is always more or less liable in
stocks headed down for grating; fourth,
the opportunity which it affords, when
performed in good season, of repeating
the trial on the same stock. To these
several advantages may be added, bud
ding is preferred for all stone.fruits,
such as peaches and apricots. which re-
quire extra skill in grating but which
are budded with ease. 49,.


The season for budding fruit trees ex-
tends from the lst of July until about
the Ist of October. Such as cease to
grow early in the season must he budded
early, as soon rs mature buds can be OBJ
tanned, because it can only be done while
the stocks are in a free, growing state,
tull of sap. Such as grow until late in
the autumn must be budded later. The
common sort of plums terminate their
growth early in the season and are there
fore budded early, whether with plums,
peaches or apricots. The Canada plum
and the cherry plum grow freely until
fall and may be budded much later.
The different trees come into season as
follows: Plums, cherries, apricots on
plums, pears, apples, ounces, nectarines.
and peaches. In short, perform the
operation Of budding only when the
bark of the stock parts or separates
freely from the wood and when the
buds of the years growth are some
what plump and the young wood is
growing firm. -. -.


The implements required are prun-
ing knife to remove any branches on the
stock that may be in the way of insert
ing the bud, and budding knife, very
thin, smooth and keen-edged, to take off
the buds and make the incisions in the
stock. In selecting buds convenient
way is to choose thrifty shoots that have
nearly done growing and prepare what
is called stick of buds by cutting off
few of the imperfect buds at the lower
end and such as may yet be too soft at
the upper end, leaving only smooth,
well.developed single buds, double buds
being fruit buds. The form of wood
bud is always long rather than round.
In the case of peaches there are some
times triple buds, the center one of
which is wood bud. -


Shield or T-budding is one approved
mode. A variety of this method. recon-
mended by Downing and practiced by
many horticulturists. Is as follows: Hav-
ing ready stick of buds and soft woolen
warn or strands of bass mating, moist
ened in water to make them pliable for
tying the buds, choose smooth portion
Of the stock. When the latter is small.
other things being equal, let the buds be
inserted near the ground, also on the
north side of the stock, as less exposed to
the sun. A rule observed by many is /:
"In free stocks place the bud within
three or four inches of the ground; all
dwarf stocks bud close to the surface Of
the ground" Rapid, late-growing ten
der varieties, liable to be winter-killed
in some latitudes if budded near the
ground, should be bndded sufficiently
high to avoid injury, but as a general
thing low budding makes the best trees.
Having decided on the place, make an
upright incision in the bark from an inch
to an inch and half long, and at the top
of this make a cross-cut so that the
whole shall form T. From the stick
of buds, with the budding-knife, cut q
thin, smooth slice of wood and bark con.
tanning a bud. With the rounded end ol
the knife next raise the bark on each side
of the incision just wide enough to ad'
nit the prepared bud. Taking hold Of
The footstock of the leaf insert the bud
under the bark, pushing it gently down
to Che bottom ofthe incision. II the up.
per portion of the bud projects above the
horizontal part of the T cut it smoothly
off that it may completely fit. A band
age is next tied over The wound, begin
ming at the bottom and tying firmly
above, leaving the end and footstock Of
the leafonly exposed to the air. Common
shield budding differs from the method.
described in the removal of the slice o.
wood contained in the bud. Advocates
for the latter contend that when the buc
has only the shield of bark it is more
liable to get destroyed by heat or dryness
than when the wood is left on.


In about fortnight after budding its
success or failure will be apparent. iii
has succeeded and the stock is q gooc
deal swollen, loosen or remove the band,
age. If it has failed and the bark still
parts readily make another trial. Mr.
knights plan of tying buds with two
bandages is often practiced, one below
and one above the bud. In this case thu
| lower bandage is removed as soon rs tht
bud has taken, the upper one remaining
two or three weeks longer.-Ne'o Yori
World.


hOubGnOlu


Castor oil will soften leather.


To whiten ivory, boil in lime water.
Hay water is good for washing ma
terial of ecru tint.


To rid closets of ants, use green pep
permint frequently. :.


To clean zinc, rub on fresh lard with
a cloth and wipe dry.


Paint should be varnisled, because il
is then more easily cleaned.


Corsets with the whalebones removed
make good cleansing cloths.


A bit of glue dissolved in skim milk
and water will restore old Grape.


Fresh fish should be fried in the grease
obtained by frying sweet salt pork.


Tepid water is produced by combining
two-thirds cold and one-third boiling.


Onions and potatoes should be put in


warm water an hour before cooking.


Any tree or plant whipped by green
elder branches will not be attacked by
insects.


A pint of mustard seed put in a barre!
of cider will preserve.i it sweet for several