Year: 1877

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GLIMPsBS OF SOUTHERN TRAVEL


Having arranged to leave Savannah
on Tuesday morning, we were quite de-
lighted to find, upon awakening, that
the storm which for four days had been
sweeping DER land and sea" had passed
away, and though the air was keen and
cold, with the March winds which were
still holding their carnival, yet the sun
was shining so brilliantly that we could
not help but feel cheered, for we thought
that "clearness DER head" was all that
was requisite to make our sail upon the
river most delightful.


The different ways of reaching Flor
ida had been fully discussed by the
numerous guests sojourning at the hotel,
serene in the beautiful city of Savan-
nah, and the old travellers had all agreed
that the way we had chosen was by far
the most favorable. Truly, if the way
we jOurneyed was the best, pity those
who took the others; for our way, which
was called the "inside passage" prom
ised $50 said the hand-bills posted in
the most conspicuous places) ga lovely
sail upon the Savannah and st. Johns
Rivers, in a most comfortable steam
boat, with superior accommodations. ~
What, then, were our feelings, when,
upon arriving at the wharf, we found
our "fine boat' to be species of craft
scarcely better than an old tug, with
about half-a-dOzen forlorn state-rooms;
and the only preparation for heat, one
small stove, around which were gath
cred some negroes, the sole travellers,
outside of ourselves.


Our disappointment was intense. All
our bright anticipations were ''dissipated
like Dream" and the damp chilliness
pervading the boat seemed to enter into
our very marrow, robbing us of all
pleasure in watching the intricate
winnings of a river so narrow that in
many places it looked as if the boat
must Craze the banks of the marshy
ground which seemed almost to sur
round us. And, when standing upon
the bow of the boat watching our course,
the turnings of the river were so numer-
Gus that one could almost imagine we
could sail on and on forever, finding no
Outlet-nO haven in which to anchor.
But, just as We had reeonciled ourselves
to looking far off in the distance where
the clouds met our surroundings of
waving grass, a sudden bend in the
river opened to our view the broad At
lantic, and, to our amaZement, we soon
saw we were leaving our little river to
still wind on in its labyrinthian way,
and were fast sailing toward the blue
expanse of waters that lay before US.


The tide being low, our Captain, to
escape running aground, had decided to
take us out to sea, and for five hours we
tossed and rocked in the ''cradle of the
deep" The high winds blowing against
the tide made 1t quite rough, and the
old boat being unseaworthy and unpre-
pared for such treatment, broke some
part of the machinery, stopping our
progress and leaving US for an hour the
sport of the waves. Fortunately, the
accident warned the Captain of his fool
hardness, and compelled him to steer
his poor dilapidated boat into the near
est river, which being very shallow, in
short time effectually retarded our
progress, and grounded US firmly in the
sand, till the turn of the tide sent us re-
joicing on our way.


Twenty hours spent upon the boat
made us glad to see the lights at the
landing, and the little cars waiting to
convey US to our destination; and truly
thankful were We TO be again upon terra
fTn16, for the freezing and tossing had
pretty badly affected all of US.


am now sitting in quite pleasant
room in one of the st. Augustine hotels,
and from my open window can look out
upon the thickest Of foliage, very green
grass, and upon palmetto tree nearly
thirty feet high. Also in view is the
old cathedral, in the tower of which are
three bells, and upon raising my head
as l heard the sound of their ringing, a
funny sight met my gaze; for a man
was standing upon little balcony that
surrounded the tower, and by pulling
long rope attached to the bells, was
causing them to send forth their cracked
and melancholy sounds.


Everything here is very ancient. One
hardly realizes one is in an American
town, tits such quaint little place, so
odd, so different from our cities that
spring up in day. The streets are so
narrow that hand-shaking may be al
most done across them, and lining each
side are such queer little stores, filled
with odd treasures, "shells gathered
from the sea-shore," alligators' teeth
carved in strange designs, and antique
cups and pitchers cut out of the coquina
stone, curious mixture OF sand and
shells quarried here, and of which all
the ancient buildings of the place are
constructed.


The old, old fort, over which have
passed four centuries, has the Spanish
coat-of-arms still emblazoned above its
doors, and, with its moat and portcullis,
is quite stale preservation, and by the
gates still standing of the wall that once
surrounded the city, one is forcibly re-
minded of the war-like days of olden
times.