Year: 1877

middle Of the dancers, he was taken by many
at a distance for gilt garland" wrote Lord
Chesterfield to the Countess of Suffolk more
than hundred years ago, describing the
dress of young man of fashion at a grand
ball given in honor of his Majesty George H. Is
birthday In those days velvcts satins, rich
silks and rare laces were not monopolized by
my sex, nor were all the small vanities which
this generation considers peculiarly feminine
unshared by the masculine portion of the
world. Some of the stronger sex did not dis
dain the corset even, while the powder box
rouge saucer and pomade pot were found on
their dressing tables as commonly AS on those
of the ladies. The toilette of the beau of the
18th century was no slight matter, and il fair
ly rivalled in elegance that Of the belle. Pow
dered wigs, silk stockings low shoes with
buckles made from wrought gold and precious
stones silk or velvet knee breeches and coat
satin waistcoat, lace ruffics, and cooked hat
that was the young swell ms he came fresh
from the hands of the London Macullar, Viii
liams & Parker of 1854 Isn't he a contrast
to the beau of 1877 whom the Boston Macul-
lar, Williams a. Parker gets up" for festive
and other occasions He has ahiured satin
silk, velvet and lace, but he is none the less
finical over his broadcloths chevoits. melrons
cassimeres and kerseys; he no longer wears
scarlet, crimson, lavender, pale blue or any
other delicate, feminine shade, but he affects
browns, olives, navy blues, groys and dark
mixed effects, just the colorS ladies wear in
their walking costumes


He wears plain black for gala occasions
with the low cut vest and conventional swal-
low tailed coat, which has been the regula-
ton full dress costume ever since | can re-
member, and goodness knows for how many
years before. II is broadcloth rs a matter of
course, and he pays from 30 to - dollars for
it. The cloth may come from France on from
the west of England, the price paid is about
the same. Then comes the half dress suit
which is worn on occasions when the full
dress would be too elaborate and the busino IS
suit too informal this is generally made of
black material, either diagonal or plain cloth,
sometimes it is in olive or brown in the very
darkest colors. The materials used are Scotch
or German the two that lead this year are
the "Pontille" made by Wiese, and the IF. &
H." a line of castor cloth that is considered
specially nice. A frock coat is the thing in
suit of this kind, with vest which is cut rath-
er high and without collar; the pantaloons
may be of the same material, or they may be
of English cashmere in some subdued color,
and in pattern which shall suggest stripes.
The cost of Il suit of this description varies
from So to SO. He must have a business
suit AS well, this young nineteenth century
swell, for he does devote himself to something
besides rushing after new pleasures and fresh
diversions and am very much afraid Lord
Chesterfelds Adonis found that almost his
sole employment. There are such pretty
cloths for these same suits i'll Scotch Chevoits.
rough mixed goods, some Of which look not
unlike the GOurttteS that ladies are wearing for
costumes this season. There is a jauntiness
about business suit which like n sort of
unconventional, free and easy air, both i'll style
of making and manner of wearing there is
something informal and confidential in sack
coat whether it be the plain sack, which.
loosely fitting buttons down the length in
front, or the English walking coat, which
fastens with one button. and then is cut away
with rounded corners Suits like these cost
from ,s3j to $50.


You see l am telling tales out of school. and
all your lady friends are going to know just
how much it costs to fit you out, so that when
you exclaim at the prices they pay for gowns,
they may show a surprising knowledge of
what your tailor charges you, for prices are
about the same in Boston as in your own
town.


There can be but little variation in the styles
of making, an added inch or so to the length
of the coat, or difference in trimming them. Il
change in the fit of the pantaloon, and that's
about the extent of it, This year pantaloons
are full in the leg and almost straight they
are made, when apart from the suit, in some
fancy cashmere, and cost from 81 to SIS. ac-
cording to the material used. whether it is
American, French or English the latter is
considered the incest and wears the most
handsomely.


In overcoats. as far rs material goes, the
gentlemen have almost as much variety to
lect from as the ladies have for cloaks incest
and most stylish of all are the West of Eng
land Kerseys heavy cloth with n surface as
soft and smoothly finished as broadclOth. 1t
comes in all the leading shades, black, bronze,
olive, brown and dark blue, and for very ex-
quisite beaux, light drab and gray. The coats
are cut in q loose sack shape, double-breasted
and buttoued with horn buttons, some Of
which are finished so finely as to resemble
tortoise shell for the light coats, smoked
pearl buttons are considered the most elegant.
These coats are lined either with satin, diago-
nal serge lasting, or French plaid wOolen
goods, which is very handsome and bright, as
well as light and warm they are finished on
the edge with three or four rows of stitching,
in place of the wide bindings which have been
in vogue. If binding is used, it is very mar
row, little more than cord, with rows of
stitching below it, The cost of II coat of this
kind is from S4j to 500. Pilot cloths cost
about So. A very warm overcoat, which is
very light, is made from the Shetland goods,
which come in black, gray and mixed effects
with plaid backs this does away with the ne
cessity of lining. and makes the garment
especially well adapted to travelling purposes;


its cost is $40 Scotch chinchilla and velours
make very handsome coats which cost from
$40 to $50. These prices obtain of course in
custom made clothing; ready made goods cost
less Overcoats made from Chevoits and
Scotch Elysian cost from SIG to $40. listers,
which are still used by persons much exposed
to the weather, cost from $50 to $40, They
can be bought for less, but not in quality of
| cloth that wears well or handsomely. The
best economy in buying clothing is to pay
little more in the beginning; you pay less in
the end and are better satisfied. There is
consciousness in being well dressed which
gives more intense satisfaction than almost