Year: 1874

against Estela. and perhaps a real attack. Since
the battle OF Aberzu1i there has been no fighting
OF any consequence, but both parties have been
preparing Tor the conflict, and for the last few
days we have been pectlng an attack upon Es-
tea every moment. The republican forces, CON-
petely demoralized after that battle, have re-
gained some OF their former discipline. The posi-
tons have been strengthened and the army rem
forced until 1t reached the numoer oi
almost $4,000 mon. The Carlist army on
the contrary. although really increased
In the aggregate nsd not been augmented on the
line round Estella and now some OF the forces tnat
were there all along were Withdrawn for the siege
OF Irun. Under these circumstances decided TO
remain TWO or three days in Estella to see II the
long expected battle would take place.


THE KING


let the capital on the 30th OF October and told me
before starting that he would go by easy marches
10 Toloso accompanied by General Ello, Minister
OF War; and that the siege OF Irun would PROBABLY
be commenced in earnest IN four or five days. /,
therefore, waited until the 4th OF November, IN
anticipation OF the attack. The most perfect tran
quilty reigned along the line, and on the "a We
even received news that q number OF troops
had been detached from the left OF Lo-
groho TO reinforce the garrison at Irun.
These troops were to De sent to



place. The day left Estella was the Kings .Jste
day The town was merry with the ringing OF
bells and the display OF nags colors and stan
dards ana nearly everybody went to church 10
Celebrate the festival. Even my landlords
wlneskin maker and q very Industrious, thrifty
man-had shut up his shop, which was on the
first noor to go to mass with his wife and daugh.
ter and as passed through the DARK room on
leaving the house the headless infated skins OF
hogs and goats, with their stumpy legs, seemed.
in the obscurIty. like the ghosts OF these animals
that must have drunk themselves to death.


SCENES ON THE LINE OF ROUTE.


rhe nrst afternoons ride brought me to
Ectourri within kilometre or two OF Pampe-
luna, where passed the night. 1t was the end or
the vintage season. The grapes, the great harvest
OF Navarro. had been nearly all gathered, but the
purple bunches In many OF the vineyards sun cov-
cred the ground. The Indian corn was yet stand
ing ungarhered IN the fields, and this. with the
brown purple lnts Of the vineyards and the yell
low corn, gave the whole country those peculiar
dark brown ana golden tlnts characteristic OF
Spain. 1t would be easy to guess that Murillo was
and his pictures, with their harmonious shades OF
tawny brown and golden yellow blending into
each other, are as natural o production OF Spain
as are her corn and wine. l followed the high
road to within mile OF Pampeluna, where, from
q low mill, looked down upon the city, above
which rose the two great towers OF San Jose, and
could distinctly see the sentinel at the gate
OF the town. more intimate acquaintance
with the republicans was undesirable, more Sc
pecally as wore my ootna with the chaDa OF
G. VII, and therefore struck through the fields to
make circuit OF the town. A ride Of a mile and
o half brought me to the highroad leading from
Plmpeluna to Bayonne. and crossing the Bastan
Mountains the same day descended into the val
ley OF the Bidassoa and stopped for the night IN
Dice little fonda about a mile from San Esteban.
Here was told that the King-we all call him the
King here-had been Tor the last two days at San
EsteDan, but that the same day be had moved on
to Vera with all his suite. Here l also learned
for the first time that the siege OF Irun had been
really commenced, but could near nothing about
the result. four hours easy gallop in the morn
Ing down the beautiful valley OF the Bidassoa
brought me to Vera, wvere found the King.


THE ROYAL HEADQUARTERS.


The streets we're full OF people. horses and bag
gage wagons, loaded with rations. The officers Of
the Kings stat we're mounting their horses and
getting ready for the start. had only arrived a
lew moments when the King appeared and walked
through the 81 eets OF the little town, receiving
the acclamations and homage OF the people. They
formed in line on each side OF he street as he
passed and loudly cheered him. Some advanced
forward and klssed his hand, others kuelt down
before him In the street and asked for his bless
ing which he always accorded by laugningly plac-
ing his hand upon their heads. He shook hands
with some and bowed to others, smiled TO all, and
then, on reaching the end OF the village, he
mounted his white horse and started down the
road toward Irun, followed by US ALL amid the
cheers OF the wnoe population. Don Carlos
is something like the alligator, inasmuch
as he is very awkward upon land and
has a most ungracetul gait. On horseback, how
ever he Is perfectly at home. When walking he
has most ungainly stride, which makes him look
Ike an overgrown schoolboy, but on horseback he
has certainly most graceful presence. With
his dark. piercing eyes, his heavy black beard,
req BONA with It's golden tassel and a req scarf
round his waist mounted upon hts large white
horse, he must have appeared to the people or
Vera the very personifcation OF royalty and
power. IL was bright and beautiful morning and
q Slight blue mist hung over the mount aims giving
the country that dreamy appearance OF the Indian
summer and softening the outlines Of the narrow
rocky dell through which the Bldassoa here
rushes AS we proceeded the she pherds came
down from the mountains in little Knots OF five and
SIX and assembled by the roadside to greet



''Godspeed" In his enterprise. 1t was evident
that they were all looking forward to the taking
Of Irun as an event OF paramount importance.


THE STAFF.


On the star OF the King were the brother OF the
ex King OF Naples and the son OF the Duke de
Parma brother OF Dona Marguerite and brother
IN law OF Don carlos, both very young men. When
we reached the point where the French territory
begins we saw on the other side OF the river the
French douanters, or custom house guards, at
post OF observation. AS we advanced they ad-
vanced also, separated from us only by the river.
which at this point IS only few yards wide and
we might have kept up conversation with them
most OF the way had we been 30 inclined. No
word was EXCHANGED between u.s. however, and
we simply contented ourselves BY watching them
through our 1eid glasses In way which they may
have considered Impairment We were Gil very
gay, and many were the jokes which we
cracked as the expense OF the do,Adnters who
were obliged very often 10 march at more than
doube-quick to keep up with us. This Is the first
time Don Carlos mas been 30 near the frontier
since he entered Spain. and / thought he cast