Year: 1874

only see tnat ~ Is large oulidlng somewhat re-
semoling barn, while our passports are being
examined tthe diligence is full, and holds sixteen
persons) and our baggage searched py the light OF
lanterns The whole business is done with
the greatest order and regularity, and with less
unnecessary tumbling about OF things than wouia
be the case In a French custom house, and IN a
lew minutes We have resumed our places ana the
diligence goes rumbling forward once more. iue
parties OF whom have spoken as oeihg '"'rs'',
probably wishing to retire to rest, no" proposeu
an armisIice. which | was only TOO reauy W
accept ,ew moments later fell into state OF
unconsciousness from which was aroused u uno
the diligence had stopped at Ehzohdo anu 'haI ~
was broad daylight. Ehzondo is small town
situated in the valley OF the bidassoa Ht''e
river that further down, near its mouth, forms
the lronter between France and Spain and IS
famous for being the scene OF many battles be-
tween the English, French and spanish during the
wars or Napoleon


We are now within the dominons OF Carlos VII,
and look about me 70 see what signs can dis
cover OF his rule. The only visible ones are half
dozen soldiers loungIng about the streets. The
uniform OF these soldiers does not present
that uniformity OF appearance which the
word would seem TO imply, and which is
SO pleasing to the eyes Of military men. On
the contrary, 1t Is rather remarkable for Its





OF the different parts OF which 1t is composed.
Some OF the soldiers have no shoes, some no coats
and others are apparently without pantaoons.
But you must not be deceived by this absence or
some OF the distinctive marks OF the soldier,
ana suppose that they are, therefore, not very
formidable. In the first place, although they do
not wear them now they all have shoes, carefully
put away for the cold weather. Besides, neither
the Carsts nor their adversaries wear shoes,
properly speaking, in the summer.


Instead they have light kind OF sandal, made
OF coarse linen cloth, with hempen rope sewed
together to form the sole which, besides only
costing ten sous is the iightest and easiest thing
for marching ever invented.


The only uniformity to be observed about the
Carist uniform here was the red cap, or BONA, OF
the Basque mountalneers, . red stripe down the
trousers, the never failing cartridge box and the
Remington rine- uniformity enough for lighting
purposes. Don Carlos does not squander his
money IN snowy uniforms, but expends 1t care
fully on the best arms and ammunition to be pur-
chased, and his soldiers fight the worse nor
are none the less amenaole to discipline lor the
freedom allowed in the way Of clothes.


Alter o light breakfast OF eggs and chocolate,
obtained in the one little fonda of the place, we
were again on the way. The road leads for a
while up the pretty little valley OF tributary OF
the Bidassoa. which II soon becomes evident Is
going TO take Us high up into another range OF
mountains that lies before US. BY nine O'CLOCK we
are again winding up, corkscrew fashion, through
little dells and holows, dark and cool, shaded by
chestnut trees, where the murmur Of mountain
streams that come piunging down the defles Is
only varied by the musical catter OF an occasional
mill. II does not look much like war; but
here AMI there along the road stand the
walls OF ruined house, with charred timbers
1utnfr
place between the republican troops and the Car


lists before the country was completely occupied
by the latter. We ascend higher and higher, and
at last reach the summit OF the range and soon
behold, rising dim and smoky in the distance, far
beyond the Ebro, The noun tains OF Old CASTLE.


Down the crooked, tortuous road we roll at a
swinging gallop, and In another hour have reached
the loot OF the descent where emerges little val
ley from among the noun tans.


Here Is large kind OF farmhouse or grange,
before which the diligence hats, aud am some
what surprised to learn that 1t Is the place called
Venta d'Arres, where am TO get out.


l accordingly climb down. my travelling bag
is pitched out to me, the diligence whlrls away
and am lett alone by the roadside.


Ny reason Tor stopping az Venta d'Arres Was
this:-It would be impossible TO pass through
PaHpeluna on my way to Estella without papers
from the Madrid authorities. But as 1t is my in
tention to follow the operations Of the Carlist
army, and as going about with TWO kinds OF pass
ports Is if anything trlne more dangerous than
going about without any, fatal as this plan was IN
the case OF Captain Schmidt, 1t was necessary TO
keep within the Carlist lines. l would, therefore,
have to make a detour through the mountains
around Pampeluna and strike the ROAD to Estera on
the other side. venta d'Arres was the best point
from which to start on this de.our, but had sup
posed IL was o town or village at least, and was
somewhat taken aback to find 1t was only iarm.
house, a very large stone building 1t Is true. No.
body came out to invite me IN or carry my travel
ling bag, and l began to lear 1t was
all a mistake. / determined to walk IN, however
and see If there was anybody about. did SO, and
found myself in the society OF a number OF mules
donxeys and horses that were quietly muncning
their nay. Not human beng to be seen |
walked up stairs by broad, rough, heavy wooden
stairway broad enough and strong enough for
coach-andlour to have driven up, and found my.
self in the dwelling of the family. There was
long, broad corridor here, on each side of which
were disposed a number OF rooms The floor was
OF rough panks; the ceiling and partitions OF the
same material, and the whole had tnat ricn black
brown color which can only be given TO o house,
as TO a meerschaum pipe, by long years OF
smoking.


pushed open the first door came to and looked
/ In. Tne room saw was 50 DIack and smoky that
it would nave been impossible 90 distinguish any.
thing but for large fire that was burning right in
the middle OF the door. There not the slight.
est sign OF a chimney to be seen, and l at first
started back, supposing had discovered case of
incipient incendlarism. was instantly reassured,
however by seeing number OF people sitting on


benches disposed around the walls watching
large pot and trying pan or two That were on the
fire with great deal OF interest l had just had
time to take this all in at glance when large


powerful woman came forth out OF the obscurity
! in corner with large, sinister looking
carving knife In her hand. She DID


not attack me, however but simply in
vited me to come In and sit down,


adding that dinner would be ready IN lew
inmates. / accordingly went in and sat down


along with the Others, and began to take an In