Year: 1879

silks are the trimmings; for cotton goods the
pleatngs are of the same fabric, though often
plain instead of figured, and border woven in
the pattern is the trimming for the overskirt
and basque. Sesa Innings are necessary for
wool and silk basques made by these patterns.
but cotton goods are apt to shrink in washing,
and should not be lined.


The Louis Quatorze basque is of very simple
shape, with the front pointed as a vest. A
different pattern may be used for the vest, and
the edge bordered, but if the entire suit Is Of
one piece of goods, the vest Is merely outlined
by the border. and the effect is quite as pretty.
The Partisan fashion of cutting the neck
pointed in front in shape is adopted in this
basque, aud the pretty Breton lace frills aud
the Louie XIV. cravats of white muslin will be
worn with such dresses. When expensive ma.
tsrials are used the overskirt is permanently
arranged on a lower skirt, which is concealed
by it, and Is therefore Of less expensive silk, or
perhaps silesia. Pereale or gngham suits have
each part OF the dress separate in order that 1.
may be easily washed


The slashed basque has the long side bodies
Of the back beginning in the shoulder seams:
many ladies are loath to relinquish these long
shspely seams, as they make short waist ap-
pear longer. and are also becoming to stout fig
ures. The seam down the middle of the back
is dispensed with, according to fashion intro
duced late in the winter in Partisan dresses aud
wraps. The slashing below the waist allows
the fu9 back OF the overskirt to escape without
being fastened, and is easier ironed than IL IL
were pleated in position fashion. A novelty
for overskirrs is flowing folds in a single Wat.
fQQn nix fha frQn IA
Overskirts for wash dresses have as few cores
ss possible, as bias seams do not wash as well
as straight ones. II the fabric is not wide


enough, it is best to join the selvedges together,
and thus make firm straight seams.
The double-breasted coat is one of the best
designs for woolen suits prepared for early
spring use. The coat is of a jaunty shape that
is suitable for the street without any other
wrap-a thing to be considered In making
spring costumes


To trim the tower skirts of suits one or two
fiounces are used; they are cut straight, from
selveoge 10 selvedge, are hemmed on each edge
oy machine, and are laid in inch-wide side
pieats. When finished the hounce Is stitched
on the skirt an inch or more below the upper
edge, to give 1t standing heading This il
not new, but 1t is the accepted trimming AZ
present for plain skirts. The foupces are
Lnerely meant as border to the lower skirt.
yet they are usually deep enough to CONCEAL all
that part of the lower skirt not hidden By the
over-skirt.


The large furnishing houses are preparing
tasteful suits for the spring Of plain gros grain
trimmed with striped satin aud moire of the
same shade Black suits Of tbess materials are
10 the greatest number, but there are also blue
grsys, moss green, and drab silk suits made in
tne same way. Two leading styles prevail in
Mir ehA lit
round skirt on which the over.skirt is perma-
Dently drsped, and the second suit which has
I the princess back, while the front has basque
and over-skirt. The latter is very dressy, aud
| asked eafly hints for making black silk short
suits. The short ron nd narrow skirt Ia merely
foundation, and for this is used cheap black
silk, such as is sold for ST. a yard. The princess
back is OF handsome black gros grain, and is
| cut with middle seam and wide short side
forms, beginning IN the armboles. Low down
IN the middle seam some pleated fullness Is
| added, and this furnishes two straight breadths
| that are boufantly draped in the back
| upon the foundation skirt, and are long enough
| to CONCEAL the lightweight silk used for this
foundation. The front of the waist is a plain
stngle.bressted basque piped on the edge with
striped satin and MORE, aud trimmed with
reverse of striped satin. The front breadths Of
the skirt have curtain over-skirt draped upon
them, and sewed there permanently The
over-skirt is bordered with Q straight piece of





watered stripes with one of satin between.
The space low In front left bare from the knee
down is covered with tox pleats of silk with


striped satin between; this is very deep where
l the curtain front parts aud dscloses it, bnt Is
| sloped away at the sides, and forms q narrow
| hounce behind. The drapery of the back is
piPed on the lower edges and the sides, and is


held close to the sides BY large long-looped
bows of the striped satin. The coat sleeves
| have plain cuff of striped satin.


Other suits of he same kinds of silk have
habit basques that are quite broad and square
in the back, and are ornamented by having q
very closely rleated face of watered satin put
IN the lower part of the three seams The
short skirt has founce made In the new way,
Of plain straight silk, eight inches deep, laid at
intervals IN scant side pleats, in each of which
s seWeo ian TO match the fans 10 the BASQUE.
The oyer-skirt trims the lover, skirt by being
draped across like an apron in fro1t, with
straight panels of watered satin down the sides.
Other over-skirts have two apron drsperies
with striped scarfs sewed lengthwise upon
them, and q striped end introduced In the
bOuffant back breadths.


In rem0delling silk or wooden suits of last sea-
son the short pointed revers collar meeting at
tbe top Of the darts will be much used This


will be made of plain satin, or else with moire
stripes. Another plan will be a striped satin
collar that extends down each side of the front


10 the end of the basque, as If outlining a vest.
Large long-lo0ped bows that form a jAbot


partly down each side will be made of striped
satin and used on oversklrts. When the back


drapery Is not sufficiently bouffant, a width
of the trimming material will be added on one


side, or else In the middle. and bunchsd up
irregularly. great deal of lengthwise trim
ming will be used on the front and sides Of
over-sknts. A curtain over-skirt may have


the front breadths opening from the waist line,


carried away to the sides, and edged with


fringe: this is handsome when made of plain


silk, while the front gore of the lower skirt


which is shown its whole lengths of striped


moire.





Chuddah or of plain camers s-hair trimmed with
rich fringes. Black NANTES will be most used,


though light drab or bsige-colored wraps will
be considered more dressy. The shapes are
very similar to those of last season, with the
back fitted by three seams, and clingliug sides
that drap the arm, and are finished IN square
Hungarian fashion. instead of dropping In
pointed wings like Dolmans. These mantles
are OF medium length, covering the tournure
and hips, and are trimmed with one or with
three braided points down the back and on the
sides. A great deal Of imitation lace in French
thread patterns will be used for trimming these
fine wool wraps. Merchants also predict the


use of beads again, but il is TOO early TO speak
positively OF the new garnitures. Goats of soft
light cloth will be used for spring sacques and
for cool mornings out Of town. Stitched edges
and snowy buttons will be the only trimmings
for these. Gray tweeds and twill be chosen for
jackets


For travelling and steamer cloaks SINGLE


breasted listers are shown in the English


uomeepuu CLotuS tuab are IOOSoly Wufou lu


small checks Of yellow-brown shadss and in


heather grays. The belt for these is confined


to the back and is very wide Circular wraps
OF light gray cloth, black, brown, and navy
blue are also shown for travelling. They are
made with long pointed hood, aud have a
snowy clasp OF oxidzed silver at the throat
The small fichus of embroidered black CASH
mere worn last spring are again largely i'm
ported.


Hotel Beats.