Year: 1878




tian darkness, searched for the north shore
boat, expecting each moment to be my last,
and wondering what kind of an item might
possibly make, I, at length, found myself on
the gang-plank of the Manistee. The morn
ing broke bright and beautiful, the water
as the vessel


Walked the waters like thing of life.''


The air was balmy and sweet as spring.
Passing the Red Cliff Indian agency, we
reached Bayfield, at noon. OF the inhabit-
ants, it may be said, ''when they are not fish
ing, they are mending their nets" Fishing
is their chief, I may say, only industry. The
town has '|scaly'' look. Opposite and to
the east, we make the little town of La
on the lake. In the little French Catholic
church is genuine Michael Angelo, depos-
tied there years ago by some of the earlier
priests. The subject of the painting did
not learn. Ashland, the northern terminus
of the Wisconsin Central railway, is our
next stop-a dull, dark town.. with back
ground of scrubby pine. Leaving her. the
night air becomes much colder, storm
of snow, sleet and hail sets in. At A. NJ.
of the following morning, we are at Ontan-
agon. Icrawled out of my bed long enough
to get glimpse of tho town. Owing to the
early hour and the storm, it was too dark to
see much: but nothing was lost I imagine.
The towns, as rule, seem to be as homely
as the lake is beautiful, SO getting back in
my bunk again, I doze away once more,
1.-The world forgetting, by the world forgot


Were you ever sea sick? Beecher says,
the first hour he was so sick he feared he
would die; the second, his fear was he might
live indefinitely, and so prolong his intense
suferings." If there is anything to recon-
cile one to death, it is a severe attack of sea
sickness. The lake was very rough, and the
storm severe, and every one was quite sea
sick. For some reason they all seemed
ashamed of it. One gentleman explained
to me, between each vain endeavor to throw
up his boots as he leaned over the railing,
The need not vonit unless he wanted to-"
That man must have a curious idea Of
amusement, for, as voluntary act, it was
done with Il great deal of expression. At
dinner time 1--WE had very light attendance
by the way) we arrived at the entrance of tho
Lake Superior ship canal. Passing through
this for about two miles, we reach Portage
lake, on either side of which are the two
towns of Houghton and Hancock. Here are
situated the celebrated Lake Superior copper
mines. will not infict long statement
of their statistics on you, but simply say the
principal mines are the Calumet and Hecla,
and are worked with much success and
profit. Large stamp mills and smelling
works line either shore, and give the towns q
business like appearance. Having plenty of
time I walked around the town and found an
evidence of Minneapolis enterprise in the
hotels and on the boat, in printed circular
enclosed in q neat frame, giving the principal
points of interest and the industries of that
busy town. Also stating they manufactured
ten thousand (?) barrels of -four per day.
st. Paul might advertise herself with benefit
the same way, think. She could uso alocal
envelope similar to the one she is now using
for the general benefit of the State.


Passing through the ship canal again we
are weather bound for the best part of the
day at the canal lighthouse, owing to the
dense fog and heavy sea. Later in the day
as we steam out into the lake against q
strong headwind and into the fog, the wild
and barren shores of the lake, the high,
white crested waves chasing each other in
regular succession, the swift flying gulls all
combine to make sight long to be remem-
bered, and much beyond my feeble pen to
do justice to. Bearing off to the south and
east, we fall in the trough of the sea; the
good ship rolls and groans in every joint,
and as she ploughs her way through the blue
waters of the lake, all thoughts Of the beau
tiful is quickly dispelled by tho frs: return
ing pangs of sea-sickness.


At about sunset we are landed at Eagle
Harbor, the fog has risen and the sky is
clear. Still the sea runs high, dashing mad
ly over the natural breakwater of the bay in
creamy waves, that contrast beautifully with
the deep blue water of the lake. From
Eagle Harbor, we head for Isle Royale and
Prince Arthur's Landing, on the north
shore, the latter place being the terminal
point of my journey, and the Canadian Pa
cific railway, which we reach at 4. n. of
Saturday. Glad am once more to get on
shore, having been from Tuesday night un-
til Saturday, in reaching my destination.
part with the officers and the boat with great
regret, as they seem tho connecting link be-
tween mo and home. In parting, l can not
refrain from adding my testimony to that of
many others, of the sea going qualities of
the good ship Mapistee, and her genial,
obliging, and gentlemanly. officers, the per-
feet type Of gentlemen and sailors. ''May
their shadow never grow less" More anon.
G. L.