Year: 1874




A SURPRISING PANoRAMA-THINGvALIA AND THE


GEYsERs-THE KING GAINING IN POPULARITY


IrRoM REGULAR CORRESPONDENT OF THE TRrBuNE.l


REJKIAvIK, Aug IL can scarcely continue 10
give coherent record of events, for in place SO
remote and original in its character, everything
that happens seems to bear certain stamp
of interest II you step on blossom, IL may
be an arctic plant, unknown elsewhere; II
bird flies overhead it is probably an elder duck II
a boy speaks in the street. he may use words MADE
venerable in the Eddas of Saemund and Snorre SUR
lusson Isolation separate development, prevalence
of elements that have perished in other lands make
Iceland study by itself. Scarcely anything nave
learned in former travel even in Sweden anu
Norway explains the features of life here. Anchoreu
in the middle of the Northern Ocean, between two
continents, the island belongs but very slightly 10
either But the simplest form of marathon after ALL
Is the truest 4nd know no better plan than to give
the events and impressions OF our DAYS Id the
exact order in which they come to us. Yesterday
for instance furnished us with different Stock
and inasmuch as there is no further public cere-
mony until Sunday, we let ourselves comforlapy
drift along the current of chances, appropratng no
hour in advance.


The sweep of mountain shores inclosng the
northern extremity of the Faxa Fiord, and the IN
land ranges have been gradually growing INTO form
ARRIVAL, ana almost every Houi piipSo ''N
some unexpected feature. To-day, the panorama Is
surprising Sixty-fve miles to the west, floating on
the sea like an iceberg, shines the anbroKeh
white mass of the Snaefells J0ku Northward OF
him the land disappears, to emerge again III sharp
blue peaks which are overlapped by higher ana
nearer promoDtories until across the last pgh. vi
the ford, the bare mountains show every guley
and ravne, every streak of snow, patch OF
pale green herbage or purple volcanic rock Sun
and shadow ever in motion over their sides, make
continual and exquisite changes of color Inland,
there is the greatest variety of outline, from tue
turfy shores to the horns, peaks and Tampart-like
ridges in the distance. The air is wonderfully clear
so that the tints of the great panorama-which mas
sweep of over hundred miles-2rc marked by
the greates pGsssinle deIcacy and purity. Without
Being deep and glowing, in the South they pro-
duce almost the same effect, and there are moments
when one can only think of the Mediterranean and
the Grecian Archipelago


We spent yesterday morning on shore. The sailors
filed our water casks at the town pump. some OF
the party bought eder-down or photographs, Others
paid further visits of ceremony. Capt. lowing,
proposing TO take stones from the nearest harbor
island as ballast was quite taken aback by the re-
fusa of the proprietor to allow any portion OF hls
volcanic real estate to be carried away The reason
given was that the island wOnld be gradually dl-
minished in size, and furnish so much the less
brooding ground for e1der ducks These selfsacri-
fcing birds make their nests almost in the outskirts
of Rejkiavik. They are protected by law, and show
no fear of men.


Iealled upon the French Consul and his family
and the Chief-Justce of Iceland finding as every
where else, intelligence, refinement and most
kindly hOsntaity. The young ladies spoke Eli
ylish and French with huency. The long Winter,
during which no steamer comes from Denmark and
the rest of the world, has practical existence Tor
them, is devoted to reading and study, and they
thus fully keep pace with their sisters In other
lands.


I'm the afternoon the Captain proposed boat eX-
cursion to hot spring the shore mile or two
from the town, and three Of us joined him. On the
way we called on the German frgate Nj
ODE to whose first officer, Capt-Lieut. Won
Scbr0der / lad been commended by his
friends in Erfurt and Gotha. The vessel of stanch
old English build, is used trainingship for
cadets, Of whom there at present 30 on board
Our reception by all the officers was so hearty that
il could only terminate in mutual invitations TO lunch
and dinner. Officers of the army are pIoverblally
strictly national officers Of the navy cosmopolitan
but should be glad if gentlemen Of the latter
estate were able to speak to visitors, in foreign
port in their own language as every one of these
was and to discuss literature and act as eagerly and
lnteugently as old traditions of the service


We pushed off at last. hoisted sail, and swiftly
ran along the coast seeking for che embOuchJre of
river which is fed from the hot springs. The wind
enabled us TO skirt the rough basaltic shore closely
without much danger of stavng in the bottom of our
little craft but We failed to detect the exact point.
There was twO-story house of stone on broad
headland several boys ponies came dashing
down the green slope behind it, and group of chill
dren at little cove seemed to watch our move


81. l.. IL fatn
that they were beacons to the entrance of
the hot river Our only profit from the
trip was the sight of enormous seal
it could hardly have been less than 12 feet
in leugth-whieh every now and then popped up its
huge. stupid head behind us. After dance of
nearly two hours over the rough waves, we wer
glad TO return and leave the hot springs from whic
Reikiavk the smoking OF steamng harbor is said
10 derive its name.


Our visits on shore have been continued to-day
They are always agreeable, but s. much alike in
form of reception, heartiness of welcome, and
the material features of the residences that it is
scarcely necessary to describe them in succession.
The best houses in the town are very much
alike in structure and internal arrangement. There
is usually little hall or ante-room, about large
enough TO pull off an overcoat in then the study or
reception-room of the owner according to bis pro-
fesson. and beyond it the salon where the ladies
receive their guests. White curtains pots of flowers
in the windows, carpet the fo3r, q sofa center
table with books and photographs, and pictures
on the walls are the invarable features Of
this apartment; and in spite of the low
ness of the ceiling and other primitive
architectural characteristics, it is always
cheerful, bright. aud agreeable Rocking chairs are
not uncommon, and the guest easily forgets both
latitude and locality as he looks out upon currant-
and