Year: 1879




frank II. Taylor, in Harper's Magazine for April


He is wise who adapts himself al
once to the leisurely modes of the ma
tives. This fervid climate will not be
trifed with. Rise at 6. The early
morning is delicious. Take only cup
Of coffee and hard biscuit, and start
out for walk to one of the many
churches whose discordant chimes ring
out noisy welcome. Then visit the
markets. That upon the Campo del
Mario is the most picturesque. Here
all the products of this fruity isle hang
In masses of rich confusion.


Close by the battery at the end of the
Prado q peculiar and exciting scene may
be witnessed every morning. Here the
surf rolls up with free stride against the
shore. Just where little bay is formed
In the coral rock several hundreds of
horses are undergoing an inspiriting
sea-bath, or awaiting their turn in long
lines, tied head and tail, upon the shore.
Without this refreshing process the
horses soon droop under the climate.
and even with it they are all sleepy'dnd
sad. Perhaps it is partly owing to the
preposterous style of harness in use.


At or 10 o'clock breakfast is to be
eaten, beginning with fruits. Then
ride until midday. Your guide will go
TO sleep while he talks. Somnolence is
the normal condition of everybody in
waiting. Take the hint and indulge in
siesta until about 3. Then, if man,
you may smoke the soothing cigarette
until dinner, which must be conducted
in leisurely style, cheap red wines
taking prominent place.


Business hours with merchants cease
by general custom at an early hour.
After o'clock in the afternoon the
Prado and avenues leading toward the
Cerro present the gay effects we North
men ascribe to festive occasions only.
Our country-women may be distin
guished in the throng by their hats.
The Cuban ladies disdain the use of
further ornament for the head than that
afforded by an elaborate coiffure. Their
forms are swathed in light muslins, and
many are seen wearing the lace scarf of
CASTLE pendent from masses of dark
hair knotted at the back of the head.
The real social life of Havana is best re-
vealed, however, after dark. Then a
motley throng surges through the can
opied streets toward the cafes, the the
aters. and the public squares, where
splendid military bands discourse stir
ring, and, to us, novel Spanish music.
In the brilliantly lighted cafes one
must wait often for a vacated chair.
Stupendous and strange-looking bibular
compounds are placed before the drink
ers.


The leading theater, as all the world
has heard, is the "Tacon," the auditori-
um being not unlike those of many of |
our American play-houses. 1t is very
large, having three galleries. The play
being conducted with rapid movement
upon the occasion of our only visit, our
limited stock of Spanish proved made
quate to the duty of criticism.


An odd custom prevails at another
theater of the vaudeville stripe. The
writer was one of the determined quar-
tette which held it's own with crowd
in front of wicket for half an hour or
more. Having purchased the requisite |
tickets, we were compelled to breast the
outflow of humanity coming down the
narrow stairway at the end of the first |
act. Having gained our box, we were
permitted to enjoy single act of
farce, in which the leading dr'amatis
persOnR were superactive soldier in |
very red and baggy pantaloons and an
irate matron of muscular tendencies. |
This act lasted twenty minutes. The
fate of the heroine remains shrouded in |
mystery, for we shortly discovered that
our term of lease had expired, and our
box was wanted for another party. We |
should have gone down to the ticket !
Office and engaged our places anew for
the ensuing act