Year: 1877




never the opportunities better tor those VINO
have the wit and wisdom 10 avail themselves OF them
for dressing in good style at small expense.


There was . time when ladies did not consider them-
solves dressed street unless the costume was
All gik and lace II might be thin and imsey and In
snectiva, but it must be silk Now woollen Is not
pnly considered better for the street, but u Is
known TO be artistic, carrying tho light and hold
ing the shade and blending itself much more happily
70 the laying OF folds fall OF drapcry than thin
tatrcta stf gros grain.


Tue revolution OF ideas was however, accomplished
very gradually first; fine cashmere, which we were
80 slow 70 appreciate, must be combined with SIX or
the silk with velvet IL seemed impossible that
mere dress OF wool could by any roak Of fashion
b considered light Of 'dress' At all, and oven
now there women who will spoil charming dress
Of son wool by adding trimming Of cheap silk,
which OF in very short space OF tme leaving
the edges ragged and the whole toilet shabby before
tho body part OF II Is at all worn.


There Is wide difference between the dress Of the
street and the indoor. and especially evoning
sume the long coat seevo, the high clese bodice,
usually crossed tho SIDE, IL 10.
dspensabis for street day wear essential as tho
dark color In tho fabric OF which the dress is
posed. But for the evening there abundant latitude
Tho half sleeve, with delicate rues the open bodice,
eco trimmed; the light gauze fabrics, damask Or
striped, with varegated chenles and used as drapory
ever lovely shimmerns silks and satns form an en-
pe6te different possible from tho dark and ser
vieoabio character OF tho promenade attire.


COMBINATIONS


For street the leading color q dark shade OF
green, which shows . tingc Of yellow when held to the
lishI. 1t Is sometimes called "moss" green, and In
the tuftcd and knoued fabrics Is combined with
lines and dots OF silk, shot In dashes Of yellow,
cardinal rcd, blue, white or lighter green


Seal brown and navy biue hold their own, but both
have beon long we'll that Q change is very
welcome; and this beautiful dark grccn universally
becoming and contrasts admirably with tho rich
shades OF crimson tho more delicate ivory and
IeuL 1t is already in the market, and before
the end OF this month"; merchants say there viii not
be, In all probability yardof moss green 70 be OBJ
tained iiothe largest stores.


Tho ..snow lake" cloths arc fashionable ever,
and very pretty made over silk or velvot These
goods IN brown very Effective the delicate fakes
show 10 fne advantage tho darker shades OF this
COLOR polonase Of this material q skirt Of silk
or velvet, with mountngs Of the solid material and
hat match-lho white effect in tho trimming being
obtained by intermixturo OF white and brown
feather psno prottier style FOR an inexpensive win-
ter costume be Imagined


A great desderatum seems to be TO produce vivid
effects with light background Tor tho evening, and
dark black the full glare OF day. This In
accordance with the true principles art and, united
With present beauty of form In design, hard
fail to realize tho especially beautiful and becoming
costume.


STREET TOILETS.


Each succeeding fashion is apt 10 appear the best
but elegance OF the present street costumes
questionable. Tho pure and beautiful tone OF color
which both American and foreign manufacturers have
succeeded In making more soft, brilliant yet sub
dued, than any that have been seen heretofore


chestnut brown gros grain promenade costume has
. demLtrain SKIRT very simply made. Thcro
ornament OF silk ono side, taking the place Of
pocket made OF standing paits Of silk which
versed and held 10 place across the middle with band
OF silk pped with ivory silk ana thrco large pearl but
tons carved in bars. The plaits lined with tho
ivory silk The haone. closely fitting street basque
was comfortably hnod and made rather longer the
back the Sides the plastron front had contnu
parallel Of buttons, three IN row, TO the
cdge The sleeves were rather loose with haring cuffs
An elegant visiting dress OF myrtle green plain silk
and yeliowish green damasse, maue princess front
with tail basque back, trimmed with rovers OF
plain silk dotted with gold buttons. The back Of
the basque plain silk, and tho side forms OF the
other. widc facing Of plain silk on tho outer edge
OF tho train was also dotted rows OF buttons Tho
edge OF skirt and train trimmed with
Of knife plaitings cut In sharp points, The skirt
very cinging with four paits, overskirt being
merely simulated at the side. There largo,
square pocket


The revival OF satin as trimming shows TO advan-
tage In conjunction with delicate ivory and cream
iaille, and nothing be imagined moro lovely than
toilets Of thesc fabrics composed tho manner de-
scYibsd and garntursd with dark velvOt foliage For
combination Of light blue with satin large white
without foliage would be used, or white camolias
Thero two methods Of employing the rich armure
cotii~
plain Lyons velvet, tho other TO them for the
body part the princess dress and combine faio and
satin in the trimming.


GARMENTS.


Tho paIetot form is the favorite this season and
scems have superseded tho dolman, though such Is
not altogether the The dolman really suscept
tbie OF far elegant effects than the paetot and
will therefore always have It's pairons
The pactot forms favoritcs for tho new hand
some armuro and matelasse cloths and exactly
suited to these materiala Tho trimmings arc usually
wide silk brads or bands of heavy silk ornamentcd
with rows of stitching


The present styles require moro than ever before
that every dctai In the entire costume should be in
harmony II one departs from tho rule at all II must
be regard to little matters II should always DO
considered In the selection OF an outer garment.
Thus only poor taste and judgment would be cvinccd
by the choice OF a material in shade that will not
harmonisc with tho dresses to DO worn with IT, in
trimming garment to be used 'in common" with
rich laco garnituro suitable only Tor Gle.
CANT material carriage dress. This suggestion tor
shoss who can afford but ono independent wrap, and
10 will find II necessary to associate t with many
dresses and all occasions; for who indulge
In mere than one the hint is required.


''cARPgT" cLoTH


Circular wraps arc lashionably mado IN plaids and
shocks, but the new rag carpet" cloth, which is in
troduced for these garments, will become popular
cold weather advances Some OF these lined With
suk and others with dark opera flannel The trim
ming is fringe of wool, silk and WOOL matching the
cloth. Wnen made Of the plaid cloth black velvet
might be used as trimming


CLoAKs


The new winter cloak Will DC made long, though they
have moderated somewhat the extreme depth OF last
winter: yet forty 10 fifty inches sti affords good
average range, not excepting the fur lined circular