Year: 1879




tho advent of colder season. Among the first re-
quirements is garment for the street which shall
afford some warmth to the shoulders without being
deemed incumbrance. A fsvorito design for
black silk. and which may be also made in canels
hair cloth. is that of the 'viste manteet. pretty
combination OF the riste with the mantle which
IS very graceful and requires small amount OF
material OF fringe, too. but little is required and
therefore. rich quality can be afforded


The jacket seems to have become an integral part
of dress economy. Full suits in preparation
are usual accompanied by Jackets and Jackets OF
light and dark cloth. trimmed and untrimmed.
abound in all the shops where ready made garments
sold. There is q marked difference III the style
of jackets suite and what are called "indepen-
dent Jackets or what are made of cloth in light or
dark colors. Those which complete the dress show
some trimming to correspond with that of the Dress
The cloth Jackets are untrimmed. with stitch
ing and effective buttons of vegetable ivory, horn
shell or metal. Later in the season bor-
der of fur may be added, and, in fact
no more economical outdoor dress can be imagined
nor one more stylish and generally adaptable, than
q costume of plain cloth. consisting OF simple
well cut jacket and overskirt. worn over black or
brown silk skirt in the fall, without trimming. and
over a skirt velvet mounted through the winter.
with the addition OF bordering of grebe. fox, or
black martin. This is not fashion. 1t is only
one which is found very useful and convenient by
those who are obliged to utilize their forces and
make the one article answer many purposes.


The dolman shrunk in its dimensions during the
summer to those of cape or hchu. With the
tumn they have enlarged to those Of a medium
sized mantle but the cut is still close. the outlines
follow those Of the figure, and there is every evi
dence of intention to retain the simple and arts
tic style of modelling which has been steadily gain
ing ground for the past ten years.


AUTUMN FASHIONS


The new model is named the Evora polonaise, and
is tight fitting. with vest fitted by single dart in
each side, and outer fronts having the usual num-
ber OF darts in each side and chip darts taken out
under the arms 1t is bou6ant in design. and is
peciay appropriate for the handsome new brocade
silks which are brought forward among new fall
goods.


An exceedingly pretty basque is the "Claudini" It
is off the waist line in front, heightened grad
ua.ly at the sides. and the back describes q deep
position back in coat shape. ornamented with
the side cores and is fastened in front. 1t
is very simple. and particularly stylish.


Blouse effects will also be popular, and these
used retain the pretty shirring which has
been popular during the summer. One or the
newest suggestions a sn9wa sa Is hemDrands green
blouse basque made il this way. Few outside
pockets seen, but occasionally they made
quite effective as trimmings by beng cut in long
square cornered shape aud placed the edge OF the
basque, where they hang like bag.


Every variety OF plated skirt worn during the
The tavorte style for tall figures has three side
plated hounces covering the front breadths horizon
tally, while that liked by shorter ladies has the
Teiigieuse plating extending straight from belt to
foot down the front and Sides Few skirts are
plated all around i'll kilt fashion. yet very few
seen without being plated somewhere. The deep
square Roman apron covering the front and sides.
and the back finished by two, three or four plait-
ings will remain in favor.


Clusters OF plaits for bordering skirts will be
greatly used. When contrasting materials for the
trimming clusters of plaits or the gay trimming
viii alternate with others OF the plain material
chosen Tor the dress. Wide or narrow box plaits
according to fancy. will also be used Tabs aud
vers of striped satin like the trimming so popular
during the summer, are repeated on new French cos
TUNES.


is dark like myrtle green but with more blue in it.
Japonas green blue. aud the gendaxnlie blue
shade difficult to obtain last year viii be popular
i'll the new dress goods. as wen in millinery.
very artistic blue Is Douanier. Canaque.
golden brown. aud all the bronze shades.
with their olive green hues. will be worn
again. Prune and plum colors shown in great
variety. and beautiful plum brown the new
Burgoyne. Amaranth is new red with purple
shading that will be very popular with blondes. and
, aull scarlet, known as Pompean red, is becoming
to brunettes. Dark clives and dark wine colors
prominent i'll the new solid cloths and woollen
fabrics, well as in silks and velvets.


DRESS MATERIALS.



ing houses for early fall wear are in dark cloth
coiors i'll the new shades of green, prune golden
camels hair. cloth, cashmere and toe de sanglier-
new fabric that somewhat resembles bunting yet
has rough suracc and is made sufficiently heavy to
serve for warm winter dresses.


"A particularly handsome material in black or
wine color is velvet figured on satin foundation.
1t is for vests collars, cuffs and the like; price
IS per yard Small Scotch checks and all wool
plaids likely to be in popular demand this
season. and nothing is prettier tor school for
rlu s1arE
by felt hat with little Impeyan pheasants wing.
The fashionable corduroy is simply soft
variety of ribbed velveteen. which almost equal
to velvet III its effect 1t is very we'll adapted for
trimming upon wooiien materials. as it is not costly
and looks aud wears well.


The colors and brocaded patterns In American
silks introduced for the fall and winter
perfect. both in style and iinish The designs
in figures will be taking and the coiors are clear
rich and full These brocade silks will be very popu-
lar overdresses aud the various drapngs COM
bincd with plain silk matching IN shade, the exact
tint being found in American silks. They shown
III all the superb wine aud plum shades the Japonais
and aendarme blue being exquisite. This material
forms superb costume for early TALL which can be
worn during the entire winter, and then be
modelled for another season to look good new.
They wear like iron. In fact understandable.


Pekn poupadour IL a handsome striped silk,
OF American manufacture, the stripes combining
various bright coors on grounds to match all solid
coored dress good. The satin Pekns again
brought forward. but IN all the winter coiors
and for cheaper trimming there the American
satin faconne that is offered at 81 80 per Yard.
Another silk is the mummy cloth" This also
appears IN all the new winter colors Ms well ~ in
back. 1t is exceedingly pretty in color. and the
black will bc popular with ladies in mourning as 1t
will make rich, serviccable dress, be worn upon
all occasions.


FALL MILLINERY.


1t is only by special favor that arbiters OF FASH
ion will give any cew to the styles they contemplate
Introducing in the autumn. but private letter from
Paris gives information that virot Eas exhibited to
q favored few pretty caprice in dressy bonnets
to be worn with visiting costumes in early
fail. This style is in capote shape. with brm
OF Leghorn and stiff of dark blue
or wine-coiored satin. put on plain, following ac-
more of the coal-scutte shape than the poke
worn through the summer. This is of fine Tuscan,
with the large brm lined with dark red velvet
shirred. Upon the outside three soft ostrich
tins same shade the straw. with wide satin rib
bons OF tho same color. and cluster of large red
nstcrs


The favoritc Carmen bonnet is shown with greater
breadth in the back. Tho rolled brim English tur-
banl promises to remain IN favor, and pretty round