Year: 1874

AT THE GEYSERS Iceland, August b, 1874


Here am at last in the very midst OF this great
nest OF bubbling fountains OF boiling water, which
l first saw pictured in my school days geography
book, and which have been to me wonder ever
since, and are, now that lave seen them more q
wonder than ever. A hundred jets OF steam are
rising in the air all round me like many columns
OF smoke from as many piles OF burning brush
wood. A hundred holes OF various sizes are
in the earth, and looking down into them
through the rising steam one sees a great
bubblng, boiling spring that seems to be
bottomless. From many OF them water
from time to time pOurs over the brim and runs
away in boiling rvulets, above which clouds OF
steam are ever rising; steam Kisses out through
assures in the rock, through the soft turf, through
seething pools OF mud. and over a marsh quar-
ter OF mile distant veil OF mist Is rising
nOating away TO be melted in the tender sunshine
For the day Is lovely past oil description, and
weary from our two days journey OF not less than
ninety miles over the worst OF roads, on horse
back, to which few OF us have been OF late accus-
toned, we enjoy our repOse on the grassy slope
overlooking the valley of the hot fountains, and
write. and sketch, and wonder, and admire. The
air Is clear, as 1t rarely is in Iceland.


THE VALLEY OF THE GEYsERs.


The outlines OF the mountains are sharply de-
fined against the clear, pearly sky, and even the
snow peaks can be dlscerned In all their varied
forms through eighty miles OF distance. AS look
away to the southeast great Hecla looms above
range OF purple hills, the position Of Its immense
crater distinctly marked in depression OF the
cap OF snow. l am looking directly across the
steaming plain OF the Geysers that stretches away
beyond through miles and miles OF soft green, and
through which meander silvery branches OF the
Hvita or White River The scene Is too grand and
wonderful Tor pen or pencil. The sunlight
glow on Hecla surpasses anything have
ever seen. Occasionally delicate
rent OF warm air touches It, and, chilled
by the cold ice and snow, a light vapor for few
moments floats away from Its highest point, Gre
ating the impression that stream OF smoke Is
issuing from 1t. But this happens rarely, and the
great noun ntan seems to float in the sky as light
some cloud, glorious and luminous and vast. Be-
hind me is the level, white summit or the Lang
Jokull; rises the great sharp, snow-streaked
Blafel whose marvellOusly rich hue reveals at
once the meaning OF it name; while between this
and Hecla, with the same dark foreground which
frames and lntensfes the glow OF the famed vol
canic mountain, rise peak on peak OF the great Ar
narfeo which Is the very central crest and heart OF
Iceland. 1t is picture for painter to linger
over; 1t Is picture Tor poet to dream OF all his
nfe and one which cannot better describe further
than by saying that it was simply glorious. poet
(Bayard Taylor) sits now by me on The green, and
l find myself wondering if his fancy and intense
sympathy with nature not, even while l write,
rearing up some wonderful poetic fabric worthy
OF the marvellous forces that have been and still
are at work in the earth beneath and around US,
and worthy, too, OF his comprehensive intellect
and subtle qualities of thought.


MOUNT HECLA.


Hecla In ITSELF that is in form, is not at all pic
turesque. There was nothing in 1T TO interest the
fancy but the glow OF sunlight Its cap of snow.
Z tS strnn lOnp IN
northwest and southeast, and is only remarkable
In outline when seen from the northeast south
west when the sharp ridge comes out like peak
against the sky.


learn that the ascent of it is not difficult, and
1t has been already reached this year by Dr. Lett
ner, whom have had the pleasure of meeting on
board the Albion and again at the Kings dinner,
at Reiklavik. From the Geysers to Its loot Is a
good two days. journey. One may 60 on horses 70
the little hamlet Of N9frholt, good way up the
side OF spur that it sends out to the west, from
whence, after refreshing one's self with a nights
Sleep the crater may be reached without difficulty
or danger in five hours. This year the summit Is
more than ordinarily covered with snow. The
season has been unusually backward and
| chilly, and there are very few dark
patches to be seen near the crest Usually,
as am told, the crest is almost clear OF snow be.
fore August, and therefore Hecla mas failed to be
|
snow mountain, or at least mountain always
white. 1t Is simple Fell, or rocky waste


REGIONS OF PERPETUAL SNOW.


| First In Importance of shese J1kulls is the
| Vatna, which occupies immense space of
several thousand square miles In the southeast
part of the island, which has never been explored
was told In Reiklavik that an English party OF
four enthusiastic Alpine climbers have gone there
this season, supplied with every appliance, in
the shape Of Alpine guides, ropes, ladders,
spiked stafls and spiked boots, to do what
has been hitherto regarded as impossible; but
| whether not they have succeeded In breaking
their necks remains to be reported. 1 sincerely
! hope they may come out safe and sound, for the
region Is one OF great interest both In artistic
and scientific point OF view, and may they live to
tell oft.


One thing must not forget to mention before
quitting the description of this scene from the
Geysers 1t is the surprising richness OF color
ing In the landscape. Surprising, because mad
read quite the contrary, and my friend Mr..
Bryce, who crossed Iceland last year, had told
! me that everything to the artistic eye
was unattractive and monotonous This
Is doubtless in general quite true, for
fog rain is the prevailing condition
OF an Iceland summer On this day, however, the
air was remarkably transparent and there was
| no color IN the landscape wanting to delight the
artists eye. The most delicate vioets, the love-
lest purple, the richest gray were all from time
| time conspicuous, and there has been throughout
the day glow on mountain, hill and dale that Is
truly charming.


THE KINGS STAY AT THINGvALLA.


But how did get hereS the reader may well ASK


since have broken of my narrative by this de-
scription OF the das. The narration left our party
eating breakfast at Thingvaa. We had resolved
not to allow the King to go before us. But
right well he may have been pleased to 20
anywhere, for they tell me he had a
miserable night of 1t at Thngvalla and | fancy
he was much like everybody. 1t is all very well for
one accustomed to 1t to ride horse forty miles
day, but none OF us had done SO for long
WHILE and doubt whether the King ever had