Year: 1879

The soft cotton stufis used for wash
dresses have very little dressing, and re-
uuire very little starch when they are
laundried; if made stiff with starch they
do not produce the effect Of being new
and fresh. Ginghams and mummy cloth
have found most favor for such dresses.
The ginghams are in plaids, bars or
stripes of gay colors, or else in the popu,,
lar seersucker patterns Of two shades OF
gray-blue, and the mummy cloths that
are most liked have quaint faded-out
colors in stripes, with Il chintz pattern
of palm leaves or flowers between. The
entire dress is most often of one fabric,
instead Of choosing plain goods for the
lower skirt. The mummy cloths are OF
the thickness of satteens, but instead OF
having closely-twilled lustrous surface,
there are woven roughly with raised
spots and dots. The skirts of these
dresses are invariably short, as they
form a walking suit for summer wear,
and the kilt skirt is used more oftener
than plain round skirt. The kilt skirt
has q very deep yoke coming far below
the hips, and the killing is adued in very
wide plaits, deeply folded but quite far
apart, and held in place by single row
of tapes sewed underneath half way be-
tween the yoke and the foot of the dress.
These plaits hang easy and careless-look-
ing, and it is not intended that they
should be stiff and prim, consequently it
is not difficult to wash and iron them.
With such skirt short bunched-up
polonaise is worn in what is called the
Marquis style. The fronts round open
lust below the waist, and are caught up
in single cluster of plaits, or else Il
bunch of shirring on each side and in the
middle of the back. The plaits are be-
low the hips, leaving the plain Mar
guerite effect in the back, and there may
be cluster of long loops of gay ribbons
on each side where the punching be-
gins. To edge this polonaise some
of the fashionable cottage laces
are used, either Russian or else
ecru yak lace. In other cases knife
plating of the material is edged with
heavy italian Valenciennes lace that is
very narrow. Sometimes solid-colored
cotton Chambery, either red. pale blue,
olive green, or ecru, is laid in knife
plaitings and put beneath the lace-edgcd
frill, and is only seen as facing, OF
when the friQ of the material is blown
up. When the polonaise is not used, the
waist is panier basque punched up in
the side seams and also in the middle of
the back. The overskirt is then panier
round overskirt made with gored front
and side breadths, and full back caught
up in either three or five places. When
the mummy cloth has an ecru ground,
the polonaise is lined as far as the hips
lnk 70
represents vest, and a revers outlines
the vest on each side. Pipings of red
CRANBERRY and ecru lace trim the ecru
mummy cloth polonaises. In one polo
naise the ecru ground has dark myrtle
green stripes, while small olive leaves
are on the ecru part. With this garment
long louped bows of red and cream
colored satin are on the side seams of the
back quite low on the hips, also on the
sleeves, in the middle of the back at the
neck, and as, - cravat. Such polonaises
cost 1926 without a lower skirt, and are
to be Worn with 4 silk skirt of dark
brown or of myrtle green, or else with
the short black silk skirt that still forms
the foundation Of many useful toilettes,


The expensive Scotch ginghams and
the lighter qualities of zephyr French
gingllam are made up similarly and
trimmed with white braid lace. or else 4
scant ruflle of Hamburg-work in snowy
open patterns. The American ginghams
are made up in suits, trimmed with
Smyrna lace, and sold for $40; q parasol
to match is furnished with suits sold for
Sl2. The blue-striped seersucker ging-
hams sold for twelve and half cents
ward are perhaDs the most satisfactory of
the domestic ginghams, both in regard
to washing and wearing well. They are
made up with a belted basque that is not
lined and with long apron overskirt.
A bias band is stitched on the basque
and overskirt in preference to the knife
plated frill. The only trimming is the
deep kilt founce on the short lower
skirt.-BazGr.