Year: 1874




So much interest is exhibited on the
subject of dress reform. that beg space
in these columns for a description Of
my inventions. I am assured that sew
eral of them are patentable, and, to
prevent any one from making private
property Of what prefer should be
public benefit. shall try to instruct
my readers in the art AMI mystery of
making each and all of these improved
garments. 5


FIRST there is the sschemlin, a combi-
nation of closed drawers and long slcev-
ed che1nise. The front has a full bosom
and opening enough t. pass the head
through. There is a broad hem in the
center and facing around each sleeve
running down to the drawers, as foun-
dation for buttons and button holes.
The back is like that Of a short
sack night gown, with a V shaped fac
ing, from the centre Of each shoulder
and meeting in the back, with one
which runs down for button or but
ton-hole to support outside or inside
drawers. The drawers arc open at the
right side and across the back, which
gives the opening through which one
gets in, first the upper, then the lower
part Of the body, and with one button
on the right side on the drawers and
one at the throat, are completely COW
cred. without fear Of gaps or exposure.
The shoulders fit exactly, and are
short. leaving the joint to work in the
sleeves. Made of flannel or muslin
they support knit drawers perfectly, by
putting buttons on the drawers and
| button-holes in the chemlin, while the
facings give points for support for out
| side drawers, skirts and stockings.
I think it better to have knit under
wear in two parts; for there is so much
! drag in knit garment reaching from
shoulders to ankles that it greatly in
! creases the wear and is less comforta-
BILE, but with knit drawers buttoned to
the chemlin and the usual wrapper
coming down to meet them, these
troubles are obviated without the
doubling of folds: but I fasten nothing
to the chemlin. For support use the
.:carry ALL which is substitute for
corsets, fits the figure, is buttoned up
in front, supports the bust, aud affords
support for stockings: outside drawers
and skirts.


Then there is the ''skirt supporter"
for outside skirts, which are separate
from the basque or waist. This is COM
posed of broad straps, crossed behind,
passing over the shoulder, and meeting
| in front with double set of narrow
straps, two Of which cross in front,
while the other two pass down each
side. These straps are of firm cloth,
double, are easily adjusted, should be
sewed fast to the band Of the dress;
they give perfect sense of security
and of regular, even support.


Then th.r2 is the tsun der sdrtss,S
which fits the figure like glove, sup
ports the bust, and has puffed front
that may be made to take the place of
pads. 1t terminates in skirt, can
easily support drawers, stockings and
outside skirt without dragging the
bust puffs and, for summer, is nice
substitute for both chemisc and COR
Sets.


Last, there is the <sgaiter drawers -
the lower part, of waterproof fitting
the ankle, covering the instep and but
toned up on the outside. The upper
part closed, drawers of any material
warm enough to supersede the necessity
for a skirt under the dress, if the latter
is lined. These are buttoned to the
''carry all, are invaluable for walking
or riding in cold or wet weather, aud
are easily exchanged for skirts on COM
ing in, if one wishes the change.


| thrust I have made the descriptions
so plain that any one can construct
either or all of these articles. if they
desire, remembering that the main
ideas are uniform covering Of the body,
warmth without a burden of dry goods,
room to breathe, divorce from whale
bones, and such an arrangement that
all the weight comes on the shoulder
above the joint, and is evenly distribute
ed between the neck and point of the
shoulders. But to those who wish to,
but cannot make these articles, I rill
| send paper patterns Of either for Is
cents, or Of the five for 81. To those
| who prefer, will send miniature cloth
model for 25 cents, or pattern and mod
el for so cents, or patterns and models
of all for So. But to all women let me
say, that room to breathe is first ne
cessity, room to walk is if but little
less Importance, and women must stop
making mop-sticks of T. IF bodies be-
fore they can have health, or ought to
exercise their right to the ballot.
JANE GRAY Sw1ssHELx.


No. 6l8 West Monroe St., Chicago.
s LecturIng Queen Victoria.


The London World Is taken to
tpachin0 Oman Vicfnr,I ronI uancore