Year: 1879

PAU, Dec. H. 1878.


Pau so far as the weather is concerned is not to be
trusted. This morning there burst of snn-
shine. and walk to the environs was inviting. The
snow had fallen during the nght-just enough to be
tantalizins. not enough for enjoyment and too much
for comfort, which is about the way you generally
Hnd snow in this latitude. But the sun gave
promise of open fields, with possibilities for the
hounds in the way of finding fox. Then Pau mis-
behaved itself in weather way so badly when Gen
eral Grant that all who cared for the good name
Of the old town of Henry of Navarro rejoced in the
But the rejoicing was temporary. for almost
before the morning shadows had thrown themselves
the peaks black, heavy clouds came up
from the The came in feathery
flakes and strong wind blow it against
your window pane, and soon the mountains
were hidden under neecy canopy. and the green
hsides became brown and gray, and the sparkling
waters Of the Gave were confused and blended with
the falling snow. There refuge but what
would find at home on bleak December day-a fire,


cigar and novel. the writing Of letters. As you
looked down on the terrace an occasional phantom
glided along, and you knew by the strde-the lung
ing, tramping strde-that some of English
friends of for jaunt through the valley. eager
for the air and caring nothing for tho the
rain But capricious is Paul For as you study the
the stormand there few forms of natural beauty
better worth studying-you look out the
hills and pale riffs of light appear. and
the black clouds become pearl and roll and
melt and break and became blue Then you know
that the its power for the skies out
clear and bright the vanishes and the sunshine
pours over the valley, and the Pyreneean submits
once more mass themselves against the horizon.
brighter and more radiant because of the that
has fallen and the that has come to rradiate the
snow.


HUNTING


What you have Of winter here comes in whifs and
gusts. and while hour ago the day seemed doomed
to correspondence there is possibility that the
hounds will meet. take counsel this subject
from Swiss serving who answers my bell and
has humble functions in the hotel and who has so
much intelligence that think he must be an
eminent Swiss citizen in disguise studying
the institutions Of the country. or, perhaps.
member of the International Society warning upon
kings. My Swiss friend informs mc that the hounds
will meet reported; that there is no doubt
about 1t now, he had private information from
of the attendants at the hunt He says there is no
trouble about finding fox. because they always
carry along in bag He thinks it droll busi-
ness carrying fox in q bag. and then gaoping over
bitches to find it, when it easy to keep it in
the bag But these Englishmcn droll. and the
townspeople have voted 10000 francs to help find
the fox when he escapes out OF the bag. The ques-
ton sport does enter into his mind. and half
believe that the only reason Francois can find for
hunting is that the English milords may show their
scarlet uniforms which must be badge Of rank at
home.


HUNTING THE PYRENEEs.


1t is well understood that English civilization is
imperfect without hounds. So when the English
invaded Pau and planted colony the hounds a
necessary sequence. The countr. is favorable for
hunting; there are pleasant stretches across the
valley with bitches and fences. suppose there are
foxes enough, If huntsmcn really wanted to find
them in cover they do in England, but this would
be subject TO many Inconvenience. In England
hunting is n national amusement. and all classes
accept it, and for generations hunting men have
roaned the shircs and found the foxes where
they could. They always at home. But in
France it is foreign amusement and is well
enough around Pau, where the people understand
it. and the keen Bearnsisc accepts it because it
keeps Englishmen and Americans in Pau and brings
him money. But if a hunting party
roam over the country in the slircs the peasants
would be apt regard 1t INVASION and the gen.
tlemen in pink and scarlet Communists or Span
iarls come to ravagc their fields. The hunt, there
fore. is always bag hunt. A half hour before the
time fox is carried In bag over route laid down
by the Master of the Hounds and set free given
point. This gives the fox time to hide to make for
spain return to Pau if minded 1t enables the
Master of the Hounds to select n route that will bc
convenient to the hunters and to the farmers. who
sensitive about having growing fields ridden
He make the hunt long one or short one as he
pleases, also matter to be considered in days when
the weather Is capricIous Even when there is frost
the ground. unless the frost Is hard and binding.
which does not often happen at Pau, fair hunt may
be assured.


par As ENGLISH COLONY


Pau Is so much an English colony that fox hunt
ing has become institution. Our beloved cousins
wander over the world seek out congcna nj aces
dir and scenery and sea. They bring their comforts
with them and you mark the si,c of an English
camping ground as readily the site Of q camp
ON one of our prairies. Tea. pale ale Tauchnitz's
translations Cheshire cheese, bacon, hounds and
horscs-with some corner where you can worsn,p
according to the Established Church. The shop.
men adapt themselves to their invaders. As Won
wander about Pau, and look in at the windows Won
see all kinds Of traps baited with English novel
ties" A blazing handbill tells you that the last
London paper has arrived with Bcaconshcids speech
and a full report of the latest mystery" Signs
tell you that English is spoken within, although
the quality OF English is not specified. Woollen
goods abound, the Pau shopmen believing that Eng
lish comfort demands large amount of wool.
National vanity is battered by the names OF the
stores. one establishment near our hotel given to
gloves and hosiery. being named The Prince OF
Wales" While these comforts spread out by
Ihe shopmcn the colonist must bring his amusc
mcnts and his religion. " the coonist is Catholic
Pau will be especially attractive. IL seems. far as
eau learn. that the Virgin has a fancy for coming
down to the Pyrcnccs He- last appearance was at
Lourdcs only forty minutes of. hut End that tho
Church has many traditions of such appear
anccs at various points in this glorious noun
tain range There amuscmcnis in
France except sitting at cafe, playing
aominoes and talking politics. Then tho English
man is homc-loving. gregarious being. He cannot
snjcy his dinner unless he have friend TO whom
be can talk about it, how he enjoyed it, how he finds