Year: 1879

Long dresses are no longer seen on
the street, and in very short time, it is
said, they will disappear even from the
ballroom; fashion having decreed that
dancing shall no longer be a graceful,
majestic walk, but that steps shall be
taken as in the days when our grand
fathers cut pigeon-wings before our ad-
miring grandmothers. It is to be hoped
that this is not true, for trained dress
is as elegant in the house as it is ugly in
the street: but the news that ginghams,
cambrics and calicoes are to be made
short this summer will be hailed with
satisfaction by every woman of neat.
ness. Last summer the kilt skirt, only
tolerable for slender young girls, the
cutaway jacket and the washerwoman
overskirt, were the only models used by
most dressmakers, in making up all their
goods except muslins, but pattern has
been designed for this summer which is
equally suitable for women of all ages,
and which is elective in any material.
It's only Objectionable feature is that
the basque has o yoke, which is trying
to the best figures, and very shallow
yoke at that, with it's stiff, hard-liue cut
ting across the shoulders in o way that
would drive sculptor or painter into
convulsions. The fullness is either
gathered or plated into this yoke as the
Tearer chooses, or two or three shirrings
may hold it in place, and serve to soften
the stiff effect of the dividing line be-
tween the plain and full parts. or the
whole yoke may be shirred.


It is probable that prettier models
will soon appear, and wise woman will
wait for them, employing herself mean
while in making up the walking skirt,
which has deep kilt-plaited founce,
and the overskirt, which has deep apron
in front, and a single breadth at the
back arranged in wide plaits precisely
like those employed in making what is
called ,ja6ot. The kilt-plaited founce
should be tackled firmly to three tapes,
and should only be basted on the under
skirt, in order to save trouble to the
laundress; and the apron should be
bound on both edges and fastened to the
jabot back by hidden buttons for
the same reason. This pattern will be
used for spring suits Of light woolen
cloths, and may be employed for suits of
fine flannel, or chuddah cloth, by omit
ting the kilt plating.


The colors of the last-named costumes
should be dark, but not black, which is
far too common to be considered stylish.
Seal brown, any of the dark garneta,
navy or even sapphire blue, or myrtle
green may be used, but they must be
lightened by neckties.a and gloves of q
complimentary color. Pale blue is the
proper tint to accompany seal brown;
but pale blue gloves are neither pretty
nor easy to find, and it is better to use
reversible ribbons OF pale blue and old
gold, or pale blue and cream color, and
wear cream color or old gold gloves.
Soft gray, or cream white, or pale blue,
looks well with garnet, and any OF the
pale yellows may accompany dark blue.
Brilliant or deep reds look well with
myrtle green, but red gloves are worse
than blue ones, and the dash of vivid
color which is required by green cos.
tune is best added by setting one bril-
liant flower in the bonnet and another
among the bows Of cream white India
muslin tied at the throat. Rsversiblerib-
IONS of green and red maple may be used
if more color seems desirable, but the
wearer should remember that every dash
of red in her costume renders it more
unsuitable for wearing late in the season.
It is probable that more dark colors will
appear in the street the coming summer
than there have been for some time;
black being out OF favor, gray not used
for travelling costumes, and white, pale
pink and pale blue being affected by
young girls. All the new calicoes are
dark, and the. manufacturers OF these
goods seldom err at guessing at the
popular taste. I-1


The newest evelIng dresses are now
made in the princess, shape, but have