Year: 1878

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ladies. The kilt skirt is especially appropriate
Tor these young demoiselles on account of its
simple folds and its freedom from flounces, and
the cut-away coat suits them because Of Its
jauntiness. The scarf passed below the hips
and tied on one side or behind is liked for
plump girls with large hips, while short apron
overskirt turned up all around d lasbldDchisSeuse
is used for those who are very slender. The
kilt reaches to the ankles, and has q deep yoke
at the top. The coat must be quite long in
order to conceal the yoke, and to serve for a
street wrap as well as for house dress. The
vest is usually of silk, and is made entirely
separate from the coat so that II may be altern-
ated with other vests of white pique or of
checked wooden. The merest piping Of silk
is used for trimming such dresses For nice
occasions summer bourette with silk is made in
this way; for more general wear the material
is pin-head checks of black, blue, green or
brown with white in wool goods of light quality,
Round bullet-shaped buttons Of polished horn,
such as are sold for 25 cents dozen, are put on
these wooden dresses, and shaded pearl buttons
are chosen for the nicer bourettes. For the
mountains, the sea shore and country use gen.
orally these suits are made Of flannel, either
light gray or dark blue or green and are merely
stitched near the edges in several parallel rows.
Gray or brown de bege Is made by this design
for travelling dresses and for school suits. II
any trimming is used narrow worsted braid is
sewed in rows on the overskirt and jacket.
Those who like still more dressy suits put bands
of trimming near the bottom of the kilt pleats,
such as one or two rows Of very wi le braid, or
else bands of bias silk serve as border.
Another fancy is to put an upright pointed bit
of silk on each kilt pleat; this is about four
inches long, is cut off bias across the top, and
begins on the extreme end of each pleat.


For percale, lawn, and calico dresses for
young girls the favorite model is the pleated
basque yoke in back and front, and a deep
collar turned over as Carrick, or else mere
ly Byron collar. The overskirt Is long
apron gathered back by bow in the sheath
design that accompanies the cut-away coat
suit illustrated in Bazn No 9, Vol XII. The


skirt is trimmed with single border founce.
The best plan when making the pleatsd basque


is to fit lining in basque shape and then cover


it with yoke and pleated part. In order to


have the material all shrink alike when washed


this lining should be Of the material Of the
dress; the incest imported suits Of wash goods
are all lined In this way. One of the most dur
able fabrics for young girls dresses is the linen
lawn with white grounds dotted or strewn
with Japanese figures, or else barred or striped
with color; they cost 25 or 30 cents yard, do
not fade, are cool and wear well. They are


made up in the way just described, and trimmed


with fiuted rufles that are edged with the


Go. obap anI mil 0h
usage from schoolgirls. Next there are the
Scotch ginghams In their cool clean patterns
of broken lines and bars of pink with
blue or else dark blue. red or green on


white. These are similarly made, and
edged with narrow Hamburg-work all white, or
else with scallops Of red or blue to suit the


color In the gingham. The percales with dark


grounds, olive, gray or blue, and bourette ef-


fects, or else & polka DO dots are chosen % with
glaze that makes them wash badly. Bias
bands of the same and knife-pleating are the


trimmings for these. Pretty calicoes for ten


cents yard and sometimes less have sprigs of


color and border that makes very neat trim


ming in plain bands or on rufdes.


The prineesse dresses worn BY girls OF twelve


years, and the tiDiest little ones also, are no


longer plain. nor are they trimmed with scarfs.


The fancy this season is to add Jacket fronts to


them, giving them in some designs the effect Of


a cut-away coat, while the princesse bach Ia


preserved. This Jacket begins ct the side in the
under-arm seams and is buttoned by one, two
or three buttons across the breast. These are
made up of French bunting and trimmed with
bands OF silk piped with silk of another color.


This French bunting should be dampened and


ressed before it is made up, In order to shrink


it at once so that it will not shrink out Of


shape after it is worn. Another new design Is


that of putting pleats down the front of prin-


cesse dresses, beginning them with q band Of


trimming that outlines yoke; the garment is


then buttoned behind. Still others have apron


fIonts, and some kilt pleating In the back; In.


deed the greater number OF princesse dresses


are cut off in the back below the waist and


finished off with kilt-plsating. Two or three
cardinal collars are even more popular than


yokes on the smallest princesse dresses Plas-


tron fronts simply .piped and trimmed with a


row of small yet thick pearl buttons down the


middle are pretty on these little dresses; other


plastrons are Of silk laid in fine pleats the


whole length of the 'front.' A iabot OF colored


silk loops is another pretty trimming for the


front of such dresses. Shell peatugs OF silk


edge the bottoms OF fine bourette dresses I'M I'M


ported for these little women. Gray pointille


wool with pink or rose dots Of silk make these


dresses very effective.


White pique dresses are not as much used as


they formerly were, now that small girls are


provided with such pretty colored dresses. AS


the season advances they will be made up in


repped piaue designs Just described with the


Jackets in front. The trimmings are narrow


embroidered edgings in close Hamburg-work or


in more snowy open designs


White muslin slips for little girls under five


years are box-pleated from the neck down to
the edge, where they are finished of with
wide edging of embroidery or else they are cut
shorter, and Spanish founce is added. These


have three box pleats .i9 IN ir9nt g. ana three %


garment is then cut in loose sacque shape.


They are worn with or without sash accord


ing to fancy A row of insertion between the


pleats makes them very snowy. Nansook Is


the favorte material for these. Very plain


and stylish muslin dresses have the box pleats


down the front only, willis the back is plain
below the waist and pleat!ng IS set In there,
either in kilt peats or else in double box peats;
the flounce is then emitted, and narrow edg-
ing is the finish. The little yoke slips, with all
the remainder of the dress flowisg loosely from
this yoke are still worn. Narrow Smyrna edg-
ing is now used on the ruffies of these muslin
dresses, as it is more substantial than Valen-
ciennes, and may be found almost as fine. The
dressy white t0ilettes that are worn over coll
ored silk are in yoke slips or else princesse
coats made entirely of puffs of nansook sep
arated by Valenciennes insertion.


Colored dresses are more worn BY girls
of three to five years of age than they former
ly were The fine French zephyrs and Scotch
ginghams are made in pleated dresses like the
white ones Just noted, and each box pleat is
bordered with Hamburg edging. There are
also gray and buff linen dresses In princesse
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on cashmere.


Aprons for very small girls are now made Of


white nansook, high in the neck, with yoke,


and fully gathered below, and they may be with


sleeves or without. On very stylishly dressed
children they are most worn without sleeves;


and though the little garment is open all the
way down the back, being buttoned only in
the yoke, it will serve as dress over pretty
white petticoats.


Jackets for misses and very small girls are
in the cut-away shape, without vests. They
are single-breasted and fastened by two or three
buttons; a seam defines the waist line, and
pocket flaps are set on at the back in this seam.
The edges are merely stitched, or else they are
bound. Gray homespun English cloths, or else
dark navy blue cloth, are the favorite ma
terials for these wraps. For school use, and on
cool days in the country, the long Ulster Is now
worn with Carrick capes, and belt that con-
fines the back but does not appear in front,
These are also made of the English homespun
cloths. Waterproof cloaks OF dark blue or
gray are also made in slender Ulster shapes,
with a hood or with Carrick capes. Dressy
little coats for girls of four or five years ara
long pIincesse shapes, made of white pique
trimmed with embroidery in open guipure de-
signs. Very pretty trimmings for these are
also made of braid crocheted in star patterns
and used as insertion.