Year: 1879

10 plunge neaQlOnS 1ntO tne QellCaue
mysteries of the toilet: Colored under
clothing and Isle thread stockings of
every hue, worked with silk embroidery
in various devices, are dictated by the
present fashion. Collars are of every
shape and size, but most of them are
standing collars open at the throat.
Quite number of men wear the mill
tary collar, that meets, in fact almost
laps over, in front. There is wide
range for individual taste in cravats as
far as colors are concerned, though the
universal shape is the flat scarf that
covers the whole shirt front. Upon the
varied background of these variously
beautiful contrivances can be displayed
all sorts of pins, according as good
taste dictates-that is from none at all,
or scarcely any, to horseshoes studded
with the diamonds, whips, spurs, frogs
on ladders, plain gold or silver balls
and horses made of three horseshoe
nails. The fashion of mems outer gar
ments has undergone a decided change
for the better-so the delighted young
men say. No longer does one see the
huge check and tremendous plaid.
Plain dress and subdued colors rule.
AS women vie with and dress at each
other, so they say do men, but the
women have the advantage of being
able in many cases to alter their own
clothes, and by adding a piece of vel
vet here and bit of fur there produce
new lamps for old. Men, it is said,
cannot do this. AS his clothes are
made so must he wear them or not at
al, and whatever may be the truth as
to buttons, men, it is believed, do not
venture to take in tucks in the slack of
their trousers, or alter the cut of their
coat lapels. There are said to be bril-
liant exceptions to this rule. 1t is re-
ported that a certain man recently
made bet that he would not only make
himself suit of clothes, but would
wear it at his club, and thati would not
attract attention by any popularity of
cut or mistake in sewing, or lead to
researches in his family history. This
bet was taken, and the suit was made
and passed the ordeal. Upon close ex-
animation afterward, however, it was
discovered that the pockets had been
left out.


The run on some of the tailors up
town this year is almost unprecedented.
One man is happy over orders received
this fall for sixty odd dress suits, not to
speak of the innumerable sack and cut
away suits for morning wear and the
dignified frock coat for taking the
afternoon airing. Men seem to be
laying in a stock of clothes of all kinds,
as if they thought that the present
prosperous times would not last for
ever. Nearly all the orders received
by tailors have been for sack suits of
one color or material, or a dark mixed
cloth, or of some quiet pattern. In
afternoon suits, such as frock coats and
three buttoned cutaways, the trousers
are of different material and color from
the coat. At afternoon weddings,
"gris'' pearl gloves are worn by the
groom and ushers, and by whosoever
takes a prominent place in the cere-
mony, but ordinarily the yellow or red
dogskin glove is worn in the street.
The dress that men have for a long
time been wearing in the evening
namely, black "clawhammer,"
swallowtair' or" spiketail," and the
rest of the suit of the sombre hue, with
the inevitable white lawn cravat or
black satin tie (the latter not considered
quite such full dress)-is still in fashion.
A few years ago there was some talk
of q " strike" against this dress, and
it was proposed to. retain the same
pattern for the coat, but substitute fol
broadcloth velvet or. dark blue cloth,
and in place of trousers kneebreeches
and silk stockings. These lacked s


hero to face a ballroom full of ladies in
this guise. and so the plan went a-gly


Canes are more in demand this yeal
than ever, and bamboo stick with


either a silver cross handle with {


match box on it or an agate or tortois,


shell is popular.-N. 7. World.