Year: 1878

cageTneSS
for some drop-soms dew drop, even-of news from
the world behind, you wonder how time must hang
upon active minds the third month the Nile.
One gallant friend. whom we met near Kench. in
formed that the principal amusement was betting,
not cards, but everything-whether there
would be wind or not, suppose; whether the eggs
would come on the table hard boiled soft boiled;
whether the oranges would be sweet sour You
see how betting may become an endless amusement
like arth hmetical progression, and idea of
the resources OF the third month the Nile But
VIC hal no complaiutsnot one. All the stories that
came to that our friends were having the
beat time, the very best time, never such glorious
tme only that ANXIOUS thirst!ng question about
news from home


''NEws YRox HOME"


suppose you will think that we above any
ieties about home that We idle, cynical party
steaming against wi nd and tide, steamng on toward
the Equator Why should not a very tired ex-Presi-
dent upon whose shoulders nfieen weghty years
have devoved vast burdens, the Lotus Land II
only for season, brief season. Well, think
enjoying all the rest winter season the Nile m-
plies, but find even now, when only few
dayson our journey that whenever the dusky face OF
q consular agent comes over the side to salute the
General there with OF tho party, at least that
thirsty question about newsnot that any news Is to
be had In these deserts later than the French
invasion of Bonaparte at least, but the instinct
alive. And when one OF US tho other evening In an
encouraging mood venturcd to dwell upon the calm,
the peace the delight Of this drifting, coloress
disturbed existence, there just the faintest
monstrance, just tho faiutest moan about from
home and "letters" that told how a mothers heart
the So It only remained TO
point to the telegraph poles staring at out OF the
sand, aud preach little about the influences vi CIV
izatio nd he nj nd
deserts and continents, ana SO on. am afraid the
preaching was like most performances OF that kind
based on nothing-tor tried the town OF Esneh
sond despatch to the HERALD announcing our visit
10 Thcbes There not much in tho de espatch, but
was ANXIOUS to have the HERALD print next morning
what had written amid the ruins OF karnak
thought there would be sentiment enough in IL Tor a
good Sunday morning leader and that some Of my old
comrades in the council room who were beating the
universe for themes would thank me Tor the hint
But the telegraph useless except for government
messages. "The only thing you can do" says Sami
Bey sis to send your message by mail to Cairo, and It
will 60 from there" But as the mail generally goes
donkeys and we going by steam, and as we
should probably reach Cairo week or two In ad-
vance, I shall carry my despatch pack with me.


NIGHT on TIN NILE


When the gun throws his shadow over the desert
and the white desert sands assume u browner hue,
and the pleddng cameis pass like shadows over the
horizon and pant with the long days burden sail
begin to look for the shore. The Arab mariner
loves the snorO, and has no fancy foHfhs night It
may be the evil eye which has q singular influence
all Eastern deliberations. 1t may be that not
In much Of hurry, and the river Is not 10 be de-
pended upon. By the time the twilight comes We
have reached convenient place, and our boat hugs
up snugy beside the shore Stakes are driven into
the soft clay banks, rude steps tho side II
1t is precipitous, and very have the gray
headed sheg with his followers coming to watch over
Then the clatter Of cooking and supper the
sitting around large dish and helping them-
with their fingers. We have two three devous
Mosems among who go ashore to pray. The
steersman, who wears . turban and white flowing
robe, Is the pattern of pety. He takes his woollon
mantle about him. He steps down " the brink and
washes his feet, his hands and his forehead Then
he lays his mantle upon the ground and looks toward
Mecca He stands, and holding his hands In
'front.' with the nnger tips touching makes low bow,
q stately, slow bow, his body bending almost into q
right angle. He pauses again, standing erect, mur-
murng his prayer-that there Is no God but God and
Mohammed is his prophet He prostrstes himself on
the earth, kisses It and rising stands again.
The prostration takes place two three tmes; the
prayer over the faithful Moslem gathers his gar
ment his shoulders and comes back to the boat
and supper. Wneu our olnner 10 over We nave
conec on the deck, where sit talk. II we are
near village some Of the younger ones 60 ashore
In q few minutes know by the barking
OF the dogs that they have invaded the quiet
homes of an Egyptian community. Hassan generally
goes along on these expeditions; but the precauton
has been Of any value thus The villages
sleepy enough and the villagers as quiet as possible.
The children peer at you through the straw the edor
come clamoring for backshcesh and there Is
to be blind old soul eh arity In the OF
the most merciful God. You pass along through
streets not than few feet wide, with dogs IN
the and dogs barking from the roofs OF
the low mud huts, thatcned with straw One or TWO
Of expeditions generally satis1es the most
enterprsing OF our party; for Egyptian villages are,
as far l have seen, about the same. While
somo of US are ashore seeking adventure
and the others are clustered on the deck,
chatting about friends and home and the
incidents OF tho day. sailors gather In circle
and we have Arab music. caunot claim any knowi-
edge OF music, although many of my most pleasant
memories are associated with It's influence. This
music of the Arabs is school ofits own which would
DEFY the genius Of Wagner to embody. l have
often thought that the spirit Of people Is expressed
In Its music much In It's literature and laws 1he
music OF our Northern nations always seemed 10 ring
with tho sense OF strength aud victory remember
now the music OF the southern slaves WAS strange
contrast to the fiery strains OF their masters There
low, plantive koy In 1t that spoke OF sadness,
despair degradation. that a moan and cry
than harmony. lancied heard the same plaintive
cry In the music OF the Arabs.


TWILIGHT ON THE NILE.


There Ii one thing whose enjoyment never coascs,
oast with the writer, the beauty OF the
and tho sky. Sleep with Is SO coy dame, not
always to bo won by the most gentle and patient
wooing, that am alive to all the incidents OF the
vessel. Before sunrise you hear the ropes released
from the shore struggling back to the snip. You soc
the torches flashing up and down the bank, noting
the preparations Tor departure. l sloep with my
cheek almost against the who window pane, almost
on the level OF the stream, and II l am weary OF
dreaming or Of seeking Tor dreams, l have only to
open my eyes TO the heavens In all their glory
the stars see them again. as II
sand nm fha dark hros Xo.