Year: 1874

In this volume, Dr. Prime brings the experience of
veteran traveller to the description of social condi-
tions and natural features of widely contrasted
character, and TO certain extent. remote from the
beaten path of American tourists His narrative,
accordingly, has the charm of novelty. while ms
habit of vlgilant observation. his unfailing good
sense and his kindly disposition make it no less in
structive than il is agreeable. Upon arriving III
Madrid, the author was more impressed with the AR
of lasstude that pervades the population. than with
the remains Of ancient splendor. 1t is one OF the
sowest cities of which the civilized world can boast
An old building. for instance had just been taken
down TO make room for another directly opposite 70
his hotel. Workmen were removing the debris TO
give room for the foundation. But not horse nor
a cart was TO beseen not even shovel nor wncei-
harrow. One man with broad hoe scraped the art
into basket made of grass, holding half busheI,
while another passed it on to third and fourth,
who empted it on pile of dirt above, and sent IT
back TO be filed again. A piece of work that with
MS would be put through in few hours was thus
spun out for as many weeks. The great palaces and
eahedrals of the South have all been put up at this
snairs pace numbers and cheapness supplying the
want Of enterprise and force. In some instances,
this habit of circumlocution proves practical in-
convenience, as Dr. Prime found to his cost.


To see the mode of'dong business in Spain, take the
money in Madrid Holding a 'letter of credit which is
promptly honored in part OF the world ana Is 9st as
went search of Spanish banker to draw hundred
pounds sterling, say five hundred dollars AnanazlO eu
The way, and soon brought us 10 the house Mnei @
Of money held his court. Being SHOWN UP STAIRS,
through two three passages ana an ahte-haoeI w
were at length ushered into the presence seor hoe0 @
fhe banker, was man OF fifty, dressed OF ratneI % @ ui
head slippers his feet and pipe in hs pse9ented
clerk was sitting near 10 40 niS @ h ibe cer then
by principal long consultation tO3wen ; ~
6e 1% N R% Ha 'S See audible II was fnay determined to
let me have M he anS OF ro1ernen loan from
The ROthschlds aud taking the necessary reeelp aH
OF spain. When had fancied the delays We're over over
ihey had only Just begun. The bank was in distant
10 save all the time could. The bank is large ana
imposing edhc OF white stone IN the ves9Ge bont Ts
10 enter the inner door We must await our o tT r1 a.
Benches there and We sat down. adullrIng sentiy
the moderation Of banking business IN SPAIN Az tIe.s


our turn came We entered room certainly a hundred
feet long Tables extended the whole length. Behlnd
them sat cerke very busy doing nothing We were too
TO pass OD and on to the lower end OF the ROOM wnee
entered another the back paro, or & private roU
of the ocers They we're eoseted out OF ssI B
hand. presented the check at hole Out OF WHlcH VIZ "a
GsP SysISo$y SS T%sa waite! Eossds N5ls sss I #5SSi /
s S Tl'' Se e snd h0e %s'S Opened dnu asa 'h The %yse
rious hand thrust out with the = money


proved We must present it at the table counter for
payment Returning to the long room we presented the
here of course got the money Nctyet Bills Of the
Bank Of spain were given us ana when reqn,rea tne
The bank in another street Thither we now pursued
building long line of gold hunters ahead OF US
We stood in the cue, ana at last were inside In the
ante had wait so long that we took to the
bench again At last admission being granted, were
tod that only could be admitted with single draft
We were told that crit only entrance. was allowed at
The rear Explaining the case we got out ana erl e h
appearance Of AntanazO loaded with gold AT last for
money in his hands II had from two to three
hours the middle of the day to draw this money which
in NewYork, London Paris, or any city out OF spaln
would have five minutes or less. Ana have been
particular in the detail because 1t lets yon into the
est bank Of this country,


Previous to the introduction of railways by French
and English companies, the same sOw-cOach system
prevailed in the arrangements of the post and OF
travel in general. When the royal person made
journey it was like the march OF an army so great
was the retinue required for comfort aud display.
As,the,railways are now completed only along few
of the more important routes, the mails are still
largely carried in coaches made for the purpose. Not
more than thirty years ago, when Spaniard was
about TO risk theperl and toll of journey he would
send for his lawyer and make his will and for his
priest 10 receive timely absolutiOn for his SINS nor
would he then consent TO start without the assur-
nnce of bis physician that his health was adequate
t. the enterprise At present the native travel is so
small that the railways do not pay we'll If 1t were
not for the freight they would not be supported at
all The postal system is a source of constant an
poyance to the traveller. Government spies are
always upon the alert If any secret were intrusted
TO the mail the letter would never reach its address
In the post office at Madrid the letters held four
hours after the arrival of the mail. Then list OF
nl letters not specially directed is posted up in the
hall of the office You look over the list and if you
find letter for yourself, you ask for 1t at
The proper window. II you are q stranger, your
passport is demanded, although you have been
assured before coming to Spain that no passport was
necessary In default of passport, you must prove
your identity in some other way. DR.. Prime was
,plucky in the resemblance of his name to that of
General Prim the noted rebel, and did not receive
n letter from the pOst-oAce addressed to hun while
he was in Spain. They were all sent to the Govern
ment and no efforts to them successful


With regard to the temperate habits OF the Span
ish people, Dr. Prime offers some suggestions which
deserve notice. According to his experience where
light, cheap wines are the common drink, there is
little drunkenness. He was informed by an English
engineer who employed hundreds of men on Spanish
railways that Dtemperance was wholly unknown
among them The class of men who would be the
most addicted 10 the vice in the United States, are
more temperate than any class of people in England
or America. la the opinion of the author, this is
not TO he ascribed solely to the abundance of weak
wine. hut in part to the climate, which is at once
favorable the vine and unfavorabe to the excite
ment produced by strong drink. The climate is so
delightful that il is luxury to breathe the atmos-
phere. and takes away the taste for fiery potatons


But If drinking to excess rare, smoking is uni
yersal. No one pretends to ask permission for his
cigar even in railway carriage. Everybody