Year: 1869

10 PANT yOu-a. thorough cOquette.
HOW A FAsHIoNBLE WOMAN IS MADE UP.


The last issue Of the New York Sunday
Mercury contained an article occupying three
on four columns OF space, showing how a wo-
man-that is Of course, 4 pretty woman-is
made up, from her head to her feet and how
much ii costs to make her up-not only in one
speciality, but in each separate trivialitv of
her altogether stupendous outtit--toge1he1
with the pecuniary items and total cost of one
art. We condense from the voluminous de-
tails some of the more prominent and IN
teresting features and present them below:


HAIR.


"a woman's glory is in her tairn


This is 4 Scriptural saving and according
ly pious bellies take great glory in il and take
their glory out in various ways-rmder the
five different divisions of chignon or water
tall, wig curls and switches


The chignon is made of wire frame net
work. well stuffed with short hair OF other
material, and costs anywhere from 81 TO $50,
according to size and material


The wig is made of a quantity of real hui
man hair attached to q frame and network
and is less noticeable when tirst-class than the
chignon.


Curls. false curls are now greatly in de
mand, either in the shape of one or two lone
appendages to the human head, reaching tc
the waist, or else a mass arranged around the
head or as comparatively small and scatter
ed affairs, placed at the bottom of the head
under the chignon. They are composed OF
real hair, Of course curled by the usual arti-
fetal means, carefully cleaned and CLOSED


Rolls and putfs are also used extensively as
artifces in the line Of hair. These are com
posed of horse-hair, or short-clpped human
hairs, rolled and compressed together, oven
which the rest Of the hair is displayed AS a
rule, their use can readily be detected BY
noticing AT what tportion her head the woman
commences to part her hair, as the front hail
is generally natural, so that if the rolls OF
puffs are used the part is generally at the back
of the head.


Switches are either composed of short hairs
plated together, or of 4 string of hair as long
as the length of the longest threads of the
human hair. Switches are distinguished from
curls by being comparatively straight, and
are, other things being equal, less valuable
than curls as the latter require more care and
manipulation.


Occasionally the variety of frizzed or tiss-
cered hair is employed in front of the head,
and distributed round it to impart to its falsity
of hair 4 variegated appearance of nature
false curls will be suffered to hang pendant
from the bottom of the chgnon to convey the
same idea of truth to Naure-but in vain.


AS for hair dyes, they are infinite almost
in name and variety, but are all based upon
the same chemicals, viz: acetate of lead and
sulphur, nitrate of silver, lunar caustic, &c
The present rage is for blonde hair, the gold
en- color of which is very expensive.


1t must be stated that though the greater
portion OF the human hair bought and sold
in this city comes from France and Brittany
great deal of bogus hair is used which has
never grown upon the human head at all
thus goat hair, the hair of the South Amer
can colt, mohair, Manila hemp, ETC., are ex.
tensively worn by females as their own; SC
that the lover, when he strokes his loved one'>
hair, may often be stroking the once hirsutt
appendageS of 4 dead bcast-a pleasant thing
for the lover.


We have now accounted for our belle,
beautiful head of hair. AS for her
BROW,


she, like many other women ,haves and clip,
carefully the little hair around the forehead
so as to give the hair in the front pointeC
appearance; and the brow consequently pre-
sents an arched looK-at q very little trouble
and expense. As for her


EYEBROWS,


they are pencied or painted with India ink
which gives them a dark, yet not black, rath
er blush appearance, at a trifling cost and
with little trouble, and when taken in con.
ncction with the use of


EELLADONNA FOR THE EYES.


gives the upper part of the face languish-
ing, ,half-sentimental, half-senslal look. which
is very much admired, because it is s,1nnosed
to afford an index of the woman's nature
pretty index, truly, when it costs about SO
and an hour or two'S work The beladonna
is sometimes applied to the eyes in a ior1id
form, dropped into them, as it were and has
4 tendency to dilate the pupil, and to impar
to it an eager and pensive look Now. as
helladonna is, in its very principle, a poison,
the ultimate result of its use in anv form
save where it operates incidentally in scarlet
fever, etc, is highly injurious not only to the
eyes but to the general system, and vet this
use of belladonna tor the purposes Of fraud
and fashion is known to at least ten per cent
OF our women OF society; and the price OF
belladonna as a drug has risen in conse-
qucnce.


ENAMEL AS AN APPLICATION TO THE FEMALE


FACE AND NECK.


Paint and powder, as will be seen present
ly, are important ingredients of the visible
face of the belle of the period. But there is
another element of the fashionable female
countenance which is rapidly running into
extensive vogue. We refer to enamel.


The enameling of female faces and busts
is now branch of masculine business. and is
quite lucrative. A chiropodist on Broadway
devotes good deal of time and attention to
this line Of trade, while a man called Sans
son initiates his example. The process of
this enameling is somewhat curious. The