Year: 1859




The two principal cones are about quarter of
mile apart, the upper one bearing s. E. from the
other. They are about $50 feet high, and are
composed entirely Of pumice and small fragments
OF lava which were thrown out in LIQUID state
The upper cone was a closed crater enclosing two
red-hot vent holes or furnaces, several feet in dl-
ameter, from which it was emitting steam and
sulphurous gas, and now and then showers of
hight pumice. The sufocating gases rendered it
impossible to approach it except on the windward
side. The lower crater, from which the great let
had been playing two days before, was somewhat
larger, and great gap was left open on the lower
side, through which torrent of lava had flowed
down the slope.


We found third crater, above the two we
have mentioned, which was still smoking, and
In fact We could trace line of fresh lava and
scorla cones two or three miles farther up the
mountain. The larger cones were in the center
OF still smoking stream, a mile wide, which
must have flowed from source considerably
higher up.


1t was subject of regret to the party that
they did not have barometer to measure the ele-
vatlon OF the source, but, taking all things into
account, we think it cannot be less than 5000
feet, and is probably nearer 10 900 feet above the
sea. The elevation of the o heiau of Umi'' is
given by Wilkes at 5000 feet, and We think the
source of the eruption is certainly 5000 or 1000
feet higher


We slept on the warm lava that night, and
early next morning revisited the lower crater and
followed the central flow for half mile, passing
two or three small cones, till we reached the pres
ent outlet, to which the stream evidently has
found It's way from the crater by subterranean
channel. 1t was in appearance pool of blood.
few rods in width, boiling up like spring, and
spOuting up thick, clOtted masses to the heightof
ten or twenty feet. One of our party approached
near enough to run his pole into it. On the
lower side it poured in cataract of molten metal
at white heat, down a descent Of about fifty
feet, with roar like that of heavy surf 4
strong south wind was blowing, which enabled
us, by holding our hats before our faces, to get
: within few feet of the brink. The lava ap-
peared almost as fluid as water, and ran with a
velocity which the eye could scarcely follow The
solid fragments which now and then fell in disap-
peared almost instantly. For several miles the
fiery river continuous series of rapids and
cataracts. At length we reluctantly returned to
our camp, distance of two or three miles across
the fresh lava, which in several places was hot
enough to burn our sandals.


After taking our breakfast and starting our na-
tves over the old "pahoehoe" along the south bank
of the stream, we returned to the great cataract
The action had greatly increased during the last
three hours the pool had become a fountain, plav-
ing to the height of 80 feet, and the falling pieces
were fast forming a crater around il, the rim Of
which was already 10 feet high, but open on the
lower side to afford outlet for the torrent Two
smaller jets were playing above it, which will proba
bly, unite with it to form one crater The upper one
threw up light pieces of pumce to the height of 60
feet, and was forming very regular cone.


Ii was fortunately clear day on the mountain,
and strong wind was blowing from the southwest,
SO that we travelled for three four hours along the
very brink of the stream, without inconvenience 1t
had worn for itself deep, well-de6ned channel that
wa M na0 of SuIl oh
course. The canal in which it varied from 20 to
6O feet in width, and was 10 or 10 feet deep. But
the stream in reality much wider than this for
the banks on either side were undermined to a con-
siderable distance. Often we met with openings in
the crust, through which could see the rushing
torrent few feet or even inches below our feet.


To describe the scene is impossible. No epithets in
the English language are adequate to the task. For
the first time we saw actual and actual spruv
Of liquid lava. As its surges rolled back from the
enclosing walls of rock, they curled and broke
like combers on the reef Its forms, however, were
bolder and more picturesque than those of running
water, On account Of its being heavier and more
tenacious fluid.


There was, besides endless variety in its forms
Now passed cascade, then whirlpool, then a
smooth, majestic river, then a series of rapids
tossing their waves like a stormy sea; now rolling
into lurid caverns the roofs of which were hung with
red-hot staactites and then under arches which it
had thrown over itself in sportive triumph. The
safety with which 1t could beappToached was matter
Of astonishment to US all.


After following it six eight miles, we halted for
dinner island, about quarter of a mile from
the largest fall, and then proceeded down the stream
till p. NJ. As the descent became more gradual,
the torrent changed its color, first TO rOsecolor then
TO a dark, blood red its surface began to gather
graysh scum, and large drifting masses became fire.
ouent. 1t now began to separate into numerous
branches, and it become more and more unsafe to
follow the central stream, changes were constantly
taking place, and retreat liable to be cut off
at any moment We therefore kept nearer the edge
of the flow, and al length encamped on island in
the woods During that light the craters were very
active, and the whole plain seemed to be on fire be-
low and around US.


The party were called out by four O'Clock the next
morning and went up-a short distance to observe
new stream which was pouring down through the
woods to our camp. 1t was shallow flow in a high
state of fusion, and forming smooth 'pahOehOe'
Its mode OF advance through the woods, grding and
slowly consuming the trees, the surface constantly
cooling and breaking up by turns, was exactly
the same as that observed at HO, and needs no de-
scription. Here we were able to take out many
specimens in a liquid state as wished, to insert
coins into them and if we had carried moulds with
us we might have forced the liquid into almost any
required shape We spent the forenoon in following
the stream to the plain, partly crossing it in some
places to reach the scene of new overflow. We had
been particularly curious see how cnkers form
ed, and our curiosity now glatifed. The differ
ence between ''pahOehOe" smooth lava, and ''aa"
or clinkers, seems to be due to difference in
their mode of cooling than to any other cause. The
streams which form the ''pahOehOe" are compara-
lively shallow, in state OF complete fusion, and cool
suddenly in mass. The 'aa'' streams on the other
hand, are deep, sometimes moving along in mass
20 feet high with solid walls;-they less fluid,
being full of solid points, centers Of cooling, as
they might be called and advance very slowly. That
is in cooling, the ''aa'' stream grains like sugar.
At distance it looks like an immense mass Of half
red-hot cinders and Stag from foundry, rolling
along over and ITSELF impeed by an irresistible
power from behind and beneath. That power is the
LIQUID stream almost concealed by the pile Of Gin
ders which has been fnrmed from itself in cnolng.