Year: 1869

Casnmere-black cashmere in particular
is quite the favorite material worn this
season.


Costumes with tight fitting, or with mere
ly simulated paletots, are now completed by
some other out of doors garment, circular or
loose jacket, which is either worn loose
upa1 the arm or else over the dress if the
weather gets cool.


The costume of this style, which NAV
serve as an example, and which is equally
suitable for young lady as for an elderly
lady being very simple but very pretty-is
made of brown cashmere. The trimming
of the skirt consisted of two scolloped-out
borders OF brown silk, each headed with
cross strip of the same. Upon the bodice
the same trimming Stimulates small pere-
line square in front, open at the back The
sleeves are also trimmed to correspond upon
the lower part. Lastly sash OF brown silk
edged on either side with scallops, fastens
up puff of moderate size at the back of
the skirt


A trimming of vandykes and strips simi-
lar to those on the lower part OF the skirt is
placed upon each seam, but only upon the
pulled part of the skirt.


With this costume is worn, when the
weather requires, loose jacket or circular
of cloth or flannel, self calored or checked.
Both jackets and circulars are very ele-
giant in white cloth trimmed with black
braid or velvet.


The jackets with sailer collars and revers
of black velvet, cuffs and pocket flaps, and a
wide border round the edge IF the same ma
terial, are very new and tasteful These
jackets are double breasted, and fastened
with double row of buttons.


Besides black cashmere, which, though
very generally worn, can never become COM
mon, steel gray, garrett and dark green
French merinoes are also much employed for
s1tumn costumns These are composed of a
rUlnd skirt, without any train, trimmed
with fieunce; tunic edged with fringe,
and mantle fitted to the waist at the back.
The hounces of the skirt are made with a
leading lined with stiff cause, and pleated ;
they are two inches deep; the fringe of the
tunic and that of the mantle is always of the
same shade as The cashmere


Water proof cloaks are and will long be
in fashion. In fact, these cloaks have no
more to do with the whims of fashion than
IN umbrella or gutta percha overshoes.-
They are adopted, though ugly, because they
are not only useful but indispensable in many
circumstances.


The bodies for rather dressy toilettes of
this season are generally made open in front,
either in square shape or chale, with re-
Yers. The cnemisetts worn with such bo-
dies are cut of the same shape; they are
trimmed with wide strip of insertion, edg-
ed round the bottom with deep border of
Eaenciennes lace, and round the top with a
verv narrow border of the same. This ar
rangement leaving the throat partly bare, a
necklace, or large cross or lOcket is worn
around the neck.


When the dress is required to answer a
double purpose, plastroon of thesame ma
terial is made to wear underneath, so as to
IN up the empty space the dress then be-
cones high for the daytime. This is espe-
cially useful for the bodices cut out square
in front, and which are generally too low to
wear in the daytime, in winter especially.
Those open chale with revers can be worn
IN the day with high chemisette.


Bonnets, which are as small as ever, are
now completed by large scarf wells of
white or colored gauze, which are worn so
as to go round the head AMI neck.


Here are some of the new models of the
month. A Louis XIV. bonnet of light brown
cape, trimmed with brown velvet ribbon
and with a red rose peeping from tuft of
soft brown feathers; veil of brown gauze.


A bonnet of black lace, coming down
very much over the forehead. trimmed with
lunches of mixed black and white grapes,
and tinted vine leaves.


An oval hat of gray straw, with two
teathers-one gray, the other violet; a
bunch of velvet pansies and veil of gray
gauze.


And beret of black velvet, trimmed with
long mauve feather thrown back over the
crown. and with bunch of white roses
in front.


Feather trimming continues to increase
lnpopularity. 1t is used chiefly on velvet
garments or on heavy failles; the black,
made of ostrich tips is usually selected, and
Is cheaper than that made Of cocks plumes.


Narrow widths of feather trimmings are
used as heading for lace; all of it is ex-
pensive as it is delicate and difficult to re-
pair