Year: 1869

These handsome fabrics, which are new to
American manufacture, attracted great at
tention at the late fair at the American In
stitute in New York, and US they now form
part of the standard dress materials lady
readers may like to know how they COM
pare with the foreign article They are
composed of silk and wnol, and look exact
ly like the famous Irish poplins, except in
the want of certain high finish, which in
the case of genuine Irish poplins of the best
make, have reached absolute perfection in
colors Cthough not in the variety and beauty
of shade), they are quite evual. and the meth
cd of manufacture seems to be exactly the
ame. The price at present is fifty cents
less than Irish poplin; it is 1925 per yard.
The durability of these goods, and also of
the silks of native manufacture which have
of late been introduced into the market,
must be tested by time. but they claim to
be ofthe best quality and fully equal in every
respect to foreign fabrics of the same grade.


Quite revolution has been effected in
lingerie at least so far as collars are con-
cerned; the simple little linen collars which
have been worn SO long have been displaced
by Valenciennes ruff1es, by stiff lace cuffs, in
the Elizabethan style, and by large stomach
er collars, composed of inserted needlework,
alternating with little puffings of lace and
finished with narrow fiuted lrills of Yalen-
cienneS.


The only linen collars that are used are
narrow at the back and have square corners
turned in front. They are edged with fine
futed rufle of Valenciennes lace, which is
left standing at the back but turns down
with the corners in front The same design
is used in lace and necdlework, only to the
collar stomacher is added, which is very
dressy and imparts styliih appearance in
he most ordinary toilet The ruffs are add
ed to the inside of the boddice. and not
only stand up but out from the throat They
are sometimes made of Valencirnnes cdging.
added to fine, clear muslin. Plain lemmed
muslin is used for mourning


Skirts nf house dresses may be made
walking length, or slightly trained, but they
are much shorter than last season.


Trained and even demi trained dresses are
wholly reserved for evening wear. There is
no change in the arrangement of the skirts,
except that there is rather more fullness at
the sides.


Basques, over-dresses and position basques
to high bodies are as much worn in the
house as in the street, but the low,throated
bodiccs. heart or V shaped, which are go
pretty for the house, are considered very
bad taste upon the promenade, unless the
corsage is entirely hidden by the cloak or
other wrapping.


Heart shaped waists and high revcrs are
the favorite ordinary indoor wear.


Plain high bodies have the trimming laid
on to simulate the V, the revers or the Ra-
phael square, the latter very low.


A bow is used to ornament the tops of the
sleeves. or an epaulette, the plating of the
lstter turned up over the shoulder, instead
of down over the sleeve, as heretofore.


Pulled and plain coat sleeves are the
principal styles used for house dresses. The
latter have frequently a puff at the top or
plaitings at the elbow, and deep cuff,
which is real, not simulated, at tho waist.


Sailor collars are still much worn; the
narrow and wide ruffled ones are superce-
ded by the plain ones, with deep points on
the shoulder


Embroidered cam'ric cuffs, with small
gauntlcts of very open embr"idery, and
collars OF the Shaksperean style are much
in vogue.


The largest liberty is allowed in collars.
They may be wide or narrow. according to
TASTE


The prevalent style of dressing the neck
low, with collar and tie, and threat orna-
ment, is considered so attractive that many
young ladies omit the fur collar at this sea-
son, when it is so necessary, and conse-
quently make themselves liable to graceful
obituaries.


jet ornaments are so extremely popular
that single pins, with large covered heads
and fringe attachments, sell at S25 each,
aud from that to twenty five cents.