Year: 1868




Holy Week commences to-day, and will doubtless
be strictly and, as matter of course, religiously
observed by large number of our fashonables. All
those who follow out the religious programme Of the
next six days win evidently feel all the better for
the short novitate Of aims, devotons and abnega-
tons when the glorious sun OF Easter morn arouses
them from slumber and lights them back from their
pentential exile to the charmed circle Of gay, frivo-
lous, fasdi0us society. The Lenten season acts like
a check rein upon society, and not only affords 1t a
breathing spell in the very midst of the folies and
dssipations of the world but furnishes also an excel
lent opportunity to those interested to survey calmly
the dangerous road over which at rapid and runous
rate Dame Fashion has been driving them. Low
necked dresses have long since been condemned as
unhealthful; chignons are similarly classified; thin
soled shoes are arranged under the same category;
the present style Of b0nnets has been pronounced
useless for protecting the head against either heat or
cold; and last, but not least, we are assured from
Paris that the medical fraternity In that city are at
present waging fierce and relentless war against
high heeled boots for female wear They are said to
cramp the feet too much for either health or
fort, and are condemned upon the ground that
they very often occasion serious accidents to
the wearers by tripping them up. This may
probably be the case In France, where the
women can do nothing without help, not even



selves; but here in broad America, where our
walk In broader Shoes the Is decidedly different.
We regard these very shoes which the busy jack
anapes of France are now endeavoring to do away
with as pretty and comfortable; and we further
believe that our women can wear them without ex-
periencing any bodily inconvenience detriment to
their health.


Many beautiful novelties have been brought ont
this season both in materials and styles. AS onset
to the exquisite shade In green known the Meter
mich we have now the 'fame COLOR" 1t tis silk of
peculiar kind Of red yellow well calculated TO show
or rich lace to full perfection but can scarcely
be termed pretty becoming This color at present
Is all the rage upon the other side of the Atlantic,
where anything that is novel or ntra-fashonabe
always finds favor. The feathers OF the ophOphore's
chest are exactly the color OF these flame dresses,
and they made into headdresses or evening wear,
tunatey fashion does not always bother itself about
what Is becoming, and this probably accounts for
he arse ngy n%e o SIX anu ssn,
worn just at present. Butternies t0o hold
their @ own, and are are principally used to adorn
Trains are likewise being ornamented with silk
butterflies, which are sewn on above the bottom
with the material in the skirt, black white silk
or blonde butterflies on blue or mauve trains Our
bellies are growing more and more to look ike their
Observation-Disclosures Hardressng, however,
is better understood now than 1t was half century
ago. and in this age of enlightenment fine ladies' do
not scruple about wearing false hair; for though the
head is dressed quite as elabOrately now as in the
olden tme. It n is by no means necessary
the case then. All these nice little bows
and puis, ready for use, can now be found on our
dressing tables, or pinned to the pincushons ready
to be JudlcOusiv mingled with such hair as grows
on our heads. Gold powder Is now used instead OF
the white pOwder OF former times, and 1t Is not pre-
suming too much to say that we are likely TO be
favored with beauty patches for the features in a
very short time.


The Marie Antoinette and Lamballe Hchus are the
latest sensation In afternoon tOets and are very
fashionable. They are OF different styles, and are
very pretty when made q black failie, trimmed
with guipure for the street, and Of white or
light tafietas trimmed with blonde or fringe
for evening wear, either over Chambery gauze or q
white muslin dress. They can also be made OF crepe
sse and in muslin to be worn over light SILK dresses,
and when the muslin Is trimmed with valencienneS
lace the effect Is extremely good. The following is
the latest style OF nchu:-Two long scarfs; the
eral OF which they are made is folded exactly in the
same manner as the folds or draperitS low
bodice. The folds or paits are stitched down to the
shoulders as well as at the waist The two scarfs
are then arranged like braces the bodice crossing
under waistband and describing four sash ends on
the skirt.


In the way OF bonnets leading uptown millinery
establishment leads Off with the following beautiful
styes:-A charming Empress, covered with plain
tulle; scarf OF rich blonde with frnged edge pass
Ing across back OF bonnet and forming long barbs
in front. with satin piping passing from front
crown and fastened with wreaths of pearl flowers


ents the front with pearl leaves for the face trim
ming; beautiful round hat OF chip, bound with
green velvet and faced with white satin; crossing
band OF white satin placed I'm reversed pats on edge Of
crown, with pipngs of green velvet and Ornamented
with long dropping wreath OF fruit and fine foliage:
the who.e finished ut back with loops and long ends
OF white satin ribbon.