Year: 1868

trous as the sken leaves Of white flowers my and COOL
carriage wraps Of soft tnts brilliant with Agerne bor
ders cOuTes Of romantic STYLE and silks of endearing
quality, Soft costly, and refined, that it makes one feel
amiable them, and incline TO the belief that
seldom have fashions been picturesque or ladyllke


The richest robes are those OF chambery gauze in fine
stripes over satin of another color, giving chameleon
tints without luser The robes singy, the gauze
woven the same width the satin and folded with 1t so
that the two be cut at once Vert de er gauze over
Of and water. Black scarlet satin Is rich for
dOwagers Other robes were of blue aud orange layen
der and marigod green anu cnerryshaqes rather gor
geous for Summer effects These robes at stewards are
$50 each


trimmed with satin cross-cut bands i'll delicate color.
Striped grenadines have relief of precisely the cool
ground is crossed by threench stripes OF solid AZURE
apple green, violet alternating with stripes Of white
color White popelne dc Sole six quarters widea fabric
of repped appearance soft as pumage and as ghts in
Parlsian choice for Summer toilets and one cannot
imagine what exquisite variety OF shades Of the latter M
a selection OF choice OF silks have been examined,
ah @f IeT SPTo he sGS Sy YARD d Tde ali the
light and yet comprising an album OF tnts
subtcst changes of color the artist must have pred
for these rartes the grave surface OF polished silver
pure feather out Of light the understanding OF most
spotess cloud the elusive blue transparency OF snow
have suggested these n at once so clear and so refined
Steel and sllvergray fine, but not compared with
girls SOu the mastic tint which looks white when out
Of the light Lavender and lilac grays are lovely ana
there is one inmltabe gray that shades into blue
cool and pure as an icent Lace is the only trimming
that should be allowed near this shade its own color is too
beautiful for contrast.


Heavy trimmings are imported for the silks OF decided
color The most extravaRant are new handmade trim
DECIDED cocrs fRe patterns are cut IN the satin with the
exactness of die and lined with stiff muslin, the edges
finished with fine chenille. one set OF deep Bismarck
shade made In three large pieces OF Moorish design
covering the front widths of the skirt An arabosque
vine formed the extreme border all round the skirt rich
laceke patterns for the sashes and large circular
designs for the pockets The waists had bertha aud
effect of costly brOcade heavy gros grain which
they Decorations light and elegant for evening
dress also come in sets in the shape OF three long gradu
ated sashes each side the train smaller ones for the
front OF the dress bertha and shoulderstTaps
robe, was composed 81 %rqaose blue S' veiTcS
and white satin. edged with very rich white beading the
corners ended with heavy white silk drops, large rs
olives. The sashes or tabs in front formed small side
shoulder and headed the corsage: set in green satin
aud pearl drops is appropriate for stone gray or dust
bertha aud front trimmings in radiated pattern Of in
serto1 in fine thread net edged with peary gimp, with
olive drops OF white silk, would appropriately trim
bridal dress The work required for these becoming de
with the skill required produce such in
{Test as the starwhees Of Bismarck and lace
| educated in this country.


for the richest dresses Of the season. especially for gac
silks which fashionable again. An imported dress Of
DEEP on the 'front.' Width alone the rest Of the
skirt had border on the extreme edge of satn
curves with trefOi endings which border rounded up
ward to the belt with ornamental figures In satin on the
relief which was all chain stitched IN coarse white
had similar bordering Of black velvet ckah-stched in
gold color Apple green or or turquoise blue and White
pOut de SOLE for married lady had two waists one for
evening with low narrow bertha in front, trimmed
three uted frls Of vaiencennes with purple chenille
run In the open edge The skirt made with moderate
train and scooped on the edge with gimp embroidery
two inches wide up each OF the front and side and
q showy pattern on the front width. The train was
or crown with scOllOped standing heading several in
ches below the belt. The mode OF trimming all these
far back and fancy belt either with sash very large
pait OF silk without ends behind like those used Tor
heading sashes, but always with rosete In front as
we'll - - .,,,.
front straight over each shoulder meeting IA point be-
low collar There were epaulettes and the sleeves
were simply trimmed on the cuffs.


White organdy dresses have ten-inch founces the
hem and fashion ordains are very low necked AT an up
socabe where none OF the guests were very young
modesty covered them Necks beautiful and bony were
custom biunted the effect Of exposure. II women will
have this eroDtery II Is time little well aimed mascu
played lose their advantage There IS one thing more
captivating than beautiful bosom, ladies, and that is
sensbty 1t is possible to expose the entire arm and
fair well rounded shoulder and yet have the corsage high
enough not TO offend the most conservative.


let at Summer resorts. French dress made
rOsecoored gros grain; the organdy had hounee ten





rufies; above three OF WIDE yalencennes, remark
ably fine inserted in large yandykes, one above
dress with wide heading Of yalencennes insertion and
edge large point OF insertion was IN the waist both


seR band and edns Of lace With this dress was to be-
worn hooded muslin mantle, thckly ruted with lace
the ends belted down In rOnt-the hood finished with
rose-coored tassel second robe had apron 'front.'
outlined with double insertion, both OF lace and en-
Senpes waist in lengfwise pus divided by lace pulled
sleeves crossed by yaenciennes straPSIand was worn
with Marie AntOinette hchu' edged with muslin and


The embroidered muslin robes are imported with Dor.
dotted with sprays polka dots or fefoi in finest heede,
work, but very much raised Ike that OF the wrought
silks last Autumn. These musns are 70 be worn over
gace silks and will make snowy toiletes rather than
train Two folds OF leafgrecn satin outlining double
sashes at each side The entire front width covered
satin folds alternating with twoinci band covered
with white cuny Broad stripes Of satin at the sides
inclosed this front The long sleeve was composed OF
green satin folds enoircng the in clusters Of three
alternating with white genadine. Bars of green satin
ornament the waist.


AhandsOme sack for evening was white moutonne,
of light quality trimmed with heavy white pOu de sole
and covered with white chalk beads This ribbon formed
square apes over each shoulder coming deep back and
be found comfortable wrap over thin dresses in carriage


Tie most superblookng wrap OF the season is bur
turquosebl Cashmere with border OF uumn
leaf cOors In Algene embroidery This curonsly done
in chain and oversch occasionally pieces Of velvet
cloth Of bright Ors being used applique TO assist the
rich design The edge Is frnged with white Angola above
which variegated silk fringe half the depth giving
finish gally SOFT The hood and upper border have the
same bright fringe and the mantle, in its flowing folds
and soft harmonious cO0rs Is the most picturesque add
ton 10 toilet that could be devised From Madame Vir
fOet.


An elegant dress is Of turquoise blue gros grain with
border OF wide ribbon In the gayest plaid, finished
both edges by fine Mechln, an inch or two wide Four
saShes OF this ribbon rufed with white lace fall in
red length the longest behind and gay ribbons
are run In the triple rues which head the pla1p corsage


snort dresses for dancing not worn nearly much
nSe az they are abroad, but any lady who chooses 70


the convenient fashion may herself that she


the mead OF the style OF season, that Of


The trained dress Is retained for the carriage and