Year: 1868

shippers and loyal subjects with very rod Of iron
but in this penitential season Of holy Lent. her
devotees have cast aside the shack!es Of tulle
and ribbons which bound them in fashionable
slavery, and now, together with the other good
people of Cbristendom, have taken kindly to
prayer. fasting and aims. Our eegantes have
asserted their Christian propensties, and have in
measure discarded the Delightfully."- perplexing and
bewildering fancies that Dame Fashion invented
to torment and craze them, and now read
prayer books instead of puzzling their brains over
the fashion plates in the magazines. Let us
trust that they will find the change pleas.
ant and beneficial, and that the short
respite of seven weeks-how long it seems -
which they snatch from the pleasures and follies
of the world may prove an advantage and bless
ing to them here and hereafter Balls, routs par
ties and receptions wound up last week in per-
feet blaze of carnivalstc splendor, and now. from
Rome to Alaska, garments of humiliation, fgura-
lively speaking, 10 the order of the day. II is
behttng that some return should be made to the
Cmnpotent for the many comforts and blessings
that he has youchsafed to his creatures here upon
earth; and as Fashion exerts her influence and
sway over Church as well as State, we presume
that there s no great sin in going to church in
fashionable attire, providing our prayers be as
fervid and sincere as though we were
arrayed in veritable sackcloth and ashes. Sack
cloth, as spoken Of in the Scriptures, is not a
fashionable material to make sacks Of nova days.
but we have the consolation still left us that sacks
are yet worn, and instead of ashes to mourn in we
can soon in clouds Of dust mourn for our sacks.
Fine weather is coming on apace and before
"opcning day. there will be many bright genial
mornings and sunny afternoons for the ladies to
do their shopping and promenading But if the
ssush and mud, which now lies ccngealed in great
nnslghtly blocks and patches upon the sidewalks
and IN the streets, be not removed instead of piled
up into black. misshaped ridges the ladies will find
IL lar more profitable and pleasant to remain
at home than to venture forth into the


muddy, sloppy thoroughiares, where nothing but
coughs, colds and discomitnres await them
instead OF pleasure, comfort and recreation. The
muitIlarious and veXatous annoyances To which
the women of this goodly city will be subjected
whenever thaw commences makes us shudder
at the bare thought OF warmer weather. But
leaving the slush and mud as il is left by ex-
empary street contractor-to take care of itself
and believing that our fair readers are growing
impatient to learn something concerning the
latest styles. we now propose to initiate them
into the delightful little iniricacies and mysteries
Of which we have learned something since our
last weekly chit-chat, and for which, no doubt,
they are ardenty signing.


Scarcely anything new can be said of walking
dresses. The under skirts are still made short,
and The dress itself, when OF the princess shape,
IS cut shorter than usual and buttoned en- bais.
The ornament of the under skirt should be biais
of satin to match the material in the dress and
piping forming pattes set in Zigzags and orna-
mented with galoon or braid. The same orna-
mentati0n Is used on braid SASH trimmed with
fringe. and at its upper edge de ted with three
rings of black jet, placed one above the other,
and with cordelIeres. The bais of satin edges the
whole contour Of the dress.


Another pretty dress can be made Of a subdued
silk. with trimmings OF the same color, but of q


deeper shade, having at each end fat button
covered with the same material as the trimming.
On each side Of the front breadth, under the arms
or thereabouts, the bias form the long and wide
ends OF scarf, terminating in loZenges, and or
namenied at the lower borders with buttons and
iringe.s The corsage should be high and trimmed
with berthe formed by the biais and lace.b AIDED
fringe. The lower border Of the sleeve can be
ornamented with like bais, which should be
permitted to run up little towards the elbow
and finish with fringe.


| Although bali dresses are nearly out of use for
| the present season, we nevertheless append the
| following description Of one which is considered
| by competent judges to be the dress, par ercel-


tence of its kind. II is one OF those in which gar
| lands and crescents Of flowers create a new and
charming effect. The under skirt is of pulled
| tulle, with broad piping of yellow satin Of
peculiar shade termed butter yellow" while the


over skirt, or rather tran a in spotted tulle, and
is a pretext for the use Of two tiers Of flowers
running the front in a circular manner around the
rear of the upper skirt and bouquet at the waist,
and which gives this toilette 30 marked o char
are worn short at the shoulders. The


bodice is very short and cut extremely low,
especially behind. but at the centre the depth is
scarcely appreciable. Each hounce Of lace, with
its accompanying sweep of flowers, is attached
to separate skirts or tunics, and, the whole being
light and diaphanous, the effect in dancing is Of
tue most striking character.


Black and green are fast crowding Bismarck
hrA .utA nl.l Draft 1nar to.ln az
green are now trimmed with crosscut bands OF
black satin, fastened down at regular intervals by
green gimp buttons. Dark blue serge dresses are
generally trimmed with rouleaux and leaves of
black satin, and black dresses are finished with
ornamentatons Of black or blue.


The latest in the way Of evening toilets is
white gauze dress over white satin pettcoat.
The gauze is cut out to form grecQues, which
should be bound with satin and trimmed with
fringe; garland formed Of pinked out satin
should be placed above the grecques, and the dress
should be looped up at each side by means OF two
sash ends which are q continuation of the satin
basquine. The basquine terminates with short
basque, both at the back aud front, and the
basques, as well as the top Of the bodice, should
be trimmed with fringe.


The newest patterns in lingerie are cravat col.
lars, composed Of stripe of insertion, bordeled
with lace for the neck part and two square or
rounded lace lapels in front. This IS exquisite in
either Brussels or point lace. For DEM toilet
the cravat collar IL made OF Valenciennes lace,
with patti rn in thick embroidery worked over it
la applique. These patterns are mostly howers or


butterflies and look remarkably pre,ty upon the
clear lace insertion.


Gilt metal continues to be the great ornament
of modern toilets. 1t would be difficult to ina
CINE the quantity OF II that has been used for the
sdorDment of our fashionabes this winter. We
see diadems oil gilt wheat ears encrcing the mead
and looping up the hair, wide belts OF gilt open
work, or, Tor sashes. large rings, to which are
added different emblems, such as bow aud
quiyer, Danas horn, and SO on, all of ss metal as
we'll as the rings.


The coiiiure mante is one OF the successful
novelties OF the season. 1t Is made oil the new va
rety Of tue, which il embroidered by hand, and
has all the effect OF rich blonde. 1ne edging which
borders the mantille corresponds with the centre.
A velvet bandeau. studded with jet and edged at
both sides with narrow black blonde, crowns the
forehead.


For the Lea headdress the hair Is combed back
from the temples, and in front is so closely crepe
that the parting is concealed and the hair has
all the effect of small crisp ringets. The back
hair IL combed to the top Of the head, and is there