Year: 1861




The extreme severity Of the winter has
caused fur to be much in request, and there is
in this material as in all other things, fash
ion. This season Astracan is most in vogue
We find fur used, not only as a trimming for
msntles, but also for dresses. Two or three
bands, about a quarter Of a yard in width,
placed upon velvet skirt, produce a good ef-
feet. Long paletots of cloth or velvet are
trimmed with martin or American, In wide
bands. Large bssquines Of velvet cloth-blue
or white-edged with Astracan, are very dis
fiHgReS. The little velvet shawl, trimmed with
wide lace, is erved for visits of ceremony,
and the color of the velvet must match that of
the dress.


For young persons very charming scarfs are
made Of black or blue velvet, piped with white
satin. 1t is very graceful and simple, and more
novel than the caRaque, though this is far from
being abandoned. Monkey fur is also very
fashionable. Chinchilla fSbecoming more so,
and swans down is much worn on pelerihes
for the theater, and to trim wedding dresses


The Zouave vest is more and more indis-
pensable for indoor dress-for the more SIM
pie as we'll as for the richer toilettes It is
made either in braided cloth or velvet The
fsyorite colors for those ofvelvet are black and
SOlferino, with embroidery of gold or silver,
and pearls. Astracan is also used to trim
them, but this is equally suitable for cloth
Black, brown, and Louise blue are the colors
preferred for the Zouave.


Opera mantles are now made exceedingly
elegant, some of white cachemire, bordered
with crimson or black velvet and gold with
gold and white tassels. The Satan is one of
white or colOred cachemire, richly embroid-
cred with gold. The most simple and suitable
for young girls is burnous of striped thick
and transparent white, alternately lined and
edged with white silk. White cachemire or
white satin sorties de bal, are frequently
trimmed with white plush. burnnous ia
sometimes made entirely of white plush, with
beautiful tasSels of dead gold hanging from the
hood


The material called droguet is in great re-
quest for nome dress this winter, and it is made
now in such rich and elegant designs, that it
may rank next to velvet. Velvet of various
colOrs are worn.


For evenin. dress there are many light and
beautiful fabrics. Tulle is more in vogue than
tariatans, though that is still fashionable for
young girls.


There are many dresses of gauze, checked
with cOlors or embroidered with gold or silver;
worked with velvet. White grenadine, with
pattern in rose color (rose de roll, or with
natural flowers dotted over it, and silk tulle
embroidered with chenille, make exceedingly
pretty and tasteful ball dresses.


Very elegant ball dresses are made of satin,
either OF rose de roi, green, yellow, azure, or
lilac. Satin is also worn for visiting dress in
brown, with black pattern, or of violet and
OF Russian leather color. Tulle spotted with
gold, forms charming unique, opening over
a dress OF tarlatane covered with narrow
founces, or tulle worked with rings of chenille
and gold or in silver. Flounces are more and
more rarely seen, excepting in full dress; fat
trimmings placed round the bottom of the skirt
being decidedly more stylish. Thick materials
are gored: Bodies, high and plain, with a
point or band. Sleeves, tight or open; the
former certainly seem the most suitable for
the cold weather, but the latter permit a
greater display Of lingerie.


Low bodies are now made straighter across
the top than they were formerly. Plsstrans
Of velvet, or of geld or silver cloth, are fire.
quently placed upon the body instead of sashes


Pointed bodies are still generally in vogue
and are made either with drapery or with a
berthe trimmed with rows of lace Bodies
either drawn together or plain in front, very
low on the shoulders with a scarf sash, are
much la mode for young girls Flowers are
used greatly for trimmings, placed either in
bouquets or in long garlands.


PaSsementerie surpasses almost any other
trimming in richness and elegance. We not
only find ii forming hanging buttons, braids
&c, but beautiful ornaments are made of gui-
pure de Venise or of Spanish point, which trim
the front of the body and down the front of
the skirt, widening towards the bottom; reyers
Tor the sleeves, and a long sash to match; and
from the revers fringe hangs PLAQUES are
also made of it, of different colors, violet and
black ,groscille, green, brown and black These
are placed either at the sides or in front of the
skirt.


BOnnets are still worn very large, and high
over the forehead, and the trimming is worn
either on the top or round the crown; and
sometimes wreath Of small feathers is placed
round the front. Velvet and silks are used to-
gether, and often the feathers are white and
black, whatever color may be used for the bon
net.


Touquets are much worn. The one STYLED
Henri Ill. is padded band of black velvet
with gold cord twisted over it, and orna-
mented with q white feather Another is of
matted gold fastening magnolia. Gold nets
with pearls, golden ears of corn with dia-
inOnds or a coiffure Of vine leaves with black
grapes and daisies, composed of diamonds, are
all much admired.