Year: 1869

eame TO deserted house where the family had left a
niece of linen cloth half woven in the LOOM Her Oldest
sister had nothing but shirt and pettcoat thrown on III
the frantic haste of flight, and in that outofthe-way
place the party halted till she woye some yards OF eot
cut out short gown and made it, The younger sister,
about four wears old took hat from dead officer with
the cleft of tomahawk in the crown, and wore t all the
Journey to Poughkeepse Passing atayern on the way
the motley group provoked the laughter OF some ouhges
on the porch whereupon the small Wild cat OF chd eA'
eclted an impromptu war dance In the midoe vi thc
street. Those were not the days Of uncut velvet ana
ured mores, and satin decoupe These arc the la'oe
materials for reception dresses invested with such ug
nifty of point lace and long trains reminds one OF the
forcble proud speech OF the same Revolutionary maon
that " her daughters won gold and wore III"


The new fayorte shade for full dress is warm tint OF
salmon known melon, moro correctly cantelope
color which lights well, and suits variety OF complex
ions This casts magod and corn color quite into the
shade. The splendid uncut velvet TO be had IN cane
lope rose color aud Sevres blue for reception dresses
at 81 a yard They are by no means adapted TO young
ladies' though they have been chosen even for bridal
dresses Amethyst violet and lauregreen are fashion
able coors for silks and satns Black brocaded with
cactus crimson. is elegant.


Satin ribbon for sashcs comes in all colors, with
double face the same ono side rs the other. The
width is twenty inches Algerian sashes, striped with
many coors are newer than the Scotch plaid, and are





not considered full dress Jet and gilt longer to be
used for trimming of any kind tho dull heavy gimp
and fancfu nges show best the glace silk and satin
now worm Chenille, feather and quill frnges are fash
iouabe and there fringe Of satin loops, exceed
inGly rich The marabout braid Is kind Of silk plush
In all coors initiating border Of tips Of colored feath-
ere Wreahs Of satin foliage and flowers in applique ana
embroidery arc the showost trimmings for poult de
sole.


reception dress Of black velvet is with deIn
train bound with two thick cords Of black the other
OF white satin The tunc falls in large staircase patterns
on the front has five Of eordng hree OF white
and two of black satn heading rich fringe Of black and
white satin loops with black chenille IN festoons hVe


inches deep The waist open TO the waist on staircase
pattern over white satin underbody covered with Hon
ton The corsage is edged with black and white cord
tny satin looms and narrow chenille fringe but the back
is nearly covered with heavy ornaments, relieved by
white SATIN broad lapel or two falling on tho skirt The
broad coatsleeve Is trimmed tho outside OF the arm IN
shape and material TO correspond tho figure Of cord ana
fringe ending iu a block outline toward the Gun ana
shoulder Ornaments white cornelian, and diamonds
Coiure: puTs of hair and Honlton leaf with loops of
black and of white velvet ribbon falling over the ehgnon
This toilet is designed for lady OF middle age.


An evening dress Of rosepink, uncut velvet, for
young married lady with dark hair and blonde complex
ion was worn with q fichu OF Spanish chantilly over
white tule the broad long ends Of which were oopcd
to form lace panier ule The sleeve was covered
with loops OF black lace white blocks OF pink velvet
filing tho space between. The hair was dressed In q


zzed wreath crossing the top Of the head surrounding
n braided chignon over which trail Wild roso sprays.
Tho ornaments are chain work Of pink coral carvings
alternated with brilliants.


singular but most effective, dress Is black and whto
shot silk trimmed by hounce headed with black and
white satin folds and rucho of the gray six set with
black satin bows lined with white The tunic which


al Ngf.tv hHfa ~ fuIt IRh
for real paner and bordered with Eve white satin folds
and fall Of black lace The corsage open TO the belt
over chimlsete Of Irish point crossed by black and
white satin folds tho opening bordered with white satin
folds and revers OF black lace which form ieepp0nted
collar behind The hair Is done up In high puned chg
nons oil the front and side locks IN short frzzed ours
crossed by wide band Of black velvet, with small
white plume on one side The Maria sleeve has


fall OF black lace at tho elbow. with heading Of satin
loops. The ornaments Etrusoan gold, with diamond
centers.


dinner dress OF Empress blue satin embroidered
near the bottom Of each width in ies OF the valley on
shaded ground founce OF black lace festooned about
the Ovals Of needlework, above which spre Of black
gupure laid each width Preaching nearly 10 the
belt which was tho only corsagc chemse Russo Of
black guipure charmingy ornamoned with insertions
and butterfly bows Of narrow blue satin ribbon This
costume is for blonde still splendid, though as tho
French decately say, between the nges" Tho Golf
furc brilliant blue butterfly poised the top Of tho
head behind OF blonde braids and fzzed curls
behind plume OF crystal falls over tho chgnon
Of brads and curls. Pearl ornaments.


cantelOpe-colored satin Is trimmed both with whito
lace and black bars Of white lace insertion placed on
tho side widths headnHa f OF black lace on the border
The panier is trimmed with bars OF white and edge Of
black lace Tho low round corsage has chemisete OF
black and white insertion. and scarf Of black lace 10
festooned on the shoulders with wreath OF velvet mas
nd
tho hair Ornaments diamonds


very rich dress IL white poult de solo, without
paner but trimmed In tunic sweep, with applique OF
black velvet put with unmaginablc labor, in gul-
pure pattern, with pendants Tho sleeves and Pompa-
dour waist arc edged IN tho same pattern. pointed
apron Of black lace and shea Of loops and velvet ends
complete this unique dress. Tho ornaments, pale
enamel with gold rims, set with briIantS. The hair is
simply turned from the forehead, and falls over crown
and neck In largo curs, threaded with pearls.


pretty dancing dress China blue gace silk made
short with three Ounces headed with satin rucbes and
white chambery gauze oyerdress. with blue ribbon
bows on the Vatican folds edged with blue quill fringe
and looped b. blue ribbons tho corsags trimmed by
bertha Of loops and ends. Coiure short curs on tho
forehead, under circle Of tiny pink roses natural curs
behind held by single largo spray. Tho most delicate
taste is shown In whto grosgrain dancing dress short
OF course with border Of pale gray marabout plush,
edged with rose-coored satin fringe. The silk tunc Ia
dotted with rosecolored tips and edged with tho airy
trimming Of uncommon lghness and depth. The sleeves
and bertha OF marabOut plush, tho coinuro largo
blush shading into crimson, with falling garlatd
OF buds The finest corure for full dress Is tho Ponpa-
dour In which the front hair s waved ut tho top and
sides, tho back made into ohgnon Of many pufs and
small coronet Of placed directly the crown,
over tho waved tresses Tho center Of this wreath is


filed by bird Of paradise, or al agroto, with plume Of
crystallized grasses


The richest street dresses are now trimmed with fur
Velvet velveteen Isl made with two skirs-the lower
with plsated hounce OF tho upper crossing In