Year: 1869




struction of an ice house are suitable
drainage for conducting off the water that
may come from the melted ice; a slight
ventilation that will carry off such air a.
may become heated; and the presence of
some non-conducting substance that will
prevent the passage of heat to the ice
from the direct rays of the sun, from the
air, and from the earth itself


Many err in building ice houses, in not
making any calculations in relation to
this last named source of heat and they
accordingly lose their ice Just at the time
they have most need of it. By the middle
of July, the soil is liable to become so
warm that it will conduct so much heat
upwards, that the ice will waste away
very fast from it's influence, even if it is
projected ever so well from the direct rays
of the sun or the heat contained in the at
mosphere.


If a farmer wishes building simply to
preserve ice for his own use, and is not
particular about the style of the building,
the expense need not be very great, since
the lumber may be of poor quality, and
he can do most of the labor himself,
Probably a cube of ice eight feet on side
would be sufficient to last any ordinary
family through the season, if there was no
waste from melting. But as there is always
some loss from melting and other wastage,
it might be best to build something larger
than this, say eight by twelve.


The site for an ice house to be built
above ground should be SO elevated that
the water from the caves and that from
the melting ice can be conducted off with
out difficulty. If the soil is sandy or
gravely, it is all right to build on; if, on
the other hand, it is the dark soil OF our
prairies, it should be removed to the
depth of foot or two, and to distance
on either side somewhat greater than the
size of the building and the space filed
with sand, gravel or some other substance,
that will allow the water to drain through
it, and will be at the same time poor con-
ductor of heat.


1t is not necessary to have any sills for
an ice house. Planks or wide scantlings
placed edgewise two feet apart, are quite
sufficient for foundation. They should
run from side to side and not from end to
end of the building. Pieces twelve feet
long would allow space eight feet in the
clear, and allow for double walls on each
side with a space of eighteen inches be-
tween. This is on the suppostion that
the walls are made by mailing scantling on
to the ground pieces at the ends and the
inner side of the next set two feet from
the end and boarding on the inside OF each
set of uprights This is the best way to
fasten the boards, as all the strain on them
comes from the inside. The inside walls
must be built first, when the outer ones
can be made in the same manner. Similar
walls must also be built on the ends.


The scantling need not be of the first
quality; SO they have one straight edge TO
nail to, they will answer every purpose
Shaky boards, or those having knot holes
in them, may be used on the inside walls,
as their only Office is to hold the hlllng
that is between the walls in its place. The
floor boards also need not be OF the best
quality, as few cracks or knot holes VIII
be of use to let out the water that may
come from the ice.


No floor should be laid between the two
walls of the building, as it is better to
have the filling between the walls ex-
tend to the ground. The tops OF the
scantlings of the inside walls may
be cut off at the uniform length OF
eight feet, and kept in their places by
plate of the same material nailed on top
of them, and on this the upper floor can
rest. The scantlings of the outer walls
can be kept in place by cleats running to
the inner ones, and by spiking the other
on to them. The upper floor should ex-
tend from one outer side to the other.


Before this floor is laid or the roof
boarded, the space between the walls
should be filled with some substance that
ia bad conductor of heat. The best ma
terial for this purpose, is one that contains
the largest amount Of air, inasmuch as the
air is the best non-conductor known. Un.
doubtedly the best substance to be used
for filling is pulverized charcoal; next TO
this. we would use saw dust tan bark OF
tanners shavings. If saw dust IS used
that comes from green wood, 1t Is liable to
ferment and give off heat. Saw dust that
has lain some time in the water, as 1t IRE
quently does below saw mills, is very ex
cellent for the purpose. Some advocate
putting in the filling wet, but we incline
| to the opinion that dry filling is better, a.
il holds more air and is not liable to freeze
and cause the walls to get out OF place. a
| foot or more of the same substance usec
between the walls should be placed on the
top floor, after the ice is packed


A double roof is not needed, as the ma
terial above the floor is sufficient protec
ton. A good, tight roof, however, shoule
| be put on as for other buildings, ana IL L
best to give it good pitch and to have
the ewes project down good distance, st
as TO shade the walls and to prevent Tho
warm rain from striking them. u Is vel