Year: 1868

Translated from LIE Follet for the Tribuae.


The crinolinc, which it was believed at
one time would disappear, will resume
more authority than ever this winter. 1t
is true that it will no longer come out in
the shape of bell, but rumor says that it
will rather take the form of basket. The
toilet which her Majesty the Empress has
worn at the opening of the Chambers fore
shadows this fashion Of Queen Marie An
toinctte. 1t would, in fact, not have been
consequential to keep up the fashion Of
loose fitting skirts with long trains unless
people wished to give themselves the
appearance Of spectres. Loose fitting cos
tunes were not anyhow very graceful, ex-
cept for quite young ladies'; the round
skirt only might perhaps have adapted
itself to that order Of things, but its pro-
portions were too moderate to be ad-
missible as an official toilet for any
length of time. The widely spread skirt
with train will therefore be the order of
the day again for ball costumes, as well as
for walking and even morning dresses
The last pattern Of the present month
confirms the truth Of my assertion. 1t is
velvet dress Of claret color, composed Of
q short skirt over a satin under skirt of
the same shade, forming very long train.
The lower part Of the velvet skirt is
faced with o stripe of sable three cent?
metres wide. Above this stripe run five
narrow satin cords corresponding with the
shade of the dress. The velvet cassock is
half tho length of the skirt, and loose
fitting. Along the seams of the sleeves
are folds of satin, also faced with narrow
sable stripes. It's only ornament is COM
posed of a satin sash Of the same color,
apparently dropping from the waist to the
lower part of the dress, and provided with
knot, ending in two wide lappets behind.
Each floating end Of the sash is provided
with sable tail. The hatis of claret- -cOlored
velvet and lined with sable, being likewise
ornamcnted on the right side with the
tail of that little animal. The inside
of the bonnet is composed Of a fur band
crossed by narrow gold band. Small
straight feathers, half brown and half
gold, bend a little toward the front at the
end of the band. This toilet seems q
little eccentric, but completely intcrprcts
the present taste. 1t is one Of the regular
types adopted for winter fashion. There
are also many cloth toilets made, lined
with fur. Plush and dotted or striped
velvet are also much i'll vogue yet. For
Young ladies it is customary to use silk
poplin or satin, or velvet talleta. or
course satin and velvet merely servo as
light trimmings on these walking dresses.
The following is a very graceful pattern of
that description: The skirt is made Of
plain poplin of fine gold brown color. 1t
is ornamentcd with fold of the same ma
terial, all striped with satin cord. This
fold repeats itself on the seams of the
sleeves, the cuffs, the pockets, and the
round belt, through Which runs satin
sash, with streamers behind. Very small
knots are on the satin cords at a short dis
tance from each other, and form very
graceful complement to the fold. The small
round paletot is Of the same material, and
bordered with the same ornament, Which
is also repeated round small carrick,
partly covering the shoulders. The head
dress is a round velvet cap lined with
satin, having small golden aigrette at the
top. There is but one step from visiting
toilets to ball costumes, and almost every
official saloon is already opened. A heavy
silk skirt of light green color, with
long train, presents splendid appearance.
The lower part is trimmed with white
crane with small knots Of fine gold cord,
and microscopic at the top. A white Grape
veil sprinkled with gold is fastened on one
side by gold cords, with tassels while the
other side is looped by green sash with
gold fringes. The waist is composed of
small corselct of green silk, bordered with
gold cords. The front is laced with
golden cord, the tassels falling down from
Tho noipts of the waist. W hite Grape
shows itself from under the corselet, like
an expanded flower from its calyse.
On the shoulders and in the mid
die of the waist are knots of gold cord
with very small tassels. The head
dress is light green velvet roll,
with golden cord. 1t rises little in the
shape of a diadem above the blonde ringets
in front, twists itself into the chignon, and
falls on the shoulders all fringed with gold.
A golden butterfly with emerald body sur
mounts this distinguished-lo looking couture.
For Young ladies the lightest material and
the most simple ornaments are selected.
A white tulle or Chamberg gauze skirt
ornamented with few puffings, few
knots of ribbon, and wreath of flowers
the whole provided with sash-that's all
that is needed. What prefer in the way
of head-dress to any other is cluster of
flowers at the temples, or small wreath
on the head. The more simple toilet, the
better, la Marie Antoinette knotted on
the chest, or with long floating lappets be-
hind, is much worn. A waist of black
gimpure and velvet is likewise we'll
adapted for graceful dinner or small party