Year: 1868

On ffsanspAdutlnS lFeeSs

 The proper season forNransplanting va ries with different cultivators. Many pre- fer autumn planting, and the reason they give for their preference is this: When trees are planted in autumn, they say, the ground becomes better settled about the roots of the trees, and they are then en- abled to throw out fbers in the spring

 We greatly prefer spring planting for nearly all varieties of trees, for this req son: If planted in the fall, very soon af- ter setting out, the trees have the heavy fall rains, which render the loose earth round the trees perfect mortar, and the wind then blows the tree to and fro, mak- ing circle or hole around the tree exter nally, about three inches from the trunk all around, which freezes hard at night, and presents in the morning a rock wall around the tree, and as the hole is about six inches larger than the collar of the tree, it chafes off the bark around at the collar, and unless some manure is placed by it the frost will extend down around the tree and freeze the small roots-Still we have seen good success in fall planting of apples and pears and quinces. The following brief rules may be some guide to those who have not had any experience in setting outtrees

 l. Never plant a tree until the ground has been first well pulverized To plant trees in holes. as many persons do 2. Deep planting is great error in this coun- try, and more die from this than any other cause. They may thrive for a year or two, but soou die, and apparently without any other cause The fbrous or surface roots should net be more than an inch and half or two inches below the surface of the ground. 3. Commence planting by talk

 ing out the earth foot or more in depth, and of sufficient width to admit all the roots without crowding, bending or break ing them. If the soil is poor, compost, well,decayed; rotten, manure; wood-ashes, or a little lime (if the tree planted is apple or pear) may be thrown advantageously into the hole below the bottom of the roots

 Then fill in among the roots with earth, well mixed with fine compost manure, us- ing the hand to scatter it we'll among the small flores, and do not leave any large holes under the tree to act as miniature cis- terns. 4. Before planting, prune all the roots that have been injured in removal with a sharp knife, but do not cut them of with dull spade, as many do. Shor ten such roots as are too long, and take out those that are too much crowded; avoid injuring or cutting any of the small flores 5. Prune the top and branches of the tree in propotion, or rather more in proportion to the pruning done to the roots. :. Fill the earth firmly in and around the roots. Do not shake the tree any-giving it a few shakes at its base will be sufficient Fill the holes up carefully and do not throw too much ground mat once. Ifdry weath- CT ensues, pail of water may be given to each tree; and the soi around the tree coald be then slightly earthed over to pre-. vent evaporation. Ii hot and dry wealth CT succeeded during the season, then mulch with coarse straw manure, which is best, or straw, hay, leaves, etc In Europe--a custom but seldom thought of in the United States-before planting an orchard the ground is thoroughly subsoiled or trenchplowed to the debth of eighteen inches or two feet, and we consider it the first and most important operation in the preparation of the ground for an orchard, unless the soil be so gravely as to render this process useless. It is impossible for a tree to flourish when it is surrounded by a thick sod-[California Spectator.

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