Year: 1869




The art of dress must be founded on nature
We may assume, without fear of contradiction,
that the dress must have sleeves, or at least,
| apertures for the arms. 1t would seem to to be
almost equally selfevident proposition that
the lower part of the dress should be bifurcate,
and recognize natures endowment of the human
species with legs.


As regards the mechanical principles of dress,
it should obviously fit closely where there is
greatest motion, especially the limbs as you ap-
proach the hands and feet. But, while the
hands may often be sufficiently dsengaged to
allow the ornament of drapery sleeves, this IS
never possible for the feet when in use. 1t will
be found by experiment that any loose clothing
below the knee, whather uninfurcate d bifar--
cate, is q serious impediment to locon1btfbns
AS fitness prescribes beauty, the pentalette
about the ankle is, therefore, always an abom-


nation; and, to the unsophisticated eye, the


&C Brcomer,' or street sweeping costume, would
doubtless appear even more ludicrous and un-
calmly than the Bloomer.


In the same manner the masculine pantaloon
of the present day, loose below the knee, is an
obstruction to motion, as we'll untidy, waste
fulness and deformity. The present loose leg
gin and detestible masculine boot must ulti-
mately be replaced with CATERS and shoes or
close fitting boots for reasons of economy, efi
cheney or elegance.


No female costume is more beautiful in this
department than that of the Swiss peasant,
which consists simply of ornamental stockings
and pretty shoes, with skirt only reaching to
the knees. This allows freedom of motion, and
is good for working, or walking or dancing.
The Swiss stocking in winter obviously can be
supplemented with the gaiter, fur adorned, and
made either of the most durable or elegant ma
terials.


Not only for freedom, however, but for beauty,
the contour of the leg, which is not inferior to
that of the arm, should be preserved in dress.
How beautiful often, the simple costume of
young girls, before it is considered proper to
smother their limbs under extinguisher
the conventional page of theatres fur
nishes some Suggestions for the ensemble of
new female costume, including the full, slashed,


silken trowsers above the knee.
For the upper part of the dress the Grecian


tunic and undervest is always beautiful There


are many who may insist at least in the earliest


stage of this REFORM that the skirt of the female


dress shall be distinguished from the masculine


coat by closure. If this confession to the cur


rent ideas or prejudices OF the Western nations


be necessary, emphatic protest should be made


against the frock, which is thing with q belt,


cutting the figure in two, oblterating all
blance of the natural lines, and curves of the
| human form divine. If the closed skirts is to
be adopted as part of the new costume, let us
have the Gabrielle with the skirt just to the
knee. For working dress for either sex, a
blouse with belt may be worn, but this is not
properly costume.


The new head-dress will in no event be bon
net, nor stove-pipe hat But there is an infin-
ite range of graceful hats and head gear, French
and otherwise, to select from.


The costume proper of the sexes must vary,
we think, not only on account of marked differ
enccs in physical conformation, but also in ac-
cordance with the diverse proportions of
strength and beauty awarded to tho sexes, and
the uses thence proceeding. Thus the female
dress will be richer and more varied in material
and adornment than the male, and portions of it
may often be less closely fitting. The dresses
of the sexes will at any rate approximate much
more nearly than at present, and women will
find much less difficulty in ob!terating all dis
tinction of costume when this is required for
safety or NEUTRALITY-SUSPICIOUS..