Year: 1868

satin, rOucauX and medltinWldt 1Ilngc8. NO IOOsc
sleeves were seen or garments of any sort


Tho most notable dress displayed was pigeon
gray silk notable for luster aud quality with plain
waste and full train two and half yards long, The
trimming was simple in design, yet highly effective;
the skirt bordered by two inch bias fold of the silk
piped with satin. and set at small intervals with
rosettcs of quilted silk the centers Of which were
grape clusters and leaves in marcaste. or the new
polished steel which is largely used this season for
ornament This is 50 prepared that it will not tar
nish in the air. The side widths swept round on the
back and plated half way up the skirt and held
by large rosette with steel center, the band and
medaions coming up the outside of the shell-like
curve. A low Vatican bodice defined on the
high cOrsage. and the round throat finished by a
fringe OF gray drops and steel three inches deep
the center of the fringe, at the back was placed
satin bow with rOsctte and ends of folded silk, each
set with three rOsettes, and frnged which fell half
way down the back. A bow and rosette with shorter
ends was on the bosom. The close sleeves were fin
ished by a bas-band and rosette on the cuf. The
price of this elegant dress was 800


dress of pink-striped gauze, in hairnes with full
train attracted attention by itsnovel trimming which
was full fold of pink satin outlining court train
with tunc front in angles of relief finished by shad
ed pink fringe made of quill shavings, which looked
like ustrOus feather fringe The bertha was OF satin
rouleaux and quill fringe. In front two crescent pus
at the knee were separated by satin folds; a cluster
of pink satin leaves ornamcnted an angle OF the tu-
mic at the side, and a satin sash fell behind.


One of the most distinguished dresses was a black
French grenadine dotted all with cut jet seed
beads, and eaborately trimmed with black guipure
sparkling with jet. This disappeared early in the
day. and was replaced by another, ingeniously orna-
mented with small hewer patterns in black silk ap-
pliqu6 the edges wrought in chain stitch. The
gauflred fOunCe and fichu thus trimmed with
the effect of embroidery.


seaside dress of white and green silk, striped in
hair lines half inch apart, had plain front, and
plated aounco coming to the side seams; the over
dress was apple green mohalr, with square necked
corsagc the skirt open in front and rounding away;
the back hanging loose in two box plaits from the
neck 0uilled on the side seams of the skirt with
ruiile.


black silk walking dress had three narrow van
dyked nounccs headed by rouoauX of satin anda silk
ruiiie the upper skirt was ooped high in the back
and caught slightly on the hips; the border WAS OF
chantilly lace over two inches wide.


second black silk suit had staircase trimming of
triple satin folds with rich fringcs headed by pas
sementerie on the horizontal lines Of the design.
The edge was q fOunce Of fat haf-inch plaitS held
one way by folds of silk and satin. The demi-ad-
juste jacket was trimmed with satin folds, and
frnged all round. An outre jacket had long pointed
hood-pece falling below the waist with knots OF
black silk up the center of the hood the long crescent
fronts crossing and the ends carried under the
Jacket behind forming paner drapery the hips.
Only the scndcTest of figures could carry this sort OF
festooning about the hips with any grace. street
garment Of black silk was loose with deep plating
set squarely into the skirts In front plated
aJ,,o t;,i tho hacks which lOODed behind,
and have plated bolt


A street suit of pearl-colored poplin had double
skirt, the lower one bordered by five rouleaux of
satin the upper one with five cOrd-like rolls on each
seam open straight behind the widths Joined by two
satin straps and frnged bow in the center OF
each cord fringe with floss ends all round the upper
jupe. The mantla fronts of the sack were bordered
with satin rouleaux, the pointed throat edged with
points of gray satin some shades different from the
dress, as was all the trimming. indeed, giving an
agreeable contrast. The halfftting back and close
sleeve had three rouleaux on every seam, and the
Jacket was fringed 10 match the skirt.


Pretty evening wraps were burnons of white
Grape de chine delicate wool and silk fabric like the
finest thinnest cashmere. These neither more
nor less than wide scarfs folded thrice together on
one edge TO form hood and sleeye-ike openings for
the arm. They were picturesque garments with blue
or ecolored borders wrought in chain-sitch and
beads fringed with white and colored eTimped
frnges and tassols dropping from every point Man
ties, suitable for elderly ladies' were of fine black
cloth embroidered and fringed in gold, handsome to
wear with black silk dresses.


A new mode OF ornament for dresses was shown on
a lilac grenade robc, which bore twig work and
large pansy spray down the center of each width in
applique Of shaded silk the same color neatly
stitched on. This applique was observed on several
thin dresses.


A white organdy had deep finely plated border
over which fell piece Of horizontal tucking very
finely done cut into batlements edged with quilted
white chantlyl and headed by a wide insertion OF
the same lace. In front, at the waist, was short
apron of tucking cut in shapes and trimmed with
lace; from this wide scarf of muslin edged with
twonch chantilly, fOated each side behind, and was
looped together by q large rosette OF purple satin
ribbon. 1ounce and waist of muslin wero laid al
ternatey in vertical double box plats spread
at the top, and wide insertions of Maltese lace two
inches more apart. pretty hche and sash were
of organdy In fine horizontal tucks edged with valen-
ciennes and double rows Of pointed tucked tabs.