Year: 1859

OPENING OF THE SPRING FASHIONS.


From the N. Y. Express, March3il


This event, looked for with impatience by
the ladies, took place to-day at most of the
millinery establishments. The numbers that
thronged the exhibition rooms, gay with the
brilliant creations of taste, were even greater
than on the last occasion though usually the
Spring openings are of less interest than those
preceding the season Of winter dissipation.
Many interested spectators were modistes from
the country and remote cities, who in their
turn were TO todispense the commands of Fashion
In their smaller circles.


THE BoNSErs.


ms Is the first department opened and the
chief that attracts attention. But slight changes
are discernible in the shape Of the Spring bon
nets-. Ihe crowns are triee larger and more
dropping; the front comes more over the face,
and Il decidedly pointed; the trimming is not
prOfuse, and the fayorite cOlors in thin ma
teriai will be scagreen and lilac. StrawS are
prevalent. We saw one of a dark drab color,
trimmed on the top with novelty in "straw
lace" drab and brown, mixed with ribbon OF
e0lors to match, edged with border of scarlet
PLAID; A scarlet velvet bandeau and bows,
with blonde ruche inside.


The bandeau, crossing the ton of the fore
head, has taken the place of the wreaths a
llmPeratrice, 30 much in vogue last fall.


A green Grape bonnet, bound with silk and
edged with blonde. was very pretty. A cluster
OF white roses formed the trimming The in
side was plain, with bandeau and bows. A
fancy straw was edged with brown velvet rib
hon; fold of brown silk being turned hack
from tho front. The inside trimming consisted
Of blue velvet with blonde ruehe


In Bond street establishment we saw some
exqulsitely fine straws, with new trimmings of
straw One had bundle of barley sheafs on
enc side, with straw tassels on the other: a
black lace barbe forming the outside trimming,
with ribbon tastefully wreathed with straw
cord. A bonnet Of delicate seagreen Grape
was covered with barbe of the same, edged
with white blonde; clusters of white clematis
decorated the Outside inside was a bsndeau of
small box plaits edged with narrow black lace,
with clusters Of moss rose buds in tho ruchc.
chip edged with blonde, had purple and
green trimming.


beautiful article was made of lilac silk
PLAN on the foundation and covered entirely
with point lace The trimming was white
feathers tipped with lilac. Inside lilac band
was covered with white tulle, with white roses
and narrow black lace barbe on one side.


"A pink Grape, trimmed with blonde that
oVerhung the cape, had a striking effect A
small cluster Of roses and sprays Ornamented
the top and back Of the crown. There was
quilting of white blonde on the inside and a
bow with pink strings. An effective novelty
was bonnet of dark blue Grape, edged with
white blonde and trimmed with coiffure of
the same. Inside were white flowers the
strings white ribbon.


style Of trimming entirely new for the in
side, consisting Of white tulle dotted with black
and varied with colored ribbon A fne straw
bonnet had a delicate net of black thread
pulled over the top, and confined on the ton
with full rufie Of real black blonde Both
crown and front were slashed with light blue
sink. Three blue blue silk roses adorned the
cape, which was slashed like the crown. An
other delicate straw, trimmed with lilac and
buff ribbon. twined with straw cord had a spe-
eies of coiffure of black Maltese lace, falling
over the front, and fringing the cape One
string was buff, the other lilac ribbon


At another establishment, We saw a bonnet
composed OF gray straw network laid over
white Grape. The front was of split straw; the
ribbon trimming gray, with eOlored edges
Flowers and black lace inside. Another was
made of open black net laid over white A
NeapOlitan straw had fall of black lace over
white ribbon. The cape was white, with black
lace heading, aud white blonde drooped over
the front Scarlet flowers and lace formed the
trimming, with white strings A split straw
with soft crown Of buff silk was very pretty.


MOURNING EOSSErS


general tightening will be noticeable in
mourning. The conventional requisitiOn of
Grape stTIDgs-sO Objectionable in warm wealth
er-hss given away to black ribbon; and
ruches Of black and sometimes white tulle, the
former with blonde edging, replace the Sc
we're plaltS OF Grape, even in the deepest
mourning. At Jackson's establishments, we
saw several beautiful Grape bonnets, trimmed
either with box plaits or massive folds of the
same on the outside, without bows or flowing
ends. One had a cluster of Grape flowers, with
long grass; the strings Grape with two tucks
One Of white Spanish Grape had a coiffure Of
black thread lace, and a barbe of the same
he ha bai IL
was enliyened with q jessamine wreath; the
white striEgs were bordeTed with black


A bonnet made of white uncut velvet ribbon
edged with purple, looked decidedly lively.
Clusters Of jets and daisies trimmed the front
and cape. A putting Of nialine lace finished
the front. White cap inside, and long white
strings. Another was made of puffings of layon-
der and white silk, plain on the front The
thin crown was eneircled with sweet pea bios
SONS, and bow cf ribbon, quilted on one side.
finished the outside. Inside, tendril of sweet
pea blossoms; long strings.


purple and white silk over a foundation of
blace, trimmed with clusters of violets and pur-
pie velvet leaves, and two streamers confined
by loop, was effective; but we rather dislike
purple and lilac in mourning.


AANTILLAs, &c.


Not much new in this department has yet
been exhibited. The weather is so uncertain,
that few have laid aside their furs and winter
cloaks. In few days, light shawls will take
the place of these, and then articles made for
summer wear will be shown One or two man
tillas we have seen at Jackson's, prepared for
distant customers, were Of black silk fOuneed
the founce trimmed at the top and bottom with
close quilting Of love-" ribbon Fsur rows
of the same crossed the back and front in bertha
fashion, and row descended down the front
Another had stripes Of embossed velvet. Box
plai;s Of embossed ribbon form fayorite trim
ming. .rs


Quite novelty was a shawl of black cassi-
mere, richly embroidered with silk, and bor-
dered with two French lace founces, headed
with jet trimming. The price was S35. The
French basque, with coat sleeve, will probably
be made in silk.


We noticed some Circassian cloth shawls, with
coIored borders, delicately printed in imitation
Of embroidery. These are worn in second
mourning.


Mantillas of plsin black lace, with " Albam-
bra crossings Of Grape beading over four bias
folds Of Grape, are very pretty for mourning.
One of Brussells lace foundation had three
folds alternating with three rows of beading,
TO the neck the founce trimmed with four
folds Of eraPe.


DRESS MATERIALS AND MAKING.


a new kind Of silk called the Ottoman