Year: 1869

to him and not to the Spanard. He was supreme in all


graceful and elegant traits. in the rehnements OF life
aud of art in many of the works which hostile
civilization has agreed to consider the highest proofs
of its development. The Alhambra is building


without rival in Europe-for the Alcazar at Seville,


though of the same type is immensely inferior, and
is not rival, being the work of the same people.
Here and nowhere else is the place to study the
chronicles of the Moors and to understand little of
| the spirit which animated them. 1t is nearly 400
wears since the Moor departed, and to-day he is the
ruling genius of Granada. The Spaniards have done
their best to desplse him. and their worst to Obter


ate the traces of his superiority but the tradition of
their rivals greatness will not die out and the pro-


test of Europe finally forced them to treat with
spect the ruins of the palace they had half over
thrown and everywhere deGled


One thingyou will long to do. but will not be per-
mitted, to wander quito alone about the palace.
Lock and key are put the entrance, and the por-
terenters with every visitor-an Indispensable pre-
caution, so long tourists what they are After


few visits if good relations have been established
between the visitor and the porter. he longer
thinks it necessary to be actually in the same hall or
court with you, and unless others waiting. you
may linger as long as you like. For the interior,
guide is of even less than outside; any hand
book gives the details and every historical or archi
tectura interest is perfectly recognizable There arc
the reddish stains on the marble in the hail. whore
the Abencerrages wero murdered and which has
ever since borne their name. There is the Court of
Myrtles, in which the myrtles still border the tank
of cool water which gives it its other and less poet
ical namo of the Alberca, or fsh-pond. The quaint
Lions still guard the court which is called after
them, and if there are more ambassadors in the
hall which used to receive foreign Ministers, it still


retains its noble entrance its dome-like artesonado
ceiling and the deep windows from which genera
tions of Moorish kings looked out on Wow of in
comparable beauty. The baths the mradOr, or Sui
tana's balcony. the halls of justice, the Hcrmanas,
with the two broad slabs of white marble in the


oor-for none of these do you want any other guide
than your book, is the minutest information
about all of them worth half so much the knowl-
edge and the impression which como to you III mus
ing over them alone.


] have read somewhere perhaps in Gautier's book,
that on the first view of the Alhambra two disap-
pointments must be got over. Every one expects to
of vast proportions and decorations costly
IN material. The truth is, there is no room impress
sive by its size, and all the ornamentaton is In
stucco Bnt you soen understand that grandoso
effects would be out of place in n palace which was,
after all, dwelling house. and that such n variety
and exuberance Of arabesques would be impossible
in marble. Big palaces may DO seen anywhere are
piled up for show and to run away from. Lous
found he could not endure the wearisome maglif-
cence Of Versailles and built the Trianon. and when
even that became oppressive, took refuge in the
Petit Trianon But the Moor had to put his palace
inside fortress and he had neither space for huge
ediiices nor secure retreat elsewhere. And for
the stucco decoration it literally every inch
Of the walls of every abovethc glazed wainscot
ing It's delcacy is almost microscopic more ntri-
cate than coral and as fine as the yeining OF leat
Compare it with what there is most fragile and sub
tic in Gothic architecture. The lacework on the
west portal Of Rouen becomes and clumsy If
the difference of material is not considered
Or compare il with the cimboris of the Burgos ca
thedral. or better still, with tho monument in the
convent OF Aranores, raised by Isabella to her pa
rents which is perhaps unequaed in the world as a
specimen Of elaborate and delicate carving in marble
and alabaster All such works that could be col |
ected in Europe all that the incredible energy of the
Gothic intellect and hand in their most orid deve
opr1ent achieved in centuries Of toll would not
the walls Of this single Moorish palace. Indeed |
there is very little oft 50 little that few specimens
like ROuen are famous the world over. deserving |
their fame also proofs of what can be done with
an ntTactable material like stOne-used, moreover
for exterior decoration or for cathedral interiors, not
for the walls Of ehambeIs 1t does not need much re-
Election 10 convince you that the Moorish genius ro
quged softer medium FOR its expression, and as
marble is common enough while good arabesques are
rare. and there IS but one Alhainbra in Europe we
shall do well not TO quarrel with what is left u.s. nor
complain Of the architects for not attempting impOs
sibiites The 12S columns Of the Court of Lions arc
of white marble but even there the effect of mas
siyeness docs not occur aud would be wholly ont OF
place The solid marble in Moorish hands becomes
SO bnoyant tat this cOurt where alone, 1t is used In
profusion is the ghtest bit of fGrywork IN all the
palace. The lyhtness is not due to any dex-
terity Of carvinG but to the sendeIness Of the
columns and the perfect art OF their arrangement
and proportion There is endless variety Of perspec
tyes and the grouping of the pillars changes with
every step and at every point Of view. Although
tbe d,mensions Of the court are but 16 by Go feet
There is bere-and nowhere else in the Alhambra
;tsef-the sense Of space, to which, Iperhaps, the
openness Of the court adds something. 1t must be
seen by moonlight as every court and external view
of the Albalnbra must also be- The cearness OF the
a4,oosphere in Granada so delicious in itself, reveals
TOO plainly tie defects that time and earthquakes
have wronrht and the worse injuries inflicted
by French AID spanards whose hands fell heavier
on this structure than tho earthquake Much as has
bAen dono by skillful restoration the moonlight is
the best restorer Of all.


Rebina the Alhambra rises tho Lii called the Seat
Of tbe Moor whence the Moorish kings used to watch
tbe bat.les in the plain below. Yon must climb 1t
for yourself; no guide VIII fatigue his precious


limbs for Tho sake Of tie matchlcss view 1T discoses
What makes Granada Incompatible is the variety OF
us scopepy. There is ridge not far beyond the
Moors Scat better worth visiting than all the second
rate celebrities which guide VIII be happy 70 SNOW
,ou ~ q va francs a day. The ascent is nothing;


a1v who is tolerablo walker can reach the point in
AN hour from the Ahambra. On the right lie masses


f ,.b hare rtpped mountains as scarcely exist out