First off, if you want to do this right, I recommend pulling something like hoses/ pipes that are made for the purpose with the inner diameter of at least 25 mm (~4 Cat6A cables) to each outlet where you want to connect any data cables. Of course, as you collect the cables, use larger pipes, e.g. 32 (~8 Cat6A cables), 40 (~12 Cat6A cables and a bit of headroom) or even 50 mm. Each second 90° bend make sure you can access that easily, e.g. by having a box there or an easy to remove ceiling panel or whatever. Especially in European homes that are literally made of bricks and concrete usually placing pipes/ conduits/ wires is more or less a one-time thing that is extremely time consuming, dusty etc. you don't wont to redo anything if possible.

In these pipes or whatever you used you can usually pull any cable. If it gets stuck, you have at most 1 bend to pull back even if you lost the thread/ wire with which you can pull the wire, you can probably push the sturdy Cat 6A cable through with a bit of wrapping and soaping the end of the cable.
If you later decide, you want fiber, it can be pulled through this with relative ease. Just make sure you don't pull harder than the spec of the cable says. Armored cables are thicker but you can pull on the much harder. Soaping the cable beforehand usually makes the pulling easier. Soap does not leave stains like oil or similar lubricants do, just use the most basic yellow hard soap there is a bit of water to make it soft.

Use shielded cables, ideally Cat 6A. It's a one-time investment. Yes, the cables are thicker and harder to bend - therefore the pipes and bend radiuses. But thanks to the, usually per pair and per cable shielding makes it much easier to push. I many cases, especially if you can buy the 2x cables that have their jackets welded together, you can just skip the pull-wire. Always pull two wires to a socket and use Cat 6A keystones to terminate them.
I like to have 3 sockets per room. Like the living room, office etc. I have one wall (usually the one with windows) without a socket, on the wall next to the window wall I have a (dual-)socket nearer to the windows. Usually about 60 cm from the end of the wall nearer to the windows. On the wall opposite to the window wall I tend to have a (dual-)socket in the middle of the wall. This triangular setup tends to work well even if you move furniture a lot. In case the socket is in a way, you can just stick the keystoned cables back into the wall a bit and place a cover there. I also like to have a cable or two in the ceiling. Usually above the door isn't the worst idea. Placing an AP above the door works well and usually want be covered by some furniture. It tends to be a good place for a camera/ alarm whatever sensor you need too. If you know, in a certain place you will have definitely all ports filled from the start, make another dual-socket there.

Buy a small rack in the central place where you collect all the wires. Use 24 port per 1U patch panels with key stones. Try to have grounding for the rack. All the cable shields can collect a lot of charge. You can have an electrician measure that you don't have some ground loops or whatever. Also, if you have a wireless antenna for internet access on the roof, you want to have a fuse coupling where it enters the house. Terminating this in the rack that is grounded is another safety feature.
Run power to the rack on a separate circuit if possible. Make sure there is some space left for a small UPS and a switch. Try to place the cable/ fiber modem in here if possible or create a run to the place where you have the ISP socket. Usually, you can just plug in a longer cable on the ISP side of the modem and have the modem be plugged into your UPS, nicely stashed in the network cabinet/ wall mounted rack or whatever. If that's not possible you can at least have a solid ethernet run into your rack from there. For flats or small homes a 7-8U wall mounted rack is minimum. Try to have at least 45 cm of depth, ideally 60 cm or more, especially if you think about some server gear. I don't think you can get a wall mounted rack with a depth of more than 60 cm. Try to leave some space on top of the rack for easier cooling and manipulation.

Each cable should probably have about 1,5 meters extra in the rack. You can make a loop there or something. If you damage a socket for some reason or you need to take the patch panel out of the rack for easier installation/ placing key stones or just need a bit of slack for better cable management, you will need the extra length. You will thank me later when you can comfortably install or adjust things.

Number all cables on each end on the jacket with a unique number. Also write that number on the socket and the patch panel. That can be generic, like A-1 (patch panel A, first connector). You should have a floor plan where each sockets ends and what cable that is. It is not a bad idea to test every connection that it actually does at least a stable Gigabit connection. (Just dd a big random file like a video over ssh to the other side and back over netcat.) There should be no errors on the interface (check with ethtool -S eth0)

In general, don't be cheap on these things if you are building your family's residence or something. You will never use all cables, you will certainly have a place where you wish you had more cables. That happens. But you will be generally able to solve most problems with this setup sufficiently without much work once it's done.

Experience: I did some retrofitting of this setup in a flat with brick walls. Ran the pipes in the walls about 20 cm under the ceiling. I used sockets and a patch panel without keystones, just directly punched in the fixed ports. In another flat I ran on-wall guide rails/ white cable holders with covers also under the ceiling but the cables were terminated with nice keystones. I helped a then-friend make the wiring for their whole home when it was in complete renovation or basically rebuilt the house. I have assisted some company/ enterprise wiring projects.