however , towards the end of the day i caught a wave too late and got sucked under and pounded straight on my back . and if that was n't bad enough , the board landed on me and my bikini bottoms were pulled down to my knees .

Question: The next day the waves look good , will this woman be ready to surf again ?
Answer: No , she needs to find her bikini bottoms before she can surf again .Surfing is a job , late waves , being hit by the board and pulled under are part of it .None of the above choices .While there is risk being sucked under , this person likes the reward of a wave .