In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Make sure the surface you're going to tile is swept and clean of any debris, especially if you're in the middle of more major renovations or construction. Make certain the existing floor is flat, solid, and well bonded to the sub-floor. The floor and subfloor together should be at least 1-1/8" thick. Follow the manufacturer directions, mixing the appropriate amount of water with the mortar in a bucket. The mortar should be thick, a similar consistency to mud, but not so thick that is doesn't fall off a trowel. Don't mix more thin-set than you can use within an hour, or it will begin to dry out. Spread the mortar quickly, but also evenly. Use firm sweeping motions with the trowel. If you want to reinforce the floor with cement board, score it with a utility knife before laying it over the thin-set mortar. Pound in roofing nails along the edge to secure the backer board to the floor. Continue until the floor is covered and apply a thin layer of thin-set mortar over the joints. In the meantime, you can prepare the reference lines to make sure the tile will be laid evenly. If you simply start laying tile along a crooked wall, it will look really crooked by the time you reach the opposite wall, so you need to use a mason's chalk line (a piece of string covered with chalk dust that you can snap into place) to establish easily-removable reference lines. Identify the most visible wall when you walk into the room. This is the wall with the longest area of continuous tile. Determine a 90-degree angle from that wall, using a square, and snap a chalk line across the room. Use the square again to mark a perfect 90-degree angle from that chalk line and snap another chalk line that's perpendicular to the first one. Now you have two intersecting chalk lines as a reference to lay the first tile.
Summary: Prepare the floor. Mix a batch of thin-set mortar. Spread a layer of thin-set on the sub-floor with the notched trowel. Cut the cement board to fit the space. Wait until the next day to begin laying tile. Establish a straight vertical and horizontal reference line from the center of the room.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You can purchase clover seeds at garden stores, at most home and hardware stores, and online. You'll need roughly 2 ounces (57 g) of clover seeds per 1,000 square feet (93 square meters) of lawn. The most popular types of clovers for lawns are Dutch White (a perennial that grows to 8 inches, or 20 centimeters) and Microclover (a durable clover that has small leaves and short stems). Inoculated clover seeds of any variety are also popular, because it means you don't have to inoculate them yourself. Inoculation is the process of coating the seeds with a nitrogen-fixing bacterium that allows the clover to produce its own nitrogen. Be sure to store these seeds in a cool, dark place. The best time to plant clover is in spring or summer. To plant in spring, make sure the last frost has occurred, and that nighttime temperatures are staying above 40 F (4 C). The best time to seed clover is between mid-March and mid-August. In warmer areas, you can plant clover in September and October, but plant it at least six weeks before the first frost. In the warmest areas where winters are mild and there's rarely snow or freezing temperatures in winter, you can plant clover all year round. Depending on the size of your lawn, you may have conditions that vary greatly from one area to another, so some areas may not be ideal for clover. Clover is very hardy and will even grow in partial shade, but it will do best when it gets between four and six hours of sunlight per day. Where possible, prune and trim trees, hedges, and brush to ensure the clover gets enough light.
Summary: Buy clover seed. Plant according to the season and weather. Choose a sunny location.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Combine a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water in a bowl and mix until it becomes a thick paste. You will need enough of the paste to completely cover the rust, so keep the bowl, baking soda, and water nearby in case you need to make more. Baking soda is generally best at minor rust removal. Severe rusting may respond better to other methods. Add a squirt of lemon juice to the paste for strengthened removal properties. Dab the paste on a brush or sponge and apply it to the rusty bike. Do not scrub or remove the paste immediately: it will need time to set and break down the rust. Let the paste sit for about 10 to 15 minutes. The baking soda paste should be thick enough to evenly coat the rust patch without dripping off of the bike. Using a plastic scrubber or steel wool, scrub the baking soda solution. As you scrub, you should notice the rust breaking down and detaching from the bike. If you do not notice this, add more of the baking soda paste to the bike and scrub with more force. Use a toothbrush as an alternative if no scrub pads are available. After you are finished scrubbing, leave the baking soda on for about 10-15 minutes to reach stubborn rust. Then, wipe off the paste with a dry microfiber cloth. Make sure the bicycle is completely dry to prevent further rusting. Store the bike in a cool, dry place to keep the rust from returning. If there is still some rust left over, repeat the same process again or try another method.
Summary:
Mix baking soda and water in a bowl. Put the paste directly on the rust for about 15 minutes. Scrub the baking soda with a scrub pad. Wait about 10 minutes before wiping off the baking soda.