To ensure that your new shower door fits correctly, you'll need to take 3 separate measurementsthe total length of the threshold, the threshold's halfway point, and the height of the walls up to 5 feet (1.5m). These numbers will help you find the necessary dimensions for each of the door rails. Note the distance between the opening of the shower and any nearby plumbing fixtures, such as the toilet or sink, to leave adequate clearance. Record the measurements of the shower stall on a separate piece of paper in case you need to refer to it at any point during the installation process. The style you go with will largely be a matter of preference. That being said, the size of your shower can impact the look and function of the door. Swinging doors tend to be better suited for small shower stallsthose that measure 48 inches (120cm) or less from wall to wallwhere limited space makes it easier to have a single large door. For enclosures that are greater than 60 inches (150cm) across, a pair of sliding doors will economize space by offering a more practical pattern of movement. Should you decide to put in a sliding door, the measurement for the threshold's halfway point will become important, as this is where the edges of the 2 separate door panels will overlap when closed. Compare different sizes and styles of doors to find one that matches your shower enclosure. Use a fine-toothed hacksaw to trim the metal piece to match the measurement of the threshold. The length of the base track should correspond exactly to that of the threshold in order to fit snugly in the stall opening. A miter box can help you make cleaner, more precise cuts. Go over the sawed ends with a metal file to smooth them down. Be sure to vacuum up any stray metal shavings afterward to keep them from leaving scratches on the bathroom floor. Position the piece over the raised threshold, using a tape measure to look for an equal amount of space on either side. See that the alignment is carefully adjustedif it's off by even 0.75 inches (1.9cm), the door may not shut correctly. Mark the placement of the base track with a pencil. That way, you'll be able to easily recenter it should it happen to slip while you're working. Once you've got the bottom piece where you need it, run a line of silicone sealant along either side to glue it down. Apply constant pressure to the base track for about a minute until the sealant has dried enough to hold it in place. Most quick-drying sealants will set up within 3-12 hours. However, it may take up to a full day for the sealant to cure completely. To prevent leaks, avoid using the shower until the sealant has had time to dry. Slide the jamb down into the grooved base track. Take a minute to make sure it's both flush (lying flat against the wall) and plumb (perfectly straight). Otherwise, you could end up with small gaps in the finished frame. The hinge-side jamb can be distinguished from the strike-side jamb by the mounting slots for the door hinge on the inner edge. In most showers, the door hinge is placed on the opposite side of the stall from the shower head. Sliding doors won't have specific hinge side and strike side jambs, but the installation of the side rails is essentially the same process. Insert the tip of a pencil into the screw holes running up the face up the hinge-side jamb and make a small dot in each. These dots will be used to indicate where to drive the screws needed to secure the jamb. Grease pencil markings may show up on tile or acrylic shower walls better than graphite. Remove the jamb from the wall and open up the holes using a 316 inch (0.48cm) masonry drill bit. Each screw hole should be roughly 1.75 inches (4.4cm) deep to accommodate the mounting screws. After you've finished drilling the holes, tap in plastic wall anchors to protect the surface of the shower from damage. It may help to notch the screw holes with a small chip or divot to get them started. This will provide a shallow seat for the drill bit, making it less likely to wander. Drill carefully to ensure that each hole is perpendicular to the wall. Place the frame piece against the wall, lining up the screw holes with the ones you just drilled. Have a helper hold the jamb steady while you fit a 1.5 inches (3.8cm) pan-head screw into each hole and drive it down tight. Drill slowly to avoid overtightening. This can create stress fractures on the surrounding frame. Align, mark, drill, and set the wall jamb on the opposite side just as you did the first. When you're finished, you'll have assembled 3 of the 4 frame pieces. Don't forget to confirm the plumb and flush of the piece and insert wall anchors before you fasten the screws. The construction of the strike-side jamb is simpler than that of the hinge-sideit's most often an L-shaped piece that acts as a stop for the door. Pull the shower door closed and extend your tape measure from one side to the other. Mark the dimensions on the frame header and use your hacksaw to cut it to size. Smooth down the raw edge using a metal file. It's important that you measure and cut the upper rail separately, rather than duplicating the dimensions of the base track. It may not be exactly the same width as the bottom of the frame. Lift the top rail onto the upper edges of the door and adjust it until it slides into place. If the header you're working with has screw holes on the end, it should be fastened down for extra security. This piece will complete the fourth and final side of the frame. Many shower door headers are slotted to fit over the the top of the jambs, without the need to join them to the frame separately. For swinging doors, make sure the shorter arm of the header is facing outward so the door can swing open and shut freely.

Summary: Measure the opening of your shower. Choose between a swinging or sliding door. Cut the base track to the appropriate length. Center the base track on the threshold. Secure the base track with silicone sealant. Align the hinge-side jamb with the base track. Mark the screw holes on the wall. Drill the screw holes. Position the jamb and fasten the screws. Repeat with the strike-side jamb. Measure and cut the header rail. Set the header at the top of the frame.

Get 2 to 3 overripe bananas that are starting to turn brown. Peel them, cut them into bite-sized pieces, then freeze them in a plastic freezer bag or container. The size of the banana pieces does not matter. This is simply to make it easier on your blender or food processor. Once the bananas have frozen, transfer them into a blender or food processor. Add 2 to 4 tablespoons (30 to 60 milliliters) of your choice of milk and a pinch of salt. The more milk to add, the smoother the ice cream will be. Whole milk is a great choice, but you can also use non-dairy milk, such as almond or coconut. This recipe is only a base, and it will yield somewhat-banana-flavored ice cream. It is still very delicious, but you can give it more flavor with some tasty extras. For example: For chocolate ice cream, add teaspoon of vanilla extract and 3 tablespoons (22.5 grams) of cocoa powder. For peanut butter ice cream, add 2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 grams) of peanut butter. For cookies'n cream, add 2 tablespoons (30 grams) of coconut butter. Crush up some chocolate sandwich cookies and have them ready for later. Keep blending until the mixture takes on the texture of soft-serve ice cream. From time-to-time, you may want to open up the blender or food processor, and push down any unmixed ice cream towards the bottom with a rubber spatula. If you are making cookies'n cream ice cream, fold in the crushed chocolate sandwich cookies after you blend everything together. Transfer the mixture into a freezer-safe container, such as a Tupperware container or an ice cream container. Place it into the freezer, and leave it there for 30 minutes, or until it becomes scoop-able.
Summary: Peel, cut, and freeze the bananas ahead of time. Place the ingredients into a blender or food processor. Add some extras, if desired. Blend the ingredients. Freeze the ice cream for 30 minutes.