To create a soda can cover to use over a beer can, you will need to have a few things on hand. Here is what you will need: Can of beer (full) Can of soda (empty) Can opener Scissors Metal file Use a can opener to evenly slice off the top of the soda can just under the lip. Be sure to move the can opener slowly around the whole top to prevent tearing to the can or inquiry to yourself. Again, you can use a can opener to take off the bottom portion where the can curves inward. This is where the beer can will fill the indented portion of the base. Use scissors to evenly cut just above the line that separates the silver portion at the bottom. This will ensure that you make a perfectly neat edge all the way around. Find a part of the can which has a line of writing or other line that you can neatly follow for cutting along the side. Cut along this line using scissors, from the base to the top of the can. This will open the can.
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One-sentence summary -- Gather your materials. Remove the entire top of the soda can. Cut off the base of the soda can. Clean up the bottom of the can. Cut the can down the middle.

Q: A header is a solid section of wood that is installed over a doorway on a load-bearing wall in order to redistribute the weight and compensate for the studs that were removed to widen the opening to install the doorway. Use a stud finder to see if the space above your door is a solid header. Look for a solid section of wood that would indicate a header was installed and the wall is load-bearing. If the space above a doorway on the wall is hollow, then it's likely not a load-bearing wall. Check the beneath the wall to see if it's stacked on another wall. Go to the first floor, basement, pilings, or crawlspace and look to see if there are piers or girders underneath the wall that would indicate that it is a load-bearing wall. If there is, then it is likely a load-bearing wall. If the wall you plan to knock down is on the second floor, check to see if there's a wall in the exact same place on the floor below it. Piers or girders look like solid metal beams and are used to support structures. If you see them below your wall, then it means the wall also supports the weight of the building. If you see pylons, which look like large posts, beneath your wall, it means your wall is load-bearing. Be careful crawling beneath the structure to inspect the walls. If the wall runs through the center of the building and is beneath the trusses or frame of the structure, then it may be a load-bearing wall. Just because the wall runs parallel to the framing above it doesn't necessarily mean that it's load-bearing, but it is a sign that it could be and it needs to be confirmed before you try to knock it down. If you see ceiling or floor joists at the edges of the wall, then it's definitely a load-bearing wall. If you have the original blueprints of the building, there should be a key that includes markings to indicate which walls are load-bearing. Look for an "S" which means "Structural" near walls, joists, and other features on the blueprint. Look for the wall you plan to knock down and determine whether it's structural or not. Read the blueprints closely to look for indicators that a wall is load-bearing. Use the key to identify structural features. The best way to determine that a wall isn't load-bearing is to hire a structural engineer to come out and inspect it. They'll be able to analyze the structure and confirm whether or not it's safe for you to knock down the wall. Look online for structural engineers or engineering firms you can pay to inspect your wall. Hiring a structural engineer can cost between $300-$500.
A: Identify load-bearing walls by solid headers above the doorways. Note that stacked walls are structural and shouldn't be removed. See if the wall runs parallel to the frame for signs that it's load-bearing. Review the blueprints to confirm if the wall is structural. Have the wall inspected by a structural engineer to be sure.

Article: Your foal will be more comfortable being weaned in an environment that it is familiar with. About 3 to 4 days before you wean your foal, move it and its mother into a large pen. Keep them in this pen as much as possible, only moving them inside to sleep if need be. It's best to wean 2 or more foals at the same time, so the foals can keep each other company as they are weaned. Remove 1 mare from its foal at a time, waiting at least 1 day before removing the next mare. This will prevent your foals from panicking at the same time and stressing each other further. Once the foal has adjusted to the pen, lead its mother to a new pen or stable far away. Make sure that they cannot hear or see each other, otherwise, the foal will attempt to find its mother and may end up hurting itself. It may help to feed your foal with some hay or creep feed while you move its mother to a different pen. This will keep it distracted and may stop it from panicking as much once it realises it is being weaned. Each foal will respond to being weaned differently. Some may panic for only a few minutes, where others may take up to a day to calm down. Watch your foal to make sure it cannot escape from the pen or hurt itself on the fence. Feed it as you normally would and allow it to calm down naturally before introducing its companion to the pen. Check the edge of the fence for loose nails or anything else that could hurt your foal before weaning it. It will likely spend a lot of time near the edges of the pen trying to find its mother. Once the mother and foal have been separated from each other, it will take around 1 month for the mother to stop lactating and the foal to adjust to being on its own. Give both horses plenty of time to adjust to their new living style before reintroducing them. If you bring the mother and the foal back together before the foal has been properly weaned, you'll just need to wean them again. Make sure the mother has stopped lactating and the foal has adjusted to being apart from its mother before reintroducing them.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Leave your mare and foal in a field for 3 to 4 days. Take the mare out of sight and earshot of the foal. Give the foal time to calm down before introducing its friend or nanny. Keep the mare and foal separate for around 1 month.