INPUT ARTICLE: Article: " This is extremely important. Contact cleaner is a spray or liquid product that is designed to dissolve corrosion on metal electronic parts, typically the main cause of scratchy and popping sounds while moving volume controls or intermittent rotary or push-button switches (for speaker selections, modes, source) headphone or microphone jacks, etc. While all contact cleaners work on metal-only parts, most will actually destroy plastics and safe lubricants found inside and outside of almost every volume control potentiometer and switch. Choosing a contact cleaner which will restore and not harm your equipment is always a better choice than using a low-cost contact cleaner, as replacing your original part once the hidden internal plastics cracked or melted, or the metal shaft seized, are often impossible and tedious at best, so you are better to not attempt to clean with a questionable product and instead live with the unit as it is until you can obtain a suitable contact cleaner which will not harm your precious treasure. You can usually purchase a safe bottle at a decent electronics store or over the internet though it is important to be certain shipping of the product is approved by the shipping service as many contact cleaners are flammable and sometimes cannot be shipped certain methods or to certain locations. CAIG DeoxIt is a popular brand of contact cleaner and they have "D5" specifically for cleaning vintage stereo equipment correctly without harming the plastic components. They are an industry leader in contact cleaners for audiophiles and offer product support and product suggestions for specific applications. "D5" is an industry standard in the broadcast world and safely removes oxidation from the metals while avoiding harm to the internal plastic pieces and lubricants that most audio potentiometers contain. Avoid WD-40 (a renowned metal contact cleaner not always necessarily safe on all plastic parts) as it is not intended for use on most pieces that contain or touch plastic parts or have lubricants required to be able to turn. Testing before use may not be your option so use the online forums for advice first before trying something not reversible, you can save some headaches and heartaches. Damage cannot be undone. Equipment damaged or destroyed by contact cleaners which are not safe on plastics can sometimes end up on the internet (where you can't try before you buy) with no reference to seized or cracked controls so be careful to ask sellers if the knobs still turn or slide freely without excessive force or have shaft or neck breakage hidden by glued knobs etc. You can typically buy a few basic models of low-cost modern reproduction volume controls over the internet and test different contact cleaners on them to see what works and what doesn't before risking your stereo equipment's rare original pieces.

SUMMARY: Purchase a bottle of contact cleaner which is labeled as "safe to use on plastics. Look for a brand that offers quick-drying, no-residue application, as you won't be able to wipe many of the internal components dry. Avoid using products on your classic stereo equipment that are not intended for use on plastics in your stereo. Read and understand all labels on your contact cleaner and if you have any doubts, don't use it.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: The machine will need to be running for a few minutes before you begin milking the cow, in order to build pressure. Use this time to secure your cow and wash and dry her udder. This process is known as "stripping," and, in addition to encouraging milk to flow from the cow's teats, will squirt out any dirt or bacteria that has built up in the cow's teat. Consequently, the milk produced from stripping should not be squirted into the bucket, or it may contaminate the rest of the milk. Let it fall onto the ground. As soon as you release the pressure buildup on the milking machine, suction begins. As quickly as possible, place each suction cup over one of the cow's four teats. As the milk begins to flow from the teats into the suction device, adjust the devices so that they hang straight down from the udder. Some cows lift their back leg and kick over the bucket or knock off the suction devices. Keep the handle positioned so you can grab the bucket should she decide to kick the bucket. For this reason as well you should do your best to monitor and not walk away from the cows when they are being milked. Wait until the machine draws all of the milk out of the udder, which will become flaccid. All cows are a little different, but most will be fully milked out within 5 minutes. Due to udder differences or teat structural problems, some cows will take more than 7 minutes to be fully milked. Keep an eye on the milking device, and make sure that milk is still flowing. As soon as milk stops flowing, remove the device. Then remove the suction devices from the teats. The order is important: if you try to remove the milking device while suction is still on, you risk causing pain to the cow and damaging the sensitive tissue around her teats. Many modern milking machines do not require the person milking the cow to manually remove the suction cups. Once one quarter has been milked dry, they automatically fall off, one by one. Be careful not to trip over the milking machine's tubes or wires as you move around the milking area. Cows' teats are vulnerable to bacteria and infection immediately after having been milked and should be cleaned and protected. The most efficient method of protecting a cow's teats is to apply a post-milking disinfectant. This dark, thick liquid coats each of the cow's four teats and prevents bacteria from entering. Cows often like to eat after they've been milked, so provide the cow with fresh grass or hay.

SUMMARY:
Turn on the milking machine. Hand-milk each teat a few times to let down the milk. Release the machine's pressure and place each suction device on each teat. Leave the milking device on for 57 minutes. Turn off the device's suction. Clean the cow's udder.