INPUT ARTICLE: Article: There are many aspects to consider when making a swing that is both safe and long-lasting. If your yard doesn't have a tree with a branch that meets these standards, consider a different project. Oak trees are ideal, but any type of sturdy hardwood tree may be used. Evergreens and fruit trees should be avoided. Pick a healthy branch that is at least eight inches in diameter. Carefully inspect for any signs of disease or splitting. A sickly branch is more likely to break off and fall, potentially causing serious injury to anyone below. The placement of your swing should be at least three to five feet out from the tree's trunk. Press down on the branch at the point where you intend to hang your swing. If the branch bounces, choose a sturdier one. Do not pick a branch that is too high off the ground. Twenty feet should be the maximum, but if you are making a swing for a young child, consider a lower branch. Remember that the higher the swing's attachment point, the greater the height your child may fall from. You will need wood, rope, twine, three-inch deck screws, wood glue, fine grit sandpaper, two stainless steel quick link carabiners, and the right tools for the job. For tools, you will need a saw, a leveler, measuring tape, a sanding block, and a cordless drill. Buy enough 1.5-inch thick pressure treated wood for the job. You will need enough for three 7.25-inch wide pieces: one measuring 36 inches in length and two that are each 4 inches long. A two-by-eight board that is four feet long will be the easiest to work with. (If you are new to woodworking, keep in mind that the actual width and thickness of a two-by-eight are 7.25 inches and 1.5 inches respectively.) You will need a rope that is twice your planned swing's height (from the branch to the seat) plus an additional 12 feet. Use twisted polypropylene rope at least 3/8 inches in diameter. Keep in mind that nylon rope is typically too slippery for a good swing and a natural-fiber rope will eventually rot. Cut the rope into four pieces: two 10-foot lengths and two that are one foot longer than your swing's height. Throw one end of each rope up over the branch. Position the two ropes so that they are slightly over three feet apart. Tie a running bowline slip knot to one end of each rope. Next, thread the free end of each rope through its corresponding knot. Tug each free end to tighten the knot onto the branch. This type of knot is very secure but will also expand with the growing tree. If needed, you can attach one end of each rope to a rock with some twine before attempting to throw it. This extra step will make getting the ends up over the branches much easier. Remember that the base of your swing will be made up of three rectangles that will all be 7.25 inches wide. Mark two rectangles that are 4 inches for the supports and a third that is 36 inches for the main seat. Double-check your measurements before you begin sawing. To avoid the potential problem of the swing's seat cutting into the rider's thigh, sand down the front and rear top edges of your main seat piece. These will be two of the long edges on the same face of the board. You may also choose to sand down the other edges of the seat, but this is not necessary. Arrange the two supports each on opposite ends of the main board. If you only sanded down the top edges, make sure the support pieces are on side opposite from where you sanded. First, secure the pieces in place with wood glue. Next, reinforce the attachment using five deck screws for each support piece. Pattern the screws so that one is near each corner with the fifth directly in the center. Place two holes on each end through both the seat and its supports. Try to make each hole the same distance from the supports' edges and the center screw. The two holes on each side should create a line parallel to the seat's short side and perpendicular to its long side. Make sure the holes are wide enough to thread your rope through but not much wider. Use one rope for the two holes on one end and the second rope on the other. The two ropes should not cross. Position the ropes so that their ends are on the same side as the support pieces. Tie four stopper knots, one at each end of the ropes underneath the swing seat. Do not tie the knots too tight in case you need to adjust them later. There should now be two slings, one attached to each end of the seat. Unscrew your carabiners and hook one onto each sling. Screw the locking sleeves back on tight. Next, tie the ends of each rope hanging down to the quick links using a secure knot, such as a buntline hitch. Place a leveler on the seat to check for unevenness. If your seat isn't level, adjust the stopper knots accordingly. For example, if the seat is dipping forward and to the left, pull a little more rope through the bottom and move the knot up. Once the seat is level, tighten your knots. Your swing is now ready for use.

SUMMARY: Find the perfect tree and branch. Gather your materials. Secure the long ropes to your branch. Cut your wood. Sand down sharp edges. Put the seat pieces together. Drill holes to attach your rope. Thread each end of your 10-foot ropes through the holes. Secure the ropes. Attach the slings to the long main ropes using two quick links. Level the seat and secure the stopper knots.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Start simple for now, as complex molds are much harder to keep together at first. Get a piece of modeling wax and use a precision knife, Dremel, and any other tool needed to make a model of your jewelry. Whatever shape you make now will be the shape of your finished piece. You are making an exact replica of your eventual jewelry. Using a piece of jewelry you like as a model will help you design better pieces when you first start. Using some more wax, craft several long, wires out of wax and attach them to the model so that they all lead away from the piece. This is easier to understand when you see the whole process -- this wax will be covered in plaster, then melted out to make a hollow version of your shape. You then fill in the hollow part with silver. f you don't make sprues, the melted wax can't actually get out and make a hollow area. For smaller pieces, like a ring, you may only need one sprue. Larger pieces, like belt buckles, may need up to ten. All the sprues should meet at the same place. They will need to be attached to a sprue base. The sprues all meet together, and you attach the mold to the sprue base where all the sprues meet. This allows the wax to melt through the bottom of the base and leave the mold. The flask is a big cylinder that slides on top of the sprue base.

SUMMARY:
Carve a piece of hard modeling wax into your desired shape. Attach 3-4 "sprues," wax wires that will provide a channel for the wax to melt out later. Attach the mold to the sprue base using a bit of melted rubber. Put the flask on top of the sprue base, making sure you have a quarter inch between the wall of the flask and the model.