Article: Use a straight razor blade or a craft knife to remove any threading that may be surrounding the rod guide. If it's difficult to remove using just a blade, then try heating the area for 3-4 seconds with a lighter to loosen any of the adhesives. Peel off the tape and unwind the threading until the old, broken guide comes off of the rod. Rod guides are the circular metal pieces along the length of the rod that help keep your line straight. Be careful not to heat the rod for too long since it could cause damage to it. Don't cut into the rod with your razor, or else you could damage it and make it weaker. Use 120- or 220-grit sandpaper to get rid of any leftover adhesive and to add tooth to the rod. Rub all the way around the rod on the spot where you want to place the new guide. Then, use your sandpaper on the foot of the guide, which is the flat part that rests against the fishing rod. You can buy new fishing guides at sporting good stores. Make sure the new guide is the same size and style as the other guides on your fishing rod or else your line may snag or get tangled. Press the foot of the new guide onto the rod so it's in line with the other guides. Rip off a thin piece of masking tape and wrap it around the foot so it's held in place. That way, you don't need to keep holding it in place while you wrap it. You can also use super glue, but it will be difficult to move or readjust once the glue is set. Any type of thread will work for wrapping your guide onto the rod. Loop your threading around the rod so it's 1234 inch (1.31.9cm) from the guide's foot on the side closest to the handle. Maintain tension on the loop and start tightly winding the thread around the rod. Make sure the thread doesn't overlap with loops you've already made and that they are flush with one another. Take the piece of tape off of the foot you've wrapped everything below it. When your wrapping is 18 inch (0.32cm) from the circular part of the guide, stop winding the thread around the pole. Cut a separate piece of thread so it's about 6 inches (15cm) long and fold it in half to form a loop. Lay the second piece of thread on top of your wrapping so the loop sticks out near your guide. If you don't have any other thread, you can also use a thin fishing line instead. Once the looped piece of thread is on top of the wrapping, continue spinning your thread around the foot of the guide. Continue wrapping the final 18 inch (0.32cm) of the guide so the middle of the looped piece is held against the rod. Once you reach the end of your wrapping, cut the end of the thread you used to wrap and pull it through the middle of the loop. Pull the other end of the looped piece down and away from the guide to pull the thread underneath the wrapping. This way, the wrapping is secured to the rod without having to tie a knot. If you don't want to use a looped piece of thread, you can also try tying a knot in the threading, but it may not be as strong and it could be more difficult. Mix the 2 parts of the epoxy in a small dish with a paintbrush until they are thoroughly combined. Paint a thin layer of the epoxy over your threading so it hardens and stays in place. Keep the rod horizontal and let it dry overnight before you try using your rod again. Work quickly with the epoxy since it will quickly start to dry and harden once you mix it.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Cut the tape or thread around the broken guide with a razor blade. Sand the rod and foot of the new guide to get better adhesion. Tape the new guide onto the rod so it's aligned. Wrap the foot of the guide with thread to hold it in place. Place a looped piece of thread over the wrap when there's 18in (0.32cm) left. Wrap the final 18in (0.32cm) over the second piece of thread. Feed the thread through the looped piece and pull it tight. Paint 2-part epoxy onto the thread and let it dry.

Problem: Article: When choosing where to get inked, you will want to consider visibility, sensitivity, and discretion. This will set limitations, such as size, on your tattoo design. Think hard about whether you want the tattoo to be visible to everyone, in which case you can consider tattooing your arms or legs, or whether you want it to be more private, in which case you would want to consider tattooing your lower back, shoulders, or stomach. A larger or more intricate tattoo made with different sizes of needles will also likely hurt more, especially given that thicker needles tend to hurt more than thinner ones since they pierce more skin. Also keep in mind that different spots on the body have varying sensitivities. Bonier parts of the body and parts with little fat tend to be more painful. The wrists, for example, are highly sensitive, so it could hurt more to get inked there. Pain is subjective. Some claim that the initial outline of the tattoo is more painful, especially if this is your first experience getting inked, and others claim that the shading is more uncomfortable since the artist is going over the same areas over and over, packing color or ink. If you want to avoid shading, however, you should pick a simple, minimalistic tattoo design. Pain is part of the process, so prepare yourself. Remember that it's worth it-- you'll end up with a one-of-a-kind tattoo! Tattoo color can affect the design you create - color tattoos, for example, may be better suited for smaller designs so that you have fewer touch-ups to do. Black and gray tattoos age better than color tattoos over time, are typically less expensive, and take less time to complete. Color tattoos allow for more creativity, are great for covering existing tattoos, and contrast strongly with light to medium skin tones. Ask your tattoo artist for their recommendation on the type of coloring you should get. You might also want to consider getting a tattoo made out of white ink, depending on the type of design that you want to create and on the visibility you want the tattoo to have. White ink tattoos will often be less visible than monochrome or color ones.
Summary: Decide where on the body you want the tattoo. Consider the pain factor. Decide what type of coloring you want.

While it is best to make the juice in small batches so that it does not go bad, it will be helpful to have extra onions on hand for when you need to make the next batch. Peel it off using your fingers, or you can cut the onions into chunks, which often helps the skin come off easily. You have three options for doing this, based on what kind of kitchen appliances and tools you already own: A juicer: Cut the onion in small chunks and feed them through the juicer. A blender or food processor: Cut the onion into about four chunks and process the chunks in the blender or food processor. Strain the mixture through a metal strainer or cheesecloth over a bowl so that only the juice remains. A grater: Cut the onion in half and run each half over the grater. Strain the grated onion through a cheesecloth over a bowl to extract the juice. Fresh, pure onion juice is potent and can cause a reaction if you are allergic. Do not proceed with the rest of the steps if you are allergic. Carefully pour the juice over your scalp, and then use your fingertips to massage it into your scalp. Adding the massage gives the process extra power to stimulate your hair follicles. In order to achieve the best results, the onion juice needs to sit on your scalp for at least a half an hour. Once the time is up, shampoo and condition your hair as usual to remove the onion smell. It is recommended to repeat this method three times per week for best results within a couple of months.
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One-sentence summary --
Purchase a few onions. Peel the skin off the onions. Decide how you will obtain the juice from the onion. Test the onion juice in a small, hidden spot on your skin to test for an allergic reaction. Apply the onion juice to your scalp and massage it in. Leave in the onion juice for at least 30 minutes, up to one hour. Wash your hair as you normally would. Repeat three times per week.