Article: and fix imperfections in the wall. Use spackle and a spackle knife to fill in any holes or damage to the walls. Use paintable caulk to fill gaps between walls and trim. Run a thin bead of caulk along all the edges, using a caulk gun and paintable caulk. Remove any excess that smears away from the edge with a damp cloth. This is a critical step because it allows you to paint a crisp line on edges that would otherwise be uneven. Let the caulk dry for at least 20 minutes. It should be very thin in the first place, so it should not even need to be that long. While the caulk is drying, you can do other preparation, such as laying out tarps along the walls you are going to paint. Wipe off the trim edges with your cloth to remove any dust. Also go around the room and wipe any baseboards, door trim, window trim and crown molding on the edge that butts up to the wall surface. This will make your finished paint job smoother and a clean surface will help the tape adhere. Use the 1 inch (2.5cm) blue tape made specifically for use with painting. The secret here is to tape slowly and carefully, making sure to press down firmly along the edge of the tape so that it is attached securely. Using regular masking tape can cause the trim paint to pull up and you may be stuck repainting trim. Be sure to thoroughly tape off corners where you will have two different colors next to each other. This includes the edge at the top of the wall if the ceiling will be a different color. Dip your brush into the paint, making sure the paint only goes about halfway up the brush. Use the edge of the paint container to wipe off extra paint that might drip. It's important to paint with strokes that move from the center of the tape out across the edge or with strokes that run totally parallel to the edge of the tape. This will ensure that paint doesn't seep under the tape. You can paint the entire taped off edge before moving on to painting the rest of the wall. If you have a helper, one of you can do the edge painting and then the other can follow behind and paint the large sections of the wall. Work slowly and precisely so that the paint doesn't leak over the far side of the tape or get forced under the edge. Do not pull the tape off right after painting. Letting the paint dry completely lessens the elasticity of paint build-up along the edges, making it easier for the paint to break right at the tape line. On the flip side, you don't want to wait too long to take the tape off either. After a day or 2, the tape line will have more chance of being uneven because the paint will be too solid and dry. Start at a corner and pull the tape off so that it is at a 90 degree angle from the trim surface. This allows the tape to separate from the paint smoothly, rather than pulling up the edge of the paint as it's pulled off. Ideally, the paint edge will be a perfect line with no bleed through. If you follow the instructions carefully, you will remove the tape and find a beautiful room with perfect edges. If you are having problems with the tape pulling up and stretching the paint, you may have thick areas of paint that need to be cut. Use a razor blade to carefully cut along the edge where the paint is not breaking free. Keep the blade perpendicular to the wall so that you cut a smooth line next to the tape. If you are finding a lot of areas that don't want to come off easily, it's a good idea to just score all the edges in anticipation that they will all be difficult.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Fill gaps Clean the surfaces with a damp rag. Use painter's tape to mask off all trim and edges. Paint from the center to the edge of the tape with a brush. Let the paint dry overnight. Pull the tape off at an angle so the paint isn't disturbed. Use a razor blade to cut areas where the paint and tape won't separate.
Article: Check the manual to find out where your intakes are located and whether they have built-in attachments for a garden hose. If not, you'll need a set of motor muffs. Most manufacturers' recommendations for flushing or running a motor out of water are similar. However, you should still check the specific procedure for your model. With the engine lowered into the vertical position (not tilted in the tow position), locate the water intakes on the sides of the lower unit. Screw the hose nozzle into one of the intakes. Your manual will most likely recommend covering the other intake with heavy tape. If you need motor muffs, you can purchase a set for under $10 (USD) at a marina, sporting goods store, or online. They look like earmuffs connected by a long, V-shaped rod. Many boat owners like to splash the insides of the muffs with water before attaching them to the motor. A better seal can help prevent the muffs from sliding off while the engine's running. Slide the muffs onto the motor's lower unit so they're aligned over the water intakes. Be sure to position the muffs so the connecting rod is located in front of the motor on the opposite side of the propeller. While you should keep the engine in neutral while running it out of water, you still need to be careful around the propeller. Injury or damage will result if the engine accidentally slips into gear and the connecting rod is on the propeller side of the motor. One of the muffs has a nozzle, and the other is solid. Find the one with the nozzle, then screw your garden hose into it. Double check that the connection is tight and that the muffs fit snugly over the motor's water intakes.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Read your manual before starting the motor out of water. Screw the hose directly into the motor if it has a built-in attachment. Purchase motor muffs at a boating store or online. Wet the muffs to get a better seal. Clamp the muffs to the motor and stay clear of the propeller. Screw the garden hose onto the muffs.