In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Open your package of Command hooks, and find the adhesive strip. Find the side that is red, then peel that liner off. Once you have the liner off, press it against the back of the hook. If the liner is not color-coded, look for the word "hook" and peel that side off instead. Some adhesive strips have little pull tabs that are used for removing the adhesive from the wall. Make sure that this tab is sticking out of the bottom of the hook. If your hook's liner was not color-coded, look for the side that is labeled "wall." Peel the liner off, and press the hook against the wall, right between your pencil marks. Hold the hook firmly against the wall for 30 seconds. Make sure that the hook is oriented correctly. The hooked part should be pointing down, with the tip curving upwards. Some types of Command hooks slide out of the base that you attached the adhesive strip to. Slide the hook upwards to reveal the rectangular base. Press the base firmly against the wall for 30 seconds, then slide the hook base into place. Skip this step if you are using a simple hook that does not slide off of the base. You will need another hook on the other side of the window. If you are using a large and/or heavy curtain rod, install a third hook in the middle, between the 2 outer hooks. Do not jump ahead and hang the curtain rod up just yet. During this time, the adhesive will bind to the wall. Don't get impatient and hang the curtain rod before the hour is up, or the hooks will fall off. You can now hang your curtain onto the rod. How you do this depends on the type of curtain you are using. For example, some curtains slide directly onto the rod, while others must be secured with curtain rings or tabs.
Summary: Remove the red liner and press it against the back of the hook. Remove the black liner and press it against the wall for 30 seconds. Slide the hook off of the base, and press the base against the wall, if applicable. Repeat the process for the other hooks. Give the hooks 1 hour to bond to the wall. Place the curtain rod onto the hooks.

If you are making your own starter shingles, cut the tabs off for the "starter course" (bottom row) of shingles. To prepare the tabs and lay the starter course, shorten the first starter shingle by 6 inches (or about a half of one tab). Place the glue strip at and all along the drip edge, and the rake edges as well. You will shingle over this starter course, so the bottom course will be double thickness. Instead of cutting off all three tabs, you can also reverse the shingles for a starter course, so that the entire shingle with tabs turned upward are under your first course of shingles. With either method, putting the solid edge at the drip edge and cutting 6 inches off the length of first starter shingle prevents the slots between the tabs from lining up with the first regular course laid over the starter, thus not to expose the asphalt roofing paper through the slots of that bottom row. Nail the shingles with no tabs, such as precut Pro-Start shingles, and apply asphalt cement from a caulk gun in many dots along the drip edge under the edge, then press the tab-less shingles down onto the line of asphalt cement dots with adequate spaces between the dots. A continuous bead of asphalt could trap condensation or windblown water under the roofing at some point. To make sure you've got the right sizes to lay courses correctly, cut several sizes of shingles from the three-tab variety you purchased. Cut off one-half tab-width of the first tab to start the first course. Each cut is needed to shift the slots of the shingles on the course of shingles a 1/2 tab from aligning with the slots in shingles above and below. Keep all scrap, especially any single tabs for use on the ridge cap shingles. Make the following cuts: Cut a half tab off for your first course shingles, Cut off a full tab for your second course shingles Cut one and a half tabs off of your third course shingles, Cut two tabs off your fourth course shingles For your fifth course, cut off half of the final tab Keep your sixth course tabs intact Nail the "cut off shingle" into place, about 6 inches from its lower edge. Hammer in one nail about 2 inches from each end of each shingle and another nail about 1 inch above each cutout. Make sure to keep nails out of the tar strip as you work. The next shingles above should cover the nails by about 1 inch vertically. Horizontally, end nails will be covered by up to about 1/2 of a tab, of the shingle(s) above. Be sure that these nails will hold the top edge of the course of shingles immediately below. Repeat this basic pattern, alternating shingles across the roof, working toward the right side, using the chalk line to keep the shingles straight horizontally. Use 4 nails per shingle and 6 nails on the prevailing windward sides of the roof, as wind resistance nailing. Some local codes require the 6 nails on all sides. You can let the excess extend off the side end of the roof and trim it down after it is nailed on, if you like. Continue this process to the 5th row, then begin the same process as the first row beginning with a full shingle, and a chalk mark. Repeat all of the way to the ridge. If it is a hip roof, allow about a tab width to overhang onto the next section of roof at the hip to help strengthen the joint there.
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One-sentence summary -- Cut your starter-course shingles if necessary. Cut five different lengths for staggering slots. Start laying courses. Butt a full shingle up against the cut shingle and nail into place. Cut the last shingle to the size you need when you reach the end of the row.

Problem: Article: You can go directly to this page by visiting netflix.com/YourAccount. Even if you don't use Netflix on your computer, you'll need to visit the web page to make changes to your account. You cannot change your Netflix plan information from the streaming device or video game console. If you pay for Netflix using your iTunes account, see the next section. You'll need to be logged in with your primary Netflix profile to make changes to the plan. This will display the plan that you currently have for Netflix. In most regions, you can select between three streaming plans: One Screen in Standard Definition (SD), Two Screens in High Definition (HD), and Four Screens with HD and Ultra HD (UHD). Each plan costs a little more than the previous one, but allows more people to watch on different screens at the same time. Netflix recommends a 3.0 Mbps connection for SD content, a 5.0 Mbps connection for HD content, and a 25 Mbps connection for UHD content. Not all options are available in all regions. This will set your account to use the new plan. The changes you make will take effect at the start of your next billing cycle, but you should be able to access your new features immediately. If you live in the United States, you can sign up for the Netflix DVD rental service as well as the Streaming service. This is handled by a different branch of Netflix. It is not available to customers outside of the US. Click the "Add DVD plan" link to view the available DVD plans. You will be taken to the DVD plan website. Select the plan that you want to add. After adding your plan, you'll be able to start getting your DVDs delivered.
Summary:
Sign into the Netflix "My Account" page on your computer. Click the Profile button in the upper-right corner and select your primary profile. Find the "Plan Details" section. Click "Change Plan" next to your current streaming plan to see the other options. Select the plan you want and click "Continue." Add or change a DVD plan (US only).