Determine if a blaster is right for your needs. If your paint covers a large area, then a blaster may be a better choice over a paint stripper solution. One form of blasting is soda blasting, which uses baking soda as the scouring agents. Soda blasting is also much more environmentally-friendly than using chemicals, and will not damage the concrete underneath. To soda blast, you will need a pot blaster. Your local hardware store may be able to rent them to you. You will also need special sodium bicarbonate. The baking powder that you buy at the grocery store is too fine to use in a soda blaster. The proper powder should be available where you rent the blaster, but can also be ordered online. Most standard sand blasters cannot work with soda. You will need to obtain a specialized soda blaster in order to use sodium bicarbonate. Work slowly, holding the nozzle about a foot and a half away from the ground. Be sure to wear a respirator to avoid inhaling particles. Move the nozzle evenly across the painted area to make sure that no paint gets left behind. If blasting near vegetation, be sure to avoid getting excess particles on plants. The high pH soda can cause browning and death in flowers and bushes. If you have a lot of paint to remove, consider hiring a professional blaster. The amount of blasting material needed and the size of the blasting unit will most likely be far too much to afford on your own.
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One-sentence summary -- Consider soda blasting. Obtain a blasting unit. Blast the painted area.

Make sure to remember also to heat the pan you plan to cook on. The broiler uses flames to cook the meat, so check your stove's manual before utilizing it for any safety warnings. Use oven mitts or a thick dry rag when handling hot objects. Slide your grill out and place the London Broil in your preheated pan. Place the London Broil on the top rack, or 4-5 inches away from the open flame. Once it has cooked for 4-6 minutes, pull out your oven rack and flip the London Broil over with a large fork or tongs. Crack your oven door to prevent your London Broil from burning. Allowing your meat to rest before cutting it will retain its juices and enable it to finish cooking. You can use a meat thermometer to ensure that your London Broil is done before serving. It should have an internal temperature of 130-135 degrees Fahrenheit (54-57 degrees Celcius) for a rare steak and 140-145 degrees Fahrenheit (60-62 degrees Celcius) for a medium-rare steak. Slicing against the grain of the meat will allow you to have a more tender piece of meat. Find the direction in which the fibers are going, and cut along them rather than parallel with them.
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One-sentence summary -- Preheat your broiler and pan for 10 minutes. Place the London Broil in your broiler for 4-6 minutes on each side. Remove the London Broil from heat and let it sit for 10 minutes. Carve your meat against the grain before serving.

Sometimes we get frustrated when things don't go according to plan because they don't meet our expectations. Think about the expectations you had for the situation. Think about if your expectations may have been too strict or rigid. One plan or goal is not a measure of your worth. Just because things didn't work out this time, that doesn't mean they will never work out in the future. For example, you and your friends wanted to go to a special restaurant, and you find out it's closed. You may be disappointed or upset because you were expecting a nice meal there. Instead of thinking that the only good meal is at this one restaurant, evaluate the other places available. Since your original plan hasn't come through, return to your original mission or goal for the situation. You likely had a brainstorming phases about your goals and expectations. Go back to that moment. Talk about your goal again with those involved. Consider writing down your original goal. Putting the situation in writing, particularly for bigger plans, can help to solidify what your goal is. Use this goal as a framework to restate and reimagine your alternative plans. So your original plan hasn't worked out? Now is the time to think about the other options available. What is your Plan B or Plan C? If you don't have an alternative plan in place, then evaluate other options to consider. Gather information about other options available. Consider writing down the other options available, and making a list of pros and cons. Reassess the strategies and possible outcomes to your plans. Talk with others involved in the process--friends, family, co-workers. See if they may have additional ideas. While these alternatives may not be your original plan, one or more of them may turn out as good as the original. Take action. Be clear about next steps you're taking. Avoid feeling defeated, as if the original plan was the best or only one available. Approach this next phase feeling positive and hopeful rather than negative. Be confident in your decision once you've evaluated the different options available.
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One-sentence summary -- Explore what your expectations were. Restate your goal. Think about the options available. Make a decision about next steps.

Since copper is quite soft, it should produce a muted, round sound. A test way back in 1867 described copper's sound as "dead," while brass emitted a "clear ringing note." This might be tough to judge without experience, but learning it could prove useful for an antiquing or scrap collection hobby. This works best for thick, solid metal objects. Brass objects made for industrial purposes often have a code stamped on them to identify the exact alloy. In both the North American and European systems, the codes for brass begin with a C and are followed by several numbers. Copper is often left unlabeled, but if you want to be sure, double check the code with this quick guide: The UNS system in North America uses brass labels beginning with C2, C3, or C4, or fall between C83300 and C89999. Copper, if labeled, can use codes from C10100 to C15999, and C80000C81399. The last two digits are often dropped. In the current European system, both copper and brass begin with C. Brass ends with the letter L, M, N, P, or R, while copper ends with A, B, C, or D. Older brass may not conform to these systems. Some older European standards (which were used quite recently) list the element symbols followed by a percentage. Anything that contains "Cu" and "Zn" is considered brass. This test is usually not too helpful, since brass is only slightly harder than copper. Some types of treated copper are particularly soft, so you may be able to scratch them with a US penny (which is never true of brass). However, in many cases there is no convenient object that will scratch one object but not the other. Copper is easier to bend than brass as well, but it's difficult to draw exact conclusions from that test (especially without damaging the object).
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One-sentence summary --
Strike the metal and listen to the sound. Look for stamped codes. Check how hard the metal is.