Q: Line the edges of a sheet of printer paper with glue, then press a sheet of tissue paper directly on top. Let dry. Use a glue stick or a very light, thin line of glue. Tape could also work. The tissue paper needs to stick firmly to the printer paper, but if the glue is too thick, your printer may not be able to feed it through properly. Place the tissue paper structure in your printer, then print out the picture you want to use. Make sure that the picture prints onto the tissue paper, not the regular paper. You also need to make sure that the picture is sized accordingly before you print it. Resize the picture using a photo editing or word processing program so that it will fit onto the candle without difficulty. Set the printer paper properties to a "transparency film" setting for best results. Use scissors to cut away as much excess paper from around the border of the picture as possible. During this step, the tissue paper should also be freed from the computer paper. Dispose of or recycle the printer paper. Keep only the inked tissue paper for this project. Some border can be helpful since it makes the picture easier to hold and maneuver, but this border should still be as thin as possible. Press the picture against the side of the candle at the position you want it. Usually, there will be enough static to help hold the tissue paper in place. If the picture does not stay still on its own, however, you can apply a very small dab of glue to the corners before pressing it onto the candle. The picture should be ink-side out when you place it on the candle. Wrap a sheet of wax paper around the candle. Keep it flush against the sides of the candle, and hold it in place from the back (the side opposite the picture). The wax paper makes it easier to maintain the shape of the candle. It also protects your hands from high, direct heat. Make sure that the waxed side of the wax paper faces toward the candle. Use a handheld embossing tool or heat gun to blow hot air onto the picture for several minutes. When the ink starts to show through the wax paper more clearly, turn off the heat. Keep the heat gun moving so that the entire image transfers onto the candle evenly. The wax on the wax paper should melt, sandwiching the image in between the wax of the candle and the melted wax of the wax paper. If you do not have a heat gun or embossing tool, use a strong hair dryer or carefully hold the picture-side of the candle over the hot eye of a stove. Carefully peel away the wax paper from the candle. If done right, the image should remain on the candle. If there are any pieces of wax sticking up afterward, wait until they cool and lightly pat them down or wipe them away. This completes the project.
A: Attach tissue paper to printer paper. Print the picture out. Trim the picture to size. Place the picture on the candle. Wrap wax paper around the candle. Heat the entire structure. Peel away the wax paper.

Q: Combine 2/3 cup (230 g) of creme fraiche and 2/3 cup (165 g) of plain Greek yogurt in a bowl. Add 4 teaspoons (20 g) of horseradish and mix the ingredients together. Blend 1lb (0.45kg) of thinly-sliced salmon in a food processor. Add the salmon to the yogurt mixture and mix them together to create a savory dip that will work with crostinis and chips alike. Add salt, pepper, or lemon juice to the top of the dip if you want to give it a more dynamic flavor profile. Your salmon dip will hold for 3-4 days if you store it in an airtight container in your refrigerator.
A: Create a smoked salmon dip that works well with bread or chips.

Q: If you are trying to explore an idea through multiple narrators, but want to show their emotions through action and dialogue, rather than internal thoughts, the objective third person omniscient POV may be right for you. If you want to write a story with a strong narrator who frames the characters with their narrative voice, the subjective third person omniscient may be a better fit for your story. Rather than using "I", which is first person POV, or addressing the reader as "you", which is second person POV, address the characters by their names or by the applicable pronoun, such as: he, she, his, hers, him and her. For example, instead of writing: "I arrived in town on a cold, windy morning," you would write, "She arrived in town on a cold, windy morning" or "Alice arrived in town on a cold, windy morning." When you write in this point of view, remember that the narrator is usually an unknown entity as it is acting as an all seeing eye. So you do not need to give the narrator a name or provide any information about them to the reader. This is different than the first and second person perspectives, where the narrator plays a starring role in the work and dominates the point of view. The most well known example of this type of narrator is the "Lemony Snicket" character in "A Series of Unfortunate Events." The "Lemony Snicket" narrator identifies himself as "I", but also addresses the reader directly and shifts into different character perspectives throughout the novel.
A: Decide which type of third person omniscient POV will benefit your story. Practice writing in your chosen POV. Avoid identifying the narrator with objective third person omniscient. Create a strong narrator to use subjective third person omniscient.

Q: If you are piping the circumference of an item, such as a sleeve cuff, then you will need to join both ends. Use a steam ripper to open up the stitching on the first 2 inches (5.1cm) of your pre-made piping. Cut the cording inside the piping by 2 inches (5.1cm). Fold the end of the fabric in by 1 inch (2.5cm), and press it flat with an iron. Leave the other end of the piping intact. Skip this step if you are using homemade piping, or if you just need to pipe a single, straight edge. If you have not already done so, cut out the pieces for your project. Spread the first piece down with the right side facing up. Pin the piping around the edges that you want to pipe. Make sure that the raw edge of the piping is aligned with the raw edge of the fabric. If you are piping the perimeter of an item, then leave 1 inch (2.5cm) at each end of the piping unpinned. You should do this only if you are piping the perimeter of your project. Slip the raw end of the piping into the folded end, then secure it with sewing pins. If you need to, trim the raw end down until it fits inside the folded end. Skip this step if you are piping just a single, straight line and don't need to join both ends. You will need 3 V-shaped slits for corners, and at least 3 for curves. Curves are all different, so you may need to cut more in order to get the fabric to lay flat. Cut the slits as close to the stitching as possible, without actually cutting through it. Use a straight stitch and the longest stitch length on your sewing machine. Make sure that the thread color matches the piping; you will use it as a guide in a later step. Try to sew across the original stitching on the piping as much as possible. If you are sewing piping that is joined together, begin and finish sewing at the folded seam. Place the second piece of your fabric on top of your project, right-side-down, and secure it with pins. Turn your project so that the back is facing you and you can see the basting stitches. Sew just inside these stitches. This will help tighten the piping up. Trim the seams so that they are between 14 to 12 inch (0.64 to 1.27cm). If you need to, cut more slits into any corners or curves that won't lay flat. When you are done, turn your project right-side-out. Press the seams to either side of the piping for a nicer finish. You can go over the raw edges of the inside seams with a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
A:
Open up the stitching on pre-made piping, if needed. Pin the piping the the right side of your fabric. Tuck the raw end of the piping into the folded end. Cut V-shaped slits into the corners and curved edges. Baste the piping to the fabric. Pin and sew the second piece of fabric on top. Trim the seams, then turn the project right-side-out.