Write an article based on this "Don't forget about the bathroom. Use several recessed down lights or decorative surface-mounted fixtures for areas over 100 square feet. Mount one fixture over the mirror to light a bathroom, but realize it can cause shadows on the face. Use extra lighting in unexpected areas for both decoration and function."
article: Bathroom lighting is probably the last place people want to invest time and money. Mirrors go unlit, and oftentimes one ceiling fixture is used to light up the sink, mirror, and shower. However, as whirlpool tubs become larger and steam showers are added, more and more time is spent relaxing in the bathroom. Since you begin and end your day in the bathroom, why not spend a little extra time considering which fixtures and lights would work best? Halogen bulbs are generally the standard for bathroom lighting, but the newest compact fluorescent bulbs are also a great option. Add companion close-to-ceiling fixtures to supplement bath wall brackets in larger bathrooms. Companion close to ceiling fixtures supplement bath wall brackets in larger bathrooms. If using recessed lighting, avoid creating shadows by not mounting them directly over the mirror. Adding wall brackets to the side of the mirror is one of the best way to eliminate shadows on the face. For mirrors under 48" wide use, vertically mounted wall brackets and position them 75 to 80 inches (190.5 to 203.2cm) above the floor. If the fixture uses exposed lamps, do not use a higher wattage than 40 watts. Fixtures with clear or well diffused glass use nor more than 75 watts. Color corrected fluorescent lamps should be used when fluorescent fixtures are desired. A crisp white light renders skin tones most accurately. Try a small recessed light directed at a piece of decorative art work or a beautiful powder basin creates an extra layer of lighting. In the shower, use recessed lights or a ceiling mounted plastic unit. Angle a recessed shower fixture and highlight nice tile work or make your shower fixtures sparkle. Don't forget the area over the commode! A recessed unit is always a great addition.

Write an article based on this "Work a foundation chain. Half double crochet at the start of the next row. Create the first shell. Work additional shells across the row. Front post treble crochet at the start of the next row. Create treble clusters along the entire row. Work a partial cluster at the end of the row. Work treble clusters and half double crochets across the third row. Create nine-stitch cluster shells across the fourth row. Connect the shells across the fifth row. Repeat as needed. Fasten off."
article: Attach the yarn to your hook using a slip knot, then work a foundation of chain stitches in multiples of 10. In other words, the foundation chain can consist of 10 chains, 20 chains, 30 chains, 40 chains, 50 chains, etc. The length of your foundation chain will be the final length of your project. At the end of your foundation chain, work two more chain stitches to serve as a turning chain for your next row. Half double crochet once into the second chain from your hook. When counting chains, do not count the loop currently on your hook. To create the first shell of your first official row, you will need to work a series of treble crochets and half double crochets. Skip four chains in your foundation. Work nine treble crochets into the fifth chain. Skip another four chains in your foundation. Half double crochet once into the next chain. Repeat the previous step across the full length of your foundation, stopping only once you reach the end of the row. This completes the first official row. If desired, you can change yarn colors after the end of your first row. Doing so is not necessary, though. Chain three, then work one treble crochet into the front posts of each of the next four stitches. Keep the last loop of each treble crochet on the hook. After the last treble crochet, yarn over the hook and pull the yarn-over through all the loops on the hook. Chain four again. Work one half double crochet into the next stitch in the previous row. Work a series of treble clusters, chains, and half double crochets across the entire second row, stopping before you work the last five stitches. For each group: Chain four. Work a front post treble crochet into each of the next four stitches, leaving the last loop on the hook after each one. Half double crochet once, then work another four treble crochets across the next four stitches. Leave the last loop on the hook after each stitch, then yarn over and pull it through the all the loops on your hook after the final stitch. This counts as a nine-stitch shell cluster. Chain four. Work one half double crochet into the front post of the next stitch. Chain four, then work a treble crochet into the front posts of each of the final five stitches in the row, keeping the last loop on the hook for each one. Yarn over and pull through all the loops after completing the last one. This completes the row. Chain four, then turn the work over. Work four treble crochets into the top of the first cluster, then half double crochet once into the next half double crochet. Create connecting shells across the entire row, stopping just before the last cluster. For each connecting shell: Work nine treble crochets into the center of the next cluster. Half double crochet into the next half double crochet. For the final cluster of the row, work five treble crochets into the top of the cluster. You can change colors at the end of this row or keep going with the color you currently have. At the end of this row, you should also chain one and turn the work over. Work one half double crochet into the first stitch, then work a series of nine-stitch cluster shells across the rest of the row until you reach the end and finish the row. For each group: Chain four. Work a nine-stitch shell cluster over the next nine stitches, following the same procedure used to make the nine-stitch shell clusters in your second row. Chain four. Work one half double crochet into the next stitch. At the very end of the row, chain one and turn the work over. At the start of the fifth row, half double crochet into the first half double crochet stitch. Work across the rest of the row using a series of treble crochets and half double crochets. For each connecting shell: Work nine treble crochets into the center of the first cluster. Half double crochet into the next half double crochet. Continue until you reach the end of the row. If desired, change colors at the end of this row. You've completed a full set of Bavarian crochet at this point. Repeat rows two, three, four, and five until the project reaches your desired width. If you're changing colors, do so at the end of each odd numbered row. When your project is finished, cut the yarn, leaving a tail 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) long. Pull this tail through the loop on your hook to fasten off and finish the work. Weave the secured tail into the back of the work to hide it.

Write an article based on this "Go from light to dark. Use the bucket method. Use the squirt bottle method. Ice dye your fabric. Use the spray bottle method."
article:
Immerse your fabric in the lightest color dye that you're using for the time indicated on the Rit powder directions, usually 4-10 minutes. The longer you let the fabric sit in the dye, the more vibrant the color will be. Keep going through your dye colors, working to the darkest color. Because Rit dye is a union dye, the colors won't be quite as vibrant as those from other dyes. The versatility of this dye more than makes up for any lack of vibrancy, though. Use a 3-gallon bucket for every color dye that you're using instead of a sink or bathtub. This method offers complete portability, allowing you to tie dye anywhere that you choose. The bucket method is great for larger dye jobs, or dipping your fabric, but doesn't allow you as much precision as some other methods. The bucket method also allows you to dye larger pieces or do batches, which is handy if you are going to do several pieces. For this method, you'll wet the fabric first, ring it out, and set it aside. Then, mix one color per squirt bottle (you can pick these up at any dollar store, usually two for $1.00). Fold or band the fabric as you want it, and then squirt the dye solution on your fabric. This method allows you the most precision, but isn't as quick as the bucket method. The squirt bottle method also allows you to do very detailed designs and color patterns. You won't make a solution when you ice dye your fabric; instead, you'll carefully apply the powder directly to the fabric. To begin, wet and ring out your fabric. Then, scrunch up the fabric over a rack of some kind, like a baking rack. Put ice on top of the fabric, and tap the dye powder on to the ice with a spoon. Cover your creation with an old sheet for 24 hours. When you return, the ice will have melted leaving a magical, blended design unlike any other. Just as with the squirt bottle method, ice dyeing fabric is really for smaller jobs. Because you're tapping loose powder on to the ice, you'll need to wear a face mask for this method. This method works best if you are in an open area, or if you use large plastic bags to contain any overspray. Fill one spray bottle per color of dye that you're using. Prepare the fabric as normal, and either place in a plastic bag or set in an open, protected area. Spray the fabric with your spray bottles until the desired effects are achieved. This method offers some precision, but likely will not fully saturate the middle of your fabric.