Choose an inconspicuous place such as under your seat. You can also get fibers from the carpet that is hidden underneath plastic paneling. To expose carpet, inspect the paneling first. Check if the weather stripping is covering the area where the panel meets the door. If so, gently pull back the weather stripping in this area only. Try to locate the fastener clips. These are located between the panel and the door, usually near creases where two panels meet. Use your fingers or a panel pop tool to gently pry off the panel at the fastener clips, where the plastic is reinforced. If you can't find the fastener clips, try wiggling and prying the panel from the bottom. Be careful not to bend the plastic permanently. Angle your razor blade and gently run it along the area. Do not apply too much pressure to avoid the blade cutting into the fabric. The fastener clips should snap easily back into place. If you pulled back your weather stripping, restore it by guiding the strip back into place and applying pressure. It will expand and fill some of the space. Allow it to dry. If the hole is not deep, you may skip this step. Alternatively, you can fill the bottom of the burn hole with a small piece of foam. Cut the piece of foam to fit the hole. Apply fabric glue to the bottom of the hole and insert your foam. Allow it to dry. Do not apply too much or attempt to fill the hole with glue. You can do multiple layers of glue and fibers later. Place some fibers on top of the glue while it is wet and gently pat them into place. Repeat layers of glue and fibers until the surface of the hole is level with the seat. Allow it to dry.
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One-sentence summary -- Find a spot in your car to collect fibers that match the seat. Shave off enough fibers with your razor blade to cover the burn hole. Reinstall your paneling now if it was removed. Apply a small amount of Gorilla Glue to the bottom of a deep hole. Place a drop of fabric glue inside the burn hole. Apply the matching fibers to the fabric glue.

To get a good shot, the ball can't be close to your body. Tap the ball a step or two ahead of your kicking foot. Push it directly ahead of you to set up a normal, straight kick. Move it slightly to the side when you need to bend your kick or change your angle. Take moderate strides towards the ball. The best shot happens when you don't slow down or change your stride much when approaching the ball. To practice this, start by approaching the ball with slow, even strides. Increase the speed once this feels comfortable. Planting your foot is the same as a normal kick, except the ball is rolling. If you plant your non-kicking foot next to the ball, the ball will roll past it. When done perfectly, the ball will be even with your foot when you kick it. Remember to point your toes on the foot that is planted towards the goal! Use the same approach that you learned before when kicking the ball. Draw back your foot, lock your ankle, and follow through with your shot. Soon, the shots you take while running will be as perfect as the ones you take while standing still!
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One-sentence summary -- Push the ball ahead of you. Plant your foot ahead of the ball. Kick the ball as you normally would.

Take the dough you've made and prepare it for sun baking. Make sure the pieces are spaced far enough apart to give them room to expand a bit without touching each other. You'll need to use at least 2 baking sheets to do this. To do this successfully, of course, you need to find a warm place with direct sunlight, with a temperature that should be ideally at least 80-85F (25-30C), if not much warmer. The warmer it is, of course, the more quickly your poppadoms will bake. Alternately, you can dry them in the oven at the lowest possible setting, for around 4-6 hours. If you're not ready to serve them, you should store them in an airtight container as soon as you can. They'll be good to go for up to 6 months. If you want to serve your poppadoms, either eat them right away or heat them up directly over an open flame or place them on a gas grill just until they're lightly toasted. You can also place them in your broiler, which should be set on high, until they're lightly toasted.
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One-sentence summary -- Place the dough rounds on rimmed baking sheets. Put the sheets in direct sunlight until the rounds are completely dry, for 24-48 hours. Store the finished product. Serve.

Start with a 2 by 2 feet (0.61 by 0.61m) square, and thoroughly coat it with water. Don't spray a large area yet, as you'll need to practice a bit to get the technique down. Let the water soak into the wall for a few minutes. The water will help make it easier to scrape the texture off. Touch the wall to see if it's soaked in enough. It should feel a little soft. If it doesn't seem soft, try spraying it again. Set the blade against the wall. The blade should create a 30 angle coming off of the wall. Keep it steady at this angle when you begin to scrape. Scrape the wall at an angle, adjusting as you go. You may need to scrape harder or softer, depending on how the wall responds to your scraping. That's why you're starting with a small spot first. If the texture isn't coming off, you're not scraping hard enough. However, you don't want to scrape down into the wallboard underneath. Once you get your rhythm, spray another section. It can be bigger than your first section. Let it soak in, and scrape it as you did before. Keep moving around the room until you've scraped all of the texture off. Be sure to move systematically around the room so you don't miss any spots. Pick a place to start, and make a plan for how you're going to cover the whole room, such as going up and down the wall. If it dries out, apply more water as needed. After you have the whole room done, go back around with a medium-grit sandpaper in the 60- to 100-grit range. Sand down any rough spots that are left behind so you have a mostly smooth surface. You can also use a sanding screen. Don't sand too hard, as you don't want to sand through the paper on the wallboard or into the wallboard. You don't want to leave dust on the area, so dampen a large sponge. Wipe down the wall as well as you can to remove the dust. You may need to wash the sponge out from time to time. Use a wallboard knife that's 6 inches (15cm) long to spread joint compound across the wall. Aim for a layer that's 18 inch (3.2mm) thick. Smooth it out as you go, and make sure to complete each wall in one session to give it a more even look. Let the wall dry overnight. Once the wall has dried overnight, sand down any rough areas with medium-grit sandpaper or a sanding screen. Create as smooth a surface as you can. Vacuum up the drywall dust so it doesn't float into the joint compound when you apply it again. You can use a standard vacuum, but make sure it works really well. However, you can also rent a dust drywall vacuum specifically for that purpose. Use your wallboard knife to apply the second and final layer of joint compound. Make a thinner layer this time, as you're mostly trying to fill in low spots. Let it dry overnight. After the joint compound has dried overnight, spend time smoothing out the walls again. Run medium-grit sandpaper over any rough areas to create a smooth surface. Vacuum up any dust. It helps to wipe the wall down with a damp sponge again, letting it dry afterwards.
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One-sentence summary --
Spray a small area with water. Hold a floor scraper or drywall blade at a 30 angle. Scrape off the texture. Move around the room in small sections. Sand down the texture that's left behind. Wipe down the wall with a damp sponge. Apply joint compound over the wall with a wallboard knife. Sand the walls down again. Apply another round of joint compound. Sand again.