Article: Propagating daffodils is largely a process of trial and error, therefore it's best to start with a large number of bulbs and to try all types of propagation before choosing a single method. The first and simplest is sexual propagation, so called because it requires two plants to work. Despite it's name, sexual propagation requires very little active involvement in the actual propagation. You simply need to rely on natural agents of pollination such as bees, pollen, and the wind to do their job and collect seeds from the daffodil plants after blooms die back and a large seed pod appears. The seed will generate a young bulb which can be transferred to another location to produce a daffodil. This method is best for those who, for whatever reason, were unable to work the soil to dig up the remaining bulbs. This process while simple is timely and will be unnecessary if the bulbs can be retrieved.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Know that sexual propagation exists. Consider trying sexual propagation. Save the seed and plant it in a protected area such as a greenhouse or indoors.

Problem: Article: If you have a miter box, use that to help you cut your pipe. Miter boxes are designed to allow a hand saw to make precise cuts on an item. Use 150-grit sandpaper on the ends of your 6ft (1.8m) pipe to get rid of any jagged edges. Then, pour some glue on an end cap and attach it to the pipe. If you don't have a miter box, use your handsaw to cut the pipe. While the glue cap dries onto the other piece, you can work with the other pieces. Sand the ends after you make your cuts. Then, push the pieces of pipe into the hole in the connector to attach it to the T fitting. A T fitting piece is a pipe connector in the shape of the letter "T." There's no need to glue them or stick them to the connector. Cut 2 46cm (18in) pieces of pipe, sand the ends, and glue them to the elbow fittings to create a large U-shape. Then, cut 6 pieces of pipe, 0.91m (36in) in length and sand the ends. Place the pipes so that the bottom part of the T fitting is pointing upwards. Connect the pieces on a flat work surface for accuracy. Then, slide the 2 units of pipe together to form a large rectangle. Attach the 2 U-shaped pipe pieces together with glue. Give the glue around an hour to dry after you've put the 2 U's together. You can do this the exact same way you connected the last 3 pieces of pipe with the T fitting. Just make sure that the open end at the center of the T fitting is pointing upward when you're finished. Use a flat work surface to connect the pieces. Stick the 1.8m (5.9ft) piece to the T fitting at the top of the shape. This large piece of pipe will act as the tripod for your easel. Put glue on 1 end of your pipe and stick into 1 of the open T fittings on your base. You're finished building the base of your easel at this point. Place the pipe on your miter box and use your hand-saw to cut it. If you don't have a miter box, mark the measurements using a pencil and measuring tape before you cut it. Use 150-grit sandpaper on the ends of the pipe. You want to cut the pipe so you have 2 long half-pipe sections. Lay the pipe flat on your work surface and slice it in half until you break through the wall. Flip the pipe over and cut it in half again until you break the wall and the pipe is separated into 2 long pieces. Then, place a half-pipe section against the bottom rung on the front side of the easel. The half-pipe should overhang by several centimeters on each side. Measure at intervals of 5.1cm (2.0in) up the length of your easel from the middle. Mark the height marks on each side using your pencil. Then, drill holes through the pipe where you've marked the rungs. Use a screwdriver to put your screws into these holes. Use your 1.2 metres (47in) pieces to act as the cross-member.
Summary: Cut a 1.8m (5.9ft) piece of pipe with a saw. Cut 2 more pieces of pipe to a length of 41cm (16in). Cut 8 pieces of pipe and glue them to the fittings. Connect 3 of these pieces with T fittings to make an inverted U-shape. Connect the remaining 3 pieces with T fittings to make an inverted U-shape. Insert the inverted U piece into the other large piece of pipe and glue it. Cut a 1.2 metres (47in) piece of pipe and sand the ends. Cut the pipe lengthwise into 2 half sections of pipe. Set the completed easel upright on its legs on a flat surface. Attach the half-pipe sections with sheet metal screws.

Press the paper towel into the affected area to soak up as much of the wet paint as you can. This will minimize the severity of the stain it leaves behind. Work from the outside of the spot inward, folding the paper towel periodically to make sure you're using a clean section. Don't wipe or scrub the spot, as this will only spread the paint around and enlarge the stain. An absorbent towel will work even better for soaking up the wet paint. Dig out an old one, however, because it will likely be permanently stained afterwards. Add a few drops of a mild liquid dish soap to a container of warm water and stir. For best results, use a standard detergent or even hand soapanything stronger may damage the leather. Avoid soaps and detergents that are advertised as "extra strength" or contain "grease-fighting" agents. These typically contain harsh additives that can strip the color the color from dyed leather and cause cracking or splitting. Soap and water will be useful for cleaning most water-based paints, including interior color and arts and crafts paint. Dip the brush into the soap solution, then shake off the excess water. Wet the paint spot and begin scrubbing it gently. After a few minutes, wipe the area with a clean towel and resume scrubbing. Repeat until the stain has been removed completely. An old toothbrush or nylon dish scrubber will work well for this purpose. Use just enough force to coax out the stain. Otherwise, you may leave noticeable scratches or scuffs. Since leather is a natural material, it's especially susceptible to water damage. You'll want to make sure that you've dried the surface thoroughly once the paint is all gone. If you don't, the residual moisture can cause the leather to crack, split or blister. To dry leather safely and effectively, pat it with a microfiber towel or soft kitchen sponge. Consider treating the surface with a specialty conditioner. A good leather conditioner will enhance the color and texture of leather items while protecting them from spills and other accidents in the future.
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One-sentence summary --
Blot at the paint with a paper towel. Mix up a gentle soap solution. Go over the stain with a stiff-bristled brush. Dry the leather with a towel.