INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Alternate your purple shampoo use with non-tinted shampoos to keep your tint light and even. If you have warmer naturally blonde hair, you may even use the shampoo only when you notice yellowing. Pay attention to your hair and use your judgment when establishing a routine. If you're not noticing any changes after a month, you can always up your routine to 2-3 times a week. Although purple shampoo will not dye your hair, you may notice some lilac tints after you wash if it's too strong. To prevent this, mix your purple shampoo with water in a 2:1 ratio and put it in a spray bottle. If you need to dilute the mixture further, add more water. This option is ideal for individuals with already-warm hair who are just touching up their color. In lieu of using the shampoo in the bath or shower, massage the shampoo into your hair before you get it wet. Let it sit for 10-15 minutes, then rinse it out with cold water. Applying the shampoo dry can leave your hair glossier and rid it of a persistent brassy hue. Try this method if you have severely brassy hair and have seen limited results from washing with purple shampoo. Purple shampoo can dry out your hair over time. To prevent brittle, unhealthy hair, deep condition your hair several times a month after using purple shampoo, or whenever your hair starts to feel dry. If your hair is frizzy or flyaway, often has split ends, exhibits a dull color, or is prone to breakage, you may have dry hair.

SUMMARY: Use purple shampoo once a week or whenever you notice brassiness. Dilute your purple shampoo if it's too strong for your hair. Apply purple shampoo to dry hair for a glossy finish. Deep condition a few times a month.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Depending on where you live you will have better luck with some grass varieties than others. Grasses fall into two basic categories: warm-season and cool-season. Warm-season grasses will be able to survive a brutal summer and tend to do well in the southern states. Choose from varieties such as Bermuda, St. Augustine, and Kikuyu. Cool-season grasses handle cold much better than warm-season grasses. They can tolerate freezing temperatures and some drought. Don't expect them to survive the heat or go longer than 4 weeks without water. Kentucky bluegrass is a popular cool-season grass. If you choose a warm-season grass, plant in late spring. If you choose a cold-season grass, plant in late summer or early fall. If you're going with sod, the time of year doesn't matter as much, though summer may still be too hot. Before you get started planting grass, you'll need to make sure your soil is in good condition. It's a good idea to test your soil. Soil testing will give you an idea of how much fertilizer to use, and what kind. It is difficult to amend soil in an established lawn. If you need to add fertilizer work it into the first 4-6 inches. This is a critical step. Soil preparation is the most important part of healthy lawn growth. Your goal is a soil that is loose, rich in organic matter, and able to hold moisture while draining well. Clear the area of all weeds, rocks, and roots. Using a shovel dig up any large objects in the area where you'll be planting grass. Make sure you get rid of all weed roots. You may have to use a chemical weed killer to get rid of weeds completely. If you must use chemicals, refer to the manufacturer for instructions on how much to use. Till your soil either by hand or using a rototiller depending on the size of the area. This is the perfect opportunity to mix any compost or other amendments to your soil. Add gypsum to your soil to improve drainage. Now that you've cleared and tilled the area, it is ready for leveling. Use a garden rake and smooth out the entire area. Fill in any low spots and break up any remaining clumps. While leveling the area it is a good idea to apply a "grade," or slope, away from the house foundation. Applying a grade will help you avoid any water runoff problems in the future.
Summary: Pick which grass is best for your climate. Know when to start. Test your soil. Prepare your soil. Level out the area.

Your object has volume and weight, which, when light falls on it, results in shadows and highlights. Instead of drawing the outline of your object, try starting by sketching a well-balanced separation of light and dark areas. Approach shadows as you would a flat, graphic shapes. Some may be darker than others, but within individual shadows there should be a minimum of contrast and texture. Use the side of your charcoal pencil to create these shadow shapes, rather than scribbling in lines. Transition from shadows to highlights with halftones. Here, create gradations of contrast with darks from the shadow side and lights from the highlights. Your highlights may have some texture, depending on the material. There may also be areas without any texture. Hold a charcoal pencil like a brush. Use the length of the charcoal to produce thin lines, and the side for softer, thicker lines. You can also transition the line from thick to thin to produce a taper (great for lines moving between shadows and highlights). If you are drawing from life, walk around the model or object and observe it from all angles. If you're having a hard time conveying light and shade properly, make a basic model of your subject with moulding clay. It needn't be perfect: the point is to help you see how light bounces off the shape, creating highlights and shadows. Negative space is all the space between objects. Looking at negative space can be very helpful in understanding volume, as well as for measuring distances between things. As an exercise, you can draw negative space only (rather than the object). This is particularly effective when working with a heavier medium like charcoal. This is a trick you can use to make your picture "pop": it brings out strong contrast and drop shadows, which often give the illusion of reality.
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One-sentence summary -- Practice drawing shadows and highlights. When you do use a line to draw, convey volume by varying line weight. Pay attention to the direction of the light source and see how shadows fall. Make a mould of your subject. Practice drawing negative space. Use dramatic lighting.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Look for bright, green leaves without brown spots. You can purchase your basil or pick it from your garden. Remove the leaves from the stems, discarding the stems. This method tends to bring out a stronger flavor in the oil, as the basil is cooked in the oil rather than in the water. In a blender or food processor, pour in 1 cup of oil, and add the bunch of basil leaves. Blend the mixture until you have made it smooth. Place a small skillet on the stove, and turn it to medium to medium-high heat. Pour the basil oil into the skillet, and let it heat for about 3 minutes. Take the pan off the heat. Do not let the oil boil. It should stay at a light simmer, so turn down the heat if the oil is getting too hot. Place a fine mesh strainer over an airtight container with its lid off. Pour the oil through the strainer. Don't push on the pulp, as it can make it fall through the strainer. Gently shake or tap the strainer to help the oil through. Place the oil in the refrigerator. It should be good for about a week.

SUMMARY:
Choose a fresh bunch of basil. Add the basil and oil to a blender. Heat a small skillet. Add the basil oil. Strain the oil. Keep the oil in the refrigerator.