Use a body scrub and a loofah to get rid of dead surface skin cells, or you'll come out of your tanning session looking speckled. Otherwise, they may end up turning dark brown or orange. When you use clear aerosols, you may have a difficult time telling how much spray tan you've applied to your skin. Get into your shower and close the curtain so that you don't accidentally spray tanning product onto other bathroom surfaces. Put extra moisturizer on your knees and elbows, and spray them lightly compared to other areas. Spray product into the air and step back into it as you would if you were applying perfume. Do this 2 to 3 times to make sure that you get enough product on your back. You can also buy a specially designed tanner remover to take off dark spots, streaks or other application errors. Expect to pay between $80 and $100.

Summary: Exfoliate before you start. Put moisturizer on your fingernails, toenails, feet and eyebrows. Choose a tinted aerosol if you're doing your spray tan at home. Put a towel down on the base of your shower. Go easy on dry areas. Use a special technique to spray your back. Correct mistakes with a sponge brush. Get a salon airbrush tan if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.

This is very important because any oils will prevent the paint from sticking. It will also get rid of any sanding dust if you trimmed the hook down. Simply soak a cotton ball in rubbing alcohol, then wipe down the outside surface. You should do this even if you just took the hook out of the packaging. You don't need to wipe down the back of the hook because you won't be painting it. If you paint the entire hook to match your wall, then the actual hooked part will show up against the curtain rod. Masking the hooked part off will leave the original color behind, and help it blend into the rod. Tear off a piece of making tape, then wrap it around the hooked part of your Command hook. Stop when you reach the rectangle or oval that the hook is attached to. You can use the brush-on or spray-on kind of primer. If you are using the spray-on kind, be sure to work in a well-ventilated area and to cover your work surface with a sheet of newspaper. Shake the can before using it, and hold it several inches/centimeters away from the surface. Let the paint dry before moving on. Make sure that you use a primer made for plastic surfaces. If the primer doesn't stick, then the paint won't stick either. You can use spray paint for this, but it would be easier to color-match the hook to your wall with interior wall paint. Use a small brush to apply the paint in neat, overlapping rows. Let the paint dry, then add a second layer if it is thin or streaky. If you are working with spray paint, be sure to paint on top of a sheet of newspaper in a well-ventilated area. Use a sweeping side-to-side motion. If you live in a rental unit, ask your landlord for some spare paint. Apply the paint with a brush. Make sure that you pull the tape straight up and away from the hook. Do not drag it across the painted part of the hook, otherwise you risk chipping the paint. If you get some chips in the paint, fill them in using a small pointed brush and some spare paint. Whether or not the paint needs curing depends on the type of paint that you are using. Most spray paints are ready to use after they finish drying, which should only take 15 to 20 minutes. Many interior wall paints, however, have a curing time in addition to a drying time. Check the label on your can of paint. Don't use the hooks if the paint feels tacky. It has not cured yet. If you use the hooks before the paint finishes curing, it may peel off. Once the paint has dried and cured, the hooks are ready to use. There is no need to seal them because they are not being heavily used. In fact, sealing the hooks may mar any metallic finishes. The base of the completed hook will match your wall, and the hooked part will match your curtain rod.

Summary: Wipe the hook down with rubbing alcohol. Wrap painter's tape around the hooked part. Paint the hook with paint primer intended for plastic surfaces. Paint the hook a color that matches your wall. Peel off the tape once the paint dries. Allow the paint to cure, if needed. Use the hooks.

The simplest way to find out exactly how long your top piece needs to be is to subtract 2" (5cm) from the sill length. That way, you can ensure that the rest of the trim will be proportional to the sill. A window that's 28" (71cm) wide might therefore have a head casing that's between 30-33" long. It's common for the upper casing to be about an inch (roughly 2.5cm) shorter than the sill on either side. If you're using the same casing for the top and sides of the window, the distance that the top piece extends on either side should be equal to the width of the trim. Draw a line with a pencil to indicate the appropriate length of the top piece. Make a perpendicular cut straight across the casing. Mark the length of the top piece from the end of the casing to save yourself an unnecessary cut. For windows with a uniform trim on the top and sides, you'll need to cut the edges of the top piece at a 45 degree angle. This can be accomplished using a miter saw. Cut the casing one one side, then turn it over and make a second cut in the opposite direction. Before you cut your sloped casing, mark your window measurements on your trim piece. Then, cut your 45 degree angle moving away from the measurement lines on both sides of your trim. The shorter part of your head casing piece needs to match your window measurement. The edges of the finished top piece should now fit together perfectly with those of the side casing. If you don't have access to a miter saw, you can also use a miter box and a normal handsaw to achieve a precise angle. Rather than aligning the top piece flush with the upper edge of the window opening, raise it up by " (.32cm) to leave a subtle reveal line. Fasten the head casing using finishing nails, remembering to space them out every few inches across the length of the board. Use a level to confirm that the top piece is even before nailing it down. The reveal line will lend the appearance of added depth to the finished window. If your side and head cases look a little misaligned, you can fix this with a long finish nail. Drive the long finish nail into the top of the side casing and into the head casing, which should straighten them.
Summary: Determine a length for the head casing. Cut the head casing. Use a miter saw to cut sloped casing. Nail down the head casing.