Lay the eggs flat on their sides. Put an "X" on 1 side of each egg and an "O" on the other side. When you turn the eggs in the incubator, you will be able to turn them exactly 180 degrees by following the markings. The eggs need to be turned properly in order for the turkeys to grow. Avoid using colored pencils, pens, or markers. These all contain chemicals that will get through the pores in the shells and harm the turkeys. Arrange the eggs so they all have the same letter facing up. If your incubator has egg holders, place the eggs in the holders with their narrower end facing down. Turn all of the eggs each day to prevent the turkeys from sticking to the shells. Pick the egg up, flip it onto its other side, then put it back down in the incubator. Use the letter markings as a guide while moving the eggs. Turning the eggs prevents the turkeys from sticking to the shells. If you don't turn the eggs, they likely won't hatch. Turn the eggs more frequently to increase the chances of hatching healthy turkeys. This is a time-consuming process, so invest in an incubator with automatic turning if you hatch a lot of eggs. This is called candling, and it allows you to identify the fertile eggs. As you turn an egg, bring the flashlight close to its shell. You will be able to see the turkey embryo, which looks like a dark, veiny blob in the larger end of the egg. If you can't see distinct veins, the egg is most likely not viable and can be discarded. Bad eggs often have black or red rings inside of them. Also, the embryo may look like a small, dark smear against the shell. Some embryos are late-bloomers, so keep the eggs if you're unsure about their viability. Embryos that aren't viable stop growing. If the embryo grows but doesn't have noticeable veins yet, give it a little more time. Make a small adjustment to the incubator's settings to keep the young turkeys happy. Lower the temperature down to about 99F (37C). Raise the humidity up to 75%. At these settings, the turkeys will be ready to emerge from their eggs. If you're using a wet bulb thermometer, it needs to be between 90 and 94F (32 and 34C) The turkeys will be in hatching position during this time, so don't move the eggs at all. Watch the eggs for cracks. Puffy little turkeys will come out healthy and dry on the 28th day. When the turkeys hatch, they may roll over the other eggs. Use the pencil marks to reposition the eggs. Keep the brooder warmed up so the turkeys have plenty of heat when they hatch. Sprinkle sawdust over the brooder floor, then put bowls of food and water in. Once you teach the turkeys how to eat and drink, they will be well on their way to growing up strong and healthy. Newborn turkeys need to be shown their food and water 24 hours after they hatch. Dip their beaks in the bowls, making sure they don't get food or water in their nostrils. Watch how the turkeys react to warmth. If they huddle together under heat sources, the brooder is too cold. If they huddle together away from heat sources, the brooder is too hot.
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One-sentence summary -- Mark the eggs with a regular pencil to track their turning schedule. Place the eggs gently in the incubator. Turn the eggs at least 3 times a day for 25 days. Shine a flashlight on the eggs after 1 week to test their viability. Turn the heat down and increase the humidity after 25 days. Wait 3 more days without turning the eggs for the turkeys to hatch. Move the newborn turkeys into a brooder.

Remove the nut and washers on each bolt and set them aside for final installation. The flange lip will have channels on either side, into which you can feed the heads of the 2 bolts. Position the bolts so that they are pointing straight up and are directly across from each other. If you've lost the new bolts, you can likely reuse the bolts from the old flange, provided that they're still in good condition. The lip of the flange should rest flush on the floor all the way around, while the neck of the flange should slide snugly into the pipe. Position the flange so that the protruding bolts are at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions (presuming that the back of the toilet will be at 12 o'clock). The neck of the flange should have a rubber gasket that creates a seal against the inside of the overflow pipe. If the lip of the flange won't rest flush to the floor all the way around, the flooring is likely warped or damaged due to water. You should do any needed floor repairs (or call in a pro to do them) before proceeding. Use a screwdriver (turning it clockwise) to secure the screws that came in the product package. There will be pre-cut holes in the flange lip where you should drive the screws in. Use a drill to create new pilot holes in the flooring, if needed. Existing holes from the previous flange may be in the same location but be too large to hold the new screws. If so, use a mallet to tap plastic wall anchors into the holes, then drive the screws through the flange lip and into the anchors. Most toilet flanges come with 4 screws, but yours may have more or fewer. Pick out any pieces of wax ring, loose screws or washers, etc. before removing the towel or shirt. Otherwise they may fall down the pipe. Don't plan on using this towel or shirt againjust toss it! Press the rounded side of the wax ring over the pipe stub that surrounds the opening on the bottom of the toilet. Press firmly all the way around the wax ring, but don't deform it. Pros usually prefer to apply the wax ring this way in order to guarantee a good seal around the toilet. However, you can also lay the ring (rounded side up) on top of the toilet flange, then set the toilet on top of it. If you're using the newer type of "wax ring" that is actually a rubber gasket, lay it rounded side up on the toilet flange and place the toilet on top of it.
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One-sentence summary --
Feed the included bolts into the new flange. Push the new flange on and into the outflow pipe. Drive screws through the flange lip and into the flooring. Remove the towel or T-shirt from the outflow pipe. Tilt up the toilet and push the new wax ring into place.