INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Use a mop and warm water to wet your tile flooring before using cleaning agents. Tile is porous and will absorb the water to prevent chemicals from penetrating the tile. You can loosen tough dirt before wetting the floor with a broom, or after the floor is wet using a plastic pot scrubber. Fill a bucket with warm water and a couple of drops of dish soap. Scrub the floor with a nylon or natural bristle brush. You can leave the cleaning solution on the floor for ten to fifteen minutes, as long as it you don't let it dry on the tile. After scrubbing, rinse the flooring twice, if possible with plain water. Dry the flooring with terry cloth towels, if needed. If soap and water haven't worked, try a household or commercial floor cleaner intended for ceramic tile. Find an inconspicuous area and make a small test spot with the cleaner. Use acid-based or chemical cleaner with caution, only if necessary and always following the manufacturer's instructions. Make sure to thoroughly pre-wet the floor first, and completely rinse it afterwards. Acid-based cleaner may be necessary to remove lime or cement mortar staining. Never use abrasive cleaners like powdered cleansing agents, baking soda or even creams advertised as "mildly" abrasive. These can damage the tile's surface and design. Fill a bucket with an ounce of Murphy Oil Soap, 1/2 cup white vinegar, and two gallons of warm water. Dip a toothbrush or other narrow brush into the bucket and gently scrub the grout. Avoid the tiling as much as possible. Since some contact with the tile is inevitable, perform a test first in a small area. Allow the diluted cleaner to air dry on the grout.

SUMMARY: Pre-wet the floor. Scrub mold or mildew with soap and water. Rinse the tiles. Test the floor before using any chemical or acid cleaner. Brighten the grout.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Set a timer and wait for 2 minutes as the debris settles to the bottom of the bucket. The clay will stay suspended in the water. It's okay if there's a thin layer of water on top of the muddy clay water. Empty the contents of the first bucket onto the ground or into a trash can. Then, use a water hose or tap to rinse out the bucket until it's clean. Don't worry about soaping up the bucket. You're just going to use it to rinse the clay again. At this point, the clay should be very watery. Set the bucket uncovered in a place it won't be disturbed. Then, let it sit for at least 8 hours so that the water can evaporate away. Your clay will still be really runny after it sits out overnight. Open the fabric and lay the clay out on the ground. Use your hand to spread out the clay over the fabric so it suns evenly. Check the clay every 6-8 hours during daylight to see if it feels like it's ready for pottery. Expect it to take about a day to reach the right consistency. It's okay to start using your clay for pottery as soon as you're happy with the consistency.
Summary: Let the water settle for 2 minutes so debris will come out. Dump the debris and rinse out the bucket. Leave the bucket of clay-water to dry overnight. Leave your clay in the sun until it reaches your desired consistency.

Keep the plant in a well-lit location (like near a window) away from direct sunlight too much heat and light can stunt growth and burn the leaves. It should also be away from drafts, heat vents, fireplaces or other sources of hot air. Move an indoors plant outdoors in summer to a shady location. It is best to keep in a normal house temperature range, about 65 to 75F (18 to 20C). That being said, cooler night temperatures can be used to initiate blooming. We'll discuss getting it to bloom in the final section. If it's in a north or east-facing window, you won't have to worry about light. But if it's in a south or west-facing window, diffuse the light with semi-transparent curtains or some other light-diffusing device. Put a tray of water next to the plant so that the water evaporates and provides humidity. Alternatively, you can make a humidity tray by placing the pot on a waterproof saucer that is filled with gravel and halfway filled with water. Make sure to not let the pot touch the water when it is sitting on the gravel; otherwise the pot will wick up water and make it easier for the roots to rot. 50 to 60% humidity is the ultimate goal. If your environment is close to that, you should be fine. For the container, some of the cheap nursery planters will work well, and orchid planters (the plastic basket kind) work well also. Pair this planter with a planter that will hold water and allow the basket to fit down into it. Then, place a few medium sized rocks into the bottom so that the basket container will be held about an inch above the bottom. Use a combination of 3 parts potting soil to one part sand for the potting medium. An alternative is one part potting soil, two parts peat moss or compost, and one part sharp sand or perlite. Whichever way you go, pour about two inches of room temperature water into the outer container and set the basket container inside. After about twelve hours, pour out any remaining water. Repeat this as often as the plant needs water; it will vary based on your home's condition. Monitor its need with a moisture prod and adjust accordingly. Plants that are actively growing should be given a blooming houseplant-type fertilizer. This is best done for a plant that is 2-3 weeks old. Follow the label directions for how much and how often to feed. Fertilizing is important to keep the plant in good condition; the joints are fragile and can break apart if the plant descends into poor health. Generally, it should be fertilized 2-4 times a year with a 20-20-20 feed, but stop feeding about a month before the buds appear (this usually means stopping by the end of October).
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One-sentence summary -- Give your Christmas Cactus bright but indirect light. Provide the plant a source of humidity if you live in a dry environment. Use a well-draining container and well-draining soil. Add fertilizer to assist plant growth.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Cut 1 inch (2.5cm) off the stems at an angle and change the water every 2 days to keep the spikes and florets looking fresh. Use a sharp blade to slice off each end at an angle about 1 inch (2.5cm) up the stem. It's important to clip them regularly because microbes will grow at the base and block the flow of water up the stem. If you notice the ends are slimy or dark green after snipping the end, cut it again about 1 inch (2.5cm) at a time until you see a fresh base. Cut gladiolus will last anywhere from 6 to 12 days depending on the health of the plant when you cut it and how you take care of it. Plant food is made of sugar, an acid, and bleach; the mixture feeds the plants while keeping bacteria or mold from growing. Every time you change the water and snip the ends, stir some plant food into the water. The feed will give the flower more nutrients and keep it healthy for longer. You can buy cut flower feed at any superstore or grocery store that has a plant nursery. You can also use half a crushed aspirin pill instead of flower feed. Inspect the stalks twice a week and pinch off any wilted or scraggly-looking florets. This will not only improve the look of the flowers but it will allow new, healthier blooms to grow. Wilted florets will appear shriveled and limp or show signs of discoloration (like darkening or browning). Remove each flower as it begins to wiltdon't wait until the seed head begins to form. Take care to remove not just the shriveled petals but also the swollen bit at the base of the dead flower (where it connects onto the main flower stem). This is the bit that forms the seed.

SUMMARY:
Change the water and recut the stems by 1 inch (2.5cm) every 2 days. Feed your gladiolus with plant food with each water change. Deadhead your gladiolus twice a week to improve their appearance.