Q: You'll be able to make your false eyelashes much faster and without interruption if you have the materials you need on hand. Take a length of string and run it along your lash line. Looking in a mirror, measure your lash line from one corner of your eye to the next. Trim your excess thread so you have a length of string that is the total width of your lashes. If you happen to have saved pre-made eyelashes that you've used before, you can use these to determine your lash-width. This can be anything from a subtle trapezoid to gigantic wavy lashes. Using your lash line length thread, be sure that your paper is the right width for your lash line. You should use your sharp pointed object or a pair of fine scissors to shred the paper to give a realistic look. Be sure to leave a 1-2 millimeter base, otherwise your lashes may not hold up very long. You may need to experiment with the shape of your paper lashes by gently holding it to your eye to see whether or not the shape you have chosen works. Make sure any edges that were created when you cut the lashes are covered. Apply your marker gently to the "hair" part of your false eyelashes, as too much ink may cause discoloration or drooping.
A: Collect your materials. Measure the width of your lashes. Cut out your desired shape. Color your lashes.

Article: A ruler is a measuring stick marked with units for measuring along its edge. These can be made of plastic, cardboard, metal, or fabric. marked units for measuring length along its edge. These can be for either English (inches) or metric (millimeters or centimeters) units of measurement. In the U.S. and the UK, a student's rule is from 12 to 36 inches (30.48 to 91.44 cm), or from one to three feet long. Some typical fractions of inches used to make measurements more accurate are halves and quarters. Some typical fractions of centimeters are thin marks for every tenth of a centimeter (every one millimeter), and thick marks for every half centimeter (every five millimeters). This is a soft fabric tape, also marked with numbers representing inches or centimeters. This can be wrapped around a person's torso, to measure chest, waist, neck, and other sizes for sewing clothing. It may be used for measuring length, such as inseams and sleeves of garments. Using these to measure 3-dimensional objects that are curved is best. These are about 6 feet (1.8288 meters) long in the U.S., and can be folded to fit into a tool pouch or pocket. Carpenters rulers used internationally are usually 2 meters long. These are also called "stick rules". They are often scaled in both metric units (mm, cm and m) and foot and inch measures.. Typically, the inch segments are made up of 8 inches, and fractions are marked to 1/16 inch. Also called measuring tapes, these are flexible metal or fiberglass tapes. These have a spring to rewind them into a case. They are also rolled on a spool in lengths of 100 meters (or 330 feet) and longer. Most measuring tapes have one side for U.S. Customary and one side for metric units, or both on the same side. These are not actual lengths of measurement but will give distances to scale from a size ratio. These are "scale" rulers, with special marks representing a size ratio. For example "1 inch equals 1 foot" (1:12 ratio), "1 mm equals 1 cm" (1:10) or "1 cm equals 1 meter" (1:100). These are used for drawing precisely scaled blueprints and building plans.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Understand what a ruler is. Learn what a seamstress' tape is. Know what a carpenters ruler is. Find a tape measure and look at it. Know what an architect's scale is.

Q: Choosing the right tip can be as important as having the right pressure gauged on your sprayer. Larger tips generally require more pressure, but can cover more ground effectively. Narrower tips, on the other hand, are best for precision work. If you're unsure about the sort of tip you should be using, contact a hardware professional and give her the details of your project. Latex paint works for airless sprayers, but it must first be thinned out in order to flow easily through the nozzle. Add 1/4 cup of water or chemical thinner for every gallon of paint you're using, then mix the two together thoroughly. You may have to experiment with different thicknesses of paint. Load some into your paint sprayer and check the coverage. If it's not spraying evenly, you may need to add more thinner. Latex paint is the default paint for airless sprayers. Chemical thinners are available from paint and hardware stores as well. These work more effectively than water and don't work against the paint's default properties. The type of paint you use for your project will depend on the surface. No matter how well you mix the paint, there may still be little clumps of solid paint. It doesn't take much to clog an airless sprayer nozzle. Take a strainer and strain your paint into another bucket, catching the solid bits and discarding them. An airless sprayer draws paint from a hose. Attach your siphon hose to the back and place it gently in your paint bucket. It's a good idea to do this prior to priming. That way, you'll be able to tell priming is done because paint will start coming through the nozzle. All airless sprayers require priming before they're ready for use. Luckily, this is a fairly straightforward operation, as many airless sprayers will have a "Prime" setting. If your airless sprayer isn't priming successfully, it may help to give the device a slight tap with a hammer. This can loosen any clogged paint inside the sprayer. Keep the nozzle face downward in a bucket to account for paint drips while you're getting the sprayer ready. Making sure your sprayer's in working order before you use it can help prevent big messes. Check the hose for microfractures. Check the nozzle and make sure the filter is clear. Give the paint a quick test run on a surface to make sure the paint's being distributed evenly.
A:
Pick the right tip. Thin the paint. Strain your paint. Set up the siphon hose. Prime the pump. Give your sprayer a quick check before each use.