Article: You'll want to make sure you have everything you need before you begin. In addition to the actual building materials, you'll also need several tools, including a power drill, a router, measuring tape, screws, hinges, and one or two hook-and-eye latches for the enclosure's opening. Wood is the primary structural material. You'll be using it to assemble most of the enclosure. High-pressure particleboard with a laminate coating, pre-built shelving, or high-quality plywood are all ideal types of wood for the enclosure. Be sure you stain the wood before beginning. You'll also need to choose between glass or thermoplastic for the panels of your enclosure. Glass and plastic both help retain heat inside the enclosure, though plastic may be more effective. Before you measure and cut any pieces, you'll need to decide how large your enclosure should be. This will be determined by the size of your snake. If your snake is still growing, size your enclosure to its estimated adult size, which a breeder or snake expert at your local pet store should be able to tell you. Generally speaking, most snakes need at least enough space to stretch out across the cage. Smaller sized snakes like garter and grass snakes can be kept in smaller enclosures, so long as they have enough room. Medium- to large-sized snakes, including king snakes, rat snakes, milk snakes, and gopher snakes, require larger enclosures. Be aware that climbing snakes will do better in a taller enclosure, while burrowing snakes will do better in a longer enclosure. Generally speaking, if your snake is venomous or is capable of moving particularly fast, it's best to put the opening on top of the enclosure. This will help prevent escape attempts while the enclosure is open for feeding or cleaning. If your snake is not venomous and does not move quickly, you can put the opening on the side of the enclosure. Having a side-opening enclosure allows you to stack your snake's habitat between other enclosures (if you have more than one). You will not have this option if you put the opening on the top of the enclosure. If your snake will need an artificial heat source, it may be easiest to put the opening on top of the enclosure. If you're using a glass panel, you may be able to simply place the heat lamp directly on the glass.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Gather your materials. Plan the size of your enclosure. Determine where to place the opening.
Article: The Dark Vengeance box set comes with small missions ideal for learning the game. If you do not have the box set, choose one of the Eternal War missions in your Rulebook. These will set the story for your battle, and explain how to win the mission. Read the mission carefully, since it can add extra rules for how you place terrain and deploy units. Avoid the Maelstrom of War missions for now, which add extra Objectives in the middle of the game. Each player picks one character model in his army to be a Warlord. That unit has the Warlord Trait listed in its entry. If it does not have any Warlord Traits listed, roll on the Warlord Trait table in the Rulebook. It has that Warlord Trait for this battle. You lose the Warlord Trait bonus if that unit dies. If you have any Psyker units, each one generates psychic powers. Check the unit's Codex entry to see which psychic disciplines it knows. For each Mastery Level, choose a discipline and roll on that discipline's chart to see what power the unit has this battle. If you don't like, it, switch to the discipline's Primary power instead. You can play on any flat surface. A 6 x 4 foot board is the most common size, but if you have small armies (500 points) you can use an area as small as 4 x 4. Terrain is optional, but highly recommended, and can be placed anywhere that all players agree on. This can be purchased warhammer terrain or homemade terrain. Warhammer rules always use inches. 12 inches = 1 foot. You don't even have to play on a rectangular board, but most people prefer to. Check the mission for deployment rules. If there aren't any, use any of the deployment zones in the Rulebook. (For example, the two players pick opposite sides of the board and must place their units within 12 inches of that side.) Roll dice to see who deploys first. That player puts down all his units, then the second player puts down all her units. If you can't fit all your units in your deployment zone, read the "Reserves" section of the Rulebook. Whoever deployed first gets to choose whether he goes first or second. (First is usually better.) If he chose to go first, the second play can roll a die. If it comes up 6, she "Seizes the Initiative" and goes first instead. Most missions will tell you how long the game will last, and how to decide who wins at the end of it. If your mission doesn't, try these suggested rules: The game ends in five turns. Earn 1 victory point for each completely destroyed enemy unit. Slay the Warlord: Earn 1 point for removing the enemy warlord First Blood: Earn 1 point if you were the first to destroy a unit. Linebreaker: Earn 1 point if you have a unit within 12 inches of the enemy table edge at end of game. If the mission has objective markers, players take turns placing them. The markers must be at least 6 inches from the table edge, and 12 inches from each other. To control an objective (and earn victory points), you must control all units within 3 inches of the objective. If you have a Battle Forged Army, some detachments will have the Objective Secured ability. Units in these detachments can control an objective even if an enemy unit is nearby, unless the enemy has the same ability.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Choose a mission. Choose an army and warlord. Set up the battlefield. Deploy your army. See who goes first. Check the victory condition. Understand controlling objectives.
Article: Once your male is ready to breed, he will build a large bubble nest which will take 2-3 days. When this happens, turn off the filter and release the female into the tank, but be sure to keep an eye on the pair. The male will probably bully her some, nipping at fins and chasing her around. This is ok as long as neither fish's life is in danger. This courtship may last several hours or even days. Be sure there are plenty of hiding places for the female to escape the bullying, and check on the pair regularly to prevent serious injuries. The male will finally get the female under his bubble nest and they will embrace. It may take a few embraces to produce eggs. Then the female will go into a 'zombie-like' state while the white eggs fall to the ground from her little white ovipositor. The male will swim down and scoop them up, putting them one by one into the nest. Some females will help with this once they recover, but others will eat the eggs, so watch carefully and remove her if she is eating them. They may embrace many more times, but eventually the female will stop releasing eggs. Once the female is done releasing eggs, the male will bully her again, and she will hide. Gently scoop her out and put her into her own tank. Treat her tank with Maroxy to help her fins heal. It is a good idea to treat the breeding tank with Maroxy, too, to prevent fungus from killing the eggs. This will be about three days after hatching. Some breeders will not feed the male at all during this time. This is supposed to reduce the risk of the male eating the eggs and fry. Other breeders will feed him a small amount of food every second day. If you choose to feed him, do not be alarmed if he does not eat right away, but continue to offer the food, and gently remove uneaten food with a turkey baster. Keep the filter off to prevent any current from disturbing the fry, but keep the tank light on day and night.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Remove the divider. Let nature take its course. Remove the female betta. Leave the male in the tank until the fry can swim around .