Make sure that you use shampoo and conditioner that you like. Look at the label and make sure it's formulated for curly hair. Light formulas with mild moisturizers are best for looser curls and oily hair. Thicker formulas are better for tighter curls and drier hair. Tight curls or kinks will usually need a cream conditioner. Dry curls will need a conditioner with heavy moisturizers or oils. For damaged curls, buy a conditioner especially for damaged hair. Curly hair tends to see the most dryness and damage at the ends since the ends are the oldest part of the hair. Focus on conditioning the ends and then work your way up towards the roots. Use more on the ends, and very little at the roots--this will help maintain your hair's natural shape by preventing oily buildup at the roots. Keep the conditioner in your hair for at least five minutes. You can increase the time to fifteen or twenty minutes if your hair is badly damaged or unusually dry. Rinse out your hair thoroughly, using cool water to lock in your hair's natural oils and smooth your hair by sealing the cuticle. Run your fingers or a wide-tooth comb through your hair to detangle it while rinsing. Using a wide-tooth comb is particularly useful for tightly coiled textured hair. Many companies make leave-in conditioners or hair masks, especially for curly hair. These can give your hair additional protection and make managing your curly hair a little easier. Apply according to the package directions, leave in, and style your hair as usual. Air drying is the best way to prevent damage and frizz to curly hair. If you generally rely on blow drying to help style your hair, try other methods to curl or straighten your hair. Too much heat can damage your curly hair! If you use a curler, straightener, or hot comb, set it to the lowest temperature possible. If you use a curler, get a wide diameter one to prevent overusing it on your hair.
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One-sentence summary -- Choose a conditioner of your choice. Apply the conditioner. Let the conditioner sit for five to twenty minutes. Rinse your hair with cool water. Use a leave-in product (optional). Let your hair air dry. Turn heat-styling tools to their lowest setting.

Q: Ballet slippers, jazz shoes, turning shoes, are best for practicing pirouettes. You need something with good range of motion and support. Modern shoes, such as Capezio Foot Undeez or Dance Paws are also appropriate, which cover and support the ball of your foot. They're easy to slip on and great for quick practices. You also need to practice pirouettes in a safe place, clear of any sharp objects or obstacles. It's always preferable to practice in a dance studio under supervision. Your shoulders should be directly over your hips. Straighten your supporting leg to keep your releve should be as high as possible, imagine yourself stretching up to the sky, and into the ground. Make sure your hips are not tilted to the back, or otherwise off-kilter. Imagine your hips were a fruit bowl. Would your fruit spill? A tilted pelvis can often lead to incorrect turns and eventually knee and back problems. Make sure you have a strong plie prep but don't stay in your preparation (plie) too long, because then you will lose the momentum, making it difficult to pirouette.
A: Wear the appropriate footwear. Keep your ribs closed and your shoulders back. Check your hips.

Article: You'll notice that you have "extra" grip on the edges of the deck. Grab a screwdriver, a metal file, or another blunt object, and scrape it around the sides of the board until the griptape develops a white edge. This is a way of sealing the edges of your griptape. If you do this correctly, you'll have a white outline of your deck on your gripthis outline marks out the area where you should cut away the excess grip tape on the side of your skateboard. Make sure to use long strokes instead of short, aggressive onesotherwise, you might tear up the sides. Also be careful not to file off the polish on the edge of your board. Most boards have curved edges from sanding, so you want to trim the tape past the curve along the edge. Make long and steady cut motions for the best result. Remember to hold the blade in a slight angle towards the edge of the skateboard so you don't get a small line of grip sticking out. Use the outline of your grip for reference: you need to cut along the sides of the deck, and around the nose and tail of the board. Make sure to keep all fingers out of the way at all times, as the razor blade can easily slip from the material. Use two hands to make it easier. You do not want it to accidentally dig into the deck of your board! Once the board is completely taped, inspect it for small air bubbles. Use a knife or a razor blade to make small incisions into the grip tape; this should release any bulging air bubbles. Smooth over the incision so that the grip tape sticks smoothly to the deck. If you don't yet have trucks on your board, use a screwdriver to poke eight holes in the griptape where the screws for the trucks will go. If you already have trucks on your board, you can wait to poke these holes until you replace the trucks, or you can poke the holes as follows: Take a second deck of the same size with no trucks on and use it as a "guide" for where to poke the holes. Mark the spots with a pencil or poke a small hole. You can now use a razor blade to cut a hole around the screw, big enough to unscrew the trucks. Unscrew each one and put them back so it looks "cleaner". If you don't have a second board, try to guess where the holes go. Try "following" the screws and poking using a needle. If you poke the center of the deck, the needle won't go far; if you poke the screw, if will go further and you will know where the hole must go. Your first attempt might look a little butchered, so go around and trim up the ridges. Run the Stanley knife, box cutter, or razor blade around the outer edge of your skateboard to remove any extra scraps. Most of the imperfections will not be too noticeable as the deck wears over time. Take a small piece of extra grip or sandpaper and lightly rub the edges where the grip sticks to the board. This may prevent the grip from peeling off the board later. While you have the knife out, you can cut a little triangle (or another shape) between the screw-holes on one end of the board. Some skaters do this to more easily identify the nose or tail of their board. Cut out a circle or a hexagon to give your board some special looks and give it interesting riding characteristics. If you want you can use paint markers or colored sharpies to draw designs or patterns on the grip tape. Be creative!
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Scrape the sides. Use a knife or a box cutter to trim off any excess tape. Flatten out air bubbles. Poke holes to screw the trucks on. Neaten up the edges. Add any last-minute stylistic touches.