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There was a reason you got together to begin with, a seed of love that kept you going this long. If you still feel that love, it's worth working to find a way to communicate and get in sync with each other again. Many loving relationships get off track from time to time. It will take work to restore it, but it's worth the attempt if you know in your heart that you care about this person. Maybe you're the one who is on the verge of giving up on the relationship, but your partner wants to keep trying. If you've been together for a long time, it might be worth giving it your all to try to save it. It might be possible to see your partner's love for you and have faith that even though you're going through a rough time right now, things can get better. Weigh the options and see if it's worth it to you to try for the sake of your partner. No matter how good things used to be, or how much one party wants the relationship to keep going, sometimes it's clear that it has to end. If you've already put in effort trying to save the relationship, and you no longer feel love or the will to try to reignite it, it's OK not to force yourself to keep trying. Don't spend months or years dragging it out and criticizing yourself for not being able to make it work. It's OK to choose happiness over self-sacrifice. When one person stops participating in the relationship, it's better for both people if it ends. There's really no way to work on a relationship that's based on toxic patterns or abuse. No amount of working on communication techniques or trying to reignite the romance is going to make things better long-term. You may feel that you're getting something out of the relationship, but you have a lot more to gain by being free.

summary: Try to save it if you're still in love. Consider trying to save it if your significant other wants to. Give yourself permission to stop trying when you're ready. Don't try to save a relationship that's toxic or abusive.

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Again, steel wool or 600 to 1200-grit sandpaper will work to remove any loose rust, scarring, or pitting from the gun metal. If you plan to remove the gun's finish from the factory before bluing, some recommend using a phosphoric acid-based automotive rust remover to do so. Others use white vinegar, which contains acetic acid, for this purpose. The 19th-century gunsmiths who used this process likely did not have access to the chemicals used to clean gun metal for hot bluing, but the chemical cleaning improves the effectiveness of the bluing. You can use any of the chemicals described in the cleaning step for hot bluing and then rinse the cleaner off in the manner described in the rinsing step. The acid solution actually encourages the metal to rust, but to do so uniformly. Instead of coating the parts with the acid solution, you can instead place an opened container of the acid solution with the gun parts in a cabinet and seal it for a period of 12 hours. The acid evaporates from its container and condenses around the gun metal. This method is called fume bluing. Another variation is to coat the gun metal parts with the rust bluing solution and then put them into a fume cabinet (or, in this case, a damp cabinet) for the same 12 hours. Often, a first layer is applied as a primer before coating the parts a second time and then placing them in the damp cabinet. This stops the rusting process by removing the acid solution. The surface rust is normally removed with a carding brush or wheel, which features very soft and thin wire bristles. In some cases, the metal may develop as deep a coloring as it can, making further bluing treatments unnecessary and ineffective. The oil inhibits the formation of rust and protects the metal finish from dirt, sweat, body oil, and wear. Once you've applied the oil, let the parts stand overnight before assembling.

summary: Polish the parts to be blued. Clean away any dirt, oil, or grease that remains chemically. Coat the gun metal parts with a mixture of hydrochloric and nitric acid. Immerse the gun metal parts in boiling distilled water. Scrub away the red oxide rust that has formed, leaving the black oxide finish underneath. Repeat the acid treatment, boiling, and scrubbing until you have achieved the desired level of bluing. Coat the gun parts with oil.

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Check the edge of the carafe to make sure the top has fit into place and that there is no gap between the lid and the carafe. Placing the top on improperly can cause a big mess when you froth! Hold the carafe firmly with your nondominant hand as you pump the plunger into the milk with your dominant hand. It may require more strength to pump the milk as the foam builds, which is normal. Lift the top off the carafe, and look at the milk. Some people prefer their milk only slightly foamy, while others prefer lots of foam. If your milk hasn't reached your desired consistency, plunge it for up to 30 seconds more. Don't plunge your milk for longer than 1 minute total by hand. Over frothing your milk can cause the air bubbles you've developed to break down. Tap the whisk at the bottom of the plunger on the edge of the carafe. This will shake any excess froth into the container. Tap the bottom of the carafe on the counter once to remove excessively large air bubbles. Your foam will settle a little bit, which is okay. Your milk is now ready to heat and serve.
summary: Replace the lid of the frother. Plunge the handle up and down for 30 seconds. Check the foam's consistency. Remove the lid of the carafe. Swirl the carafe in a circular motion once.