This second coat generally doesn't need to be left on for long. Simply apply it just like the first coat, wiping off after 2-3 minutes. Let it all dry for another 6-8 hours before moving on. Do not add this second coat until the first has finished drying. Stain is for looks, but it will not protect the wood from moisture, oils, or warping. For that you will need to finish the final piece, protecting both the wood and your stain. You can choose from the following options: Water-based polyurethane Polyurethane Wood lacquer Finishing oils Using a clean cloth or foam brush, simply apply a thin, even coat of polyurethane to the wood, then let it dry. Don't worry if it looks milky or white as you apply it -- it will dry clear. Water-based polyurethane is, by far, the easiest finish to apply, though it is less protective of water or oil than other finishes. Apply 2-3 thin coats, making sure there are no bubbles on each one. Let each coat dry, then sand it with 220 grit paper before applying the next one. This is the thicker, almost plastic-like clear coating on many tables and desks. If your furniture is going to be prone to nicks, scratches, and scuffs, this is your best bet for protection. To apply it, use a paint sprayer and aim for an even coat throughout. A natural-bristle brush can also be used, but you must work quickly, as lacquer dries quickly. Let it dry, using a brush to remove any bubbles or unevenness, then sand with fine-grit (220 or higher) paper. Apply 2-3 more coats, sanding between each one. Lacquer is harder to apply but worth the effort for expensive pieces. Apply a little bit of oil to a clean rag and rub it into the dry, stained wood. Let it soak according to the oil's instructions, then rub it off with a clean rag and apply 1-2 more coats. If the piece is subject to lots of wear and tear, this is not a very protective coating. You should use something more durable.
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One-sentence summary -- Apply a second coat of stain after the first has dried for a darker color. Finish the furniture after you're done sanding to protect it. Use a water-based polyurethane for a safe and easy finish. Use a traditional polyurethane for a strong, protective coating. Try out a wood lacquer for a gorgeous, soft finish on high-end furniture. Apply a penetrating oil, like tung, Danish, or antique oil, for a light and beautiful finish.

Brushing is the first step to making it feel at ease, but there are additional techniques. Lay a towel over your lap and gently support it along the length of your thighs. Do not lay your rabbit on their back, as this is extremely stressful for them. Brush your rabbit more often when it's shedding. Rabbits shed about every three months. They tend to shed most heavily in the fall and spring, and comparatively lightly during the summer and winter. Rabbits shed a few different ways. Some rabbits take a few weeks to lose their old coat of fur. You may need to brush your rabbit every few days or multiple times each day depending on its coat length and how quickly it sheds. Other rabbits shed their entire old coats within a day. It is especially important that you do not neglect these rabbits once they start shedding. Rabbits lick themselves like cats to keep clean, and they can get hairballs if they consume too much hair. Unlike cats, however, rabbits are physically incapable of vomiting. Hairballs can cause stomach obstructions and quickly become life threatening by blocking the stomach exit. Remove loose hair as soon as possible or your rabbit will do it during grooming. Wet your hands with the spritzer bottle and gently stroke your rabbit from behind the ears all the way back to the tail. Make sure to do this several times, stroking the sides and belly of the rabbit as well. Your wet hands will help remove the excess fur that your brush brings to the top of the coat. You can often remove a very large percentage of the loose hair by just pulling it out with your hand. A wire-slicker brush is the best way to get the last bit out. This is especially important during shedding season, when the rabbit is both losing and producing more fur. Use your wire brush to remove mats and tangles, then use a softer brush to stroke along the grain of the fur. Never brush the fur against the grain, or the wire brush will severely damage your rabbit's fur.
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One-sentence summary -- Make your rabbit comfortable. Adjust your brushing regimen for the time of year. Understand the important of brushing. Remove more fur with water. Remove the last bit of excess fur.

Open your packet of frozen corn and pour it into a large microwave-safe bowl. If you like, you can break up any clumps of frozen-together kernels to ensure the corn cooks more evenly, but this is not required. At this point, you can add a small amount of water to the bowl if you would like your corn slightly softer when it's done. The extra water will boil and steam the corn as it cooks, breaking it down a little more than it would from ordinary cooking and giving it a softer texture. You may add as much or as little water as you want you can always drain excess water after you're done if you add too much. A good general rule is to use about two tablespoons of water for every pound (16 ounces) of frozen corn you use. Set your microwave to "HIGH" or your preferred cooking setting and let the corn heat for about four or five minutes. Every minute or two, pause the microwave and stir the corn to ensure even heating. Note: These directions assume you're using about one pound (16 ounces) of frozen corn. If you're using significantly less, you may want to shorten this cooking period to about two or three minutes to ensure your corn does not burn or dry out. After the first cooking period, check your corn. Depending on how much corn you used and the strength of your microwave, it may or may not be evenly-heated at this point. If you detect cold spots, stir the corn and return it to the microwave to cook in two-minute intervals. Repeat this pattern until your corn is all the way cooked. When your corn has heated evenly and no icy spots remain, it's ready to eat! At this point, you can add whatever seasonings you want and enjoy. For one pound of corn, about a tablespoon and a half of butter and salt and pepper to taste will give an excellent "classic" savory flavor. There may be some excess water at the bottom of your corn from the melted ice when you finish microwaving. If this is the case, you can carefully pour it into the sink (taking care to avoid touching it, as it will likely be hot) or toss the corn in a strainer to remove it.
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One-sentence summary -- Add frozen corn to a microwave-safe bowl. Optionally, add water. Microwave for four to five minutes. Repeat as necessary. Season and serve. Enjoy!

Locate the power switch on the side of your sewing machine, and switch it to the off position. Do this before you try to thread your sewing machine. You will be inserting the thread through moving parts of the sewing machine. If the machine remains on and you accidentally apply pressure while trying to thread the machine, you could seriously injure your fingers. Since the power is switched off, you will need to adjust the moving parts manually. Turn the wheel on the right side of your sewing machine in clockwise to move the needle upwards. Stop turning when the needle is at its highest point. If you keep turning the wheel, the needle will move back down again, so make sure to stop turning when it reaches its highest point. Locate the lever next to the needle base on your machine. Push this lever upwards to raise the presser foot. Having the presser foot in this position will make it easier to thread the machine because it will be out of the way.
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One-sentence summary --
Turn off the sewing machine. Raise the needle using the hand wheel on the side of the machine. Lift the presser foot with the lever.