Most people will either order fiddler crabs from a pet supplier or purchase them in a store. Before you set them loose in the aquarium or while you are setting it up, release your crabs into holding containers. Use plastic pails or large dishes filled with brackish water as holding containers. Avoid leaving your fiddler crabs in any shipping material. Release them into the holding containers and discard any shipping water. Keep male and female fiddler crabs in separate holding containers if they arrived separately. Cover the containers to keep your fiddlers from escaping. Once you've had a chance to remove the crabs from their shipping or arrival containers and set up your tank, it's time to release them into their new home. Although you can initially release all of your fiddlers into the same tank, watch for aggressive behaviors that may indicate inability to live together. Be aware that although fiddler crabs often travel and feed in groups, that they can be aggressive with one another. This rarely results in injury, but you may want to consider separating fiddlers if one doesn't allow another to move throughout the aquarium. Most crabs feed by "grazing" the sand in their habitats throughout the day. Watch for how much your crabs eat and increase food as necessary, though be careful to not overfeed them because this can make the tank smell offensive and like ammonia as well as muddle the water. Add the following to your tank every day as food for your fiddlers: one brine shrimp or 2 plankton, a few fish flakes, place these only in the water. Change the food up every few days by adding 3 freeze dried blood worms, a few fish flakes, and a couple small pieces of seaweed. Be aware that seaweed will promote algae growth in the tank, which your fiddlers will eat. Recognize that it is not uncommon for fiddlers to eat rotting food. Fresh dechlorinated brackish water is key to maintaining a fiddler crab's health. Add new water to the tank as you see it evaporating. If you notice an ammonia smell or murky water, change the water and sand in the aquarium. Remember to add water that is dechlorinated and brackish. Never use table salt to make brackish water. Crabs molt their exoskeletons in order to grow. Watch for molting and make sure to leave your fiddler alone during this time because she may be very fragile for several days. Be aware that fiddlers may be reclusive and not eat during molting. Avoid removing the molting or molted skin. The crab will eat the skin for calcium. Remove any crabs bothering the molting crab to holding containers. Disease and illness are rare among fiddler crabs. However, not keeping their water clean or housing them in improper temperatures can lead to illness and death. Keep in mind that molting is healthy. Be aware that missing claws and legs are normal and will regenerate. Checking the water for foul smells can alert you to problems with the water. You may find that simply changing the water makes your crabs more active.
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One-sentence summary -- Welcome your crabs home. Release your crabs into the tank. Feed your fiddlers. Change the water regularly. Leave molting crabs alone. Watch for illness.

Hold the container upside-down and shake it lightly to loosen the perennial's roots. Gently pull the plant from the container. Examine the root ball. If many roots are visible, the plant is likely rootbound. To force new growth in a rootbound plant, slice off the bottom 1/2-inch (1.27-cm) of roots using a sharp knife. With your fingers, break up the root ball by separating the roots along the side of the root ball. If you don't break up a rootbound plant, the roots may continue a circular growth pattern and stunt the plant's growth. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/7\/77\/Plant-Perennials-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\/v4-460px-Plant-Perennials-Step-10Bullet1.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/7\/77\/Plant-Perennials-Step-10Bullet1.jpg\/aid2005766-v4-728px-Plant-Perennials-Step-10Bullet1.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":"728","bigHeight":"546","licensing":"<div class="mw-parser-output"><p>License: <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/">Creative Commons<\/a><br>
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<\/p><\/div>"} Using a shovel or garden trowel, dig a hole that is slightly wider and the same depth as the perennial container. If the perennial is planted too deep, the plant will experience stress and may not thrive. Using a garden trowel or your hands, fill in around the plant with soil. Gently tap down the soil around the plant using your hands. The root ball should be even with or slightly below the surface of the garden soil. Water immediately after planting. Examine the plant each day for about 2 weeks while the roots become established. Make sure the soil around the plant is moist and that the perennial isn't wilting. Most perennials need daily watering during the first week, and every other day during the second week. Perennials planted during the summer may require more frequent watering.
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One-sentence summary -- Remove the perennial from the growing container. Dig a hole for the perennial. Place the perennial in the hole. Water the perennial thoroughly.

Plates of the size used as covers for microscope slides would be ideal. Once the plates are cleaned, handle them only by the edges. Do this by touching the surfaces with the leads from a multimeter. Once you have established which side of each plate is the conductive side, place them side by side, one plate conductive side up and the other conductive side down. This will hold the plates in place for the next step. Place the tape along either of the long side of the plates to overlap 1 millimeter (1/25 inch) of the edges. Place tape over the outer 4 to 5 millimeters (1/5 inch) of the conductive side up plate. Put 2 drops on the conductive side up plate, then spread it evenly over the plate surface. Allow the titanium dioxide to cover the conductive-side-down plate. Before applying the titanium dioxide solution, you may first want to coat the plates with tin oxide. Now you'll treat the 2 plates differently. Place the conductive-side-up plate on an electric hot plate overnight to bake the titanium dioxide onto the plate. Clean the titanium dioxide off the conductive-side-down plate and place it where it won't collect dirt. The dye can be made from raspberry, blackberry or pomegranate juice or by brewing a tea from red hibiscus petals. Do this while the titanium dioxide-coated plate is soaking. Mark the side that doesn't conduct with a plus sign (+). You can do this by going over the conductive side with a pencil or by applying a graphite lubricant. Cover the entire surface. Rinse it twice, first with de-ionized water and then with alcohol. Blot dry after rinsing with a clean tissue.
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One-sentence summary --
Obtain 2 equal-sized glass plates. Clean both surfaces of the plates with alcohol. Test the plate faces for conductivity. Apply transparent tape to the plates. Apply a solution of titanium dioxide to the plates. Remove the tape and separate the plates. Prepare a shallow dish filled with dye. Soak the titanium-dioxide-coated plate, coated side down, in the dye for 10 minutes. Clean the other plate with alcohol. Retest the cleaned plate to find its conductive side. Apply a thin carbon coating to the conductive side of the cleaned plate. Take the titanium-dioxide-coated plate out of the dye.