Q: If you try to contain all of your body's nervous energy, then you may find yourself jittering on the stage. Instead, take a quick walk before your presentation. Or, do a few toe flexes or even jumping jacks. Release that excess energy and your body will calm down. Make sure that you are taking deep breaths both before, and during, your speech. You might even think, "in" and "out" and you inhale and exhale. If you find yourself holding your breath, then let it out slowly and continue speaking. Use pauses in your presentation as an opportunity to reset your breathing. You may also want to do a quick body scan. Close your eyes, breathe in deeply, and focus on any areas where you feel yourself tensing your muscles. Take a deep breath in, and try to soften the tension as you exhale. Talk with the organizer for your speech or the teacher for your class and discuss the dress code with them. As you'll be a center of attention, you want to dress the same, or even nicer, than your audience. You can also consider your clothing as your armor and try to visualize feeling stronger when you put on your speech outfit. Try your outfit on before you give your speech to make sure everything fits well and that you feel comfortable. This helps prevent awkward adjusting during your speech. Keep your back straight and stand up as tall as you can. Pull your shoulders back and avoid hunching over. Dip your chin to check your notes, if needed, but then keep your head raised up. Watch out for jittery behaviors, such as tapping your fingers or twirling a pen. Practicing a good deal will help you to spot these actions and work on eliminating them prior to your final speech.
A: Work off some energy before your speech. Keep your breathing even and controlled. Dress to fit the occasion. Maintain confident body language.

Q: Make sure that your horse is secure in cross-ties or being held by a helper throughout the process. Place the saddle directly on their back , making sure that it does not block the front shoulder or extends beyond the last rib in their ribcage. The gullet is the hollow space that runs down the top of the horse's spine. If you stand behind your horse, you should be able to look down the gullet and see all the way through to the horse's mane. On the front side of the saddle, you should be able to stack 2-3 fingers vertically inside the gullet. If you can only fit one finger or less in the gullet, then the saddle tree is too narrow. If you can fit significantly more than three fingers in the gullet, then the saddle tree is probably too wide. An average horse has a topline that peaks slightly at the withers and croup, with a low dip between the two. The two primary problems appear if a horse is swayback (has a significant dip between the withers and croup) or is straight-backed (has little to no dip between the withers and croup). The saddle should match the angle of the topline. Bridging will occur if the saddle rests on the croup and the withers without touching the space between the two. Check this on your horse, as if it occurs it will cause sores on the places the saddle comes into contact. Your horse will require a saddle with a larger bend in the saddle tree. If your horse has a straight back (this is most common in mules), then the saddle will rock back and forth on their back. You can rectify this by purchasing a special mule saddle that has a particularly straight saddle tree. The bars (two parallel bars that run the length of the saddle, giving it support) flare out slightly at the front of the saddle. The most common problem that arises with ill-fitting bars is that there is not enough flare, which constricts shoulder movement and can cause sores. Check to make sure that the saddle flares out from the horse a bit in the front, to allow better freedom of movement. If you're ever not sure if the saddle you're trying out doesn't fit your horse, look to the horse for cues. Their body language will show you if a saddle is uncomfortable or painful, or if a saddle fits well and is tailored to their shape.
A: Place the saddle on your horse's back. Check the gullet clearance. Check the horse's topline. Check the bar flare. Pay attention to your horse throughout the fitting process.

Q: Ensure that all the joints, straps and pivot points are correctly connected. Do this every time you use the table in order to avoid a serious accident. Read your inversion table instructional manual thoroughly before attempting to use the table. It will support your body weight, so it is important that all the steps are done correctly. Make sure you have a friend with you when you use the inversion table for the first time, in case there are problems. They will give you an extra firm support when the table locks into place. Never use the inversion table with bare feet. Raise your feet onto the steps one at a time. Lean forward with a straight back to pull up the lever and lock your feet in place. Inversion tables differ in how they secure your body in place. They may have an ankle bar, body strap or other device, so make sure all the safety gears are locked in place before inverting yourself. You will push off these straps to invert your body. This will allow the blood flow to adjust. Slowly return to the starting position before unhooking yourself and getting out.
A: Secure your inversion table on a flat surface. Wear athletic shoes when you use an inversion table. Step into position, with your back toward the table. Place the straps over your body. Grasp the straps on either side of the table. Return to a horizontal position for 1 to 2 minutes when you start to come up from your inversion.

Q: Once you're certain that your brackets can hold your rod, remove it to attach your curtains. Most rods have stops at the end to prevent the curtains from falling off. Screw off one stop so you can slide on the curtains and secure them to the rod. Some curtains are attached to the rod by curtain rings while others are threaded directly through the rod. Consult the instruction manual your curtains came with if you're unsure. After you've attached the curtains, screw the stop back onto the end of your rod. Hang your curtain rod back onto the brackets to assess how your curtains look. If your measurements were correct and the brackets installed at a level angle, your curtains should enhance the look of your window. If your curtains are too heavy for the brackets, you may need heavy-duty brackets or a rod with added support. Cut your fabric slightly longer than your desired length, then pin your fabric up with needles. Use a sewing machine to hem the curtain in a straight, even line. Make your hem 1 inch (2.5cm) longer than you expect you'll need to avoid shortening your curtains too much. If the curtain rods are uneven, your curtains may appear crooked or uneven. Measure your curtain rod with a level again and re-adjust the brackets as needed until the rods are straight.
A:
Remove your rod to hang the curtains. Add the curtains onto the rod. Put the rod back into place. Hem your curtains if they remain too long.Take your curtains to a local seamstress or hem the fabric yourself. Check your curtains for crookedness.