Q: Steam cleaners use heat and high pressure to get rid of debris. However, if your grout is very old or damaged, you should avoid using a steam cleaner because it may cause further damage. Heat the steam cleaner and then move the cleaning wand along the surface of the grout lines to get rid of any dirt and debris. It is best to try mild solutions first, since they are least likely to damage your colored grout. Start by trying vinegar or baking soda. If that doesn't do the job, you can move on to hydrogen peroxide, which will work with moderate levels of grime. If your grout lines are really grimy, you may need to use oxygen bleach. However, chlorine bleach should generally be avoided. Chlorine bleach will discolor your colored grout, so you should leave it in the cupboard. Instead, choose either hydrogen peroxide or oxygen bleach. If your colored grout is dirty around dishwashers or sinks from hard-water deposits, you can use a vinegar solution. In a spray bottle, pour an equal amount of vinegar and water. Spray a bit of the solution on the grout lines. Then, scrub the grout lines with your grout brush. If you don't have a grout brush, a toothbrush will also work. If vinegar alone isn't working, a good alternative is a baking soda and vinegar mix. Wet baking soda with just enough water to make a thick paste. Apply the paste to your grout, then spray it with vinegar. Let the solution sit until it stops bubbling, then scrub the area with a brush. Rinse with clean water and dry with a rag. Although oxygen bleach does a great job on colored grout, it will eventually wear the color down because of the chlorine. The main advantage of oxygen bleach is that it requires very minimal scrubbing and does not produce fumes. You can find it at most home, hardware and cleaning supply stores.
A: Use a steam cleaner. Start with a mild cleaning solution. Use oxygen bleach sparingly.

Article: . While spectacular, bicycle kicks are low-probability strikes. You're shooting the ball blind, making it more likely that you'll miss the shot, foul a defender, or miss the strike completely. When you're in the box with your back to the goal, look for an open teammate first. If no one is open, consider trapping the ball to your feet first and juking around the defenders, or trying to get a more clean strike on the ball. Putting a little redirectional tap on it with a bicycle kick might be ok, but you'll get more power out of a strike off the ground.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Look for the pass first

Problem: Article: Hold the long end of the lever between your fingers. Once the lever is inside the lock, press the long end of the lever in the direction you would turn the key to unlock your mailbox. While you're picking the lock, continue to press the lever in this direction to apply pressure to the barrel of the lock. Without the pressure on the barrel, you won't be able to pick the lock open. Inside the lock, there are 5 pins that need to be raised to the same height in order for the barrel of the lock to turn and unlock the lock. You'll use the bent part of the lockpick to lift the pins to the right height. When you insert the lockpick into the lock, keep it close to the opening of the lock. That's where the first pin you'll need to raise up is. Seized pins are pins that prevent the barrel of the lock from rotating and unlocking. To find out if the first pin is seized, push up on it using the end of the lockpick. When you feel something push up, you've found the first pin. If the pin pushes up without any resistance, it's not seized. If it's not seized, push it up and continue onto the second pin. If it is seized, wiggle the lockpick up and down to force the pin up above the barrel. You'll hear a click whenever a seized pin is raised up all the way. Each time you lift up a pin with the lockpick, push the lockpick into the lock a little further to find the next pin. If you encounter a seized pin, force it upward using the lockpick. Make sure you hear a click after you raise a seized pin before you move on. Once you've raised all 5 pins, the barrel of the lock should immediately rotate since you're applying pressure to it with the lever. Finish rotating the barrel all the way with the lever until the lock is unlocked. Remove the lever and the lockpick from the lock and open the door to your mailbox.
Summary: Insert the short side of the lever into the lock. Insert the bent end of your lockpick into the lock. Push up the first pin in the lock to see if it's seized. Continue lifting the pins up until all 5 have been raised. Use the lever to rotate the barrel to unlock the lock.

Q: The first stage of making mead is a mixture called a "must." Bring the water to a boil in a large pot and add it to the container you will ferment your mead in, then stir in honey. Do not add the honey to the boiling pot of water or it will alter the flavor of the honey, and the honey may stick to the bottom of the pot. Make sure the honey has fully combined with the water before moving on. Once the honey has fully combined with the water, you can add your fruit and spices to the must. Place your fresh fruit into the mixture without smashing or muddling the fruit to avoid changing the color of the mead. Add your tea bag full of spices and herbs into the liquid and give it a nice stir. For fresh fruit, add 1 pound (0.45kg) per 1 gallon (3.8L) of water. For spices like nutmeg and cinnamon, add 2 tbsp (~14 g) per 1 gallon (3.8L) of water. For fresh herbs, add 1 cup (~25 g) per 1 gallon (3.8L) of water. For dried herbs, add 2 tbsp (~3 g) per 1 gallon (3.8L) of water. After you've combined the ingredients to form the must, you can use a hydrometer to check the specific gravity of the mixture. This will allow you to determine the potential alcohol content of your mead. It's important to check the gravity of the must before you add your yeast because it will be difficult to alter the mixture once the yeast begins working to ferment the must. The baseline reading of your must should be somewhere between 1.060 and 1.120 on the hydrometer. Once you've got the must flavor profile and ABV that you want, it's time to add the yeast. A standard packet of brewing yeast is enough for up to 5 gallons (19L) of mead, so use 1 gram (or one-fifth of the packet) if you're only making 1 gallon (3.8L) of mead. Simply stir the yeast into the must and mix it in thoroughly. Adding too much yeast will only make the fermentation process go a little faster and will not damage or alter the taste of your mead. When the enzymes in the yeast begin to break down the sugars in the honey, it will release gasses that can build up in the container and potentially explode. Use a rubber stopper that fits over the opening in the container, then place the stem of the airlock into the hole of the rubber stopper, and place them both into the opening of the container. It's important that you have an airlock so you can release the gasses while keeping the mead free from any contamination. Whether you're using a plastic container or a glass carboy, it needs to be sealed so the fermentation process can begin, and an airlock is needed to allow the gasses to escape.
A:
Mix 1USgal (3.8L) of water and 3lb (1.4kg) of honey in your bucket or carboy. Add your fruit, spices, and herbs to the container of must. Use a hydrometer to check the specific gravity of the must. Add the yeast to the must. Seal the container of must and attach an airlock with a rubber stopper.