If you intend to serve the trout whole, deboning it with scissors will allow you to keep the fish intact. Start by using the scissors to cut away the fins, the tail and any loose flaps of skin that might get in your way while you're cutting. If the head has not already been removed, use a sharp knife to cut into the upper area of the gills just below the trout's head; there are natural grooves here that serve as vents to the gills and make the perfect place to cut to remove the head. It's not necessary to remove the skin prior to cooking. When removing the head, bear down on the knife and use a quick chopping strike on the back of the blade to sever the backbone without making a mess. Make a small incision in the uppermost part of the trout's belly where you removed the head. Slowly cut down the length of the belly. Use long, smooth motions with the scissors to keep the cut neat and prevent mangling the fish. Keep cutting until you've covered the length of the belly, ending where the tail was. Raw fish sometimes contains small parasites and harmful bacteria. Remember to wash the scissors after using them. Open up the body of the trout by separating the fish at the cut you just made. Place the trout flesh side down against the cutting board. Run a narrow, blunt surface, such as the knife's handle or the tip of your finger, along the backside of the trout where the backbone sits. Apply a moderate amount of pressure and make a few quick passes. This will help loosen the backbone so that it can be extracted with less difficulty. Be careful not to apply so much pressure that you damage the meat. The idea is just to start coaxing the backbone and ribcage away from the body of the fish. Turn the trout back over, skin side down. Take hold of the backbone nearest the tail section and pull it up and away from the flesh to remove it. Pull slowly and gradually, taking care not to tear away flesh or break any bones. When done correctly, the ribcage should come away effortlessly with the backbone. You can also score alongside the edges of the backbone with your filleting knife if you're having a hard time getting it out in one piece. Don't worry if the ribcage doesn't come out as smoothly as you'd life. You'll be picking out leftover bones anyway. With the backbone and ribcage gone, you're left with a nice piece of fish that has been cut down the center and opened up; this is what's known as "butterflying." Keep the trout skin side down and run the blade of the knife along the length of the fish at an angle. This will dislodge any of the small, delicate rib bones (also called "pin bones") remaining in the flesh so that they can be removed by hand or with tweezers. Most of the remaining pin bones will be found in the darker meat around the center of the trout. Remove as many of the pin bones as you can to avoid any unpleasant surprises while eating.

Summary: Snip away the outer anatomy of the trout. Cut along the length of the belly. Loosen the backbone. Remove the backbone and ribcage. Pull out any remaining bones.

Shelties have a history as working dogs, so they enjoy having responsibilities. Try to find ways to involve your sheltie in your chores and other activities. For example, you might have your sheltie wear a light backpack when you go on walks so that he can carry your keys and water bottle. Or, you might train your sheltie to retrieve times for you when you are doing yard work. Shelties are social dogs that often "talk" to their owners. If your sheltie barks at you, talk back and try to get to the bottom of what she is trying to ask or tell you. She may need to go out, need to be fed, or just want some attention. Never punish your sheltie for barking. If you are bothered by your sheltie's barking, then consider using positive reinforcement to get her to stop barking so much. Shelties are smart dogs, so they will need plenty of mental stimulation. Make sure that your sheltie always has some fun toys to keep her entertained. Some good toys to give your sheltie include: puzzle toys chew toys squeaky toys rope toys Shelties enjoy running around for exercise, so make sure that your sheltie has opportunities to patrol the yard or your neighborhood. Try taking your sheltie for a couple of short walks around the neighborhood with you every day. Always keep your sheltie on a leash or inside of a closed yard when she is outside. It is also a good idea to supervise your sheltie when she is outside so that you know that she is safe. onsider crate training your sheltie. Crate training your sheltie can help to teach her that certain items are off limits and it is also a good way to house train your sheltie. If you decide to crate train your sheltie, keep in mind that her crate should be large enough for her to stand up, lay down, and turn around in. It should not be any larger than this. Make your sheltie's crate appealing by placing some comfortable bedding and a toy inside of it. Leave your sheltie's crate open for the first week or two after you get it. The goal is for your sheltie to want to go into her crate and feel safe when she does so. Never shut a sheltie puppy in a crate for more than a couple of hours. Puppies cannot hold their bladders for long and they will end up soiling the crate. Never use a crate as a way to punish your sheltie. Your sheltie should like to go into her crate, not fear it. . Teaching basic commands to your sheltie will help to ensure that she is a well-behaved member of your family. Some good commands to teach your sheltie include sit, stay, lay down, heel, and shake. Some good things to remember about training your sheltie include: Use positive reinforcement. Never hit or yell at your sheltie if she disobeys. Instead, give your sheltie treats, praise, and petting when she does a good job. This positive reinforcement will motivate your dog much more than fear-based training methods. Keep training sessions short and regular. Dogs can't pay attention for too long, so stick to daily 10 minute (or less) sessions. . A well socialized dog is less likely to develop problems with aggression and anxiety, so take the time to socialize your sheltie while she is a puppy (between eight and 20 weeks old). Take your sheltie out with you and invite people over often so that your sheltie puppy encounters all sorts of things such as: children and babies men and women loud noises crowds cars and bikes other dogs cats odd clothing and accessories
Summary: Give your sheltie a job. Talk back to your sheltie. Provide your sheltie with stimulating toys. Make sure that your sheltie has room to run and play. . Teach your sheltie basic commands Socialize your sheltie