Q: You can't use mothballs in the open, so you'll have to keep your home clear of moth food sources. Vacuum out your drawers, closets, and furniture. Get all areas you normally don't disturb, including under furniture. Use the vacuum to get all lint and hair. Any mice or rats that have eaten poison and died in hidden areas can cause moths, so do make sure to clean everywhere. Empty both of them of clothing. Get a surface cleaner or a mild dish or laundry detergent. Soak the rag in the solution and use it to wipe down the entire area. Clean off any clothing separately before reintroducing them to the storage areas. Boric acid is a powder that can be found at stores that carry pest control products. Follow the directions on the label to apply the product. You should only apply a dusting to every crack or crevice in your home. This will take care of any loose moths that may live there.
A: Vacuum your entire home. Wash your drawers and closets. Treat wall cracks with boric acid.

Q: Draw them toward the bottom of the page to leave space in the upper part of the page for the slipper's ribbons, or even someone with the slippers on their feet. These will serve as the interior of the slipper. Make all four ribbons knotted into one bow, as shown. Try to twist the ribbons around each other as much as you can to make them look fancier or more intricate. Remember: it's okay to erase as long as you try again. Make the shape of the slippers slimmer, and put lines in the interior where the foot would have pressed down. (This is especially important if you want to make your slippers appear used.) Use a modular line (which passes from thick to thin line in a single drawing for realistic effect). Erase the pencil. Add color. Of course the standard color for ballet slippers is pink, but you can give yours any color or patterns that you'd like.
A: Make two oval shapes next to one other. Make two smaller ovals inside the bigger ovals. Sketch the ribbons. Neatly outline the slippers and the ribbons over the sketch. Outline the drawing with a black liner.

Q: The fitted shirt will be your template, so make sure that it fits you well. The baggy shirt will eventually turn into your dress. Make sure that it is at least mid-thigh or longer, or it will be too short. Men's large shirts work especially well for this. Turn the larger shirt inside out first. Next, fold both shirts in half lengthwise. If you want your new dress to be sleeveless, tuck the sleeves of the fitted shirt inside so that they are out of the way. Make sure that both of the long, folded edges are aligned. The shoulders and collars of both shirts should match up. This extra space will be your seam allowance. You want to trace around the sleeves/arm holes and side edges. Stop when you get to the bottom of the fitted shirt. Do not draw across the bottom hem. Use a dress maker's pen of light colored fabrics and a dress maker's chalk for dark. Place a long ruler or straight edge on top of your large shirt. Angle it so that it connects with the bottom corner of the fitted shirt and the bottom corner of the large shirt. Draw along that line, then remove the ruler. Take the fitted shirt off first and put it away. Use a pair of fabric scissors to cut along the lines that you drew. Be sure to cut through all four layers of fabric. Keep the right sides facing in as you pin along the two side edges. Do not pin along the armholes or sleeve ends. Use a -inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance and a narrow zigzag stitch. If you added sleeves, be sure to sew along the top and bottom edges of the sleeves, but not the openings. T-shirt fabric does not fray, but this will give your dress a more professional finish. Fold the bottom hem up by inch (1.27 centimeters). Press it flat with an iron, then sew around it using a narrow zigzag stitch, inch (0.32 centimeters) away from the inside edge. You can also hem the sleeves or armholes in a similar fashion. Most baggy T-shirts have a boring collar. Step things up by cutting the collar off first. Next, trim the front of the collar down into a V-neck or a scoop-neck. Fold the edges down by inch (1.27 centimeters) and stitch them in place using a zigzag stitch. Alternatively, you can bind them with bias tape or extra ribbed/jersey fabric. It is now ready to wear! If the dress flares out too much for your liking, turn it inside out and sew the bottom edges narrower so that they don't angle as much.
A: Find a fitted shirt and a large, baggy shirt. Fold both shirts in half lengthwise. Place the fitted shirt on top of the large shirt. Trace inch (1.27 centimeters) around the sides of the fitted shirt. Extend the line to the bottom corner of the large shirt. Cut along the lines that you drew. Unfold the shirt and pin the edges. Sew the side seams. Hem the dress, if desired. Consider modifying the collar. Turn the dress right side out.

Q: Use a circular saw to cut a single 8ft (2.4m) long 2in 8in (5.1cm 20.3cm) board into 8 equal lengths of 12in (30cm) each. Be sure to measure the length with a tape measure before cutting, so you don't cut the boards to the wrong length. These 8 segments will form the feet of the jump, so they should all be identical in length. The 2 posts that form the vertical side pieces of the standard jump will each be made from a 4in 4in (10cm 10cm) 6ft (1.8m) pressure-treated post. To keep the 2 posts steady, each will have 4 feet around its base. Stand each of the posts upright, and place 1 foot against each side of its base. Situate the butt of 1 foot flush with 1 edge of the post. Place the second foot so it butts up against the first, the third so it butt up against the second, and the fourth so it butts up against the third. Think of the feet positioning like hands on a clock. Each of the 2 high posts will have a foot located at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. Visually, they'll more or less resemble a pinwheel pattern. Once the feet are in place, you're ready to attach them to the vertical poles. On all 4 feet, set each of the 4 screws in at least 12in (1.3cm) from the outer edge of the post. A power drill is the most efficient tool for the job. Place a Philips head bit on the drill, and screw each of the deck screws firmly into place. You'll need 32 deck screws total. Deck screws are a little more expensive than other kinds of screws, but won't deteriorate in pressure-treated lumber.
A:
Cut an 8ft (2.4m) long board in 8 sections of 1 foot (0.30m). Position 4 feet around each of your 2 vertical posts. Screw the feet onto the bottom of the posts with 4 deck screws per foot.