Plumb it up with a builder's spirit level if desired backfill the hole, and tamp the fill material to stabilize it. Some contractors prefer to dump dry pre-bagged concrete into the hole and sprinkle with water. This would decrease the finished strength of the concrete by as much as 80% as you can not control even mixing or water proportions. A damp sand feel to the concrete is enough to complete the chemical reaction to make the concrete hard. Adding more water can help to make the concrete easier to place but will dramatically reduce the finished strength. Use 3 parts sharp masonry sand to 1 part type 1 (or type N) concrete for a strong mortar mix or add 2 parts gravel to bulk up each mix. If you are setting a number of posts, consider renting a portable mixer. There is only one hard-and-fast rule when you're digging a fence posthole: Dig a hole for the post that is half as deep as the fence is high. Concrete makes a wooden post rot faster. The wood will rot sooner or later and you will have to dig out the concrete when you replace the post. Instead put a rock/slate into the hole for the post to rest on and fill around it with rocks/gravel and finally sand which you can pound down to keep the post straight.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Install your posts.'" Install the posts, pole, or other item for which you have dug your hole. Use fine gravel tamped down to the bottom six inches (15 cm) and set your post. Plumb the post and install cross bracing on opposite sides to hold the plumb. When using concrete to set the fence posts in place be sure to use proper concrete working techniques to avoid weak fence post anchors. Use the minimal amount of water to mix concrete for maximum strength. For large projects it is more cost effective to make your own concrete mix as opposed to using bagged concrete. How deep to dig the hole? Why use concrete?

You'll need tiles in two different colors. These should be 2x2" (or multiples of 2, such as 2x4" or 2x6"). You can buy these in sheets that you split up or you can buy them individually. Look for sample sheets or sale tiles to save money. You'll also need 1x2 lumber, 1/4" plywood, and glue. If you can only get 2x4" or 2x6" tiles, you'll also need a saw that can handle masonry. Talk to your local hardware store for advice. You'll need to cut a roughly 19x19" base from the 1/4" plywood. The size will depend on whether you are grouting your tiles or not. If your tiles are not already 2x2" square, then you'll want to cut them using an appropriate saw. If they are square but are apart of a sheet, you'll need to use a utility knife to cut them free. Measure and mark for the location of the squares on your base. Then, use grout or glue to secure the tiles to the wood. Let this set completely before continuing. Using a miter saw or miter box, cut and miter your frame (picture frame style) to fit around your tiles. You'll need to adjust the size, depending on whether or not you're using grout, but assuming that you are not then the inside measurement for the frame will need to be 16" and the outside will need to be 19". Paint or stain your frame, or finish it however you want to. Sanding first might help get a better look, depending on the wood you bought. Glue and then place your frame around the tiles. You can add any finishing touches that you want, like attaching shoe molding around the outer rim, in order to get a more finished look. Otherwise, enjoy your new chess board!
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Get your materials. Cut your base. Cut the tiles. Place the tiles. Cut your frame. Paint your frame. Place your frame. Add finishing touches.

Perhaps the easiest way to organize a chest freezer is by food group. In general, try to separate your meat, cheese, vegetables, bread, stock, cooked grains, frozen dinners, and frozen desserts into distinct sections. This will allow you to find food quickly, know where to put new purchases, and see when a type of food is almost gone. If you're using the chest primarily for one type of food, separate items by style, like a chicken section and a beef section, or brand, like a Ben & Jerry's section and a Blue Bunny section. Though a chest freezer offers quite a bit of space, big and hefty foods can fill it quickly if you're not careful. In general, keep products that are large near the bottom of the freezer. The same applies to heavy foods, which can make it difficult to reach items beneath and, in some cases, will even crush lighter foods. Try cutting items like meat and cheese into smaller, lighter chunks that are easier to store. Take pre-made frozen foods out of their boxes to conserve space. It's very easy to forget about food if you leave it in the freezer for too long. Though some frozen items will remain edible for years, food that is near expiration or was previously opened may lose its flavor if ignored. To avoid this, keep old and opened food near the top of the freezer as a reminder to use it. This will give you easy access to ingredients you use frequently, frozen foods you make often, snacks you enjoy daily, and items you make in a hurry. Keep speciality ingredients, occasional snacks, and party items near the bottom since you won't need to access them as frequently. If you're on a diet, try doing the opposite. Keep your favorite treats near the bottom of the freezer, making them harder to eat on a whim.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary --
Separate the food into groups. Keep large and heavy foods at the bottom of the freezer. Place old and opened food near the top of the freezer. Keep food you use often at the top of the freezer.