One of the telltale signs of laryngitis is hoarseness, which refers to the raspy, strained quality your voice gets when you've used it too much. To make your voice sound raspy and gravelly, practice vibrating your vocal chords like you're croaking like a frog. Also practice making bah noises like you're a sheep, because this will also vibrate your vocal chords. After practicing making sounds, start incorporating that same raspy quality into your speaking voice. Another common thing that happens when you have laryngitis is that you'll experience unintentional changes in the volume and pitch of your voice as you speak. When you're speaking, try to make your voice crack as you say certain words, and then make your voice fade out briefly so it's quieter than usual. Alternate between doing this and speaking in your regular (but hoarse) voice. In addition to the voice cracking and fading, you should also whisper more when you speak if you want to fake losing your voice. When you have laryngitis, your vocal chords will often have trouble producing sound, and you can replicate this by dropping your voice to a strained whisper intermittently as you speak. Make sure you continue alternating between your voice cracking, fading, whispering, and speaking hoarsely at a normal volume. When you transition between these different voice effects, try to make the transition as natural as possible so people don't know you're forcing it. Laryngitis often causes a rawness in the throat and a dry throat, so it's common for people who've lost their voice to cough sometimes when they speak. Don't cough too much, but throw in a few dry coughs if you've been talking for a while. A cough is created when your body forcefully expels air from the lungs, which is different from vibrating your vocal chords to create speech, meaning you can still cough if you've lost your voice.

Summary: Sound hoarse. Make your voice crack and fade. Throw in some strained whispering when you speak. Cough when you talk.

Assuming you have more than a few animals, you'll need to mark them to tell them apart. This will help you track individual milk production and illness. Tagging is a common method. Always buy disease-free animals, and keep them isolated from other animals during transportation to your farm. Quarantining new arrivals (and animals that fall sick) is recommended, especially if they do not have trustworthy, recent health records. Your local government or veterinarian can give you specific advice about diseases in your area. Equipment shared between farms can spread disease. Try to confirm where the equipment has been used and whether the animals there were healthy. Disease-carrying ticks are a major problem for livestock. Inspect animals for ticks regularly, and keep the shed area clear of brush. Feeding cattle and other livestock can be a complicated business. There are many different kinds of fodder and forage plants, which provide different amounts of energy, protein, roughage, and various nutrients. A veterinarian or experienced farmer can help you work with the food you have available. Mineral licks and/or mineral supplements are an important part of the animal's diet. Moldy feed or feed stored in the same area as pesticides and other contaminants can transfer dangerous toxins to the milk. Dairy animals have high nutrition requirements compared to animals raised for meat. Improper nutrition can lead to lower milk production or lower quality milk. Milk-producing animals typically need milking two or three times a day. Move the animal to a clean location. Wash and dry your hands and the udder before milking. If you've never milked an animal before, learn how to milk a cow or goat. You will need to breed your female animals regularly to keep them lactating as often as possible. The cycle of breeding, calving, and weaning calves has implications for the animal's nutrition needs, health, and of course milk production. Our guide on cows gives you the basics, but this will vary based on species and age. Unlike farms that raise livestock for meat, you will be calving all year round to keep milk production steady. Keeping track of where each animal is in the cycle is vital so you can stick to a plan that keeps your income as regular as possible. Whether to sell, slaughter, or keep an animal is one of the toughest questions for a dairy farmer. Culling allows you to replace a low-yield animal with a higher-quality replacement, and to increase the genetic quality of your herd. Both of these factors are important, but performing them without a plan can add massive costs for replacement animals. Take this into account in your business plan, and include the cost/profit of producing each male and female calf as well.

Summary: Mark each individual animal. Control the spread of disease. Give the animals proper nutrition. Milk the animal frequently. Understand the breeding cycle. Plan for changes in your herd.

Besides cost and ease of screening, these tests also vary in accuracy. Some physicians will start with the peripheral test and only conduct the centralized test if the first screen indicates poor bone density. Peripheral machines are small and portable, and they check bone density on the periphery of your skeleton, such as finger bones or the heel. They are much cheaper but not always a good indicator of bone health in bones that are the most likely to break. Centralized bone scans involve a large X-ray machine with a movable arm that will scan different parts of your skeleton while you lie on a padded table. This machine tests bone density at your hip, lower back, and forearms to get a good measure of the strength of bones that are most likely to break in a slip or fall. Most individuals receive bone density scans to check for signs of osteoporosis. Bone density scans are often used to detect your individual risk of bone fracture and your personal chance of developing osteoporosis if you do not currently have the condition. Bone density scans can also be used to monitor the effectiveness of osteoporosis treatments.

Summary: Understand the differences between peripheral and centralized bone scans. Know the purpose of a bone density test.

As you jump, pull up on the handlebars to lift the scooter up with you. Tuck your knees to get even more elevation and create as much clearance as possible between the wheels and the ground. Try not let your feet come up before the deck. If your timing is off, you'll lose track of where it is in relation to your feet. The higher you jump, the more time you'll be buying yourself to get the deck all the way around before you land. Once you reach the peak of your jump, flick the rear edge of the deck hard with your toes. It will begin to swing outward in a wide circle away from you. This is the "whip" part of the tailwhip. If you're in a regular stance, you'll initiate the kick with your right foot. If you're a goofy rider, use your left foot. Push against the side of the brake rather than the thinner part of the deck to give yourself a bigger target to aim for. At the same moment that your feet leave the deck, tilt the handlebars slightly in the direction that it's moving and "pump" your arms up and down. Then, tilt the other way as it starts to swing back around. If you do this correctly, it will cause the deck to rotate faster. The arm motion is subtle, and it can be a little tricky to get the hang of it. It may be helpful to practice picking up and spinning the scooter on its own before you incorporate the movement into the trick. Remember, your hands should never leave the handlebar grips during the tailwhip.
Summary: Jump as high as you can. Kick the deck of the scooter behind you with your back foot. Use your arms to assist the spin during the whip.