In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Before the first day of school, it can help to take a practice run so you know how long it will take to walk, bike or drive to school. Then, know exactly where to go for your first class. Get a list of required school supplies from the school or the school's website. Go shopping for your supplies and make sure you have them all ready to take to school. Start off your first day of school with a good night's sleep. Being well rested will help fend off any nervousness you may be feeling. Try to get at least 8 to 9 hours of sleep if you're over 12, or 10 to 11 hours of sleep if you're between 7 and 11 years old. You might be too nervous to eat much, but it's important that you give your body some fuel to get through until lunchtime. Eat something with protein, such as peanut butter toast or eggs. Lay out your outfit for the first day of school the night before. Then you won't be rushing around for a clean pair of pants or your other shoe in the morning. It will help you start your day off calmly when you can envision yourself walking into school wearing a particular outfit. If you're wearing a school uniform, make sure to get it early and make sure it fits well. Wearing well-fitting clothes will help you feel better about starting a new school. Make sure you leave lots of time in the morning to get to school. You don't want to be rushing into your classroom after the bell rings. Arriving early may also give you a chance to chat with a few other students and hopefully make a few new friends. Your parents have gone through many transitions and have attended new schools. Ask them about how they felt making new friends. Remember that if you have moved to a new town, your parents are also going through a transition and needing to adjust to a new job or to make new friends. You can ask them about their day too, and maybe even give them some pointers on adjusting to a new situation.
Summary: Do a practice run of your first day. Get your school supplies together. Get a good night's sleep. Eat a good breakfast. Get your outfit ready. Leave early for school. Talk with your parents about your concerns.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: As a general rule, lining fabrics should be smooth, lightweight, and very flexible. Additionally, if the original dress fabric has any stretch, the lining material must have an equal amount to prevent the fit from becoming warped. Popular lining options include smooth-surfaced cotton blends such as Viole, Habutai, crepe, thin satins, and Georgette. Do not use Negative Weight fabrics, heavy fabrics, or taffeta, crinoline, or tulle as a lining. Negative weight fabrics will alter the form, heavy fabrics will restrict movement, add bulk and weight, taffeta will add unnecessary shape and bulk, and crinoline is harsh on skin, as well as tulle. Consider the color, too. If the dress fabric is sheer, the lining should match either your skin tone or the color of the dress. If the fabric is opaque, you can coordinate the color of the lining material as desired since it won't show through. The amount of material you'll need for the lining should roughly match the amount of material needed to make the original dress. Only calculate the amount of necessary material based on the pattern pieces that will come into direct contact with your body: bodice, skirt, and sleeves. You do not need to include any facings, collars, cuffs, or waistbands. If you're working without a pattern, you'll need to measure the dimensions of the bodice, skirt, and sleeves to determine the required amount of lining fabric. Trace the lining from the original pattern used to construct the main dress, but adjust the edges as needed to prevent the lining from hanging beyond the sides of the dress. Only trace the lining for the bodice, skirt, and sleeves (when applicable). Transfer any pattern markings, but do not include extra material for kick pleats. Do not trace lining for the facings, collars, cuffs, or waistbands. Since the lining must be slightly smaller than the dress, remove 1/8 inch (3 mm) from your lining seam allowance around all of the outer edges, minus any edges that will overlap. In other words, the bottom of the bodice and waistband of the skirt should retain their original seam allowances. Adjust the bottom hem of the skirt to be 1/2 inch to 1 inch (1.25 cm to 2.5 cm) shorter than the main dress. When working without a pattern, trace the lining from the actual bodice, skirt, and sleeves (when applicable), creating separate pieces of lining for each separately attached portion of the dress. Add 1/8 inch (3 mm) seam allowance to the neckline, shoulders, zipper opening, and armholes (sleeveless dress only). Add 1/4 inch (6 mm) seam allowance to the sides. Do not add any seam allowance to the skirt hem. After tracing the lining pieces onto the material, use sewing shears or scissors to carefully cut out each one. Before beginning, it's a a good idea to check the lining against the original dress. All pieces should match the form of the dress at all points, but the seam allowance and lower hem should be visibly shorter. If any of the lining pieces do not match, you'll need to redo them.
Summary: Choose the right material. Purchase enough material. Adjust the original dress pattern. Cut out the lining pieces.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Fumes from stain or varnish can be harmful to breathe. If the room you're working in has external windows, open these as wide as possible. If you'd like to take a further safety precaution, rent a vapor-rated respirator and wear it while you're staining the pine floor. You can rent a vapor-rated respirator at a local hardware or home supply store. Since you'll be working with the windows open, it's advisable to finish the pine flooring on a warm, rain-free day. If you are not impressed with the natural color of the pine flooring and would like to darken it, you can purchase a stain to seal and darken the pine. Visit your local paint store and ask to peruse their stain selection. Speak with the sales staff to determine which brand and variety of stain is best for your flooring, considering its location in your house and the amount of use it will receive. The major difference between stain and varnish is that varnish will dry clear while stain will darken the color of your flooring. So, if you prefer the natural color of the pine flooring and just want to seal it to protect against moisture and scratches, opt for a varnish. Unlike oil, varnish adheres to the top of the wood without soaking deep into the grain. Consequently, you can remove varnish if you decide to. Oil cannot be removed from wood. Oils are a traditional softwood finish that will penetrate deep into the pine flooring. Oil finishesunlike many varnisheswon't peel or flake, and often look better with age. Types of oil commonly used to finish pine floors include: Tung oil, which has a relatively low level of sheen. This leaves the pine with a more "natural" appearance. Linseed oil, which is tarry and so brings out the grain of the pine. Lemon or walnut oil, which are considered specialty oils and may be more expensive. Before you stain the entire floor, test the stain in an inconspicuous are to make sure that you like the color. Apply the stain using a 3in (7.6cm) paintbrush. Let the stain dry for 24 hours. If you like the appearance of the stained sample patch, you can proceed with staining the entire floor. If you don't like the appearance of the stained wood, select a different colored stain. Or, if you realize that you prefer the natural color of unstained pine, opt for a clear varnish instead.
Summary:
Ventilate your working area. Choose a color of stain if you'd like to darken the pine floor. Select a clear varnish if you prefer not to alter the pine's coloring. Apply a colorless oil to preserve the pine's natural color. Test the stain out on a small corner of flooring.