Q: Unlike annual blooms, perennials produce new shoots every year and continue to grow larger. After 3-5 years, your perennials will start to crowd their planting area and make it difficult for them to receive nutrients. Keep track of how long you've had your plants so you know when they're ready to transplant. Note when you add a new plant to your garden or landscaping so you can remember when you need to divide them. Watch your plants to see if they have weak growths, fewer flowers, or a thin/bare spot in the center of the clump, since these may be signs that you need to divide your plants. Dividing perennial plants works best either before or after their blooming season since they're dormant. If you have perennials that fully bloom late in the summer or early in fall, choose a day in early spring to make your divisions so the roots can establish themselves and make your plant stronger. Check that there are no risks of frost or ice before you start planting or else smaller divisions may not survive. Some examples of fall blooms include mums, goldenrod, daylilies, aster, and sedum. Look online for when the last expected freeze occurs in your area so you know when to start dividing your plants. Spring blooms don't have enough time to establish their roots if they're divided right before their bloom. Plan on starting your divisions in the later summer or early fall months so the roots have enough time to grow and recover before the next bloom. Make sure you plant at least 6 weeks before the first frost in your area or else weaker divisions may not survive. Spring blooms include plants like peonies, daisies, irises, and hostas. Check online to find out when to expect the first frost in your area. The heat of the sun can harm and stress your plants if you choose to divide them on a clear day. Check the weather forecast for your area and choose a mild, cloudy day so you can work without damaging your plants. If there aren't any overcast days and you need to divide your plants, pick the mildest day to do the work. Fill up a watering can and thoroughly water your plant and the area around it. The water helps loosen the soil and helps your plant survive once you remove it from the ground. Keep watering until the soil 12 inches (2.55.1cm) below the surface is wet to the touch. Don't overwater your plants so there's standing water around them since it could cause them to get waterlogged and unhealthy.
A: Divide your plants every 3-5 years after planting them. Work on fall blooms in the spring so they have time to grow before blooming. Split spring blooms in the fall so they have time to recover before next season. Wait for a cloudy day to divide your plants. Water your perennials the day before you plan on dividing them.

Article: To dry age your meat safely and properly, you'll need to take steps to limit changes in temperature and humidity. It is especially important to keep your meat at the right temperature during the aging process. Designating a separate dry aging refrigerator or freezer is the easiest way of doing this. Meat will spoil above 40F (4C) but will freeze below 32F (0C). The ideal temperature for aging is 36F (2.2C) throughout the entire aging process. Using your everyday refrigerator is not recommended. The more you open and close your refrigerator/freezer, the more the temperature and humidity will change. You might use a small, temperature adjustable "dorm" refrigerator or a storage freezer for your dry aging. Meats will absorb other strong flavors and odors. Items like cheese, fish, and garlic will likely influence the taste of your meat while it ages. A thorough cleaning before dry aging will help protect the natural flavor profile of your meat. The best way to ensure that there are no subtle contaminants in your refrigerator/freezer is to defrost and clean your freezer with a suitable general purpose cleaner. If smells linger after cleaning, sprinkle a layer of baking soda on the inner surfaces of your refrigerator/freezer and thoroughly wipe it with a rag. Home refrigerators and freezers sometimes do not have as fine an internal thermometer as commercial grade ones. In some cases, your refrigerator might not have an internal temperature gauge, and you'll need to buy one so you ensure a consistent temperature throughout the aging process. A normal thermometer might not stand up to the cold temperatures as well as a specifically intended cold temperature/freezer thermometer. These will likely be available at your local hardware store. You might want to choose a thermometer that has a humidity gauge, as well. For consistent results, a humidity of 60% should be maintained, though many at home dry-agers have found a wider range has little effect on the end product. Air circulation is important for the dry aging process. Limited circulation can lead to your meat failing to dehydrate at the optimal level. Adding a small desk fan to the inside of your meat refrigerator/freezer can solve this problem. You may need to cut a notch in the seal of your refrigerator/freezer for the cord of the fan. After fitting the cord into the notch, you may want to pack any open gaps with some kind of insulation.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Designate a separate dry aging refrigerator or freezer. Clean your refrigerator of possible contaminants. Verify the temperature in your refrigerator/freezer. Add a fan for improved circulation.

Q: Body condition score is an especially good indicator of where particular individual cattle may be in the pecking order. Thinner cows may be the hard-keeper cows that need more energy and protein than the rest of the herd, but they may actually be those that are being bossed around too much and can't get the nutrients that they need for themselves. The fatter cows, too, may either the bossy cows or the easy keepers or both. Cattle on the lower end of the pecking order tend to be less competitive for food than those that are considered the "boss" animals. The bigger bulls, bigger/stronger cows, more robust animals, etc. The "bossy" or "bully" cattle tend to come in when the weaker ones try to get at the feeder first to get what they can, and push those weaker cattle out so they can eat what they like until they are full. The lower-pecking-order cattle don't get what the need themselves, so become thinner than the bossier cattle. Separating the two groups into different pens can help remediate this. Or, spreading feeding stations around may also help because it gives those lower down in the pecking order a chance to get what they need with lowered competition from the bovine bossies in the herd.
A:
Take the pecking order into consideration.