Article: Start by soaking the metal in bleach to kill the mildew and remove discoloration. Make a solution of water and bleach in a 3:1 ratio. Let the metal soak in the solution for approximately 20 minutes. Rinse your metal with plain water after you've finished. If the metal is new or free from any mildew, you can proceed without soaking the object in bleach. Rough up the surface with a wire brush. You can also use an electric sander with coarse sandpaper, a power drill, or a rotary tool to remove all debris. Choose a grit between 36 and 100 to remove rust and smooth flaws. Wear eye protection and a dust mask to avoid getting metal fragments in your eyes or lungs. Use a pair of work gloves to avoid injuries. For large objects, you can remove rust, debris, and old paint with a liquid commercial rust remover. Mineral spirits are a type of turpentine-free paint thinner. Wipe the metal down with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Remove any dust and debris that may be left behind from sanding. Make sure the surface is completely clean and dry so that the primer will stick to the object. Keep in mind that mineral spirits will strip any existing fresh paint. Also remember that mineral spirits will only strip away paint that is still fresh. If you want to remove existing paint that won't come off with mineral spirits, try cleaning your metal with turpentine instead. Spray the primer on the surface in a smooth, even layer. You should coat the metal with primer as soon as the surface has been prepared to avoid dirt or rust accumulating on the surface again. Choose a primer specifically recommended for the type of metal you are painting. Choose a spray primer in the same color as the finish when possible. Try to purchase a primer in the same brand as the paint you will buy, as colors are more likely to be better matched and chemically compatible. Purchase primer that is rust resistant. Priming with a paint brush is very difficult to do without leaving streaks. Use a spray primer for best results. Read the directions on the product to determine the necessary time for the primer to dry. Be sure to shake the can first. Hold down the nozzle and coat the desired areas. Use masking tape or painter's tape to cover any areas you want to avoid painting. Hold the can approximately a foot away from the object. Start spraying off to the side of the object and move the can with a continuous motion across the metal object without pausing. Allow paint to dry. Control your environment. If you are painting a smaller object, you can place it in a cardboard box and apply your paint. If you pause while spraying, you may notice a splotch appear. Use a cloth to wipe away the wet paint immediately before it can dry. Allow the remaining paint to dry before starting again. Galvanized metals have a thin layer of zinc chromate. The biggest reason for paint chipping or not adhering to galvanized metal is that the paint bonds to the zinc coating, or the residue collected on the surface, rather than the metal itself. If you have a piece of galvanized metal, look for a paint that doesn't contain any alkyds, as these oil-based binders can react with the zinc coating. Once the first coat of paint has dried, you will want to apply a second coat of paint to the surface. Adding a second coat of paint will increase the life of your paint job. Allow the paint to dry. To get the best results, always wait 24 hours between applying coats of paint.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Treat any mildew. Remove any rust. Clean the metal object with mineral spirits. Apply a coat of primer. Apply an even coat of paint. Apply a second coat of paint.

Problem: Article: You can either use a microwave-safe bowl or create a double boiler. Stir the chocolate to make sure everything is melted evenly. Prick them in the center, just enough to pick them up from the parchment paper and hold. If you're wanting to present the cake balls on a stick, it's recommended that you use lollipop sticks; these can be found in specialty baking aisles. Dip about 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) of the stick into the melted chocolate prior to inserting them into the cake balls. If you're wanting to present the cake balls in decorative individual wrappers, poke them with toothpicks. While holding the lollipop stick or toothpick, submerge the cake ball into the melted chocolate. When lifting it back up, gently lift them in a swirling motion or give them a gentle shake. If you are using toothpicks, remove them from the balls. Add a very small amount of extra melted chocolate to cover the holes. You can use the back of a spoon to evenly spread out any extra coating as well. Place the chocolate covered cake ball in the same place on the waxed paper. Pick up the next one and repeat the dipping until everything is covered.
Summary: Melt the chocolate. Insert sticks into the cake balls. Dip the cake balls. Repeat with the rest.

You'll need a 14", 7", 6", and three 4" terra cotta saucers. You'll also need 6" and 4" flower pots, a fountain pump, 1/2" rubber tubing, silicone sealant, clear spray sealant, a round file, and a drill with a masonry bit. Spray the inside of the 14" saucer with the spray sealant. Do three coats in total, with dry time between them. Soak the rest of the flower pots and saucers to make them easier to shape and drill. Drill a 1/2" hole for the rubber tubing in the 7" saucer, with a wood block underneath it for support. Then file four notches in the lips of the 6" pot and one of the 4" saucers. File downward angle large notches in the 7", 6", and one of the 4" saucers. These will be the downspouts. With the pump on the 14" saucer, attach the rubber tube to the pump and then then side it up through the hole at the bottom of the 6" pot (with the pot upside down). Arrange the pot so that the cord for the pump goes through one of the notches on the lip of the pot. Now place the 7" saucer on top, facing up. Trim the extra tube, leave about a 1/2", and then seal the edges around the tube with silicone. Place the 4" flower pot upside down and top it with the 6" saucer, and the 4" saucer with the lip on top of the 4" saucer with no cuts. Arrange the saucers and pots so that the downspouts pour into each other. Finally, place the 4" saucer with the notches upside down so that it covers the hole with the tube. Water should flow up from the bottom, pour out the 7" saucer, into the 6" saucer, into the 4" saucer, and then back into the 14" saucer so that the process can start again. The notches allow for water flow, so if you're having circulation problems, try making the notches bigger. You may need to stabilize the fountain by gluing these components together, or by lashing them down with twine. Fill your saucers with river stones or other flow-friendly materials, and then add plants or other decorations to your fountain. Enjoy!
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One-sentence summary --
Gather your materials. Prepare the base. Drill and file the pots and saucers. Assemble the main fountain. Assemble the rest of the fountain. Add finishing touches.