Q: Add enough liquid dish soap to the jar to cover the bottom. Fill half of the jar with warm water and stir to mix. Any liquid dish soap will work, regardless of how mild it is or what additional chemicals it may contain. The right size container will depend on how many stink bugs you intend to capture. A small custard cup or ramekin is enough if you only plan on killing a few of the pests, but a larger jar or small bucket should be used if you plan on taking care of a major infestation all at once. When you come across a stink bug, flick it off its post with a popsicle stick or chopstick and down into the soapy solution. Work quickly. Some species of stink bugs can fly and may escape if you do not manage to flick it off in one fell swoop. Stink bugs should drown within 20 to 40 seconds. The bugs breathe through pores beneath their waxy exterior shells, and when soap plugs these pores up, the bugs suffocate. You could also wear disposable gloves and pick up the stink bugs by hand. Similarly, you could pick them up with tweezers. Picking them up directly ensures that they will not be able to escape, but they may release their odor if you do not work quickly. After you collect a few stink bugs in your soapy water, flush the contents of the jar down the toilet to dispose of the bugs and the dirty water. Wait until you collect a few stink bugs instead of flushing them individually in order to save water.
A: Fill a jar with water and dish detergent. Knock the stink bug into the jar. Flush the dead bugs.

Q: Walk outside in the fresh air and sunlight. While any change in environment is likely to help sleepiness, physically moving outdoors will usually be the best choice. If you are able, move your work outside for a little while. If you cannot go outside, try opening a window for fresh air, or at least sitting near a window with curtains or blinds drawn back to let in natural sunlight. Even if it is dark out, going outside is more likely to wake you up than staying indoors. The combination of fresh air, exercise, and changing the environment are all signals to your brain to wake up. Though natural light is the best, any increase in light can be a shot to your senses and give you a "wake up" surge. Bright light signals to the brain to awaken. If you are unable to access natural light, blue light that is present in LED screens has also showed benefits to wakefulness. Many people find florescent lights draining, especially low-quality or "industrial" type of lighting. It is still better than no light, or dim light, but other lighting types (LED, incandescent, halogen) may be better. Although the light in screens can keep you awake, your TV or computer can lead to both visual and mental fatigue. In addition, these electronic devices are typically done while sitting for long periods. This in turn leads to a groggy, logy, restless feeling. Try stretching your vision by looking at things close up and then far away, alternating very quickly. Also try looking at far-away objects, whether it is gazing at the city skyline, seeing if there is snow on the mountains, or checking for boats on the ocean. Pumping up the volume on your favorite jams and singing along will help you feel more awake. You may need to use headphones if you are in an office setting or if there are other people around. Be sure to select songs that are upbeat and peppy. Get a bonus energy surge by dancing along with the music. Colder rooms are more likely to make you feel alert. Working in an environment that is hot and stuffy can make you feel like you need to nap. Turn down the thermostat and open a window if it is cool outside. If it is a hot day, try turning on a fan and the air conditioning if applicable.
A: Get outside. Turn on the lights. Take a break from screen time. Turn up the music. Turn the temperature down.

Q: Cranberry plants do not compete well against weeds, so it's very important to weed the bed regularly, particularly during the first year. Luckily, the peat moss used in the cranberry plot will inhibit the growth of many common garden weeds. During the first year (and beyond) cranberry plants will need constant watering to keep the soil. If the roots dry out, the plants will die. It is a common misconception that cranberry plants need to be saturated or submerged in water during growing. Although the soil should always be wet (or at least damp) to the touch, it shouldn't be saturated with water. Too much water can slow down root growth and prevent the roots from reaching the necessary depth. Soon, your cranberry plants will start to put out out runners that grow along the ground. The runners should grow until they fill and cover the bed. If they do not, you can fertilize your cranberry bed with a high-nitrogen fertilizer. Only use fertilizer if runners are struggling to grow; too much high-nitrogen fertilizer may cause overwhelming growth. If fertilizing in the first year, fertilize the soil three times -- once at the beginning of growth, once when the flowers bud and once when the berries start forming. In order to contain the spread of runners within the cranberry plot, you may want to line the perimeter of the bed with some wooden or plastic edging. After the first year, you'll need to cut off the nitrogen supply to the runners -- this will encourage them to stop spreading so they will take root and form uprights instead. Use a non-nitrogen fertilizer from the second year onwards. At the start of the second year (and every couple of years after that) you will need to cover the soil with a thin (1/2 inch) layer of sand. This helps to root the runners and prevent weeds. Cranberry plants are susceptible to certain pests and diseases, but these are relatively easy to deal with, provided you know what to look for. Cranberry fruit-worm is a common problem, where grey moths lay their eggs inside the berries themselves. If you spot grey moths around your cranberry plants, you will need to spray the plot with insecticides to kill the eggs. If you do not catch fruitworm on time, the eggs will hatch and the worms will eat the cranberries from the inside out. When this happens, the infested berries will turn red before they ripen. You can deal with this by picking off the prematurely red berries (in addition to the surrounding fruit) and disposing of them. Two other common diseases are red spot (where bright red spots develop on the leaves of the plant) and berry fruit rot. The treatment for both of these diseases is the same -- spray the cranberry plants with an organic, copper-based fungicide between late June and early August, according to the instructions on the label. From the third year of growth onwards, you will need to prune the cranberry plants each spring to control the runners and encourage uprights. You can do this by combing the cranberry plot with a landscape rake, until all of the runners are going in the same direction. This makes it easier to identify the longest runners and cut them back. Do not prune the existing uprights. As time goes on, your cranberry plants may begin to spread beyond the bounds of the original plot. If this happens, you can prune each of the plants back in the springtime, until there is only two inches of growth above the soil line. The cranberry plants will not produce fruit that year, but normal production will resume the following year.
A:
Be vigilant about weeds. Keep the cranberry plants well-watered. Fertilize the soil. Control pests and disease. Prune the runners from the third year of growth.