Article: This tab should be in your Mac's menu bar at the top of the screen. If you don't see Go, click the desktop or open a new Finder window to make it appear. It's at the bottom of the Go drop-down menu. This icon resembles a Mac hard drive with a stethoscope on it. Doing so will open the Disk Utility program. Click your Mac's hard drive in the upper-left side of the Disk Utility window, just below the "Internal" heading. This tab is at the top of the Disk Utility window. It's below the pie chart. Doing so won't immediately delete the partition, but it will allow you to make changes to the system drive. Click the piece of the pie chart that represents your Mac's system. It will usually be on the right side. Click the "Size" field, then type in a new size in gigabytes for your Mac's system drive. For example: if your Mac's system drive is 250 gigabytes and the partition is 250 gigabytes, typing 400 into the "Size" field will set your Mac's drive size at 400 gigabytes, leaving 100 gigabytes for the resized partition. This option is in the bottom-right corner of the window. Doing so will begin extending the Mac's system drive and resizing your selected partition. This will complete the extending process. Your Mac's main hard drive partition should now be resized.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Click Go. Click Utilities. Double-click Disk Utility. Select your hard drive. Click Partition. Click -. Select the system drive partition. Enter a new size. Click Apply. Click Done when prompted.

Problem: Article: Clean the bottom section of your valves with warm running water and a small amount of dish soap. Place the bottom bottom side of the valves beneath the running water, and then apply soap with your fingers or a damp washcloth. Focus on cleaning out the small holes underneath the valves that line up with the slides rather than cleaning the entire valve. Rinse all soapy water from the valve holes. When cleaning trumpet valves, it's important to keep the tops dry. Water will ruin the felt pads at the top of the valves, which will prevent them from aligning properly when your reassemble your trumpet. Do not dry the valves by hand, as you might run the risk of inadvertently running a damp towel near the felt pads. Instead, set the valves aside on a soft towel until you're ready to reinsert them into your trumpet. Place the mouthpiece under warm running water, and insert the brush into the larger end of the mouthpiece. Spin the brush around the inside tubing of the mouthpiece in order to clear out any residue before rinsing again. Use the brush to scrub the outside of the mouthpiece as well. Gently use the cloth to hand-dry the exterior of your mouthpiece. Set it aside on a soft towel to allow the inside tubing to continue to air-dry before reinserting it onto the trumpet. The spit valve is located at the bottom of the trumpet, close to the bell of the horn. Tilt your trumpet forward to allow all liquid to collect in the valve before pressing on the lever of the spit valve to release it. Empty the spit valve over a sink, toilet, or tub in order to avoid making a mess. When there is no liquid left in the valve, take your finger off the lever.
Summary: Wash the bottoms of your valves. Keep the top parts of your valves away from the water. Set your valves aside to air-dry. Clean your mouthpiece with a mouthpiece brush. Dry your mouthpiece with a washcloth. Empty your spit valve.

As with the types of oil stains described above, if you have the chance to do so, you'll want to remove as much oil as possible before it has the chance to set. However, since you're working on a hard surface, you don't have to worry about spreading the stain like you would with fabric, so feel free to scrape, wash, or rub the oil away as needed. If you're working on your driveway, avoid washing oil into your yard. Some types of oil and certain cleaning solutions can be harmful to plants and grass and can even create unsightly "dead spots" in your landscaping. The first action you should take to treat oil stains on hard surfaces is similar, but not identical, to that used for the stains described above. Mix baking soda with water to create a loose (but not liquid) paste, then work the paste into the stain with a sponge or brush. Here, you're using the baking soda as a mild abrasive, rather than for its absorbent properties. When you've given your stain a thorough scrubbing, allow it to sit overnight (or as long as is possible). As it dries, the baking soda paste will absorb the broken-up oil stain, making for easy removal in the morning. For extra cleaning power, you may want to substitute hydrogen peroxide in your paste if you have it. Next, make a cleaning solution from water and vinegar as a cleaning solution/rinse. Mix about 2 cups (473ml) of warm water with 1 tbsp. (14.7ml) of white vinegar. Soak a rag in this mixture, then use it to spread the solution over the stain area, removing any dried baking soda in the process. Allow the solution to sit for about half an hour so that it can soak in and help dissolve up the stain. When you've allowed your makeshift cleaning solution to soak into your stain, remove it with an abrasive that can break up any remaining oil. There are many abrasives that may work here: steel brushes, fine-grain litter, abrasive pads, toothbrushes, and even sand can perform well. If you're working on a hard surface that is vulnerable to damage or scratching, like a stove top, you will want to shy away from harsher abrasives like steel, sand, and so on. Instead, use a toothbrush or sponge. If needed, follow up your initial cleaning and scrubbing with a commercial cleaner to finish the job. A variety of grease-cutting solutions are available at grocery and department stores for relatively cheap. Some of these solutions are for general usage, while others are specially-formulated for certain surfaces (e.g. ovens, stove tops, driveways, etc.). Though every cleaner will be different, most function in the same way: apply the cleaner to the stain, allow it to set, then scrub it off. For certain hard surfaces in the kitchen where oil stains are common, like the stove top and the fan hood, mineral oil can be an effective cleaner. Soak a paper towel in mineral oil, then scrub the stained areas. For particularly difficult stains, you may want to try adding baking soda to the oil stain. In addition to removing stains, this method gives your appliances a pleasant sheen. You won't want to use mineral oil for your driveway unless the stain is fairly small, as, compared to other cleaners, mineral oil can be somewhat expensive and impractical to work with. Some driveway stains, like those from dried-on motor oil, can be especially tricky to remove with normal cleaning methods. In these situations, try using trisodium phosphate (TSP), a heavy-duty cleaning powder often sold at specialty cleaning stores. Mix TSP with water to create a smooth paste and spread it over the stain, then allow it to dry. When the paste dries completely, scrub it away with a rag or brush. Repeat as needed until the stain is suitably reduced or removed. Don't rinse dried TSP down the storm drain, as it is known to be harmful to aquatic ecosystems. When all else fails, try this old-fashioned method used by grandmothers everywhere. Pour a small amount of club soda onto your stain, allow it to set for about five to ten minutes, then wipe it away with a rag or sponge. Compared to other cleaning solutions, club soda is mild, but surprisingly effective. Best of all, it's cheap large bottles of club soda usually only cost a dollar or two at the grocery store.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary --
Soak or wash away excess oil immediately. Scrub with baking soda and water and allow to sit overnight. Soak with warm water and vinegar. Scrub the stain with an abrasive or stiff brush. Use a commercial grease-cutting cleaner. Use mineral oil for kitchen appliance surfaces. Use trisodium phosphate for concrete. Try using club soda.