Q: Villains are the core of your movie. They provide the scares, the plot, and the unique element of any horror movie, and if the villain doesn't work, your movie won't either. The villain doesn't necessarily have to be a person, of course, but it does need to be scary. Oftentimes, the devil is in the details. The mutant people from The Hills Have Eyes, for example, aren't exactly original, but the radioactive, 1950's southwest landscape made them memorable. Jason from Friday the 13th, is a stock serial killer, except for that hockey mask. Throughout histories, villains have been used to symbolize real-world fears. Vampires stood in for the horrors of HIV/AIDS in the 90's. The Host used a fish monster to comment on South Korean economics, etc. Many movies have had success with hordes of villains (zombies, monsters, birds), unseen villains (haunted houses, ghosts), and even a wide-variety of villains (Cabin in the Woods, V/H/S). Villains are not the only way to make a horror movie unique, but you need a good villain or the movie will fail, every time. Horror movies are generally unique because of their villains, settings, and, occasionally, main characters. They are not known for wildly original plots. This should come as a relief, however, as it makes your job much easier. You can, of course, deviate from the following template, but you'll find that 99% of all horror movies follow this structure almost perfectly, even when they seem "different": Beginning: Open on a scary event. This is usually the villain's first victim-- the murder or event that sets the movie in motion and shows the villain's "style". In Scream, for example, it is Drew Barrymore's babysitter character and boyfriend getting murdered. The Set-Up: Who are your main characters, and why are they in this "horrible" place? This is when the teens head to the cabin, or the family moves into the creepy old house. This is the first 10-15% of your movie. The Warning: The first clues that something is wrong begin popping up. Someone might disappear, the furniture might begin to move, or a character awakens some ancient evil. The majority of characters, however, are going to ignore these signs or miss them. This is roughly the 1/3 mark of your script. The Point of No Return: Suddenly, something happens that makes all the characters grimly aware that they are in a terrible situation. This is usually your first death scene or major scare, when the villain becomes apparent to everyone. It occurs roughly halfway through the movie. The characters decide to either escape or fight back. The Major Set-Back: More and more characters are dying or becoming incapacitated, and the villain has the upper hand. Evil is winning, and there may only be our protagonist left to fight it off. Oftentimes the characters believe they have won, only for the villain to come back stronger than before. This comes at the 75% mark of your story. The Climax: Your main character(s) has a final push to save themselves, either by escaping or defeating the villain. This needs to culminate in your scariest set-piece, the most thrilling and terrifying battle/moment seen thus far. The Resolution: More often than not, at least one character escapes, and the villain is defeated. At least, it appears so.... Until the sequel. Most horror movies take place in very few locations, as this allows the audience to get "comfortable" in a location before you scare them. It also leads to a feeling of claustrophobia and makes filming much, much easier. Find your location and bring a camera around to take some video during the day and night, making sure you can film successfully. Good ideas are in the woods (especially at night), cabins, wooden buildings, abandoned houses. Make sure that you have permission to film at the location before you start. Filming takes a lot of time and energy, and you need an undisturbed location to work at for 7-14 days if you're shooting a feature film. They don't necessarily need acting experience, but they do need to be willing to work long hours to get your movie made. Make sure they are willing and able to take orders from the director. Horror movies aren't exactly known for their incredible acting, so try and get actors who seem fun to work with and have a solid scream in their lungs. Making a horror movie takes a lot of gear, including cameras, microphones, lights, and special effects. Luckily, horror movies actually thrive on low-budget equipment. Look, for example, at Paranormal Activity or Blair Witch Project, which used cheap cameras and microphones to glorious effect to make the scariest movie possible. Cameras: For most movies, you need at least 2 cameras, and preferably 3. That said, modern camera advancements have made it possible to film a movie with an iPhone 6, or a bunch of web cameras. The most important thing for a professional film is to have cameras that shoot in the same format (1080i, for example), otherwise the video quality will change with every cut. Microphones: If you're in a bind, spend your money on audio equipment, as audiences are proven to notice bad sound before bad video. While you can use the attached camera microphones, a Tascam or shotgun mic is a great investment to instantly improve your movie. Lighting: 5-10 cheap clamp lights and extension cords have lit many an indie film, but get a professional 3 or 5 piece kit if you can. That said, a variety of bulbs, home-improvement store lights, and high heat spray paint (to color light bulbs) is a great substitute. Essential Accessories: You'll need memory cards, a backup hard drive, tripods, light reflectors, extension cords, black tape (to cover or tape down wires), and computer video editing software. And, of course, you need some fake blood.
A: Come up with an idea based around a villain. Understand the plot of horror movies when writing the script. Find a creepy, accessible location to film in. Recruit a cast. Put together your equipment.

Q: There are a number of ways to turn, but one of the simplest is to lift one ski just off of the snow. This will turn your body in that direction. So if you want to turn to the left, slightly lift your left ski. If you want to turn right, slightly lift your right ski. Also turn by twisting your hips in the direction you want to go. Twisting your hips will turn your skis in the direction you want to go. You can also try pushing down harder on the ski opposite to the direction you want to turn. To turn left, push down on the right-side ski, and the edges of your skis will turn you. The simplest stopping technique is the wedge or snowplow method. Turn the front tips of your skis so they are close together, and the back tips are far away from each other, a shape like a slice of pizza or a wedge. To stop completely, get the back of your skis as far apart as you can without having the front tips touching each other. Point your toes toward each other gradually. If you point your toes together with a quick movement you are likely to throw off your balance. Practice stopping from slow speeds until you get the hang of it. How early you slow down depends on how long the hill is and how fast you are going. For small hills, you should slow down in the last 20 yards or so. On larger hills at higher speeds, look to slow down in the last 20% of the hill. Doing online research is great, but nothing beats having an instructor to give you specific instruction and feedback. Sign up for lessons before you get to the ski resort or ask about beginner classes when you arrive. You may have the option of group classes with other beginners or private lessons, which usually cost more.
A:
Turn by lifting the ski on the side you want to turn toward. Stop by pointing your toes toward each other. Take a ski lesson.