Where you start is up to you, but have a systematic plan for application since you'll be working in sections. For example, you can start at the inner thigh and work your way in toward your crotch, and then back towards your rear. Use your non-dominant hand to gently pull the skin taut where you plan to start. Sitting in front of a mirror can really help with this part. You'll be able to easily see all the sections you've completed and which ones you still need to work on. Pick up some of the warm wax with an applicator stick and gently dab it on the first section of your skin. The thickness of each smear should be similar to the thickness of a nickel. This will make the removal process easier and less painful. Apply the wax slightly past where the hair stops growing, which will give you a "tab" that you can grab onto when you're ready to pull the wax off. As the wax cools, it hardens. Once it's hardened, it's easier to pull off. You'll know the wax has hardened enough to remove when you can tap your fingernail on it and it makes a tapping noise, similar to hard plastic. Hold the skin taut with your non-dominant hand. Grab onto the "tab" at the end of the hardened wax with your dominant hand. Brace yourself! Then quickly pull the wax off in the opposite direction of hair growth. It's going to sting a bit there's just no getting around that but it'll get easier with time and practice. Try to pull the wax off in one smooth motion, similar to ripping off a bandage. Resist the urge to pull the hair straight up. Always pull in the opposite direction of hair growth. Take short breaks whenever you need to in between sections. Don't try to get it over with quickly by waxing large swaths of skin! You won't effectively remove the hair from the area and it will actually hurt even more. Continue working in sections approximately 1in (2.5cm) wide and 3in (7.6cm) long. Keep working diligently you're almost there! Sterilize your tweezers first by wiping them down with a cotton ball moistened with rubbing alcohol. Use the tweezers to remove any stray hairs that didn't come away with the wax. Pluck them one at a time. Always tweeze hairs in the same direction as the hair growth for best results. Once you're happy with your job, gently clean the area with baby oil or a post-wax cleanser. Waxing kits will typically come with specially formulated cleanser, which is another good reason to use one for your first waxing session. However, baby oil will also get the job done.
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One-sentence summary -- Pull the skin taut gently where you want to start. Apply the wax in sections that are 1in (2.5cm) wide and 3in (7.6cm) long. Smear the wax onto your skin in the same direction as hair growth. Let the wax harden for 30 seconds. Rip the hardened wax off in the opposite direction of hair growth. Continue applying wax systematically in small sections. Tweeze any stray hairs along your bikini line that the wax missed. Remove any wax residue with a post-wax cleanser.

Caulk guns cost between five and ten dollars at any home improvement store. Make sure you get one that is made of heavy duty metal. Solid-shaft caulk guns produce very smooth lines and generally get better results. Solid-shafts are a better choice than notched-shaft caulk guns. Trimming the nozzle allows the caulk to flow freely out of the tube. You can control the size of the caulk line, also called the "bead," when you make the snip. The further down on the nozzle you make the cut, the wider the bead will be. For quick, basic jobs, trim the end of the nozzle straight across. Cut the nozzle at a 45-degree angle if you need more precision and control. Check inside the nozzle for a foil seal. If it does have a foil seal, use something sharp and narrow (like a long nail) to puncture it. There will be a long, hooked rod on the end of the gun. Pull it all the way back. This will open up the gun so you can insert the caulk tube. Situate the tube base into the gun first. Then tilt the nozzle end of the tube into the top part of the gun. Turn the hooked rod so that the hooked part is facing up and the side with the teeth is facing down. Gently squeeze the trigger to get the caulk flowing and then it's ready to use. Apply gentle and steady pressure to the trigger. Caulk will begin to flow. Pull the caulking gun along the line or area to be caulked. Keep squeezing the trigger gently as you go to ensure a continuous release of caulk. Move the gun at a steady speed. The caulk will form "beads" as it emerges. Try to get one continuous, even bead along each length. Keep a damp rag (dipped in water or mineral spirits) handy, for fast wiping of mistakes. It is always better to use less caulk than too much. You can always add more on a second pass. To stop the flow of caulk, press the button under the shaft behind the needle. This will relieve tension to the gun and avoid a mess. Don't run the length of the bead any longer than around 5 feet (1.5 meters) before stopping and assessing your work for neatness. If the caulk bead already looks neat and uniform, leave it alone. If it needs to be smoothed out, use a caulking tool, a putty knife, your finger (dampen it first) or a damp rag to pull along the joint and press the caulk smooth. It is far easier to neaten caulk as you go, while it is still damp. Get to it within two to five minutes of application for best results. If you don't stop frequently to neaten the caulk, the earlier portions might dry before you can neaten or mend errors. You'll have to scrape off dried caulk if you want to neaten it. The tape needs to be pulled up before the caulk dries. Lift the edge of the tape up slowly. Pull it away from you and at a 45-degree angle. Do this carefully and try to avoid touching the fresh caulk. You can pull the tape up immediately after you create the bead if you like, but definitely get it up within a few hours. If you go any longer, the caulk could skin over. Allow the caulk at least 24 hours to cure before disturbing it or getting it wet.
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One-sentence summary -- Get a high quality caulk gun made of sturdy metal. Cut the caulk tube's nozzle to the desired bead size. Insert the caulk tube into the gun. Place the nozzle tip on the spot where you need to begin caulking. Check the neatness of your bead. Pull the painter's tape up.

Choose 2 lines that have the same diameter. Position them so the lines are parallel, but the tag (short) ends are facing opposite directions. Wrap 1 tag end back against itself and over the 2 lines to create a loop. Repeat with the other tag end. Moisten the lines with lip balm to make them easier to grip. Take 1 tag end (you can do either side first) and wrap it through the loop and around the 2 lines 6 times. Leave the loop open. Feed the tag end of the same line you used to wrap the lines through the loop. Pull the tag end tightly to snug up the coils. Wrap the other tag end around the 2 lines 6 times. Push the tag end through the loop and pull it tight. To snug the 2 knots against each other, hold 1 main line in each hand and pull gently in opposite directions. Then, use scissors or a knife to trim the excess line from the tag ends.
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One-sentence summary --
Overlap the ends of 2 lines for 6 inches (15cm). Make a loop with each tag end over the lines. Wrap 1 tag end around the 2 lines 6 times. Push the same tag end through the loop then pull it. Repeat the process with the other tag end. Pull each main line in opposite directions and trim the excess line.