Write an article based on this "Use extreme caution with valuable coins. Pick dirt out of small crevices. Rub with silver polish. Wipe with a paste of baking soda and water. Remove hard deposits with ammonium. Use extra-harsh treatments as a last resort."
article: Cleaning a rare, collectible coin can reduce its value by over 50% due to tiny scratches or the removal of the tarnish. If the gentle cleaning methods above do not work, it's safer to have it cleaned professionally or accept an imperfect appearance. Feel free to use the methods below on common, non-collectible coins if you prefer a brighter appearance for your own collection. An even gold, grey, or iridescent tarnish (toning) is desirable and increases the coin's value. A black or blotchy tarnish is not ideal, but harsh cleaning can still lower the value. Continue very carefully or take it to a professional. After washing the coin in soapy water, you may still see dark areas outlining letters or detailed images. Wash again and pick away this dirt slowly and carefully using a toothpick or bamboo skewer. Take care not to scratch the coin, since the pick can scratch away the tarnish. Pointy plastic utensils are slower, but less likely to scratch the coin. Silver polishes clean metal using acid and abrasives, both of which eat away a small layer of metal. This is an easy way to brighten non-collectible coins, but will almost certainly damage the value of collectibles: Put a coin-sized dollop of polish on a soft cloth. Fold the cloth in half to transfer the polish to two sides. Place the coin between the fold of cloth. Rub together briefly. Wipe off the coin on a clean part of the cloth. This cheaper alternative to silver polish also abrades the silver coin, causing scratches that will be visible under a magnifying glass. Minimize damage by using distilled water and mixing in just a little baking soda to make a watery paste. Dip the entire coin the paste, rub between your fingers for a minute, then rinse with water. Repeat two or three times if necessary. Pat dry. A thick buildup on ancient coins is likely "horn silver" (silver chloride). This may be worth removing, especially if it prevents identification. Submerge the coin in a 10% ammonia solution in a tightly sealed container. Remove it after a few minutes, rinse immediately in water, then brush with a soft toothbrush. Repeat as needed. Warning: ammonia liquid and fumes are corrosive. Wear neoprene gloves and work in a ventilated area. Some hard buildups are the result of a different chemical reaction, which may require other treatments. Consult a coin dealer first if the coin might be valuable. The following treatments are especially risky. Without expert supervision, they may remove the tarnish or pit the coin's surface. These are more often used on ancient coins, where heavy buildup may prevent identification or severely lower the value. Relatively modern, machine-made coins should only be treated this way if they have little collector's value and an unattractive tarnish: Soak the coin in a 50/50 mix of distilled water and lemon juice for one hour. Soak the coin in 1 tsp (5 mL) lemon juice mixed into 1.5 cups (360 mL) olive oil. Warm this in a heat safe container inside a water bath, but keep it below boiling. "Dipping" treatments can return a coin to a frosty white silver appearance, which some collectors value. However, this is an extremely risky procedure that can cause blemishes to appear. Hiring a professional is strongly recommended, but you can buy a dipping solution to use at home.

Write an article based on this "Position the cap. Bend the flange. Trace the perimeter. Apply adhesive. Press the cap into the adhesive. Make pilot holes in the chimney. Tighten the screws."
article: Place the cap over the crown of the chimney, keeping it fairly centered over the top flue. Since this type of cap essentially "cages in" the chimney, you do not need to worry about a perfect fit. Just make sure that the entire chimney is covered. Note that the "crown" of the chimney is the concrete area around the flues. Use heavy pliers to bend the flange around the bottom of the chimney cap. Keep bending the flange until it conforms to the outer perimeter of the chimney crown. The "flange" is simply the collar surrounding the bottom of the cap. You need this flange to lie snug against the sides of the crown. Take a dark marker and trace around the lower, bent edge of the flange, making the mark directly on the chimney crown. After tracing the flange, temporarily remove the cap and set it aside. Generously apply weather-proof caulk or a similar adhesive to the crown of the chimney, positioning the adhesive just to the inside of the line you traced. You can slather this on with a trowel, but the easiest way to apply the adhesive is to use a caulking gun. Make sure that the bead you apply is 3/8 inch (0.95 cm) thick. Move the caulking gun gently from side to side, creating a wavy line roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Leave 1/4 inch (0.64 cm) gap at each corner as you apply the adhesive. Place the cap back over the chimney and firmly press the flange down into the adhesive. Let dry. If desired, you could smooth any adhesive that oozes out using a putty knife, but doing so is not necessary. Oftentimes, weather-proof adhesive is enough to hold this type of cap in place. Some caps should also be secured further with masonry screws, though. Check the manufacturer's instructions to determine if screws are necessary. If they aren't you can stop at this step. Place a screw through each hole in your flange. Use a power drill fitted with an appropriate drill bit to twist the screws roughly halfway in place. Work carefully. You will be drilling directly into the chimney crown, and if you are too sloppy or hasty, you could damage the masonry. Use a 3/16 inch (0.5 cm) masonry bit. The masonry screws need to be 1/4 inch (0.64 cm) in diameter and 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inch (3.8 to 4.4 cm) long. You need at least one screw per side. Aside from that, the screws should be spaced about 12 inches (30.5 cm) apart. Go back around the flange and finish drilling the screws in place. The head of each screw should lie flat against the side of the flange. You should still work carefully to prevent any accidental damage to the masonry as you drill the screws in.

Write an article based on this "Purchase a storage cabinet or drawer system. Add drawer organizers. Label your drawers."
article:
Depending on the size of your collection, you can opt for simple plastic drawer sets that only have a few drawers to more elaborate cabinets with many drawers that are usually used to hold crafting or hardware supplies. As with the plastic bins, storage cabinets that feature clear drawers are the best option because you can easily see what LEGO pieces are inside. Look for drawer systems that provide different size drawers, so you can easily organize your collection based on the size of the pieces. In order to maximize your space, it may make sense to store multiple types of LEGO bricks and pieces in a single drawer. To prevent them from becoming mixed up, it helps to have a drawer organizer with different compartments, so you can separate the pieces based on your chosen sorting system. Drawer organizers are available at office and home supply stores. They come in a variety of sizes, and some are even customizable, so you can create the ideal storage for your LEGOs. Even if your storage cabinet has drawers made of clear plastic, it's a good idea to label them with the contents, so you don't have to go searching for a certain piece in the middle of a build. For the most organized collection, be as specific as possible when creating the labels. A label maker is obviously ideal for creating labels for your drawers, but you also easily create custom labels on your computer as well.