Q: Once your plants reach a height of 6 inches (15.24 cm), you should lightly and carefully dig around the base of each plant to loosen the soil. The plant will develop runners as it grows, and each of these runners will develop blossoms. The flowers will wilt and bend down, but you should not pick them off. These downward stems are called "pegs." Your peanuts will grow off of these pegs, and the stems need to find their way underground in order to grow those peanuts. By making the soil looser, you make it easier for the pegs to get underground. After the pegs have found their way underground and the plants themselves are about 12 inches (30.5 cm) tall, you should gently form the soil into small hills around each buried peg and around the base of the plant. Doing this provides extra warmth and protection for the peanuts growing on the ends of the buried pegs. Spread out 2 inches (5 cm) of straw or grass clippings over the area immediately after creating the hills. Mulch prevents most weeds from coming up. Additionally, it also keeps the soil warm, moist, and soft. Do not use heavy mulches like wood chips, though. Additional pegs may need to break through the soil, and they will not be able to do so with heavy mulches in the way. Use a watering can or garden hose with a gentle spray setting to provide the plants with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water each week. Ideally, peanuts should be given a little water at a time. They do best when the soil is slightly dry on the surface but moist at about 1 inch (2.5 cm) down. This can be determined by sticking your fingertip into the soil and noting how much of your finger you can insert into the soil before you feel moisture. Fertilizers are not usually necessary to begin with when growing peanuts, but if you do opt to use a fertilizer, make sure that it does not contain large amounts of nitrogen. Peanuts supply their own nitrogen. Adding more nitrogen to this will produce very bushy plants with thick foliage and little fruit yield. Once the plants begin to flower, you can begin treating them with a fertilizer rich in calcium. Doing so may help maximize nut formation. The biggest threat to your peanut plants are squirrels, chipmunks, and other small critters looking for a free feast. Placing mesh fencing around your plants is a simple, sure way to keep these uninvited dinner guests out of your crop. Push the fencing 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.6 cm) below the ground to protect the peanuts as they grow underneath. Many mice and squirrels will try to dig the plants up after nuts begin forming, and if the netting does not extend below ground, they may succeed. Peanut plants are not usually victims when it comes to pests of the insect variety. Some insects do occasionally make themselves a nuisance, though, including cutworms, cucumber beetles, and aphids. These insects usually attack by eating the plants. Spray the leaves with a pyrethrin-based pesticide for best results. If you want to stick to something organic, sprinkle ground red pepper on the leaves, instead.
A: Loosen the soil after a few weeks. Hill the soil around the base of the plant later on. Lay down a light mulch. Water regularly. Avoid fertilizers with high levels of nitrogen. Protect your plants with mesh fencing. Use insecticide only as needed.

Article: Use your silverware to push any leftover food on your dishes into the trash can. If you have a garbage disposal, you can also put any uneaten food down the drain while your disposal is running. Use the hottest water that you can handle putting your hands in. While the sink is filling up, pour 1UStbsp (15ml) of dish soap into the running water so it creates suds. When your sink is half full, turn off the water. Make sure your sink is clean before filling it up. Start by cleaning dishes such as utensils and drinking glasses. After you're done cleaning the lightly soiled dishes, move onto cleaning your plates and bowls. Lastly, soak and clean any pots, pans, or other cookware since they'll make the water the dirtiest. Keep the dishes underwater as you scrub them to loosen any stuck-on food. Wipe each dish clean with a sponge or a dishcloth in circular motions. After you scrub your dishes, pull them out of the water and look for any leftover food that's still stuck. If the water ever gets too dirty where you can't see through it, drain your sink and refill it. Wipe knives clean from the back so you aren't holding onto the blade. Never keep sharp knives in the sink since they may be hard to see if the water gets dirty. After you wash a dish, rinse it underneath the hottest water you can handle until the suds are gone. Make sure to rinse the inside of bowls and glasses a couple of times to ensure all the suds are removed. Avoid using cold water since they may cause water spots on your dishes. If you have a double sink, rinse on the empty side so you aren't filling up your sink more. If you do not have a double sink, then you may need to drain your sink as you rinse your dishes. Set the dishes inside of a drying rack on your counter or on the second side of a double sink. If you don't have a drying rack, set the dishes upside-down on a clean towel so they have a chance to dry. Leave them to dry for 30-60 minutes. It's best to let your dishes air dry since drying them with a dirty towel will only spread germs around more.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Scrape any leftover food from your plates into the trash or garbage disposal. Fill your sink halfway with hot water and 1UStbsp (15ml) of dish soap. Work from lightly to heavily soiled dishes. Wash your dishes underwater with a sponge or dishcloth. Rinse off the soap with clean hot water. Let the dishes dry in a rack or on a clean towel.

Q: It's important that you keep the waxed area clean, especially during the first few days following a wax. Sweat and dirt can get trapped on freshly waxed skin, contributing to the development of those pesky bumps. Try showering at least once a day and making sure you clean the waxed area thoroughly during your shower. Dead skin cells can build up after you get a wax, clogging the hair follicle and causing ingrown hairs. Try swapping out your regular washcloth for an exfoliating cloth. Then gently rub the wet exfoliating cloth over the waxed area with your favorite soap or body wash. You can buy an exfoliating cloth at your local drug store or online. You can also try a topical exfoliating product, like a post-wax cream that contains salicylic acid. Be sure to apply the products to clean skin and carefully follow the directions on the package. Exfoliating can help prevent and treat bumps. If you have post-wax bumps that are painful to the touch and/or feel pressurized under the skin's surface, you might have infected ingrown hairs. If this is the case, take a warm compress and apply it to the affected area. Leave the compress on for 1-2 minutes, and then swipe the area with a cotton ball soaked in hydrogen peroxide. You can use a warm compress several times to help alleviate the bumps. Calming inflammation after a wax can help eliminate post-wax bumps. Dab a small amount of one-percent hydrocortisone cream on the waxed area after your procedure. For example, a pea-sized amount works well after a brow wax. Use more for a larger area. Apply a thin, even layer across the skin. If you frequently get bumps after waxing, you might want to make an appointment with your dermatologist. They can determine what is causing the bumps, such as a proclivity to ingrown hairs, and whether waxing is the best way to remove unwanted hair. For example, they may suggest a depilatory or laser treatments instead of waxing.
A:
Keep the area clean. Exfoliate a few times a week to treat ingrown hairs. Use a warm compress and hydrogen peroxide for painful ingrown hairs. Use a hydrocortisone cream. Talk to your dermatologist.