Before you starting the cleaning process, go to a side corner of the room. Apply a bit of your cleaning solution to this space and observe what happens. Look to see if the floor appears dull or otherwise impacted by the solution. If not, proceed as planned. If so, consider using an alternate solution or calling in professional cleaners. Select the bare floor setting on your vacuum, making sure that the bender bar underneath does not sit directly on the floor's surface. Follow the grain of your floor and do a few vacuuming passes over the room. Use your vacuum attachment for any corners or crevices. Vacuuming beforehand helps to minimize the movement of dirt and grime on your floor, which can cause streaking. Stand with your spray bottle or microfiber mop against one of the walls with your back facing the rest of the room. This means that you will spray in front of you when walking backwards. This will keep you from stepping on top of the fresh cleaning solution and leaving footprints or other marks. Spray a bit of the cleaning solution onto one of your microfiber mop pads. Or, hold your spray bottle above the floor and lightly mist the surface. Either way, keep an eye on your floor and make sure that it is damp, not soaking wet. Excessive liquid on your floor may cause streaking and warping. After you've applied the cleaning solution, run your mop over the wet areas, making straight strokes. Keep the amount of pressure that you use even and controlled, or you could end up causing streaking by scrubbing some areas too much and others not enough. Every few minutes, stop and look over the floor to make sure that you are not missing any wet spaces. As soon as you finish applying the cleaning solution, go back to where you began and begin the drying process. Walk backward and use a microfiber cloth or mop pad to pick up the moisture from the floor. Moving this way means that you will minimize your footprints, but make sure to buff them out as you go, leaving a pristine surface behind. If you choose to use a microfiber mop, make sure to use a clean pad for the drying stage. Otherwise, you will just apply another layer of dirt onto the clean surface. To keep your pads clean, place them in your washer on a "delicate" cycle or run them under some warm water. Avoid using a laundry sheet when drying your cleaning cloths or pads, as the chemicals from the sheet can lead to streaking when you use the pads or clothes again.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Complete a spot test. Vacuum to remove loose dirt and debris. Position yourself facing one wall. Apply the cleaner. Mop the floor using smooth, even movements. Dry it right away. Use fresh pads, as needed.

Make sure your shoes are clean because dirt, grime, and stains can interfere with how the dye will look on the canvas. Use warm water and soap to clean. Hand washing canvas shoes may easier than tossing them in the washing machine if you just need to do a spot cleaning. You do not need to dry the shoes after cleaning. To dye your shoes you will get them wet ahead of time, so drying them is unnecessary. You should place your dying basin on a hard secure surface that won't move around a lot. This is to prevent the basin full of dye moving around so much that the dye spills over the edges. Additionally, you may want to put down plastic either on the surface you are working on or on the floor beneath your work area. This will protect the area in case of spills. Set out all of your supplies so you don't have to search for them while you are in the middle of dying. It can be pretty annoying if you are searching for something you need while your gloved hands are covered in dye. There are some dyes that need to be used while being heated on a burner. If you are using one of these dyes, and you don't have a portable burner, prepare an area in your kitchen that will be the dying area. Remove all extraneous items that could get dye on them by accident and cover sensitive surfaces with plastic. Consider doing your dying outside if you can. Even dyes that need to be simmered can be used outside if you have a portable electric burner and access to electricity outside. If you can't do your dying outside, you should find an area in your house that won't be ruined if a little dye spills. This could be an unfinished basement or a utility room of some sort. Most fabric dyes need to be mixed with water in order to use them. Some dyes also require other additions, such as salt. Follow the directions on the dye package, as the ratio of dye to water varies by brand. Be sure that you are mixing your dye and water in a container that is big enough that you will also be able to add your shoes to it without spilling over. It's best to have a lot of leeway in this area, as you don't want to have to deal with the mess of spilled dye. You may need to mix your dye on the stove, if it requires heating to high temperatures. Once again, follow the manufacturers directions when using commercial dyes. Whether you need to protect the soles of your shoes depends greatly on the type of dye you are using. There are some dyes that will not penetrate a rubber or synthetic sole, meaning that you can simply wipe any dye off that gets on the sole. Other dyes, however, will permanently dye the sole. To figure out if the dye you have will dye the soles of your shoes, place a little bit of the prepared dye on the bottom of the sole of one of your shoes. Once it is dry try to remove the dye with a little soap and water. If you can easily get it off, great! You don't have to protect the soles from your dye. If not, you should keep all dye off the soles completely. Slick the rubber cement all around the areas on the shoe where you don't want the dye. That goes for the canvas too, so you can etch little designs if you're handy with rubber cement. If you mess up with the rubber cement, don't panic, because as soon as it dries, you can peel it off with your (gloved) hands. Alternatively, you can cover the soles in either high-stick painters tape or a thick layer of vaseline. This technique for protecting the soles of your shoes is best if you don't plan of dipping the shoes completely in the dye, but rather you plan of painting the dye on with a brush. Some dyes require that the shoes are wet before they enter the dye. This is because the dye will move across the surface better if it doesn't have to do the additional work of moistening the canvas in the first place. Use warm water, as this helps most dyes thoroughly penetrate the canvas.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Clean the shoes, if necessary. Set up your dying area. Prepare the dye. Figure out if you need to protect the soles of your shoes. Protect the soles, if you need to. Wet your shoes, if necessary.

to 375F/190C. Leave at least an inch of space between the cookies because they'll spread out when they bake. You can usually fit 12 cookies on a full-sized cookie sheet at a time. Using a spatula, lift cookies off and place onto wax paper, a plate, or a cooling rack. Eat when hot and steamy or cooled and slightly crisp. If you like you can pipe a small swirl of icing or whipping cream on top and add some sprinkles to make it look fancy.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary --
Preheat the oven Drop spoonfuls of cookie dough onto a pre-greased or a lined baking sheet. Let cool for about 5-7 minutes. Go ahead and eat!