Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Hold the ball in a four-seam grip. Align your body with the target of your throw. Draw your throwing hand back. Throw the ball overhand. Aim the ball at the target's chest or mitt. Barehand slow-moving balls. Use both hands on close plays. Spin and throw when you can't stop running.

Answer: Adjust the ball so that one surface is on top with the horseshoe-shaped stitching around it. Place your middle and index fingers over the ball. These fingers should cross over stitching twice. Pull your thumb back behind the ball and place your ring finger beside it. This grip makes your throws stronger and more accurate, which are essential qualities of good shortstops. Practice by throwing the ball up in the air. Catch it and quickly rotate the ball so the stitching is near the top. Finish by applying the four-seam grip. Start with your body sideways. Point the shoulder on the mitt side of your body towards the target. Move the foot on your throwing side back, firmly planting it behind you. You'll need to use this stance to generate power and accuracy. Practice the mechanics until they feel comfortable. As you plant your throwing foot behind you, draw back your arm. Hold the ball so it faces the ground instead of your target. When your arm travels back as far as it can go, you can fire the ball at the target. Balance is essential to a hard, accurate throw. Don't rush. Bring your arm forward. As you do so, the face of the ball will turn inward until it faces the target. Your arm functions like a whip. Use your fingers and wrist to generate power. Remember that you're throwing the ball with your entire body. Follow through by bringing your throwing arm forward after you've released the ball. The middle of the body is a big target. Balls thrown to this area are easier to handle. Don't try to land the ball in the person's glove. Instead, pretend that you're throwing the ball past them, since you'll need to throw harder and faster. Practice this by picking a spot on a wall and trying to hit it. To hit a moving target, you'll need to anticipate where the glove will be. Aim the throw so that it's a little ahead of the target. To get out quick runners, you'll have to change your style sometimes. For a slow-rolling ball, you can try plucking the ball with your bare hand. Spread out your fingers so you have the best chance of getting the ball and adjusting your grip. This throw is often inaccurate, so you'll need to judge whether or not you can get the ball to the target before the runner. Keep your throwing hand near your glove. Plant your front foot when the ball hits your glove. Move the ball into your throwing hand. You may have to use a side-arm throw to get the ball away sooner. Plant your throwing foot as the ball leaves your hand. This kind of throw is useful for balls on the edge of your range. Catch the ball in your glove. Spin away from your target. When your eyes find the target again, throw the ball as you normally would. This throw is tough to get right, so practice finding first base after spinning.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Use two strands of yarn. Tie the two pieces of yarn onto the hook. Chain stitch and single crochet your first round. Single crochet the second round and increase. Single crochet the third round and increase. Repeat this pattern for five more rounds. Change colors before continuing. Change colors after another five rounds. Change colors before completing the final six rounds. over the last row. Tie off the end.

Answer: To create a more durable rug, you will need to work with two skeins of yarn at the same time. Treat the two strands as one as you make your stitches. Use an adjustable knot called a slip knot. Make 21 chain stitches to provide your rug with a foundation. Work 40 single crochets into this foundational chain. Make your first single crochet into the second chain stitch away from your hook after you complete the foundational chain. Single crochet 20 times down one side of the chain. Single crochet another 20 times down the other side of the chain. Make the second round by working another single crochet into each of the 40 stitches completed in the previous round. Increase twice at both the starting and finishing ends of your first round. To make one increase, chain stitch once. To make two increases, simply chain stitch twice. The third round will essentially be the same as the second. Work another series of single crochets into the all of the stitches of the previous round, including the increases, until you travel around the entire perimeter of the piece. For this round, you need to increase three times at both ends. To increase three times, make three chain stitches. For rounds four, five, six, seven, and eight, single crochet once into each of the stitches from the previous row, including the increases. Increase at both ends for each round. Continue adding an extra increase for each round. Round four gets four increases. Round five gets five increases. Round six gets six increases. Round seven gets seven increases. Round eight gets eight increases. Note that if the rug begins to seem too loose or floppy, you can reduce the number of increases you use at the ends of each round. Change colors before making the ninth round. After you do, make another five rounds using the same pattern: single crochet once into each stitch of the previous round. Continue adding increases at the ends of each round. Round nine gets nine increases. Round 10 gets 10 increases. Round 11 gets 11 increases. Round 12 gets 12 increases. Round 13 gets 13 increases. Note that if the rug begins to seem too loose or floppy, you can reduce the number of increases you use at the ends of each round. To change the color, cut the yarn you are currently working with, leaving a tail 3 inches (7.6 cm) long. Slip this end through the back of the next stitch, turn the rug around halfway, and begin single stitching your next round with the new color. Tie the next color onto the crochet hook using a slipknot. When you reach the tail from your previous color after working your way around, weave it into the new color as you make your next stitches. Change colors a third time after finishing round 13. Afterward, make another five rounds by single crocheting into each stitch of the previous rounds, including the increases. Continue adding increases at the ends of each round. Round 14 gets 14 increases. Round 15 gets 15 increases. Round 16 gets 16 increases. Round 17 gets 17 increases. Round 18 gets 18 increases. Note that if the rug begins to seem too loose or floppy, you can reduce the number of increases you use at the ends of each round. Switch your yarn color one final time. Make another six rounds using the same method of single crocheting once into each stitch of the previous rounds. Continue adding increases at the ends of each round. Round 19 gets 19 increases. Round 20 gets 20 increases. Round 21 gets 21 increases. Round 22 gets 22 increases. Round 23 gets 23 increases. Round 24 gets 24 increases. Note that if the rug begins to seem too loose or floppy, you can reduce the number of increases you use at the ends of each round. e last row. Even out the edge by making a slip stitch into each stitch of the final round. Cut the yarn so that a 3 inch (7.6 cm) tail hangs off the edge of the rug. With a loop still on your hook, grab this tail and pull it through the loop, tightening the loop over it. This will create a knot and tie off your project. Use a darning needle to weave the remaining end into the underside of the rug to hide it.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Know that Egyptian Arabic is spoken in Egypt and the surrounding areas. Learn a few basic greetings. Learn a few commonly used words. Memorize a few common sentences.

Answer:
Egypt is a major hub for Arabic speakers, but it does have its own unique dialect. As a result some words in Egyptian Arabic are different from those spoken in Modern or Classical Arabic. In order to be understood by someone in Egypt or a nearby country (such as Sudan), you should learn a few basic terms in Egyptian Arabic. Just like in English, there are many ways to say hello or to greet someone. Even if you don't end up speaking all of these, learning them will be helpful when you hear them spoken to you. Here are a few basic greetings in Egyptian Arabic: Assalaam aleykoom Or Salamo Aleko(peace be with you, used for starting a conversation) Salaam (peace, used for ending a conversation) Ezayek(female) Or Ezayak(male) (how are you?) Ahlan wa sahlan (welcome) Amla/amel eh (how are you?) There are several words and phrases that are used regularly in conversation, but may not be useful for forming a conversation or sentence. Here are some popular words and phrases you are likely to hear and use on a regular basis: Aywa (yes) La'a (no) Shokran (thank you) Affwan (you're welcome) Law Samaht (please) Kwayes (good) Aasif (sorry) Kol haga (everything) Feen (where) Leeh (why) You'll need to learn a few basic sentences that are either responses to questions (such as 'I am good') or that are important to know when confronted by a stranger (such as 'I don't speak Arabic). Here are a few important phrases: Ana mesh batkallem arabi (I don't speak Arabic) Ana batkallem arabi nos nos (I speak Arabic alright) El sa'aa kam (What is the time?) Ento men feen? Or Ento Mneen? (Where are you from-plural) Ana men Bretanya (I am from Britain) Ismak eh? (What is your name?) Esmee + your name (My name is + your name) Ana kwayes (I am good) Mesh fahem (I don't understand)