Article: Thread a yarn needle with the same yarn used to crochet the vest, then whip stitch the bottom half of the back panel to the bottom half of front panel A. Fold the panels so that the outer sides face each other. Match the stitches at the armhole edges of both panels. Cut a piece of yarn three to four times longer than the armhole edge of either panel. Whip stitch 16 stitches together from bottom to top. Trim the yarn and weave it into the inner stitches of the vest. This will create a shoulder seam and complete one armhole. Fold the back panel and front panel B together. Follow the same procedure used on the previous shoulder seam to complete the second. After completing the second shoulder seam, the vest is technically complete and ready to wear. If desired, however, you can decorate the vest with optional edging.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Sew together the back panel and front panel A. Stitch together the back panel and front panel B.
Article: There are many aspects to consider when making a swing that is both safe and long-lasting. If your yard doesn't have a tree with a branch that meets these standards, consider a different project. Oak trees are ideal, but any type of sturdy hardwood tree may be used. Evergreens and fruit trees should be avoided. Pick a healthy branch that is at least eight inches in diameter. Carefully inspect for any signs of disease or splitting. A sickly branch is more likely to break off and fall, potentially causing serious injury to anyone below. The placement of your swing should be at least three to five feet out from the tree's trunk. Press down on the branch at the point where you intend to hang your swing. If the branch bounces, choose a sturdier one. Do not pick a branch that is too high off the ground. Twenty feet should be the maximum, but if you are making a swing for a young child, consider a lower branch. Remember that the higher the swing's attachment point, the greater the height your child may fall from. You will need wood, rope, twine, three-inch deck screws, wood glue, fine grit sandpaper, two stainless steel quick link carabiners, and the right tools for the job. For tools, you will need a saw, a leveler, measuring tape, a sanding block, and a cordless drill. Buy enough 1.5-inch thick pressure treated wood for the job. You will need enough for three 7.25-inch wide pieces: one measuring 36 inches in length and two that are each 4 inches long. A two-by-eight board that is four feet long will be the easiest to work with. (If you are new to woodworking, keep in mind that the actual width and thickness of a two-by-eight are 7.25 inches and 1.5 inches respectively.) You will need a rope that is twice your planned swing's height (from the branch to the seat) plus an additional 12 feet. Use twisted polypropylene rope at least 3/8 inches in diameter. Keep in mind that nylon rope is typically too slippery for a good swing and a natural-fiber rope will eventually rot. Cut the rope into four pieces: two 10-foot lengths and two that are one foot longer than your swing's height. Throw one end of each rope up over the branch. Position the two ropes so that they are slightly over three feet apart. Tie a running bowline slip knot to one end of each rope. Next, thread the free end of each rope through its corresponding knot. Tug each free end to tighten the knot onto the branch. This type of knot is very secure but will also expand with the growing tree. If needed, you can attach one end of each rope to a rock with some twine before attempting to throw it. This extra step will make getting the ends up over the branches much easier. Remember that the base of your swing will be made up of three rectangles that will all be 7.25 inches wide. Mark two rectangles that are 4 inches for the supports and a third that is 36 inches for the main seat. Double-check your measurements before you begin sawing. To avoid the potential problem of the swing's seat cutting into the rider's thigh, sand down the front and rear top edges of your main seat piece. These will be two of the long edges on the same face of the board. You may also choose to sand down the other edges of the seat, but this is not necessary. Arrange the two supports each on opposite ends of the main board. If you only sanded down the top edges, make sure the support pieces are on side opposite from where you sanded. First, secure the pieces in place with wood glue. Next, reinforce the attachment using five deck screws for each support piece. Pattern the screws so that one is near each corner with the fifth directly in the center. Place two holes on each end through both the seat and its supports. Try to make each hole the same distance from the supports' edges and the center screw. The two holes on each side should create a line parallel to the seat's short side and perpendicular to its long side. Make sure the holes are wide enough to thread your rope through but not much wider. Use one rope for the two holes on one end and the second rope on the other. The two ropes should not cross. Position the ropes so that their ends are on the same side as the support pieces. Tie four stopper knots, one at each end of the ropes underneath the swing seat. Do not tie the knots too tight in case you need to adjust them later. There should now be two slings, one attached to each end of the seat. Unscrew your carabiners and hook one onto each sling. Screw the locking sleeves back on tight. Next, tie the ends of each rope hanging down to the quick links using a secure knot, such as a buntline hitch. Place a leveler on the seat to check for unevenness. If your seat isn't level, adjust the stopper knots accordingly. For example, if the seat is dipping forward and to the left, pull a little more rope through the bottom and move the knot up. Once the seat is level, tighten your knots. Your swing is now ready for use.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Find the perfect tree and branch. Gather your materials. Secure the long ropes to your branch. Cut your wood. Sand down sharp edges. Put the seat pieces together. Drill holes to attach your rope. Thread each end of your 10-foot ropes through the holes. Secure the ropes. Attach the slings to the long main ropes using two quick links. Level the seat and secure the stopper knots.
Article: Release and set the brake repeatedly in an attempt to help dislodge any ice from the brake system. Shovel snow or arrange other material along the sides of the vehicle. Doing this will create a path for air flow from front to rear of the vehicle, minimizing "losses" from under the vehicle's sides. The objective is to get the heat created by the engine and circulated to the radiator at the front of the vehicle, to the rear of the vehicle where most of the parking brake components are located (adjust for locations that differ from those offered in this article). Creating a "channel" under the vehicle by piling snow, etc. in the space under the sides of the vehicle accomplishes just that. If ice is preventing the release of your parking brake, warming up the car can help melt the ice and free the brake. Start the car and leave it running for at least 10 minutes before attempting to release the parking brake. Wait outside the vehicle while it is running. Once the engine has warmed, the heated air pulled through the radiator by the fan and heat created by the exhaust system will pass under the length of the vehicle. The more effort used to "seal" the open spaces under the sides of the vehicle, ensures that the warm air passes under its entire length and allows the thaw process to complete in the least amount of time.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Start the car first. Block as much of the open space between the ground and sides of the vehicle if the brake is still frozen. Allow the car to warm up.