Article: It is important that these not be built near your base. The walking distance is very time-wasting, the location is passive, and the possibility that you become stuck on the defensive becomes much greater. In the barracks, research Two-Handed Swordsmen and Champion. Continue to research Iron Casting, Blast Furnace, Chain Mail Armor, and Plate Mail Armor in the blacksmith. The upgrades may not seem like much, but when attacking in such large numbers, it makes a difference. Perfusion is what makes the Goths shine. Barracks units are created 50% faster. Along with Conscription, which makes all military units be created 33% faster, and their team bonus which allows units to be created 20% faster, the creation of Huskarls in the barracks becomes lightning-fast. Do make sure that you are able to keep up Huskarl production with houses. When a row of 10-12 barracks and fully upgraded barracks and castles produces Huskarls at such fast rates, a team of 6 villagers building houses one at a time becomes far too slow. You must make sure that the population cap does not hinder your spamming. Once you have destroyed one of your enemies, you should create more barracks against other enemies (if you aren't playing in a 1 vs 1). The other barracks should still be pumping out Huskarls until you reach the 210 population limit. Huskarls have strong attack and have a bonus against buildings. But along with that and its fast speed, Huskarls have substantial pierce armor, which makes them almost immune to arrows. They are more expensive to produce than Champions, but Champions do not have the +6 default pierce armor that Huskarls have. Because of their pierce armor, Huskarls are unusually well-equipped to bring down castles. Champions get the job done as well, but are more susceptible to the Castle's arrows. Usually, other infantry are slaughtered in large numbers. Champions can be spammed as well if you are getting low on resources. They have a slightly greater attack than Huskarls. Trebuchets, while almost required for other civilizations, have a lesser priority than the Huskarls. The main point of Trebuchets is to bring down difficult-to-reach or heavily fortified buildings. However, if your opponent is heavily fortified with walls, Trebuchets should be created. Other siege weapons can be created if you wish, but the advantage of the Huskarl's speed is negated when they are traveling together with the siege units. It is recommended that you set your army to staggered formation in order to reduce the splash damage by Mangonels and Scorpions. Set your army to aggressive (if it hasn't - aggressive is the default) and send your troops to attack castles, town centers, military buildings, monasteries, and most importantly, villagers. Armies in Age of Empires II can consist of a maximum of 40 troops. Remember, you must always constantly be on the offensive. During the Imperial Age, if for any moment that you are not attacking an enemy with your army, you are not taking advantage of the Goths' superior infantry!
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
If you haven't already, continue to build the row of 10-12 barracks near your enemy base. Research Conscription, Perfusion and Elite Huskarl in the castle. Spam Huskarls. Attack your enemies!
Article: Your worms can tolerate temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C) and as high as 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C). The lid will also keep birds and other natural predators out of the worm bed. Red wigglers dislike light, and the light will train them to stay in the dark bin. Two pounds (0.9 kg) of worms will eat about 1 pound (0.45 kg) of scraps daily. Doing this will control the size of the worm population. You can use your worms as fishing bait, if you wish.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Place the worm bed in a dark area that is between 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C to 27 C). Add about 2 pounds (0.9 kg) of red wiggler worms to the top of the worm bed. Place the fabric-lined lid on top of the box to block out the light and to keep the worms in their bed. Turn a light on near your worm bed. Feed the worms with scraps from your kitchen. Pick larger worms out of the worm bed every couple of months.