Article: A wide, shallow water bowl is best, to allow the gecko to drink and bathe without a significant risk of drowning. Keep this on the cooler side of the tank. Refill it every day and clean it whenever necessary, typically every other day. Use bottled water, tap water left out for 24 hours, or water treated with reptisafe purchased from a pet store. Live crickets are the most common food source for leopard gecko pets, but you may use live dubia roaches instead, purchased from pet stores or online. Other options are superworms (not the healthiest), hornworms and silkworms (not to be bought in large amounts, hornworms are great as treats), and locusts (which are another good staple diet). Never feed your Leo fruit or wild insects. Butter worms and wax worms are options, but due to their high-fat content, you may want to use them as an occasional supplement for variety, rather than the main meal. Wax worms can be addictive to geckos and overfeeding may lead to your gecko refusing other food. Because leopard geckos will rarely eat dead insects, you'll need a plastic container with holes punched in the lid in order to keep the insects alive. Dead insects also provide no stimulation and are far less nutritious. You can buy insects as needed from pet stores, or maintain a larger container with enough insects to breed. If using crickets, put egg cartons in the container. To make safe and appealing food, the insects should be slightly smaller than the space between the gecko's eyes. If keeping mealworms short-term, store them in the refrigerator. If you are breeding them, keep them at room temperature so some of them morph into beetles. Another excellent way to add nutrients to the gecko's diet is to "gut load" the insects. Use a special formula for this purpose, or simply provide your container of insects with fruit and/or vegetables for 1224 hours before feeding them to the gecko. Carrot, greens, potato, and apple works well. Avoid citrus, nightshade, banana, kale, iceberg lettuce, spinach, oats, broccoli, and watermelon. A very important thing is to never mix vitamin and calcium just to make it easier for you as this can actually kill your gecko. If you decide to try this, do this in addition to using the dusting powder described above, not as a replacement. Leopard geckos under six months old need daily feeding, Leos 6-12 months old need to be fed every other day, and Leos over a year old can be fed every 3-4 days. Generally speaking, each gecko should be fed enough food to eat in 1015 minutes, or roughly 7-10 crickets. Remove all insects from the cage after 1520 minutes, since they may attack and damage the leopard gecko's skin or eat the gecko's feces. If your gecko is a slow eater, or appears obese, check the section on health problems for advice. Remove feces, dead insects, and other debris from your leopard gecko's tank daily, to reduce the risk of disease and attracting harmful insects. About once a week, wash the entire enclosure with warm water and safe reptile disinfectant, rinsing the disinfectant away before the leopard gecko is returned to its tank. Change the substrate when it begins to have a noticeable odor, usually once a month. Dry Eco earth only needs to be changed every six months. Bioactive substrate never needs to be cleaned or changed. If you are using tiles or a similar, non-disposable substrate, just remove them from the tank temporarily and clean the floor beneath then when you notice a smell.

What is a summary?
Provide a shallow water dish. Keep a separate container of live insects. Add more nutrients to the insects. Feed the gecko 2 - 3 times a week. Clean the tank regularly.