Reach into the sink from above and run the blade of a utility knife through the bead of caulk, all the way around the rim of the sink. Work carefully so you don't scratch the lip of the opening in the countertop. This caulk helps to hold the undermount sink in place but is primarily there to prevent water from getting between the sink rim and the underside of the counter. Although it will be a tight fit in the sink cabinet, this is safer and easier with a second set of hands helping you. While the second person holds the bottom of the sink, remove the several clips (often 4-6) that pin the sink rim against the underside of the counter. They will either be screwed or epoxied into place. If they're attached with screws, simply use a screwdriver to remove them. If they are stuck in place with epoxy, use a putty knife to scrape, pry, and wedge the clips apart from the underside of the counter. Once you remove the clips, the sink will be free to fall, so make sure it's being held up by someone! Now that the caulk and the clips have been removed, simply guide the sink downward and out of the cabinet. If you are reusing the existing faucet and drain, remove them now. But it's more likely that you'll want to install new ones with your new sink. , but not the drain, in the new sink. Unlike with a top-mount sink, don't install the drain before installing an undermount sink. But it's easier to install the new faucet now instead of having to work from inside the sink cabinet. Installing a faucet is within the skill set of most DIYers, but the process differs based on the type and model of faucet. Closely follow the instructions that come with the new faucet. Use a silicone caulk designed for bathroom applications. Make sure the bead is continuous around the entire rim of the sink. Like the stuff you removed from the old sink, this caulk is mostly there for waterproofing, but also helps hold the sink in place. Cut a section of 2in 4in (5.1cm 10.2cm) lumber so it's at least a few inches/centimeters longer than the width of the opening for the sink in the countertop. Lay this piece of wood across the opening. Then, while a second person lifts the new sink up into place from beneath, feed the bar clamp up through the drain opening of the sink so that one of its clamps holds up the sink from below. Secure the other clamp to the piece of wood and tighten it. Make sure the clamp is tight enough to make the some of the silicone caulk squeeze out between the rim of the sink and the underside of the counter. Wipe away this excess caulk with a damp rag. Your new undermount sink will come with support clips to place around the underside of the sink where it meets the underside of the counter. In some cases, these clips may attach with screws. If so, drill pilot holes and use a screwdriver to secure the clips in place. Otherwise, use the brand or type of epoxy recommended by the sink manufacturer. In most cases, the clips are adhered in place with a 2-part epoxy that hardens in about 10 minutes after being combined. Follow the product instructions carefully and apply the proper amount to each clip. Then press them into place as per the installation instructions for your sink. Even though the epoxy should be fully set in 10 minutes, it's important to give the silicone adhesive time to cure fully. Leave the piece of lumber and bar clamp in place for a day before removing them. After that, you can put the drain in place and continue with the installation. Like faucets, drain installations vary by type and brand, but the process is DIY-friendly if you follow the instructions carefully. You could rely on the epoxy to hold everything in place after 10 minutes and not wait the full 24 hours before proceeding, but this is not recommended. Be patient!

Summary: Cut through the caulk that connects the sink to the underside of the counter. Remove the holding clips under the sink while supporting it from below. Lower the sink down and out of the cabinet. Install the faucet Apply a bead of silicone caulk around the entire top rim of the sink. Secure the sink in position with a piece of lumber and a bar clamp. Secure the included clips in place with screws or epoxy. Wait 24 hours, then install the drain.

Plates of the size used as covers for microscope slides would be ideal. Once the plates are cleaned, handle them only by the edges. Do this by touching the surfaces with the leads from a multimeter. Once you have established which side of each plate is the conductive side, place them side by side, one plate conductive side up and the other conductive side down. This will hold the plates in place for the next step. Place the tape along either of the long side of the plates to overlap 1 millimeter (1/25 inch) of the edges. Place tape over the outer 4 to 5 millimeters (1/5 inch) of the conductive side up plate. Put 2 drops on the conductive side up plate, then spread it evenly over the plate surface. Allow the titanium dioxide to cover the conductive-side-down plate. Before applying the titanium dioxide solution, you may first want to coat the plates with tin oxide. Now you'll treat the 2 plates differently. Place the conductive-side-up plate on an electric hot plate overnight to bake the titanium dioxide onto the plate. Clean the titanium dioxide off the conductive-side-down plate and place it where it won't collect dirt. The dye can be made from raspberry, blackberry or pomegranate juice or by brewing a tea from red hibiscus petals. Do this while the titanium dioxide-coated plate is soaking. Mark the side that doesn't conduct with a plus sign (+). You can do this by going over the conductive side with a pencil or by applying a graphite lubricant. Cover the entire surface. Rinse it twice, first with de-ionized water and then with alcohol. Blot dry after rinsing with a clean tissue.

Summary: Obtain 2 equal-sized glass plates. Clean both surfaces of the plates with alcohol. Test the plate faces for conductivity. Apply transparent tape to the plates. Apply a solution of titanium dioxide to the plates. Remove the tape and separate the plates. Prepare a shallow dish filled with dye. Soak the titanium-dioxide-coated plate, coated side down, in the dye for 10 minutes. Clean the other plate with alcohol. Retest the cleaned plate to find its conductive side. Apply a thin carbon coating to the conductive side of the cleaned plate. Take the titanium-dioxide-coated plate out of the dye.

Unlike English style horses, trained Western horses work without much contact. They have bits with longer shanks which work by placing pressure on the polls, rather than their mouths. You can therefore steer with light touches from the reins with a single hand. Hold the reins with your non-dominant hand so that you can use your dominant hand for other tasks, such as tying cattle or lassoing highway robbers. Neck reining guides your horse to move in the direction you want using a gentle touch instead of a pulling motion. Think of the motion as a gentle push (in the opposite direction) instead of a pull (in the same direction). This means that if you want the horse to turn left, gently touch the right rein to the horse's neck. If you want the horse to turn right, gently touch the left rein to the horse's neck. One helpful hint to do neck reining correctly is that you should steer your horse in the direction of the inside rein. If the left rein is inside, the horse will turn left. If the right rein is inside, the horse will turn right. The Western-trained horse is always trained to move away from the direction of the rein touch. Western trained horses interpret even the subtlest of signals from a rider. If you look to your left and shift your hips accordingly, a trained Western horse will follow suit and turn left. English horses are steered much more actively with their reins, but if you want to ride Western, you will have to rely more on how you shift your weight and carry your body. Make sure that you do not lean your body, however. You want to remain upright and centered at all times. Use gentle shifts in your body weight to guide the horse.
Summary: Hold the reins in your non-dominant hand. Use neck reining to steer. Give steering signals with your hips and seat.