Once you have your basket assembled, you're ready to start wrapping. Items can jut out a bit, but not too much. And don't worry about your basket's shape; any shape and size basket will work. Here's what you'll need: Arranged basket Printed cellophane, shrink wrap, or wrapping paper (triple the amount of the size of the basket) Clear tape Scissors Twist tie, pipe cleaner, anything to cinch wrap together Bow Packing tape (optional). Spread it out on an even surface and place the basket in the middle on all sides. If the basket is absolutely huge, you may need another piece of cellophane, under the basket horizontally. Again, on all sides. That means it needs to be centered on the right and left and top and bottom. You'll probably only have a few inches on the sides, and that's fine. But as for the front and back of the basket, center it on your sheet so there's 10-12" (30 cm, or a bit under) on either side. This will cover the front and back of your basket and leave plenty of room at the top for some pretty frills. When you've found these measurements, cut your cellophane (or shrink wrap, etc.) to size. Again, if your basket is of titanic proportions, cut another sheet of similar size to cover the sides. Make sure all four sides are even. Line up the edges to be sure, and readjust as necessary.
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One-sentence summary -- Grab everything you need. Roll the cellophane onto the table and place the basket in the middle. Center the basket so there's about one foot (30 cm)of cellophane in the front and back of the basket.

Look for the gaps at either end of the canvas. Slide one of the metal support rails into one of these gaps, then slide the other metal support rail into the other gap. For the time being, the long flat sides of the support rails should rest on top of the metal frame of the cot. Snap one of supporting end rails onto the knobs of both side rails. There should be a plastic or metal knob at both ends of each side rail. There should also be two holes along one side of each support rail. Slide the support rail down past the end of the side rails. Line up the holes of the support rail so that they are directly in front of the knobs on both side rails. Firmly push the support rail toward the side rails until the holds snap on over the knobs. If done properly, the support rail should now be firmly fixed onto the side rails and should not wiggle or otherwise move around. Move to the second support rail and snap one of the holes into the knob of the corresponding side rail. You should be able to attach one side of the support rail without much difficulty, but you'll probably notice more resistance at this point than the amount you dealt with when attaching the first support rail. Pull the loose end of the second support rail over the side rail until it sits just beyond the end of the rail. The procedure used to secure the other three corners probably won't work for the fourth and final corner. Even if you stretched the canvas out before attaching the support rails, it will usually be too stiff at this point, and that stiffness will prevent you from lifting and locking the end of the support rail onto the side rail knob. Line up the support rail with the side rail as closely as possibly during this step. If you cannot secure it using brute strength alone, move onto the next step. Use a long metal bar to lift the loose end of the second support rail onto the final side rail knob. Once the hole and knob are aligned, snap the fitting together. An over-sized screwdriver, hammer handle, or pry bar should work for this. Insert the levering bar into the gap between the loose end of the support bar and side rail. The fabric should be notched in the corner, allowing you to easily pass the levering bar through it. Continue sliding the levering bar through this gap until it reaches the point at which the leg and side rail meet. Pull the long end of the lever toward you with one hand while carefully maneuvering the loose end of the support rail. The levering bar should cause the support rail to lift outward, toward you and away from the cot, making it easier for you to slide the end of the support rail into place. Once the support rail end is properly positioned, you should be able to snap it on as usual. If you do not have a levering bar, you can tip the cot over and use your foot to help lever the final corner into place. After attaching the first end bar and one side of the second end bar, stand the cot on the second, partially unattached support rail. Wedge your foot in between the loose end of the support rail and the corresponding side rail. Put your weight on that foot, holding the support rail down in the process. Carefully tip the top of the cot back, thereby lifting the loose end of the side rail over the loose end of the second support rail. Guide the two ends toward each other until they snap together. If there is another person nearby, you may need to ask that person to help guide the corner fittings together and snap them into place as you hold the cot. The cot should be fully assembled at this point. Check it by carefully lying down over the length of the canvas. The canvas should remain taut when you lie down on it and none of the support rails should break free or wiggle around. If any of the support fittings break free, you will need to lever it back into place. Once the entire cot feels secure, it should be safe to use.
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One-sentence summary -- Insert the end rails. Attach the first support rail. Snap one end of the the second supporting end rail into place. Position the final corner. Lever the final corner into place. Alternatively, lever the final end into place using your foot. Check the cot.

Every gym has a chin-up bar, which is a horizontal bar positioned above shoulder height. If you aren't a member of a gym, you can buy a chin-up bar and install it in your house. Place it in a tall doorway and make sure it's positioned above your shoulders.
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One-sentence summary -- Locate a chin-up bar.

Some orange shades can overwhelm pale skin. A lipstick that is equal parts red and orange can prevent that from happening. Experiment with true tangerine shades, as well these can also complement fair skin. Peach, coral and persimmon shades tend to be muted, making them easier to wear than some of the brighter orange shades. They can warm up a light complexion without dominating or overpowering the overall look. The pink undertones of these shades help make them accessible. Olive skin has a naturally tanned appearance that combines really well with true orange, as well as bold shades like electric orange. Look for spicy shades like fiery tangerine and chili pepper for a vibrant pop of color that complements your skin tone perfectly. Bold pops of color look great when paired with dark skin tones. Try a bright, true orange in a matte formula for a punch of high-intensity color. If true orange feels too bright, opt for a shade that has deep reddish undertones, like blood orange. These shades are fiery and vibrant, while also being slightly easier to wear than true oranges. If you're going to wear an intense color, like orange, then you might as well go all out and wear it boldly. The bright, bold color will likely get the attention of others, and also stay on for longer than sheer glosses will.
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One-sentence summary --
Choose an orange-red shade if you have very fair skin. Go with a peachy coral shade if you have light skin. Wear vibrant shades if you have a medium/olive skin tone. Choose true orange or blood orange if you have a dark skin tone. Pick a matte lip product for a bold look.