Put the turkey into the sink or tub. This method is often necessary if you don't have a container large enough to contain and submerge the turkey. In this case, you will start by putting the turkey breast up, so the water will run into the breast. Make sure that your water is cold! Again, it will need to be under 40 degrees, in order to avoid bacterial growth. Make sure that the water is running over and cascading onto your turkey. You don't want to waste water! Your turkey may develop a small pool of water around it. That is fine. Just make sure that the water can drain as new water runs over the turkey. Every five or so minutes, try to turn or rotate the turkey. Lay it on its breast, turn it sideways, or rotate it. Make sure that it stays under the water. You'll want to ensure that the turkey is under a slow, steady stream of water. You'll need to keep doing this until your turkey thaws. There isn't a specific formula as there are for some other methods, so you'll need to use your judgment. The smaller the turkey and the better the water flow, the faster it will thaw. You can poke the thick, meaty parts of the turkey like the breast and thighs to see if they feel thawed. If your turkey felt soft enough, you will still want to test it further. The easiest way to do this is by examining the chest cavity and removing the giblet bag. If the chest cavity still has ice crystals, or if the giblet bag is still frozen in, you need extra time.

Summary: Place your turkey. Turn on the water. Position the turkey under the water. Move the turkey around. Repeat as necessary. Test the turkey.

You should cover the table in a towel in case there is any spillage. Let the puppy lie down on all fours so that it is lying on its belly with its front legs outstretched and its back legs tucked up under it. Put a drop of the formula on the inside of your wrist to make sure that it is lukewarm and not too hot. Hold the puppy's head firmly in between your index finger and thumb so that your fingers are located at the corners of the puppy's mouth. Tip the head slightly upward so that you can see what you are doing. Hold the end of the tube on the puppy's tongue and let it taste a drop of the milk. Doing this will help coat the esophagus and get her ready to eat. You will not want to go too slowly or else the pup may gag. Guide the tube over the tongue and down into the back of the throat. You will know you are on the right track when the puppy starts swallowing the tube. If it coughs or gags, remove the tube and try again. Stop feeding the tube downward once the marked part of the tube reaches the pup's mouth. Check to make sure that the pup is not coughing, crying or gagging. If she is not, secure the tube by placing it between your index and middle fingers. Put a small amount of water in the tube to check if your puppy coughs or gags. If it's fine, attach the food syringe to the tube. If your puppy coughs, take out the tube and start over since the food could go into the puppy's lungs. After securing the feeding tube, depress the plunger of the syringe and feed the puppy 1 cc or ml at a time. To know when to let the puppy rest between cc's, count to 3 seconds in your head while slowly depressing the plunger. After the 3 seconds, check to see if there is any milk coming out of the puppy's nose. If there is, withdraw the tube as this means that the puppy is choking. After you have checked, depress the syringe for 3 more seconds. Hold the syringe perpendicular to the puppy for the most efficient feeding method. Once all of the milk has been fed to the puppy, slowly remove the tube. To do this, gently pull it out while still holding the puppy's head. Once the tube has been removed, place your pinky in the puppy's mouth and let it suck on your finger for 5 to 10 seconds. Doing this ensures that the puppy will not throw up. If possible, bring the puppy to its mother. Its mother will lick the puppy's anus, which will help the puppy to defecate. If the puppy is an orphan newborn, use a wet washcloth or cotton ball to simulate the mother's licking. Doing this is very important, as defecating will help the puppy remove any waste dammed up in its intestines. To do this, lift the puppy and stroke its belly. If it is very firm, it has gas or bloating. If this is the case, you will need to burp the puppy. To do this, lift the puppy by placing your palm under her belly and lifting up. Stroke its back and rump to help it burp. After the 5 days are up, feed the puppy every 3 hours.

Summary: Place the puppy on a table. Grasp the puppy's head with your hand. Insert the catheter slowly but efficiently. Feed the tube into the puppy's mouth. Feed the puppy. Remove the tube. Help the puppy to defecate. Check the puppy for gas or bloating. Repeat this feeding process every 2 hours for the first 5 days.

Most snails prefer warmth and humidity - about 25-30 degrees C (or 77-86 degrees F) and 80-95% humidity. Research the breed of snail you are planning to raise to determine whether an extensive system is an option for you or not. Also consider wind as a factor in snail growth. Wind causes snails to dry out, so you should situate your snailery in a sheltered location if possible. Fine chicken wire mesh works well, because snails don't like to crawl on it. Concrete blocks and bricks are also a good option. Dig the fence in at least 20 cm to prevent snails from burrowing under and escaping. It only needs to be a few inches tall if there's no roof. If there is a roof, you'll need to build the pen at least as tall as the potential height of the largest plants in the enclosure. A roof can offer shade and protection from the elements, but it's an expensive option. If you have constructed your snailery out of a material that snails can climb, a roof is necessary to keep them in. Fine wire mesh is a good option for a roof. You can cover it with thin cloth for added protection. If you do add a roof, you will need a way to access your snails. If you are using wire mesh, attach the roof with twists of wire so that you can loosen them and get into the pen whenever you need to. Be sure that the soil is very loose. Snails lay their eggs in the soil, so it's important for them to be able to dig into it easily. Avoid very sandy soil (it doesn't hold water well) heavy, clay-like soil highly acidic soil (it can damage their shells) Shrubs and small trees will offer food and shelter. Plants that work particularly well are sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and leafy vegetables. You might also consider planting small trees outside of the enclosure as well. This will help protect them from wind, sun, and rain. Let it collect rainwater, since tap water often contains chemicals such as chlorine, which isn't good for snails. Use something shallow (like a jar lid) so that your snails don't topple in and drown. If the water starts to look particularly dirty or full of refuse, replace it.
Summary: Determine whether your climate is suitable for raising snails outdoors. Fence in an area based on how many snails you are planning to house. Decide whether you want a roof or not. Fill the enclosure with appropriate soil. Plant vegetation in the pen. Add a small container for water.