In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Banks don't have to accept checks signed over to someone else (called "third-party checks"), and many banks refuse them. Before you sign your check over to someone else, call the bank where the person is going to take the check and make sure they accept checks endorsed this way. Talk to the person you're going to sign the check over to and find out what bank or check cashing service they plan to use to cash or deposit the check. Generally, the person will have better luck getting a third-party check accepted if they go to a bank where they have an account and present the check for deposit. You may also have to go with them to validate your signature. Using a pen with blue or black ink, clearly print the words at the very top of the endorsement area. Make sure you leave enough room for both you and the other person to sign in the endorsement area. When you do this, you're effectively turning your check into a brand new check for another person. They person you sign your check over to will have to sign it as well. Either next to or below the words "Pay to the Order of," carefully print the name of the person you want to sign your check over to. The name should be legible and written in blue or black ink. Make sure you've spelled their name correctly, and that it matches their name as it appears on their government-issued photo ID or on their bank account. Since you were the check's original payee, you still have to sign it. As with restrictive endorsements, endorse underneath your transfer instructions to give those instructions legal effect. Make sure you leave enough room for the other person to sign the check after you. If possible, leave room for any restrictive endorsements or other information they may want to add. At this point, the processing of the check becomes the responsibility of the person you've signed it over to. However, some banks are cautious about third-party checks and may want to get confirmation from you before they accept the check. Some banks may be willing to call you and get your confirmation that you intended to transfer the check to the other person. You may also have to go to the bank with the person, especially if the check is for a large amount.
Summary: Find out the bank's policy on third-party checks. Write "Pay to the Order of" on the top endorsement line. Print the name of the person you want to have the check. Sign the check underneath the printed name. Give the person the check.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Don't press hard, because you'll spread the urine further into the couch. As you would with any spilled liquid, just press the cloth into the wet spot to absorb extra liquid. If you have a wet/dry vacuum handy, that would also work well on a fresh pee stain. Put 2-3 drops of dish soap, 3 tablespoons (44.4ml) (42 grams) of baking soda, and 1.25c (300mL) of 3% hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle. Replace the cap and shake the bottle to mix up the ingredients. Hydrogen peroxide disinfects the fabric and breaks down the acid in the pee, making the stain easier to remove. You can substitute vinegar if you don't have any hydrogen peroxide. Be sure to fully saturate all parts of the stain. Don't blot it up right awaygive it some time to work! If your couch is made of microfiber, opt for an enzyme cleaner instead. Gently blot the stain with a damp rag to rinse the soap out, then blot it with a clean, dry cloth. It should only take a few hours for the spot to dry, and your couch will be good as new.
Summary: Pat the stain with a cloth to soak up excess pee. Mix dish soap, baking soda, and hydrogen peroxide together. Spray the solution on the couch and let it sit for an hour. Rinse away the detergent residue with a damp cloth.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: For this method, we'll start with a fully-assembled tank, minus the fish, just like in the method above. However, this time, we won't add the fish until the entire cycle is completed. Instead, we'll add biological waste manually as we monitor the water level and wait for the cycle to complete. This method requires a lot of patience, as it requires you to wait for the organic material you add to your tank to decay and start producing toxic waste products. However, it's often considered a more "humane" option as it doesn't expose fish to ammonia and nitrites like the method above does. To begin, drop just a few flakes of fish food into your tank about as much as you'd use to feed your fish will do. Now, simply wait. Over the next few days, the flakes will begin to decay and release waste products (including ammonia) into the water. Use a test kit (or bring a water sample to your local pet store) to test your water for ammonia levels. You want to have a level of at least three parts per million (ppm). If you don't have enough ammonia in your water, add more flakes and wait for them to decay before testing again. Continue to test your water every other day for ammonia levels. As beneficial bacteria begins to grow in your aquarium, it will start to consume the ammonia, reducing the ammonia levels. Replenish them by adding fish flakes whenever the ammonia level falls below three ppm. As the bacteria start consuming ammonia, they'll begin to produce nitrites, the intermediate type of chemical in the nitrate cycle (which is less toxic than ammonia but still harmful to fish). Start testing for nitrites after a week or so again, you can use a commercial test kit or take water samples to a pet shop to do this. Once you detect nitrites, you'll know the cycle has started. At this point, you'll continue adding ammonia as you have before. As you feed the bacteria in the tank ammonia, the nitrite levels will continue to rise. Eventually, however, enough beneficial bacteria will grow to convert the nitrites into nitrates, the final type of chemical in the nitrate cycle (and one that isn't harmful to fish.) When this happens, you'll know the cycle is nearing completion. You can detect this final phase of the cycle by either testing for nitrites (in which case you're looking for a sudden drop), nitrates (in which case you're looking for a sudden spike from a base level of zero), or both. After about six to eight weeks, the ammonia and nitrite levels should decrease to a level that's so low you can no longer detect them, while nitrate levels should plateau. At this point, it's safe to add your fish. However, as in the method above, you'll want to add your fish gradually. Don't add more than a few small fish at a time and wait at least a week or two before introducing your next batch of fish. Consider cleaning the substrate with a siphon hose before adding fish, particularly if you had to add a lot of food. Decaying food or plant matter can become a ticking time bomb. If it gets trapped in the gravel, the ammonia won't enter the water, but if something upsets it, it could release a fair amount of ammonia rather quickly.
Summary:
Assemble and prepare your tank. Add a sprinkling of fish flakes. Test your water for ammonia in a few days. Try to keep the ammonia level at about three ppm. Start testing for nitrites, after a week. Wait for a sudden drop in nitrites and a rise in nitrates. Add fish gradually when ammonia and nitrite levels are near zero.