Q: Lift the sofa onto its front side so its back faces straight up toward the ceiling. Look under the sofa to see if it has base bars. If they're present, you should see two or three bars screwed or bolted from one end of the sofa's base to the other. Check the heads of the screws or bolts that secure the base bars. Use a drill with the appropriate bit to unfasten each screw or bolt from the base bars. You'll probably need Robertson drive bits, as base bars are often secured with square Robertson screws. It's best to get someone to help you remove a sofa's base bars, especially when removing the final bar. When you detach the last bar, the individual seats and console will come apart freely. Having someone stabilize the sofa will help keep its components from rolling away, getting damaged, or damaging nearby objects.
A: Turn the sofa over to locate the base bars. Unfasten the base bars' bolts. Have a helper hold the sofa as you remove the last bar.

Q: Cut out the neckband from the a basic white or other light colored tee shirt with sharp scissors. You should also trim the tee, so it ends at the wearer's waist. If you want the shirt to stand out, use gem glue to add decorative craft gems to the neckline and bottom hem of the tee. A sari is a type of traditional, draping cloth worn by Indian women, but you can create your own with a piece of fabric. Inexpensive acetate that's usually used for lining garments works well to make your own sari. For a child's costume, cut the fabric so it's 30-inches wide and and 3-yards long. For adults, go with fabric that's 45 inches wide and 6 yards long. Choose a bold color for your fabric. Jewel tones, such as emerald, ruby, or sapphire, are attractive shade options for a sari. To make it easier to wrap the sari, wear your cropped top with a pair of leggings or stretchy bike shorts in a neutral color. Take one end of the fabric and tuck it into the back of your leggings. Create a pleat in the fabric, and tuck the next section into the waistband, repeating the action all the way around your waist. Drape the excess fabric over your shoulder, folding from the back to the front. When you tuck the fabric into your waistband, the hem should cover your feet but rest above the floor. Aim for approximately 7 to 10 pleats when you're tucking in the fabric. The pleats should fall straight and point to your left. When you drape the remaining length of fabric over you, it should be somewhere between knee-length and floor-length. If you're worried about your sari coming loose, secure it in place with pins. Compliment your sari with gold or silver bangle bracelets, gold or silver hoop earrings, and flat sandals.
A: Create a shirt to wear under the sari. Find a piece of fabric for the sari. Wrap the sari.

Q: Set each pot down on a separate burner. Turn the heat up to medium or medium-high, then wait for the water to come to a boil. This may take a few minutes. Wait for both pots to come to a boil before moving on to the next step. Again, you want this to happen simultaneously for both pots. Turn the knobs for both burners to low, then wait for the water to reduce to a simmer. Set the timer for anywhere between 1.5 and 2.5 hours. The longer you let the water simmer, the brighter the color will be. You can use a regular spoon to do this, but a slotted spoon would work even better. Discard the beets or save them for a recipe. Save the red dye leftover from the beets. Don't dump this out. Be sure to pour the dye slowly so that it doesn't splash. Next, stir the pot to ensure that everything is submerged; you may have to poke the folds of fabric to get them to stay down. You won't be able to fill the fabric pot all the way. This is because some of the beet water evaporated while you cooked it. There is no need to soak it for longer than that. Make sure that the fabric is fully submerged, however, or it may not dye evenly. If you need to, weigh the fabric down with a plate, bowl, or jar. Take the pot off the stove for this. Don't let the dye bath keep simmering for these 12 to 24 hours.
A: Bring both pots to a boil on the stove. Reduce the heat to low, then let both pots simmer for 1.5 to 2.5 hours. Remove the beets from the dye pot. Pour the dye into the fabric pot, then stir the dye. Soak the fabric off-heat in the dye for 12 to 24 hours.

Q: In some cases, unless the circuit has been installed by a licensed contractor and then approved by a local building/electrical inspector, the manufacturer won't recognize the warranty. The power that runs the hot tub must be given a dedicated circuit because of its electrical demands. No other appliances or electrical demands should share the power. Again, if there is any doubt about how to wire the circuit responsible for the hot tub, use a licensed electrician. Otherwise, here is some important information about wiring that you should know: The size of the wire you use must be approved by the National Electrical Code (NEC) and/or local codes. The size of the wire you use should be based on the length of run from the breaker box to the hot tub. The maximum current draw should also play a role in determining wire size. Copper wire is recommended with THHN (thermoplastic nylon) insulation. In fact, all wiring should be copper; aluminum wire should be avoided. If using wire larger than #6 (10mm2), be sure to put a junction box close the hot tub. Then, reduce the wire to short lengths of #6 (10mm2) in between the junction box and the hot tub. When it comes down to it, saving a few hundred extra bucks isn't worth the potential disaster of voiding the warranty or causing serious bodily harm or death. Please see a professional if you no experience wiring electrical circuits.
A:
Know that some warranties will be voided if the electrical circuit isn't installed by an electrical contractor. If you decide to do the wiring yourself, keep the power on a single dedicated circuit. If wiring on your own, make sure your specs are right. If you have any doubts, use the services of a professional.