Article: You will need a wooden headboard and footboard. If they are attached, detach them. This project works best if there is either a flat skirt on the footboard or two-part skirt with an even edge at the top. Once you have the frame and the boards are detached, sand the wood to remove old paint or varnish, if you want to. Measure a vertical center line on the footboard and mark it with a pencil or other marking tool. Use a jigsaw or circular saw to cut the footboard along the center line. The two pieces will become the sides of the bench, while the headboard will be the back of the bench. Along the edges you just cut, drill evenly space holes for dowels. Find dowels that are an appropriate size and then use the drill bit for that size to drill the holes. Measure the height from the floor to the holes that you cut, as well as the distance between the holes, and then make identical holes in the same location on the front of the headboard posts. The number of holes you drill and where you drill them will depend on the shape and style of the bed. If your bed is of a non-standard shape, you may have to alter how you attach the footboards to the headboard. It may be necessary to attach them at the sides, rather than at the front of the posts. Insert the dowels, applying wood glue in both holes, and attach the footboards to the headboard. It should now be starting to look like a bench! Lay the bench on its back and attach 1x6s (cut to the appropriate length) to the footboards using L brackets and wood screws. Attach these at whatever height works for you and that the footboards allow. Use however many boards are needed to create a wide enough seat. Add a 1x3 board to the bottom of the front seat-board to make a skirt, if you want to. Caulk all the joints and gaps so that the connections are more sturdy. Upright the bench when necessary during this process. Paint the bench (with outdoor paint if you intend to put it outside), if you want to. You may also wish to add seat cushions or upholster the bench.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Buy and prepare an old bed frame. Measure and mark the center line on the footboard. Cut the footboard. Create the attachment points on the footboard. Attach the footboards to the headboard. Attach the seat. Caulk all joints. Add finishing touches.
Article: Use a rag to rub some warm water and isopropyl alcohol over the area around the loose part of the sole. If you can do so without pulling it off further, clean inside where the sole has become loose as well. Use a toothpick or cotton swab to apply a layer of adhesive inside where the sole has come apart from the shoe. Make the layer fairly thick, as it's better to put in too much and have it overflow than to not have enough. Some adhesives need to cure for a few minutes after being applied and before the sole is put in place. Check the instructions on your adhesive product. Being careful not to get any adhesive on your hands, press the sole and the shoe together tightly. Don't worry if some adhesive spills out -- this can be sanded off later. The sole should be pressed tightly against the shoe for the entire time it dries. Secure it using rubber bands or duct tape, or set weights on top of the shoe in the area where the glue is drying. Place the shoe somewhere out of the way, where it can stay cool and dry while it sets. Wait at least a full day before wearing the shoe. If any of the shoe sole adhesive spilled out when you pressed the sole down, sand it off using 120-grit sandpaper. Make sure the adhesive has dried out completely before sanding it.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Clean the shoe and sole with water and alcohol. Apply shoe sole adhesive between the shoe and the sole. Press the sole against the bottom of the shoe. Keep the sole in place with rubber bands, duct tape, or weights. Let the shoe sit for 24 hours. Sand off any dried overflow glue.
Article: Start by spraying the brick surface with a hosewater is typically effective at removing most dirt and dust from bricks. For tougher dirt and salt deposits, use a stiff-bristled brush dipped in a soap water mixture. If this isn't doing the trick, mix 12 cup (120mL) of trisodium phosphate into 1 gallon (3.8L) of water to create a cleaning solution and dip your brush into it before scrubbing the brick. Apply a solution of 1 part bleach and 3 parts water to mildew and let it sit for 30 minutes. Afterward, scrub the surface with a wire brush. Consider renting a 1500 PSI pressure washer from a home improvement store for larger areas of brick. Never clean brick with acid cleaning solutions or you might ruin the paint job. Place unfolded pieces of newspaper over your doors and windows and tape them to the perimeter with painters tape. For larger areas, use multiple pieces of newspaper. Be sure to cover their entire surface and fasten the newspaper firmly with painter's tape. Protect any other areas that you do not want to paintsuch as gas meterswith painter's tape or newspaper fastened with painter's tape. using acrylic caulk. Insert a scraper into the cracks and lever them to open them wider. After, brush out the dust with a straw cleaning brush. Cut your caulking tube at a 45-degree angle, taking care to keep the hole size small no further down than 14 inch (0.64cm). Insert the tube into your caulking gun, hold the release trigger, and pull the steel rod back as far as you can. Now, press the trigger and move the tip steadily through the crack until it's filled. Allow the caulk to dry for about 5 hours. Press the caulk flat into the cracks with a putty knife to even it with the wall. Be sure to move the gun in steady motions. If you move too fast, the caulk will be thin and uneven, but if you move too slow it will be clumpy and difficult to work with. Dip a paint roller into the primer 2 to 3 times. Start around 1 foot (0.30m) from the bottom of the wall and about 6 inches (15cm) from the corner. Aim your roll upwards at a small angle while applying light pressure. Once you reach 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6cm) from the top of the wall, roll up and down while moving back to the corner. Continue moving from the floor to the top and always move the width of the roller so each stroke overlaps. Continue rolling until all of the bricks are covered. Put a few extra coats of primer on the areas that were affected by efflorescence. Wait for the primer to drythe recommended drying time should be listed on the packagebefore moving on to the next step.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Clean the bricks thoroughly with a cleaning mixture. Cover the windows and doors with newspaper. Repair wall cracks Apply latex primer to the surface of the bricks.