Once you are bitten by a mosquito that is carrying dengue fever, the average time for symptoms to begin is four to seven days. While the average incubation period is from of four to seven days, you may experience symptoms as early as three days or as late as two weeks after being bitten. A high fever is the first symptom to appear. Fevers with dengue fever are high, ranging from 102F to 105F (38.9C to 40.6C). The high fever lasts for two to seven days, returns to normal or even a little below normal, then can rebound. You may develop a high fever again that can last for several more days. The initial symptoms that develop after the fever begins are generally non-specific, and are described as flu-like in nature. Common symptoms that occur after the fever begins include severe frontal headache, pain behind the eyes, severe joint and muscle pain, nausea and vomiting, fatigue, and a rash. Dengue fever was once called "break-bone fever" due to the severe pain that is sometimes felt in the joints and muscles. Other common symptoms caused by the virus can create hemodynamic changes, or changes that alter the flow of blood in the body. Examples of blood flow changes seen with dengue fever include nosebleeds, bleeding from the gums, and areas of bruising. Additional symptoms related to changes in blood flow may be evident by reddened areas in the eyes and a sore or inflamed throat. The rash usually begins three to four days after you developed the fever, can get better for one to two days, but then can come back. The initial rash often involves the facial area, and can appear as flushed skin or spotty and reddened areas. The rash does not itch. The second rash begins on the trunk area, then spreads to the face, the arms, and the legs. The second rash can last from two to three days. In some cases, a rash that is made of small dots, called petechiae, may appear anywhere on the body as the fever subsides. Other rashes that sometimes occur include an itchy rash on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet.

Summary: Expect an incubation period of four to seven days. Take your temperature. Watch for flu-like symptoms. Monitor for symptoms of unusual bleeding. Evaluate the rash.

Your cat's changed behavior might be one of the first signs you notice that alerts you to a tail injury. Your cat may begin dragging his tail or keeping it low to the ground all the time, dribbling urine randomly, or having diarrhea. Your cat may begin walking unevenly or losing coordination in his back legs. Dribbling urine and having diarrhea are not symptoms of a broken tail on their own. If the tail injury was severe enough to cause these signs, the cat will definitely be dragging the tail. Gently feel along the length of the tail. Signs of injury or break include tender, swollen or bent areas. If you notice redness, tenderness, and swelling with fluid underneath, there may be an abscess, or pocket of pus, forming on your cat's tail. If there is exposed bone or if the skin has been stripped from the tail leaving only bone this is called a 'degloving' injury. If you happen to notice a hard, non-painful kink in your cat's tail, it's probably because he was born with the kink in the tail or it's an old, already healed injury. Never pull or try to remove a severed portion of tail since there are tough tendons and sensitive nerves. If you pull or stretch the tendons, you'll damage the use of the tail, hind limbs, bladder and bowel functions. It may also cause arterial bleeding, which is difficult to control and potentially life-threatening for your cat. The vet can address the injury without additional damage to the tail. Your cat may need a partial or full amputation of his tail if he has a degloving injury, deep cut, or if his tail is deeply or mostly severed. Your vet can also prescribe antibiotics to prevent infection which is highly likely with any open wound. Even if there are no external wounds, the vet can check your cat for other injuries. The vet may find neurologic damage from the tail being pulled during the accident. The vet will examine the tail for signs of physical or neurological damage. If the vet suspects nerve damage, your cat may have an electromyogram test. Anal sphincter and tail muscles are tested for nerve input. This lets the vet know if the tail will be able to recover. Your cat may still be in pain when you bring him to the vet's office. Stay close to him and speak in gentle comforting tones. You may want to loosely wrap your cat in a towel and place him in his carrier when you bring him to the vet's. This will calm him. Depending on where and how the tail is injured, your veterinarian will determine surgery or another treatment. If the tail is paralyzed, but your cat can still walk, the vet will probably amputate the tail. If the end of the tail has a break that's not causing problems for your cat, the vet may tell you to let it heal on its own. Your cat may need to stay at the veterinarian's for a few days to either rest and heal, or to determine the extent of the damage to the tail. If your cat's tail must be amputated, don't worry. It may take him a while to adjust to the lack of nerve sensation and change in balance. But, your cat will adapt to the change and his mobility won't suffer in the long run.

Summary: Watch your cat's behavior. Examine the cat's tail for injury. Take your cat to the vet if you suspect a tail injury. Understand treatments.

Remove any personal items and other shower accessories from the bathtub and place them somewhere out of the way. Wash the tiled area with the bathroom tile cleaner. Find a cleaner that will get rid of soap scum without leaving a residue. You can also use a mild dish detergent and hot water to clean the tiles. Use the utility knife or razor to make an incision on one side of the caulk seam. Hold the knife so it is near the wall at the base of the silicone and slide the knife down the full length of the seam. Slice slowly and be careful not to cut into the wall. Don't cut all the way through the seam. Your goal is just to loosen the edge of the seam. Make a shallow cut by using only the tip of the knife. Repeat the previous step on the other side of the same seam. Slide the knife along the length of the seam close to where the silicone touches the tile, but again without slicing into the wall. Peel the caulk up and away from the tile. This will remove the silicone that was filling the joint, along with the part you can see. If you encounter any resistance from the sealant, use the putty knife to push it along. Use the utility knife or putty knife to dig out any leftover pieces of silicone carefully. Position the knife at an angle to the tile and take your time to avoid scratching or damaging the tile. Repeat the steps for any other seams that you want to remove. Take your time and continue to work carefully. Wet the scouring pad with acetone and wipe it over the bathroom tiles. It may take a little elbow grease to get rid of tougher residue. If you don't have acetone, you can use rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits instead. Use a mixture of a cup of bleach and 1 gallon of water to kill any mold or mildew. Wait until it dries completely before adding new sealant.
Summary: Clean the shower or bathtub. Select the first caulk seam to remove. Hold one end of the loose silicone sealant. Remove the remaining sealant in the joint. Scrub the tile to remove any residue.