Problem: Article: Vinyl is remarkably easy to keep clean with a simple rinse, if you do it often enough. Unless there is mold or mildew, or tough/thick stains, some high-pressure water should be more than enough. For single story houses, a garden hose with an attached nozzle should suffice. For multi-story houses, you'll likely not reach without a pressure washer, which can be rented cheaply at most hardware stores. Wind will pick up dust and dirt that may stick to the walls, and slow-drying vinyl can leave streaks. Neither are serious issues, but if you work with the weather you'll have an easier, neater job. You'll be much more effective if you work in small areas, which will help you keep track of what you've done. Furthermore, you want to rinse the walls off before they dry completely to get rid of the dirt for good, which will be impossible if you try to tackle too large of an area. You don't want to wash the walls from the top down, as this will tend to lead to streaks of dirt instead of a clean wall. If using a pressure washer, do not use the highest setting -- keep it low and gentle. If you have "slats," the stacked horizontal bars of vinyl, you want to try not to force the water between the layers of vinyl. As you get higher up the house, the hose will be hitting less powerfully, and this isn't as much of a concern. Still, when possible, blast at a downward angle, or straight on, to prevent loosening the vinyl siding in any way. Work in the direction of curved areas, corners, or molding. Again, you're trying to prevent water from getting stuck or lodged in openings in the siding. If left in dark, cool areas, this moisture can quickly turn into mold or mildew. You want to be careful at any junctions or areas where you can get under the siding, and you want to be especially careful near flimsy screens or windows when using a high-pressured hose. Consider using a long-handled brush, or removing the screens and scrubbing with a cloth and water from the inside of the window. These same rules apply near wiring, plumbing, and gutters as well. At the very least, lower the pressure considerably before proceeding. The first run will dissolved and dislodge the dirt and grime, and it will stay wet as water from above trickles down. Your rinse, which should start from the very top, then removes all of the dirty water to leave your house spick and span.
Summary: Use a high-powered garden hose for small houses, and pressure hose for larger walls. Plan to work on a sunny day without a lot of wind, if possible. Work on only one wall or section at a time to prevent streaking. Start from the bottom, running the hose side to side as you move up. Spray at eye level whenever possible, preventing water from pushing in between the siding. Work way from the corners, shooting water away from any gaps. Consider cleaning around windows and doors by hand. After you've working completely up from the bottom, rinse the whole wall from the top down.

Problem: Article: Mosquito larvae are very small, so make sure you purchase a small aquarium net designed to capture tiny aquatic life. Nets designed for brine shrimp will work perfectly. You can also use an eye dropper to capture individual or small groups of eggs or larvae. Make sure to transfer the larvae or eggs into your aquarium quickly so they don't die before your fish can eat them. Pouring your water container into your aquarium is not advised, as you may not want to introduce the algae and debris in the mosquito's water to your tank. Most fish probably will not immediately eat the small egg "boats" but they will attack the "wrigglers" or larvae as they emerge from the eggs. This is the best way to ensure your mosquito larvae don't grow into full grown pests in your backyard. It's okay if your fish eat the egg boats before they hatch. These eggs will usually hatch within 48 hours of being laid, so you may not find them very often. You are much more likely to encounter larvae than unhatched eggs because of how quickly eggs hatch. Mosquito larvae will come to the surface regularly to breath. Larvae will shed their skin as they grow, so you may find empty bits of larvae skin. Fish are unlikely to eat shed skin. Larvae appear to have antennae which are actually siphon tubes used for breathing. Larvae that enters the pupa stage will look as though they have developed a head and will no longer feed on algae. These can be fed to fish, but should otherwise be washed down the drain as it is the last stage before flying. Even if you have more larvae than you can feed your fish, it's important that you purge your developing larvae on a weekly basis. Depending on the environment, mosquito eggs can develop into full grown, flying pests in as little as four days or as long as two weeks. To avoid cultivating a swarm of mosquitoes in your yard, purge any larvae your fish don't eat by pouring the water down the drain. Pouring your water out in your yard may not prevent the larvae from becoming full grown mosquitoes. Your fish likely will not eat dead larvae, so if some do not survive you can simply discard them with the water as you change it each week. If all of the larvae is dying, there is an issue with the temperature or quality of the water. If you used tap water, there may have still been some chlorine present. Chlorine will kill mosquito larvae. If your bucket received direct sunlight at some point of the day, it may be becoming too hot for larvae to survive in the water.
Summary:
Use an eye dropper or small net to catch your larvae. Place unhatched egg boats in your fish tank. Capture larvae "wrigglers" and place them in your fish tank. Harvest your larvae weekly. Dispose of dead larvae.