Problem: Article: Pull precut buns apart to separate the halves. Use a knife to carefully cut the buns in half if they are not precut. This method works best when you are already grilling other foods. That way, you have a grill already hot to toast the buns on. If the buns are meant to be attached, such as hotdog buns or sub sandwich buns, then just open them up as much as you can without pulling the halves apart where they connect. You can brush the buns with about 1 tbsp (14.2 g) of butter or 1 tbsp (15 mL) of olive oil before grilling them for added flavor.
Summary: Cut the buns in half or pull them apart.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: An offset bend requires you to bend the conduit in two places at opposite angles, usually between 10 and 45 degrees. Use this to shift the conduit to avoid an obstacle or change elevation, the continue in its original direction. Measure the distance between the two parallel locations where the conduit will run before and after the bend. Measure at right angles, not along the bend. Always measure between two identical positions on the conduit (base-to-base, center-to-center, or top-to-top). Do not rely on the nominal diameter of your conduit, which is slightly smaller than its actual size. As a general rule, the shorter the offset distance, the smaller the angle. An offset of a few inches can use a 10 or 22.5 angle, but an offset of several feet may call for 30 or 45. Smaller angles will "use up" less of your conduit, but may be more difficult to bend precisely. If your conduit layout requires precise measurements, calculate the amount of shrinkage, or additional length required for the bend: A 10 angle uses an additional 1/16" of length per inch of offset depth. A 22.5 angle uses 3/16" per inch of offset depth. A 30 angle uses " per inch. A 45 angle uses " per inch. A 60 angle uses " per inch. To find the total shrinkage, multiply the offset depth in inches by the shrinkage value above. Find the total shrinkage using the instructions in the previous step. Add this number to the distance from the end of your conduit to the obstacle. Mark the conduit at this length. Here's an example for a conduit you plan to bend at a 30 angle to overcome a 10" step: The shrinkage for a 30 angle is inch per inch of rise. (See previous step.) Multiply by 10 inches of rise: x 10" = 2.5 inches. This is the total shrinkage. Let's say the conduit will run from an electrical box 40 inches from the step. Add this distance to the shrinkage: 40 inches + 2.5 inches = 42.5 inches. Measure 42.5 inches from the end of the conduit and mark it with a marker or pencil. Each angle has its own offset multiplier, listed below this step. Multiply this value by the offset depth to get the length between your two bends. For a 10 angle, multiply the offset depth by 5.8. For a 22.5 angle, multiply offset depth by 2.6. For a 30 angle, multiply by 2. For a 45 angle, multiply by 1.4. For a 60 angle, multiply by 1.2. Some benders list the offset multipliers on one side of the head, directly opposite the corresponding angles on the other side. These may not match the numbers above perfectly due to rounding. Place the tape measure against the first mark you made, for the far bend. Measure back toward the end of the conduit, until you get to the length you calculated. Mark the conduit at this spot, the position of the near bend. Follow this example if you're having trouble with this step: Return to the earlier example of a 30 angle up a 10" rise. A 30 has an offset multiplier of exactly 2. Multiply the offset depth (10") by 2 to get 20". Place the tape measure against your first mark, 42.5" from the end (calculated in the steps above). Measure 20" toward the end of the conduit and make another mark. This is the position of the other bend. Place the conduit on the floor. Line up the arrow on your bender with the mark farthest from the end you measured from. (This is the first mark you made.) Slot the bender onto the conduit, and apply steady foot pressure to bend the conduit. Watch the degree mark on the side of your bender that matches the angle you chose. Continue bending until this mark touches the horizontal portion of the conduit. Position the bender so the foot pedal is between the two marks. For example, if you plan to bend at a 30 angle, bend until the 30 mark touches the edge of the conduit. You can use any mark on your bender instead of the arrow, as long as you use the same mark to create the second bend. A different mark may be more convenient for bends near the end of the conduit. To prepare for the second bend, leave the bender attached to the conduit. Pick up the bender and place the handle end on the floor, leaning it against your leg to keep it stable. Slide the bender back toward you until the arrow lines up with the second mark on your conduit. Without taking it out of the bender, rotate the conduit exactly 180. Sight along the conduit to make sure the bent end lies along exactly the same plane as your bender. If the bend is sticking out to one side, your conduit will not lie flat. You may lean the bent end down against the ground to support it. Brace the bender handle against your foot and leg. Confirm the arrow on the head still lines up with the mark you made. Grip close to the bender head and pull slowly down until the conduit touches the desired angle mark on the bender. The farther away you hold the conduit, the less accurate the bend will be. Grip as close to the mark as you can without making the task unreasonably difficult.

SUMMARY: Use offset bends to shift the position of the conduit. Measure the depth of the offset. Choose an angle for the bend. Find the position of the far bend. Use the offset multiplier to find the distance between the two bends. Mark the position of the near bend. Bend the far bend using the stub up system. Flip the conduit and bender upside down. Roll the conduit 180. Create the second bend by hand.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: If you can connect a phone, tablet, or computer to the network and access the webpage that you're having trouble with on your primary device, the issue is definitively with the device and not the router. Not being able to connect with the second device doesn't necessarily mean that the router is the problem. This is one of the quickest ways to test your DNS connections. Download a different free browser such as Firefox or Chrome and attempt to connect to the internet; if the problems persist, you can rule out browser problems as the reason for your DNS server not responding. If the issues are resolved, uninstalling and then reinstalling your old browser will likely fix the problem. This will clear your router's cache and thus may resolve DNS errors. To do so: Unplug your modem's power cable as well as your router's power cable. Allow both your modem and your router to sit for at least 30 seconds. Reconnect your modem and wait for it to come back online. Reconnect your router to your modem and wait for it to come back online. If you're already using Ethernet, skip this step. If you can connect to a web page while using Ethernet, the problem may stem from your router. You'll most likely need to reset it. If you can't connect to a web page while connected via Ethernet, your DNS settings may be the problem.
Summary:
Try connecting with a different device. Try a different browser. Power cycle your modem and router. Connect your computer to your router via Ethernet.