INPUT ARTICLE: Article: As soon as you notice wear or cracking on the rubber handle, replace it right away. After you gently roll the new grip on, tape it with bat tape. Store your bat somewhere that's not too hot and never wet or damp. Never store your bat in a hot car or any other hot area, as it can warp the wood. If the bat ever gets wet, dry it with a cloth and store it somewhere cool to dry. When it has dried, apply a thin layer of oil. At the end of each season, remove the anti-scuff sheet. Apply a layer of oil and let it sit for 24 hours. Then, apply a second coat of oil and let it rest for a week. Sand it down and repeat the oiling process. Apply a new ant-scuff sheet.

SUMMARY: Replace the rubber handle. Keep the bat dry and cool. Replace the anti-scuff sheet.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: This method can be time consuming as you have to iron each bill one separately, but it's a time saver for those with just a few bills. Find a well-functioning iron with a sturdy ironing board. Make sure all the windows are closed and the fan is off so the bills don't blow away while ironing. Arrange as many as you can on the board, but you may need to iron them in separate sessions if you have a lot of wet currency. For those who want to add crispness as well, spray extra crisp heavy starch onto the bills. You may be tempted to set the iron temperature higher in order to dry the bill faster. However, this can lead the bills to become burnt or even set aflame in some instances. Take the time and make sure it's on the lowest heat setting so your bills are dried without becoming damaged. Move the iron over the bill in a steady, back-and-forth motion. Never place the iron on the bill and wait. This will cause the bill to catch on fire or become burnt. Iron the bill back and forth, and then flip the bill over to iron the backside. Each bill should be dried in about 30 seconds, but it may take longer depending on the saturation.

SUMMARY: Consider using an iron to dry your bills. Place each individual bill on the ironing board. Set the heating of the iron to the lowest setting. Iron each bill.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Accumulated dirt, grime, and grease will make removing bolts and disconnecting components a messy job. osition the vehicle near your hoist. You'll need to be able to work on an even and well-lit surface, with enough room to position your hoist and maneuver around. If you've got a big enough garage, all the better. It's a good idea to take close-up pictures of as many components in the engine as possible, from different angles. As you get to working, these can be invaluable. You might even print them out and label them for a reference. Having tubs to hold bolts, clamps, and fasteners to sort these, a workbench or table to lay out tools on, and a parts soaking and cleaning bucket will make handling these items easier. Mark the hinge bolts so you'll be able to find them later. Loosening them carefully, have a helper assist as you slide it off and store it while you complete the job. Note that some hoods have electrical connections for an underhood courtesy light or for headlamps, signal lights, and fog lights that are mounted on it. These should also be disconnected. It's important to disconnect the ground cable on the battery before you do anything else, then start draining the coolant and radiator hoses to do the job safely. Be very careful not to damage the metal clamps, which are more difficult to replace than the rubber hoses, which you might have to cut or break. Remove the radiator and fan shroud (if applicable). Be gentle with it, the aluminum cells are delicate, and can easily be damaged. Next, loosen the alternator, the tension assembly, cooling fan(s), and belts. Disconnect the intake air supply and the fuel lines. Some vehicles have a fuel system which is pressurized even when the engine is not running, so be prepared to drain the fuel and relieve the pressure before disconnecting them. When you unbolt the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor, do it without disconnecting the hoses to save yourself some time in reassembly. It's a good idea to make drawings and take close photos, as well as labeling the hoses and wires with tape and marker. Do not depend on memory. Some wires and hoses will only plug into place in one way, but some are not obvious. You'll likely still need a chart, diagram/drawing, and pictures to ease the reassembly process. You can leave the spark plug wires for later, but start disconnecting the exhaust manifold and unbolt all visible electric connections to the transmission in preparation of disconnecting the transmission. Jack up the car and put it on jack stands, then support the transmission from underneath with other jack stands. It's very important to use jack stands, or some other support under the transmission before you disconnect the bolts. Once you loosen them, there won't be anything supporting the transmission and it will fall unless it's being held up by something. For vehicles with an intermediate cross member, this won't be an issue. In most cases, the transmission itself doesn't need to be removed from the vehicle, as long as it can be safely supported when the engine is removed. Connect the hoist to the lifting points on the cylinder heads, or the biggest bolts near the top of the engine and adjust the leveler slowly to start lifting the front. Be extremely careful. Swing motor free of car to avoid hitting the car and lower the engine onto your work surface, or the ground to start disassembly and inspection.

SUMMARY: Thoroughly clean the engine before beginning if possible. . Organize your work area before you begin. Remove the hood. Start disconnecting the external engine components. Remove all electric connections to the motor. Remove the bolts that attach the transmission's bell housing to the engine. Use the hoist to remove the engine.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Add an extra 1/3 of that measurement. to get your cutting length. For example: Desired length: 12 inches (30cm) 12 divided by 3 = 4 inches (10cm) 12 + 4 = 16 inches (41cm) 16 inches (41cm) = cutting length Embroidery floss is a great choice here, but you can use other types of string, like jute or yarn. Use the same color for all 4 strands, or you can use different colors. For a wider 4-strand braid, cut 8 to 12 strands. These strands are divided into 4 groups later on. Gather the strings together, then tie an overhand knot 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6cm) from the end. Tape the strings to a flat surface, like a desk, just above the knot. An overhand knot is formed when you coil the string into a loop, then pull the end through the loop. 2 strings to the left and 2 strings to the right. With 8 to 12 strings, you still divide the strings into 4 groups. Each color group is worked as a single strand from now on. Starting from the left, mentally number the strings 1 through 4. Cross the 1st string on the left over the 2nd string. Cross the last string on the right under the 3rd string. Re-number your strings 1 through 4. Take string number 4, and cross it under string number 3. Re-number your strings one last time. Take string number 3, and cross it over string number 2. This process is a little bit like weaving. Cross the 1st string over the middle string. Cross the 4th string under the 3rd string. Cross the new 3rd string over the new left string. Continue until your braid is the length you want, or until you have 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6cm) left. Every so often, give all of your strings a tug so that your braid comes out nice and neat. Just like the braid start, tie the end of your braid into an overhand knot. If a lot of string is leftover, cut it off. To wear this as a bracelet, wrap the braid around your wrist, then have someone tie the ends together into a double-knot for you.

SUMMARY:
Decide your braid's length. Cut 4 pieces of string based on your measurement. Knot the strings together, then tape them to a flat surface. Divide the strings into 4 groups. Begin braiding. Continue the braid. Cross the 3rd string over the 2nd string. Repeat the process, starting from the 1st string on the left. Knot the end of the braid, then cut the rest off. Remove the tape from the start of the braid.