Article: Your first decision is to decide where to house your rabbit. The ASPCA encourage indoor rabbits, as they are less likely to be 'forgotten' about than a rabbit that is out of sight in a yard. If you do house your Dutch rabbit outdoors, you need to make sure they have shelter from the rain, sun, and wind, and that the enclosure is predator proof. A wide variety of indoor cages and hutches are available. They can range from a whole room that is rabbit-proofed, to a puppy crate, to rabbit condos. Whatever your choice, the important thing is the rabbit has plenty of space to move around, plus specific areas for a litter tray, food and water, and a hide. If you have more than one rabbit then each animal should have the option of a separate hide so they can withdraw if they feel overwhelmed for any reason. The minimum length of an indoor hutch and run should be 4 foot (1.2m), but preferably 5 foot, and these are usually half as wide as they are long. They should be high enough to let the rabbit stand up on its hind legs without its ears touching the top. However, even with a run of this size, the rabbit should be allowed free roaming time everyday, so it gets plenty of exercise and time to forage, explore, and prevent boredom. Within the hutch you should provide a litter tray. Rabbits are clean animals and Dutch rabbits especially will rapidly learn to use a toilet area. Paper-pulp type litter is ideal, as it is less harmful to the rabbit if eaten than clay-based cat litters (which you should avoid). Each rabbit should have its own shelter, where it can retreat if it feels stressed. If a rabbit is stressed its natural instinct is to hide, and providing hiding places goes a long way to reducing additional stress. Wire floors are NOT acceptable, as they damage the rabbit's feet. If the cage has a wire floor either remove it or cover with with plywood. Dutch rabbits are liable to get pododermatitis, which is the equivalent of pressure sores on the back of their hocks (equivalent to the human ankle). This is painful and debilitating and the most common cause is rough or mesh flooring, or sitting in soiled bedding that is not changed often enough. Make sure the floor is covered with a minimum of 23 inches (5.17.6cm) depth of bedding. There are numerous substances that can be used for bedding, including straw (warm and soft), paper pulp (recycled material, safe and high absorbent), and shredded cardboard.Traditionally sawdust was used for rabbit bedding but this can be dusty and also contains oils that are irritating to the rabbit's lungs and therefore best avoided. Spot clean the litter tray daily and removed urine soil and pellets. Clean the tray fully with disinfectant once a week, or sooner if the tray starts to smell. Be aware that rabbits pass two different types of pellets: a small dry pellet that is entirely waste material and a larger sticky cecotrophy. The cecotrophy represents food that has passed through the gut but still contains nutrition and the rabbit needs to re-eat it. Never remove cecotropes from the litter tray or you could be depriving your rabbit of valuable nutrition.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Decide whether to keep the rabbit inside or outside. Buy a cage. Provide a litter box, bedding area, and eating area in the cage. Pay attention to the flooring in the cage. Keep the cage clean.

Problem: Article: Multiplying the rounded length and width measurements will yield the square footage of a step. The square footagealso called the areaof a step will give you the number of square feet (or meters) that you'll need to cover with carpet. So, the calculated area of 1 of the stairs in our example would be: 8 square feet (0.74m2). If you plan to install carpet padding beneath the carpet on the stairs, add 3 inches (7.6cm) to the total area of the stair before rounding. Count the total number of stairs and record that number. Multiply the square footage of 1 stepthe number you just calculatedby the total number of steps. This is the total area, or square footage, for the stairs you plan to carpet. Say that you'll be carpeting 12 stairs. In our example, you'd need a total of 96 square feet (8.9m2) of carpeting to cover your stairs. Keep in mind that the stairs may not all be in 1 row. For example, many homes have 6 stairs, then a small landing, then 6 more stairs. Find the landing measurements that you calculated earlier. Multiply the landing's length times its width. This will give you the total area of the landing (and the riser just below it). Add this number to the total area of the stairs to calculate the total surface you'll need to purchase carpet for. In our example, your landing measures 4 by 5 feet (1.2m 1.5m). Multiply these dimensions to calculate the amount of carpet you'll need to cover the landing: 20 feet (6.1m). An online calculator can run the math equations for you, which may prove useful if you're not confident in your math skills. Simply input the width and height of the number of stairs you'll be carpeting. Hit the "calculate" key, and the calculator will give you the total area measurement. Find a carpet calculator online at: https://www.homeadvisor.com/r/carpet-calculator. For another option in which you'll only need to input the width and number of your stairs, check out: https://www.improvenet.com/r/carpet-calculator. Mistakes can happen while carpet is being installed, and it's always better to have too much carpeting than too little. So, add in an extra 10% of the total to make sure that you'll have enough carpeting to compensate for any errors your or the carpet installers may make. In our example, the total stair surface area came to 96 square feet (8.9m2). Adding an extra 10% to this estimate gives us a final figure of: 106 square feet (9.8m2).
Summary: Multiply the measurements to find the square footage of 1 step. Multiply the area of 1 step by the number of steps. Calculate the area of a landing and add it to the area of the stairs. Use an online carpet calculator if you'd rather not do the math by hand. Add 10% extra to avoid running out of carpeting.

Bathing your bird regularly is just as important to its overall health as cleaning the cage. Choose a birdbath that is appropriately sized for your bird so that it will not have trouble getting in and out of the basin. Some birdbaths are meant for use inside the cage, while some are meant for use outside the cage. Larger birds may benefit from external baths, but bath setup largely comes down to owner preference. If you have a bird that can swim, such as a duck, make sure the bath contains enough space and water for the bird to be able to dunk their head safely. Allow the bird to use the bath only with your supervision. Fill the bath with warm water, and allow the bird to splash around, getting itself wet and preening for several minutes before removing it from the bath. Once your bird has finished bathing, scratch against the feathers to imitate mutual preening. Be sure not to press the feathers down against the bird's body, as birds do not enjoy this sensation. Your bird will need time enough to dry before the evening. Allowing a bird to bathe too close to bedtime could lead them to getting dangerously cold during the night. Make sure your bird has at least a few hours to dry fully, especially for large birds. If you live in a colder environment, make sure the room is well-heated while your bird is bathing as well as when it is drying off.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary --
Choose a birdbath. Use warm water. Allow the bird to dry.