Section the hard packed snow inside the perimeter of your rectangular trench into equal rectangular blocks. Stubborn blocks can be broken free by sticking your snow tool into the cut around the block and gently wiggling it back and forth until the block is broken free. Then arrange your blocks around the perimeter of your igloo to create the first layer of your dome. Your blocks should be 3 feet (0.91m) long, 15 inches (38cm) high, and about 8 inches (20cm) thick, and should taper slightly as you build upward. Run your snow knife, machete, or handsaw along the edges of your first row of blocks where one block joins the next. This will smooth contours and help fit each block together tightly. When your rectangular trench no longer has snow for blocks, cut another trench the same dimensions as the first. All the snow used in building your dome should come from within the perimeter of the igloo. Due to the rectangular shape of your blocks, you will need to cut a gentle slope inclining from the ground all the way to the top height of your first row of snow blocks. This incline should extend part way around your igloo (perhaps even as much as halfway), and should be cut with your snow knife, machete, or handsaw. This incline will allow your blocks to be stacked in a vertical spiral, creating a snug fit. This will make stacking and layering the ice blocks much easier. Additionally, as you build your dome upward, you will need to shape your snow blocks to fit the reduced space at the top of your dome. Use your snow knife, machete, or handsaw to do this as necessary. Each row of your igloo dome should slope gradually inward. Use your snow knife, machete, or saw to create a very gentle inward slope for each row of snow blocks. Using your hand, plug any gaps you find in your dome from the inside with snow. Simply pat snow into the gap until it is filled. Continue to liberate blocks from the snow within your igloo perimeter with your snow knife/machete, and then stack your next layer starting from the sloping end of your first row. As your dome wall rises, blocks will begin to decrease in size and slope inward. To increase stability and prevent ceiling blocks from falling, bevel the edges where ceiling blocks meet the row beneath. To bevel, cut the inside corner of your ceiling block so that it forms a flat base with its neighboring block beneath. The topmost blocks in your igloo dome are notoriously tricky to fit into place, so take your time and work carefully during this leg of your igloo building. Use your snow knife/machete to sculpt these pieces to fit tightly together. Since your final hole will be exceptionally small, you will have to turn your final block on its end and feed it through the hole on its side. When your final cap-hole piece is balanced on the outer top part of the dome, cut it down to fit in place snugly with your snow knife/machete.
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One-sentence summary -- Harvest your blocks and begin assembling your first row. Cut a slope into your first row of snow blocks. Level and shape igloo walls when necessary. Add blocks cut from the snow inside the igloo perimeter. Fit your cap-hole blocks carefully.

These are the most susceptible areas of your foot for fungal infection due to three main factors: they are often neglected when drying the feet; the spaces between toes don't evaporate sweat or moisture very well; they are most prone to abrasion from poorly fitting shoes. If you're itchy in that part of your foot and see some redness, then you might be dealing with a fungal infection. The primary signs and symptoms of athlete's foot include: a scaly, itchy rash that sometimes leads to stinging or burning pain. In advanced cases, inflammation and peeling of the skin occur between the toes a process called maceration. Athlete's foot is contagious and is easily spread via contaminated floors, towels, socks or flip-flops. As athlete's foot worsens it spreads over the sole of the foot, where it causes dry, flaky skin. It will feel rough to the touch and likely be itchy and somewhat irritated. Initially the area will be small, but it will spread and form an irregular margin. There are three main varieties of tinea pedis: moccasin type (involves the sole of the feet), inter-digital type (involves the clefts between the toes) and the blistering type (involves the formation of blisters). Athlete's foot is sometimes called "jungle rot" by members of the armed forces who serve in humid tropical climates. Foot pain, particularly aches and cramps, are common and usually the result of overuse or ill-fitting shoes, but burning pain accompanied by severe, non-stop itching should make you consider athlete's foot. Fungi cause burning and itching because they burrow into the tissue of the foot and use superficial layers as food. As a result, nerve endings become irritated, which provokes itching and leads to burning pain. Itching is often most intense right after you take off your shoes and socks. Athlete's foot is caused by the same type of fungi that leads to ringworm and jock itch. A foot blister can easily be caused by too much walking or running, especially if your shoes don't fit well, but blisters caused by athlete's foot are different they tend to ooze pus and other fluid and get crusty. Blisters usually form on the thick skin patches, which increases the risk of bacterial infection. After the fungal blisters erupt, lesions with a red, scaly border grow outward and leave a clear center this is the classic ringworm appearance found over the skin. You're at higher risk of athlete's foot if you are male, frequently wear damp socks or tight-fitting shoes, walk barefoot in public areas and/or have weakened immunity. The fungus of athlete's foot often spreads to infect the toenails, which then become discolored, thick and even crumbly. In advanced (chronic) stages of infection, toenails become brittle and may even fall off a condition known as onycholysis. Fungus is difficult to eradicate from nail beds because it burrows deep into the tissue. Burning foot pain and toenail changes are also common with diabetes, so make sure your blood sugar levels are within the normal range.
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One-sentence summary -- Look between your 3rd, 4th, and 5th toes. Look for dry, flaky skin on the bottoms and sides of your feet. Be suspicious if you feel itching and burning pain. Distinguish between types of blisters. Pay attention to toenail changes.

Resting on all fours will help the baby into a good position. When the baby's head puts downward pressure on your cervix, the cervix starts to efface, or shortens and thins out. Resting on all fours for 10 minutes at a time, several times a day, can help move the baby's head into the optimal position. You are probably exhausted at this late stage of pregnancy and ready to just relax. But reclining or sitting back on the couch can be counterproductive to making sure the baby is in the right position for labor. Instead, lay on the couch on your left side, slightly rolled forward. Prop yourself up with cushions to make it comfortable. A birth ball is a large bouncy ball (they are also used in exercising) that can help you sit comfortably towards the end of pregnancy. You can also use this ball to help you cope with labor. Sitting or bouncing on the ball, while spreading your legs wide, can help the baby move downward.
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One-sentence summary --
Rest on all fours. Don't recline backward on the couch. Bounce on a birth ball.