INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Fermentation is conducted in clean, sanitized vessels that are sometimes open but often sealed from the air to prevent cross-contamination. Fermentation usually lasts for 3-5 days. Fermentation is also possible in vessels that haven't been cleaned or sanitized, and the distilled product will yield drinkable alcohol, but the fermentation may result in a high level of unwanted flavor compounds and higher alcohols due to the action of unwanted yeast stains and bacteria. Oxidative cleaners such as B-Brite are available at homebrew shops, as are sanitizers such as iodophor. An airlock is a mechanism that will allow CO2 to escape without letting O2 to get in. Five-gallon (19-L) batches of strained mash can be fermented in a 7.5-gallon (28-L) food-grade bucket or in 6-gallon (23-L) carboys. Lids can be affixed to buckets, as can drilled rubber stoppers to carboys, but when using a lid or a stopper, never seal the vessel completely, as pressure from carbon dioxide production will create explosive pressure. Always affix an airlock to lids and drilled rubber stoppers to prevent explosive pressure from building. When fermentation is conducted in open vessels, put a cheesecloth over the vessel to keep out bugs and other undesirable things. If a mash was made, strain the liquid with a fine mesh strainer from the mash into your cleaned and sanitized fermentation vessel. Try to splash the liquid and pour it from a distance so that it is well aerated. Yeast needs air (oxygen) initially to grow and start a quality fermentation. This is because yeast makes cellular material in the form of lipids from oxygen. However, oxygen is not desired after this initial growth stage, as yeast produces alcohol in the absence of oxygen. You may want to add a sugar solution at this time. Aerate the sugar solution by pouring it from a distance into the fermentation vessel. If juice is to be fermented, aerate by pouring from a height through a sieve or strainer into the fermentation vessel. Hydrate the appropriate amount of dried distillers or other desired yeast and add it to the liquid. Stir with a clean, sanitized spoon to evenly disperse the yeast. If using an airlock, the airlock will bubble during active fermentation, and the bubbling will slow dramatically or cease altogether as the liquid becomes completely fermented. Keep the fermenting liquid in a room that is about 80 to 85 F (27 to 29 C) to facilitate good, efficient fermentation. Alternately, use a heating belt in cold areas. Distillers yeast will ferment cleanly, produce a high amount of alcohol (ethanol), and produce a relatively low amount of unwanted compounds such as alcohols other than ethanol. The amount of yeast used will depend on the specific brand or type of yeast used. Nutrients may be included with the yeast in the yeast packet. Yeast nutrients are needed when fermenting a medium that is low in nutrients, such as sugar solutions, but they can also improve fermentations when used with nutrient-rich mediums such as those made from grains. Siphon off the fermented, alcoholic liquid (called the wash) into a cleaned and sanitized vessel or into the distillation apparatus. Leave the yeast sediment behind in the fermentation vessel, as it can scorch when heated in the still. The siphoned wash may also be further clarified by filtration or other means before distillation.

SUMMARY: Clean all your utensils and prepare the area properly. Choose and set up your airlock. Strain the mash or liquid into your fermentation vessel. Add yeast to the fermentable medium. Collect the wash.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Just to be safe, wash your contaminated items on their own without any uncontaminated clothes. The laundry cycle should remove the oil from your clothing, but you won't want to risk contaminating other items. Traces of oil could remain in the leftover water that didn't drain. Further, agitation is necessary to remove the oil from your clothing, and extra clothes will result in less agitation. Lots of hot water, agitation, and plenty of washing time are all it takes to remove urushiol from clothing. It might seem wasteful to wash just a few items on the highest load and time settings, but using these settings is essential. Urushiol isn't very water soluble, so it'll take lots of water and detergent to get rid of it. In addition, a long wash cycle will help prevent residue from redepositing on your clothing and washing machine's interior. Because of urushiol's low solubility, you'll need as much detergent as possible to get it out of your clothes. Use an entire capful or scoop of detergent, or pour it into your washer's detergent drawer compartment to the max fill line. While any laundry detergent should do the trick, a degreaser detergent is the best option. If necessary, divide your clothes into multiple loads so each load only fills your washer halfway at most. If you completely fill your washing machine with clothes, there won't be enough room for the agitation necessary to remove the oil from your clothes. If you used a long washing cycle, you've most likely eliminated all of the oil. However, there's a chance that traces of the oil might be left in the water in the machine that didn't drain after the wash cycle, and you don't want to take any chances of getting it on your skin. Once you've transferred the clothes, run the empty washer for one cycle on the hottest setting to ensure you've removed any residual oil. Feel free to air dry your clothes if you prefer. The washing machine does the dirty work; a machine dryer doesn't play any part in getting rid of the oil. A high efficiency washing machine automatically senses load size and uses less water, so it might not get out all of the oil in your clothes. To stay on the safe side, pre-treat your clothes with a store-bought urushiol removal product, such as Tecnu or Zanfel, then machine wash them twice. While wearing gloves, apply the product to your clothes when they're dry. After washing them, run the empty washer on a hot self-cleaning cycle.

SUMMARY: Don't wash contaminated clothing with uncontaminated items. Use the hottest water, largest load, and longest cycle settings. Use a full scoop of laundry detergent. Avoid filling up the washing machine with clothing. Wear gloves when you transfer clothes to the dryer. Use a commercial product if you have a high efficiency washer.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: On many modern designs, this is a relatively simple process. De-cock the hammer (or striker), pull the take down tabs. After a pull toward the rear of the frame, the slide should be able to move freely off the front of the handgun. The actual process may vary greatly depending on the model of firearm you are field stripping. Glock & Steyr users: Be triple-sure your firearm is unloaded as you must pull the trigger on the firearm to initiate the field stripping process. There are four major pieces to every semi-automatic handgun (though they may be attached in different ways). Frame: this is the stock (or "grip") of the handgun. The trigger assembly is usually embedded in the frame, and the magazine well is located inside of the stock. Slide: the piece of metal on top of the firearm; it keeps the chamber sealed, compensates for recoil (on many semi-autos), and houses the firing pin (and a few other components). If you have a polymer frame, this is where 70% (or more) of the gun's weight is. Barrel: the barrel assembly is the barrel and the chamber. Be cautious with the muzzle-end of the barrel and the beginning of the rifling (inside the barrel), as these are the two most important things to affect accuracy and can easily affect it adversely, if damaged. Guide rod and recoil spring: often these are one piece. The guide rod guides the slide as it recoils and the recoil spring pulls the slide back into place after a round is fired.

SUMMARY:
Dismantle the firearm safely. Identify the parts you are cleaning.