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Retrofitting an existing room in your home or business is the cheapest and simplest way to protect your loved ones from storms or intruders. While building or installing a prefabricated safe room can cost between $2500-$6000, you can retrofit an existing room for a thousand or less. Choose a room that is in the interior of the house with no windows or skylight, and no walls shared with the outdoors A large walk-in closet works well. A safe room needs a door that can withstand high winds or being kicked in by an intruder, and should ideally open inwards rather than outwards in case debris is stacked outside the room during a storm. Remove the existing door and doorjamb. Replace the doorjamb with a steel one, and reinforce the surrounding wood with steel angle iron (which will prevent the door from being kicked or blown in). Replace the door with a heavy, solid wood door (such as one sold as an exterior front door for a home) or with a heavy steel door. Mount it so that it opens inwards rather than out. You can choose if you want to use a traditional deadbolt or a keyless deadbolt. The keyless deadbolt has the advantage that you don't have to find the key in case of an emergency, but can be dangerous if you have small children in your household who may lock themselves inside. Before installing the new locks and doorknob, reinforce the wood around them by installing steel or brass strike plates, which you can purchase at most hardware stores. Install the locks so that the door locks from the inside. If it's a traditional deadbolt, be sure to make a copy of the key and keep the keys in two separate but easily accessible locations, where you can find them immediately in case of emergency. If you are adding the safe room to new construction, you can reinforce the walls and ceiling with concrete, chicken wire, or steel sheeting before adding dry wall and paint to the walls. If not, you will need to tear out the existing drywall to reinforce the walls. The most cost-effective way to reinforce the walls is by pouring concrete into the cavity between the 2x4s in the walls. Then, screw plywood or 1-1/8 oriented strand board to the 2x4s on either side. You can then cover this with drywall and paint. You can also screw steel sheeting to the 2x4s and cover with drywall and paint. You will need to use steel sheeting or chicken wire in the ceiling, which can be done from the attic if you're in a one-story home, or applied directly to the ceiling (less attractive, but chances are good no one will be looking at the ceiling of your closet safe room). If you want to create a more complicated or stand-alone structure, its important that it is up to code. If you don't have a lot of experience with construction, you can contact a contractor or local storm shelter company for help planning and installing your project. Ask around for recommendations of local contractors. Ask family or friends who have recently remodeled or done construction work, or contact the National Association of the Remodeling Industry or a local building inspector, who will be able to point you in the right direction.

summary: Select your room to retrofit. Replace the door. Install locks. Reinforce the walls and ceiling. Contact a contractor for help.

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Most credit cards (and other types of plastic cards) have a thickness of 30 mil, which comes out to around 0.76 millimeters (0.762 mm, to be exact). It isn't the most exact measuring tool, but it may be close enough for tasks that require you to have a rough idea of how something measures up in millimeters. If you don't have a credit card handy, stack 10 sheets of 812in (22cm) x 11in (28cm) printer paper on top of each other to get a layer that's about 1 millimeter thick. This may be harder to work with than a single plastic card, though. A "mil" is a little-used imperial unit that corresponds to one thousandth of an inch, and is not to be confused with millimeters. Align the outer edge of the card with your chosen starting point on the object. Imagine that the card is a ruler, and that the edge is the 0mm line. For this method, you'll essentially be adding up 1 millimeter at a time in order to find the one of the object's given dimensions. Run the tip of your writing utensil down the card to trace a line long enough to be plainly visible. This marks a distance of 0.762 millimeters between the end of the object and your first line. You'll be drawing a number of lines quite close together, so use light pressure to make the line as thin as possible. Sharpening your pencil or using a pen with an ultra-fine point will help. This line will be 1.52 millimeters from your starting point. Reset your card on the far edge of your second line and draw another. Continue measuring and marking in small increments until you reach the end of the object, then count up the number of individual spaces. Make sure you count the spaces between the lines and not the lines themselves, since there will be 1 too many. To increase your precision a bit, count every 4 lines as 3 millimeters total. This will help make up the difference, since the card isn't exactly 1mm thick.

summary: Grab a normal credit card. Stand the card up on a piece of paper beside the object you're measuring. Use a pen or pencil to draw a thin line along the inner edge of the card. Slide the card down to the other side of the line and repeat the process.

Summarize the following:
If you want your sandcastle to be 5 by 5 feet (1.5 by 1.5m), then outline a 5 by 5-foot area. Use a stick or shovel to mark the outside perimeters. Use large buckets, shovels, and garden spades to pile the sand over the entire area. For the best results, use sand that is located below the tide line. This sand is typically wet and compact. Alternatively, mix one part sand with one part water in a bucket. Use this sand to create your base. Use a stick to poke a grid of holes into the base of sand. Slowly pour buckets of water over the entire base. Let the water drain all the way through the sand. Pour one bucket of water for every 1 foot (0.30m) of sand. If the sand still feels too loose or dry, then add more water. Press on the sand with your hands to pack it down. You can also use your feet to pack the sand down. Pack the sand down until it feels like a solid block beneath you. You can also roll a large bucket over the sand to pack it down. Use your shovels and buckets to pile more sand onto the base. Poke holes into the sand with a stick. Pour water into the sand and pack it down with your hands and feet. Keep adding sand and water until you have a solid base of sand that is at least 1 to 2 feet (0.30 to 0.61m) high.
summary: Outline an area as big as you want your sandcastle to be. Pile 6 inches (15cm) of sand evenly over the entire area. Pour water into the sand to make it compact. Use your hands and feet to pack the sand down. Add another 6 inches (15cm) of sand.