Summarize the following:
The only difference between writing in print and in cursive is the shape of the letters. Keep all of the advice from the first two sections of this article in mind as you practice cursive: have good quality materials, a writing desk of appropriate height, good posture, and proper hand positioning around the pen. You were probably taught how to write all the letters in both lower and uppercase as a child. However, if you, like many adults, have gone many years without practicing your cursive script, you may find that you don't recall how all of the letters are formed. Though many of the letters are fairly close to their print counterparts, some the "f" in both lower and upper cases, for example are not. Purchase a cursive handwriting book from the "school" aisle at the store, or go to a teaching supply store if you cannot find it there. If neither of those options pans out for you, buy one online. You can also find the letters easily online for free. Just as you did with print writing, you should practice each cursive letter discretely, as you did as a new student of cursive. Make sure that you are following the correct stroke pattern for each letter. At first, leave each letter isolated. Write a row of ten capital A-s, a row of ten lowercase a-s, a row of capital B-s, etc., making sure that each iteration of the letter stands alone. But remember that in cursive, letters connect to one another. After you've grown comfortable practicing the letters in isolation, repeat the previous step, but connect each letter to the next. Note that there is no convention in cursive for uppercase letters being connected in a row; therefore, you would write a single uppercase A and connect it to a string of nine lowercase a-s. The biggest difference between cursive and print, other than the shape of the letters, is obviously that the letters in a word are all connected by the pen stroke in cursive. As such, it's important that you be able to connect any two letters together naturally without having to think too hard about what it should look like. To practice this, follow staggered patterns through the alphabet, rotating through day-to-day to both keep you from getting bored and to help you cover all the various connections over time. Front to back, working to middle: a-z-b-y-c-x-d-w-e-v-f-u-g-t-h-s-i-r-j-q-k-p-l-o-m-n Back to front, working to middle: z-a-y-b-x-c-w-d-v-e-u-f-t-g-s-h-r-i-q-j-p-k-o-l-n-m Front to back skipping one letter: a-c-e-g-i-k-m-o-q-s-u-w-y; b-d-f-h-j-l-n-p-r-t-v-x-z Back to front skipping two letters, and always ending with: z-w-t-q-m-k-h-e-b; y-v-s-pm-j-g-d-a; x-u-r-o-l-i-f-c And so on. Create as many different patterns as you'd like the goal is simply to focus thoughtfully on creating the connections between different letters. The added benefit of this exercise is that since the letters do not create actual words, you cannot speed through the writing. By forcing yourself to slow down, you will practice writing the letters and connecting them in a deliberate and thoughtful manner. Just as you did in the previous section, you should move on to actual words, sentences, and paragraphs once you have grown comfortable with the individual letters. Use the same pangrams you practiced on with your print handwriting. With print handwriting, you lift the pen after every letter or a couple of letters, depending on your personal style. However, with cursive, you will have to write many letters before you can lift your pen. This can cause problems in terms of fluidity of penmanship. You may be tempted to rest your hand after every letter or two. Not only does this interrupt the flow of the word, but it can also result in inkblots if you are using a fountain or other liquid ink pen. Write as slowly and deliberately as necessary to make sure you don't have to rest your pen in the middle of a word. The cursive script should progress through a word at an even, smooth pace.

summary: Use the same quality materials and posture as you did with print. Jog your memory on the cursive alphabet. Practice each letter in upper and lowercase. Perfect the connections between different letters. Write out sentences and paragraphs. Move your pen slowly but surely.

Summarize the following:
Although ticks are found outdoors, indoor infestations of the brown dog tick are not uncommon. This kind of tick feeds on dogs and other animals and prefers warm, dry conditions. The first step in removing these ticks is to de-clutter your home, because ticks hide almost anywhere. Pick up items from the floor, and don't leave dirty laundry lying around. Your tick infestation is an opportunity to do a little spring-cleaning. Ticks attach to dirty clothing or bed linens. Wash clothes or linens you suspect may be tick-infected in the hottest water suitable for the fabric type. Avoid leaving dirty laundry on the floor, and if you suspect any clothes or linens might have ticks, do not put them in the laundry hamper, because this will contaminate the other clothes. Put them straight into the washing machine. The next step is to clean your entire home thoroughly from top to bottom. Clean out shelves, dust forgotten corners and sweep, mop, and vacuum all floors. Your vacuum cleaner will be your best friend during the tick-removal process, because you can suck up ticks from all over the house; in animal bedding, in cracks in the floor and wall, on baseboards and crown molding, and on and underneath furniture. Be sure to dispose of the vacuum bag afterwards. Once your house is cleaned and decluttered, and you have physically removed as many ticks as possible, you will need to use pesticides to kill any remaining ticks and their eggs. To kill tick eggs and larva, you need to lightly dust all areas of your home with a pesticide contain boric acid and botanical extracts. Sprinkle a little extra dust around your pet's bedding, which is a favorite laying spot. To kill the adults, use a pyrethrin-based pesticide spray designed especially for getting rid of brown dog ticks. This is safe for humans and pets and works quickly. Spray this pesticide all over the home. Don't forget carpets and curtains, and the underside of tables, chairs and sofas. Make sure to read the label for exact directions. Read the directions on the pesticide to see if people and animals have to leave the area for a certain amount of time after the pesticide is used. Indoor pets, usually dogs, are the number one source of tick infestations. Dogs can carry ticks in from outdoors, or catch them from other animals in the kennel or the local neighborhood. First you need to physically remove any ticks that are using your animal as a host, then treat the dog with a topical tick-killing product containing ingredients such as fipronil, amitraz or permethrin. Ask your veterinarian for suggestions. You may also invest in a tick-repelling collar for your pet. These will keep ticks from latching onto your cat or dog for approximately three months. These collars can be difficult to find in stores, so ask your vet, or shop online. Severe tick infestations may require a professional exterminator. They have specialized equipment and pesticides, which kill ticks immediately on contact. They also have an in depth knowledge of ticks' habitats and behaviors, so they will be able to locate the ticks very quickly. If your tick infestation remains a problem, despite your best efforts to get rid of them, you may want to consider this option.
summary: De-clutter your home. Wash dirty clothes in hot water. Clean your house thoroughly. Dust your home with pesticide. Treat indoor pets. Call an exterminator.