Q: Divide your content into major points and use them to set up an outline and develop subpoints underneath the major points. Starting with an outline will help you organize your thoughts and help you get starting in writing the actual wording of the lecture. Try to organize for consistency and include a relatively equal amount of information, subpoints, reflective questions, and sources for each larger unit of your outline. Introductions and conclusions are even more important for verbal lecture than written content because, unlike a written paper, the audience likely won't be able to go back if they missed something. The introduction should prepare the audience for the most important parts of the lecture and the conclusion should restate those essential parts. The statement of purpose should clearly outline the functional value of the lecture. For example, say "By the end of this lecture, you should be able to apply the Pythagorean theorem to calculate the length of sides of a triangle." Directly state the purpose of the lecture in both the introduction and conclusion. Consider ahead of time what you can cover in your allotted time. Generally, it takes 2 minutes to recite 1 double-spaced page, although this can vary from person to person. Assign a certain amount of time to each part of your lecture and time yourself as you practice. If you don't have much time, hit only the important points. Try not to go off topic or spend time discussing things that aren't relevant to your main point. It is usually better go slightly shorter with your lecture than to go over the time limit. Try to anticipate parts of your lecture that might be confusing and specific questions that the audience may ask. Where you do anticipate confusion, do your best to clarify each part of the information and make time to respond to questions or concerns. You should also try to demonstrate the concept in a practical way. For example, if you're explaining a difficult math formula, do work out several problems while clearly explaining how the formula applies. If you're having trouble determining this on your own, ask a friend or colleague to review it and determine areas of confusion.
A: Start with an outline. Include an introduction and conclusion. Tailor the length to the amount of time that you have to speak. Anticipate questions and confusion.

Article: A magic eraser works wonders on smooth rubber soles, and leather for that matter. Dip your magic eraser in water and squeeze out the excess. Gently scrub your soles and wipe water off with a paper towel. Repeat this process until you remove as many scuff marks and stains as you can. This works best on smooth soles. A magic eraser will not get into textured areas as easily. Rubber soles can be a tricky area to keep clean on white sneakers, especially if the soles are textured. Spot clean scuffs or grass stains and get into crevices with a toothbrush. Spray an all-purpose cleaner on your toothbrush or use soap and water, and scrub away. The sun can yellow-white rubber soles. Keep your shoes in a closet or under a bed. Make sure they're stored away from large, open windows and never keep your shoes outside.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Use a magic eraser. Spot-clean soles with a toothbrush. Store shoes away from direct sunlight.

Q: Getting the right frame size is only one part of sizing a bike correctly. Think of sizing measurements as your first draft -- it is the basis for everything that follows, but you need to make finer adjustments to get everything right. While you should set your seat before you buy a bike, making finer adjustments is crucial to comfortable sizing. Remember to pedal with the balls of your feet and don't swing your hips up and down with each stroke. If you feel pain in the back of your knee when riding, your seat is too high. Lower it 1-2cm. If you feel pain in the front of your knee when riding, your seat is too low. Raise it 1-2cm. Loosen the bolt underneath the back of the seat to move the seat forward or backward several centimeters. Make sure the seat is far enough forward for you for you to reach the handlebars comfortably. If your seat is in the right position, you will be able to stand on the pedals without using the handlebars to pull you up. If you have trouble standing, reaching for the bars, or feel finger numbness, then your seat is too far back. Trouble riding down hills and/or shoulder pain usually means your seat is too far forward. Use a carpenter's level to make sure the seat is flat, as this ensures even distribution of your weight. While some people believe a seat should be tilted up, a level seat is almost always the best starting point. However, if you experience crotch discomfort, you can try: Women typically tilt the seat down for comfort. Men typically tilt the seat up for comfort. Loosen the bolt on the side of the seat to change the seat angle. You can easily loosen the bolt, change the angle, then tighten again. Some older seats have two small bolts underneath the seat, one in front of the seat post and one behind. You must tighten one side to push that side up while loosening the other, almost like a see-saw. . You want to ride in a way that's comfortable for you, and that changes from person to person. You want to feel in control of the bike without lower back pain. Most beginner riders want the handlebars to be even with saddle, or 1-2" lower for racers and mountain bikers. Your elbows should be slightly bent and your fingers light on the handlebars -- they could freely play the piano if there was one there. The position of your handlebars is determined by four things: Top Tube Length refers to the length of the bar between your handlebar stem and seat post. These are adjusted to fit the frame, and unless you have a very disproportionate body (torso much larger/smaller than legs) getting a properly sized frame will give you a properly sized top-tube. Stem length is the distance between your top tube and the handlebars. The longer the stem, the further away the bars will be from your seat. Stems run from $15-$150 and are the primary way to adjust your frame to make it fit your torso. Longer stems bend you into a more aerodynamic position while shorter stems lead to a more upright, calmer riding style. Handlebar angle can be changed independently from your stem. To do so, loosen the 4 bolts where the stem meets the handlebars and angle it up or down to your comfort. This is a great way to get an extra 1-3 inches on your handlebar position, which can make a big difference in comfort. Handlebar height may often be changed by adding or removing the metal spacers where your stem meets your frame. To do so, loosen the bolt on the top of the stem and the two that clamp the stem to your frame and remove the handlebars. Then add or remove the spacers accordingly. You can only make minor changes, however, as there is not a lot of room for new spacers. Some older road bikes with quill or threaded stems may allow you to adjust the handlebar height by raising or lowering the stem.
A:
Know that you must adjust the seat and handlebars to truly size a bike. Make minor adjustments to your seat height if you feel knee pain. Adjust how far forward the seat is to change your distance to the handlebars. Start with your seat angle leveled evenly with the ground. Adjust your handlebars to ride comfortably