In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Only use vacuums that can handle wet and dry materials, like a chipper vacuum or a wet/dry shop vacuum. Position the vacuum where you plan to start cleaning your gutters. Insert the longest hose into the vacuum and fasten the longest rigid extension attachment to the hose. The power cord for your vacuum may not be long enough to reach a power outlet. Use an extension cord to supply your vacuum with power in these cases. Choose a vacuum that has a strong motor for this project. Vacuums with weak suction will not be as effective. Measure the total length of the rigid extension attachment. When measuring gutter height, measure from the top of the gutter to about knee height. Subtract the attachment length from the gutter height. This measurement is the total length of your secondary extension. While using the gutter vacuum, you'll likely hold the attachment at about chest height. Measuring the gutter from its top to the ground will likely result in a gutter vacuum that is longer than necessary, making it more unwieldy. Mark the secondary extension measurement (gutter height attachment length) on the rigid plastic tube or pipe. Use a hacksaw to cut the plastic to secondary extension length. Excess tube/pipe can be reused or thrown away. Cutting your tube/pipe may have left behind burrs. These can cause slivers or cuts. Remove burrs with a file when necessary. Slide the end of the extension attachment into the secondary extension. Join these pieces together firmly with aluminum tape. Do the same at the opposite end of the secondary extension with a duct elbow. When the first elbow is in place, similarly add the second elbow to it. Putting these pieces together will result in a long, straight, rigid extension that ends in a hook. The hook formed by the elbows should curve so it is facing roughly downwards. So the tool fits inside the gutter, use a nozzle or flatten the end piece. Be sure to tape the connections of your homemade gutter vacuum thoroughly. Gaps may cause suction to decrease, making the vacuum less effective.
Summary: Equip your vacuum with a rigid extension attachment. Calculate the measurement of the secondary extension. Cut a rigid plastic tube or pipe with a hack saw. Assemble the gutter vacuum.

Keep lists of needs that will require a trip and try to accomplish multiple objectives with each. This will not increase your fuel mileage (the number of miles your car moves for each gallon of gas), but it will help you drive less (which, in turn, means you use less gas). Take the route with the fewest stops and turns and least traffic. Take highways in preference to city streets when possible. Put it in a spreadsheet. It will keep you focused, and other methods are inaccurate; you will never know for sure if you're saving fuel, wasting fuel or just seeing errors from gas pumps that stop pumping at different points, or fractions of miles being dropped off your 'trip' odometer when you reset it.
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One-sentence summary -- Plan your trips. Plan your route carefully. Maintain a log over time of how many miles you go (the main odometer) and how much gas you put in (from the gas pump, including fractions).

Q: If there's still a stain after the first time you scrubbed it, put on another layer of the baking soda. This time, use a spray bottle filled with white vinegar to help lift the stain even more. Allow the paste to sit for another 5 minutes before scrubbing it off.
A: Reapply the paste with vinegar if the stain persists.

Problem: Article: The best kind of enemas are specifically prepared for cats. These contain dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate in glycerine like Feline Pet-Ema ®️. The dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate draws water into the feces causing it to soften. The glycerin portion helps in lubricating the rectum. You can easily find cat enemas for sale online. Alternatively, consider using warm water or mineral oil. You can also use warm water or mineral oil. Warm clean water is the cheapest and safest option since it's not likely to cause dehydration. Mineral oil is also relatively safe, can easily lubricate the rectum, and help small hardened stools pass. But, it can affect levels of fat soluble vitamins (like vitamin D) and should be avoided in cats with underlying kidney disease. If you use water or mineral oil, know that it can take time before the stool softens since it does not draw water from the intestines like sodium-based enemas do. It also lacks lubricating properties. Expect it to take several flushes into the rectum before the feces softens and slowly comes out (from a few minutes to 2 hours). Never use Fleet enemas or any other enema containing sodium phosphate. Cats can absorb sodium and phosphate molecules from these enemas into their blood and tissues. This can lead to a severe electrolyte imbalance and dehydration, which could be life-threatening. If you're purchasing a prepared enema kit, it will come with the correct syringe. If you are using water or mineral oil as an enema, use a 10-25 mL syringe and a soft feeding tube attached to its end. The tips of feeding tubes are rounded, soft and can prevent damage during insertion. Always lubricate the end of the syringe or feeding tube. Place a light coating of lubricant (like KY Jelly or Vaseline) on the end of the syringe or feeding tube. Your bathroom is a great place to do enemas because your cat is familiar with the place, it is enclosed, and the cleaning will be confined to a small place afterwards. Clean all the surfaces and assemble your materials. An enema can be a messy procedure. You may want to lay out some towels, absorbent pads, or newspaper on the bathroom floor. You'll be best off wearing clean, plastic gloves. It's important that this process is hygienic for you, too.
Summary:
Purchase an appropriate enema. Use the correct, lubricated syringe. Prepare your environment and materials.