Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Perform a dry run the first time you use the smoker. Make sure that the thermometer is away from the edge of the grate. Search for leaks if the temperature is inaccurate. Ensure that the smoker is clean. Adjust the intake damper on hot, cold, or windy days. Check the fuel if the temperature is not rising fast enough.

Answer: A dry run is where you run your smoker without any food. This will help you gauge how long it takes your smoker to reach a certain temperature. Write down how long it takes for your smoker to reach the right temperature. Keep this for future reference. Use a lid thermometer to keep track of the temperatures inside the smoker. Some smokers have built-in thermometers, but these can be off by 50F (10C). Some parts of a smoker are much hotter than others. If you place your thermometer near these areas, you won't get an accurate temperature reading. Some thermometers, especially electric ones, are just inaccurate or go bad. You should replace it when this happens. If the temperature inside the smoker does not match the temperature on the damper, you may have a leak. This is especially common among cheap, barrel-shaped smokers. The leaks typically occur around seams. Once you find them, seal them with gaskets or food-safe silicone. If sealing leaks did not help, try using the exhaust damper instead of the bottom ones to adjust the temperature. If the inside of the bowl or ash catcher are dirty, you will have poor airflow, which can affect the temperature. The bottom damper should also be clean to reduce clogs. If it is clogged, then you won't have enough oxygen reaching your fire, resulting in low temperatures. If your smoker tends to run too hot, leave it smoky and greasy inside. This will make it less reflective and allow it to radiate heat outside the smoker. If it is a hot or windy day, close the intake damper to reduce the temperature inside the smoker. If it is a cold day, open the damper in increase the temperature. If that doesn't help, try the following: Hot day: move the smoker out of sunlight or shield it with a canopy or patio umbrella. Cold day: have extra fuel handy. Windy day: work downwind or move the smoker next to a wall to shield it. If your intake damper is open and the temperature has not changed for several hours, give the charcoal or firewood a stir. If that doesn't help, add some more charcoal or firewood. Switch up the brand of fuel. Sometimes, that is all that you need to do. Not all brands are created equal. Lump charcoal tends to burn hotter and faster than coal briquettes. If the smoke is white, the wood may not be burning properly. Open the intake damper to allow more oxygen and create a hotter fire.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Scrape off deeper burn marks using the blade of a utility knife. Smooth out the damaged area with fine-grained sandpaper. Brush off the leftover wood shavings with a damp rag. Apply a layer of tung oil to the wood to restore its color. Let the oil soak into the wood overnight. Fill the divot with wood epoxy Sand the epoxy flush with the flooring using coarse sandpaper. Stain or paint the filled burn mark to match the color of your flooring.

Answer: The only way to remove burn marks deeper than about 18in (0.32cm) is to scrape out the burned wood itself. Take a utility knife and drag the edge of the blade over the burn to remove the damaged wood. Work in short strokes and make sure you're following along the wood grain, not cutting across it. Purchase a utility knife (and spare blades if you like) at a hardware store. Some stationary or office-supply stores may also sell them. If the wood surrounding the burn wasn't damaged when you scraped out the burn, you should be able to even out the surface of the wood with sandpaper. Sand along the wood grain (not across it) using back and forth motions until the groove (where the burn used to be) has been smoothed out. Local hardware stores will sell sandpaper. Choose fine sandpaper with a number around 360 or 400. (When working with sandpaper, higher numbers indicate finer grain.) When you've finished scraping away the burn mark and sanding the surface of the wood, you'll be left with a small pile of wood shavings. To remove them from the wood, dampen a rag and rub it along the surface of the wood to remove the shavings. It's important that the rag you use is lightly damp. Otherwise, you'll just end up pushing the shavings around. You can purchase tung oil at a paint-supply store or a home-improvement store. Dip a piece of clean cloth into the tung oil and rub it over the formerly burned section of wood. Work in strokes about 35 inches (7.612.7cm) long, and be sure to apply the oil along the wood grain, not across it. Depending on the color of the wood you're repairing, you can also try using a linseed oil. The two oils are similar, and the only major difference is that linseed oil yellows over time. This will work to your advantage, though, if the wood you're repairing has yellow tones. Since tung oil (and linseed oil) is nondrying, it will take several hours to absorb into the hardwood and harden in place fully. So, follow the directions provided on the tung oil's packaging regarding, as some tung-oil manufacturers may ask you to wipe off the oil rather than letting it soak into the wood. If you're dealing with hardwood flooring and have kids or pets in your home, keep them away from the oily floor until it's dry. until it's flush with the rest of the flooring. Wood epoxy contains a number of chemical components that should be mixed together following the manufacturer's instructions. Once the epoxy has reached a putty-like consistency, use a spackle knife to press the epoxy into the hardwood hole where the burn mark used to be. Let the epoxy dry overnight, or for 6-8 hours. During this time, be sure to keep any wandering children or curious animals away from the epoxy. You should have no problem finding an assortment of wood epoxies at a local hardware store or home-improvement store. A sheet of 80-grit sandpaper would work well for this step. Rub the sandpaper back and forth several times across the dried epoxy until you've smoothed it down to the same level as the surrounding flooring. Be careful to avoid sanding too much on the hardwood flooring itself. You don't want to scuff up the undamaged wood accidentally. Once you're finished with the 80 grit, if you like, try sanding again with 120-grit sandpaper to ensure that the epoxy is smooth. Use stain or paint based on whether the surrounding flooring has been painted or stained (in most cases, hardwood will need to be stained). Dip a 3in (7.6cm) paintbrush into the stain (or paint), and apply a smooth coat across the area you've repaired. Give the stain (or paint) at least 4-5 hours to dry, and apply a second layer if the new layer is darker than the rest of the flooring. If you're unsure of the exact color of your flooring, you can test out sample paint or stain colors before using them. Test the material on a small, out-of-the-way corner of the flooring.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Visit a brick-and-mortar store. Know the difference between a glove and mitt. Familiarize yourself with various adjustments. Choose a material. Assess the cost.

Answer:
Whether you plan on purchasing your mitt or glove online or in-store, go to a local sporting goods store first. Test the fit and feel of various brands and models in person to ensure that you're buying the right glove for you. Gloves separate your fingers from each other for greater dexterity. Mitts omit this feature due to their heavy padding; even if they did separate your fingers, the thicker padding would make it harder for your fingers to move independently of each other. Browse gloves if you're an outfielder, pitcher, or second- or third baseman, or a utility player. Browse mitts if you're a catcher or first baseman. Learn the difference between velcro, D-ring, lace, and buckle adjustments. Decide which one you prefer. Velcro: loosens or tightens your glove quickly with minimal fuss. D-ring: allows you to adjust your glove's fit by pulling on one lace. Lace: uses multiple laces to change your glove's fit. Buckle: uses a clasp to secure your glove's fit. Buy a glove or mitt made from synthetic materials for younger players who expect to grow out of their current size, since these tend to be cheaper. For more durability over longer use, invest in a leather glove or mitt. To break your glove or mitt in more quickly after purchase, opt for treated leather that has been pre-conditioned for this purpose. Avoid the cheapest mitt or glove available, since the price usually reflects the quality of craftsmanship. At the same time, resist grabbing the most expensive one automatically. Choose the right glove for you, which may or may not be the highest priced item.