Do not force any parts of your printer to move. Look for arrows indicating where you can open the printer. Many printers have a top, front section that lifts up to reveal the printer cartridges. Unlike many toner cartridges, most ink cartridges are made with clear or opaque material so that you can check ink levels.

Summary: Turn on your printer. Open the top (or middle) of the printer and the cartridges will than move to the proper position. Remove the individual cartridges carefully by gently pressing down on the cartridge (HP) or opening the cartridge case and pulling out the cartridge (Epson). Repeat this procedure with the remaining ink cartridges.

How far you dip it in depends on how thick you want the colored band to be. The deeper you dip the fabric into the dye, the thicker the band will be. If you want to, you can use a pin to mark where you want the dye to end. Dip the fabric into the dye just below the pin; the dye creep up the fabric as it dyes. Drape the fabric over the side of the dye bath; make sure that the part you want dyed is in the dye. Leave the fabric in the dye for 15 minutes, or until you get the color you want. Keep in mind that the fabric will dry a few shades lighter. This will create a stark line between the dyed part and the un-dyed part. Clip the fabric to the edge of the dye bath with clothespins so that it doesn't slide down. Dip the fabric into the dye however deep you want. Gently bob it up and down in the dye until you get the color your want, then drape the fabric over the edge of the container. Leave it there for about 15 minutes so that the dye can soak in. This will create a softer line between the dyed part and the un-dyed part. It's not quite an ombre, but it's not stark or harsh. Placing a pin where you want the dyed part to end will help you know how far to dip the fabric each time you bob it. Leave the fabric in the dye for 1 minute, then pull it out one-third of the way. Leave it there for 2 to 3 minutes, then pull it out by another third. Wait 5 to 6 minutes, then pull it out the rest of the way.

Summary: Dip the fabric into the dye. Leave the fabric in the dye if you want a striped or banded effect. Move the fabric up and down if you want a slight gradient effect. Gradually pull the fabric out if you want a larger gradient effect.

If you picked up your driftwood from a natural location, such as a lake, you might see particles of dirt sticking to the wood's surface. Grab the piece by the end and give it a good shake. Perhaps tap it gently on the ground a few times to loosen any additional grains. This also helps to remove any pests, like ants, from the wood. If you are working with 'outside' wood then you may need to get more serious about removing the grime. Grab a sturdy brush and scrub the wood. Try to go over as much of the surface area as you can. You may want to repeat the scrubbing process after the soaking the wood as well. If you plan to use the driftwood for a craft or furniture project, you may want to carefully consider your choice of brush. A soft-bristle brush will not scratch the wood whereas a wire brush will clean more effectively but can also leave scrub marks behind. It is generally a good idea to scrub with the grain. A wire brush is a good option if you need to remove bark. Driftwood often contains small nooks that are hard to fully clean. Use a screwdriver or knife to dig into these areas. Carefully apply pressure so that you don't splinter the wood. If you want a gentler method, push into crevices using the edge of a slightly damp toothbrush. This is especially effective at removing sand. You can also use an air compressor to shoot concentrated bursts of air into deeper holes. This is less damaging then picking and often equally effective. Removing the outer layer of the wood is one way to get it clean. Use a garnet sandpaper with a light grit. This type of sandpaper works well with handcrafted projects and will not overly scratch the wood. If you want to dig deeper into the wood (perhaps in a rotten area), upgrade to a higher grit. If you are unsure about what your driftwood project requires, go to your local home improvement store to feel your various sandpaper options firsthand. No one wants driftwood that is infested by insects. Shaking it off will remove some pests, but to get extra reassurance seal your driftwood in a plastic bag and leave it for a few days. Check back for evidence of dead bugs. A more aggressive way to kill off insects is to spray an insecticide into the bag before sealing it. Be warned that the chemical residue from this method could prove potentially fatal to fish if the wood is intended for an aquarium. This is best used in crafting or woodworking situations.

Summary: Shake it. Scrub it. Pick at it. Rub it with sandpaper. Kill off any bugs.

Hand reamers work best in soft materials such as wood or plastic. Begin by choosing the size reamer to which you need your hole bored out. A hand reamer will have a square shank and depending on the size of the reamer, you'll fit the shank into either a tap wrench or crescent wrench to turn it. A hand reamer allows for great accuracy after considerable practice. Since a reamer is a precision tool, you don't want your material moving around as you ream the hole. Because a reamer is an enlarging tool and not a cutting tool, you must drill out the hole with a standard drill bit before reaming it. You want to use a drill bit approximately 0.016" smaller than your reamer to ensure that you don't oversize the hole. For instance, if you know that you need to ream your hole to 1/2", then you'd want to drill the hole first with a 31/64" drill bit. Drilling a hole too small and leaving too much material left for the reamer to clear can lead to the reamer deflecting off the material, which is called chatter. Chatter leads to poor finishes and can also damage your reamer. Based on the material into which you're boring, you may need to apply cutting fluid to lubricate the reamer. Though less common with hand reaming, it's not unheard of. Now that the hole is prepped, you can use your tap wrench or crescent wrench to ream the hole. You will likely have either a straight flute reamer or a left-hand spiral flute reamer, which refers to the direction of the blades that actually enlarge the hole. In the case of a spiral reamer, you will need to turn counterclockwise.
Summary: Choose your reamer. Place the material you need to bore in a vise or steady it with clamps. Drill the hole. Apply lubricant to the material. Ream the hole.