Article: Masonry chisels come in many shapes, including bolster, pitcher, and sculpting chisels. Pick one that is the right width and shape for your job, and is made to chisel the material you are shaping. A bolster chisel is beveled on one-side of the blade and is used to break off large pieces or sections. A pitcher chisel is beveled on both sides of the blade and is used to cut straight lines. Sculpting or engraving stone requires a wide variety of specialized tools and chisels. Making a line where you want to break the stone or brick will help you keep on track as you chisel. You will make scoring marks along this line before trying to break the brick or stone in half. However, chiseling into stone and brick is not always exact, so be prepared to work with pieces that don't break right on the line. You want to hold the chisel so that it is at 90 degrees and will go straight into the brick or stone. If you hold it at an angle, the cut will go off at an angle as well. It can take some practice to be able to hold the chisel perfectly upright while hammering it. Try making some practice cuts before chiseling into pieces that need to be cut correctly. Gently tap the end of the chisel with a hammer, mallet, or sledgehammer along the line you want to cut away. After you score one part of the line, move the chisel down the line and continue scoring the entire length. The score line doesn't need to be very deep. You are just aiming to make the line weaker than the surrounding material, so that the stone naturally wants to break there. The goal here is to make a line that the stone or brick will break cleanly along. If you don't make a score line, a piece of brick or stone wider than your chisel can break jaggedly. Strike the handle of the chisel sharply with your hammer, mallet, or sledgehammer. Use as much force as you can, so that the chisel is driven down into the stone or brick. Repeat your strikes all along the score line on either side of the first strike until the break occurs.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Pick the right masonry chisel to score, trim, or shape brick or stone. Mark the stone clearly with paver's chalk or a dark pencil. Set the masonry chisel perpendicular to the surface you are chiseling. Make a score line along the brick or stone. Make a hard strike in the middle of your score line.

Problem: Article: The "COM Surrogate has stopped working" error usually appears when you're looking through folders containing thumbnails for videos and images. The error is typically caused by codecs (software that processes video files) that aren't compatible with Windows Vista. The most common culprits are DivX and Nero. There several quick fixes you can try to resolve the problem. If you have either or both of these programs installed, they could be the source of your problems. You can update DivX by downloading the latest version from divx.com. You can update Nero using the update utility in the program, or by downloading the newest version from nero.com. There are a couple of Nero files that can be causing the problem, and renaming them will essentially keep them from running. Doing this will break Nero ShowTime, however, so avoid this fix if you rely on that program. Open C:\Program Files\Common Files\Ahead\DSFilter\ Rename NeVideo.ax to NeVideo.ax.bak Rename NeVideoHD.ax to NeVideoHD.ax.bak This isn't a very elegant fix, as you'll no longer be able to see thumbnails for your images or videos, but it will keep the error from appearing whenever you open a folder. Open any folder on your computer. Click the "Organize" button in the upper-left corner of the window. Select "Folder and search options" Click the View tab and check the "Always show icons, never thumbnails" option. Click Apply If you don't rely on Nero, you can remove it from your system completely. This will usually solve your problem, but you'll need another utility to remove it completely. Download and install Revo Uninstaller. Select any Nero applications from the list. Perform a Moderate scan at the end of the uninstallation process. Repeat for every Nero entry.
Summary: Understand what causes the error. Update your versions of Nero and DivX. Rename a few Nero files. Disable thumbnail previews. Completely uninstall Nero.

U-pins are also called hair pins. They are like bobby pins but open and shaped like a letter U. You will need lots of them. You can find U-pins at a beauty supply shop or online. If you absolutely cannot find any U-pins, get some stiff wire and cut it to twice the length of your finger. Fold it in half until a narrow U-shape. It should be no wider than your finger. Do not use bobby pins; they will not work for this method. Use a lightweight styling mousse on clean, straightened, tangle-free hair. Your hair must be brushed, or it will turn out frizzy. It might also be a good idea to straighten it first; this will also help reduce frizz. The styling mousse is especially important for those with naturally-straight hair, or for those whose hair can't hold a curl easily. Pull three-quarters of your hair up into a loose bun at the top of your head. The bottom fourth of your hair should be hanging loose around your shoulders. You will be working on this section first. The section should be about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) wide, and 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) tall. Bring the curved part of the pin as close to your scalp as possible. The closer the pin is to your scalp, the more volume you will get. Start wrapping the hair around the two prongs until you reach the end of your hair. Weave the hair in and out of the prongs in figure-rights. When you reach the end, consider wrapping a small hair elastic around the ends of the U-pin. This will help pinch the pin closed, and prevent your hair from unraveling. Work in 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) sections. For more holding power, you can also add a little bit of hairspray as well. Do not use a high heat setting. Start ironing from the ends of the U-pin first, and work your way towards your roots. Only clamp the straightener down five seconds at a time. Repeat the sectioning, weaving, and straightening process for the next three layers. When you are done, you should have no hair left to weave. You should have four rows of hair-wrapped U-pins. Make sure that you spray and "straighten" each row before starting on the next. If you remove the U-pins too soon, your hair will not hold its crimp. This will take about ten minutes or so. Start from the bottom layer first. Pull off the hair tie, but don't unravel the hair. Instead, pinch the curved part of the U-pin, and simply pull it out of your hair. If you do, your hair will turn frizzy. If the crimps are too tight for your liking, you can loosen them by running your fingers through your hair.
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One-sentence summary --
Get some U-pins. Apply a styling mousse. Twist most of your hair into a bun. Take a small section of hair, closest to your face. Place the section inside the pin. Wrap your hair around the prongs. Repeat the process for the rest of the bottom layer. Lightly mist the hair-covered U-pins with a heat protecting spray. Set your hair straighten to medium and go over the hair-wrapped U-pins. Continue working your way through your hair. Let your hair cool down. Remove the U-pins. Avoid brushing your hair.