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Chalky paint has a matte finish, goes on with minimal prep work, and is easier to scrape off while you're distressing your furniture. Choose a paint color that matches the aesthetic in the rest of your room. Chalky paint is not the same as chalkboard paint. Chalkboard paint is meant to be written on with chalk after it dries, while chalky paint just has an ultra-matte finish. You can buy chalky paint from any painting supply store. Adding marks to a table surface or furniture legs can make it seem older than what it actually is. Lightly tap your furniture with the end of a chisel or hammer to make indents in the surface. Make the marks random so it doesn't look like an intentional pattern. Wear safety glasses in case any wood accidentally breaks off your furniture. Experiment with different tools around your house to see what kind of marks they make. Use 120-grit sandpaper to roughen the surfaces on your piece of furniture. This helps the paint adhere better so it's less likely to peel off or chip. Make sure to sand any surface you plan on painting so you get a nice even coat. You do not need to sand unfinished wood furniture. Wet a cleaning cloth with warm water and wring it out until it's damp. Wipe all of the surfaces you plan on painting to get rid of any dust or dirt that's on them. Use another cloth to dry any areas that are wet before you start. Dip the ends of the bristles in your paint so there's only a small amount on your paintbrush. Start from the top of your piece of furniture and work toward the bottom. Apply a thin layer of paint on the surface so it can dry fast and even. When you're finished with the first coat, leave it to dry overnight. It's okay if you still see the wood or laminate underneath your first coat of paint. This can help add to the distressed look of the final piece. Once the first coat of paint has dried completely, put another coat of paint on your piece. Again, work from the top of the furniture down toward the bottom, and paint until it has a smooth matte finish. When you're done, let it dry for 3-4 days so the paint has time to adhere to the furniture. Corners and edges are usually the first parts that wear away over time, so start by distressing them. Use 120-grit sandpaper to rub the dry paint off of the surface to expose the wood or laminate underneath. Apply light pressure so you don't accidentally remove more than you want. Add more distress marks where your furniture touches the floor so it looks like it's been scratched up after moving around a lot. Wipe any dust away with a damp rag so you can easily see where you've already distressed the furniture. If you accidentally rub off too much of the paint, you may paint over the area again and start over. Wax acts as a sealant to help protect your furniture from any damage. Dip the end of a cheesecloth in the wax and spread it across the surface of your furniture. Work the wax into the surface in a circular motion until it's smooth. Continue waxing the entire piece of furniture so it's sealed. Furniture wax can be bought from your local hardware or paint supply stores. Wax may take up to 30 days to completely cure, but you can use the furniture after one week.

summary: Use chalky paint for your furniture. Add dings and dents to the furniture surface for an extra-distressed look. Sand the furniture if it has a finish on it. Wipe the furniture with a damp cloth before painting. Apply a coat of paint and let it dry. Paint a second coat onto your furniture and leave it to cure for 3-4 days. Sand edges and common places of wear and tear with 120-grit sandpaper. Seal the wood and paint with finishing wax.

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You should begin the cleaning process with your tape fast-forwarded all the way to the end. Press the button to open your cleaner. You should be able to easily slide the VHS tape in. Close the cleaner and press the clean button. Allow the cleaner to fully rewind the tape, cleaning the film as it goes. The precise directions for tape cleaners vary, so refer to your instruction's manual to make sure you're using your cleaner correctly. Close the cleaner and press the clean button. Allow the cleaner to fully rewind the tape, cleaning the film as it goes. Most cleaners will have a button you press to run a cycle. If you're unsure how yours works, refer to the instruction's manual. Once the tape has run one cleaning cycle, remove the tape from the machine. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screws from the casing that houses the film. After removing all the screws, separate the casings so you can reach the reels and film found inside. Sometimes, tapes will have a sticker or seal on the side to keep the casing together. If your tape is sealed, use a small knife to gently slice open the seal to open the tape. The majority of tapes can be opened with a Phillips head screwdriver. However, if a Phillips screwdriver does not work, use a flathead screwdriver instead. Store the screws in a safe place as you'll need them later to reassemble your tape. Dip a Q-tip in a small amount of isopropyl alcohol. Swab the sides of the casing and around the empty reel to remove mold, dirt, and debris. Avoid cleaning near the reel that the film is currently wrapped around. Only use your tape cleaner to remove mold from the film itself. You can purchase isopropyl alcohol at most drug stores. After running the tape through the cleaner again, you will clean the other reel. Therefore, do not screw the tape back together yet. Simply place the casings together again so they're loosely secured. Place your tape in the cleaner as you did before. This time, allow the tape to fast forward completely to remove any mold remaining on the film. Simply place the tape in the cleaner and then press the cleaning button. Once the tape runs through the cleaner again, remove it and open it up. Again, dip a q-tip in isopropyl alcohol. Use this to clean the empty real and around the interior of the casings. Remove any lingering mold, dirt, or debris. Remember not to clean near the reel that contains the film. Place the casings back together. Place the screws back in place. Use your screwdriver to securely screw the tape back together. If your tape had a sticker in place as a seal, it is not necessary to reseal your tape after cleaning it. You should always end the cleaning process with a rewound tape. Pop the tape back in the cleaner one last time. Rewind it to the beginning. When you're done, your VHS tape should be clean and ready to watch. Keep in mind, no method is ever 100% successful. Very dirty or damaged tapes may not come completely clean. You may need to consult a professional if your tape remains dirty or will not play after using a tape cleaner.
summary: Insert your VHS tape into the machine. Run the machine for a full cycle. Use a screwdriver to open the casings. Remove mold and dirt from the casings with alcohol. Place the casings back together. Use the cleaner to fast forward your tape. Clean up any lingering mold manually. Screw the casings together. Rewind the tape again.