Q: Mix the sanded grout with water in a bucket, according to the manufacturer directions. Firmly press it into the grout lines with the grout float, working in small sections at a time. Remove the excess grout from the surface of the tile before it has a chance to dry. Fill a second bucket with water and use it to wet the large sponge with rounded corners. Wring out the sponge and then wipe over the tile so that you are moving at a diagonal to the grout lines. If you wipe parallel to the grout lines, you might gouge out some of the grout and leave an uneven surface. Rinse the sponge in the bucket of water and repeat until all the grout is removed from the surface of the tile. Sometimes its smart to leave a humidifier on during the two days you're letting it sit, to help the grout gain in strength.
A: Pull the tile spacers out from between the tiles before adding grout. Scoop some grout onto the file floor with a trowel. Wait at least 2 days for the grout to cure before sealing it.

Q: Your compost hole should be about 1 ft (30.5 cm) deep. The area of the hole will be determined by the amount of organic matter you want to add. At most, the compost material should reach a depth of 4 in (10 cm) in the pit. When estimating the hole's size, keep in mind that the compost material will be finely chopped or torn to pieces before being thrown in the hole. Your pit can be as wide as you like. Garden rows, for example, can be enriched with a compost trench dug at standard pit depth. If you have a lot of compost material, you can dig a deeper pit, but avoid going deeper than about 3.2 ft (1 m). Important decomposing organisms cannot live beneath this depth. Try making your pit longer or wider if you need room for more material. Underground composting happens at a much slower rate than aboveground setups. Exposing as much surface area of the compost materials as possible is the key to speeding the process. Kitchen scraps can be ripped apart by hand, chopped with a knife, or even pulverized in a blender or food processor. Yard scraps can be broken down using a lawn mower. Aim for pieces no bigger than 2 to 3 in (5 to 8 cm) long, wide, and thick. It's time to start composting! Dump your food scraps and yard waste into the hole, but remember you don't want the materials you'll be composting any taller than about 4 in (10 cm). Use a shovel to mix the materials together so that they decompose as evenly as possible. It's especially important to make sure your carbon-rich materials (such as paper and dried leaves) are mixed thoroughly with your nitrogen-rich materials (like vegetable scraps and fresh grass clippings). Well-mixed compost materials are important from the outset, as you generally do not turn the materials like you would with other kinds of compost setups.
A: Dig the hole for your compost pit. Chop your compost materials finely. Add the organic materials to the compost pit.

Q: Type out the author or authors as you would for an unedited textbook. The name of the first author is written in LastName, FirstName format. All following names are written in FirstName LastName format. Follow with a period. For instance: Erikson, Leonard. Gill, Rachel and Susan Sanders. The title should be italicized and followed with a period. Each major word (that is, anything that isn't an article, conjunction, preposition, or "to") should be capitalized. Here's an example: Gill, Rachel and Susan Sanders. Textbook of European History. This includes the publisher and year of publication, separated with a comma. Follow with a period. For example: Gill, Rachel and Susan Sanders. Textbook of European History. Ed. Kevin Jackson. European Press, 2002.
A: List the author or authors. Write the textbook title. Specify the publishing information.

Q: The two should overlap so it forms a six-pointed star.
A:
Draw a triangle normal, pointing up. Draw another Triangle, this one pointing down. Erase the lines inside the star. Color the star.