Write an article based on this "Put the envelope flap-side down. Position the address in the center of the envelope. Start with the recipient's legal name. Use the following lines for a department name or institution. Put the recipient's house number and street address on the next line. Add apartment or suite numbers on a separate line. Place the city, state, and zip code on the last line."
article: Your envelope probably has a long flap that clasps or seals the contents inside. You don't want your address to be written on the same side as this flap. While you don't need to take out a ruler and find the true center of the envelope, try to be as accurate as possible. The address shouldn't be way over to the left or right, or too close to the top or bottom of the envelope. Don't use just a nickname or something like "Grandma Suzy." Instead, clearly print the recipient's first name followed by their last name. You don't need to include their middle name unless they generally use it in their official correspondence instead of their first name. This first line would look something like, "Jenna Martinez." If you'd like, you can include the recipient's title (Mr., Mrs., Ms., Dr., etc.) before their name. It's best to avoid writing in cursive when addressing mail. Printed block letters are easier for postal workers to read. If you're sending this envelope to a company, school, or other institution, print that out next. It's best to be as specific as possible, so if you know the specific department you're sending the letter to, include that as well. Use 2 separate lines for this information. For example, if you were sending your large envelope to the University of Oregon's English Department, the second line would look like this, "Department of English," and the third line would be, "University of Oregon." If you're sending your envelope to a P.O. Box rather than a street address, put that down instead. Double check that you're writing down the correct information. Flipping 2 numbers, for example, could easily send your large envelope to the wrong spot! For example, you might write, "125 East Main St." or "P.O. Box 8795." Don't forget to add a direction if the street name includes one. You can use abbreviations (N, W, S, E, NW, etc.). To avoid making the line that includes the house number and street address too long, go to the next one for this extra info. It'll make it easier for the postal worker to find it. You can abbreviate "apartment" to "apt" and "suite" to "ste." So this line might look like, "Apt. 4D" or "Ste. 45." The city should come first, followed by a comma. Then, write the state's correct abbreviation. Look up the correct abbreviation at: https://pe.usps.com/text/pub28/28apb.htm. End with the zip code. This line might look something like, "Easton, CT 06612." It's very important that you use the correct zip code, so double check this information online before you write it down.

Write an article based on this "Grab a hunk of beeswax or colorless candle. Clean the shoes with a damp cloth, or wash dirtier shoes. Test the wax on an inconspicuous part of the shoe. Rub the wax all over the outside of the shoe. Set the hairdryer to high heat. Wave the hairdryer over the shoe from front to back. Continue heating until the wax disappears. Test out the waterproofing."
article: For this type of DIY upgrade, you can't go wrong with a ball of natural beeswax. Beeswax can be found in most hardware stores, where it's commonly sold as a lubricant. If you're unable to get your hands on beeswax, a clear, odorless paraffin wax candle (such as a tea light) will also do the trick. Whatever type of wax you go with, just make sure it's not dyed, or you risk staining the shoe. If the shoes you're trying to waterproof are expensive or irreplaceable, you might want to use one of these products just to be on the safe side. To ensure that the wax settles properly, you'll want to start with a spotless surface. A quick wipedown will help remove dust and light debris. For older pairs that have seen a lot of action, it may be necessary to send them through the washer and dryer before you start waxing. Waxing the shoes without cleaning them first will trap dirt happens to be clinging to them. And, since they'll then be waterproof, cleaning them after the fact can be tricky. Make sure the shoes are completely dry before you proceed. If you're anticipating bad weather, it may be a good idea to wash old shoes a few days before you plan on wearing them. Before you start rubbing away, make a small mark low down on the heel or sidewall of the shoe close to the outsole and see how it looks. That way, you can make sure it won't stain. Keep in mind that much of the contrast will be eliminated after the wax melts. A colorless or off-white type of wax will be the least conspicuous and blend smoothly with the materials and colors. If you're using a colored wax, make sure it matches the hue of the shoe as closely as possible. Rub the wax back and forth vigorously to form a thick layer over any part of the shoe you want to make off-limits to moisture. Really dig in. Imagine that you're coloring with a crayon. Pay particular attention to the areas around the toe, heel, sidewalls, and laces where water has a tendency to seep in. Double check that you've coated the whole shoe. Any spots you've missed will be vulnerable to leaks. As the wax builds up, it will cause visible discoloration. Don't worrythis will disappear as soon as you apply heat. Switch on the hairdryer to let it warm up before blasting the shoes.The more intense the temperature, the faster and more completely the wax will melt. Hold the nozzle close to the surface of the shoe so that the heat is better concentrated. Go over the shoe slowly, turning it or angling the hairdryer as needed. You should notice the wax beginning to fade into the shoe almost instantly. When you've got one shoe done, move on to the other. It may take half a minute or so for the heating coils in the hairdryer to warm up enough to melt the wax. Do one shoe at a time. That way, you'll have a helpful visual reference to tell you when the wax has completely set in. As it liquefies, the wax will become integrated into the fabric, sealing the tiny openings and creating a barrier against moisture. It will then re-harden as a clear, protective layer. The finished shoe should look no different than it did before you waxed it. Look closely for any unmelted sections that you might have overlooked before you put the hairdryer up. Wax is naturally water repellent and non-penetrating, even on the most porous materials, so it won't harm the shoes to become part of their construction. All that's left to do now is see how well your experiment worked. Pour a cup of water over the toe section of the shoe. The water should bead up and roll right off. Congrats! You can now go forth fearlessly no matter how soggy it gets outside. If the water is being absorbed, you may need to apply a second and more thorough layer of wax. Be sure to wait until the shoes have dried before adding more wax. You won't be able to go swimming in your new-and-improved shoes, but getting caught in a light rain or traipsing through a snowy meadow should no longer be a problem.

Write an article based on this "Plant your tulips in the fall, about 6 to 8 weeks before winter. Choose an area that receives some shade. Choose sandy, well-drained soil with a pH of 6 to 6.5. Plant the bulbs at a depth that is about three times as deep as the bulb. Apply mulch."
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Tulip bulbs are best planted in September or October in the northern climates and October or November in the southern climates. The warmer your climate, the later they should be planted. The soil should be below 60F (15C). You can keep tulip bulbs in your refrigerator (or some other cool, dry location) for about 2 months before planting season if you buy them in summer. However, do not store them next to apples, as they give off ethylene, destroying the bulb. Most bulbs need 12-14 weeks of a "cold period" to bring about beautiful bulbs come spring. Do not buy bulbs after December 1st unless they've been "pre-cooled." It should be sunny at least part of the day where you plant your tulips. In places like the American southeast, plant them in a place that gets morning sun only. Tulips want sun, but they also want cool soil don't give them sun that'll scorch them. If you're farther north, sun all day may be fine (the soil will be naturally cool enough). But if you live further south where it's hotter, shade in the afternoon will be better to keep the soil cooler. There is no sub-species of tulip that prefers excessive moisture. The soil should be well-drained, neutral to slightly acidic, fertile, and even sandy. Wet soil is death to a tulip. Never purposefully go out of your way to water your tulips all you can do is ensure drainage by adding shredded pine bark or even sand to the area. The bigger the bulb, the deeper your hole should be. It should be 12 inches (30.5cm) to 15 inches (38.1cm) deep. Loosen the soil to ensure drainage or create a raised bed. The bigger the bulb, the bigger the bloom will be, too. If you live in a very warm climate, you may wish to keep the bulbs in your fridge for the first 4-6 weeks to simulate cold weather. Give it a light watering every couple of weeks to retain a bit of moisture. After planting your tulip bulbs, cover them with chopped leaves, wood chips or mulch. If you have rodents or animals in your garden that you're worried about, you may need to erect a cage or fence around the bulbs. You may also consider putting thorny leaves or gravel in with the soil to deter pests. Use a 1 inch (2.5cm) to 2 inches (5.1cm) layer of mulch, leaves, or wood chips to protect the bulbs, control weeds and retain moisture. If you're planting perennials, you'll need to feed them every year to start them going again. You can use organic material, compost, or a balanced time-release bulb food every fall to start the process going.