Q: Asparagus ferns can be indoor or outdoor plants. It is your choice to plant them in a pot, hang them outside, or plant them directly in the ground. Make sure that you choose an open space that allows room for the plant to grow. Place it in a space that allows 4 feet of height and 3 feet of width to grow. Think carefully about the location because transitioning the plant from indoors to outdoors can be traumatic for it. If you do choose to change the location, gradually transition the plant during a course of two to three weeks. Start by moving it into a shaded area, like in a patio or under a tree. Then, move it into a place that receives more sunlight until eventually moving it into your chosen spot indoors. This plant needs daytime temperatures around 50 to 75F (around 10C-24C). Night temperatures are best around 50 to 65F (10-18C). Choose a spot that maintains an average room temperature. Asparagus ferns can grow in places with moist or dry air, but they do best in a place with moist air. To assure moist air, you can place a humidifier in a room adjacent to the room the fern is placed in. This plant will grow best in a place that has bright, but indirect lighting. It should not be placed fully in the sun. Too much direct sunlight will cause the needles to scorch and drop off of the plant. You will know that the fern is receiving too little sunlight if it the needles turn yellow. Plant it in a place that benefits from the morning sun. Asparagus ferns do best in soil that is rich, light, and slightly acidic. The soil should also be well-drained. Add peat moss to your soil or buy a peat moss planting mix. Peat moss is the partially decomposed remains of several types of mosses that contribute to the right soil condition for your fern. Your soil is well-drained if water percolates through it easily. You can check this by digging a hole in your soil, filling it with water, and allowing it to drain. Your soil is well-drained if the water drops from 1 to 6 inches an hour.
A: Choose a location. Search for a location with a moderate temperature. Pick a place with good lighting. Find a slightly acidic soil.

Article: to the trim, switches, and edges of the shower or tub. Make sure to apply painter's tape wherever the wall meets the ceiling or the floor. Tape door frames and light switches too. The tape will protect these areas from the paint and help make cleanup easier. You may want to cover the floor with a canvas drop cloth, as well. You can remove the switch plates around your light switches with a screwdriver to protect them from the paint. It's damaging on the lungs to inhale paint fumes, so reduce your risk by making sure there is plenty of air flow. Open a window, and position a fan facing outside, so it will whisk away the paint fumes. If your bathroom doesn't have a window, wear a filtered respirator to keep your lungs safe. Check if your wall is plaster by inserting a pushpin. If it goes in easily, you have drywall. You don't have to apply primer for drywall, unless it is a brand-new, never-been-painted wall. If the pushpin does not go in easily, you probably have a plaster wall. If you have a plaster wall, apply one coat of primer with a paint roller. Allow the primer to dry completely, usually overnight, before applying the base coat of paint. Use a low-gloss paint for the base coat. This will make sure that the shinier latex glaze of the top coat stands out. Make sure your base coat resists mildew. The bathroom has a lot of moisture, what with the shower and the sink, so a mildew-resistant paint is best. You can ask at the paint store for recommendations about which interior paints best resist mildew. Make sure that your base color paint looks good with your top color. A simple way to do this is to pick 2 colors from the same color family (i.e. different shades of red). Alternatively, pick 2 colors that are next to each other on the color wheel, like green and blue. The base coat can either be lighter or darker than the top color. If your base color is lighter than your top color, the 2 colors will look more blended. If your base color is darker, the top color will appear to be floating off of it. This is a lovely look but also shows flaws in the painting more clearly. The tray is wide enough to fit a roller and so will be useful when you roll the walls. Refill the paint tray as needed as you paint. Paint where the walls meet each other, the floor, the ceiling, and wood trim. Although you will apply most of the base color paint with a roller, the roller can't get into the tight corners, so you have to get into those little spaces with a paintbrush. A flat-tipped, 2 in (5 cm) polyester paint brush should work great for getting into the small corners and along the trim. Hold the roller at an angle to the wall, and apply slight pressure. Roll up and down, from floor to ceiling. Move to the side about three-quarters of a roller width each time, so you're always slightly overlapping the previous roll. Remember to only paint the regular walls of the bathroom. Do not paint any tile or concrete. Do not reload the roller with paint for this stage. Simply roll the roller up and down over the wall with very light pressure. This will smooth out any roller marks or paint build-up, leaving your base coat looking beautiful. Weather can affect drying time. If it's humid, let your base coat dry for an extra day after the first night of drying.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Apply painter's tape Make sure your bathroom is well ventilated. Apply primer, if needed. Select mildew-resistant paint for the base and latex glaze for the sponge coat. Pour some of the base coat paint into a paint tray. Use a paintbrush to apply the paint to the edges of the walls. Dip a paint roller into the base color and roll onto the bathroom walls. Smooth out roller marks with an unloaded roller. Let the base color dry overnight or until the paint is no longer tacky.

Q: For this method, you will need an empty cylindrical container, electrical tape or masking tape, construction paper, crayons or colored pencils (optional), two pencils (optional), and tissue paper (optional). For the container, you can use a coffee container, a popcorn tin, or an aluminum can. This is going to be the base of the drum, so look for a container that is clean and in good condition. This is going to form the top of the drum, which needs to be sturdy and firm. Try to put at least one to three layers of tape on the top of the can and criss-cross the tape tightly to make the drum more durable. he can. Then, cut the construction paper so it will fit around the container snugly. Tape the paper in place and trim away the excess paper. Or, let your little one decorate the drum using markers, crayons, or paint. You can also cut out shapes from other construction paper and attach them onto the side of the drum. Crumple up a piece of tissue paper on the end of a pencil. Wrap masking tape or electrical tape around the tissue ball so it is secured to the pencil. Repeat this method on another pencil. Now it is time to have some fun with your drum or let your toddler play with it to make sure it will withstand a drumming session.
A:
Gather your materials. Criss-cross strips of tape over the top of the container until it is completely covered. the paper by wrapping it around the can. Decorate the drum. Make a pair of drumsticks. Test the drum.