Shut off the electricity to the circuit you are modifying. Double check with a multimeter or a current tester at the closest outlet where you plan to connect the wires. Try to work during the day so there's natural light. If there's enough natural light, turn off the main circuit so there's no power on at all. If you can't work during the day or there's not enough natural light, make sure there's no power or lights on in the area you're working in. Check for studs at the location where you want the wire to exit. Confirm there are no crossbeams or ductwork along the path the wire will take (typically straight up to the attic, or straight down to the basement). Ideally, use a stud finder that can tell the difference between studs, pipes, and other obstacles. Failing that, locate studs with magnets, or knock on the wall listening for hollow sounds. You can also refer to the blueprints of the space if you have them. If there is any uncertainty, drill a small test hole and explore with a bent wire coat hanger. Avoid locations with another electrical outlet less than two studs away. Stay away from exterior walls, which typically contain braces and insulation. Check the attic, basement, and/or crawlspace to confirm you have a clear path to thread the wire. You can often find a 2 x 4 or larger beam (the top or bottom plate) running along the wall, and measure along it to find the correct spot. If there is no beam, locate the wall using one of these methods: Look for a row of nails in the subfloor, or a pair of joists very close together. Find a feature visible from both sides, such as a vent. Measure from there to the location you chose, then measure the same distance on the other floor. If all else fails, drill a small test hole from the main floor to the attic or basement. Thread a pipe cleaner or similar object through and locate it on the other side. Return to the main floor and cut out a piece of drywall where the wire will exit: If installing an electrical box, trace the outline onto the drywall to get the exact dimensions. Otherwise, just draw a rectangle. Drill two holes in opposite corners of the rectangle. Slowly cut along the outline from one hole to the other, using a keyhole saw. If you need to patch the hole afterward, cut at an inward slant and remove it in one piece. Return to the attic or basement, and drill through the wall plate where you want to guide the wire through. You may encounter nails, so choose an auger drill bit, which won't get damaged by metal. If you're working in a crawlspace, you can use a flex bit drill to drill this hole from several feet away. Keep the hole at least 1" from the edge of the wood. If this does not allow for a hole large enough to insert your wires, separate the wires and insert them through separate, smaller holes, spaced a reasonable distance apart.

Summary: Turn off the power. Confirm the space is free. Locate the same spot from above or below. Cut through the drywall. Drill through on the other side.

It is usually found in spools online. A 200-foot (60.96-meter) spool will give your three medium-sized baskets. Because it is hard to join two pieces of rope together, it is better to have too much rope than not enough. Fold the end of the rope under itself, then roll it in a spiral to form a small disk that is about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) across. This will create the foundation of your basket. Choose the largest stitch length possible on your sewing machine, then set the stitch to a zigzag. Sew straight across the disk, rotate it 90 degrees, then sew back across it, forming an X. Turn the disk so that the rest of the rope is in front of the sewing machine. Hold the rope against the side of the disk, then slide the disk under the presser foot. Make sure that the center of the foot is in the groove between the two coils. You can use a thread color that matches your rope, or you can use a contrasting color to make it look more interesting. The needle should be going back and forth across the groove, catching onto both coils of rope. This is what will hold the basket together. Keep going until the basket is the width you want it to be. Avoid making your basket too wide using this method. The wider it is, the more difficult it will be to sew. Something around 8 inches (20.32 centimeters) across would be ideal. Grab hold of the disk, and turn it so that it is resting vertically against the side of the sewing machine. Continue sewing your way across the coils, using the same zigzag stitch as before, until your basket it the height you want it to be. Consider changing the color of your thread every couple of rows for an interesting, banded effect. At this point, your basket is just about complete. You can click here to learn how to finish your basket, or you can keep reading to learn how to add handles. When your basket is the height you want it to be, stop sewing, and backstitch back and forth a few times. Cut the thread and tie it off. Tug the rope up to loosen it and create a loop. Move forward a few inches/centimeters, and start sewing again; remember to backstitch a few times before you continue sewing around the basket. Make sure that the loop you make is big enough for you to slip your hand through. Keep sewing your basket as you did previously until you are directly across from the first handle. Backstitch a few times, then cut and tie the thread. Pull the rope up, move forward a few inches, and start sewing again. Once again, backstitch a few times at your new starting point. When you get to the start of the first handle, you can choose to finish your basket. You can also keep sewing across the handles for 1 to 2 more rows to make them thicker and stronger. Cut the rope down to 1 inch (2.54 centimeters). Tuck it into the basket, and backstitch across it a few times. Cut the thread off, and tie it into a tight knot.

Summary: Get some 7/32-inch (0.56-centimeter) thick 100% cotton clothesline. Twist the end of the rope to form a coin-sized disk. Stitch across the top of the disk using your sewing machine to form an X. Orient your work properly. Start sewing, turning the disk counterclockwise as you feed the rope towards the presser foot. Turn the disk so that it is perpendicular to the sewing machine, and start building up the sides of the basket. Start shaping the first handle. Add the second handle. Finish the basket.

It's a red square with a white triangle inside. You'll usually find it on the home screen. It's at the bottom-right corner of the app. It's near the top of the screen. If you've uploaded many videos, it may be hard to find. Type some keywords into the search bar at the top of the screen to narrow down the list. A menu will expand. It's near the center of the menu. These are the first two blanks at the top of the "Edit details" screen. Tap the current privacy setting under "Privacy" to open the drop-down menu, then tap your selection. Type tags into the "Tags" box near the bottom of the screen. It's at the top-right corner of the screen. These settings will update immediately.
Summary: Open YouTube on your iPhone or iPad. Tap Library. Tap My videos. Scroll to the video. Tap next to the video's name. Tap Edit. Edit the title and description. Edit your privacy settings. Edit your tags. Tap SAVE.