Article: Before you can create a solid financial plan, you need to be clear about your goals. Common financial goals include: planning for retirement, paying for education, purchasing a home, creating an inheritance for beneficiaries, or developing a financial "safety net" to guard against unexpected expenses, disasters, or life changes. You can find templates for worksheets to help define your financial goals by searching online. Ensure your goals adhere to the SMART acronym. That is to say, specific, measurable, attainable, realistic and timely. For example, you may not be saving any money and your goal is to save more. Changing this goal to save 5% of your monthly income is not only specific, but it is also measurable (you can easily tell when you have achieved it or not), and likely attainable in a reasonable time frame. Write your goals down. This not only ensures you will remember them, but it keeps you accountable. A good system is to write short, medium, and long-term goals. For a financial plan to be successful, it is essential to quantify your goals. That is to say, take a specific goal, and translate it into a dollar figure. For example, a common financial goal is retire by 60 or 65. Although it is often stated that 70-80% of current income is a reasonable goal for retirement income, others have suggested 50-60% of income for couples, and 60-70% for singles is more reasonable. If you are currently making $80,000 per year and are single, your retirement income should be around $40,000 per year using the 50% figure above. This would be an example of translating a goal (retire by 65), into a specific dollar figure ($50,000 per year of income). Once this amount is known, it is possible to create a plan to determine how much money saved and/or invested you will need to supplement your other sources of retirement income to hit the $50,000 year mark. You can find templates online to help you calculate your needs for retirement and other goals.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Determine what your key personal and financial goals are. Be accurate in your goals you want to accomplish. Determine how much you will need to achieve your main goals.

Problem: Article: This should include, earrings, wrist cuffs, bracelets, armbands, anklets and rings. Gold pieces will work the best, because there was an abundance of it in ancient Egypt. Copper may work as well. Don't forget to add gems or stones, such as turquoise, emeralds, obsidian, onyx, and rock crystal. Pearls were also common as they were native to Egypt. Avoid wearing silver, as it was not available in ancient Egypt. Ancient Egyptians often wore these items for either protection or power. Amulets contained carved images of animals, gods, solar deities, other humans and a variety of other figures. One of the most popular symbols was the ankh, which looks like a T with a loop on top. One of the most recognizable aspects of ancient Egyptian wear is the adornment of sewn together beads, stones and metals which draped over the shoulders, collarbone and upper back. You can find them at many artifact and antique stores or can be handmade with customized amulets and charms. Collars made from precious metals and stones were reserved for the upper classes and royalty. Collars made from shells, wood and bone were often made by the lower or working classes.
Summary: Wear an abundance of jewelry. Wear amulets and charms. Wear a wide collar necklace.

It won't be a good day if you singe off your eyebrows and get third-degree burns on your hands, so turn off your car and let it cool down before you open up the hood and get to work. Let it sit for at least an hour before you start dissecting its parts. It's not a dumb idea to protect yourself with goggles or gloves, either. If you don't want anything getting in your eyes or your hands getting covered in gunk, get out the protective gear. And, of course, a shirt you don't mind smudging with grease or oil. The thermostat and radiator hose are linked to your car's cooling system; if you don't drain out the coolant, you're gonna get water everywhere when you start disassembling. Here's how: Place a bucket (or some sort of container) underneath your radiator. You'll have somewhere between 4 to 8 cups of fluid pouring out, so don't skimp on the size of your container. At the bottom of the radiator, there should be a draining screw or cap (technically, it's a radiator drain cock). Twist this to the left, opening it up. Let all the water and coolant flow out. Keep the cap somewhere you won't lose it. Every model of car is different. Some thermostats you could spot from a mile away, others will be an obstacle to even the most trained of eyes. If looking at your car's engine is like reading gibberish, find the radiator hose and follow it to the end -- that'll be where your thermostat is located. The body of the thermostat is probably metal with a bit of gold in the center and possible a rubber ring around the edges. It resembles a top or dreidel in shape and size, or, a small plunger. If you're not quite sure what you're doing, consult your manual or look up the location online. It's better to know what you're looking for instead of poking around and possibly injuring yourself. The hose is most likely clamped to the thermostat casing. Unscrew this and set it aside. Move onto the thermostat casing, exposing the thermostat itself. You will definitely need a screwdriver, and you may need pliers, for the record. Most vehicles have a two-bolt or three-bolt system for the thermostat casing. If corrosion and gunk is building up prominently, clean up the area before you go about adding your new thermostat. A bit of water will probably come out with removal of the hose. This is normal. Is it possible that your thermostat works, it's just stuck closed or a different part of your vehicle is starting to kick the bucket, affecting your thermostat's ability to make accurate readings? If so, it's very easy to test your thermostat. Here's how: Get a pot of water boiling. Insert your thermostat. The thermostat should open at around 190 F (88 C). Since water boils at 212F (100C), this is more than enough. If the thermostat doesn't open in the water (and then close when it cools), you need a new one. From here on out, it's mainly a matter of reassembly -- the easy stuff. Replace your thermostat just like it the old one was positioned. If applicable, replace the rubber ring, too, sealing the edges. If the area is building up dirt and grime, wipe it down with some cleaner first. You want to maximize the life of your thermostat and not have to deal with this again anytime soon. You remember what everything looked like, right? Here's a brief checklist: Make sure the thermostat is snug and in place. Bolt down the thermostat casing over top of the thermostat. Finger start your bolt and then bust out your pliers or socket wrench and get to tightening. Be careful not to strip the bolts. Replace the radiator hose and clamp. The radiator should be snug on the outside of the thermostat casing and the clamp must be well-tightened. If the coolant you just drained out was fairly new, just use the same stuff in the bucket and add it back in. If it was old, you may be better off throwing the contents of the bucket out and just using new coolant. Either way, replace the coolant and make sure the radiator drain cock is on tight. Once replaced, check for leaks. Your car needs coolant to operate safely. If yours is leaking, you literally won't get very far. You're done! Now all you have to do is keep an eye on your temperature gauge. If it's acting up, do a double check to make sure you secured everything appropriately. If so, you may need to consult a mechanic -- the problem probably lies elsewhere.
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One-sentence summary --
Make sure your car has cooled down. Drain the antifreeze out of your car. Locate your thermostat. Remove the radiator hose and take apart the thermostat casing. If desired, test your thermostat. Swap out your old thermostat for the new one. Reassemble the system. Replace the coolant and check for leaks. Get back on the roads.