Problem: Article: Skunks are scavengers, so they'll eat anything nutritious they can find. If you have trees that produce nuts, berries, crabapples, or other fruits, clean them up by raking your yard as often as necessary. Other vegetation, like piles of grass clippings, should also be discarded, since it may contain seeds or other sources of food for skunks. If you have a garden, harvest ripe fruit and vegetables as soon as you can, to prevent a hungry skunk from feasting on them. Use a tray under your bird feeder to catch most of the seeds, and clean up stray seeds dropped by birds often. Similarly to raccoons and other stray animals, skunks can survive on garbage alone. It's important to keep your trash cans properly sealed. Sometimes regular garbage cans simply won't do. To defend against scavenging animals, you can buy locking garbage cans at a fairly cheap price at your local home improvement store. If possible, store your trash bins in a shed or in your garage at night, so their smell doesn't attract skunks. Use an enclosed compost bin, since skunks like to eat old fruit and vegetable peels, eggshells, and other items that you may be composting. Skunks like to make their homes under decks, porches, and in other sheltered areas. Close off spaces that may be appealing to skunks using rocks, fencing, or plywood. Log piles and piles of lumber or building materials can serve as shelters for skunks. Store the materials in a shed or bin to prevent skunks from moving in. Large bushes are also good shelters for skunks. If you see skunks hanging out in bushes or low vegetation, you might want to trim back the branches so it's not quite as appealing.
Summary: Remove nuts, berries, and other natural food sources. Protect your waste. Close off hiding places.

Problem: Article: Grab the bottom of it on the inside, and pull the gasket back. You want to be able to see the metal gasket retainer. You should use the hex head nut screwdriver to do this. Lift the edges of the seal to find the screws underneath that are holding in the plastic liner and door seal. Often, the screws hold in a plastic liner, which in turn clamps the door seal to the door. Once all of the screws are loose, the door seal should easily slide out from behind the plastic liner. Don't be too forceful when doing this step, since some plastic liners can be quite brittle and crumble if you are too rough. Position one of its corners on the top of the refrigerator door. Push the lip of the new gasket over the metal retainer, and slide it behind the metal retainer and around the entire perimeter of the refrigerator door. The best method is to start in the top corners, and work your way around the door. You don't want to tighten the gasket retainer screws all the way. You want them to be snug. Use a bit of baby powder or talcum powder to prevent sticking. This will help to prevent the door seal from twisting as it meets the metal of the fridge. You are looking for any warped areas of the gasket. Repeat this process several times. Once the gasket looks like it is properly fitted, tighten the screws more. Alternatively, you can heat the door seal up with a hair dryer to fix the gaps. This softens the door seal and allows you to stretch it.
Summary: Remove the gasket from the refrigerator door. Loosen, but do not remove, the screws that hold the metal retainer around the entire door. Pull the gasket out of the door to remove it once you have loosened the retainer screws. Take the new gasket, and install it. Use the hex head driver to screw the metal retainer in. Apply powder. Rub some powder around the hinge side corners of the door seal and where the seal slides. If this still doesn't prevent twisting, then wedge a screwdriver under the seal as you close the door, and leave it shut for an hour. Close the refrigerator door, and open it several times to inspect the gasket. Rub petroleum jelly along the hinged side of the door if you see some gaps.

Problem: Article: This will ensure you get the best results. Check that the egg is not cracked or misshapen. If the egg is dirty, use room temperature water to carefully wash off the dirt on the egg. If you find the egg, try to guess how long since it has been laid. If it is warm to the touch, it may have been laid within one to three days. Make sure the egg is at room temperature before you put it in the incubator. An egg that has been kept in the fridge will need to be left out to warm up before it goes in the incubator. You may mark the top of the egg with an "x" and the bottom of the egg (the small end) with an "o." This way, when you turn the egg, you can keep track of how often it is turned. Close the doors of the incubator once the egg is inside. This will keep the humidity inside the incubator. It takes around 26 to 29 days total for Mallard duck eggs to hatch. From day 1 to day 25, the temperature in the incubator should be 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit (37.5 degrees Celsius). The relative humidity should be 86 degrees Fahrenheit (55%). On the first day of incubation, check the incubator regularly to ensure it is at the right temperature and humidity. The first few days are crucial for proper incubation. Turning the eggs is a key step in the incubation process. Use your hand to turn the egg so it is on a different side. Then, wait a few hours and turn the egg so it is on its other side. Do this three to seven times a day to keep the eggs at the right temperature. The more often you turn the egg, the better it will hatch. Get into the habit of turning it an odd number of times each day for the 25 days of incubation. You may write down the times you turn the egg in a log for reference. Do not leave the eggs in the same position every night. Try to turn them during the night or right before you go to bed. Touch the top of the egg with a small bright flashlight. This is called "candling the egg." Use the flashlight to check if the egg is growing and progressing. It should not appear clear or cloudy when you touch the flashlight to the top of it. If this is the case, it may not be progressing well. Check the temperature and humidity in the incubator to ensure it is correct. If the egg looks solid in the light, it is fertile and doing well. You can candle the egg again at the end of week 3 of the incubation to make sure it is still growing properly. Put the egg in a hatching tray. Adjust the temperature of the incubator to 99 degrees Fahrenheit (37.2 degrees Celsius). The humidity should be set to 88 degrees Fahrenheit (65%). Make sure the ventilation holes on the incubator are open to their maximum setting to allow the eggs to cool. At day 26 and 27, increase the humidity to 93 degrees Fahrenheit (80%). At day 28 and 29, lower the temperature so it is at 97 degrees Fahrenheit (36.1 degrees Celsius) and the humidity is at 90 degrees Fahrenheit (70%). You do not need to help the duckling emerge from the egg. Let the duckling hatch itself by breaking through the shell on its own. If the ducking makes a hole in the egg and cannot progress because it gets stuck, carefully help the duckling out with clean hands.
Summary:
Use an egg that has been laid within one to three days. Place the egg small end down in the incubator. Maintain the correct temperature and humidity in the incubator. Turn the egg three to seven times a day. Candle the egg with a flashlight after seven days. Lower the temperature on day 25 for hatching. Let the duckling hatch on its own.