The recipient of the forwarded message will be able to see the names and email addresses of anyone else who was involved in the original email thread and depending on the situation, it might be most respectful to those people if you remove their emails from the forward. You don't need to change anything, depending on the context, but you might consider lightly editing the text or structure of the message that you're passing along. Take this opportunity to delete any parts of the forwarded message that you don't want your recipients to see. Once the email has been sent, you can't take it back! Look for the following things: Carats (the bulky <<<>>> chains that can build up in a much-forwarded e-mail) Mechanical errors: unnecessary extra lines/spaces; grammatical and spelling errors. Attachments that are copies of the e-mail that you are forwarding. This is a waste of bandwidth and a golden opportunity for spammers/virus spreaders. Banners that companies place at the bottom of your e-mails. These might read something like, "Free emoticons for your email!" or "make free pc to phone calls with ----" In a long email thread, there is information left over from the people who got the message before you: specifically, their names and email addresses. As the messages get forwarded along, the list of addresses grows and grows. All it takes is for some poor friend to get a virus, and his/her computer can send that virus to every email address that has come across his computer. Someone might even take all of those addresses and sell them or send junk mail or even try to apply for a credit card in your name!

Summary: Consider deleting the prior email addresses. Clean up the forwarded email. Be aware of the consequences.

Keep in mind that puppies 12 weeks or under do not have full control of their bladder or bowels. Even if they wanted to "hold-it" they simply cannot do that, so do not harshly reprimand them when they eliminate in your house. Most puppies are not fully house trained until they are six months old, and in some cases even older than that. When house training your pup, it is important to keep a positive attitude even when you encounter an accident. Puppies can generally only hold their waste in for the number of months they are old. So if your puppy is four months old, he should not be left without access to the outside for longer than four hours. It is different at night, as puppies shut down the way we do at night. By the time your puppy is four months old, he should be able to go the entire night without needing to go potty. As you may be able to guess, a big part of when a puppy goes potty is when it is fed. In order to speed up the house training process, establish a regular feeding schedule and stick with it. Unless advised by a vet, do not "free feed" (leaving a filled food bowl out at all times.) Free feeding will give your puppy a random elimination cycle (when she pees or poops) and will not establish you as the provider of the food (which is important in teaching your puppy that you are the pack leader and in charge.) Do not feed your puppy anything in between meals. Puppies should be offered the opportunity to potty every 30 - 45 minutes. You should create a consistent schedule for when you take your puppy out. Puppies should be taken out every hour, as well as shortly after meals, naps, and playtime. You should always take your puppy out first thing in the morning, before you and the puppy go to bed at night, and before you leave the puppy alone for any extended period of time. Give your puppy a treat and verbally praise it when it pees or poops outside. Try to bring your puppy to the same spot each time to teach her that this is where she is meant to go potty. When you bring her to the spot, say "go potty" and wait for her to go. Bringing the puppy to the same spot will help it associate the smells of the spot with going potty. Smells can often prompt a puppy to eliminate. Stay with your puppy outside while it is potty training so you can immediately praise it when she goes potty. Keep in mind that some puppies will go potty as soon as your take them outside, while others may need to sniff around or play a bit before they can eliminate. Common signs are sniffing, circling, whining, leaving the room and pacing. Take your puppy outside as soon as possible when you see these signs. You must watch your puppy carefully. If you see your puppy begin to eliminate in an inappropriate spot indoors, clap twice sharply. Your clapping will startle your pup, stopping it in midstream. Quickly run with your puppy outside, either by leading it with its collar, or encouraging it to run beside you. Once outside, keep the puppy in one place and allow it to eliminate. When it does, verbally praise it and give it a treat. If the puppy doesn't have anything to eliminate, don't worry, just make sure to try to be there the next time it does so that you can bring it outside. Don't scold the puppy and never rub its nose in an accident. Just clean up the mess and try to get the puppy outside next time. This is especially important to do when you are not home. Choose a crate or area that you can block off with a pen or baby gate and 'puppy proof' the area. Lay down newspapers and put its bed, toys, water and food bowls in the space. Over the course of a few weeks, you will notice that your puppy begins to pee or poop in one particular spot in the area. You can begin reducing the amount of newspaper you use in the space, so that eventually only the place the puppy has designated as her elimination spot is covered with newspaper. You will then be able to slowly start moving the newspaper to other locations closer and closer to the outside door and the puppy will continue to eliminate on them. If your puppy eliminates somewhere other than the designated spot, you may have reduced the amount of newspaper too much, or moved the newspaper away from the original spot too quickly. Potty training a puppy takes a long time, just remember to be patient. Praise your puppy when it eliminates in the designated spot. If your puppy has an accident but you do not catch her in the act, you should not reprimand her. She will not understand why you are reprimanding her for something she did an hour ago. If you do catch her right after she has had an accident, hold her near the accident and firmly say "no." When your puppy has become generally reliable in using its 'potty area', you can begin to let the puppy explore more of your house. Its best to open the house up to your puppy one room at a time. Only do this when your puppy can be supervised--any time your puppy cannot be supervised, but her back in her 'den.' Put your puppy on a leash when it is exploring a new room. It is much more difficult for your puppy to get into trouble when you are attached to the other end of the leash.

Summary: Begin house training when you bring the puppy home. Keep in mind the hour to month rule. Establish a regular feeding schedule. Take your puppy outside consistently. Praise your puppy whenever it eliminates outside. Watch your puppy for signs that it may need to potty. Create a 'den' for your puppy. Open up the rest of the house to your pup.

Blanching is the process of boiling something for a short period of time and then plunging it into an ice bath. The boiling will loosen the tomato skins, and the ice bath will stop the cooking process. Fill a pot with water and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat. Use a small pot if you're just peeling a few tomatoes, and a larger pot if you have many tomatoes to peel. The blanching method is very effective, and it works well when you have to peel many tomatoes. Fill a bowl halfway with ice, and then fill it the rest of the way with water. Place the ice bath near the stove, so the tomatoes won't have far to go when you remove them from the boiling water. A small bowl of ice water will do if you're just peeling a few tomatoes. For larger batches of tomatoes, use a larger bowl filled with ice and water.
Summary: Boil a pot of water. Prepare the ice bath.