In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Sanded grout has been mixed with fine sand, which helps keep it in place across the entire joint instead of shrinking. Choose sanded grout when filling gaps inch (3.2 millimeters) or wider. Sanded grout is not ideal for narrow lines, as the sand can take up too much of the width and weaken the structure. Non-sanded grout, also called "unsanded" or "wall grout," is typically recommended for lines under " (3.2 mm) wide, but some prefer to reserve non-sanded grout for lines 1/16" (1.6 mm) or smaller. Non-sanded grout will shrink significantly as it dries, but the more narrow the line, the less noticeable this is. This grout is also stickier and easier to work with than sanded grout, especially on vertical surfaces. If you are applying the grout to polished stone, test sanded grout on an inconspicuous corner first to check for scratching from sand particles. If the stone does end up scratched, use non-sanded grout instead. If the grout joints are considerably larger than " (3.2 mm) wide, consider epoxy grout instead. Highly reflective polished stone is more likely to be scratched than honed stone, with a matte appearance. Epoxy grout resists grease, acid, and wear much better than ordinary grout, and can substitute for either sanded or unsanded grout. It provides serious protection for kitchen countertops or other areas with high spill risk, but dries much faster and is much harder to apply than other forms of grout. It also tends to be considerably more expensive. It's usually only needed in commercial kitchens, such as the ones in restaurants. Epoxy grout can discolor some porous, unglazed, stone materials. Seal the stone first before you apply the epoxy grout. Caulk creates a more flexible seal. Use it instead of grout when filling the gap between a wall and a floor, or another joint between two different planes. If you're concerned about matching throughout, you can also purchase either sanded or unsanded grout caulk, which is a mixture of the two. The safest choice is an unobtrusive grout that matches the material you'll be joining, but you can try for a striking contrast if you're certain you like the look. Because white grout turns dirty yellow or off-white over time, light grey or light brown are generally better options, especially in humid or wet environments. If you do not plan on sealing your grout, a darker grout may be a better option. Dust from black, green, and red grout tends to be more difficult to clean off surrounding materials, so make sure to wipe the excess grout away thoroughly if you choose one of these colors.
Summary: Use sanded grout for wider grout lines. Use non-sanded grout for narrow lines. Be cautious when treating polished stone. Use epoxy grout only for high-risk areas. Use caulk to join surfaces at an angle. Choose a color.

Problem: Article: You can find adjustable dog jumps used in agility courses online or at your local pet store. When you're just starting out, set the bar at ground level or at the lowest available setting. You'll start training by just having your dog walk over the jump bar. If you don't want to purchase an adjustable jump, you can easily make your own. Place a plywood board over two cinder blocks, or other sturdy, flat objects. Add more blocks to increase the jump's height when you're ready to increase difficulty. Look for fallen logs, low walls, or even small creeks nearby that you can use as free obstacles. Make sure the area is safe and stable before bringing your dog there so that they don't get hurt. Have your dog sit on one side of the jump bar, and place a treat on the floor on the opposite side. Tell your dog "Go get it!" or any other command (like "Okay!" or "Go!") you've taught it that lets it know it should get the treat. If necessary, guide your dog over the bar to get the treat. The treat should be on the floor instead of held high in the air so your dog will get used to looking down and forward as it goes over the bar. This will help it learn to round its back when it actually jumps over the bar, which is better for its spine. If your dog walks around the jump instead of over it to get the treat, set it up with one side against a wall. Place an obstacle, such as furniture, on the other side. Keep having your dog step over the jump bar so it gets comfortable with the object. If you start by having it jump right away, it might accidentally knock over the bar. If that happens and it gets hurt or startled, you'll have a hard time getting your dog to go near the obstacle. Keep practicing for about 20 minutes at least once a day. Remember to give your dog lots of verbal praise to show it how proud it's made you. Once your dog is comfortable stepping over the bar, raise it to the next setting or add another set of cinder blocks. Ideally, at this next phase, your dog should just have to put a little more spring into its step to get over the bar and get the treat. When it's mastered this stage, increase the height so it has to complete a full jump to get the treat. Like bar jumping, the key to teaching your dog to jump through a hoop is to raise the obstacle gradually. Start by having your dog walk through the hoop to get a treat so it gets comfortable with the object. Raise the hoop so it has to step a little more energetically, then gradually work your way up to a full jump.
Summary:
Use an adjustable jump. Create your jump with cinder blocks and plywood. Use natural outdoor obstacles as jumps. Set down a treat on the far side of the jump. Practice at the lowest level until your dog is comfortable. Raise the bar gradually. Use the same method to teach your dog to jump through hoops.