Article: Slide the steel strapping under the load, then bring up both ends around either side. Overlap the ends, making sure that the end that is closest to your body is on top. Adjust the strapping to center it around the load. These pieces extend toward the back of the tool. Grip them both together to lift up the gripper on the front left side of the tool. Leave about 5in (13cm) of excess strap at the front of the tool so you have enough strapping to secure later. Release the tension lever to let the gripper fall and hold the straps in place. Keep ratcheting until you achieve the desired level of tension. The steel strapping should feel tight and secure around the load, but it should not be tight enough to cut into the edges. If the ratchet lever is in the upward position when you finish ratcheting, you'll need to reposition it. Push the handle pull (located at the front of the tool) forward and gently bring the tension lever back down. The seal should sit on the strapping, flat side facing up. Adjust it until its 2 bent sides wrap around the straps. Leave about 3 to 4in (7.6 to 10.2cm) of the top strap in front of the seal to help ensure that strap won't slip through the seal. Spread the handles of the sealing tool's completely apart and place the nose of the tool directly over the seal. Press the handles in to meet each other, clamping the seal into place. This will crimp down the top of the seal and press the bent sides upward. Spread the handles apart once again and remove the sealing tool. Lift the top strap up, away from the bottom strap, and use a cutter to trim off the excess. Watch out for flying pieces, since steel tends to snap off forcefully. Leave about 2 to 3in (5.1 to 7.6cm) of top strap, and throw away the trimmed end. Keeping a few inches of strap, rather than cutting right next to the seal, will help ensure it stays secure and taut. This will lift the gripper and allow you to slide the tensioner tool off to the right. Now your straps will be secure and ready to hold the load in place!
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Circle the strapping around your load and overlap the ends on top. Squeeze the tensioner's tension lever and the base handle together. Place both layers of strapping under the gripper. Move the tension lever back and forth to tighten the strapping. Place a seal over both layers of strapping in front of the tensioner. Open up the sealing tool and press it around the seal. Cut the excess top strapping with a cutter tool. Squeeze the tensioner's tension lever and base handle to release it.

Problem: Article: You can be serious or silly, dramatic or loose, but no matter what you need to fit your entire head in the shot. Getting the upper halves of your shoulders provides nice framing and puts everything in perspective -- floating heads come off as a little unsettling. If your friend is taking photos, check them every so often to make sure they're capturing the right things. Digital cameras have made head-shots far more affordable and easy for the budding thespian. There is rarely a limit on the number of photos you can take, but you'll need to variety to choose from. This is the one photo that is supposed to represent you, and you'll want a large collection of subtly different shots to choose from. Hold each pose for at least 2-3 photos. That way, if you happen to blink in one, you'll always have a few extras. If a pose doesn't feel comfortable, or "like you," then skip it. Genuine smiles and emotion will always translate better in the camera. For your headshot, you want to look right in the camera. But you also want to act natural, trying your best to act like there is no camera at all. While everyone has a different way of "warming up" to the camera, you can try to: Close your eyes, take a deep breath, and then open them with your big smile. Often this moment, right when you break out in a smile, is the most natural. Have a trusty, funny friend helping out. If they're yelling out jokes, poses, or ideas, it takes pressure off of you to think of something and perform at the same time. Move through emotions slowly. Don't try and force them. Instead, let your face change slowly. Subtly change your smile (which lip is higher, open or closed lips, etc.) and head angle, tilting it slightly up and down to see what looks best for you. Where you position the camera will subtly change your look. In all cases, the camera is shooting you almost entirely head-on, as if lined up with your nose. How you carefully deviate from "dead-center," can change the shot. For example: Putting the camera below your face and pointing up makes you seem bigger, stronger, and more masculine. Putting the camera slightly above your face and angling down makes you seem softer, more tender, and "quieter." It is often more feminine, but guys showing their softer side use it too. Putting the camera to either side gives you a slightly dramatic, theatrical look. Don't overdo it, however -- you should still be able to see at least 95% of your face. Don't just assume they all look good (or worse, assume they look terrible) without looking. The easiest time to retake photos is right now, so run through them with a trusty friend to see if you have enough strong material. If you're really dedicated, change your outfit and take another set. You'll already be "warmed up" to the camera, and everything is set up.
Summary: Make sure your entire head and upper shoulders fit in the frame. Take both serious and smiling shots, taking far more than you think you need. Ignore the camera as much as possible, even as you look right at it. Think about camera angle to help determine the "mood" of the shot. Review the photos periodically to find looks you like or shots you might re-take.

There should be at least 3ft (910mm) between the candle flame and the surface above it. If burning multiple candles, place them at least 3in (76mm) apart from each other. This prevents the candles from creating their own drafts. Flammable items include: hair, clothing, decorations, books, paper, carpet, furniture, bedding, or curtains. Tie up any drapes or curtains, and remove any excess fabric. Make sure the candle holder you use is designed for the particular candle style and large enough to collect molten wax. Always place your candle on a heat-resistant surface. You can also use a non-flammable hurricane glass. Do not put your candle under an open window. Drafts or gusts of wind can potentially carry the flame and start a fire. If your candle is near an open window, close the window or move the candle. If your candle is in a drafty spot, relocate your candle somewhere without any drafts. Children or pets can accidentally hit the candle and create a fire. Candles, matches, and lighters should always be out of the reach of children or pets. You never want to leave a candle unattended. Staying within sight of the candle ensures that your property, your loved ones, and yourself are not in risk. It is helpful to inform others in your home when you are burning a candle. Always follow the candle manufacturer's recommendations on proper candle holders, burn times, and extinguishing. Do not exceed manufacturer suggestions. Make sure you read all of the directions on your candle before use. Every candle is different, and these are only guidelines for use. Smoke and fire detectors should be inspected annually to ensure they are working properly. Performing self-maintenance or professional reviews is important to make sure the devices are working properly to prevent any fires.
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One-sentence summary --
Place the candle in a well ventilated room. Remove your candle from anything flammable. Put your candle in a non-flammable candle holder. Check for any open windows or drafts. Place your candle away from the reach of children or pets. Keep your candle in sight at all times. Follow the candle manufacturer's suggestions. Perform routine fire detector tests.