It's possible that your parakeet might get loose during training, so close any doors and windows in the room before you begin. Turn off any electric fans or other hazardous devices, such as space heaters, and make sure there are no other pets in the room. It's also important for your parakeet to feel secure, so keep the room quiet and free of distractions during training. Before starting any interaction that might involve your parakeet coming out of its cage, make sure your bird's wings are properly clipped. The vet will gently wrap your parakeet in a hand towel or dry washcloth, pull out one of its wings, and carefully clip off the ends of the 6 or 7 long flight feathers at the end of each wing, starting at the tip of the wing. Then, they'll repeat the process with the other wing. Trim the flight feathers at least .25 inches (0.64cm) beneath the shorter feathers higher up on the wing. Take care not to cut into any "blood feathers," which are newly-formed feathers with a visible blood vessel running through them. When done correctly, wing clipping will not harm your bird or cause it any pain. This is simply a precaution to keep your parakeet from escaping or injuring itself by flying into a hazardous area. Your parakeet's clipped feathers will eventually grow back, so you'll need to repeat this process once every 6-10 weeks. Don't try to train your bird if it is hungry, tired, or irritable. It won't be able to focus on what you're teaching it, and it may develop unpleasant associations with training. Start working with your parakeet when it is awake and well-fed. If your parakeet is hopping around actively, chattering or whistling, and wagging or flipping its tail, it is probably feeling secure and happy. If your parakeet stands still and upright with its wings slightly extended away from its body, it may be afraid. Watch your parakeet for other signs of fear and aggression, such as hissing, snapping, and raising its wings. It's also important for you to feel calm and focused during training sessions. Don't try to train your bird if you're feeling tired, irritable, or frustrated. Come back and try again later, or take a few deep breaths to clear your head before you get started. If you tower over your parakeet, it may feel intimidated. When you approach the cage, crouch down if necessary so that your own eyes are only slightly above the parakeet's. Some bird owners believe that your bird will think you are being submissive if you get down below its eye level. Not all experts agree on this, however. Either way, stepping up will be most comfortable for you and your parakeet if you are positioned slightly higher than your bird. If your parakeet seems calm and alert, open the cage door and put your hand inside. Allow the parakeet to investigate your hand on its own, but don't grab at it or try to get it to step up just yet. If your parakeet acts nervous, don't immediately withdraw your hand from the cage. Keep your hand still and stay quiet until your bird figures out that nothing bad is going to happen and begins to calm down. If your parakeet feels secure enough, it may jump up on your hand on its own. Do this a few times a day for a few days, keeping your hand in the cage for about 15-20 minutes at a time. Move your hand closer to your parakeet each time you have a training session. Talk to your parakeet in a soothing, pleasant voice while your hand is in the cage. Once your parakeet has had a few days to get used to being near your hand, try offering it a treat. Put the treat in your hand and allow the parakeet to take it. Select a special treat that you only use for training purposes, such as millet, a small piece of fruit (such as apple, orange, or banana), or even a toy.
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One-sentence summary -- Create a safe environment for training. Have a veterinarian clip your parakeet's wings. Check that your parakeet is alert and calm. Approach the bird at slightly above eye level. Put your hand in the cage slowly and quietly. Let the parakeet take a treat from your hand.

Goldfish require particularly roomy living arrangements in order to stay healthy. While they are pretty small fish, they need larger tanks than you might expect. You can do better than a bowl. Despite the beauty of a goldfish suspended in a sphere of glass, most fishbowls simply don't provide enough room for their occupants. A single fancy goldfish can be kept in a 10 gallon (37.9L) tank, but bigger goldfish like comets need a tank of around 50 gallons (189.3L). If you are able to keep one goldfish from overthrowing your empire, and wish to allow them a friend with which to endure their captivity, you're going to need to increase the capacity of your fish tank (by roughly 10 gallon (37.9L)) for each additional fish. A 20 gallon (75.7L) is ideal for your first goldfish, and can ultimately hold 2-3 fancy goldfish. An ideal size would be 15 gallons (57L), but this depends on the amount of fish. Most goldfish favor a palace or castle ambiance. Shoot for somewhere in between. Gravel is a must, and plants are recommended. That said, your selection of decor, gravel, and plants must follow certain guidelines: Choose a goldfish appropriate gravel. Don't actually use pieces of gold, as these will likely be dangerously small. Goldfish are scavengers. They will pick up pieces of gravel and mess around with them just for fun. Use gravel that is made up of pieces that are too large for the fish to swallow. Definitely hook your goldfish up with ample rocks, caves, or plants. Goldfish like to adventure, and can easily be fooled into thinking they're not in a fish tank. Don't use wood. It looks spectacular, but will color your water and, depending on the type of wood, will dissolve. Be aware that some rocks and sea shells will affect the pH of the water. If you're adding stuff you find on the beach willy-nilly, you're going to need to be checking your pH frequently. Only put certain plants in your goldfish tank. Goldfish, interestingly, are pretty aggressive with plants. Some plants are better able to defend themselves: Try Vallisneria types, different Hygrophilas, Red Bacopa or even Ludwigia Arcuata. A filter is an absolutely necessary component of your fish tank. Filters operate according to flow rate, with certain filters designed for certain sized tanks, so make sure you get the right filter for a tank your size. There are two types to choose from. External filters rest on the exterior of your tank, while internal filters are submerged within the tank. Either type of filter can work for a goldfish tank. External filters are generally considered to be superior, as they have a greater capacity to store filtration materials and can accordingly clean water more thoroughly. . If you have a 20 gallon (75.7L) tank, shoot for a filter rated for 40 gallons (151.4L). You can use tap water to fill your tank, but you need to add conditioner to make it safe for your goldfish. At minimum, you need a conditioner that neutralizes chlorine and chloramine. Aside from removing any harmful chemicals in tap water with conditioner, you'll also need to make sure the water has the right pH level for gold fish, which is a slightly alkaline 7-7.5, ideally 7.2 pH. Use a pH test kit to periodically test your water, and adjust the pH if necessary. Take tank placement seriously. Do not place the tank near a window or any heating or cooling source. Do not allow sunlight to hit the tank directly. Also be sure the tank is set on something flat and extremely sturdy. You likely don't need a heater. The fish tank's water temperature should be between 60F (16C) and 72F (22C), so the ambient temperature of your living space should work.
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One-sentence summary --
Consider the size of your fish tank. Decorate your fish tank. Use a filtration system. Add conditioned water.