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Move the sink near the pipes. Secure the drain strainer in place with plumber's putty. Set the sink's tailpiece in a P-trap. Connect the P-trap to the drain pipe with PVC pipe. Secure the faucet to the sink with plumber's putty. Connect the faucet to the supply pipes with flexible supply lines. Turn the water on to get the sink working.
Set the sink in place to prepare for installation. Utility sinks are typically freestanding, so yours shouldn't need extra fitting. Position the faucet openings near the wall. If the floor is uneven, adjust the screws on the sink's legs until the sink appears level. Roll some putty in your hands to warm it up. Wrap the putty around the underside of the strainer's rim. Then push the strainer into the sink's hole. Under the sink, turn the strainer's nut clockwise with pliers to tighten it. Wipe away any excess putty that oozes from the strainer. First, use pliers to twist the nut on the P-trap counterclockwise. Remove the nut and the threaded flange, then slide them onto the sink's tailpiece. Attach the tailpiece to the P-trap, then tighten the nut to hold it in place. You'll need a pipe approximately 212in (6.4cm) long. You may also need to glue on a few fittings to reach the drain. Slip some plastic, ring-shaped compression nuts over the pipes and tighten them with pliers. Spread the putty under the base of the faucet. Set the faucet in the hole on the sink's rim and push it down to secure it. Wipe away any excess putty. Finish by sliding nuts onto the faucet from below the sink and tightening them. You'll need a pair of flexible, braided, stainless steel supply tubes. Connect a line to each of the tee fittings on the copper pipes. Twist the nuts with pliers to tighten the lines, then run the other ends through the faucet. Go back to the water supply valve and turn it on. Hot and cold water both should reach the sink. At last, your sink has running water!