Problem: Article: Many viral STIs, including genital herpes, can produce little red bumps, blisters, warts, or even open lesions on or around your genitals. These warts or bumps are typically accompanied by a painful itching or burning sensation. If you've recently had oral or anal intercourse and are concerned about an oral or anal STI, also inspect your lips and mouth, and your buttocks and anal area for warts or bumps. Herpes can stay dormant in your body for prolonged periods of time. Subsequent herpes outbreaks tend to be less painful than the initial outbreak. Infected individuals can have frequent outbreaks for decades. Although oral herpes can be contracted on the genitals (or in the genital region), it's typically dormant after the initial outbreak. Fleshy, raised patches of skin or warts in the genital or oral areas can be a sign of genital warts or Human papillomavirus (HPV). HPV is a serious STI, but can be difficult to detect. Certain strains are accompanied by gray swellings on the genitals, which can clump together and take on a cauliflower-like appearance. Genital warts, while not a particularly serious STI, are uncomfortable and often itchy. Certain strains of HPV can increase a woman's risk of developing cervical cancer. If you're concerned about HPV, speak with your doctor or gynecologist about frequent screenings or gynecological visits to monitor the virus. Although these are general, nonspecific symptoms, they can all be signs of two serious viral STIs: strains of hepatitis, or early HIV. Early HIV can also cause your lymph nodes to swell, and can produce a rash. Individuals infected with hepatitis (which damages your liver) often also experience lower abdominal pain and dark urine. Strains of hepatitis and HIV can be transmitted without sexual contact. Either disease can be transmitted by contact with infected blood (or other bodily fluids), or by sharing intravenous needles.
Summary: Inspect your genital region for small warts or sores. Look for fleshy bumps or blisters. Pay attention to persistent fever, fatigue, and nausea.

Problem: Article: By using chemical pesticides, you can often kill the insects that prey on spider mites, making it easier for spider mites to grow and populate on your plants. Spider mites have also been known to develop quick resistance to some pesticides, so it's best to control spider mites with natural methods. Female spider mites can produce up to 300 eggs continuously over a few weeks. If some eggs are unable to be killed by pesticides, the mite problem may only get worse. Before taking any steps to remove spider mites, you'll want to remove the infected plants to an area without any other plants. This will prevent the spider mites from spreading and harming your other plants. After removing the infected plant to an isolated area, begin pruning the plant, removing any stems, leaves, or other infested parts of the plant and throw in the trash. Make sure to remove until all webbing is gone. Unfortunately, you may have to remove entire plants to prevent mites from spreading to other plants if the plant is overly infested. Make sure to throw leaves directly in a trash bag so they won't spread. Throwing them in your compost pile will allow spider mites to escape to your other plants. Using a high pressure water hose or nozzle, spray plant generously. This will dislodge spider mites from the plant and kill some of them, reducing the number of spider mites on your plant. If treating an indoor plant, use a wet sponge or take it outdoors to spray. This treatment typically has to be repeated in order to effectively remove spider mites. This is a great step, because allowing natural predators to inhabit your plant will keep spider mite population to a minimum, if not dissolving it completely, and you won't have to worry about spider mites continually infecting your plants. You can purchase these predators from reputable nurseries. Ladybugs, lacewing, and predatory mites are the best predators for spider mites The best time to release predators is when spider mite levels are relatively low. You'll also want to make sure the predators you purchase are appropriate for the plant you'll be placing them on and for the season in which you'll be using them. Soap sprays are a common, natural way to kill spider mites. Combine two tablespoons of gentle soap, one to two tablespoons of cooking oil, and a gallon of water. Spray plants thoroughly, repeating every four to seven days until spider mites appear gone. Gentle soap, such as baby shampoo, may be better because heavier soaps like dish detergent can damage plants. However, you can use a harsher soap as long as you test it on a small area of the plant first, making sure the solution doesn't burn the leaves. Cooking oil will smother the insects and help the solution stick to the leaves. Be careful not to spray solution on plants when you notice beneficial insects as this will harm them as well, and avoid spraying when the sun is directly on the leaves as it will likely dry up the solution. This solution is a common way to control mites and other pests. Combine one teaspoon cayenne pepper or hot sauce, one quart of warm water, and a few drops of liquid dish detergent. Let the solution sit overnight and then sift it through a fine strainer. Spray on the bottom of leaves, keeping it away from your face, and shaking frequently to prevent ingredients from settling. Always test solution on a small portion of the plant to make sure it doesn't harm the leaves. To make an even stronger solution, add minced onion and garlic. Many essential oils can help kill and prevent spider mites. These solutions are beneficial because they will not harm the plant itself, and have natural properties that react with the spider mite, often killing it. Mix a solution of these oils in a one liter bottle, filling half of it with lukewarm water and then adding 10 to 20 milliliters (0.34 to 0.68floz) of essential oil. Some oils you might use are: Neem oil Eucalyptus oil Lemon oil Cinnamon oil Peppermint oil Rosemary oil Chrysanthemum oil Thyme oil For oils with a gentle smell, use higher concentrations, and those with a stronger smell, use lower concentrations. Never pour essential oils directly onto plant without diluting them first as this will likely damage the plant.
Summary: Know the benefits of organic treatment. Isolate the plant immediately. Prune the plant. Spray the plant with water. Introduce natural predators. Create a soap spray. Use hot pepper spray. Spray plant with an oil solution.

Problem: Article: The single most noticeable symptom of blood blisters is bumps that appear just below the skin. If you notice your cat developing bumps, you should investigate them. When looking at bumps, look to see if: The bump is raised slightly. If there are multiple bumps in the same area. One of the hallmarks of a blood blister is its reddish color. The blood blister is red because it reflects the blood that is pooling just below the skin. In the end, the darkness of the bump is one of the best indications that it is a blood blister and not another type of blister or growth. Larger blisters or ones in problematic locations may cause your cat pain. However, it is important to note that not all blisters are painful and blisters are not the only type of growth that may cause pain. Try to notice if your cat experiences pain when you or they touch the blister. Blisters around the neck or in your cat's ear may cause your cat significant discomfort. Blood blisters on the pads of your cat's feet may cause your cat to limp.
Summary:
Look for a bump. Notice that the bump appears dark red. Watch to see if your cat is in pain.