For this, don't take any cards out (apart from the jokers) -- just look past the suits and pretend they're all the same. Otherwise you'd need way more decks! Each card should be face down and vertically oriented. Each of the first 4 piles should contain 5 cards, and the last 6 piles should each contain 4 cards. The first 4 piles should now contain a total of 6 cards (with the uppermost card face up) and the last 6 piles should now contain a total of 5 cards (uppermost card face up). This pile is known as the "stock." You'll be drawing from it when you run out of moves on your tableau. Move any face-up card onto a card with the next-highest value in the deck, regardless of suit. For example, a Queen of any suit can go on top of a King of any suit; a 7 of any suit can go on top of an 8 of any suit. Place each new card slightly lower than the card you're playing it on, so you can still see the value and suit of each previously played card. You can move the card closest to you in each face up stack to another stack at your convenience. You can only move several face-up cards together if they're all in descending order. For example, the K-Q-J-10-9 or 5-4-3 (of any suit) can be moved together as a single unit. You cannot leave any piles unturned (why would you want to?). Once you deplete all the cards from a particular pile, you can fill the empty space with any face-up card or descending sequence of suited cards. You cannot use the stockpile if you have any empty columns to fill. Simply take a card (or a bunch) from a stack and place it in the empty column. If you're looking at your tableau and you don't see anything you can possibly do, turn to your stock. Deal one card face-up from the stock onto each of the 10 card stacks, then continue play. When you run out of stock cards to add and can't do anything, wah wah. Game over. Playing with one suit is fairly doable, but when you hit two and four it becomes rather difficult. Set them aside face-up. When you have 8, you're finished! Take care to keep the completed sequences separate from the stockpile you set aside after the initial deal. Play ends when you've succeeded in creating all 8 "builds," or suited King-through-Ace sequences, or when no more moves are possible.

Summary: Shuffle 2 decks of playing cards together. Deal 10 piles of cards out in a horizontal line. Deal another card, face up, on each of the 10 piles. Set the rest of the combined decks aside, face down. Build sequences of cards in descending order by doing the following: Turn face-down cards face-up as they become uncovered. Use the stock when you run out of moves. Remove King-through-Ace sequences from play as you succeed in creating them.

Most cats are naturally a little skittish about having their paws handled, so begin by helping your cat get accustomed to it. Wait for a time when your cat is relaxed and lounging. Begin gently petting its paws while simultaneously petting the cat in its favorite spots (the back of the neck, under the chin, where its back meets its tail, etc.). Do this for each paw you plan to trim. The cat might pull its paws away, or even get up and walk away. Let it go; don't force it to do anything, but continue to gently pet its paws when you have the opportunity. Whenever you handle your cat's paws, reward it with treats and praise to help build positive associations. Once your cat is comfortable enough to allow you to rest your hand on its paws without pulling away, start to gently hold its paws in your open hand. Place your hand over the cat's paw, then flip your hand around so the bottom of the cat's paw is on the palm of your hand. Keep rewarding the cat with petting and treats; give the cat a new, special treat that will only be associated with cutting its claws. After your cat grows accustomed to you holding its paws, start holding the paws and massaging them with your fingers. Gently massage your fingers over the tops and bottoms of each paw you plan to trim. Reward your cat with more treats and praise. Eventually, you should be able to gently squeeze the paws (applying most of the pressure on the pads) to push individual claws out without upsetting your cat. When your cat's claws are extended, you'll see the thick part of the nail, and, towards the cat's toe, a pinkish area inside the nail, called the quick. The quick is the living part of the nail and contains blood vessels and nerves, so cutting a cat's nail to the quick is quite painful for the cat. Never cut a cat's nail close to or with flush with the toe; your aim is to clip off only the sharp point. Look carefully at where and how large each quick is--through a clear nail it will look like a small pink triangle. Each of your cat's nails will be similar, so even if the cat has dark nails, look to find one clear nail as a reference point for the others. " If your cat is already comfortable sitting in the right position to have its nails cut, it will put up less of a fight during the actual trimming. If you're going to be trimming the cat's nails by yourself, the cat will need to sit on its rear on your lap, facing away from you, while you hold its paw with one hand (and, eventually, the clippers with the other). Practice having your cat sit this way and hold each of its paws. Gently press on each nail to extend it. Again, reward the cat with treats and praise. If you have someone to help, they can hold the cat facing you, or they can cradle it, while you hold the paw with one hand (and, eventually, clip with the other). Practice having your assistant hold your cat while you hold each of its paws and gently press each claw until your cat seems comfortable. Reward it with treats and praise.
Summary: Pet your cat's paws. Hold your cat's paws. Massage your cat's paws. Look closely at your cat's nails. Get your cat comfortable with the "nail-trimming position.