Problem: Article: The weight of the object you wish to hang will determine the screw gauge you'll need, and the screw gauge will determine the correct wall plug. The gauge of a screw is the diameter of the non-threaded portion. Larger numbers indicate a larger diameter. As a general rule, the heavier the object is, the larger screw gauge you'll need. If the object comes packaged with manufacturer's instructions, review those instructions for advice on the proper screw gauge. If no instructions are available, use the following notes as a general guide: Standard kitchen cupboards may need size 10 (5.0 mm) screws. Internal doors may need size 8 (4.0 mm) screws. A shelf measuring 1 yard (0.91m) (1 m) in length may require size 8 (4.0 mm) screws. A 12-inch (30.5-cm) by 8-inch (20-cm) picture frame may need size 6 (3.5 mm) screws. When in doubt, use screw that might be too large instead of using one that might be too small. The correct wall plug size will primarily depend upon the screw gauge being used. More precisely, the wall plug size will change based on the drill bit used to create the hole. As a general rule: Yellow plugs fit into 5.0 mm holes and work best with screw sizes 3 and 4, but can be used for screw sizes 3 through 8. Red plugs fit into 6.0 mm holes and work best with screw sizes 6 and 8, but can be used for screw sizes 6 through 10. Brown plugs fit into 7.0 mm holes and work best with screw sizes 8 through 12, but can be used for screw sizes 8 through 14. Blue plugs fit into 10.0 mm holes and work best with screw size 14, but can be used for screw sizes 14 through 18. Note that not every brand follows the same color guidelines. Check the package or the wall plug itself for information concerning hole size before you begin working with any set of plugs. Determine whether the wall is solid or hollow before purchasing wall plugs for it. Solid walls will need the standard bullet-shaped wall plug. Hollow walls will need wall plugs with wings, also known as plasterboard plugs.
Summary: Consider the weight of the object. Match the wall plug to the screw. Examine the wall.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: To free up space on your hard drive, identify these space-munching folders. If you're concerned that Squeeze might somehow alter your important files, you need not worry. Nevertheless, just place folders you don't want compressed in the "Exclusions" tab. You can also add specific folders or set up file extensions that you don't want Squeeze to compress. By default, your entire Library, System folder(s), and a number of other extensions are excluded from being compressed by the Squeeze program. This list is under the "Folders" tab in the Squeeze window. Under the "Status" tab, that tiny circle is an indicator of the compression progress of a folder. Once compression is completed, the circle transforms into a check mark. The number displayed on the far right of the screen indicates how much hard drive space has been freed up. Squeeze will keep on updating the list of folders it has compressed over time as well as the total hard drive space it has recovered. You can drag as many folders as needed. Alternately, you can actually drag your entire hard drive, and place it in the program. That's another level of convenience put in place for you!

SUMMARY: Locate the folders eating up space. Control which folders you don't want to be compressed. Drag a folder to the Squeeze list. Drag another folder and repeat the process.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Attach crochet thread to your crochet hook using a slipknot, then work up 21 chain stitches. Check the "Tips" section for information on making slip knots and chain stitches. You can vary the length of this foundation chain, but make sure that your chains equal a number divisible by your intended groupings plus one. A standard grouping will be five stitches, so your chain count should be a multiple of five plus one extra: 21, 26, 31, 36, etc. The extra chain will be your turning chain. You won't work into it, so in essence, it only exists to make the edge of the lace look smoother. Crochet thread will give your lace a light, delicate appearance. If you want to crochet thicker lace, though, you can use a lightweight or worsted weight yarn instead of thread. Keep in mind that a heavier yarn will require a larger crochet hook, as well. Insert the hook into the second chain from the hook, wrap the yarn over the hook, and draw the loop back through to the front of the stitch. Slide the tip of a knitting needle or dowel into this loop. The size of your knitting needle or dowel will determine how large your loops are and how big your rows will be. A larger circumference will create bigger lace rows. Draw up loose loops in the remaining 19 stitches of your foundation chain. Slide the needle across the chain and into each loop, gathering all 20 loops onto the handle of the needle at the same time. For each stitch, insert the hook into stitch, yarn over it, and draw a loop up through to the front. Insert the knitting needle into that loop before moving onto the next stitch. Slide your crochet needle underneath the first five loops. Make one chain stitch through the top of this grouping to close it. You can either remove the knitting needle as you work on your groupings or keep it in. Do whichever option feels easiest for you. Work five single crochets into the middle of all five loops in your grouping. See the "Tips" section for instructions on single crocheting. Note that the number of single crochets you make will depend on the number of loops in your grouping. Five loops in your grouping means five single crochets; four loops in your grouping would mean four single crochets, and so on. This step completes your first grouping. Insert your hook through the next five loops, chain one, then single crochet through the centers five times. Continue this step until you have created groupings for all of your original loops across the row. For a set of 20 loops, you will have four groupings. The single crochets you worked up in your first row will provide the base for your second row. Draw up loose loops from each of these single crochet stitches to start your second row, using the same technique used for the first row. Insert the crochet hook through the stitch, yarn over, and pull the loop through to the front. Slide this loop onto the knitting needle before moving onto the next stitch. This row should have the same number of loops in it as your first row. As before, you need to gather the loops into groupings and single crochet into each grouping. Do this across the row until you run out of loops. Insert your crochet hook into five loops, chain one, then single crochet five times into the middles of all the loops on your hook. Repeat across the row. Follow this same pattern to create as many rows of broomstick lace you need. Draw up loose loops from the stitches in the previous row and form groupings from those loops. When you reach the end of your lace piece, cut the yarn, leaving a 2-inch (5-cm) tail. Pull this tail through the loop on your hook to fasten off the crochet thread. Any remaining excess should be carefully woven into the back of the piece to hide it from sight and further secure the thread.
Summary:
Work up a foundation chain. Draw up loose loops. Repeat across the chain. Gather a grouping. Single crochet into the grouping space. Repeat across the row. Work up a second row. Gather and single crochet into the loops. Repeat as needed. Fasten off the thread.