Q: There are thousands of discs on the market, and many of them have remarkably different flight patterns. Each disc is made for a certain type of shot and thrower, and you should experiment with different styles. When shopping, it is helpful to understand the basic terminology: Overstable means that the disc fades strongly to the left for right-handed throwers, and right for left-handers, when thrown backhand. Understable means that a disc fades to the right for righties, and to the left for lefties, when thrown backhand. Speed & Glide tells you how hard you can throw a disc to get distance on it, and how long it stays in the air. Higher speed discs are harder to throw accurately, and high glide is harder to control. However, when mastered, you will throw for greater distances overall. Basic vs. Premium Plastics determine how long a disc will last after landing, hitting trees, and wear and tear. Higher quality plastics often have better grip, as well. A long-distance throw comes not from working out, but from smooth, consistent technique. The best advice is to keep your disc "flat," or perpendicular to the ground. As the disc rises, it catches more wind and almost always hooks off, heading sharply to the left with right-handers. When releasing, focus on keeping the nose of the disc down. 10-20 feet off the ground generally leads to the best throws. If the nose is up, the disc usually rises and then breaks hard down to the left (for righties). Curving in disc golf is called "hyzer," and it is accomplished depending on the angle of the disc. Knowing these terms, and how to accomplish each type of throw, greatly increases your skills and shots on the links. All of these descriptions are for a right-handed thrower, but easily reverse for lefties. Hyzer: When the outside edge is lower than your grip, tilting the disc to the left. This makes the disc curve left when thrown. Anhyzer: When the grip edge is lower than the outer edge, tilting the disc to the right. This makes the disc curve to the right. S-Curve: Throwing a nose-up anhyzer throw -- remember that a nose up disc breaks left near the end but an anhyzer breaks right in the beginning. This lets you get a curvy S-shaped path if you can pull it off. Learning to hone your hyzers in combination with your throwing angle separates the pros from amateurs. Note how your drives normally break and compensate accordingly. Need to curve the disc left? Start on the back left of the tee and approach diagonally to the upper right, still aiming towards the basket. This will naturally tilt your disc slightly. Need to get the disc up high, like up a hill? This will point your nose up, which drags the shot left. Approach diagonally towards the right to compensate. It seems paradoxical, but most disc golfers note that they hit longer drives when they use only 80% of their power, focusing the rest of their energy on perfect technique. Trying to throw too hard usually leads to tense muscles, which greatly impacts your accuracy. The number one indicator of disc distance is the arm speed used to throw. This is important to note, as speed is usually a factor of form -- having a relaxed but concise throwing motion without locking up or getting tense --and not a factor of pure strength. The backhand throw will suffice for 90% of your shots, if not more, but that doesn't mean you can't extend your shot selection to hit tricky angles. Some of the most common other shots include: Forehand: Instead of turning your body in, then uncoiling, you point with your non-throwing foot, then follow through across your body. This has less power, but reverses your normal curve on the shot, making it a good way to get a hook or slice without trying having to point the nose in a remarkably different angle. Hammer Throw: You throw the disc overhand, up high, releasing with a snap of the wrist as the disc gets above your head. Hold the disc like normal, and bring it back behind your head, turning it so that the top of the disc points to the ground. With a short overhand throw (like you were throwing a hammer), toss the disc up, keeping the top of the disc pointed to the ground. This leads to a short, straight, and high shot perfect for getting over an obstacle right in front of you.
A: Grow your disc collection for specific shots and properties. Work on a strong, flat throw for maximum distance on your backhand. Angle the disc to curve it around tricky objects. Understand that you don't always want to approach the disc straight on. Focus on technique, not full power, to throw it further. Learn other types of throws to greatly increase your range.

Q: Use or 1 cup of the trisodium phosphate (TSP). Put the TSP into a gallon of warm water. This is a very strong chemical so be sure that you have all of your protection on when handing the TSP. Dip a scrub brush into the mixture. Begin to scrub the fireplace. You may have to do some tough scrubbing to remove all the buildup. Make sure to get into the hard-to-reach places and nooks and crannies. If the tough spots aren't coming off, then you can make a paste out of a small amount of water and TSP. Apply the paste directly to the spot. Scrub until the spot begins to lift. Dip a clean sponge into water. Rinse every part of the fireplace that you used the TSP on. Allow time to dry.
A:
Mix the trisodium phosphate with water. Use a scrub brush. Make a paste for tough areas. Rinse with water.