In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Consult the local building authorities to learn about code requirements, needed permits and property set backs for storage buildings. Most lean-tos will require some digging, whether for a concrete foundation, pier blocks, or postholes. Always call a utility location service before you break soil. Digging into a pipe or electric line could cause serious injury or property damage. In the United States or Canada, call 811 toll-free to request this service. Plan the length and the width of your lean-to, and where it will attach to the shed. Angle the roof so rain is directed away from the building's perimeter. You may need a simple gutter or downspout drainage piping to prevent pooling at the base of the lean to. If your region receives heavy snowfall, build the roof to withstand that load. Also decide how the roof of the lean-to will interface with the roof of the shed. Even though the addition is small, a solid foundation is important. Use the best materials within your budget. Here are some solid examples: Concrete blocks Concrete footer with a small stem wall to prevent water from seeping in Concrete pier pads with the top flush to ground level You can use pressure-treated skids for additional support, but do not rely on them as your sole foundation. You can use a 4" x 4" pressure treated post to establish the vertical upright framing. Lumber is a fairly strong and inexpensive material for framing, and tin is a suitable roofing and siding material. Other options include shingle roofing, rolled roofing, metal flashing to waterproof the join between the new roof and the existing one, metal studs for framing, and cementitious board or composite sidings. Choose the materials that are suitable for your location and climate as well as materials that will match your existing building. Be sure to plan to use a sheath of CDX plywood on the wall that abuts against the structure. CDX plywood resists indirect moisture. Some basic items that a lean-to addition for a tin shed would use include: Poles for supporting the eave framing. 4" x 4" pressure treated southern yellow pine will support a lightweight roof framed with 2" x 4" boards, spanning less than 15 feet (4.6m) or so. For a longer, heavier roof span, 6" x 6" timbers or even steel columns may be more suitable. Rafters for framing the actual supporting structure of the roof will need to be strong enough to support the weight of the lathing, the decking and the workmen who will walk on the roof while installing it. A somewhat typical span of less than 10 feet (3.0m) may be framed with southern yellow pine if the rafters are free of large or loose knots and are otherwise structurally sound. You may use Douglas fir, hemlock, or cedar instead. Lodgepole pine, spruce and other softer pine species are too knotty and not strong enough for roofing unless the rafters are from large diameter trees. For roof spans 10 feet (3.0m) or greater, 2" x 6" nominal framing or larger, should be used. The rafter nailers spanning between the posts on the eave side of your lean-to must be strong enough to support the load of multiple rafters. Use a minimum size of 2" x 6" nominal southern yellow pine or other strong wood. Nailers attached directly to the wall of the building onto which the lean-to is being added can be the same size lumber as the rafters themselves as long as the nailer is attached securely to the wall of your building. Local building code and the existing wall material will determine which anchors to use. These may include lag bolts (to attach to large diameter wooden beams), threaded bolt nuts and large diameter washers (drilled into hollow concrete blocks), or hurricane anchors. Lathing strips, or the framing members that lay across the rafters that the metal roofing is attached to should be sound southern yellow pine or a similar lumber. 1" x 4" lathing lumber is sufficient to support a normal load on spans where the rafters are located at 24 inch center spacing or less. 2" x 4" lumber is easier to fasten to (it bounces less when nails are driven into it), and may not be significantly more expensive than the 1" x 4"s. If you are laying a plywood "roof decking" directly onto the rafters, then you only need lathing to brace between the rafters or to prevent side-to-side movement by cross-tying them to the bottoms of the rafters. Nails or screws to act as fasteners. Nails should be large enough to penetrate the attached member and the supporting member deeply enough to secure the two pieces. Screws may be used to attach dissimilar materials, such as metal framing, roofing, or siding to wood framing, or even for joining two separate wood members.
Summary: Know your local zoning laws. Locate underground hazards. Draw a plan for your project. Design the roof to withstand weather. Decide on a foundation. Choose the materials you will use. Calculate the amount of each material you will need, price them, and purchase them.

Many players tend to twist back at their hips, but you have to remember to pull back from the shoulders. To get the most powerful two-handed backhand, you should pull your arms back until you can practically rest your chin on your forward shoulder. As you wind back, you'll feel your weight transfer to your back leg. Make sure that you don't plant your back leg because as you follow through with the swing, your weight will transfer forward again. The slot is the space about one foot below the height where you will connect with the ball. Don't swing forward yet. Simply lower the racket into the slot while maintaining the correct grip. Once in the slot, the racket will be pointed very slightly closed face, meaning tilted just barely toward the ground rather than the sky. This is where you want it because as you follow through, your wrist will twist slightly upward to even out the racket.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Wind back from the shoulders. Transfer your weight to your back leg. Drop the racket into the slot.

Problem: Article: Some of the things you can readily find in your kitchen are thought to have antibacterial and healing properties, allowing you to quickly whip up an acne-fighting mask. You will need: 1/2 tablespoon of dark colored honey (darker honey has more antibacterial properties) 1 egg white (do not use the yolk) 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Use a whisk or fork to mix the egg white and lemon juice until it becomes frothy, then add the honey. Make sure that everything is well combined. You may wish to add other household items, such as 1 teaspoon of witch hazel (which has anti-inflammatory properties) or a few drops of an essential oil like peppermint, spearmint, lavender, or calendula, but it is unclear if these will enhance or reduce the effectiveness of the treatment. If you want to treat your whole neck, then you can use your fingers to spread the paste over your neck. If you want to treat a smaller area, then you can use a cotton swab or cotton ball to spread the paste over specific problem areas. Leave the paste alone for about 15 minutes, then rinse it away with lukewarm water. You may need to hop in the shower to do this. Use your fingers to break up the paste as you rinse it away. Pat your skin dry and then apply a non-comedogenic moisturizer to complete the treatment.
Summary:
Gather your ingredients. Combine the ingredients in a small bowl. Spread the paste over your neck. Allow the paste to dry on your neck and then rinse.