Bend each of the wires with your fingers or needle-nose pliers into L-shapes. Make sure each side of the angle measures 12 inch (1.3cm) long so you have space to wrap the wires. Set one wire onto the other so one L-shape is upside down and the other is rightside up. Make sure the corners of the wires are touching one another before moving on. Wrap the end of the wire that's pointing up around the straight piece of the other wire. Make sure the wrap is tight so the wires make a solid connection with one another. Aim to get at least 3 coils around the other wire if you can. Repeat the process on the other side. Use needle-nose pliers if you have trouble coiling the wire with your fingers. the coils together to hold them in place. Heat up your soldering iron and hold it near your wire coils with your dominant hand. Hold a rod of silver solder with your non-dominant hand next to the tip of your soldering iron. Melt the silver onto your coils so it drips between your wires and coats your entire splice. Avoid touching the end of your soldering iron with your bare hands or else you'll get burned. Line your work surface with paper towel or scrap wood to protect against any accidental drips. Slide the tube over the entire splice so none of the wires are exposed to the outside. Crimp the tube in place if it moves around easily. Wrap electrical tape around the coils if you don't have any shrink tube. Turn on your heat gun and point it toward the shrink tube. Spin the wire in your hand to evenly heat the tube so it shrinks around the coils. Continue heating the shrink tube until it's tight against the wire insulation. Use a lighter or torch to heat the tube if you don't have a heat gun.

Summary: Form a 90-degree angle with each of the exposed wires. Hook the wires together so the corners are touching. Coil the end of the upright wire around the wire perpendicular to it. Solder Move the shrink tube over the soldered wires. Heat the shrink tube with a heat gun until it's tight.

Click the Apple logo in the top-left corner of the screen. A drop-down menu will appear. It's in the drop-down menu. Doing so causes your Mac to begin restarting. Do this immediately after hearing the Startup chime. This loads the Recovery menu. The Recovery menu may take a few minutes to appear. It's next to an icon that resembles a hard disk drive with a stethoscope. This is in the lower-right corner of the screen. The Disk Utility window will open. It's a menu item at the top of the screen. A drop-down menu will appear. This is in the drop-down menu. You should see a list of your Mac's available storage locations appear on the left side of the screen. It's in the sidebar menu to the left. If your Mac has more than one hard drive, make sure you click the one on which the file you want to delete is stored. It's a tab which resembles a stethoscope at the top of the window. Doing so allows Disk Utility to begin scanning and repairing your Mac's hard drive. If Disk Utility reports an "overlapped extent allocation" error, you will be asked to take action; in this case, you can delete any damaged or corrupted files in a related list. If you see the file you want to delete in this list, do so before proceeding. Once Disk Utility finishes running, you can use the following steps to restart your Mac: Click the Apple Icon. Click Restart... Click Restart when prompted. Now that you've repaired any issues with your hard drive, you should be able to delete any files which were locked due to hard drive issues. Open the Finder and navigate to the file and click it. Then drag it to the Trash to delete it. You may still need to use Safe Mode to delete the file if it's used frequently by a default program. If you still can't delete the file in question, the file is most likely either locked by another user or reserved as a system file. Either way, you won't be able to delete the file.

Summary: Open the Apple menu . Click Restart. Click Restart when prompted. Hold down the Command+R keys. Release the keys when the Apple logo appears. Click Disk Utility. Click Continue. Click View. Click Show All Devices. Select your Mac's hard drive. Click the First Aid icon. Click Run when prompted. Delete files if asked. Restart your Mac. Try deleting the file again.

This design calls for a one-foot section of two-inch diameter PVC tubing, an end cap for the two-inch PVC, PVC glue, superglue, velcro, a spring, plastic discs, a paint can opener, a drill, a ruler, and plenty of ammunition. The best springs for this design are long, medium coil tension springs such as those found on the inside of the "snakes" in practical joke canisters that spring out when opened. Superglue this spring directly to the center of the PVC end cap. You can easily cut this plastic disc out of something household such as an empty laundry detergent bottle. Most importantly, cut the disc with a 1.5" diameter so that it can easily fit flat down the PVC tube. Center this disc on the opposite end of the spring and attach it with more superglue. You want to test how deep you can coil the spring into the tube before drilling the first hole, so fit the end cap onto the tube without gluing it and push the plastic disc all the way down with a ruler. Use that to gauge how far the spring coils down the tube, and drill the first hole in the tube one-half inch more shallow than the depressed disc. Drill the second hole at the opposite end of the tube about one inch from the end. each hole perforate both sides of the tube in a perfectly straight line. Use a drill bit large enough so that you can insert the paint can opener through the holes. Once you have your holes drilled, you can glue the end cap holding the spring into place on the tube. You'll want to give the glue thirty minutes to dry before testing the launcher. To make this launcher resemble an M203 grenade launcher, you can attach it under the barrel of a carbine-style Nerf or Airsoft gun with velcro. Simply peel the plastic backing off a velcro strip and place one end on the tube and the other on the gun. You can use the wall-safe velcro types, which will even allow you to remove the velcro easily when you want. For select Nerf models such as the Recon, you can use the sight that attaches to the gun and slides off instead. Attach this piece to the tube, and you can clip the launcher to the gun where that slides and locks into place. You can just as easily use this design without it being attached to anything else as well. Push the spring all the way down, then insert the painter can opener key into the hole drilled into the bottom of the tube. This will hold the spring coiled while you load the launcher. This design can hold a ton of Nerf darts. Insert the darts in sets of five or six to keep them straight as they drop down the tube. You can place about three of these layers to fill the tube. Once you have loaded the tube, place a second plastic disc with the same diameter as the first one you cut into the tube on top of the ammo load. Hold this disc down while you remove the paint can opener from the bottom set of holes and insert it back into the top set of holes in the top of the barrel. If you still have some of the old Nerf ball-type ammunition, these fit in the tube and fire effectively as well. Now you simply have to aim the launcher and pull the paint can opener back out as though it were a firing pin. The high load of ammunition may not explode on impact (obviously), but the spread of the ammunition gives you a much more effective idea of a blast radius. Just like an M203, the angle of the launcher is how you aim. Practice firing it several times to get a feel for the trajectory of the launch, and then you will be able to aim proficiently in no time.
Summary: Gather materials. Superglue the spring to the inside of the PVC end cap. Superglue a plastic disc to the other end of the spring. Drill two holes in the PVC tube. Use the PVC glue to glue the end cap onto the tube. Attach the launcher to your favorite Nerf gun with velcro. Prime the launcher. Load the launcher. Fire the launcher.