Article: Your choice will usually be based on the availability of materials needed by the method, the technical difficulty level of the method or the quality of PCB you desire to obtain. Here's a brief summary of the different methods and their main features that will help you decide: Acid etching method: this method requires extreme safety measure, the availability of many materials such as the etchant and it is somewhat slow. The quality of PCB obtained varies according to the materials you use but generally, it is a good method for simple to intermediate levels of complexity circuits. Circuits involving more close wiring and tiny wires usually use other methods. UV etching method: this method is used for transposition of your PCB layout onto your PCB board and requires more expensive materials that might not be available everywhere. However, the steps are relatively simple and can produce finer and more complicated circuit layouts. Mechanical etching/routing method: this method requires special machines that will mechanically etch away unnecessary copper from the board or route empty separators between wires. It can be expensive if you intend to buy one of those machines and usually leasing them requires the availability of a workshop nearby. However, this method is good if you need to create many copies of the circuit and also can produce fine PCBs. Laser etching method: this is usually used by large production companies, but can be found on some universities. The concept is similar to mechanical etching but LASER beams are used to etch the board. It is usually hard to access such machines, but if your local university is one of the lucky ones having such machine, you can use their facilities if they allow it. For acid etching, you need to draw the circuitry using an etchant resistant material. Special markers can be found easily for this specific purpose if you intend to do the drawing by hand (not appropriate for medium to large circuits). Laser printers' ink is the most commonly used material however. This is usually done by converting your circuit's schematic diagram into a PCB layout using PCB layout software. There are many open source software packages for PCB layout creation and design, some are listed here to give you a head-start: PCB ShortCut Print it out on a glossy paper, such as magazine paper. You should ensure the circuit is mirrored before doing that (most PCB layout programs have this as an option when printing). Once printed, make sure you don't touch the ink part on the paper as it can get on your hands. Start up your iron. Set the iron on the cotton setting and wait until it heats up. Be careful, the paper will be hot. The paper should be stuck to the circuit board, don't rip it out. An alternative approach is to immerse the board and paper in hot water for a few minutes (up to 10 minutes). If certain areas seem particularly difficult to peel off, you can try soaking a bit more. If everything went well, you will have a copper board with your PCB pads and signal lines traced out in black toner. Get the big droplets of water off by softly wiping with a napkin or sponge or just letting them fall out. It shouldn't take more than 30 seconds and it should not be vigorous or else the ink on to the circuit might come off. This process removes any unnecessary copper from the board leaving only wiring of the final circuit.
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Choose a method to use for creating the PCB. Create the PCB Layout of your circuit. Once you are happy with the schematic on your computer, match the size of the diagram on the software so that both the circuit board and the paper will have the needed sizes. Print out the diagram from the software's File menu. Align the circuit diagram on the paper with the circuit board (the diagram should be facing the copper part of the circuit board). Once heated, carefully place the iron on top of the paper which is on top of the circuit board. Place the iron there for about 30-45 seconds (depending on your iron). After lifting the iron, put it aside carefully and take the circuit board to your nearest source of water. Start the water flow and hold the circuit board below it. Slowing start taking off the paper and soon all of the paper should come off. Dry the board. Etch the board using one of the methods below.
Article: As your horse moves, your pelvis rocks forward and backward in synch with the horse's movements. Your pelvis will naturally match your horse's gait, but you can alter your horse's speed by keeping your pelvis in position and adjusting your pelvic movements. Angle your pelvis slightly forward. Try to maintain your center of balance, and don't lean too far forward or you may get disoriented. You can try using vocal commands with your horse, but they work best when a horse has come to associate those words/sounds with a complementary action. However, some words (like "woah," "easy," and "back") are easily understood by horses due to frequent exposure. If you want your horse to respond to a verbal command like "faster," you'll need to train your horse by saying "faster" while you squeeze or gently kick the horse's sides. Be aware of your tone of voice. The tone you speak in is at least as important as the actual words you say to your horse.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Keep your pelvis tilted slightly forward. Consider trying vocal commands.
Article: Use a coffee can or similarly shaped container as your quenching chamber. Pour in water or vegetable oil so it's 23 inches (5.17.6cm) from the rim of the container. Make sure the oil or water is at room temperature. This step should be done before heating the steel, as the steel should be quenched immediately after removing from heat. {"smallUrl":"https:\/\/www.wikihow.com\/images\/thumb\/1\/1a\/Harden-Steel-Step-4-Version-3.jpg\/v4-460px-Harden-Steel-Step-4-Version-3.jpg","bigUrl":"\/images\/thumb\/1\/1a\/Harden-Steel-Step-4-Version-3.jpg\/aid1214287-v4-728px-Harden-Steel-Step-4-Version-3.jpg","smallWidth":460,"smallHeight":345,"bigWidth":"728","bigHeight":"546","licensing":"<div class="mw-parser-output"><p>License: <a rel="nofollow" class="external text" href="https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc-sa\/3.0\/">Creative Commons<\/a><br>
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<\/p><\/div>"} Water is great for rapidly quenching the hot metal, but it could cause thin steel to distort or crack. Vegetable oil has a higher boiling point, so the hot steel will take longer to cool and reduce the chance of it cracking. However, oil may spill and create a fire hazard if the steel is put into the oil too quickly. The water or oil will continue to boil as the heat transfers from the steel. Keep the steel completely submerged until there is no more steam or bubbles, which should only take a few minutes. Set the steel back on your work surface when you're finished.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Fill a heat-safe container with water or oil deep enough to submerge your steel. Remove the steel from the quenching medium when it stops bubbling.