Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Look for signs of an inductive loop detector. Check for camera detection. Consider that the lights could be fixed time operated.

Answer: As you pull up to an intersection, look for markings in the roadway that indicate an inductive loop that has been installed below the surface to detect the conductive metal in cars, bikes, and motorcycles. Once a vehicle is detected by the loops, the traffic light system is signaled that there is someone waiting to proceed. The lights for the cross traffic will then begin to change after a safe time period before the light turns green for you. Check for signs of loop detectors in the pavement just before the stop line and crosswalk markings. You will often be able to see grooves in the pavement where the loop has been installed, indicating where you should position your vehicle. There are several different shapes of inductive loops, including a dipole (one loop with two long sides), quadrupole (two loops with three long sides), and diagonal quadrupole (two loops with four long sides, designed to detect two-wheeled vehicles more easily). Look out for cameras at intersections, which can detect the presence of cars waiting and signal the lights to begin changing. Find cameras of this type mounted to posts and beams at the intersection, near the traffic lights themselves. These cameras can also be used to take photos of illegal traffic activity, or they may perform both functions. Know that some traffic lights change based on a predetermined timer only, and cannot be specifically triggered to change by the presence of a vehicle. These fixed time lights would likely be found in an area with equally heavy traffic coming from both sides, or in a town or city that simply doesn't have the infrastructure for an actuated system. Note that while this type of traffic light is pre-determined and scheduled by traffic control engineers, it is typically regularly updated based on actual usage, and even adjusted to take into account holidays, big events, and other potential variations in traffic.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Never share the PIN. Never give out your PIN in response to e-mail or telephone requests. Shield your PIN when using it. Do not write your PIN down on the card, ever.

Answer: It might be tempting to trust a friend or a family member with your PIN but it is not a good idea. Circumstances can change and sometimes, people perceive a need more greatly than maintaining your trust or worst still, a person you do trust might be placed in a compromising position with a third party and be obliged to reveal your PIN under harassment or threat. It is better not to put this to the test, ever. Phishing scams are unsolicited e-mails asking for bank account details, passwords and PINs. Delete them without a second thought and never respond to them. Your real bank will never request personal banking details through an email. Also, never provide your PIN over the telephone; there is never a need to do this and it will always be a fraudulent request. Use your hand, a checkbook, a piece of paper etc. to shield the PIN as you enter it into a bank machine or a store machine. Be especially vigilant in store queues, where somebody may be paying more attention than you. Also, be wary of "card skimmers" at ATMs; they use scanners run over the card slot to lift debit card details and they find your PIN details via camera or looking. If you shield your PIN input well, they are hampered in their attempt. Do not even write it in a diary. If you must write it down, disguise it in some way or put it somewhere totally unrelated to the card, such as in the middle of Shakespeare's Complete Works.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Grab the cardstock. Glue the tube. Remove the tube slightly. Bend the edge. Tape the bent edge. Create the fins. Secure the fin onto the rocket. Add weight to the front of the rocket. Make the launcher.

Answer: Lay it flat on a table. Place your copper pipe lengthwise on top of the paper so the rocket is long and thin. Make sure the top edge of the paper is even with the rest of the page. Use your copper pipe (or any other thin, round tube) to create the shape of the rocket by rolling the paper around the pipe. Tuck the paper underneath the pipe simultaneously as you roll. This will ensure the body is as snug as possible. If the tube slides smoothly and freely as you're rolling, you're in good shape. Once your paper is tightly wound around the pipe, unroll it so only a third of the page is around the pipe. Hold the paper in place with one hand and using the other hand, grab the glue. Rub a strip of glue the entire length of the page. Roll the paper a little more to cover the newly placed glue spot. Repeat this action of rolling a little, placing glue, rolling a little and placing glue, until the tube is sealed. Pay special focus to the last edge you glue. Ensure it is extra secure so it doesn't unravel during flight. Continue to rub and roll the solid tube for several minutes to make sure everything is holding in place and sticking accordingly. Think of the tube as a rolling pin for dough and simply roll it back and forth. Holding the pipe upright with one hand, slide the pipe out the bottom about half an inch. This will leave the same amount of space (half an inch) exposed at the top that is not supported by the tube. Using a single finger, bend the unsupported edge at the top of the tube down. This will create a three or four layered end. Press hard against the pipe so it is firm. Once you've smashed the edge, press the crimped end on the table to really smash it in. Using scotch tape, grab two, inch and a half pieces or so of tape. Place the tape over the bent end of the cardstock. Make sure the tape is crossed for added security. This will prevent the edge from popping open once shot. Using a separate sheet of cardstock, fold the paper in half lengthwise. Holding the opened side of the paper, cut upward diagonally on the opposite corner of the page. When you open the fin, you will have created a large triangle with the bottom measuring about two to two and a half inches wide. Align the bottom of the triangle along the base of the rocket (non-taped end). Place a piece of tape over the tip of the triangle so the tip lays flat but the wings are perpendicular to the rocket. Use only a single piece of tape here so the fins have a little flexibility. You can do this with a little play dough. Using a small amount, about the size of a dime, make a ball of dough. Drop into the open end of the rocket. Use your copper pipe to push it to down all the way. Be careful not to press too hard as you'll puncture the taped end. Get your empty, plastic two liter bottle and inch diameter, foot long PVC. Slide the PVC into the bottle. It will fit nice and snug. Tape the PVC and bottle together to prevent any wiggling.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Determine if your hydrangea blooms on old wood. Prune just after the blooming peak. Remove old blooms. Remove the oldest canes. Prune the hydrangea to reduce its size.

Answer:
This is another way of saying that your hydrangea produces new spring blooms on last year's buds. Hydrangeas with this characteristic tend to bloom in early summer, and the flowers die by mid summer. At this point the shrub begins producing the buds that will bloom the following year. Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood include the following: Bigleaf, Mopleaf or Lacecap hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla and H. serrata) Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) Use the images at http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/identify.html to help you identify what kind of hydrangea you have before you start making any plans to prune your plant. Since these types of hydrangeas start producing buds soon after blooming, in late summer and early fall, it's essential to prune them just as the blooms begin to fade in mid-summer. This way you can trim the shrub before it begins to produce the buds that will turn into next year's flowers. The longer you wait, the likelier it will be that you'll cut off some of next year's growth. If you've missed this window, just wait until next year to prune the hydrangea. Hydrangeas don't have to be pruned every year, so it won't be a problem to wait. If you're unhappy with your hydrangea's shape, you can go ahead and prune - just know that in doing so outside of the short midsummer window, you'll risk hurting it's appearance next spring. Right after they're spent, use hand shears to deadhead the blooms. Do this by making clips just under the heads at the tips of the stems. This will tidy up the hydrangea's appearance during the blooming season. You can also remove dead or dying canes at this time; trim them at their base. When a hydrangea is several years old, it'll start to produce fewer blooms. You can promote fresh growth by taking out some of the older canes - up to 1/3 of them. For thicker canes, you may need loppers to cut them. Cut these older canes to the ground. If your hydrangea has grown quite large, you can prune it in June or July (just after the blooming season) to contain it a bit. Trim back the branches by 1/3 to the nearest joint. In most cases hydrangeas will grow back quite quickly, so you may not be able to maintain the smaller size for long. This type of pruning isn't necessary for the health of the plant. Only do it if your hydrangea is taking up too much space. When planting new hydrangeas, it's best to choose a spot where they can grow freely. "Endless Summer" hydrangeas are an exception to the rule. This variety is more low-maintenance than others and can really be pruned at any season - there is no "bad time." Endless Summer hydrangeas can mainly be left alone until they mature. You can then "deadhead" the plant in the spring or fall to encourage new flowers.