INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Like nearly all potted plants, if allowed to grow, peace lilies will eventually become too big to comfortably thrive in their original container. When your peace lily becomes too large for its pot, you may notice that it seems to require increasingly frequent watering and/or that its leaves turn yellow for no apparent reason. You may also be able to see its roots crowd the surface of the soil. Generally, peace lilies should be re-potted every 1-2 years, so if it's been about this length of time and you notice some of the above symptoms, your plant is a likely candidate for re-potting. When you re-pot a peace lily, you'll obviously want to use a bigger pot than you were using previously so that your plant has additional room to spread its roots and grow. Use a pot about 2 inches (5.1cm) wider in diameter than the previous pot - a relatively small increase in pot size can give a plant enough room to grow for several years. Generally, peace lily's won't ever require pots larger than about 10 inches (25.4cm) in diameter, so if your pot is larger than this and the lily is still exhibiting troubling symptoms, there may be another issue. Almost any pot material is fine - ceramic, plastic, and clay all work well. Make sure your pot has one or more drainage holes on the bottom. It's essential that water be able to drain from the pot - if not, your lily may become at risk for root rot. As has been alluded to above, peace lilies are native to tropical rainforests. They typically grow under a thick, multi-tiered forest canopy and thus are nearly constantly surrounded by decaying plant matter. When picking a potting soil, choose one that retains this quality. Use a peat-based potting soil that contains composted bark, along with sand or perlite. Ideally, your soil should be light and springy (to allow proper drainage) and have little to no odor. Prepare your new pot by filling it with enough compacted soil so that your plant sits comfortably on top of it. Ideally, you should only need to add dirt around the sides of the plant, rather than below it or on top of it. Gently pack your soil down so that it will support your plant firmly without sinking downward. Pry or dig your peace lily out of its pot and place it atop the soil in its new pot. Add soil from the original pot around the plant in its new pot - using familiar soil can ease the plant's transition to its new home. Water your plant and add more soil when the water makes the soil in the pot settle. When the transition is complete, the soil in the new pot should be at a level of about 1/2" to 1" (1.3 to 2.5 cm) below the rim of the pot. After it is re-potted, your plant's roots won't immediately have a strong hold on its new soil. This can make it difficult to get your plant to stay upright. If you're having a difficult time balancing your plant, use a sturdy wooden stake or dowel to hold the peace lily's stalk up. Bury the stake in the potting soil (taking care not to damage the plant's roots) and use a wire to tie the stalk to the stake. Remove the stake when the plant has established its roots and is able to stand on its own. If, rather than moving your plant to a new pot, you'd like to instead grow an entirely new plant in another pot, remove one of the plant's crowns and pot this in the new pot instead of the entire lily. A peace lily's "crowns" are clusters of two or more leaves that are separate and distinct from the main part of the plant. To separate a crown from your main lily, first, remove the entire plant, crowns and all, from its pot. Work from the top of the crown down to the roots, disentangling the roots of the crown from the roots from the main plant. This can take some time and lead to accidental root breakages - this is common, but try to avoid breaking more roots than necessary. When you've completely separated the crown from the main plant, plant it in its own small pot (no bigger than about 6 inches in diameter) as you would do with a normal peace lily.

SUMMARY: Recognize the signs that signify that re-potting is necessary. Use a pot of suitable size. Use an appropriate potting mix. Transfer your plant to its new container. Be prepared to use a stake to support the new plant. To create two separate plants, pot a "crown" from the old plant.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Overall, you want your pear tree to be shaped like a wine glass, with the trunk as the glass stem and the branches in an even, outwardly splayed growth. Allow for about 612 inches (1530cm) of air space between healthy branches to allow for good air circulation and to reduce the risk of fungal infections. Occasionally step back from your tree and look at the overall shape as you're pruning, to ensure that you're getting the right shape and clearing away crowded areas effectively. You want your pear tree branches to grow outward and slightly upward. If you have branches that are growing downward, prune these at their point of origin at the bigger branch. Your overall goal is to have a tree with evenly spaced branches that splay out in a pleasing visual pattern from the center. Branches that grow against the main flow of outward, upward branches will crowd your other branches and cause an overall chaotic look in your tree. Prune these branches at their point of origin where they meet a bigger branch. If you find two or more branches growing from a single space at a narrow angle, or from different points in a parallel fashion and they hover toward each other, choose the healthiest appearing branch to keep and prune the rest. The branch you keep should also have the best angle at its origin, which is around a 2 o'clock or 10 o'clock angle from the center of the tree. Branches with wider angles can break easily when they bear fruit.

SUMMARY: Aim for a wine-glass shape with evenly spaced branches. Remove branches that grow downward. Prune branches that grow toward your tree's center. Thin out competing branches.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Scratches on the inside of your glass can act as nucleation sites for bubbles to form. Thus scratches can cause your brew to lose carbonation. To avoid this, if your glasses have scratches, simply rinse them with water before filling. If you are using plastic cups scratches are not a problem. Do not pump for the first few pints. Just push down on the nozzle. The pressure already in the keg is more than enough to expel your beer. Do not worry, when the first pint is all foam. This is normal and beer will follow shortly. However you do want to make sure you deal with the foam properly. Foam begets more foam. Therefore, adding beer to the foam glass will only create more foam and waste more beer. So pour that first foam into a spare glass and let it settle before adding more. To minimize the head. Tilt your cup at a 45 angle as you first fill. This allows the beer to roll around the cup as it pours. As your glass fills you will return it to a vertical position. There is no rule governing how many pumps per pint you need. Instead monitor the flow of beer. If your beer is expelling too fast and you see foaming, do not pump anymore. Some kegs have a pressure release valve that you can open by pulling the metal ring attached to it. If your once-steady stream of beer has slowed to a drip. Give your keg a few pumps.

SUMMARY:
Get your cups. Start pouring. Set the foam aside. Pour the beer. Maintain the perfect pour.