Using a small spoon or rounded tool, start forming the eye sockets just under the eye-line. Take care not to gouge the clay. Work carefully and take your time. Try to keep your tool flat on the clay and use small circular movements. Smooth the clay out as you work. The sockets should be deep enough so that the eyes do not protrude from the sculpture. Add brow bones by rolling two small cylinders of clay and attaching them just above the eye sockets. Make sure the clay is workable so you can blend it onto the face. Using a small spatula, slowly work the brow bone into the forehead creating a small ridge. Work until you can't see any creases between the forehead and the brow bone. Form eyelids in much the same way as you made brow bones. Take two small cylinders of clay and place them just under the brow bone and into the eye sockets. Smooth out any seam lines to blend the eyelids into the rest of the face. Repeat the process to form the bottom eyelids. Roll small balls of clay to place into the eye sockets to act as the eyes. Round off the ball and form each eye in its socket. Try to keep the eyes symmetrical as you form them. Form a pyramid from a separate piece of clay and attach it between the eyes. Blend the clay into the face, paying special attention to the bridge of the nose. The bridge should blend evenly with the brow-bones. As you make the nose check the profile of your sculpture. Some noses stick out further than others, and some turn up slightly. Refer to your photo reference to make sure you get the nose just right. The shape of a nose lends character to a face. Play around with different types of noses to see what effects you can create. To make a mouth on your sculpture, scoop out a little clay below the nose. Only take enough clay to form the inside of the mouth. You'll be adding lips to your face with separate pieces of clay. Using the same technique as you did to form the brow bone and the nose, add some clay to form the lips. Roll out a small cylinder and blend it into the face to form the upper lip. Forming a mouth takes a lot of practice. Keep referring to your photo reference and don't be afraid to start over if you need to. To form the bottom lip, leave some excess clay from the upper lip and bend it down, forming a horseshoe shape. Roll another cylinder of clay and attach it beneath the upper lip. Leave a little space between the two lips to make it appear as though the mouth is slightly open. Blend the clay until all the seams are gone. Once you've added eyes, a nose, and a mouth, you might need to go back and build out the rest of the face. Add clay to make a chin, cheeks, hair, or even bulk up the forehead if you need to. When adding clay to your face, make sure you keep blending to make a seamless sculpture. It helps to work the clay a little to warm it up. This way it's easier to mold when you add it. Add ears by making small flat circles and attaching them to the side of the face. Keep the earlobe above the jawline, and connect the top part of the ear on the same path as the eye-line. Sculpt the details of the ear with a small spatula or needle. Before you finish your sculpture, compare it to your photo reference. If you find anything you aren't happy with, go back and re-work it. Stay patient and think of your mistakes as opportunities to improve your skill. Once you're happy with everything, do a final blending pass over your sculpted face. Smooth out any seams, remove any excess clay, and clean up the sculpture. Depending on the clay you used, you can either bake it off to finish your sculpture, or form a mold. Feel free to paint your sculpture, or add decorations to bring your art to life.

Summary: Form the eyes. Make a nose. Hollow out the mouth area. Fill out the face. Fix any mistakes. Add any finishing touches.

Comfort is an important factor when choosing a fishing rod and a rod may feel different in different people's hands. Look for any cracks or poor workmanship in the rod. Defects may make it more likely for the rod to break in the future. If the rod breaks down into more than one piece, attach the pieces in the store and make sure they attach securely with no wiggle room. The guides are the loops that attach the line to the rod. They may be made of any kind of metal or ceramic. The more guides there are the better quality the rod, as the line is more controlled by the rod. Hold the rod at eye level and look down the length of the rod from the tip to the butt to make sure the guides line up properly.

Summary: Hold the rod in your hand. Check for defects. Check the guides.

Once you uncover the eggs, you should not turn them. Lizard eggs begin developing almost immediately and attach to the side of the egg. Use a pencil to gently mark the side of the egg facing you when you found it. This helps you remember the top of the egg so you don't damage the lizard inside. Moving them or rolling them to the other side can damage the embryo and kill the developing lizard. Some lizards will lay their eggs in a pile, which makes them stick together. If you find them early enough, you should carefully separate the eggs, trying not to damage the fragile shells. If they are stuck together, don't force them apart. Separating the eggs help protect them. If one egg dies, mold or fungi from it can infect the healthy egg. The medium, or substance, that you place the eggs on inside the incubation tank is important. It should be able to retain water to help keep the incubator humid. It should be sterile or close to it, and it shouldn't promote growth of mold or fungi. Perlite and vermiculite are common mediums that eggs can successfully incubate and hatch on. These mediums are very similar, and the choice is usually based on preference. You can find these substances at nurseries or home improvement stores with garden centers. Incubation medium goes on the bottom of the container you're placing your eggs in. Place about one to two inches (25 to 50 mm) of medium at the bottom of the container. It is important to keep the incubation medium moist while waiting for the eggs to hatch. Add water until the medium is barely clumping together. It should not be so wet that water drips out of it when it is squeezed. Keep the medium at this moisture level until the eggs hatch. Before you move the egg, make an indentation with your finger in the incubation medium where you want to put the egg. This gives the egg a secure place to lay so it won't roll around and hurt the embryo. This space also allows you to bury the egg slightly. The egg should be about half covered with the medium. Place multiple eggs about a fingers width apart from each other. Place the indentations in a line. When you are ready to move the eggs, use great care. First, make sure your hands are clean. Don't turn or roll the eggs around when moving them. Keep the top of the egg where you made a pencil mark facing up. Place them in the medium inside the container. Don't let the eggs roll around when you move them. If the eggs are stuck on a branch, remove the branch and place it in the incubator. Do not try to remove the eggs from the branch because they will break. Cut the branch as small as possible without disturbing the eggs and try to find a container big enough for the branch too. Close the lid on the container containing the eggs. Then, place the container in the incubator. Write down the date of when the eggs were laid and placed in the incubator, calculate when they should hatch, and mark it on your calendar.
Summary: Mark the eggs with a pencil. Separate the eggs. Choose an incubation medium that will retain water and remain sterile. Keep the medium moist. Make places in the medium for the eggs with your finger. Move the eggs into the container very carefully. Place the container in the incubator.