Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Try to match your lens to your manufacturer. Check if your lens needs an adapter. Check the size and weight. Look for something in your price range.

Answer: If you're buying a lens that isn't a third party lens, it's vital to make sure the camera and manufacturer match. Buying a lens from the same manufacturer as your camera saves you the trouble of getting an adapter. If you can't find a lens from your camera's manufacturer that suits your needs, you can attach an adapter to your lens mount. If you're buying something like a used or vintage lens, for example, you generally need an adapter. A quick internet search for your camera's manufacturer and the words "lens adapter" should lead you to an online site where you can order an adapter. For example, for a Sony camera, you can search "Sony lens adapter." Check the weight and size listed before purchasing a lens. Unless you're a professional photographer, or are working your way towards becoming one, there is no reason to buy a big, heavy lens. Camera lenses with larger apertures and focal lengths are usually bigger and heavier. Unless you genuinely need these special features, smaller is better. You can check the actual weight and size, if they're listed. You shouldn't need a lens more than a few pounds unless you're a professional photographer. Have a rough idea of how much you want to spend going into the shopping process. Lenses with more features may be pricier, and certain manufacturers may charge slightly more for lenses. Fortunately, you do have options if a lens is out of your price range. If you already have a lens adapter, you can simply buy a lens from a cheaper manufacturer. To cut costs, you can look for used or vintage lenses at thrift stores or sites like eBay. Think about which features are most important to you and which you could live without. You may have to settle for a lens that does not provide you with every feature you want.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Lay out and sort your clothes. Get rid of unnecessary items. Put aside clothing you will need immediately. Use old clothing to package breakable items. Leave some items in your dresser drawers.

Answer: Often times over the years clothes can become piled up without you even realizing it. The first step to sort this all out is to get all of your clothes out from your dresser, closet, attic, and below your bed. Lay everything out, either across your floor, or on top of your bed. Begin to pair things together, based on color, size, and fabric. Once you have started to make categories, place each of your articles in select piles. Begin to match box and suitcase sizes. If you have a relatively small pile of specific articles, you can pair that pile with a smaller box. Some of the larger piles might have to be matched with a suitcase or larger box. This is the perfect time to try on some of the old in your closet that you haven't worn in ten years. Check the clothes for mildew, moth balls, flees, bedbugs, etc. Smell them to see if they have a musty scent. Determine whether or not they are outdated. After you search through your closet/cupboard, you should have a pile of outdated, outgrown, and worn out clothes to throw away. Run your fingernail overtop of the fabric. This will help loosen any bugs, or bedbug fecal matter (dried blood) which is present on your clothes. It is best to dispose of these clothes, especially if they are old and haven't been worn in a while. Donate clothing that is still in good shape and does not fit you or is not appropriate for the climate in your new home. Many people like to take clothes to Goodwill or homeless shelters. Throw out clothing that is torn, stained or too worn to wear in public. This is especially true when it comes to any old underwear and socks which have been crammed in your dresser drawer for many years. You will probably not finish all of your unpacking on the first day of your move, so keep a small bag with a few changes of clothes that you can use when you first arrive at your new home. Remember to leave out an outfit for moving day as well, and include undergarments and socks. Pack the items you need upon arrival to your new home in a separate container. This could include not just clothes, but also toothbrushes, deodorant, hairspray, etc. When you move, chances are you will have to move glassware, dishes, etc. Wrap these items in some of those clothes you were going to throw away. Find specific items which fit the shape and size of what you want to wrap. If there are elongated items you can place them in pants legs. If it is a wide plate you wish to wrap, place it in the body of a shirt. Carefully stack these items on top of one another, or side-to-side. Do not throw the items down and break them. You can also add extra layers of old clothes in between the items when you start packing them up. Add a shirt, or an extra pair of pants, in between the items. Pack your glasses or stemware in knee high socks. If you are taking your dresser with you when you move, you can leave some of the items in the drawers. You should leave lightweight items like underwear, socks, t-shirts, etc., while taking out sweatpants, jeans, coats, etc. You then have the choice of taking your dresser as a whole or breaking it down into its component parts. Get people who are big, or who have upper body strength to move the dresser. If your drawers are generally loose, with no locking mechanism, it it best to remove the drawers. You will want to wrap each of the drawers separately, with a large container of plastic wrap. Go around the drawer in both directions, multiple times. Do this until the drawer has been completely wrapped, and all of the contents are secure. If you decide to take the dresser as a whole, you will want to secure the drawers. Take a bungee cord and wrap it all the way around the dresser, overtop of one of the drawers. Hook the two ends of the bungee cord. Then take more bungee cords and wrap it around the other drawers, all the way around the dresser. Safely secure the dresser in the moving van. You can either use bungee cords or lifting straps. Tightly wrap them around your dresser and secure them to the base/side of your truck (on the inside).

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Measure the width of the window to determine the necessary width of the blinds. Mark the smallest measurement, and cut to this. Subtract 1/4-inch from each side to ensure the blinds have room to move up and down. Measure the blinds from the head rail and use a pencil to mark your new desired length. Cut the blind headrail using a hacksaw or tin snips.

Answer:
Typically, a set of inside-mount blinds should measure about 12 inch (1.3cm) less than the width of the window frame. Make sure you measure the inside of the frame, where the blinds actually fit, and not the entire window frame. Measure in at least three places -- the top, bottom, and middle of the window. Most windows are going to have regular, even spacing, but older houses may have some variability. If there is a change, use the smallest measurement taken. This small gap will keep your blinds from getting cut or stuck on the windowsill. Use the measurement found above and mark the headrail (the top of the blinds) at this length. You may either cut an even amount off of both sides or cut only from the pull cord side. If the chords are on one side, you can cut only from the other side. In many ways, only cutting one side is much easier. Simply start sawing to remove the headrail where you noted: Remove the metal end stiffener bracket from the side(s) you are cutting. Use the hacksaw or tin snips to cut the headrail per your measured mark. File any rough edges with a metal file. However, keep in mind that the headrail edges will be covered by the mounting brackets, so a rough cut will not be visible. Replace the metal end stiffener onto the newly cut headrail.