Q: There are a few different reasons why an orchid might not be blooming. The most common reason is that it doesn't have the right light level, so make sure that you check that first. You can look at the color of the leaves. Leaves should be medium-green. If they are a dark, lush green,the plant is likely not getting enough light. If that isn't it, there are a few more things to consider. The orchid might simply be too young. Plants have to be mature enough to bloom and then only during their natural cycle. Your orchid might be overpotted. For best results with orchids, you'll need to make sure that they are tight in their pots. Pots that are too big for the root mass put the orchid in danger of not growing or blooming. Another problem could be that you're using the wrong fertilizer. There could be too much nitrogen, which suppresses blooming. You want a nitrogen phosphorus potassium (or NPK) value of 10:10:10 in your fertilizer. If you're dealing with limp leaves you will want to unpot the orchid and check the root system. If the roots are mushy then a significant root loss has occurred and there are several likely culprits. Overwatering can do this. You can safely water an orchid about once a week, depending on the type and only as long as they are healthy and potted properly. Check the mix to see if it is drying out properly before you re-water. The pot is too large. This can also cause problems with your orchid's roots, because they are expending too much energy trying to maintain their root system rather than caring for leaves and new flowers. Potting mix has degraded. Potting mixes are only good for a certain amount of time before they need to be replaced. Make sure yours hasn't gone past its deadline. While pests are less likely in an indoors orchid, you can still get them in potting mixes and just out of nowhere. Make sure you know how to deal with these nuisances so you can keep your orchid alive and healthy. Aphids target bloom spikes and buds so if you see holes in these areas you might have aphids. Fortunately most insecticides will control these little nuisances. Snails and slugs can get into the potting mixes, so make sure you check the mixes that you're putting your orchid in. They tend to chew on the roots, or on leaves and stems. Again, insecticides can usually take care of this problem, or getting a new potting mix. If your young leaves are getting discolored, and white masses are appearing on your orchid, then you probably have mealybugs. Use insecticides or remedies that contain an oil of some sort because this coats and suffocates the bug. It's also a good idea to repot the plant once you've eradicated the menace. For a home-made insecticide you should mix 9/10 quart of warm water, 1/10 quart of rubbing alcohol, 1 tsp of lightweight oil (Neem Oil is an excellent choice), a few drops of gentle dishwashing detergent. Mix these in a spray bottle and shake vigorously (make sure the cap is on). Spray the orchids.
A: Deal with an orchid that won't bloom. Care for an orchid with limp leaves. Deal with pests.

Article: A traditional conditioner is applied every time you shower, just after you rinse out your shampoo. This type of conditioner works to repair the damage done by hot tools, chemicals, and general wear-and-tear that your hair experiences on a daily basis. Choose a type of conditioner that is advertised for your specific hair needs; whether you have curly and frizzy hair, dry and damaged hair, colored hair, fine hair, relaxed hair, or limp and lank hair, there is a specific conditioner that can help with each. Hop in the shower, and go along with your regular washing routine. You'll condition your hair after you wash it, so give your scalp and strands a good scrubbing with your favorite shampoo. Focus most of your washing power on the scalp, being careful not to tug at your wet hair as you wash as this can damage the ends and cause more breakage. Use warm water to wash out the shampoo. Warm water is safer on your hair than hot water is. Be careful not to tug on the strands if you run your fingers through it. When your hair feels 'squeaky', you've rinsed out all the shampoo. If your hair is sopping wet, any conditioner you try to apply will run right off and won't stick long enough to affect your hair. If your hair is very short, you probably won't have to do much wringing. If, however, you have long hair, spend a bit of time getting as much water out of it as you can. Pour a bit of conditioner into the palm of your hand; the amount you need will vary depending on the length of your hair. A dime-sized amount is usually recommended for professional conditioners, while drug store brands may require more because they can be diluted. If your hair is very long, you may need a whole palm-full of conditioner. Run this through the ends of your hair, trying to apply it to every strand that you're able. Your conditioner should be applied only to the ends of your hair, as this is the part that is damaged (it's the oldest). Putting conditioner near your scalp and roots can actually clog your follicles, and slow hair growth/increase oil production. This step is slightly optional; the longer you wait and allow your conditioner to set, the more it will be able to do to improve the health of your hair. If you're in a rush, you can rinse it out nearly immediately after, but it won't make your hair as soft and shiny as it normally would. Try applying your conditioner, and then washing the rest of your body/face while it sets. Then when you're finished (normally a minute or two later), you can rinse out your conditioner for maximum effect. Assuming you've turned the water temperature back up for comfort's sake, turn it back down as cold as you can handle it. As aforementioned, the cold water is healthier for your hair. Spend a few minutes rinsing out the conditioner; if your hair still feels 'slimy', then you haven't gotten it all out. When your hair is smooth and no longer feels super slippery, then you're set! Wring out your hair and you're done conditioning.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Choose the right conditioner for your hair type. Wash your hair. Rinse out your shampoo. Wring out your hair. Apply your conditioner. Let the conditioner set. Rinse out the conditioner.

Q: If you removed your shutters earlier, pick 1 to start with, and position it against the wall. If you are using pintle hinge shutters, slide a pintle under 1 of the top hinges on your shutter. Start with the top holes in your hinge or shutter, then do the bottom holes. Once you finish the first shutter, move onto the second shutter. For hinges, drill the screws in until they meet with the surface of the hinge. For a seamless finish on stationary shutters, drill the screws until they are about 14 inch (0.64cm) below the surface of the shutter. If you are using shutter fasteners on stationary shutters, lightly tap the fasteners in with a hammer or mallet. Cover the brick wall around each shutter with strips of painter's tape. Apply your desired paint or wood stain, then let it dry. Once it dries, peel the tape off. If you screwed the stationary shutters in rather than using shutter fasteners, fill the holes in with wood putty first. Let the putty dry before painting the shutter. If you used shutter fasteners, you should paint over them so that they match the rest of the shutter. Some window shutters contain extra items, such as holdbacks. Once you have the shutters installed, you can add these extras. Remember to mark the pilot holes with pencil first, and to drill the holes into the brick with a hammer drill and masonry bit. You can add these accessories to stationary shutters too, but they are not necessary.
A:
Replace the shutters or pintles against the wall. Insert the screws or shutter fasteners. Paint or stain stationary shutters, if desired. Add other accessories for hinged shutters, if needed.