Summarize the following:
Any piece of normal paper should do for the purposes of cleaning your eraser. You should avoid paper with a glossy finish, as this kind will be less fibrous. Less fibrous paper could result in your eraser gunk smearing over more of your eraser making more work for you. Paper that is coarse and heavy will allow you to scrub it harder with your eraser without fear of tearing the paper. Coarse paper will also cause your eraser to come apart from the eraser in flecks or eraser shavings. This is ideal, as these shavings will part the gunk from the rest of your paper. You should avoid writing on paper that already has writing on it, including words that have been printed onto paper with a computer printer. The ink from the printer, from pens, or graphite from pencils could cause more gunk to build up while you're trying to remove it. Printer paper, while somewhat smoother than an ideal sheet of eraser purifying paper, should work well enough for purging gunk from your eraser. This paper also has the added benefit of being bright white in color. This will make it easier to tell when your gunk is gone and the eraser erases clean. Inspect your eraser carefully and note the areas that are discolored. These are the areas you will want to target. When the dark spots on your eraser have been removed, your eraser should erase as good as new. Rub your eraser firmly against the clean paper you have chosen and be sure you avoid crossing over the darkened marks that rub off on your paper. Feel the eraser gunk with your fingers. Sometimes the graphite gunk will be soft, like putty. In this case, you might be able to cut through some of the gunk with your fingers or nails. Be careful not to spread the gunk around or push it deeper into the eraser with your fingers. Doing so will make your eraser cleaning more difficult. As you scrub your eraser on the clean page, eraser shavings should come free of the eraser, and with these so too should come the graphite gunk. Brush away shavings regularly to prevent them and the gunk they contain from re-smudging your eraser. A drafting table or an angled desk will allow the force of gravity to help pull many of the shavings free of your paper. You might also hold your paper flat against a wall to get the maximum gravity assistance. You might also need to switch paper, depending on the size of your eraser and the amount of gunk built up on it. When it becomes difficult to rub your eraser on the page without crossing one of the darkened smears, you should get a new piece of paper. A case will protect your eraser from the drying effects of the air or the decay that can be caused by too much moisture. But you don't need a special case to prolong the life of your eraser! Even a normal pencil case can keep dust and other residue from negatively impacting your eraser's efficiency. You can find specialty eraser cases at your local art supply store or through an online retailer. You should especially consider a specialty case if you are an artist and use expensive, high quality erasers for your art. You might store your erasers in a tupperware container, or some other kind of clean, plastic container. This will limit its exposure to harmful elements, like air, dust, and moisture. Keep your erasers separate from your pencils, crayons, and pens. These items can carry dust and grime, or in some cases can create dust and grime, that can hurt your erasers performance. Keep a separate container for your erasers to prevent this. If you are an artist and use your eraser frequently, you may need to purge your eraser of blemishes fairly regularly. But even occasional pencil/eraser users may have to repeat this process several times over the life of the eraser. By purging your eraser of graphite gunk, you will save yourself money and maintain the immaculate quality of your work. If you have a low quality eraser or a soft lead pencil that accumulates gunk quickly, you may want to carry a folded up sheet of clean paper in your eraser case to use on the fly.

summary: Take out a blank, clean sheet of paper. Rub discolored areas on the eraser against your paper. Persist erasing until your eraser is clean all over. Use an eraser case or cover for storage. Repeat this process regularly as build-up occurs.

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If you have metal studs or want to hang your sword where there aren't any studs, you can use drywall anchors to attach your mount to the drywall. Purchase anchors that will fit the size screw that came with your wall hanger or hooks. Drywall anchors can be bought online or at a hardware store. If your sword is heavier than 40 pounds (18kg), you should screw the mount directly into studs rather than using anchors. Hold the mount where you want to hang the sword and mark the screw holes with a pencil or create an indent with a screw. This will let you know where you need to make the holes for your drywall anchors. If you are hanging your sword diagonally, hold the mount on an angle as you mark it. You can use the drywall anchors to hang your sword vertically, horizontally, and diagonally. Read the product description to determine which size drill bit you should use. Hold the drill firmly against the wall where you marked, then carefully press the trigger and keep the drill as straight as possible as you drill through the drywall. Push the drywall anchors into the holes. If the drywall anchors are sticking out, lightly tap them with a hammer to push them in. Drywall anchors will essentially work as a replacement for studs and will keep your sword hung securely on the wall. Screw the hooks or mount screws into the anchors to secure the mount. You can use drywall anchors to attach both hooks and hangers.

summary: Get drywall anchors instead of drilling into your studs. Hold the mount against the wall and mark the location. Drill holes where you marked the wall. Tap the drywall anchors into the holes you created. Screw the mount into the drywall anchors.

Summarize the following:
Farmers can receive subsidies if the price of their crops falls below a certain benchmark set by Congress. However, they must choose to enroll either for Price Loss Coverage or Agricultural Risk Coverage (ARC). Also, ARC comes in two forms. Price Loss Coverage. You receive a payment if your covered commodity is below the reference price. Payments are made on a crop-by-crop basis using your farm's base acreage and program yield. You can enter covered commodities individually. ARC-County option. FSA will estimate crop revenue using the average county yield. You will receive payment if the crop revenue falls below the ARC-County guaranteed revenue. You can enter covered commodities individually. ARC-Individual option. If the actual revenue from all of your covered commodities is less than the ARC-Individual guarantee, then you will receive payment. If you choose this option, then you must enter all covered commodities. Not every commodity is eligible for price loss payments or ARC coverage. Instead, only the following will qualify: barley corn rice (medium grain, long grain, and California medium grain) oats grain sorghum wheat chickpeas (large and small) peanuts soybeans dry peas lentils other oilseeds In order to qualify, you will also need to meet certain Adjusted Gross Income limits and be actively engaged in farming. Talk to FSA staff about whether Price Loss Coverage or Agricultural Risk Coverage is better for you. Once you make a choice, you can't change easily.
summary: Compare the programs. Check if you grow a qualifying commodity. Contact your FSA office.