During its first month or two, the chestnut tree will need 1 gallon (3.8L) (4 L) of water each week. After the first month or two, you should still make sure that the tree receives 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water each week during the growing season. You do not need to water the tree when it loses its leaves and becomes dormant. Weeds and grasses should be kept at least 2 feet (0.61m) (61 cm) away from new seedlings. For established trees, keep the ground bare all the way out to the ends of the tree's branches. The best way to do this is by applying organic mulch around the tree. Mulch also helps the soil retain moisture. An herbicide can be used to get rid of weeds, as well, but you need to protect the trunk of the tree before you apply an herbicide to the area. You can apply fertilizer to the tree on a yearly basis starting its second year outdoors. Do not fertilize the seedling when you plant it. Doing so will encourage leaf production, but the tree needs to focus its efforts on root production during this time. Use a standard fertilizer containing balanced amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (usually labeled as 10-10-10 fertilizer). During the tree's first two or three years, you should train it to follow a modified central leader form. Pick a sturdy central, upright stem. This will be the tree's central leader. Pinch back, bend down, or cut off any other stems that compete with your chosen leader. Major scaffold limbs growing off your main stem should be spaced 1 foot (0.30m) (30.5 cm) apart along the central leader, growing in a spiral rotation. After the tree establishes itself, trim the limbs so that the lowest still gives you enough room to mow under the tree. When the central leader reaches 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) high, cut it down so that it is as short as a side branch. This will allow the tree to grow wider instead of higher. Chestnut blight is the only major disease you will need to worry about, but it can present a significant threat. The fungus gathers around the trunk of the tree, fixating mostly on areas that are cracked or wounded. It eventually develops into a large canker. When the canker wraps all the way around the tree, the tree itself will die. You will need to completely remove the tree and plant any future chestnut trees in a different location. Chestnut blight is almost impossible to treat once it infects a tree, even if you use a strong fungicide. Prevention is your best option. Plant blight-resistant chestnut tree varieties and make sure that the roots are never allowed to sit in soggy, overly-wet conditions. There are several different insect pests that may attack your tree, but the biggest problem is usually the chestnut weevil. Adult weevils lay eggs in developing nuts. When the eggs hatch, the larvae consumes the meat inside of the nut. Get rid of the weevils before they become a problem by spraying the tree with an insecticide once nut burs begin to develop. Alternatively, you can lay a sheet beneath the tree and give the branches a sturdy shake. Most of the weevils should fall off. You can then collect them in the sheet and dispose of it. You need to kill the adult weevils before they can lay eggs. There is no way to remove the pests once they find their way into the nuts.

Summary: Water regularly. Keep the weeds under control. Fertilize during the second year. Train the branches. Watch out for chestnut blight. Protect the tree against insect pests, as well.

Different landlords and property managers may have different expectations for their tenants. Most leases require their tenants to leave rental units clean and undamaged beyond "ordinary wear and tear." While "ordinary wear and tear" can be hard to define, it generally refers to damage that occurs as a result of regular use of a space or appliance, as opposed to damage that results from carelessness, neglect, or intentional abuse. Depending on local landlord-tenant polity, your landlord or property manager may or may not want you to repair minor damage to the property, such as nail holes or chipped paint. Make note of any areas that particularly need to be cleaned, such as smudged or stained walls, dirty cabinets, dirty pet areas, and grimy or mildewed kitchen and bathroom surfaces. Make a list of any notable damage to your unit, such as holes in the screens, missing or damaged blinds, scratches or gouges in the hardwood floors, chipped paint, or marks on the walls that cannot be easily cleaned off. Check your light fixtures, smoke detectors, fridge, stove, and any other appliances that belong to the property in order to make sure that they are working and in good condition. This way you can avoid any unpleasant surprises during the move-out inspection. In general, it is the responsibility of the landlord or property manager to make major repairs or replace broken appliances. However, it is the tenant's responsibility to inform the landlord of these problems as they occur.
Summary: Review the move-out policy in your lease. Examine your apartment for dirt. Examine your apartment for damage. Make sure your appliances are functioning properly. Talk to your landlord about any damage or problems you find.