Problem: Article: Doing so opens the Control Center. It's a button in the right-center of the Control Center. The setting's current status will be displayed below the word "AirDrop." The status will be one of the following: Receiving Off Contacts Only Everyone AirDrop is now off, and your device will not be able to receive photos or other data over AirDrop until you re-enable it.
Summary: Swipe up from the bottom of the screen. Tap AirDrop:. Tap Receiving Off.

Problem: Article: Sketch your design true to size using pencil and a large sheet of design paper or poster board. While more advanced shields may be various shapes, a beginner's shield made in a rectangle is a good way to become familiar with the tools and techniques needed while avoiding more complex work. If you have an electric saw and the know-how to use it, a simple oval or circle pattern works well too. You can also create plans for a design or logo for the front of the shield. You can just paint the entire shield a solid color, but a pattern or design adds character. The size of an authentic shield varies depending on its intended use and the size of the person who will use it. A basic shield should at least be the width of the user's shoulders and the length of the user's torso. Using simple materials will help keep the beginner's shield streamlined and easy to put together. A light weight wood is best, such as plywood or fine particle board. You will want a unfinished wood that is easy to cut and at least half an inch thick and about two feet wide and four feet tall, a standard size available at most lumber yards. While more advanced (and historically accurate) shields generally have leather handles on the inside, beginner fighters can use a handle purchased at a hardware store. It is easier to make and to attach, and simple to hold. Look for a smooth handle that will not hurt your hand if you grasp it tightly, such as a bail pull from the knob and handle section of the hardware store. You will need screws or short nails to attach it to the shield. Using your plans as a guide, trace the design in pencil on the wood, on what will be the back of your shield. You can use a ruler or other straight edge if you've decided to go with a rectangular shaped shield. Use a large compass to make a circle for a rounded shield. If you are not completely happy with your design, trace it again. Don't cut until you're sure! You will need a saw, and although you can use a hand saw, it will be a lot of work. A bandsaw is ideal. Go slowly for accuracy and safety. How you attach the handle depends on how securely you need it to stay in place. If you are not going to use the shield roughly, you can secure the handle using small nails or screws. Otherwise, if the shield will see a lot of action in battle, secure it using bolts. You can use a solid color paint, or create a replica design from a historic time period. You can also create your own coat of arms to feature on the front if you are artistic. Sand any rough spots or edges before painting, then apply a thin layer of primer, which will help the paint to adhere. After it is dry, apply another layer of primer and let dry. Apply a thin layer of paint in your color of choice. You can use either oil- or water-based paint, but it is important that you use the same kind for both primer and paint or the paint will peel off. After the first layer of paint dries thoroughly, add another layer if you prefer, then let it dry before hand painting on details. Remember to use oil- or water-based paint for the detailing, too, according to what you used for your primer and base color. Add a layer of polyurethane coating once everything else has dried, and let it sit for 48 hours to cure. The polyurethane will seal the paint in so that it does not chip.
Summary: Develop a design. Select and purchase your materials. Trace the design on the shield. Cut the design out. Attach handle. Decorate the front of the shield.

Problem: Article: Use a slip knot to tie the yarn onto the crochet hook. Slide the hook into the first stitch you plan to work with for your design. More specifically, insert the hook through the back horizontal bar of the stitch you're working over. If you're familiar with standard single crochet, this back horizontal bar will be treated as the top portion of the stitch you'd usually work with. Yarn over the tip of the hook from back to front while the hook is still behind the overall piece. Pull the hook and this yarn-over back to the front of the piece, creating a loop in the process. There should be two loops on your hook after this step. Wrap the yarn over the tip of the hook again, working from back to front. Grab the previous yarn-over with the hooked tip and carefully pull it through both loops on the hook. This completes one surface single crochet. Note that there should be one loop left on your hook when you complete the stitch. Work as many single surface crochet stitches as needed to complete the desired surface pattern. You will essentially be working a row of standard single crochet. Instead of inserting the hook through the next stitch in the row, though, you'll be inserting the hook through the next stitch of the piece you're decorating. When you reach the end of the pattern, cut the yarn, leaving a 4-inch (10-cm) tail. Grab this tail with your crochet hook and pull it through the final loop on your hook. This should get rid of the last loop on your hook and tie off your project. Note that you should also weave in the loose tail end to hide it and help prevent the stitches from unraveling.
Summary: Attach the yarn to the hook. Insert the hook through the first stitch. Pull up a loop. Yarn over the hook. Pull the yarn through. Repeat as needed. Fasten off the yarn.

Problem: Article: Tuck the sleeves inside the shirt first, so that you have nice, curved edges for the arm holes. Place the shirt on top of the craft foam. Trace around the shirt, including the arm holes, stopping a few inches below each arm pit. This will be the base for your chest plate. If you can't find craft foam, thin, flexible cardboard may also work. Make sure it's white. Stay on the safe side, and add a few extra inches to the top of the shoulders. Test it over your own chest. The top edges should wrap over your own shoulders. The bottom edge should extend a few inches past your armpit. Don't worry about it wrapping all the way around your torso. Make sure that the breast cups are touching each other in the middle (this forms the cleavage). The top edges of the breast cups should be just below the arm pit of the chest plate. The bottom edges will likely hang over the bottom edge of the chest plate. The thinner part of the breasts should be pointing upwards. The thicker, fuller part should be pointing downwards. Once the glue dries, flip the chest plate over. Trim off the excess chest plate until you can see the entire inside of each breast cup again. This will make the breasts more comfortable to wear, especially if you are a girl.
Summary:
Trace the upper part of a t-shirt onto a sheet of white craft foam. Cut the chest plate out. Glue the breast cups to the bottom of your chest plate. Trim off the excess chest plate behind the breast cups.