Article: The laminator may heat up in as little as 30 seconds, but it can take as long as 10-15 minutes with larger machines. Typically, the laminator will have an indicator light to tell you when it's warmed up. Laminators use heat to activate the glue in the lamination pouches, so you must wait for it to get warm! You need more heat for a thicker pouch. Check the chart that came with your laminator to see what temperature you need to use with the pouch thickness you've chosen. Change the temperature to match. If you have a fancy laminator, it may adjust the temperature on its own. Alternatively, if you have a cheaper laminator, you may not have heat settings, and the laminator may only handle thinner pouches. Some machines only have 3-millimeter and 5-millimeter options. More expensive laminators may allow you to change how fast the pouch goes through the laminator. Typically, pick a lower speed for a thicker pouch, but check the chart that came with the laminator to see the best speed for the thickness you chose. The laminator automatically grabs the pouch and feeds it through the machine, and the speed is how fast the machine does that. Cheaper laminators will likely not have this option, which is another reason you may only be able to use thicker pouches with these. Carefully pick up the pouch, trying not to move the papers inside around. Feed the edge into the slot in the machine between the rollers. Don't force it in. It will grab the edge and roll it through itself. Feed the pouch in as straight as you can. If you put it in at an angle, you may end up crumpling it. Some machines have guides along the edge to help you. This will take a minute or two, so be patient. Don't try to force it through the machine faster, as you'll likely cause a jam. The page will come out hot from the laminator, so let it sit for a minute or two. Then, trim around the edges of your paper. Typically, the seal will hold a bit better if you leave a little of the plain lamination around the outer edge of the paper.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Turn the laminator on and wait for it to heat up. Adjust the temperature based on the thickness of the pouch. Match the speed to the thickness of the pouch. Place the folded edge of the pouch into the rolling part of the machine. Wait until the pouch has gone completely through the machine. Let the page cool before trimming it.
Article: This is an ideal process if you want to create a white, aged or mineralized look. You may even be able to create a little bit of rust in some areas. Choose 80-grit sandpaper. Rub away at the surface until the shininess and slickness of the finish is gone. Wipe down the piece to clear away any debris. You may also want to spread a plastic sheet on the ground to protect it from exposure to the chemicals. Wear safety glasses, gloves, and a long-sleeved shirt. Toilet bowl cleaner can be pretty strong stuff. It can ruin your clothes and irritate your skin and eyes if you come in direct contact. Hold the bottle with one hand and move the metal so the liquid pours over the surface of the metal until it is completely coated. Dip a steel wool pad in the cleaner and rub it all over the metal object. Be sure to get any handles or similar areas as well. Apply cleaner as needed until the entire surface is covered. You will be able to actually see the metal aging before your eyes. If you aren't happy with the results, let the metal soak a bit longer. You can use your rubber gloves to help wipe away the cleaner as you rinse. Be sure all of the chemicals are removed and disposed of safely. Dry the metal off before using.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Find a galvanized or grey metal object. Sand the surface of the metal with a sander or sanding block. Place the metal object in an open or well-ventilated area. Pour an acid toilet bowl cleaner on the metal. Allow the cleaner to sit on the object in a fairly even layer for 30 minutes. Rinse off the metal object.
Article: Most of the basic thermal greases contain silicone and zinc oxide, while more expensive compounds contain heat conductors such as silver or ceramic. Silver or ceramic thermal greases facilitate more efficient heat transmission. However, the basic thermal grease will sufficiently fill the needs for most applications. If you are planning on overclocking your computer, try to get thermal paste composed mainly of silver, copper, or gold. These are the most conductive metals commonly used in thermal paste. Wipe the surface lightly with a cotton ball or cotton swab dampened with isopropyl alcohol. The higher the percentage of alcohol the better. 70 percent is good but 90 percent is better (if you can find it). Ideally, the two touching surfaces will be perfectly flat, which would completely eliminate the need for thermal paste. If your heat sink base is rough, you can wet-sand it with fine grit paper or emery cloth it to make it smoother. This isn't necessary unless you are aiming for the ultimate in cooling performance. Thermal paste is designed to fill in the gaps and imperfections on the surfaces that you are joining. Since modern production techniques cannot make surfaces without imperfections, thermal paste will always be necessary.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Choose a good thermal paste. Clean the CPU and heat sink surfaces. Sand the heat sink and processor surfaces if necessary.