Headers take data every time the message is sent and received. This means that messages that have gone back and forth can contain extremely long headers, as information is added each time it is sent, received, sent back, received again, and so on. There are several entries that are likely to be of the most interest to the average user. Reading these gives you a run down of where the email was sent and how long it took. This can be useful for dealing with connection issues or for determining where an email originated from. Delivered-To: This is the address that the email was sent to. Received: This shows the IP address that received the email message (the recipient's email service) as well as the time. Return-Path: This is the address that sent the message. Message-ID: Shows a unique number to identify the message. From, Subject, To: This is the information entered by the sender. It shows the sender's name, the email subject line, and the recipient's name.
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One-sentence summary -- Understand how headers are added. Parse basic information.

Find a comfortable position where you can stay without moving for 20 or more minutes. Stretch your back before you begin, if you have been sitting all day. Twisting from the waist to the left and right in a seated position or doing yoga cat/cow and child's poses can release tension so that it is easier to focus on the meditation. Relax your shoulders. Lift them up to your ears as you breathe in, then drop them back down. Keep your back very straight. Place your hands in your lap. Zazen meditation suggests that you place your left hand in your right hand, palms up and place your left thumb on top of your right thumb, as if you were cradling an egg. This should make a circle, suggesting infinity and also the unconscious--your non-dominant side being allowed to take over. Some meditators find it difficult to mediate with their eyes open, while some struggle to meditate with their eyes closed because drowsiness becomes too much of a problem. Consider actively focusing on "nothing." Look not at the blank wall, but through the wall. Blink when you need to blink. Most meditation is not more complicated than sitting quietly and breathing, when you get right down to it. Within that simplicity, however, is endless complexity. Begin counting down from 10. You can focus on the counting to get your mind to start calming. If you have more time and this practice is helpful, consider counting down from 50 or 100. Breathe in deeply for a count of 8 seconds, hold the breath for 2 to 4 seconds, and breathe out over a count of 8 seconds. Repeat this breathing pattern for 2 minutes. Feel the breath coming into your body and going out of your body. Imagine the oxygen filling your body and coursing through your blood. Feel the oxygen come into all the parts of your body, and continue focusing on your breath.
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One-sentence summary -- Sit on your cushion or chair. Close your eyes or focus them on a blank wall. Focus on your breath.

Every yarn has a gauge (also known as a "tension"). This number refers to the number of stitches per inch. Every pattern will tell you what gauge of yarn to use for the project; make sure you utilize the correct gauge or your final product will come out looking completely different from your pattern. The gauge does not reflect the size of the completed garment. To measure your yarn's gauge yourself, count the number of stitches over 6 inches (15cm), then divide that number by 6. Your answer will determine the gauge of your yarn. Just because two different yarns share the same gauge does not mean they will function the same within the confines of a pattern. Texture, drape, fiber and other factors also affect on the final outcome of your project. Certain yarn weights perform better with certain projects. Lace or cobweb is best to make doilies. Fingering works best to knit socks. Sport is ideal for making baby clothes or blankets. Worsted is used to make blankets and sweaters, and bulky is perfect for scarves and rugs. When working with different yarn weights, make sure you also use the correct needle size and hook size for that yarn. When looking at weights, double check that you are also using the recommended brand for your pattern of choice. When selecting your pattern, decide how you want your finished piece to hang. Depending on whether you prefer flowing or more structured, select your yarn accordingly. For a very dense drape, select a very thin yarn. For a more relaxed drape, select a thicker yarn and use large needles to create large stitches. Most patterns recommend working with a specific yarn and it's important to take this seriously. Using the wrong yarn can completely alter your pattern, and since different yarns have different elasticity, you may find yourself running out of yarn altogether. To avoid running out of yarn, buy extra. Most yarn stores have a flexible return policy, and if not, you can always use your extra yarn in another project. If you are going to substitute yarn, make sure you replace your yarn with a yarn of a similar elasticity. Inelastic yarns include silk, linen, hemp, alpaca, tencel, bamboo, cotton and rayon.
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One-sentence summary -- Choose your yarn based on gauge. Choose your yarn based on weight. Choose your yarn based on drape. Choose the yarn recommended by your pattern.

Use anywhere from 5 to 15 sheets, depending on how thick your paper is and how many pages you want your notebook to have. Try printer paper, loose leaf, cardstock, scrapbook paper, drawing paper, handmade paper, or a variety of paper types. Use a stiffer piece of cardstock for the cover, in the color of your choice. Saddle-stitched notebooks work best when they're left thin. Avoid overstuffing your notebook since it won't lay flat when it's done. If you're using lightweight paper like printer paper, feel free to use up to 15 sheets. For thicker papers, use only 5 or 6 sheets for your notebook. To determine how many pages your notebook will have, multiply the number of sheets you're using by 2. Each piece of paper will be folded in half, so if you start with 8 sheets of paper you'll have a 16-page notebook. If you want to use differently-sized sheets of paper or cardstock for the cover, trim the larger sheets down to the same size as the smaller ones using a paper cutter. If you want a rustic-looking notebook, some slight variations in size can look nice in the finished product. The soft edges of handmade paper can look especially pretty amongst other types of cut paper. If you want a neat and orderly notebook of all the same paper type, stick with a standard paper size so you don't have to do any cutting. Place the sheets of paper in a stack on a cutting mat, then lay the cover on top. Arrange the stack so that the long sides run parallel to your body. Adjust the pages until the top, bottom, and sides are perfectly lined up beneath the cover. Place 2 binder clips on either side to hold the stack in alignment. Think of the stack of pages as if it's a book with a spine is running down the middle. The back cover should be to your left and the front cover should be to your right.
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One-sentence summary --
Gather a few sheets of paper and a cardstock cover. Cut the pages and cover down to the same size. Stack the sheets and cover together and secure them with binder clips.