Article: Only an experienced operator should attempt to dig a trench with a machine. These machines are very physically demanding, and can be extremely dangerous for an unskilled user. All ordinary trench safety precautions apply as well. This includes calling 811 or another utility location service before you begin, and having plans to shore up the trench walls if necessary. Choosing a machine will depend on your budget and the size of the desired trench. Plotting the route of your trench with highly visible marking paint and thinking about the depth of your trench will help you determine the best trencher for your job. Most projects will only require a walk-behind trencher. Walk-behind trenchers can dig up to 3 feet deep and between 4-6 inches wide On average, a ride-on trencher can dig up to 7 feet deep and about 13 inches wide. Ride-on trenchers are the largest available commercially, but due to potential safety concerns, these are usually only rented to professionals. You can contract a landscape company that installs sprinklers or a utility installation company to use this tool on your behalf. Most hardware stores will allow you the option of renting a machine for a few hours, a day, or even a week. Unless you have considerable trenching to do, or unless you have future projects requiring a trencher, renting might be the best option for your project. Trenchers cost anywhere between $900 and $1 million to buy, and at least $70 to $200 to rent for a day or two, plus the cost of transport. You may also find a more affordable trencher through online services, like Craig's List or eBay. If you decide to operate a trencher, you might consider taking a free trench safety class. The main points you want to keep in mind are the stability of your trench, your footing, and the consistency of the soil, which will influence the effort you and your trenching machine will have to exert. Rocky soil or roots can cause stones or grit to become airborne, so it is recommended you wear safety glasses while operating your trencher. There is also considerable danger from the rotating digging chain, and from the risk of the heavy, powerful machine getting away from you. Each machine will be different, but most will have an ignition switch, a choke, and an engagement lever, which you will manipulate to control the trencher. Due to variations in make and model, it is safest to familiarize yourself with operation manuals before use. If you have rented your trencher, do not leave the rental yard without a demonstration of the machine's operation, including a check that all safety and shut off switches are working properly. You should also have access to a copy of the manual, although you may be able to find this online by searching for the make and model information. Be sure to keep all other people and pets far away while the machine is running. During operation, if you need to clear debris from a stuck chain or trench, or leave the machine for any reason, always shut off the machine completely. Never leave the machine running while you are not operating it. Even if the chain is disengaged, the machine can cause severe injury or death. You'll want to double check that your path is clear, but now that you're aware of the basic functions of your trencher, turn on the ignition, pull out the choke, and position the digging chain where you want your trench to begin. Pull the engagement lever/switch (depending on model) and walk slowly backward along the trench path you have plotted. As operating this machine requires you to walk backward, be careful not to trip and hurt yourself or do damage to your trenching machine. Large roots or stones might have to be cleared by hand. If your trencher stops for an unknown reason, turn the machine fully off, remove it from your trench, and explore with hand tools, clearing any obstructions with your shovels, Pulaski digging tool, or pruning shears.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Evaluate your abilities. Consider the machine you will need. Decide to buy or rent the machine. Take safety precautions. Learn to properly operate the machine. Do not run the machine with people nearby. Position and prime your machine. Engage your machine and trench.
Article: To personalize your goldfish, think of a name that suits it. Look at how it swims, what it does, and how it looks and think of a name that would fit its character. If you give it a unique name, you may even be able to say the name as a cue when you train it. Some common goldfish names are Bubbles, Comet, and Spot. Even though you may not know the history of your goldfish, doesn't mean that he doesn't have one. Use your imagination and think of their backstory. Come up with a tale about how he was born, who their parents were, and how he ended up in your house. Think about the perilous journey and all the miles your goldfish must have swum. You can write a short story or draw pictures showing your goldfish's journey. Interact with your goldfish by talking to it. It may not understand what you are trying to say, but treating it like a pet will make you appreciate it more. Goldfish are living beings and should be treated with respect just like any other animal. If you have no one to talk to, you can get your troubles off your chest by talking to your goldfish. Even though they may not understand you, your goldfish will appreciate your company. While goldfish can live to be over ten years old, many common household goldfish do not make it that far. Instead of flushing deceased goldfish down the toilet, create a memorial or give it a proper burial in your backyard. Get your family to come out and say a couple of words about the fish so that it will be remembered. Bury passed-away goldfish with their favorite stone or decoration from the fish tank.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Give your goldfish a name. Create a backstory for your goldfish. Talk to your goldfish. Memorialize old goldfish.
Article: Place a framing square near the end of a 2 x 12 (38 x 286 mm) board, leaving a few inches at the end before the end of the square. Use the individual rise and run figures marked on the outside scales of the square that matches your desired measurements. These figures should touch the upper edge of your board. The short end of the square (tongue) should be on the rise measurement. The long end of the square (body) should be on the run measurement. The board should be at least 12 inches (30.48cm) longer than the planned length of the stringer, just to give yourself some play. Move the square down to extend the run line to the lower board edge, if necessary. This is the outline of your top stair. Slide the framing square along the board so your scale run figure touches the end of your first marked run line. Double check that your rise and run figures are lines up with the top edge of the board and then mark your second stair. Continue down the board, making sure to line up the scale's rise and run figure at the top edge. Mark the new outline and repeat until you have marked 1 extra pair of runs and rises. In order to make the first step the same height as the others, you need to subtract the depth of the thread from the rise, so the finished stair is still 7 inches (18cm). Simply make another mark to the right of the run line that is parallel and equal to the thickness of the thread. This marks the stringer bottom.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Start laying out the first stair. Mark the outline along the square's outer edges. Lay out the rest of the stairs. Mark the bottom of the stringer.