Problem: Article: When selecting a caulk for your shower, use one labeled "Tub and Tile" or "Kitchen and Bath," as these are chemically formulated to resist mildew and to stick to smooth surfaces like your shower. In particular, there are 2 types of caulk usually used for showers: Silicone: This is a very flexible, tough, and waterproof caulk. On the downside, it can also be difficult to smooth and may require the use of mineral spirits to clean up. The color range can also be fairly limited. Acrylic latex: This caulk is easier to apply, clean up, and smooth out. It also comes in a wider range of colors. However, it dries harder and shrinks more than silicone caulk does, so acrylic latex caulk will probably have a shorter lifespan. Cheaper guns tend to be less predictable and may lead to sloppier application. A professional-grade gun applies more consistent pressure. A cradle caulk gun will produce the best, most even pressure and is a better long-term investment than a frame caulk gun. If using the latter, though, get one that is labeled as being "dripless." A professional level caulk gun typically does not cost a lot. Power caulk guns can be very pricey, but all you need is a professional hand-powered caulking gun, which might fit into your budget better. Trim it near the tip, cutting it off at a 45 degree angle. The hole should be smaller than the joints you are sealing. As a general rule, the hole of the tube should actually be 2/3 the size of the joint you are filling. The measurement for most showers should be about 316 inch (0.48cm). Use a utility knife with a fresh blade or a 1-inch (2.5-cm) wide, razor-sharp chisel to cut the tip off the nozzle. Some tubes of caulk will even have a line on the nozzle to indicate the point at which you should cut. Smooth out the edges of the tip after cutting it off, if necessary. If a piece of plastic remains hanging on the nozzle after being cut, pare it down with your utility knife or a piece of sand paper. Otherwise, this little burr can prevent the bead from being smooth. Push a nail or small dowel down inside the tip of the caulk to puncture the seal. The seal is at the back end of the tip where it meets the tube. This releases the caulk into the tip and allows you to apply it. If a nail does not prove long enough, use a thin, stiff wire, such as electrical wire or a coat hanger. How you insert the tube depends on what type of gun you have. In most cases, you will start by pulling the plunger of the gun out to its fully extended position. Then put the tube in the chamber of the gun and push the plunger down into the core of the tube until it stops. In some cases, once the plunger is in place it will put enough pressure on the tube that caulk will start coming out of the tip right away. Just be prepared for this and catch any caulk coming out with a moist rag. After placing your caulk tube in the caulk gun, give the handle a slight squeeze to begin the flow of the caulk. Release the pressure off the handle once you see the caulk at the tip and clean off any excess with a moist rag. This brings the caulk right up to the tip of the caulk tube, so it will be ready when you bring it up to the shower joint.
Summary: Pick a caulk that is made for use in showers. Pick out a professional-grade caulk gun. Trim the nozzle of the caulk container. Puncture the inner seal in the caulk tube. Load the tube into the caulk gun. Give the handle a little squeeze.

Problem: Article: Connect the voltmeter's terminals to the input and output terminals on the pot. Turn the voltmeter on and turn the dial to feed a signal. Turn the knob on top of your pot to adjust the signal. If the signal reading on the voltmeter goes up and down when you turn the knob, your potentiometer works. If the voltmeter registers a signal from your pot but the device doesn't work when you turn your electronic on, then there's an issue with the connections you soldered. Turn your electronic device on and feed a signal to the pot by playing some music, hitting a guitar note, or turning a light on. Twist the shaft to the left to turn the audio or light down. Twist the shaft to the right to raise the volume or level of light. Twist the shaft all the way to the left to turn the output off. You can now use your pot to modify the amount of resistance that your signal receives. You can install a potentiometer with the shaft bare and exposed if you want. But if you want to upgrade the aesthetic of your potentiometer, you can always get a knob. There are tons of knobs on the market designed to slide over the shaft of a pot and make them look better. Search online or take you pot to an electronics store to see what options are available for your make and model.
Summary: Test your pot to make sure that it's working with a voltmeter. Adjust the signal on your device by turning the shaft. Add a knob by sliding it over the potentiometer if you want.

Problem: Article: Heat until the temperature reaches 120 to 130 F (50 to 55 C). Check the temperature with an instant read thermometer. Don't have a thermometer? The water is ready about a minute after it hits the definitely-hot-but-I'm-not-burning-myself stage. At 120 the water is touchable. At about 130, it hits the point where you can't touch it without burning yourself. You want it somewhere in that frame. You know -- one of those ones with a dough hook, like a KitchenAid. It can be done without one, but your forearms are gonna be aching in the morning. That dough hook will make everything much easier. On low speed, combine the dry ingredients until they are well combined. Make sure the egg is fully incorporated into the dough. The dough should be slightly sticky or tacky, only lightly sticking to your fingers when you touch it. This should take about 5 minutes. Obviously it'll take longer if you're doing it by hand. Leave it to rise for about 10 minutes on the counter or on top of the stove. A "warmish" spot is ideal. For the bread to adequately rise in the oven, it needs to go through two rounds of rising beforehand. To make old-fashioned pan rolls, pinch off dough the size of a small ball, comfortably fitting in the palm of your hand. Roll the ball of dough between your hands until rounded perfectly. Continue until all the dough is shaped into dinner rolls of roughly the same size. This recipe should warrant 12-15 rolls. You want them to almost double in size -- which should take about 30 to 45 minutes. While you're waiting for this, preheat the oven to 375 to 400F (190 to 200C). Then, if you'd like, take them out of the oven and brush the tops with melted butter for extra flavor and softness. And then serve almost immediately. Brush with butter if you'd like, not take them out of the oven if you'd like. Well, you could keep them in the oven, but then you'd never be able to eat them, so where's the fun in that?
Summary:
In a saucepan, combine the water and shortening or butter. Get out your mixing bowl and heavy-duty mixer. Add the dry milk powder, yeast, sugar, salt and flour to bowl. Add the warm water and egg, mixing until a soft dough starts to form. Add more flour, if needed, to make a soft dough. Knead the dough, using the dough hook, until satiny. Turn out your dough into a clean mixing bowl and cover with plastic wrap. When 10 minutes is up, remove the wrap, spray your hands with nonstick cooking spray and punch down the dough. Shape dough as desired. Place rolls in a baking pan sprayed with nonstick cooking spray and let rise. Bake rolls until golden brown, about 15 minutes.