Insert the hollow end of the bit into the drill. The Phillips head should be facing outwards. If you have a Phillips head screwdriver, that will work as well. Inside of the square bracket, you should see 1 or more screws. Place the end of the Phillips head screwdriver or bit into the end of a screw. Hold onto the bracket with 1 hand as you unscrew each bracket. If you are using a drill, set the drill to reverse and press down on the trigger to remove the screw. If you are using a screwdriver, turn the screw counterclockwise until it pops out of the wall. Once the screws are out, take the bracket from the wall. If you are getting rid of the blinds, you may throw out the brackets. Otherwise, save the brackets for later use. If you need to save the brackets and screws, place them in a plastic zip bag. Mark the bag with the location of the blinds so that you do not lose them. If you labeled your mini blinds, write the same label on the bag with the brackets. For example, if you marked your blinds as "kitchen door blinds," label the bag with the same thing.
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One-sentence summary -- Fit a drill with a Phillips head bit or find a screwdriver. Unscrew the bolts with the drill or screwdriver. Repeat until each screw is removed. Put the screws and the brackets in a bag to keep them.

Once again, go over the surface with the shoe brush to fluff up the nap that's been weighed down by the dye. It may help to waft a hairdryer over the shoes while you do this to make sure every last fiber is completely dry. If you're using the same brush as before, clean it thoroughly with warm soapy water or acetone to strip the remaining dye before putting it to work again. A quality silicone or acrylic waterproofer will help preserve the updated color. Hold the can 68 inches (1520cm) away from the shoe and mist on a light, even coating. Once the waterproofing has dried completely (which could take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour), you'll be able to model your new shoes with confidence. Aim for full coverage from heel to toe, but avoid oversaturating the suede. The clear, odorless waterproofing agent works by filling in the tiny gaps in the soft fabric, creating a barrier that repels water. Brush out the suede every once in a while to dislodge clinging debris. To deal with stains and buildup from other substances like mud, it's best to lightly scrub the suede with a modest amount of water, as you did with your preliminary cleaning. The wisest course of action, however, is to keep them from getting dirty in the first place. Excessive moisture could simply spread the stain around, or worse, cause the dye to bleed. Even with the waterproofing spray, the dye will be prone to running when exposed to moisture. Save your refurbished footwear for clear days, and do your best to steer clear of puddles, sprinklers, wet grass, and other watery pitfalls. When worn cautiously, you can get many more years of use out of your favorite shoes. Dyed athletic shoes could become blotchy or faded after a few sweaty workouts. It may be a good idea to keep a spare change of shoes with you if the forecast is calling for rain. Pick up a drawstring dust bag and make it a point to keep your shoes in it when you're not wearing them. Once safely inside the bag, the shoes should find their way to the top shelf of your closet or another cool, dry place where they're unlikely to encounter any messes. Leave the mouth of the bag slightly open, or take the shoes out periodically to give them a chance to breathe. With a dust bag, you won't run the risk of drying out the suede or trapping unwanted moisture when the shoes remain in storage for long periods of time, unlike a lidded shoebox or sealed plastic bag. Consider investing in a shoe tree. Shoe trees allow footwear to be hung up on "branches" that are similar in dimension to feet, so they'll always retain their shape and can easily be moved in and out of storage. For added security, a dust bag or pillowcase can be slid directly over the entire shoe tree.
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One-sentence summary -- Buff the shoes to touch up the suede. Treat the shoes with a waterproofing spray. Clean your dyed shoes carefully. Avoid wearing the shoes in wet conditions. Store your dyed shoes somewhere with good ventilation.

Buy a tube of pure silicone from a home improvement store; it usually comes in a syringe-like container. Squeeze some of the silicone out into a disposable dish. You will need enough to cover whatever you wish to mold. You may also find construction silicone labeled as silicone caulk. Make sure that it is not the quick-set type. If the silicone did not come with a syringe, you will need to get a caulking gun first. Insert the tube into the gun, cut the end off, then poke a hole in the tip. If you can't find any cornstarch, try cornflour or potato starch instead. Keep the box handy; you might need to use more. If you want a more colorful mold, add a few drops of acrylic paint. This will not make the mold any more or less effective. Keep kneading until the silicone and cornstarch come together and form a putty. It may be dry and crumbly at first, but keep kneading. If it is too sticky, add some more cornstarch into it. You may have some cornstarch leftover in your dish; this is fine. The silicone will have picked up all the cornstarch it needed. Start by rolling the silicone putty into a ball between your palms. Next, place it on a smooth surface, and gently press down on it to flatten it slightly. It still needs to be thicker than the item you wish to mold. Make sure that you are pressing it design-side-down into the mold, and that the back is visible. Use your fingers to push the edges of the mold against the item; you do not want to see any gaps. This will only take about 20 minutes or so. You are ready for the next step when the mold is rigid. It should still be flexible, but you should not be able to dent it or form it. Hold the silicone mold by the edges, and gently bend it back and away from your item. Flip the mold over to pop the item out. If you need to, use your fingers to pry the item out. You can push pieces of wet clay into them, then pull them out and let them dry. You can also pour resin into the mold, let the resin cure, then pop it out as well. De-mold any castings the same way you de-molded your initial object.
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One-sentence summary -- Squeeze out some construction silicone into a dish. Pour in twice as much cornstarch. Put on a pair of plastic gloves and knead the two together. Roll the silicone into a disk. Press the item you wish to mold into the putty. Wait for the silicone to cure. De-mold your object. Use the mold.

There are many different types of sealant you can use. It depends on how aesthetically concerned you are about your smoke bombs. The simplest method is to apply a small strip of tape over the opening. You could also seal the hole by using tissue paper and a glue stick. Cut the tissue paper a little larger than the shell's opening. Use standard tissue paper like you'd use to wrap a birthday present. You can use different colors of tissue paper if you want. You can take this in any direction you want. If you'd like a simpler design, draw something with a marker. You could also paint a fun design using watercolors. Remember you're going to ultimately break this, so don't become too invested in your design. Be careful when decorating; the egg's shell is still very fragile. This step is optional.
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One-sentence summary --
Gather the sealant. Cut tissue paper. Decorate your smoke bomb.