Article: When it comes to working with an acetylene-oxygen torch, you can never be too careful. Put on all of your safety equipment and check your work area one more time for combustible materials. Open the acetylene valve again, allowing the oxygen remaining in the mixing chamber to purge for a few seconds, then shut the valve until you can barely hear gas escaping. Hold your striker in front of the torch tip and squeeze the handle. A small yellow flame should appear at the tip when the sparks from the striker ignite the acetylene. Using matches or a cigarette lighter is very dangerous. A striker is a tool made especially for igniting torches, and using one reduces the risk of serious injuries. Make sure the flame begins at the torch tip. If the flow of acetylene is too strong, the flame will "jump", or be blown away from the tip. This can lead to an unpredictable cutting edge, which may increase your risk of fire or injury. The flame color will turn from yellow to light blue with a white center as sufficient oxygen is supplied to completely combust the acetylene. Increase the oxygen slowly until the inner blue flame begins to shrink back toward the tip. The length of the inner flame should be just over the thickness of the steel you are intending to cut. For instance, a 12in (1.3cm) inner flame is about right for a 38in (0.95cm) cold-rolled plate or mild steel. If you hear a blowing noise, or the blue flame seems erratic and feathery, there is probably too much oxygen at the flame. Reduce it until the flame is stable and the inner flame is a clean cone shape. The flame doesn't have to sit directly on the surface to cut it. You will need to heat the steel with this flame until a molten pool of metal forms and luminesces at this location. Keep the tip of the flame steady and about 38in (0.95cm) from the metal's surface to concentrate the heat in one location. For room-temperature 14in (0.64cm) plate steel, this should take about 45 seconds. However, it will take longer for heavier material or material at low temperatures. This will ignite the molten steel. If a violent reaction instantly starts, the steel has ignited, and you can gradually increase pressure until the jet is cutting completely through the metal. If no reaction occurs, the metal is not hot enough to ignite. In this case, release the oxygen handle release and continue to allow the flame to heat the metal more. Once the jet is cutting through the steel, start moving the torch along the line you drew. You should observe that almost all of the sparks and molten slag are being blown out the back or bottom of your cut. If this flow of superheated material slows or backs up, slow your forward speed or stop and let the metal heat more. It's better to cut too slowly than to try to cut too quickly. Make sure the slag and any droplets of heated metal do not get underfoot. Even sturdy boot soles will burn through if you find yourself standing on a large piece. First, turn off the torch valve, then turn off the oxygen. Next, turn off the cylinder valves on the oxygen tanks and back out the regulator pressure screw. Repeat this for the acetylene tank. Some models may instruct you to turn off the oxygen before turning off the torch valve. In this case, always defer to the manufacturer's instructions. However, you should be aware that dipping a superheated piece of steel into a bucket or stream of cold water will create an instantaneous cloud of very hot steam. You could also allow it to cool naturally if you aren't in a hurry. If you're using quench- or temper-type steels, allow the steel to cool naturally, as water could cause them to warp.
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Put your gloves and goggles on before lighting the torch. Light the torch with a striker. Adjust the acetylene valve until the flame is about 10in (25cm) long. Turn the forward oxygen valve on slowly. Open the oxygen valve more to increase the flame size. Bring the tip of the inner flame near the surface you are going to cut. Push the cutting valve handle down slowly to release the oxygen jet. Begin moving the torch tip slowly along the line of your cut. Continue cutting until you have parted the metal or finished the cut. Turn off the torch in the reverse order of how you turned it on. Cool the workpiece with plenty of water.
Article: Stand with your feet about shoulder width apart. Don't worry about your arms for the moment, just let them move naturally. When you step out, it doesn't matter which leg you decide to move first. Move your stepping leg about a foot in front of you, and put it across your other leg. Remember to step to the beat. Don't keep your feet too close together. When you take your step, think about walking in the direction you are stepping. Keep most of your weight on the foot you are stepping with. Stand on the balls of your feet when toprocking. This makes it easier to move around and change directions. Bring your leg back to the starting position, and as you do, add a little hop with your back leg. When you return the starting position, your feet should land on the beat. Every time you step in or out, you should be on the beat. As you get better, you can vary your steps so that you land on half beats or quarter beats. Each time you return to the starting position, try varying the size of your hop. Experiment with different hops until you find a style that you like. You can even try a double hop when you return. Do two quick hops back to back before stepping out with your other leg. From the starting position, step with your other leg. Do the exact same thing you did with your first step out. Take your leg and take a step out and across. Keep moving. Once you know how to step out and step back, just keep alternating sides. Arm gestures vary from dancer to dancer. The way you move your arms has a lot to do with your own personal style. The most common movement is to swing your arms out when you step. With your first step out, open your arms as if you're about to hug someone. Hop back and bring your hands together in front of your chest.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Get into the starting position. Step out. Hop back. Step with the other side. Add some arm movements.
Article: While many shoes have a little give for stretching, especially if made from leather, this give isn't much more than "breaking in" the shoe to fit you properly. There isn't enough give to change from one shoe size to another. Also, given the fine shaping of dress shoes, they are often less forgiving with stretching. If the shoes feel too tight, try another pair. For all their glamor and fashion, these shoes are the least comfortable of the bunch. They concentrate your weight on a smaller area than your foot was designed to walk on, increasing pressure and often creating pinch points. They can make balance difficult and sink into soft materials, like sand or turf. Go with low heels or flats as much as possible, especially if you will spend much time on your feet in these shoes. There doesn't seem to be as much space for padding in dress shoes as in athletic shoes, but take all you can get. Any layer of foam or rubber that can cushion the impact between hard pavement and your foot will make standing and walking more comfortable.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Don't purchase shoes that feel too tight, expecting them to stretch to fit. Consider avoiding tall heels, especially high, pointy ones. Look and feel for padding and cushioning.