Pick any one of the 7 striped or 7 solid balls, and position it on top of the foot spot inside of the rack. Many players like to use the 1-ball at the top of the rack, but there are no official rules regarding which ball should go at the apex. This is different from 9 and 10 ball pool, which both require the 1-ball to be at the apex of the rack. Pick any one of the remaining striped and solid balls to put them in the corners to provide an equal chance of one of them going in a pocket. It doesn't matter which number the ball has on it, as long as it isn't the 8-ball. If one of the balls goes into a pocket on the break, the player can choose to keep shooting for that type of ball, or they can choose the other type. For instance, if the solid 6-ball went in the pocket, the player would be able to keep shooting solids or they can choose to shoot stripes instead. If both the striped and the solid balls go in a pocket on the break, the player who shot first gets to choose which type of ball they'd like to continue playing for. Place the balls in any order of solids and stripes, filling in any of the open spaces and making sure not to move any of the previously placed balls. Most players position a solid and a stripe in the lower 2 spots of the inner triangle. Some players choose to alternate between solids and stripes as much as possible to make sure both solids and stripes have an equal chance of going in the pocket on a break. This is done to reduce the likelihood of the 8-ball being pocketed on the break. Skip a row under the apex ball, and place the 8-ball so that it's vertically aligned with the apex ball. If the 8-ball is pocketed on the break, the player who didn't break would receive an automatic win for the game. Placing it in the center of the rack reduces the likelihood of this happening. Push your fingers into the rack under the bottom row of balls, and then slightly push the rack forward. Pull the rack back again so that the apex ball is aligned with the foot spot and the base is parallel to the back of the table. If the table has flaws that prevent you from placing the apex ball directly over the foot spot, the UPA's rules allow you to place it within a dime's radius (half the width of a dime) of the foot spot. Take your fingers out of the rack and place them on either side of the rack. Lift the rack directly up off the table to avoid touching or shifting the balls. If you're having trouble, try lifting the back end of the rack and pushing the apex forward and away from the balls before you lift it up. This will give you more space to move as you lift the rack.
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One-sentence summary -- Place any ball other than the 8-ball inside the triangle at its apex. Place a solid ball in one corner and a striped ball in the other corner. Fill in the space between the corners with the rest of the balls. Place the 8-ball in the center of the third row of the rack. Roll the rack up and down to ensure that it is packed tightly. Lift the rack up off of the table without moving the balls.

Set up your compressed air auto paint sprayer and add your chosen corrosion-resistant, self-etching automotive primer, all according to the product instructions. Hold the sprayer about 6in (15cm) from your practice surface, squeeze the trigger, and use a steady, side-to-side motion to coat the surface. Always maintain this sweeping motion while spraying. A scrap car door from a local junkyard is the best practice material. However, a sheet of scrap steel will also do the job. A sheet of scrap wood or even cardboard is OK if necessary, but the primer and paint won't spread and adhere in the same fashion. The process of loading and using a sprayer varies widely based on the brand and model. Follow the product instructions carefully. Make sure to put on all your safety gear first! Once you've mastered your spraying technique on your scrap material, replicate it on the vehicle. Aim to lay on a thin, even coat, starting at the roof and working down from there. Keep using the sweeping, side-to-side spraying motion throughout. It should take about 10-20 minutes to add a full primer coat to a typical vehicle. Follow the instructions on the container for letting the primer cure. The typical waiting time is 20-60 minutes. After that, repeat the process 1-2 more times, based on the product instructions. After 2-3 coats of primer, the bare metal surface should be fully and evenly covered. Once you're done applying primer, clean the sprayer according to the product instructions. Wait at least 1 hour after applying your last coat of primer, then use 1500-grit wet/dry sandpaper to smooth out the primed surfaces of the vehicle. Work section-by-section, sanding lightly from side-to-side, then up-and-down. Some vehicle painters prefer to use sandpaper with an even finer grit, such as 2000-grit, for this task. It will take longer to do the job, but you'll be less likely to sand off too much. Remember that your goal is just to remove the powdery finish, not to expose the bare metal beneath the primer. Use clean rags slightly dampened with a wax and grease remover, acetone, or paint thinner. Wipe fairly gently in circular motions, just enough to remove any accumulated dust or oil. Give the vehicle at least 5-10 minutes to dry before proceeding.
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One-sentence summary --
Practice your spraying technique on a scrap car door or sheet metal. Apply a primer coat, working from the top of the car downward. Let the primer cure, then add 1-2 more coats as recommended for the product. Sand away the powdery finish of the primer coats with wet/dry sandpaper. Wipe down all primed and sanded surfaces before applying paint.