INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Specialized griddle-cleaning sops will make cleaning your griddle a breeze. If you cannot locate a specialized griddle-cleaning soap from your local home good store, use an extra-strength soap, or one that is designed to cut through layers of grime and grease. A griddle sponge is specialized type of scrubbing device for griddles. Its surface will scour your grimy griddle to remove caked-on bits of grease and burnt material. Griddle sponges are available with varying thicknesses. The more cleaning your griddle needs, the thicker your griddle sponge should be. Do not use steel wool or other abrasive cleaning devices to clean your griddle. For larger griddles, or griddles with grime and crust that simply won't budge even when scrubbed with a griddle sponge, you'll need to invest in something more heavy-duty. For this kind of cleaning, get a griddle brush from your local kitchenware store. A griddle brush is a stiff-bristled brush, typically with a wooden handle, that will help you remove even the most tenacious griddle grime. A griddle scraper is a kitchen tool that resembles a paint remover. From the comfortable handle, a fan-like blade extends outward to a straight edge. It is this edge which is used to scrape the griddle of residue and stuck-on bits.

SUMMARY: Obtain griddle soap. Obtain a griddle sponge. Obtain a griddle brush. Get a griddle scraper.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Work slowly and meticulously to remove the fabric from your furniture by pulling out all the staples/tacks/screws that are holding it in place. Use your flat-head screwdriver or butter knife to carefully pull out every staple. Do not cut any of the fabric to remove it, as you will be using the pre-existing fabric as your pattern for the new upholstering fabric. If you're removing fabric from a couch, you'll need to flip it over and take the fabric off the bottom and back as well. Remove any cushions that might be there, but if they don't have a zipper, you might be able to make a cover for them rather than removing all the current fabric. Side panels of fabric (like on a sofa) may not require fabric removal, because often you can tack your new fabric over the top. Be careful not to cut yourself on the staples or tacks, as these are a very real tetanus threat. Removing the old fabric often exposes the dirty underside of your used furniture; it is best to clean up any messes or dirty areas prior to adding new furniture over the top. For couches, vacuum out the inside of the frame, and spray fabric cleaner onto the cushions and foam to freshen them up. Use a bit of wood oil or cleaner to prepare the wood parts of your furniture, and seal it if necessary. If your furniture was damaged or scratched, you should take time now to repair it and prep it for new fabric. If you want to stain or paint the wood on your furniture, you should do so at this point. Lay out all the fabric you removed from you furniture, making sure that you know which piece goes where (or where it went originally). Layer your new upholstery fabric out, and trace the old fabric shapes onto the new. This will serve as your pattern, and allow you to cut out all the necessary pieces for your project. Once you've gotten all the pieces measured/traced, you can very carefully cut out each section, making sure that you mark or keep track of where on the furniture it will be put. Use fabric shears for cutting your fabric, in order to make smooth, clean cuts. Not all of the fabric you upholster will require sewing, in fact typically only cushion and arm covers or pieces of fabric with corners will require any sewing. Use the original fabric as your pattern, and mimic the same sewing pattern with your new fabric. #*Use a thread that will match the fabric, or use a clear plastic thread. If you're able, use a serger along the edges to prevent the fabric from fraying. Work one section at a time, lining up your new fabric with its corresponding location on the furniture. Use your staple gun with staples of the appropriate length to attach the fabric securely to the furniture. Make sure there are no gaps, and fold/tuck the edges of each piece of fabric to give it a smooth finish. If you need to apply extra layers of batting or cushion, do so prior to re-attaching the fabric. Some fabric will have to be attached using upholstery tacks, but you'll know this based on how the original fabric was attached. When all the fabric has been re-attached to your furniture, you should sew on any piping, buttons, or attach the feet/legs to the bottom of your furniture. This is your chance to make any last-minute changes or to add design details that might not have been on the original piece of furniture. If you decide you're completely finished, give your piece of furniture a once-over to verify that there are no loose threads so-to-speak, and that it's ready to be placed as a permanent fixture in your home.

SUMMARY: Remove the current fabric from your furniture. Clean the furniture. Measure and cut your new fabric. Sew the fabric where necessary. Staple your new fabric to the furniture. Add any finishing touches.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: A film development kit will come with all the chemicals you need to develop your photos. The kit also comes with a development tank with a spiral loaded inside so you can easily load and unload your film strips. Make sure the kit you buy is meant for black and white photography. Development kits can be purchased at photography supply stores and online. Development kits for color film will not work for black and white film since they use different chemicals. If your undeveloped film comes into contact with light, then it could cloud your negatives. Pick a laundry room or bathroom that doesn't have any windows. Cover the cracks between the door and its frame with weather stripping, masking tape, or towels. Wait a few minutes before working in your darkroom so your eyes can adjust. If you don't have a room that's lightproof, you can also purchase a film changing bag that you can put your supplies in without exposing them to light. Do not use a red light in your darkroom. Even though it's seen in movies, it could affect how your film develops. Make sure all of the lights are out before you start working on your film. Hold the film canister upside down so the flat edge faces up. Hold the edge of the bottle opener to the end of the film canister and pry the cap off. Dump the roll of film into your hand. You can also use a film canister opener to access your film. Buy them online or at specialty photography stores. The leading end of the film is slightly narrower than the rest of it. Pull out 23cm (0.791.18in) from the leading end and use a pair of scissors to cut a straight line across the film. The spiral looks like a large spool that sits inside of the development tank. Feel for the protrusions along the edge of the spiral's interior to locate where the film channel starts. Pinch the end of your film strip and pull 1015cm (3.95.9in) of it into the channel directly underneath the protrusions. Rotate the sides of the spiral to feed the rest of the film onto it. When you reach the end of the film, cut the end with a pair of scissors. Many film spools can be pushed or pulled apart to adjust for different film sizes. The development tank is a lightproof container where you'll mix the developing chemicals. Set the spiral on the bottom of the tank so the film is on the side. Place the lid on top of the tank and screw it on to secure it in place. Once the film is secure in the development tank, then you can turn the lights on again.

SUMMARY:
Get a film development kit for black and white photography. Work in a room without visible light so your film doesn't get exposed. Open the film with a bottle opener in the darkroom. Cut the end of the film with a pair of scissors. Feed the film into the slot on the film spiral. Seal the film spiral in the development tank.