Q: Anterior knee pain occurs at the front and center of the knee. Start the floss just below the kneecap. Wrap the floss around your knee, moving up toward your thigh and overlapping each band. Tuck the end into the previous band. Begin the floss on the outside of your leg. Then pull the floss from the outside of your knee, across your leg, and toward the inside of your thigh. Continue wrapping, working downward toward the top of your knee. Tuck the end into the previous band. You shouldn't wrap your knee if you have lateral knee pain. The entire band should be wrapped around your leg just above your kneecap. Start the floss on the outside of your leg, just below your kneecap. Then wrap it over the front of your leg, working toward the inside of your thigh. Overlap the floss as you wrap it, tucking the end into the previous band. Stand with your feet just over shoulder-width apart. Keeping your back straight, bend at the knees until they are just over your feet. Then push into the ground and raise your body back up.
A: Begin wrapping the knee below the kneecap for anterior knee pain. Begin wrapping your leg above the kneecap for lateral knee pain. Use the voodoo floss below your knee for pain under the kneecap. Perform 20 to 30 squats.

Q: Decide what shape you want your tail to be, then draw it onto a large sheet of paper. For a cat tail, you could make a long, skinny rectangle that is rounded at one end. For a fox tail, you could make an elongated almond shape instead. It would be a good idea to add a -inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance to your pattern at this point. If you don't you'll need to add one later. You can pin the pattern to the fur or you can trace it using a dressmaker's chalk or pen. Make sure that the tail goes with the grain of the fabric, and that the fur ends at the tip, like a real tail. Choose long, fluffy fur for large tails, such as fox or wolf tails. Choose short fur for skinny tails, such as cat tails. Set the fake fur down onto a flat surface with the back side facing you. Slide the tip of your scissors into the fur, then begin to cut along the pattern. Cutting like this will prevent you from accidentally cutting the fur fibers themselves. If you did not already add a seam allowance to your pattern, be sure that you add a inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance now. Alternatively, you can cut the pattern out using a box cutter. If you chose a unique shape for your tail, such as a curved husky tail, make sure that you flip the pattern over first. This includes the fur at the tip of the tail. Doing this will prevent the fur from getting caught in the seams, and make cleaning it up at the end easier. Place the two pieces of fur together, with the wrong sides facing out. Sew along the fur using a -inch (1.27-centimeter) seam allowance. If the thread breaks, use a looser tension or switch to a stretch stitch. Leave the top of the tail open. Use a dowel, pen, or knitting needle to help push the end of the tail out further. If your tail had a curved shape, like a husky tail, be sure to cut notches into the curved parts. This will help it lay smoother. You can find bags of this stuff in fabric stores and arts and crafts stores. If you want a bendable tail, consider sticking a thick wire into the tail after you stuff it. Tuck the raw edges into the tail, then sew the sew shut using a ladder stitch. You will be using a safety pin to secure the tail to your costume. If you'd prefer to use loops instead, cut one or two loops out of cording, and add them to the top of the tail before you sew it shut. Alternatively, you can sew a keychain ring or hook to the top of the tail instead. If you added loops of cording instead, you can skip this step and slide the tail onto a belt instead. Focus on the seams where the fur may have gotten caught in the stitch. Next, brush the fur from the top of the tail towards the bottom so that it lays naturally. If you make a husky tail, you will need to comb it at a downward angle instead so that it points towards the outer part of the curve. If the fur is still caught in the seams, use the tip of a knitting needle to pull it out, then comb it again.
A: Create your pattern. Transfer your pattern to the back of a piece of fake fur. Cut the pattern out from the back of the fabric. Cut another piece for the other side of the tail. Comb the fur inwards, away from the cut edges. Pin and sew the tail together. Turn the tail right-side-out through the opening at the top. Stuff the tail with polyester stuffing or fiberfill. Hand sew the top of the tail shut. Sew a flat-backed safety pin to the top of the tail. Comb or brush the fur out.

Q: Before loading the revolver, you must remove the manufacturer's preservative and/or any built-up grime. To do so thoroughly, you'll need to disassemble the gun. The exact disassembly process will vary by manufacturer, so check on the procedure before continuing. Scrub all parts of the disassembled gun with a cotton swab to strip the grease away. Dip the swab in a cleaning solvent or hot, soapy water. Scrub the interior of all cylinder chambers with the cotton swab. Set the cylinder down so that all of the chambers face downward. This will allow the water or solvent to drain. Pass a cleaning patch soaked with solvent or hot, soapy water through the barrel. Pass clean, dry swabs or patches through each chamber and through the barrel to finish the cleaning process. As you reassemble the revolver, you should oil all moving parts and grease the grooves of the cylinder pin. Note that reassembly will vary by gun manufacturer. As with disassembly, you should check on the exact procedure before continuing. Use a natural lubricant instead of a petroleum-based one. Apply a light coating of your chosen lubricant to all moving parts of the gun. Do not oil the gun heavily since doing so can cause fouling. You should also lightly grease each ball you'll be firing and the opening of each chamber. Even if you just reassembled the revolver, it's a good idea to verify that the gun is currently unloaded before continuing. At this time, you should also put on your safety goggles and hearing protection. Set the hammer in its half cocked position. Aim the gun at a safe target and squeeze the trigger. The hammer should not move. If you can squeeze the trigger and the hammer falls, the revolver is broken and unsafe. Do not load it. Instead, you must have the gun repaired. The half cocked position acts as the revolver's "safety" position. Slide a cleaning rod or wooden dowel down the barrel and mark rod at the muzzle. You need to make sure that the chamber is aligned with the barrel. Remove the rod and lay it along the outside of the barrel, lining it up with the mark at the muzzle. The opposite end should end at the nipple, which is where the chamber ends. Repeat this step with each chamber. If the rod does not line up correctly for any chamber, there is an obstruction. Do not load it. You must clear the obstruction before continuing.
A: Disassemble the revolver. Clean it thoroughly. Lightly oil the gun as you reassemble it. Verify that the gun is unloaded. Check the half cock position. Insert a cleaning rod down the barrel.

Q: Lean back slightly, "unfolding" from the pike position until your body is straight. You should feel a mild stretch in your abs. The Ab Lounge 2 won't do much to limit your stretch. You must do so yourself, stretching only to the point of muscular tension, not pain. Hold the stretch for at least 15 to 30 seconds, breathing normally.
A:
Assume the basic starting position, with both feet on the footrest and both hands on the grab strap. Extend both legs, resting your ankles on the footrest, for a more intense stretch that includes your hip flexors, the muscles across the front of your hips.