Q: As unpleasant as it may seem to think about cold winter temperatures and snowy days in the middle of the summer, you need to start planning the garden early. This will give you enough time to have your plants in the ground before the first frost, and will prevent you from having to scramble to assemble your garden in September. If you live in the northern hemisphere, start planning in July. If you live in the southern hemisphere, start your winter garden plans in January. If you live in the American Deep South, or other regions that stay warm well into winter, you may be able to wait until August to plan your garden. The first frost will kill most plants, but hardy winter crops will survive the first frost if they're planted early enough. Time your plants to fully mature before that date by planting them 6-8 weeks in advance. Speak to your local garden authorities (such as the 4H extension office or master gardener club) to help you time your winter garden precisely. You can also look up the approximate first frost date online. Input your ZIP code at: https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates/states. Note that this site is specific to the U.S. Use a shovel and hoe to break up the soil and to loosen and remove the roots of summer crops. Use the blade of your spade to loosen the ground at least to a depth of 68 inches (1520cm). Reworking the soil will make it easier for your winter plants to extend their roots into the ground and to absorb necessary nutrients. If you're not using a garden plot that you've planted summer plants in, you'll need to plant your winter crops in a patch of well-draining soil. Select a location that is blocked from the wind and receives as much sun as possible. A south-facing slope works best for a winter garden. If you don't have access to an area of soil with good water drainage, you can install a raised bed. Avoid planting outdoor winter plants in individual containers or plastic planters. Plants' roots can easily freeze in these containers, and this effectively kills the plant. The majority of soil nutrients will have been used up by the crops and flora you planted during the spring and summer months. Add about 5 inches (13cm) of compost or other fertile natural material to your garden. The compost will replenish nutrients and help your winter plants grow. Composted manure, alfalfa meal, or a balanced organic fertilizer are all appropriate choices. Adding compost initially will also keep you from having to fertilize crops during the winter growing season.
A: Start planning in mid-summer. Find out the average date of the first frost in your region. Rework your soil before you begin planting. Choose a garden location with good drainage. Add compost to your soil before planting.

Q: Shake off any loose dirt or dust that has accumulated on your rug since buying it or cleaning it last. Dirt and dust rubbing against rug fibers actually prove to be damaging to the quality of the rug over time. Be sure that it is dry wherever you shake it out. Wool gets weaker when it's wet, and shaking a wet rug can further embed the dirt you are trying to remove. Don't let your rug get completely wet since it can easily form mold or mildew. If possible, designate an area where you can hang a clothesline and hang the wool rug like that. Beat against the rug with a broom to help shake it clean. Vacuum the rug in a "V" action to alternate the vacuum's direction and prevent crushing the fibers of the wool rug. Repeat this 3 times over the wool rug. To keep dirt from building up and embedding itself in your delicate rug, you should be vacuuming regularly: twice a month. Vacuum the underside of your wool rug once every 2 months. Make sure the vacuum has a setting of a high height to avoid agitating the rug excessively. Shrinkage, piling, and overall damage to the wool fibers can be a result of agitating the rug too much. Sponge the rug with cool water and a mild liquid soap or rug shampoo. Wash the fringes of the rug with the same solution. Make sure that you wet the rug, paying special attention to the nap of the rug. When you brush your hand against a rug toward the outer edge in linear motions, one side will feel rough and the other side will feel soft. The soft side is the nap side. Apply the soapy water in the direction of the nap side. To finish the job, rinse all the soapy solution off the rug thoroughly with water. Make sure all soap is out of the rug before continuing on to the next step. Wool rugs require an extensive dry so do your best to get rid of any excess moisture on the rug by squeezing it out or hanging it out to dry under the sun. Never place them in a dryer, but feel free to use heaters to help facilitate its drying speed. Once the nap of the rug is dry, turn it over, and dry the back of the rug. Make sure both sides of the rug are completely dry before placing it back on the floor. If the material feels stiff after drying, vacuum the rug one more time or brush it gently to bring some of its softness back.
A: Take your wool rug outside. Run a vacuum over your rug. Shampoo the rug once all of the dirt has been removed. Dry your rug immediately.

Q: There are a variety of pruning tools that can be used to trim your palm tree. Consider the size of your tree to determine which tool you need. It's also important to make sure that your equipment is sterile and sharp before you prune. A serrated knife can be used to cut off fronds that are less than 1 inch in diameter. A knife is also useful for removing flower stalks from the tree. Large clippers or pruning sheers can be used to remove fronds slightly larger than 1 inch in diameter. A hand saw or pruning saw will make it easier to remove thicker, larger fronds from the tree. A chainsaw can be used to cut very large, very thick fronds, but extra precautions should be taken to ensure you don't hurt yourself or the trunk of the tree. Make sure to clean all tools before you use them. Leftover dirt and sap may help spread soil-borne diseases. You can clean off dirt and rust with a wire-bristle brush, for example. You can disinfect the tools with a household cleaner like Lysol, 70% alcohol, bleach, or disinfectant wipes. You can sharpen your blades with a whetsone, oilstone, or a bench grinder. Palm trees can grow to be very tall. The equipment you'll need to reach the fronds will depend on the height of your tree. Step stools or a small ladder can be used for shorter trees. Extension ladders can be used to trim trees up to 15 feet (4.6m) in height. A bucket lift or cherry picker should be used to trim very tall trees. Climbing gear should be used by trained professionals only, and climbing spikes or cleats should never be used as they can damage the trunk and spread disease. Gardening gloves and safety goggles should be used when trimming your palm. Palm fronds usually have very sharp spikes along their edges. Gloves will help protect your hands. Sawing and cutting sends small pieces of debris flying. Wear safety goggles to protect your eyes. Palm trees can grow very tall and large, spiky fronds can be unwieldy. If you're dealing with a tall tree or do not feel comfortable using the equipment it's best to consult a professional. Look for someone with experience trimming palm trees. Make sure whoever you hire does not use gear that could damage the tree, such as climbing spikes or cleats.
A: Select pruning equipment. Select climbing equipment. Get protective gear. Consult a professional.

Q: If you have an older microwave, it's probably got yellow stains from years of use but these are easy to remove with a little nail polish. Dip a cotton ball in acetone nail polish remover and rub the yellow stains until they lift. To remove the harsh acetone smell, wipe the microwave down with a damp cloth.
A:
Wipe away yellow stains with nail polish remover.