In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: On one hand, you'll need your pregnant bitch to gain roughly 15-20% of its original weight by the time it gives birth to its litter. Puppy food is high in protein and basic nutrients and as such will help your dog gain that much needed weight. With this in mind, you don't want to cause your dog to gain too much weight. You might choose to begin feeding your pregnant pooch puppy food when you discover her pregnancy or if you know that your dog is prone to weight fluctuations, you might decide to wait until 2-3 weeks before its whelping (the birth). Moreover, you should choose the puppy chow that you plan on feeding your puppies. This will make it easier for the puppies to transition to puppy food in terms of their overall health and more specifically their GI balance. Begin when they turn 3 weeks old. You won't completely cold turkey wean them off of their mother. You'll begin by giving them puppy food for approximately 10% of their daily caloric intake. They'll continue to nurse off of their mother, while they get used to eating their puppy food. Over the next 2 to 3 weeks, you'll feed them puppy food more and more and they'll nurse less and less. Do not rush weaning for any puppies that are slow to eat on their own. This can lead to malnourishment. It's better to let them continue to nurse from their mother and slow the puppy weaning process a bit. Most likely, if you place the puppy in front of its food, it will eat it. Some puppies, on rare occasions, may resist eating the puppy chow. Simply pick up the puppy and place it in front of its food. Do this once or twice. Eventually, your puppy will chow down on the food. Start by separating the puppies from their mother for 1 hour, 2 or 3 times a day. Take the mother to another part of the yard or house. Leave the puppies with their food bowls. They'll undoubtedly whine at first. Eventually, they'll learn that their food bowls contain delicious and healthy food. You are mimicking the process that occurs in the wild, so don't feel bad. During the weaning process, monitor their health. Make sure that they are gaining weight equally. Check for vomit and diarrhea. Consult your veterinarian if any problems or questions arise. As with all the other steps, the key is gradual change. Begin by replacing 1/4 of her puppy food with her regular adult food. This will help her digestive system cope with the change and it will continue to give her milk the nutrients of the puppy chow. Over the next couple of weeks, switch her entirely back to her normal adult dog food. At around 7 weeks old your puppy should be completely weaned. They should also be eating dry puppy food and drinking water.
Summary: Transition your pregnant dog to puppy food early. Gradually offer your puppies puppy food. Encourage your pup to eat their puppy chow. Remove the mother while they feed on puppy chow. Keep a close eye on your pups. Switch the mother back to regular dog food at 4 weeks. Completely wean your puppies off their mother's milk.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Hook your timing gun up to the power and ground terminals on your car's battery, and hook the sensor that accompanies the timing gun to your number one cylinder spark plug wire. Follow the instructions particular to the timing light you're using to hook it up properly. The "gun" works by illuminating the timing marks in a strobe fashion as it spins, allowing you to see the point at which the spark plug is firing on the timing index. When the spark plug fires, the sensor sends a signal to the light, which strobes in the gun, illuminating the numbers at the proper moment. To check your timing number and see how it is firing, have someone rev the engine while you illuminate the timing numbers with your light. You obviously want to make sure the car is in neutral, and keep your hands a safe distance from the engine as it revs. Though the wheel is turning, the light should seem to "freeze" it at a particular number. This is the timing number. Note the number of degrees to the right or left of zero. As the RPMs increase, the point at which the spark plug is firing should also increase somewhat. This is normal, because ignition works on a curve, allowing for the speed increase and adjusting the timing accordingly. To check for total timing, you want to be sure to rev the engine to at least 3500 RPMs. This will allow you to make sure the curve of the ignition timing is being set, as well as the initial timing. If your car features vacuum timing advance in addition to mechanical timing, and you'll need to loosen the distributor adjustment bolt before you start the engine. Next, remove the vacuum advance hose from the carburetor and plug it with a rag to check your timing. Vacuum timing works by making minor adjustments at at low RPM by rotating slightly to adjust for the timing. Now that you've found your ignition timing number, how do you know if you need to adjust it? All models of cars will have differing timing values, depending on the year it was manufactured and the variety of transmission used. To learn whether or not you need to adjust your timing, find the optimum timing number for your make and model and adjust if necessary. If you don't know your timing number, talk to a licensed mechanic or employee at your local auto parts store to consult their manuals and find the proper timing number.
Summary: Hook up your timing light or timing gun. Have a helper rev the engine. Shine the light directly onto the harmonic balancer and find the number. Account for vacuum timing, if necessary. Adjust the timing, if necessary.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Quick release gait belts have 2-piece buckles located on either end of the belt strap. To secure the buckle, push the "male" side into the "female" side until you hear a snap, then tug on the closed buckle to make sure it's secure. To unbuckle the belt, simultaneously press down on the tabs at the top and bottom of the closed buckle, and pull the 2 buckle components apart at the same time. As with a standard gait belt, the buckle can cause discomfort if it's positioned directly over the center of the patient's abdomen. Slide it a little to the right or left of center, based on the patient's preference. Some excess belt strap will already be looped through and hanging free from one of the sides of the buckletypically the "male" side. Pull on the strap until the belt is at the proper tightness around the patient's waist, with the bottom of the belt just touching the tops of the hip bones. You should be able to slide your fingers behind the belt, but not be able to pinch the fabric between your fingers. The excess belt strap can be a tripping hazard, so get it out of the way by tucking it once or more behind the fitted belt. If there is an excessive amount of strapping left, wrap it loosely around the patient's body once or twice (above the fitted belt), then tuck it in.
Summary:
Snap the two sides of the plastic buckle together. Move the buckle to the right or left of the patient's belly button. Pull the loose end of the belt strap to secure the belt tightly. Tuck the loose strap end into the belt for safety reasons.