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If it is labeled as 'manmade material,' it is definitely synthetic leather. But if it doesn't say anything at all, chances are good the manufacturer wants to conceal the fact that it isn't real leather. Of course, used goods may have lost their tags. But most manufacturers are proud of the fact that they use real leather, and will note it as following: Real leather Genuine leather Top/Full grain leather Made with animal products Imperfections, in leather, are actually a good thing. Remember, real leather is made from animal skin, and thus each piece is as random and unique as the animal it came from. Very regular, even, and similar grains often indicate a machine-made piece. Real leather might have scratches, creases, and wrinkles -- this is a good thing! Note that, as manufacturers get more skilled, their designs are better mimicking real leather. This makes buying online, where you only have a picture, very difficult to do. Real leather will wrinkle under the tough, just like real skin. Synthetic materials usually just depress down under your finger, retaining rigidity and shape. If you're completely unsure of the smell you're looking for, head into a store that you know sells genuine leather and test out a few bags and shoes. Ask if they have any synthetic pieces and smell those as well. Once you know what you're looking for, the smell differences will be unmistakable. Remember, leather is just worked animal skin. Faux leather is made of plastic. It seems obvious, but real leather will smell like skin and fake will smell like plastic. While there are few circumstances where burning a good is preferable to leaving it alone, this experiment works if you have a small, hard-to-see area that you can test, like the underside of a couch. Hold a flame up to the area for 5-10 seconds to test it out: Real leather will only char slightly, and smell a bit like burnt hair. Faux leather will actually catch flame, and smells like burning plastic. Machine made leather looks machine cut. Real leather is made of many strands, which naturally fray around the edges. Faux leather made from plastic has no such strands, meaning the edges are cleanly cut. Similar to the "wrinkle test," real leather has a unique elasticity when bent, changing color and wrinkling up naturally. Faux leather is much more rigid and regular, and will usually be difficult to bend by comparison. If the good is fake, the water will simply puddle up on top. But real leather will absorb a small drop of water in only a few seconds , telling you quickly if it is genuine. A product completely made of real leather will be quite expensive. They usually sell at fixed prices. Shop around and get a feel for the price of real leather, semi leather, and synthetic leather products to understand the differences between them. Among leathers, cow leather price is the highest due to its durability and easy tanning property. Split leather, which is an under layer split from the surface layer, is less expensive than top grain or belting leather. If a deal seems too good to be true, it likely is. Real leather is expensive. While all real leather goods are much more expensive than fake, there are actually different types of real leather as well, all with widely different pricing. A bright blue piece of leather furniture may not look natural, but this doesn't mean it isn't made of real leather. Colors and dyes can be added to both synthetics and natural leathers, so ignore color and stick to feel, smell, and texture when searching for real or faux leather.

summary: Be wary of any product that doesn't specifically claim to be real leather. Check the surface grain, the little "pebbles" and pores, for imperfections and uniqueness that signal genuine leather. Press into the leather, looking for creases and wrinkles. Smell the leather, searching for a natural, musty smell instead of plastic-like or chemical-y. Use the fire test, recognizing that it will likely ruin part of the good. Note the edges, as real leather has rough edges where faux has even, perfect edges. Bend the leather, looking for it to change color slightly in real leather. Drop a small amount of water on the good, as real leather absorbs moisture. Know that real leather goods are rarely ever cheap. Ignore color, as even colored leathers can be genuine.

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Sow grass and plant trees, shrubs and other greenery in bare spots in your yard or garden. The foliage will absorb excess water and protect the topsoil from the impact of rain, heavy wind and foot traffic. The roots of the plants will also help anchor the soil once they take hold, safeguarding the soil beneath from water runoff. Grass and plant roots also serve to draw nutrients from deep in the soil closer to the surface, improving the healthiness of the topsoil. Ryegrass and clover make excellent choices for basic groundcover, as their roots spread deep and hold fast. Other useful anchoring plants include grains such as wheat, barley, and rye and crops of root vegetables like radishes. If you have a field or flat, wide open space on your property, considering growing a row of trees to act as a barrier from the wind. This is known as a windbreak cover and is an efficient means of combating wind erosion often employed by landscapers. A windbreak cover will cut down on the amount of wind that sweeps an open area of land, keeping topsoil from being scattered and dried out. For best results, group trees or shrubs relatively close together so that little space exists between them for wind to penetrate. Choose tree species that develop thick foliage, like Eastern Red Cedar, Lombardy Poplar, and Red Pine. Look for areas where the ground is hard and bare. This is most often a symptom of compacted soil. Sew grass in these areas, and be sure to water and aerate the soil frequently. If not remedied, the soil below can become even more dense while the top layer erodes, making growing conditions inhospitable. When soil becomes compacted, its particles are pressed tightly together so that water cannot penetrate deep into its sublayers, causing the uppermost layers of soil to be worn away by runoff. In addition, soil compaction causes aeration problems within soil, meaning that it's less likely that you'll be able to get things to grow in places where the soil is badly compacted. Be careful about habitually walking in the same places if the soil in your yard or garden is compacted; this will just make the problem worse. Choose a new footpath to take, or stand on a broad, flat board when gardening to keep your body weight from contributing to soil compaction. Building a no-dig garden involves layering materials over the topsoil in which plants and crops can be planted so that there's no need to disturb the soil itself. When gardening is done above the soil instead of within it, the soil will not be exposed to lots of harsh digging and watering that can damage soil and lead to erosion. Create multiple no-dig plots to serve as flower beds or patches for growing crops that require similar soil conditions. A wealth of different planting schemes exist, but all make use of the same basic structure: multiple tiers of compostable matter are layered over a permeable surface like cardboard directly on top of the ground. Look into different ideas for constructing your own no-dig garden. During peak growing season, spread a thin layer of mulch around the base of thriving plants. The weight of the mulch will keep the soil from being exposed to wind and water while also preserving important nutrients and moisture in the soil at root-level. Mulch can be bought cheap at any gardening center, or you can easily make your own at home by feeding scrap wood, live foliage and decaying plant matter into a shredder to form a composite.
summary: Plant grass and trees to secure topsoil. Grow windbreak cover for fields. Avoid compacting soil. Employ no-digging gardening techniques. Spread mulch over growing plants.