Palm trees do not have large tap roots that support it, so they must be temporarily braced to keep them standing until their roots become established. That is, unless you are using the washed plaster sand backfill. This normally provides enough rigidity to avoid using braces. Wrap the trunk at least 1/4 up the tree's height with a 16 inch (40.6cm) wide piece of burlap to keep the bracing board cleats from chaffing the bark when the tree tries to sway in high winds. Drive stakes on three sides, equidistant apart around the tree's circumference, and fasten lumber support braces (2X4 treated lumber will work) to blocks of wood secured to the trunk with tie wire, placed over the burlap. You may want to create a small earthen dam around the root ball to keep the water from shedding away from the tree's roots while you water, particularly if the tree is on a hillside or in soil that doesn't absorb water easily. Mulching the base of the tree will also help to keep the soil moist. Use about 3 inches (7.6cm) of non-compacting mulch. Remember, transplanting your palm tree already poses a shock. Unfortunately, adding fertilizer poses another shock. To minimize the shock your tree might experience and maximize its chances of thriving, don't fertilize until six to eight weeks after planting. When you do decide to fertilize, remember to use a slow-acting fertilizer, and hold off placing the fertilizer directly near the trunk. Place the fertilizer one or two feet around the trunk of the tree to avoid over-fertilizing. You should also consider improving your palm's soil with mycorrhizal fungi. Palms evolved to have a symbiotic relationship with these fungi and thrive when they are present in the soil, as the fungi colonize the tree's root system and help it take in nutrients and water. You can purchase mycorrhizal treatments online or from plant stores. The establishment period will depend on the type of tree, its size, and whether it was a container plant or a wrapped root ball specimen. Generally, the roots should be watered thoroughly, but not flooded. Watering daily for the first few weeks, weekly for the following few months, then tapering off the watering is a normally suggested schedule.
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One-sentence summary -- Stake the tree to keep it standing, if necessary. Water the tree thoroughly. Hold off on fertilizing the palm for six to eight weeks after planting. Keep the tree watered as often as necessary until it is established, if the soil is gravel and sand it will need more watering.

Q: Hanging the item from a drying rack is also acceptable. Make sure the fabric is completely dry before using or wearing your felt item. Do not let the felt air-dry in direct sunlight, as this can be damaging to the fabric. If all else fails, take your fabric to a dry cleaner to be cleaned by a professional.
A: Lay the felt out flat and allow to air-dry in a cool place.

Article: . A lawn aerator, available from tool rental companies, removes plugs of soil from your lawn to improve aeration and drainage. For a home lawn, one aeration each fall is usually enough. Aerate when the ground is soft enough to penetrate, but a little on the dry side to prevent compaction. Ideally, the machine should remove plugs about 23 inches (57.5cm) long, 0.50.75 in (1.251.9cm) in diameter. Pass over the lawn once or twice, or until there are eight or nine plugs per square foot (88-99 per m2). Leave the plugs on the lawn to decompose. If they're taking too long, break them up by dragging metal objects over the grass, or collect them to compost. Thatch is the spongy mat of roots and stems that build up on the lawn surface. Once it reaches 0.5 in (1.25 cm) thick, it will grow rapidly and prevent drainage and aeration. There are several ways to remove existing thatch: The best way to remove thatch is additional core aeration, described above. Rent a dethatching machine to remove thatch less than 0.5 in (1.25 cm) thick. Do this only in early fall or late spring, when weather is cool and there are several weeks of growth left. Run a power rake over the lawn, frequently and shallowly. Deep power raking can cause damage. If thatch grows rapidly, try these fixes right after removing the existing thatch: Topdress the lawn with a in (3mm) sprinkle of soil, using the same soil as the lawn. Conduct a soil test and adjust pH until it is between 6.0 and 7.0, or as recommended for your grass species. Add calcium carbonate lime to raise lawn pH, or sulfur to lower it. Reduce use of pesticides, which may be killing earthworms that break down thatch. If water floods your lawn or runs off into surrounding areas, give the lawn half as much water as you currently use per session. Let the water drain for one hour, then give the lawn the rest of the water. This is usually a problem for dense clay soil and slopes. Commercial wetting agents added to the water will reduce runoff, but won't fix a serious problem. If your lawn is seriously compacted or has a thick layer of thatch, aerate the yard as described above. Dew will not harm your grass, but "guttation" will. This is the formation of sugary water droplets along the blade edge, which attract disease and pests. To get rid of these, drag a hose or whipping pole over the surface, or hose them off with a brief spray. If your grass does poorly in shade make these adjustments to shaded areas: Water less frequently but very deeply. Fertilize or as much as the sunny areas. Mow to 3 inches (7.5 cm) or higher. Reduce foot traffic. Minimize lawn use during frosts, when the lawn is vulnerable. If you need to break up ice, use as little salt as possible. Calcium chloride products are safer than sodium chloride or salt-laden snow. Never use fertilizers to break up ice, as they will run off along with snowmelt and pollute water sources. Stick to light use in early spring until the grass dries out and revives. If there are bare spots, seed them early before weeds take hold.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Aerate your yard once or twice a year Remove excessive thatch. Prevent future thatch buildup. Prevent surface runoff. Shake water droplets from grass surface. Improve poor grass in shady areas. Care for lawns in winter.