Article: Certain groups or people are more susceptible to being infected with scabies, mostly because they are more likely to have skin-to-skin contact with others, which is the only way that you can catch scabies. If you're a member of one or more of these groups, be careful and aware of any symptoms of scabies. Children are vulnerable to scabies. They can acquire it from being in communal environments in which scabies is more common. Mothers of young children are very susceptible to scabies. They often catch scabies from their children first before passing it on to others. Sexually active people can also acquire scabies. Scabies is most easily contracted as a result of prolonged skin-to-skin contact. People living in nursing homes or similar environments. The elderly or those living in close quarters can also get scabies because they are in close contact with many people. People in confinement, in places like prison, are also at risk of contracting scabies. Scabies do not spread in dirty environments; the scabies mite simply wants to stay on human skin. This means that some environments, such as the following, are especially ripe for a scabies infestation: College dormitories are a common place to catch scabies, since so many people are coming into contact with one another and the outside world. Places like a communal bathrooms are somewhere to easily catch scabies. Nursing homes are another place to catch scabies. Since so many people are in close quarters, scabies can easily spread among the residents. Childcare centers can also spread scabies. It's not because the children are dirty, but rather because one person infected can easily infect others through skin-to-skin contact. Classrooms can also spread scabies, since children are constantly coming and going from the outside and are around one another for long periods of time. Camps are another place to catch scabies. The mixture of a variety of people in close quarters can spread scabies. While animals may have other ticks or mites, they cannot spread scabies to humans. Skin-to-skin contact with another human is the only way to catch scabies. For dogs, scabies is called mange. This produces a slight itch on human skin, but goes away quickly. Bring your pet to the doctor if they are exhibiting symptoms of mange such as itching or hair loss. Scabies from dogs will not cause human scabies. If you get scabies, it's from another human, not from your pet even if they have mange.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Be careful if you're in a group susceptible to scabies infection. Be aware of your environmental risks for scabies. Realize that animals cannot spread scabies.
Article: Depending on the age of the house you're working in, the drywall will either be nailed or screwed into the studs. To remove drywall that's nailed in, you'll simply start prying up the sections of drywall, piece by piece. If, on the other hand, the drywall is screwed in, you might need to take a bit more time to remove the screws before you start prying it loose. Screws that are bedded in joint compound can be very difficult to locate and remove. Drywall screws can sometimes be removed with a Philips-head screwdriver, but depending on the condition of the wall, this may be more hassle than it's worth. Look at the screws and the condition of the drywall itself. If they're easy to remove, go ahead and remove them. It'll mean less elbow grease down the road. If the drywall is wet, or if the screws are mangled, rusted, or otherwise difficult to remove, go ahead and start prying the drywall loose as if they were simply nailed in. Standard drywall installation is done using 4x8 ft panels. Those are usually mounted horizontally with staggered joints, with two sections used to cover a standard 8 feet (2.4m). section of wall. These will be fastened into the vertical wooden studs, centered at 16 or 24 inch (40.6 or 61.0cm) intervals. For unsoiled drywall, use a pry bar to begin prying the bottom of the panel away from these studs, allowing removal of the entire sheet. Pushing the short end of the flat bar up under the bottom of the panel allows for using the long end as a lever, making the initial prying easy. Identify a section of wall roughly 2 feet (0.6m) above the ground and 8 inches (20.3cm) from the end of the wall, making note to avoid electrical outlets. Using a hammer claw, make a foot long vertical series of holes. Basically, what you want to do is open up some space to grab hold of the drywall and pull it loose. It's not rocket-science: knock some holes in at the side and give yourself something to hang onto. Grab at the upper and lower holes you've cut and pull a large chunk of drywall off the nails on the nearby stud. Keep moving along the wall, pulling chunks loose as you go. When the drywall breaks on a stud, make another vertical hole in adjacent gap and continue removing the drywall by hand. For water-damaged drywall, a good strategy is to open a hole at the midpoint of the 14.5 inch (36.8cm) space between studs. Using a sledge or a battering ram of some kind can usually be effective in this circumstance. If the water-damage extends to the upper panel, the same action will usually cleanly separate the wall from the ceiling. Use the flatbar to pry loose any nails remaining on the studs, or take care to unscrew the screws remaining in the wood. A pry bar or a hammer claw should be fine for the job.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Look for drywall screws. Start at the bottom of undamaged drywall. Continue prying the side of the section loose. Pull a section loose. Start in the center of water-damaged drywall. Remove the drywall nails left on the studs.