If you want your honey to retain the benefits of "raw" honey, use the microwave with caution. While quick and efficient, microwaving can easily destroy the beneficial enzymes by overheating them. Besides presenting a possible health hazard, plastic containers don't transfer heat as well as glass does. Bottom line: you'll get the job done quicker and more safely if you move your honey to a glass jar instead of using a plastic container. Cooking time for your batch will vary based on the amount of honey you're liquefying, the starting temperature of the honey, and its sugar content as well as content the wattage of your microwave. It is best to start off at low power and use short microwave times. This may take more cycles and an extra minute or two, but you won't ruin the taste of the honey or inhibit the effectiveness of the good enzymes during the liquefaction process. Experiment to find what works for you in your environment, but experiment cautiously. Above 100F (38C), the flavor of honey is altered; above 120F (49C), the beneficial enzymes in the honey start to break down and stop being effective. If pockets of honey have started to liquefy, stir the honey to help transfer the heat. If the honey hasn't started to liquefy, continue microwaving in 30 second increments until some crystals start to liquefy. Continue until the honey has nearly liquefied, then stir until the process is complete. If most of the honey has liquefied but some stubborn crystals remain, you may want to finish the job off manually by stirring the honey vigorously instead of continuing to heat it.
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One-sentence summary -- Use a microwave cautiously when liquefying honey. Transfer your honey from any plastic containers into a glass jar by spoon. Start microwaving honey in 30 second increments on the defrost setting. Check for liquefaction of the honey after 30 seconds, particularly near the surface of the jar. Microwave for additional increments of 15 to 30 seconds, stirring after each microwaving session.

Q: Lay a pair of jeans out flat and pick a spot between the knee and the crotch area where you'd like the top of your boot to be. Then, use scissors to cut a straight horizontal line across the pant leg at this point. After cutting one pant leg, lay it on top of the other and use it as a guide while you cut the other pant leg. This way, you can make sure that your boots will be the same exact height. Pull 1 of the pant legs onto the leg that it's supposed to go on. Then, put on a black open-toed stiletto heel that will become part of your boot. Pull the hem of the pant leg just over your ankle and heel so that it's barely covering the top of your shoe in the back. Lift up the hem, squirt some hot glue around the back top edge of the shoe, and press the hem down. Be very careful not to get any hot glue on your skin, or else it may burn you. Cut a leftover piece of your jeans that's wide enough to reach from your ankle to your toe and long enough to wrap around your entire foot. Lay the piece centered across the top of your foot. Tuck 1 edge just underneath the hem of the pant leg, and glue them together all the way around. With the piece of fabric still centered, squirt hot glue along the edge of the sole on both sides of the shoe and press down. Fold the edges of the piece of fabric underneath the sole of the shoe and then glue the fabric to the shoe in this location as well. After the glue has dried, carefully pull the pant leg and shoe off. Cut another scrap piece of denim that's long enough to cover the entire heel of your shoe. Then, wrap the strip tightly around the heel and glue it to itself with the hot glue gun. Cut off the excess fabric once the glue is dry. Cut another piece of scrap denim that's about as wide as the toe area of your shoe. Fold the fabric over the front edge of the toe area so that one end of the strip is under the shoe and the other is underneath where you foot goes. Glue the edges down in these areas. Use your completed boot as a guide while you make your other boot. Go through the same process and use the same sizes of scrap fabric to ensure that your boots look identical.
A: Cut off the legs of an old pair or jeans at about mid thigh. Lay the cut pant leg over the other one and cut it in the same spot. Put on a pant leg and a stiletto shoe and glue the hem to the shoe. Wrap a strip of denim around the top of your foot and glue it to the hem. Glue the piece of fabric to the sides and bottom of the shoe. Take the shoe and pant leg off and glue a strip of denim around the heel. Glue another extra piece of fabric to the toe area. Repeat this process for the other boot.

Article: Each Minesweeper game starts out with a grid of unmarked squares. After clicking one of these squares, some of the squares will disappear, some will remain blank, and some will have numbers on them. It's your job to use the numbers to figure out which of the blank squares have mines and which are safe to click. Minesweeper is similar to a Sudoku puzzle in that your success is largely contingent on being able to eliminate possible answers until only one answer remains. The mouse is the only tool that you'll need to play Minesweeper. The left mouse button is used to click squares that don't contain mines, while the right mouse button is used to flag squares that contain mines. On higher difficulties, you'll need to mark squares that you suspect contain mines until you can verify that they do contain mines. The first square that you click will never have a mine beneath it; clicking a square will clear off some of the board while numbering other squares. A number on a square refers to the number of mines that are currently touching that square. For example, if there are two squares touching each other and one of the squares has "1" on it, you know that the square next to it has a mine beneath it.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Understand the principles behind Minesweeper. Use the mouse's left and right buttons. Don't worry about your first click. Know what the numbers mean.

Article: The virus that causes warts can be passed from person to person if the warts are touched or picked at. Leave the warts on your hands alone and avoid picking or scratching at the warts. You should also never share the emery board or pumice stone that you used to file down your warts with someone else. Only use the emery board or pumice stone on your warts and nowhere else on your body to avoid spreading the virus. If possible, avoid biting your fingernails. Broken skin, such as skin that has been bitten or chewed, is more susceptible to the development of warts. You should also avoid brushing, clipping or shaving any areas that have warts as this can irritate the warts and spread the virus. Keep your nails and hands clean. Always wash your hands well after touching your warts or any shared surfaces, such as exercise equipment at the gym or the handle on a bus. Reduce your risk of developing warts or passing them on to others by always wearing plastic flip flops in the change rooms and the public areas of public pools or showers.. If you have warts and are planning to go swimming in a public pool, put a waterproof plaster over the warts to prevent the spread of infection.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Do not pick at the warts and avoid direct contact with other people's warts. Practice good hand and nail hygiene. Wear flip flops around public pools and in public showers.