INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Simple and dependable for defending against wind and bitter cold, the Twice Around is a great quick tie for your winter scarf. Leave your right side end considerably longer than your left, which you should take behind the back or your neck and allow to hang loosely. Take your long end around your front, behind the back of your neck, and repeat this motion again. Now your long end and short end should be roughly the same length, with your short end on your left side and your long end on your right. This style will likely require a longer scarf (approximately 82 in.) to tie effectively. A classy look for true polar protection. With the right end longer than the left and your scarf across the back of your neck and: Take your long end around the front of your neck, around the back of your neck, and then under itself. Now you can take your short end and pull it under the long end, crossing it your front to drape with the long end. With the right end of your scarf longer and the short end already passed over the back of your neck: Take your long end across your front, around and across the back of your neck. Cross your front again to rest the long end atop your short end. Now take your short end up and over the long end and pull it behind the long end out to the other side. Halve your scarf so that you hold it by a loop with your right hand with the loose ends dangling. Take the loose ends around your neck, and: Of the two ends, take the inside one and pull it through your loop as far to the right as you can. Move your loop somewhat inward and across your chest. Twist your loop so there is a turn in the fabric separating your inside end from the end of your loop. Pull the outside end of your scarf through the loop, with the twist separating inner and outer ends.

SUMMARY: Guard against glacial temps with the Twice Around. Fight the freeze with the Reverse Drape Tuck. Avert arctic air with the Reverse Drape Cross. Foil frigidity with the Four in Hand.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: The following are common kinds of stucco finishes, each of you may want to try before deciding: Use only a roller to create a stippled effect. This is not the best option if you need to cover uneven or blemished walls. Use a trowel to spread on the stucco paint in a thick, uneven pattern. This is commonly used for outside walls. This is the best option if you are trying to cover up a heavily marred surface. Use a sponge to create a square pattern. You can dip the sponge in the paint and apply it directly to a surface, then repeat in a geometrical or random pattern. Use a stiff brush or a comb to create "draw" onto the stucco or textured paint once it has been applied. You can draw waves, stripes, cross hatches or circles. Give your stucco the best chance to adhere to your wall by prepping your surface first. Of course, how you prep your surface depends on what kind of wall you have: For concrete, brick, or block walls: Apply a coat of concrete bonding agent onto the wall. Allow it to dry completely before moving on to the next step. For wood walls: Nail roofing felt over the wall, also called "building wraps" or "stucco wraps." Then, cover with 17-gauge metal netting, which comes in 150-foot (45 m) rolls. Nail the netting to the felt using galvanized roofing nails. The scratch coat is the first layer of stucco, usually applied to a wire mesh lath, which is then scraped. These scrapes provide teeth for the next coat of stucco to hold onto. Whether you decide on a scratch coat depends largely on how much wall you want to stucco: Doing a whole wall probably requires a scratch coat, while intermittent patches probably don't. Shoot for the scratch coat to be about 3/8-inch thick. Score the scratch coat horizontally with a -inch notched trowel when the stucco is firm, but not yet dry. This scoring is what gives the scratch coat its distinctive name, and allows it to bite and hold the next layer of stucco properly. Again, try to get it so that it's about 3/8-inch thick. If working out in the sun, be sure to periodically spray the coat with a light mist of water to keep the brown coat workable. Wet your darbie first. Next, get your darbie true and plumb to an even point on the wall (use your drip-screen, perhaps), and then use the darbie to smooth out the surface of the brown coat. Once your brown coat is true and plumb, wait 7 to 10 days for the coat to dry. Any cracks, shrinkage, or imperfections should manifest during this time, giving you the opportunity to correct them before applying the last coat of stucco. The finish coat of a stucco wall should be pretty thin, about 1/8-inch thickness. This is where you blend in the texture of the new stucco to the old stucco, if necessary, or create a whole new texture if you're starting from scratch. You have some options about how you want to apply the finish coat: Mix your finish coat with a little extra water to get it soupy. Then use a "dash" brush to spray or flick the watery finishing coat onto the brown coat. This is called a dash finish, "Float" the finish coat with a hard rubber float. Move the float in a circular motion, pressing hard against the stucco. Give the stucco finish a style of your choosing by using a sponge, a towel, a brush, etc., imbuing the coat with your own pattern.

SUMMARY: Spread some stucco on a sheet of plywood to experiment with the kind of texture you would like to create. Prep your wall to receive the stucco. Apply the scratch coat of stucco using a trowel and a hawk, if necessary. Apply the second coat, also known as the brown coat or leveling coat. Go over the brown coat with a darbie or feather edge to smooth it. Apply the finish coat, texturing or "floating" the stucco as desired.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: There's no set limit to how big or small your piggy bank should be, but you should aim for a plastic bottle that's between 5001,000 millilitres (1734floz). Wash it out with water and let it sit for 10 minutes so it can dry. Keep the bottle cap on the bottle. It will serve as the pig's snout. Cut out 4 egg-holders from the carton using scissors. Then, have an adult use a low-heat hot glue gun to attach them to the bottle by applying the glue around the edges of the egg-holders. Finally, paste the legs on the side opposite the coin slot. When the pig is standing on its new legs, the coin slot should be facing up. Now that you've got a basic pig shape, it's time to get artistic with your creation! Make a tail by twisting a pink pipe cleaner into a spiral. Draw nostrils onto the pig's snout with a black marker. Cut 2 triangles out of pink paper or felt and glue them on as ears. You can give the pig eyes by hot gluing googly eyes onto its face, or by drawing, cutting out, and gluing on eyes yourself.

SUMMARY:
Wash out your plastic bottle with regular tap water. Attach the legs to the side of the bottle opposite the coin slot. Decorate your pig with the remaining materials.