Write an article based on this "Remove all the food from the fridge and freezer. Throw out tainted or rotten food. Unplug the fridge. Remove the drawers, shelves, and racks."
article: The easiest way to clean the refrigerator thoroughly is when it's empty. It's also important to clean the freezer too, because the fridge and freezer share the same air, meaning the fish smell could have invaded the freezer too. To preserve the food while you work, you can: Store it in coolers with ice packs Transfer it to a friend's or neighbor's fridge Leave it outside if it's cold enough To ensure that the fish smell, or some other bad smell, doesn't come back when the fridge is clean, locate the source of the smell and throw it out. While you're at it, throw out any food that's gone bad, moldy, or rotten. Smell every morsel of food in the fridge to check for fish smell as well. Items that weren't sealed and stored properly could have picked up the odor. Throw out anything that smells like fish. Getting rid of a fish smell in a refrigerator means some serious cleaning and airing out, and you don't want to waste electricity while you do this. The best way to conserve electricity is to unplug your fridge once all the food is out. Once you turn the fridge off, make sure you leave the doors open until it has completely defrosted, otherwise you could get mold. Fish smell could have permeated the entire fridge, and the best way to get rid of it is to clean every surface. Fridge drawers, shelves, and racks are removable, and they'll be much easier to clean if they're out of the refrigerator. To keep these items out of the way, place them on the counter or on top of the fridge until you're ready to tackle them; try to stay organised and separate the ones you have cleaned by putting them back in the fridge.

Write an article based on this "Section your hair into squares. Use a dread comb. Continue backcombing. Secure dreads with a rubber band. Wax your dreads."
article: Begin with damp hair. Smaller sections make smaller dreads, and wider squares make larger dreads. One or two inch sections are ideal. Continue until all of your hair has been sectioned. You can temporarily secure each section with a rubber band. Keep a spray bottle near you to dampen hair again when it dries. Start combing near the scalpless than an inch away. Comb in the direction of the scalp. Roll the hair you are combing between your fingers to help the process. Comb repeatedly until the hair starts to pack up near the roots. If you have textured hair, use the comb to twist your hair, not your fingers. If you have naturally straight hair, start by backcombing your hair. Then begin to twist with your fingers. Don't use a weak dread comb that will snap and break easily. Look for one that has bristles that are strong and close together. You can purchase a dread comb at many beauty supply stores and Walmart. Do this until you reach the ends of your hair. Make sure to work slowly. Try to make the dreads as tight as possible as you comb. Once you are finished combing, secure the ends of your hair with a rubber band. Small rubber bands are best to use. You can also secure the roots of your dreads. Remove the rubber bands once the dreads start to mature. If you have coarse, textured hair, then you do not need to use a rubber band. You can remove the rubber bands when the locks stay in shape on their own. Apply wax to each lock when are done using rubber bands. Make sure that the wax does not contain petroleum because it will cause unwanted buildup. The wax should help you maintain the shape of the locks and speed up the process. You can buy dread wax at many beauty supply stores and online.

Write an article based on this "Test your goldfish's water weekly. Keep ammonia levels at 0ppm. Maintain nitrite levels at 0ppm and nitrate levels below 40ppm. Ensure a pH-balanced tank."
article:
Get a fish tank water-testing kit from the pet store, which should include testing equipment for reading ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH levels. Several natural processes that occur in your tank can be kept in check by setting up your tank properly, but certain parameters still need to be tested for every week. Ammonia is a natural byproduct of the food your goldfish doesn't eat, as well as the goldfish's waste. Bacteria will eat the ammonia in your tank, but if the bacteria die or something else goes wrong, high ammonia levels can become extremely dangerous. If you're getting positive ammonia readings, change the tank's water immediately. Determine whether overfeeding, an insufficient filtering system, or overcrowding and remedy the issue as soon as possible. Nitrites are usually converted by your water filter into nitrates, but can make your goldfish unhealthy if not kept in check. During cycling, nitrite levels may reach 0.75ppm, but should never exceed this amount. Keep nitrate levels between 5 and 20ppm. Change the tanks water if nitrites are present. Their presence indicates ammonia levels are likely also too high, or your filtration system needs to be adjusted. Nitrate, which is safe at low levels, can also be harmful at higher levels and can lead to unwanted algae in the tank. A partial water change should be sufficient to reduce nitrate levels. Water that is too acidic will allow ammonia levels to increase very quickly. Water that is too alkaline (or basic) actually makes natural levels of ammonia more harmful. Shoot for the ideal levels of pH for goldfish, which are between 7.2 and 7.6 pH. If you need to adjust pH, do so minimally by adding pH decreaser or alkaline buffers that are designed for this purpose, and are available online or in pet stores. Use water generated by reverse osmosis if you are unable to change the pH of the water you're using. You may be unable to adjust the pH of certain municipal water supplies because of specific mineral content in the water.