Q: Do this until it starts to feel natural. Make sure you remember the way they walk. In time you will learn to feel your tulpa's presence, even though you can't really see them. You can still feel where they are and what they're doing, and see them with your mind's eye.
A: Go for a walk and imagine your tulpa following behind you.

Article: You need this to determine the exact length that you need for the mini-blinds. Start with the inside top of the casing where the blinds will be mounted, and measure all the way to the windowsill below. Measure from the top of the blind casing to the blind slat that most closely corresponds with the window measurements. Move downward 1 additional slat to allow a little room for error. Mark the first slat to be removed with a marker or pen. Mini-blinds are equipped with plastic plugs on the underside of the bottom rail. Most designs will feature 3 plugs along the length of the rail. Releasing the plugs allows access to the lift cord and the 3 string ladders on the mini-blinds. You can usually just pull out the plugs without having to do anything fancy. This action will slide the lift cords through the holes in the bottom rail and the slats immediately above the rail. Continue to pull the cords upward until the marked slat is freed from the cords. This will provide you with better access to the blind slats. With the lift cords no longer threaded through the slats, this requires sliding each of the slats out of the 3 string ladders.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Measure the height of the window. Place the mini-blinds on a flat surface and expand to the full length. Remove the rail plugs. Untie the knot on the lift cords and pull upward. Slide the bottom rail out of the string ladders. Remove the desired number of slats.

Problem: Article: In most situations, this is the optimal length of wire to use to generate the most cutting power. Crank the starter cord to start a gas-powered weed whacker or simply press the "On" button to start an electric tool. Note that you may need to prime a gas-powered weed whacker in order to start it. Check your owner's manual for specific instructions on how to do this with your particular device. Be sure to hold down the "kill switch" throttle in order to start the device. This is both the most comfortable and safest way to hold your weed whacker while you're using it. Be sure to keep the trigger end at waist level at all times. Watch out for any strains in your wrists or back while you're using the weed whacker. If you notice any strain, stop and rest for a few minutes before continuing. If your weed whacker comes with a shoulder strap, put the straps over both arms and clip the weed whacker to the bottom of the strap to take some of the weight off your arms. Don't try to cut the weeds all the way down to the ground; you'll just end up slicing dirt and wasting your cord. If the grass needs to be leveled out after you finish trimming, break out a lawn mower to finish the job. Try to keep the weed whacker as level as possible when you lower it to the ground. Otherwise, your trimming job will come out uneven. Move the weed whacker forward in the direction in which the wire spins. For instance, if the wire spins in a clockwise direction, move the weed whacker forward from left to right. Use a steady side-to-side motion to cut with the weed whacker as you slowly walk forward. Gently move the weed whacker from side to side without swinging it. This will not only give you better cutting results, but is also much safer. This is where the force generated by the weed whacker will be the strongest and hence most effective at cutting plants. Don't try to cut large swaths of weeds with the whole wire; this may cause the engine to overload. This is especially important if you're cutting tall, thick, or densely clumped together weeds, since these will be very difficult to cut. Turn the tool 90 degrees and hold it very firmly to avoid dropping it. Move the spinning wire along the side of the hard surface to create a "gap" between the surface and the surrounding plants. If this is the first time this particular area has been edged, you may want to slightly cut into the dirt to create a more prominent gap between the surface and the grass.
Summary: Pull out 6 inches (15cm) of wire and start the weed whacker. Hold the weed whacker with 1 hand on the trigger and the other on the handle. Lower the head to about 1 inch (2.5cm) above the ground. Move the weed whacker side-to-side about 1 foot (0.30m) at a time. Aim to cut with the tip of the nylon wire. Tilt the weed whacker on its side to edge along a hard surface.

Q: Once established, the tree can withstand short periods of drought, but it always prefers to be kept moist. When it is still young, within the first one or two seasons after being planted, you should give the tree a thorough watering if you experience a drought that lasts for two weeks or more. You can prune during the late fall or on a mildly cold day in winter, while temperatures are above the freezing point. You can also prune during the late spring, after the blooms have fallen from the tree. Remove diseased wood first. Then, cut away old lower branches close to the trunk, as well as any branches that are intertwined or growing in the wrong direction. Never remove more than 1/4 of the tree at once. Ideally, you should test the soil each fall to determine if it's missing any vital nutrients. Instead of picking a general all-purpose fertilizer, add amendments that will introduce the lacking nutrients back into the soil. Many redbud trees grow well enough on their own without the use of fertilizer, but this may not be true in all cases, so it's important to check the soil on a yearly basis. Typically, you won't need to add much if any nitrogen to the soil. You may need to select a slow-release fertilizer with higher concentrations of phosphorus and potassium than of nitrogen, and only apply it once, toward the beginning of the autumn. Leaf anthracnose, botryosphaeria canker, and verticillium wilt are the three diseases that affect redbud trees most often. Wood-boring bugs have been known to attack the soft wood of these trees, and insects like the redbud leaffolder, grape leaffolder, and Japanese weevil are known to eat the leaves. A healthy tree is less likely to succumb to these threats than a damaged tree, so prevention is the best remedy. An infected tree should first be made healthy before you consider applying an appropriate pesticide or fungicide.
A:
Make sure the tree receives moderate amounts of water. Keep the branches pruned. Fertilize only as needed. Watch out for pests and disease.