Clippers are the best for the back and sides for beginners or those who want a basic haircut. Set your clippers' guard, which controls how much hair you can cut, to 1 or 2 to make conservative cuts while you work. Use a low clipper guard around sides and, with the blade's edge, trim from the bottom of the sides to the top. Tilt the clipper blade at an angle as you work to create an even fade with the rest of your hair. Then, repeat this process on the other side of your head before moving to the back, making sure to transition between lengths at the same point on both sides. Going against your hair's grain will result in a cleaner cut. Some clippers come with ear tapers, which help you cut above and around your ears. Use these, if available, to make cleaner cuts around the ears. After cutting your sides, trim the back of your head from the bottom to the top as you did with the sides. To make sure you're cutting evenly, have a friend hold up a mirror or position a mirror behind you so you can check your progress as you cut. Use the same guard length on the back and sides of your hair when performing basic, at-home haircuts. To even out fades between cuts, go over the lower half of your hair with your clippers set to a shorter setting. Lift your hair as you approach your temples and earlobes. Work slowly while using clippers to ensure as even of a fade as possible.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Use clippers on a small guard setting to cut the back and sides. Cut one side of the head at a time. Move to the back of your head. Go over the lower half with a shorter setting.

Some cranks will have a metal or plastic cap that fits over the bolt on the crank. If your crank has one, fit a screwdriver under the edge of the cap and pop it out of its fitting. This will reveal the crank bolt. The crank bolt will be in the center of the crank and looks like a hexagon. Some cranks will have pinch bolts, or 2 smaller bolts, near the top of the crank arm. If your crank has these, insert a 5mm Allen key into the holes at the top of the arm and rotate the key counterclockwise. Loosening the pinch bolts will allow you to remove the crank arm from the rest of the crankset. The 2-bolt design is for Shimano cranks. For this type of crank, you also need to remove the plastic pre-load screw on the left, or non-drive, side of the bike. Not all cranks have these pinch bolts. If your crank doesn't, skip this step. Turn the handle of the Allen key counterclockwise to loosen the crank bolt. Then use it to completely unscrew the crank bolt. If your crank has bolts on both sides of the bike, go to the other side of the bike and remove the other crank bolt. Most cranks require a 4mm-8mm Allen key. Look in the bike's user manual or on the bike manufacturer's website to find out which size will fit your bike. An Allen key is also called an Allen wrench or a hex key. You can find them at bike shops and hardware stores. Pull the crank arm away from the bike to remove it from the rest of the crank. Then, slide the other side of the crank out of the bottom bracket. Pull the rest of the crank away from the bike to slide it out of the bottom bracket. If you have rubber washers around the spindles, slide them off before installing your new cranks. You don't need a crank extractor tool for self-extracting cranks. You'll know if you have a self-extracting crank if the crank only has 1 crank bolt on 1 side of the bike with a retaining ring around it. Purchase a crank extractor tool from a bike store or online. Insert the crank extractor into the crank-bolt hole and turn it clockwise to screw it in until it's tight. Then, turn the handle of the extractor counterclockwise until the crank pops off. Go over to the other side of the bike and remove the other side of the crank in the same way. Crank extractors are needed on non-self-extracting cranks. These types of cranks have a crank bolt on each side of the bike and do not have a retaining ring around the crank bolt.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Remove the cap from the center of the crank, if it has one. Loosen the pinch bolts with an Allen key, if the crank has them. Insert an Allen key into the crank bolt and turn it counterclockwise. Slide the crank off the spindle if you have self-extracting cranks. Loosen the cranks with a crank extractor for non-extracting cranks.

Since the paint has already dried on the faux leather, you will need to find a sharp knife or pin to remove it with. Gently scratch at the surface of the paint with the tip of the knife or pin. Be careful you do not scrape or puncture the faux leather. If you cannot easily remove the dried paint using the tip of a knife or pin, try a toothbrush. Use the toothbrush to make gentle circular strokes, so that the dried paint begins peeling off the faux leather. Do not apply too much pressure or you might scratch the surface of the faux leather. Mix 1 quart/950mL water with 1 ounce/30mL dish detergent. Dip a sponge or soft cloth in the cleaning solution. Wipe the affected area down with the hot soapy water. This should help remove any remaining flecks of dried paint. For tough stains, dip the toothbrush in the cleaning solution and scrub the stain. Once you have removed the dried paint from the faux leather, dry the affected area with a cloth made of microfiber or cotton. You can also use a paper towel to dry the faux leather. If you have a tough stain on faux leather that doesn't respond to hot, soapy water or scrubbing, you might need a special cleaner. Look for cleaners that are specifically formulated for faux leather, and use the cleaner according to the manufacturer's instructions. You can use these cleaners on wet or dry paint.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary --
Use the tip of a knife to scratch away the dried paint. Remove the dried paint with a toothbrush. Clean the area with hot, soapy water. Dry the area with a soft cloth. Consider a cleaner formulated for faux leather.