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to the trim, switches, and edges of the shower or tub. Make sure to apply painter's tape wherever the wall meets the ceiling or the floor. Tape door frames and light switches too. The tape will protect these areas from the paint and help make cleanup easier. You may want to cover the floor with a canvas drop cloth, as well. You can remove the switch plates around your light switches with a screwdriver to protect them from the paint. It's damaging on the lungs to inhale paint fumes, so reduce your risk by making sure there is plenty of air flow. Open a window, and position a fan facing outside, so it will whisk away the paint fumes. If your bathroom doesn't have a window, wear a filtered respirator to keep your lungs safe. Check if your wall is plaster by inserting a pushpin. If it goes in easily, you have drywall. You don't have to apply primer for drywall, unless it is a brand-new, never-been-painted wall. If the pushpin does not go in easily, you probably have a plaster wall. If you have a plaster wall, apply one coat of primer with a paint roller. Allow the primer to dry completely, usually overnight, before applying the base coat of paint. Use a low-gloss paint for the base coat. This will make sure that the shinier latex glaze of the top coat stands out. Make sure your base coat resists mildew. The bathroom has a lot of moisture, what with the shower and the sink, so a mildew-resistant paint is best. You can ask at the paint store for recommendations about which interior paints best resist mildew. Make sure that your base color paint looks good with your top color. A simple way to do this is to pick 2 colors from the same color family (i.e. different shades of red). Alternatively, pick 2 colors that are next to each other on the color wheel, like green and blue. The base coat can either be lighter or darker than the top color. If your base color is lighter than your top color, the 2 colors will look more blended. If your base color is darker, the top color will appear to be floating off of it. This is a lovely look but also shows flaws in the painting more clearly. The tray is wide enough to fit a roller and so will be useful when you roll the walls. Refill the paint tray as needed as you paint. Paint where the walls meet each other, the floor, the ceiling, and wood trim. Although you will apply most of the base color paint with a roller, the roller can't get into the tight corners, so you have to get into those little spaces with a paintbrush. A flat-tipped, 2 in (5 cm) polyester paint brush should work great for getting into the small corners and along the trim. Hold the roller at an angle to the wall, and apply slight pressure. Roll up and down, from floor to ceiling. Move to the side about three-quarters of a roller width each time, so you're always slightly overlapping the previous roll. Remember to only paint the regular walls of the bathroom. Do not paint any tile or concrete. Do not reload the roller with paint for this stage. Simply roll the roller up and down over the wall with very light pressure. This will smooth out any roller marks or paint build-up, leaving your base coat looking beautiful. Weather can affect drying time. If it's humid, let your base coat dry for an extra day after the first night of drying.
Apply painter's tape Make sure your bathroom is well ventilated. Apply primer, if needed. Select mildew-resistant paint for the base and latex glaze for the sponge coat. Pour some of the base coat paint into a paint tray. Use a paintbrush to apply the paint to the edges of the walls. Dip a paint roller into the base color and roll onto the bathroom walls. Smooth out roller marks with an unloaded roller. Let the base color dry overnight or until the paint is no longer tacky.