Q: A key sign of a happy vomiter is a cat that is otherwise well but has a tendency to eat grass and make herself sick. This is a predictable chain of events that you can generally observe on more than one occasion. Some cats make themselves sick once every two or three days, while others only make themselves sick once a week. Once they have induced vomiting they are content to wander off and perhaps even look for a snack. Other habits that may go along with eating grass include: Eating normally, keeping her food down at mealtime, maintaining weight, being active, and having a glossy coat. Wild cats will eat all of their preyincluding bones, fur, and stomach contents. When they do this, they digest what they can, and then vomit up the indigestible parts. Commercial cat foods lack the stimulus that causes cats to vomit, so some cats may make themselves vomit by eating grass. If your cat is a "happy" vomiter and seems otherwise perfectly well, mention this habit at the next veterinary checkup so that your vet can confirm there is no problem. These cats do need a medical workup to make a diagnosis. A "poor" or "poorly" vomiter is one who is losing weight, has difficulty keeping food down, has lost her appetite, has a dull starry coat, is drinking excessively, or becomes lethargic. Another reason to get your cat checked is if the vomiting becomes more frequent than it used to, for example, if it goes from once a week to daily. If in doubt and your cat vomits regularly, it is always safest to get her checked by a veterinarian.
A: Be aware that if your cat eats grass a lot, she may be a 'happy' vomiter. Understand that commercial cat food does not necessarily go with a cat's normal digestion process. Recognize signs of a 'poor' vomiter.

Q: As soon as you finish eating, fill a bucket with soap and water 100 yards (91m) downwind from your campsite. Scrub your cooking and eating utensils thoroughly with a disposable sponge. Rinse them with clean water over the bucket. Let the cooking and eating utensils air dry. Store them in an airtight plastic bag, or a food locker. Throw away your dish water in an area that is at least 100 yards (91m) downwind from your campsite. Make sure to throw the sponge away in a bear-proof disposal unit. Throw the trash away in a bear-proof disposal unit. If your campsite does not have a bear-proof disposal unit, then you will need to hang your trash up high in a tree. Campfires do not get hot enough to burn trash and excess food completely. Since bears and other wildlife are still attracted to partially burned food matter, you will only attract more bears if you dispose of your food by burning it. Additionally, burying your food is not an effective solution either.
A: Wash eating and cooking utensils immediately. Pack your trash in an airtight plastic bag. Avoid burning trash and excess food.

Q: Heat the kiln at a rate of +500F (+275C) per hour, until it reaches 1100F (590C). This will just start to heat the bottles. If you are using ceramic molds, you may want to use a slower heating rate to reduce the risk of cracking the molds. "Soaking" the glass at this temperature ensures that every part of the glass reaches the correct temperature. Pay close attention to the steps below to find out how long to keep the kiln at each temperature. This time, heat the kiln at a rate of no more than +250F (+140C) per hour, for a little more than an hour. At this point, the glass will just begin to lose its shape, especially in the middle. You can hold the temperature here for 20 minutes if you're aiming for a flatter, wider middle, or move on after a few minutes if you want the middle to keep more of its shape. Heat at a rate of +300F (+165C) per hour if using ceramic molds, or faster if not. Stay at this temperature until the bottles have slumped to the desired appearance. This is the step that changes most, based on your bottles, kiln, and desired appearance. Consider these numbers a starting point for your first project. Always wear eye protection while looking through a peephole. If your kiln doesn't have a window or peephole, you won't be able to check on the bottles. Lift the lid of the kiln taking care to protect yourself from the heat to cool the kiln rapidly until it reaches a temperature between 900 and 1100F (480 to 590C). The less time the bottle spends at high temperatures, the lower the chance of devitrification, or the forming of cloudy surface textures. Glass takes on significant stress when heated, and can crack or become brittle if it is not "annealed", a process in which the glass molecules are rearranged in a more stable pattern before they cool. There are two common ways to do this: The simplest method, which is usually sufficient for bottles, is to let the kiln cool gradually, never by more than -150F (-80C) per hour. If you kiln cools faster than this, you'll need to briefly fire it occasionally to counteract the cooling. For more effective annealing, leave the kiln at 900F (480C) for a full hour. Different types of glass have different optimal annealing temperatures, so to be extra-safe you could also leave it at 1000F (540C) and/or 800F (425C) for an hour each, starting with the highest temperature first. The bottles should have slumped flat. If you used kiln paper and the fibers stuck to the bottle, wear a respirator mask while cleaning them off the glass.
A:
Fire the kiln to 1100F (590C). Hold this temperature for ten minutes. Heat more slowly to 1300F (700C). Heat rapidly to about 1450F (790C). Flash vent the kiln to about 1000F (540C). Anneal the glass. Let the kiln cool to room temperature.