In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You can figure this out by picking lots, rolling a pair of dice, guessing numbers, or simply by age. For example, the youngest person could hold the ball first. Don't get too worked up over who gets to go first. Sometimes, it's actually better to go last, because then you'll have a chance to get to the really good gifts! Make the game more challenging by having the players wear gloves or mittens. The ball holder could also wear a blindfold. You really need a set of dice for this game because the entire goal is to roll a set of 2 matching numbers in order to pass the ball. If you can't get a pair of dice, then use just 1 die and pick a number to be the passing number. For example, if you have just 1 die, then you could settle on 6 for being the passing number. Don't blindfold the dice roller! They need to see what they are rolling, after all! This needs to happen at the same time. The goal for the ball holder is to unroll as many layers on the ball as possible until the person with the dice rolls a set of matching numbers. For example, the person with the dice can roll a set of 1s, or a set of 2, or a set of 3s, and so forth. If you're using just 1 die, then keep rolling it until you hit the passing number you settled on. This game will probably have several rounds, so consider giving the ball holder a basket or a goodie bag to store all of their items in. If you used multiple sheets of plastic wrap per item layer, have the ball holder crumple them up and set them aside. The person who just finished rolling the dice should now have the ball, while the person to their right should now have the dice. If you used 1 continuous sheet of plastic wrap for the ball, you might want to cut or tear it off at some point. This way, it won't get in the way. You get to keep whatever gifts you unwrapped. The faster you unwrap, the more gifts you'll get!
Summary: Gather in a circle and decide who gets to hold the ball first. Give a pair of dice to the right of the ball holder. Have the person unwrap the ball while the person tries to roll doubles. Allow the ball holder to gather their unwrapped items. Pass the ball and the dice to the right. Repeat the process until you reach the middle of the ball.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You will use thin set mortar to attach the tiles to the wall or other tiling surface. You'll need to mix the mortar according to the package instructions, but generally you want to start with the powder and add water very gradually. When the mortar has a consistency like peanut butter, you've got the right amount of water. Mix only what you can spread in 20 minutes. Let the mortar sit for 10 minutes, stir it up again and then it's ready to use. Spread the mortar using a notched trowel in a roughly 3'x3' space. Spread the mortar out and then use the trowel to create straight, parallel lines in the mortar. These will help the tiles adhere to the wall. You might want to do a test tile first, however, in order to make sure that your mortar is the right consistency. Place a tile down and them pull it back off: when you set the tile on the mortar, if the mortar comes up between the tiles so that it is even with the face of the tile, then your mortar is too thick or maybe wet. If you see lines of mortar on the back of your tile when you pull it up, then your mortar is too dry or the bed of mortar is too thin. Talk to your local hardware store about the trowel size that they would recommend for your particular project. Usually, glass tiles come in sheets and trowel with smaller notches will be needed. However, if you are using larger glass tiles that are not in a sheet, the average 3/8" trowel will probably be better. With the mortar in place, you can start setting out your tiles or tile sheets. Simply press them firmly into the mortar; push it solidly against the surface but remember that it's not toothpaste. You don't want to push the tile so that you disturb the mortar. You just want to get the tile to stick. Try to start in a corner or against a wall, to cut down on the amount of cutting and sizing that you need to do. Insert tile spacers between the tiles or tile sheets as you go. If you are using tile sheets, you can cut the sheets as needed to create a sheet of any size or shape for your project. You can also cut out the middle of a sheet in order to make space for outlets. Simply use a utility knife to cut the mesh backing. You will likely have a space that does not perfectly fit the tiles that you have, create a need for only a portion of a tile. In order to fill these gaps, you will need to cut the tiles to size. You will need to use a wet saw with a blade designed for glass in order to cut glass tiles. Be very careful and keep your fingers as far away from the blade as possible. The old rule of "measure twice, cut once" is your friend here. Be very sure about how much tile tile you need before you cut it. Once you've got all of your tiles in place, you can remove your tile spacers. If you mixed your mortar correctly, the tiles should now stay in place. You will now want to let the mortar thoroughly cure before you do the grout. This usually takes around 24 hours. Make sure that the area is well ventilated and that moisture is kept to a minimum.
Summary: Mix some thin set mortar. Spread the mortar. Lay your tiles. Cut tiles as needed. Remove the spacers before you continue. Let the thinset cure.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Stay on your knees and grab a hold of the uphaul, without pulling up the sail yet. Using a beginners board should mean you are pretty stable - rock back and forth on your feet to get a feel for it. Try to keep your back and body somewhat upright. If you feel your lower back starting to ache, you are bending over too much. This is called the "safety" or "control" position: total control with next to no power. With the mast straight up tilt the mast to your left. Your body should transfer this imbalance(the center of effort of the sail is not balanced with the center of lateral resistance of the board) to the board and make the board turn(or spin) clockwise. Tilt the mast to the right and the board will turn(or spin) counterclockwise(anticlockwise). The stronger the wind and the further you tilt the faster the board will turn(or spin). In a stiff breeze you may be sailing very slowly at this point. Another steering description is as you tilt the mast to the stern the board will head up in to the wind. This is also described in the turning section of this doc. Tilting the mast to the front makes the board bear off from the wind. Look and see which side the bow of the board is in relation to you, and place your lower hand on the boom so the mast is leading the sail towards the bow(front). When you feel ready, transfer the other hand to the boom. Don't let the sail pull you down - the mast should be perpendicular to the board, so lean back and keep the arms straight. This is called the Number 7, and that should indicate the posture to you! Keep your feet behind the mast foot, with the toes of the front foot facing forwards. If you need to stop, return to the safety position, or drop the boom if it is safe to do so. Make sure it goes in front of you, and bear in mind you will get very tired if you have to keep on picking it up!
Summary:
Push the board out into deep water until the fin is clear of the bottom. Get a sense of the wind direction, and maneuver the board so that the sail is downwind of the board. Swim or walk to the upwind side and clamber onto the board - elegance is not required! Raise to your feet at a slow pace. Bend your knees slightly and pull the sail up from the water with the uphaul, hand over hand like hauling in a rope. Take hold of the mast with both hands and let it swing. Practice steering(called Center of Effort Steering) in the "safety" position. Start moving. Pull with the stern wards hand (the back hand) to accelerate - let it out to slow down. Relax!