When you're picking a vehicle to drag race, there are a lot of things to consider beyond how fast your vehicle can rip away from the starting line. Cost, your commitment to rebuilding an repairing the vehicle, and your ultimate ambitions for the car should be taken into account. Most drag racers want basically the same thing: a throaty beast of a dragster with a great paint job, equally great looking when parked in the lot, as it looks when its blowing past you in the passing lane. Ideally, you want a light that's amenable to lots of modifications. A good dragster often has an engine modified with aftermarket cams, heads, and other components, to maximize the horsepower so it runs in excess of 600 or 700 HP. If you've got that, you'll have a muscle-monster. But for many drivers, anything beyond 500 HP is excessive. That's still an insanely fast car. Many aspiring dragsters probably have a frame or a model in mind when they're getting started, because of the look. A '57 Chevy Bel Air is a perfectly-great drag strip candidate for some classic-car enthusiasts, but for others that heavy frame might outweigh the style points. Hot-rodding for the drag strip is, above all else, a great nostalgia project. Get a hold of the Corvette model your dad always lusted after when you were a kid, painted sea-foam green, a car he never got to drive. Or maybe you want a Mustang just like the one Steve McQueen drove for the classic chase scenes in Bullitt. Maybe you want to go all-out and get an old Chevy Apache frame from the '40s and make a funny car to crack up the boys down at the track. There's no wrong choice, if you like the car. Most cars that are successful on the strip are light in body and easy to work on. For this reason, you'll typically see a lot of Fox-body Mustangs built between the late 70s and early 90s, which are super-light and can take almost any engine you want to throw in it. Hemi? Flathead V-8? You can make it work in a Mustang body. Because Mustangs are almost ubiquitous at American tracks, they lose a little cache. They're great to work with, but do you really want to be another guy with the same looking car? Trans-Ams, Z28s, and Chargers all have similar characteristics, with great factory-built specs. The Charger McQueen drove was basically straight from the factory, with some suspension work done. If it was good enough for Bullitt . How fast do you want your car to go? What kind of engine do you want to build? What kind of engine can the body of your vehicle take? Much of the work and much of the fun that goes into planning a hot rod project will come with making these decisions for yourself. A good drag engine should maximize horsepower, probably using some aftermarket modifications to maximize the efficiency of the engine. Hydraulic roller cams and aftermarket cylinder heads are a common modification. Depending on the engine, you should be able to use at least some of the factory components in the drivetrain to keep the project as affordable as possible. Try to set a limit for yourself. Sure, you can say you want to have a 1,000 HP dragon-breather going in that Trans-Am, but the cost of the all the aftermarket drive train components necessary? The stress upgrades necessary for the chassis? If you can get 500 HP at street-level, you won't have to worry about getting embarrassed at the track. Ever. Try to keep your ambitions practical, Mr. Andretti. As you increase the power in your engine, the stock suspension will quickly become unsuitable. One of the most important modifications that you'll need to make in a serious drag racer is in the suspension. Make sure you upgrade the suspension after increasing the power, to make sure you match the stress specs to the new power of the vehicle. If your dragster has rear leaf springs, consider upgrading to CalTrac bars to increase the stability and the control. If your rod comes with coil-spring suspension, using aftermarket control arms is the best approach. You can also check out the possibility of using "no-hop" to modify the geometrical center of the suspension, giving your more muscle in your starts. Some racers will unhook the front sway bar and install drag-style coil springs. Drag racing stresses the axles, making problems common, so it's a good idea to get shocks made for the purposes of standing up to the stress. . After the Fast and Furious movies, everybody and his brother wants to hit a nitrous button and blow the competition off their rear bumper. Using a small nitrous system for your races will allow you to use a more basic torque converted for driving on the street and the highway at normal speeds. It can also help keep your engine leaner, making it easier to run at a low compression ratio. Naturally-aspirated engines will require a bigger cam and will need to process higher-octane fuel if the compression ratio rises. The more you modify the factory parts, the more problems you'll encounter from those modifications, especially if you're running your dragster rough and stressing the accelerator. Hot rods commonly have problems with overheating, making some precautions necessary. You might not have any problems if you've done your mods correctly, but it's still a good idea to keep an eye out for potential problem areas. Install a bigger radiator to keep the vehicle from overheating and check your fuel pump regularly. Running your drag car aggressively will wear out these components very quickly. Make sure you have a sensitive an accurate heat gauge and monitor it closely when you're driving.
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One-sentence summary -- Choose between style and speed. Pick something that you'll enjoy working on. Start with a light frame with high aftermarket potential. Consider rebuilding the engine or installing a new engine Upgrade the suspension with control arms and drag shocks. Install a power-adder if you want to run your car on the street Keep a close eye out for overheating with modified muscle cars.

Article: Scroll over to the tab for the Build mode part of the catalog. Hit the X button to select the Walls and Fences section. This opens the removal wall and fencing tool. Now that you have the wall tool available, move it to one of the corners of the wall or the spot you wish to remove. First, press the X button. Then, stretch this wall tool out to cover the area you wish to remove by using your Left Analog stick till you have sufficiently covered the amount you want to remove. Notice that it has all X's on it and that it is green. This means you have selected to remove a wall or a fence and it is allowing you to do so]. Press the X button again to remove the wall section. Just hit the Triangle button to exit.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Select "Walls and Fences". Now hit the Square button. Place the wall tool where you need it. Stretch the wall tool to cover the entire section you want to delete. Delete the wall.