Q: Get him/her to swim short distances in the shallow end of the pool, in a simple stroke which he/she feels comfortable with. Don't push the learner to do too much at the moment - this will probably be the first few strokes of his/her life. This may not happen immediately. In fact, it will probably take many learning sessions to get to this stage. Make sure to support him/her both physically and mentally - this will be hard for him/her. This will help him/her decide which one he/she likes best. Get him/her to swim a width of freestyle, backstroke, breaststroke, and any other easy-to-hard stroke you can think of. Don't put too much pressure on the learner. Make it fun for the student so that he/she will want to learn more.
A: Take the first steps to swimming. Swim widths of the pool with the learner. Get the learner to try out different strokes.

Q: Soil type and drainage will influence how often you need to water your roses. Sandy soil will drain easily and won't retain water very well. If your garden has clay-type soil then it will retain moisture better. However, if the soil is extremely clay-heavy, you'll need to add some compost or similar horticultural material to improve it at planting time. Obviously plants need watering during hot, dry weather. But you should also be aware that wind can dry out plants a great deal, even in cold weather. Newly planted roses may be at risk of drought during a dry, windy fall or winter. As a rough guide, in extremely hot weather you should assume rose plants will need watering daily. On a standard summer day with decent heat, you will need to water every two or three days, and in warm dry weather you will only need to water about once a week. Also consider how windy it is when deciding how much to water your plants: windy weather means more water is required. Recently-planted roses still haven't developed their root structure, so if you've planted in the last few months it is especially important to water the roses regularly during dry spells even if you planted just before winter. Lack of water is the most common reason newly planted plants fail. Once established, plants will be more adept at seeking water from a wider area of soil, so you can start to ease off your watering regime after six months. Larger rose bushes will have roots spread over a wider area of soil than smaller ones. This means larger rose bushes will require more water to ensure the water reaches all of their roots. Another way to assess if roses need watering is to dig a few inches into the soil next to the plant, taking care not to damage the roots. If the soil is dry under the surface, then you need to water the rose now. If only the surface is dry, you can wait a bit longer before watering.
A: Identify the type of soil in your garden. Consider the yearly weather conditions. Think about the age of your roses. Pay attention to the size of your rose bush. Determine how dry the soil is.

Q: These are relatively simple to get. You can get cheaper models from general stores online. These might cost you anything from $5 to $25. If you've been using a straight razor for a while, you'll want to invest in a strop that will last longer. You can get these from stores that sell straight razors. These will usually by at least $50. There are three types of strops. The most common type is the straight strop, which is a strap that you hang up. The paddle strop is essentially a wooden paddle with a piece of leather attached to it. Loom strops are similar to paddle strops, except the leather runs around a wooden frame like a drumskin rather than being attached. You should hold the strop so it points downwards and towards you at about a 45 degree angle. This makes stropping the straight razor simpler and makes you less likely to cut into the leather (especially if you're a beginner.) The specific location of the anchor point doesn't really matter; you just need to make sure it won't move while you strop. Examples of a good anchor point include door handles and towel bars. If you're using a paddle or loom strop, you'll instead want to lay one end of it on a stable surface. Hold the handle and lift so the strop is at about a 30 degree angle. The blade's spine should be pointing away from you and the edge toward you. You should keep the blade lifted slightly, so the edge is making contact with the strop at a slight angle. Use light pressure as you push the razor away from you. Once you've reached the end of the strop, flip the razor so the spine is now pointing towards you. Try to make sure the blade is always touching the strop as you roll the razor between your fingers to flip it. It takes some practice, but eventually this will make stropping the razor quicker and more efficient. These models typically aren't wide enough to cover the razor's blade. This means that, as you slide your razor up and down the strop, you'll also need to slide it sideways to cover the entire blade. The simplest method involves moving the blade towards your right as you push it away from you, and towards the left when you bring the razor back.
A: Acquire a strop. Hang up one end of the strop and hold it tautly towards you. Slide the razor along the strop, away from you. Flip the razor over at the end of the strop. Use an X pattern on two inch (5cm) strops.

Q: Each Minesweeper game starts out with a grid of unmarked squares. After clicking one of these squares, some of the squares will disappear, some will remain blank, and some will have numbers on them. It's your job to use the numbers to figure out which of the blank squares have mines and which are safe to click. Minesweeper is similar to a Sudoku puzzle in that your success is largely contingent on being able to eliminate possible answers until only one answer remains. The mouse is the only tool that you'll need to play Minesweeper. The left mouse button is used to click squares that don't contain mines, while the right mouse button is used to flag squares that contain mines. On higher difficulties, you'll need to mark squares that you suspect contain mines until you can verify that they do contain mines. The first square that you click will never have a mine beneath it; clicking a square will clear off some of the board while numbering other squares. A number on a square refers to the number of mines that are currently touching that square. For example, if there are two squares touching each other and one of the squares has "1" on it, you know that the square next to it has a mine beneath it.
A:
Understand the principles behind Minesweeper. Use the mouse's left and right buttons. Don't worry about your first click. Know what the numbers mean.