In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Look over the notes you took in your section-by-section evaluation. Come up with a thesis, then outline how you intend to support your thesis in the body of your review. Include specific examples that reference the strengths and weaknesses that you noted in your evaluation. Your thesis and evidence should be constructive and thoughtful. Point out both strengths and weaknesses, and propose alternative solutions instead of focusing only on weaknesses. A good, constructive thesis would be, "The article demonstrates that the drug works better than a placebo in specific demographics, but future research that includes a more diverse subject sampling is necessary." After forming a thesis and making an outline, you're ready to start composing your review. While the structure will depend on your publication's guidelines, you can typically follow these general guidelines: The introduction summarizes the article and states your thesis. The body provides specific examples from the text that support your thesis. The conclusion summarizes your review, restates your thesis, and offers suggestion for future research. After writing your first draft, check for typos and make sure your grammar and punctuation are correct. Try to read your work as if you were someone else. Is your critique fair and balanced, and do the examples you included support your argument? Make sure your writing is clear, concise, and logical. If you mention that an article is too verbose, your own writing shouldn't be full of unnecessarily complicated terms and sentences. If possible, have someone familiar with the topic read your draft and offer feedback.
Summary: Outline your review. Write your review's first draft. Revise your draft before submitting it.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Stains generally come in two varieties -- oil and water based. Oil based is easier to apply but harder to clean up, and requires a well-ventilated work area. Water-based stains are cleaner, non-toxic, and tend to have lighter colors. If you have lots of space and fresh air, oil-based stains are generally preferable. Gel stains are hybrids that are easy to apply and clean. However, they can be significantly more expensive. If you want to stain the wood a darker color than it is now or the wood is unfinished (its original color), you can skip to the next step. If not, you need to remove any coatings or old coloring using a chemical stripper. To do so, use a coarse-grit sandpaper (60-100 grit) to sand off as much as possible. For deep stains that sanding doesn't cover you can use a chemical stripper: Work in a well-ventilated area, with eye and hand protection. Apply a thick coat of stripper over everything, letting sit according to the directions. Use a putty knife and steel wool to remove the stripper after the required time. Wipe any excess stripper off with a damp cloth and let it all dry. Use a hand sander to smooth the wood. Make sure you sand in the direction of the wood grain, along the natural lines in the alder wood. Wipe the wood down with a cloth after every sanding, removing the dust from the surface. Tack clothes will work the best at picking everything up. Hit the wood again with a nice, fine-grit paper, which will smooth it out attractively. For the best results you should work your way up, using 180-200 sandpaper, then 200-220, and then a final pass with an ultra-fine grit. Wipe off the dust with your tack paper whenever you switch to a new grit. This helps clean the wood and brings out its natural coloring. A rag is fine, and can be used to rub a light coating of mineral spirits on everything. Let it sit for 2-3 minutes, then wipe off with a clean cloth. Alder wood is not an easy wood to stain, as it absorbs the stain unevenly. If you want a weathered, rustic look then this is a good thing -- skip the wood conditioner and move on. However, for a nice even coat, you must apply a wood conditioner. Stir the wood conditioner thoroughly. Use a clean rag to apply a thin, even layer of conditioner on the wood. Let the conditioner soak in and dry for 15 minutes. Remove any excess conditioner with a clean rag. The conditioner will get the wood ready for stain, but it will start to evaporate out if you wait too long. Conditioner should be applied, dried, and wipe clear within two hours of staining.
Summary: Choose your stain. Remove any existing stain or paint using a chemical stripper, coarse sandpaper, or both. Use a medium-grit sandpaper, around 120 grit, on the entire piece of wood. Finish sanding with a fine-grit paper, 200 grit or above. Wipe the wood down with mineral spirits after sanding. Apply a wood conditioner, helping absorb pigments more thoroughly. Be ready to stain within two hours of applying conditioner.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: The Big Dipper is shaped like a bowl and a handle. There are three stars in the Big Dipper's handle organized in a line. There are 4 stars that make up the Big Dipper's bowl (it looks like an irregular square). The entire Big Dipper looks somewhat like a kite, with the string being the handle and the bowl being the kite itself. The last two stars of the Big Dipper's handle are called the pointers. They are called Dubhe and Merak. The brightest star is Alioth, which is the third star on the handle, closest to the bowl. The tip of the Big Dipper's handle is called Alkaid. It is a hot star that means "the leader." It is the third brightest star in Ursa Major and six times bigger than the sun. Mizar is next on the handle after Alkaid. It actually consists of two double stars. Megrez is the star that connects the tail to the base of the bowl. It is the dimmest of the seven stars of the Big Dipper. Phecda is known as the "thigh of the bear." It is located to the South of Megrez and makes up part of the bow. If you can find the North Star, you should be able to find the Big Dipper, and vice versa. The North Star is usually bright. To find it, look into the north sky up about one third of the way from the horizon to the top of the sky (which is called the zenith). The North Star is also called Polaris. The Big Dipper rotates around the North Star through all of the seasons and through the night. The stars of the Big Dipper are as bright as those of the North Star. The North Star is often used for navigation because it points "true north." The North Star is the brightest star in the Little Dipper and the end of its handle. Trace an imaginary line from the North Star downward, and you should be able to find the two stars in the end of the Big Dipper's handle, which are called pointer stars because they point toward the Big Dipper. Polaris is about five stars farther away from the distance between the pointer stars themselves. The Big Dipper is what is called circumpolar. This means it doesn't rise or set like the sun. Instead, it rotates around the north celestial pole. Throughout the night, it rotates around the pole, counter-clockwise, bowl first. It makes a complete revolution around the pole once per sidereal day. A sidereal day is defined as four minutes shorter than the standard 24-hour day. Thus, you can use the Big Dipper's rotations to keep track of time.
Summary:
Spot the Big Dipper. Find the North Star. Use the Big Dipper to tell time.