Problem: Article: Surface planers are mechanical tools that use rollers and an adjustable set of spinning blades to plane a piece of wood to a uniform thickness automatically. Surface planers are a great time-saving tool for experienced woodworkers, but it's important to know that many surface planers only plane the surface of a piece of wood relative to the opposite surface. In other words, if the bottom of the wood isn't perfectly flat, the planer will maintain this imperfection on the top surface. Because of this, you'll want to use your planer for smoothing wood surfaces only if the flatness of the opposite surface is assured. All surface planers will somehow allow you to adjust how "deep" the wood will be planed. Often, this is via a hand-operated crank that lifts the planer's housing - the higher the housing, the shallower the planer will cut. As with a hand planer, it's wise to initially make shallow cuts. You can always cut more deeply, but you can't "undue" what you've already cut. Often, the "depth" of the cut itself isn't displayed on the planer, but the actual thickness that the wood is being planed to. Thus, to plane a 2 inch thick piece of wood by 1/16 inch, you would set the planer to 1 15/16 inch and so on. Note that most planers shouldn't be set to plane off more than 1/16 or 1/8 inch at a time - doing so is hard on both the wood and the planer. Many planers offer the capability to "lock" the planer from cutting beneath a certain depth via a mechanism called a depth stop. For instance, if the depth stop is set to 1 inch, the planer will not be able to plane the wood to a thickness less than 1 inch. This is a useful feature to have if you're worried about accidentally over-planing. If you don't want to use the depth stop, set it to a very low level - one much lower than the thickness of your board - so that you'll never hit this lower limit. When your planer is running, carefully feed the wood into the planer in a straight, controlled motion. After the wood is caught by the rollers, it should begin to feed through on its own. Keep in mind that, as with a hand plane, you'll want your planer to cut along the grain of your wood to prevent tear-out. Repeat the planing process as needed until your wood is a desired level of thickness. You can track your wood's process by scribbling lightly on the surface to be planed with a pencil before planing. As your planer removes high spots in the wood, you'll see the lines of your pencil begin to disappear. "Snipe" is a condition that surface planers can sometimes produce on a piece of wood. Essentially, the planer's rollers pull upward on the wood, causing slightly deeper cuts at the edges of the wood than in the middle. To counteract this, pull up on the end of your wood as it passes through both the front and back rollers of the planer. In other words, pull up on the "back" end of your wood as you feed it into the machine, then pull up on the "front" end of the wood as it passes out of the machine. Usually, mechanical planers are very loud. Prevent damage to your ears by wearing appropriate ear protection, like ear plugs or earmuffs. Additionally, planers produce lots of airborne dust, so if you don't have equipment in place to vacuum up the dust as it's being created (like a dust collector), you'll want to use eye protection and a surgical mask to protect yourself.
Summary: Note that surface planers generally require pieces of wood with one flat surface. Set the planer to your desired thickness. Optionally, set the depth stop. Turn the planer on and pass your wood through. Pull up on the wood as it passes the rollers to avoid snipe. Use ear, eye, and/or mouth protection as needed.

Problem: Article: The low sitting bridge will divide the long vertical line of your nose more evenly, so the bottom portion of your nose--the portion that the eye naturally catches--will seem smaller. A wide bridge creates a stronger, more visible divide. Larger frames are generally a better option than smaller ones. The large frames can compete with the size of your nose and help balance it out, but smaller frames can draw more attention to the size of your nose. The other option is to go for contacts. Since glasses sit at the top of your nose, they do draw some attention to that area of your face. Getting contacts avoids this issue completely. Your ears and nose share the same horizontal space on your face. Short, dainty earrings can draw attention to this horizontal space, which could also draw attention to your nose. Larger earrings that extend below the ear enlarge the sides of this horizontal space, making the nose at the center of this space appear smaller by comparison. If you do not want to wear long earrings, at least choose short earrings that cover the earlobes completely. This will draw more attention to the sides of this horizontal space, which can help draw attention off your nose. Rounded earrings that occupy both horizontal and vertical space are better than earrings that only add a vertical dimension. Earrings that emphasize straight, vertical lines will also emphasize the straight, vertical line of the nose. Both men and women should look for hat styles that have a rounded or down-turned brim at the front of the face. A brim that hangs down over the front of the face can visually build out the forehead. As a result, the nose appears shorter and more proportionate. Avoid "tricorne" styles, which meet at a point above the forehead. Hats that have a larger brim in the front than in the back may build out the forehead better than those with an even brim all around. Make sure that the crown does not pinch in too tightly toward the front of the face. Ideally, this crown should also be of medium height to maintain better visual balance, and it should not taper in much toward the top. Consider choosing a hat with a wide, colorful band above the brim. This band can draw the eye up and away from the nose.
Summary:
Choose glasses with a wide, low bridge. Wear large earrings. Pick a hat with a prominent brim.