This is when you pull fibers from material to be spun and thin them down to form the size of the yarn you want to spin. If you draft more fibers, your yarn will be thicker; less fibers and it will be thinner. If your fiber is in a long, continuous narrow strip, this is the form of fiber processing called roving. If it's in a wide, rolled-up bundle that unrolls into a wide rectangle, that is the form of fiber processing called a batt. Pick a strip about 12 inches (30.5cm) long and approximately thickness of your thumb (this doesn't have to be exact). Hold the strip of fiber in one hand (doesn't matter which). Pull a few fibers from one end of your strip with your other hand. Drafting things the fiber down the the desired thickness for your spun yarn. The spinning process will twist the fibers, which also thin them down. As you get better at drafting and spinning, you'll find it easier to judge the size of your drafts. The leader is a piece of yarn that has previously been spun and can be attached to the shaft of your bobbin. Cut a piece of yarn about 36 inches (91.4cm) and tie it to the shaft of your bobbin. Make sure that you tie it snugly. Pull the leader through the orifice on your spinning wheel. Once you do this you're ready to begin the actual spinning! If you're just starting to spin, it's a good idea to practice spinning just with the leader so you get a feel for how the spinning wheel works, how to start spinning the wheel just with the treadles. You will want to overlap them for about four to six inches. You'll hold the bundle of fiber in one hand (the fiber hand), and the leader and fiber in the other hand (this is the drafting hand). You want to make sure that the wheel is going in a clockwise motion. This will create the "Z" twist in your single strand of spun yarn. Allow the leader and the fiber to twist together, holding them for a moment while they twist, so that they are secure. Make sure you let the wheel take up the fiber as you draft more fiber. Overlap un-spun and spun fiber, holding it with your non-dominant hand and turn the wheel clockwise. This will cause the fiber to twist, which is what turns the fiber into yarn. Make sure that your drafting hand is between the fiber hand and orifice of your spinning wheel. You don't, however, have to keep your hands close to the orifice as you spin. Always make sure to spin the wheel in a clockwise manner. You will want to slide your drafting hand towards the bundle of fiber to draft more fiber to be spun. It's best when you're just starting to stop spinning, draft the fiber, and then spin, then stop and draft again. As you grow more comfortable, it will turn into one continuous motion. Take care that you don't allow the twist to travel to the fiber in your fiber hand. Your non-dominant hand should be closest to the wheel and the dominant hand closer to you. You will do this once the spindle is full. Wrap around your hand and elbow, much like winding cord and tie at intervals with acrylic yarn. This is when you might use the implement known as the "niddy-noddy." Wrap the yarn from the bobbin onto the niddy. This will create a large loop in a small amount of space, which you'll then tie in sections and remove by sliding it off one shoulder of the niddy. You'll do this by soaking the skein in hot water and hanging it to dry. You can use a plastic hanger, or hang it over a drying rack. Hang something heavy from the skein while drying.
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One-sentence summary -- Draft the wool. Set up the leader on your spinning wheel. Place your fiber alongside the leader. Begin treadling. Begin to spin. Draft more wool onto the leader. Unwind your yarn and make into a skein. Set the twist.

Q: You'll need to first determine where the center is. To do this, lay the t-shirt flat with the front facing you. Measure the width of the collar, and using your fabric marker place a dot in the middle. This is where you will cut. Most crew-neck t-shirt collars are ribbed and should give several inches. Stretch one side at a time along the length of the V, pining as you go. Place pins approximately every inch (2.5 cm) to make sure the collar stretches and stays before you sew it. Do the same thing on the other side. The rough edge of the collar should be paired with the rough edge of the t-shirt, with the edge of the collar facing the outside of the shirt. Sew approximately a quarter inch (0.6 cm) from the edge of the two layers. When you sew down the second side of the collar, stop just a little before you get to the V and sew that end to the back of the first side. Finish by pressing the new hem down with an iron. Make sure the thread in your sewing machine matches the color of the shirt. If you don't have a sewing machine, you can also hand sew the sides of the collar to the sides of the V.
A: Cut the front of the detached crew collar in the center. Stretch each side of the cut collar along the length of your V-neck. Pin the rough edge of the collar to the shirt. Sew from the top of the collar down to the bottom of the V.

Article: This can be square or rectangle. the 5 sides together at the edges to form the corners.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Determine the dimensions of your finished box. Chain the length of your desired side. Single crochet to the desired height. Repeat for each side. Arrange the completed sides so that adjacent sides touch. Slip stitch