Run some warm water into a sink or shallow basin. Add a small amount of mild liquid soap to the water and make sure it's evenly distributed to form a soapy solution. For the purpose of cleaning circulating currency that changes hands often, most standard dish or hand soaps will work. Mild soaps are preferable if you're a collector or wish to preserve the condition of the coin. Most detergents contain abrasive elements that can wear away a coin's detailing. Place the dirty coins into the soapy water solution. Allow them to soak anywhere from ten minutes to half an hour, depending on how soiled they are. The warm water will loosen the caked-on dirt and grime, while the soap will kill bacteria and eat away at stains. You will be able to observe the water darken as the dirt soaks out of the coins. Yuck! Use a sponge, scrubber, or cue tip to lightly scour the outer surface of the coins after they've had a chance to soak for a while. Be sure to throw the scrubber away after using it to clean coins. Once the coins have had ample time to soak, drain the dirty water from the sink or basin. Then, transfer the coins to a kitchen strainer to rinse them, or simply hold them up to the faucet by hand. Run cool water over both faces of the coins until all traces of soap have been rinsed away. Failure to rinse the coins sufficiently can cause them to retain a thin coating of soap that dirt and grime can later stick to. Lay out an absorbent towel and place the coins on top. Pat the coins with one end of the towel to remove excess water, then let them air dry. In roughly ten minutes, the coins will be clean, dry, and ready to be handled without worry. Don't allow water to stand on coins that have been washed and rinsed. The moisture can damage or discolor the metal, or even cause it to tarnish.
++++++++++
One-sentence summary -- Fill a sink or basin with warm water and mix in a gentle soap. Soak the dirty coins in the soapy water. Rinse the coins thoroughly. Set the coins on a towel to dry.

Q: You can find tube testers by searching for them online. Check online tube stores and auction sites to find a variety of testers. Select 1 that fits your budget. Used ones start at about $35 USD. Because the technology is rarely used these days, expect quality store-bought testers to cost a couple hundred of dollars. Emission testers only show whether or not a tube is working. Mutual conductance testers show how well a tube is working. A series of numbers and letters is printed on the side of every tube. This code is what you use to figure out where to place the tube in the tester. For example, the lettering on the tube reads something like "12AX7." To find out which socket the tube goes in, use the chart that came with the tester. Look up the number and letter code in the chart to select the correct socket. If you don't have a chart, try searching for the tester brand online to find a manual. Before turning on the electricity, give the vacuum tube a quick inspection. Notice any evidence of broken glass or bent pins inside the tube. Loose parts or discolorations are signs that the tube needs to be replaced. If you see that the tube is broken, don't test it. It could damage the tester. Using the code on the vacuum tube, look at the testing chart again. Set the tester's switches according to the chart's instructions. This turns on the electrical connection, causing the tube to function. The testing results depend on what kind of tester you have. First, look for a red and green gauge with a needle. If the needle moves into the green zone, the tube still works. If the tester doesn't have this gauge, it will give you a number look up in the chart. Look up a vacuum tube reading table for more information on how to read the Gm number and what it means.
A: Purchase a tube tester. Look at the print on the vacuum tube to identify it. Insert the tube into the tester's socket. Look for visible signs of damage on the tube. Turn the tester on according to the chart. Check the test results to see if the tube works.

Article: The wall needs to be smooth and clean before you apply the tiles to the backsplash area. Take some time to inspect the wall where you will be applying the tiles to spot any damages that exist. You should patch holes in the wall with spackling compound or joint compound and then sand the surface if you spot damaged areas. Take mild detergent and water, and clean the walls. You could use dish detergent. Remember that some adhesives won't adhere to grease. You can also clean walls with trisodium phosphate and water. Look for this cleaner in home project stores. If you spot any oil or grease stains, clean those too. You can do so with a degreaser or a primer if a soft cloth with detergent doesn't do the job. Let the surface dry before you continue with installation. Figure out where the tile is going to go before you actually apply it to the kitchen wall. Sometimes, it works best to center your tile around a focal point like a faucet. Mark the start and the end point for the tile so you know how much you are going to need and where you plan to put it. Lay out the tile on the floor or on a large table to make sure the layout works, then measure it to be sure it fits the dimensions on the wall. Use tile spacers to account for grout. Put tile spacers in the corners of the tiles as you lay them to create even grout lines. Some smaller tiles have small protrusions called lugs that fit into the tiles next to them to create space for the grout. Grout is a mortar or paste used to fill the spaces between the tiles, giving it a finished look. Start with the spot on the wall that you can most easily see. Then, move outward and upward from that point. Use a level or straight edge to make sure the tile isn't crooked. You might need to cut tiles if they won't fit. A tile cutter will work for ceramic or porcelain tiles. Natural stone or thicker glass tiles may require a wet saw. Be very careful when using any cutting instruments. Purchase powdered thin-set mortar for natural stone mosaic tile. You will want to get this ready next. If you have ceramic or porcelain tiles, you may purchase mastic adhesive instead. The mortar package will instruct you on how much water to put in the bucket, in addition to the mortar powder. Mix it. Mastic adhesive is often already mixed by the manufacturer. Let the mortar stand for about 5 to 10 more minutes, and then mix it again. Usually, you will only have a few hours to use the mortar after mixing it. Again, check the directions on the package. There are some mortars that you use right away after mixing. Again check the package for instructions as it can vary by brand! Many people suggest mastic adhesive glue for ceramic or porcelain tiles, and mortar for natural stone or other tile backsplashes. Start spreading the mortar or mastic on the wall where you will place the tiles. You will want to begin with a 2-foot section. Spread the mortar in a thin layer by using a trowel. Press it at a 45 degree angle. This method will make the mortar fully adhere to the wall. Now, use a notched edge of the trowel to add more mortar on it, and comb even ridges in one direction. Working in small sections helps prevent the mortar from drying as you apply the tile. Use the trowel to apply mastic in similar fashion. You will want to use the right trowel size. If you are using natural stone tile, you will want a notch trowel that is by inch in size. You may choose thinset/adhesive for glass tile instead or tile with adhesive on the backs.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Prep the wall. Pre-lay the tile. Prepare the mortar. Apply adhesive.