Q: Counterfeit money will often feel distinctly different from authentic money. Authentic money is made from cotton and linen fibers. This differs significantly from normal paper, which is made from trees. Real money is made to be more durable and should feel crisp despite its age; normal paper becomes torn and soft when worn. The paper that banknotes are printed on is not sold commercially. Also, the chemical composition of the paper and ink is confidential. Even if you do not have much experience in spotting a counterfeit, you should notice a clear difference in texture. Genuine currency has slightly raised ink that is produced in the intaglio printing process. You should be able to feel the texture of this ink, especially if you are holding a new dollar bill. Run your fingernail over the portrait's vest of the bill. You should feel distinctive ridges. Counterfeiters cannot reproduce this. Genuine money is often thinner than counterfeit money. The process for making money involves applying thousands of pounds of pressure during the printing process. As a result, real money should feel thinner and crisper than regular paper. The only option available to most counterfeiters is to use thin rag paper, which can be purchased at most office supply stores. Still, this paper should feel thicker than authentic money. Different denominations will look different, so get a note of the same amount. If you are still suspicious about the quality of a bill, holding it next to a bill you know is authentic may help you feel a difference. All denominations, except the $1 and $2, have been redesigned at least once since 1990, so it is best to compare the suspect bill to one in the same series, or date. While the look of money has changed over the years, the distinctive feel has been left largely unchanged. The feel of a bill made 50 years ago should feel similar to a brand new dollar bill.
A: Feel the texture of the paper. Notice the thinness of the bill. Compare the bill with another of the same denomination and series.

Q: Toner works best on hair that's already been bleached, because it will lighten or darken strands that are already around the shade you want. After bleaching, wash your hair with shampoo to remove the bleach. If you're toning immediately afterwards, don't condition just yet. Although many people choose to tone right after bleaching, you may need a few days to buy your toner or to decide if you want to use one at all. Don't worry! You can tone your hair at any point after bleaching it. After washing out the bleach, scrunch a towel gently through your hair. It's easiest to apply toner to hair that's still a bit wet, so dry your hair enough so that it's still slightly damp but not dripping. If you're not using toner right after bleaching, simply wash your hair with shampoo beforehand and towel dry the same way. Toner will stain your hands, so it's best to protect them with disposable gloves. It will also leave spots on your clothing, so wear a shirt you don't care about staining. If you have long hair, several inches past your shoulders, use the whole bottle of toner. Fill up the empty bottle twice with developer and pour it into the same bowl. If your hair is shorter, just below or at your shoulders, you can use half a bottle of toner and twice as much developer. Use hair ties or long plastic hair clips and let the very bottom layer hang down. This is where most people have the most brassy, orange tones, so it's a good place to start your toning. Starting with a small section of hair on one side, paint the toner on evenly from root to tip. The strands should look darker and wetter once the toner is fully on. Work from one side to the other, using a mirror to make sure you don't miss any sections. Unclip your hair and take down another thin layer. Repeat the process of brushing on the toner with this layer, then move on to the next until you reach the top layer and all your hair has been covered in toner. Focus on your roots and the back of your head, which are often the hardest parts to hit with the applicator brush. Remember to keep your gloves on through this process so you don't stain your hands. It's okay if you don't have any extra toner mixture left to apply. This is just a way of making sure you don't waste any leftover. Your hair will start to look dark and blue or even purple, but don't worry. This is a normal part of the toning process, and your hair definitely won't be purple when you wash it out. If you want to minimize the staining on your shirt, you can clip your hair up with a plastic clip while you wait for it to process. It's best to wait at least 24 hours before you shampoo your newly-toned hair to make sure the color won't fade before it's fully set in. Instead, rinse your hair with cool water in the shower and rub in a moisturizing conditioner from the middle of your head down to your tips. Wella makes moisturizing conditioner that you can order online from beauty supply stores and Amazon.
A: Apply toner right after bleaching for the fastest results. Towel dry your hair but leave it somewhat damp. Pull on some plastic or latex gloves and an old T-shirt. Mix 2 parts developer with 1 part toner in a bowl. Clip up the top few layers of your hair. Brush on the toner with the applicator brush. Let down more hair to tone when you finish with the base layer. Scrunch any leftover mixture through your hair with your hands. Let it process for 20 minutes. Rinse out the toner and apply a moisturizing conditioner.

Q: Carbide scribes are tipped with tungsten carbide, a high-quality cutting material that's used in some of the best glass cutters. For cutting glass without a glass cutter, a scribe will be your best option. These tools don't have a cutting wheel, but the tip of the scribe is extremely fine and can easily score glass. You should be able to purchase a carbide scribe at most large hardware stores or home-improvement stores. It costs less than $10 USD. Diamond scribes are used to score sheets of metal for cutting in industrial settings. As such, they're more than sharp enough to score a sheet of mirror glass. They'll also last longer than most carbide scribes. You can purchase a diamond scribe through large online retailers or at some craft-supply stores. Diamond tipped scribes are about twice as expensive as the carbide tipped option. They'll cost about $20 USD. Inexpensive glass cutters have steel blades, so a steel file works as an approximate replacement. If you don't have a steel file, you can purchase one at a hardware store for under $10 USD. The file doesn't need to be large, but should have relatively sharp, angled edges to cut the glass. To cut glass with steel, you'll position the sharp edge (or pointed tip) of the file against the mirror, then scrape it back and forth until you've lightly scored the glass. Be aware that using a rough steel edge (like a file) to cut glass may result in an imprecise cut and a sloppy break. A carbide scribe will produce a sharper, more clean and accurate cut.
A:
Pick a carbide scribe for a sharp, precise cut. Select a diamond-tipped scribe for a longer-lasting tool. Use an ordinary steel file for a cheap option.