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Place your Developer and Blix containers in a sink or a bathtub with water that is 102 degrees Fahrenheit or 38.8 degrees Celsius. Use your thermometer to monitor the temperature of the water. Place your development tank in clean tap water that is 102 degrees Fahrenheit or 38.8 degrees Celsius, and pour same temperature water into the tank (without opening it) to pre-soak your film before developer. With your agitator, agitate the tank for one minute while it is soaking. After one minute dump the water out. It is OK if the water is colored. Make sure any excess water is removed from the tank. Use a thermometer to ensure that your Developer is 102 degrees Fahrenheit or 38.8 degrees Celsius. With a stopwatch in hand, pour the Developer into the tank until it is level with the opening at the lid. Start the stopwatch as soon as you've poured all the Developer into the tank. Agitate the tank for 15 seconds. Do this by swirling the tank around. Flip the tank gently 4 times every 30 seconds. Tap the tank gently on the edge of the sink to pop any bubbles that have formed inside from flipping it. Repeat this every 30 seconds for 3 minutes exactly. At 3:25, start pouring the Developer back into its original chemical container or jug using the funnel. Your developing time will be 3 minutes. Do not neglect to agitate the developing tank. The developing chemicals become exhausted very shortly after coming in contact with the film. The agitation ensures that fresh chemicals are touching the film. Ensure with your thermometer that the Blixer is at the right temperature. Pour the Blix mix into the tank until it is level with the opening at the lid, and start your timer. Agitate for 15 seconds then cover. Flip the tank four times, but you do not need to tap it this time! Flip the tank 4 times every 30 seconds for 6 minutes. At 6:25, pour the Blix back into its original chemical container or gallon jug using the funnel. You will need to wash the film after you pour out the Blix. Fill the tank with tap water that is 95 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit or 35 to 40.5 degrees Celsius. Agitate it again for a couple seconds and leave it soaking for 3 minutes. Fill up your tank with the Stabilizer until it is level with the opening at the lid. Agitate for 15 seconds, and leave it for 1 minute. After one minute, pour the Stabilizer back into its container using the funnel. If you like, you can do a quick rinse after the Stabilizer. Pour water into the tank, shake it gently, and pour the water back out. This is to ensure that excess chemicals have been removed form the tank.

summary: Soak your Developer and Blix containers in warm water. Pre-soak your development tank. Pour your Developer into the development tank. Pour your Blixer into the tank. Pour your Stabilizer into the tank.

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One round of bleeding the slave cylinder is complete when your friend lifts their foot off of the clutch pedal. With the bleed valve closed and your friend's foot off of the pedal, open the brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder and add brake fluid to it to ensure it doesn't run dry as you go. Bleeding the slave cylinder with an empty reservoir will suck air into the system again. Check the reservoir regularly to ensure it does not run out of fluid. As your friend presses on the clutch pedal, look at the clear hose so you can see any debris or air bubbles that drain with the fluid. Air bubbles may look like bubbles, or they may look like gaps in the fluid as it passes through the hose. When there are no air bubbles for a few round of bleeding, you are finished. Air bubbles in the system can lead to your clutch system only delivering intermittent pressure. Intermittent pressure in the clutch system can cause the clutch to fail to disengage. Do as many rounds of bleeding the clutch as necessary for the bubbles to stop coming out of the hose. If bubbles continue to appear no matter how much you bleed the system, there may be a leak somewhere in the lines or at the master cylinder. Once the bubbles stop coming you can seal the bleed screw and place the cap back on the reservoir. If there is a leak somewhere in the system, you will need to seek a professional to identify and repair it.

summary: Add more brake fluid between each round of bleeding. Look for air bubbles in the hose as it drains. Repeat the process as needed.

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Since the bulb of the lily would be difficult to plant in cold, hard soil, wait until after the last frost date before transferring it outdoors. Consult local nurseries or the Old Farmer's Almanac to find out the last frost date for your area. Take a shovel or trowel and dig a 6 in (15 cm) deep hole for each Easter lily you want to plant. The deep hole will give the plant space to develop its root system. If there are any wilting or dead flowers left on the Easter lily, pluck or trim them off. Place the plant into the hole. Avoid cutting off the stem and leaves of the lily until fall. Spread well-draining soil around the sides of the lily to fill in the hole. Mound soil around the stem of the plant and press down firmly to remove any pockets of air. Water the lily immediately after you plant it and water it thoroughly every day for at least 1 week. After a week, you can begin watering the plant every few days until the root system is established. Check the soil around the lily if your region is going through a dry period. Water the plant to keep the soil moist.
summary: Keep the Easter lily inside until the danger of frost has passed. Dig a 6 in (15 cm) deep hole. Cut off the old flowers and put the bulb into the hole. Fill in the hole around the plant with soil. Water the plant every day.