Summarize the following:
Before you make any decisions regarding the method you'll use to stretch your ears, consider how much you want to stretch them. If you're only moving up a size, the most pain-free option would be gently pulling your ears until they stretched out enough to accommodate new earrings. If you're looking to stretch your ears considerably, however, explore other options. Tapering is the most common method to stretch out your ears. If done correctly, this method is relatively painless. Tapers are sets of rods that gradually increase in diameter. To stretch your ears, you would get a set of tapers, push the taper all the way through the hole, and replace it with a gauge the same size as the end of the taper. By the time you complete the set, your ears should be stretched as large as you want. Never wear tapers as jewelry. This will make your ears heal unevenly because of uneven weight distribution. Some people use spiral gauges as tapers, they can be work for long periods of time and allow for longer stretching periods If you want to stretch your ears slowly, consider taping. This allows you to gradually stretch your ears, which can reduce pain, but in smaller increments than you would use with tapers. To tape, use non-adhesive tape. Wrap this tape around the parts of your earrings entering your ear. Increase by one or two layers at a time until you've stretched your ears to your desired diameter. Wash your earrings after taping to prevent infection. You should not wear silicone plugs until your ears are fully stretched and healed. If used when stretching, silicone can tear the lining of the ears and potentially cause infection. Double flared jewelry as flares are sometimes large enough to cause pain and possible permanent damage to your ear.

summary: Tug gently on your ears. Consider tapers. Try taping for gradual adjustments. Avoid silicone and double flared jewelry.

Summarize the following:
It's possible your betta will contract a disease or infection at some point in his life span, so be prepared by having medications on hand to treat your Betta quickly and efficiently. Medications can be stressful for your betta and should only be used when you have confirmed your betta has a specific disease or infection and medication is necessary to treat the issue. You can find medicine for fish at your local pet store. Your first aid kit should contain the following medications: BettaZing or Bettamax: These medications are anti-parasitic, anti-fungal, and anti-protozoan. They are useful for a number of issues, such as fungus and velvet parasites. You can also use this medication as a preventative measure if you are trying to get a Betta used to a new environment or every time you introduce a new Betta to your tank. Kanamycin: This antibiotic can be found at many fish stores and pet stores. It can used for serious bacterial infections. Tetracycline: This antibiotic is used to treat less serious bacterial infections like fungus. Ampicillin: This is a useful antibiotic for treating popeye and other infections. You can find this antibiotic in specialty fish stores and online. Jungle Fungus Eliminator: This is an anti-fungal treatment that works on several fungus infections and is useful to keep on hand as a Betta fish owner. Maracin 1 and Maracin 2: These medications come in hard tablet form and can be used to treat mild infections like fin and tail rot. However, the are not as effective as other medications to treat more serious infections. This will help to remove any waste buildup and any decaying organic matter from excess food and dead leaves or roots from plants. Doing a small partial water change weekly will also clean any toxins from the water and keep the water clean. Do not remove any of the aquarium plants or decorations from the tank or bowl. Removing or cleaning these items can kill the good bacteria that has been filtering through your tank and reduce the quality of your filtration system. As well, you do not need to remove your fish from the tank or bowl when you do a partial water change. This can stress out your fish and could expose him to harmful bacteria. You can use a siphon to suck up any gunk in the gravel and decorations. You should also use an algae scraper to remove algae on the surface of the tank or the tank ornaments before you remove any of the water. If your tank does not have a filter, start with clean water and test daily for ammonia. When the kit says there is ammonia, it's time for a water change. Getting a top cover for the bowl or a filter can reduce the water changes you will need to do and protect your fish from getting an infection or a disease. Check the water once a day to ensure it is not cloudy, foamy, or has an unusual odor. These could all be signs of a bacterial bloom and may require you to do multiple 50% water changes. Doing this will prevent your Betta from developing any diseases or infections. Bacterial infections like fin and tail rot can be prevented by keeping up with weekly water changes. Unlike table salt, aquarium salt does not contain any additives like iodine or calcium silicate. (Don't use table salt!) Do not use aquarium salt or copper-based medicines if your tank also includes aquatic snails or corydoras, as they can not handle these medicines and may die. Nerite snails are salt-tolerant, however they will not be able to handle copper, so proceed carefully. Always follow the instructions on the package for dosage amounts. Keep in mind that aquarium salt is not for long term use. It's only for baths.
summary: Create a betta first aid kit. Do a 15-50% water change once a week, to keep your betta from being stressed. Add tiny amounts of aquarium salt to remove any bacterial infections.