In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Space your eyelets/grommets roughly 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart along both sides of the back of your corset, near the edge. As you reach the waist, space four pairs of eyelets more closely together by about 1/4 inch (1/2 cm). You can buy these at a local craft or sewing store. Grommets are the holes in the back of your corset in which you lace up your corset. Use a fabric punch, leather punch, or awl to punch the holes out for your eyelets. Hammer the eyelets in place from both sides with a rubber hammer. Start at the top and lace the corset down to the waist using a crisscross pattern. Work from the bottom up in the same manner, again stopping at the waist. Tie your laces together at the waist in "bunny ear" or "tennis shoe" style. You need about 5 yards (5m) (4.5 m) of lacing total. Ribbon and twill are the most historically accurate forms of lacing, but flat lacing and cable cord hold up better in the long-term. The top of the corset should begin just above the nipple area, and the bottom should extend over your hips without riding up. Cinch the waist of the corset in by pulling the loops at the waist.
Summary: Insert your grommets. Lace the corset. Put the corset on.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Wire plate hangers come in different sizes, so you need to know the size of the plate before you can purchase the hangers. Use a ruler or tape measure to determine the vertical length of your plate. If you have a simple circular plate, you only need to know the diameter. Similarly, if you have a perfectly square plate, you only need to know the length of one side. If you have a plate with uneven sides, like an oval or a rectangle, first determine which side will be the vertical side when you hang it. Measure the length of that side and choose your hangers based on that. You should be able to buy a standard wire plate hanger at most hardware stores and craft stores. Look for the size that best fits the dimensions of your plate. Usually, the different size ranges are: 5 to 7 inches (13 to 18 cm) 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) 10 to 14 inches (25 to 35 cm), holding up to 30 lbs (13.6 kg) 14 to 20 inches (35 to 51 cm) There should be two wired ends attached by a long spring. The single wire piece with the pointed center should be hooked over the front top of the plate from the back, and the two-wire end should be hooked over the front bottom of the plate from the back. Note that the spring connecting both ends should be hidden behind the plate. Due to the placement of the spring, the plate will stick out from the wall a bit. Take that into consideration when using these hangers. These hangers work best with plates that are fairly normal in shape and size. If you have to distort the springs too much to make the wires fit, the plate will be unstable and more likely to fall off the wall. Decide where you want the plate to be on the wall and mark the spot with a pencil. Hammer a nail into that spot. At least half of the nail should be inside the wall, but you should also make sure that there is plenty of nail space for the hanger to rest on. To determine where you want the plate, hold it up against the wall and move it around until you find the right spot. Lightly mark the top of the plate with a pencil. Set the plate down, then measure the distance between the top of the plate and the pointed top of the hook. Make another mark on the wall the same distance away from your original mark. The nail should be hammered into this second mark. Carefully hang the pointed end of the top hanger onto the nail on your wall. This should complete the process. Check the plate after you hang it. If it is not evenly aligned, you may need to readjust the positioning of your hangers on the plate. If the plate does not seem secure, change the position of the hanger or nail until it does. Alternatively, try a different hanging method.
Summary: Measure the plate. Buy a wire hanger. Attach the hanger to the plate. Hammer a nail into the wall. Hang the plate.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Browse freelance marketplaces, such as UpWork or PeoplePerHour, to find potential graphic designers taking on book work. Create a list of favorites based on their relevant experience, listed availability, and the scope of your project. Determine if you want help formatting and adding design elements to your book's interior or just creating the cover. Most marketplaces ask freelancers to list an hourly rate. Take this number into account as you budget for your design project. If you have questions that come up about your project while you browse profiles, write those down to discuss with the designers later. Write your shortlist of potential candidates a personal message confirming their availability and describing the scope of assistance you are seeking. Based on this information, ask each designer to send you a portfolio of relevant past work that you can consider in making a hiring decision. You might say, "I'm hiring a designer to create a cover for my self-published romantic novel aimed at older women. Do you have any past cover work you might be able to show me in this vein? It will help me decide if we are a good fit." Some designers may self-select out of the hiring process if they feel they aren't a good fit for your project or are too busy. If someone you really like isn't available, you can always ask, "Do you have a trusted fellow designer who might be interested in a project like this?" Ask each of the designers if they might participate in a short test to demonstrate their design skills for compensation. You can get a feel for their work and communication style firsthand. Ask the designers to do a test other than a mock up of your cover. The goal is not to get your project out of the test for a lesser fee but to determine the skill level of the various candidates. Give the designers a set of creative and formatting guidelines to follow for the test. For example, you could ask them to design a bookmark of specific dimensions that reflects the mood of your book. Allow them some room for creativity! Narrow your field down to 2 or 3 potential designers. Coordinate to interview each either over the phone or on a video call. This is a great opportunity to ask questions about their portfolio, further describe your project to gauge their interest, and discuss the budget. Important questions to ask include: "How do you incorporate client feedback into your designs?" and "How do you see our collaboration working over the design process?" Ask how long a project of this scope will take them and how many rounds of feedback are included in their design fee, if there is a limit. Take note of your rapport with each designer. You're apt to have a better working relationship with someone you get along with and can communicate with easily. Hire the designer you feel the best about based on their skills, experience, availability, and price. Include any relevant observations from your trips to the bookstore. Email your designer a copy of your manuscript to read, as well. This background information will help them execute a design that resonates with the tone of your book and the design aesthetic that appeals to you. If you're concerned about providing a copy of your unpublished book to the designer, ask them to sign a nondisclosure agreement. If it's within the scope of the design project, ask your designer to double-check the formatting of your book's interior to make sure it is print-ready.
Summary:
View graphic designer profiles on freelance marketplaces. Ask for copies of past work or a portfolio. Pay the finalists to perform a small, skills-based design test. Interview multiple designers to make your final selection. Discuss your design objectives and project goals with your designer.