Problem: Article: The type of rope you work with does not matter, but since you will be handling it a lot, it might be a good idea to work with something soft so that your fingers don't feel sore by the end. Macrame or 100% rope would work best, however. You will be changing your floss often, so it does not matter how long it is. You can make it as long or as short as you want, so long as you can work without it getting tangled. Something around 24 inches (60.96) would be ideal, however. You can use the same color of embroidery floss throughout the project, or you can use different colors to create a more interesting looking basket. Take your rope, and fold the end under itself. Twist the rope into a spiral until you have a 1-inch (2.54-centimeter) wide disk. This will be the foundation for your basket. Push the needle through the side of your coiled disk, and pull it out the other side. Tug at the thread until the knot bumps up against the disk. Turn the disk 90 degrees, and push the needle back through the disk, forming an X. This will hold the foundation of your basket together. Bring your needle across two coils, then push it down through the space between them. Pull the needle out through the back of your work, and bring it back up to the top of your disk. Bring your needle across one coil. Bring it just past the gap between the two coils, and push it through the edge of the second coil. Pull the needle out through the back of your disk, and bring it back to the top of your work. Work in a spiral around the disk. The stitches can be as close together or as far apart as you want them to be. Something around to -inch (0.64 to 1.27-centimeter) would be ideal, however. When you run out of floss, push the needle under the stitch, through a coil, and knot the floss to the previous stitch. Pass the needle and floss through a few stitches, then cut the floss. To start a new thread: thread your needle and tie a knot at the end of the floss. Pass it through the same stitches, but going forward this time. When you are back where you left off, continue sewing, the same as before. Previously, you held the rope against the side edge of the disk. Now, move the rope so that it is on the top edge of the disk. Wrap the thread around both coils: the top one that you are feeding onto your basket, and the one attached to the disk. Do this for one row. Add an element of design to your basket by wrapping the floss around the rope a few times to create a colored band. These bands can be as thick as you want them to be. Be sure to go back and sew the coils together as you normally would, however. Wrap your thread over two coils, then over one coil and through the coil just beneath it. If you need to, place a large bowl inside the basket while you build up the walls. This will help you shape the basket. Find the spot where you first started building up the wall of your basket. Continue sewing your basket until you reach that spot, then cut the rope. Wrap the embroidery thread around the end of the rope tightly until you have a colored band that is about to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 centimeters) thick. This will not only add an element of design to your basket, but it will also keep the rope from fraying. Sew the end of the rope to the basket using the same technique as you did for the body of the basket. Wrap your floss around the top of your rope, and then push the needle under the coil just beneath it. Go back over the top of your rope, then through the coil below it. Tie the floss to the stitch next to it, then push the needle between two coils of rope, hiding the floss between them. Cut the floss, and tuck the end into the ropes.
Summary: Choose your rope. Thread some embroidery floss onto a sharp tapestry needle and tie a knot in the end. Roll the rope into a small, coin-sized disk. Pass the needle and thread through the center of the disk to form an X. Make your first stitch starting at the top of your disk. Make your second stitch. Keep repeating your first and second stitches until your basket is the width you want it to be. Start building up the sides. Continue building the sides of your basket using the two stitches from before. Cut and bind off your rope. Finish the basket.

Problem: Article: This is always the first step when loading or handling any gun. Consult your weapon's instruction manual to locate the safety feature. Common shotgun sizes are 10, 12, 16, 20, .410 bore, and 28. Shotshell of one gauge may be fired in a shotgun of another gauge, but doing so requires a special tube. Otherwise it is best to just select the proper sized ammo for your weapon. You can also secure the stock under your arm with the gun turned sideways. Make sure that the trigger and trigger guard are positioned on the side of the shotgun facing away from you. The "business end" of the shell should be pointing toward the end of the gun barrel. The business end is the end of the shell that the shot comes out of and is opposite the metal capped end of the shell where the explosive charge is housed. When it clicks, the rim of the shell should have passed the magazine catch. You can tell the tube is full when you attempt to load a shell but it won't go in. This will strip a shell from the magazine and load it into firing position. The shotgun is now ready to fire.
Summary: Make sure the safety is on, the chamber unloaded, and the barrel pointed away from you in a safe direction. Determine what gauge (bore diameter) your shotgun is so you can select the right size shells. Place the butt of the stock on your left thigh while sitting. Place a single shell against the loading flap just ahead of the trigger guard. Using your thumb, push the shell straight up into the loading flap until you hear and feel a distinct click. Repeat until the magazine tube is full. Hold in the action release button and pump the slide backwards and then forwards with a reasonable amount of force to load the chamber.

Problem: Article: If you have any of the early signs of frostbite, go inside and start getting warm. Take off wet clothes and change into dry ones or use a warm blanket to warm up. Have a warm drink like tea, hot chocolate or just warm water to start bringing your body temperature back up. The affected area will be susceptible to further damage if you go outside. Don't risk it just because you want to get back to skiing or hiking. Fill a bowl or pot with warm water and completely submerge the affected area. Do not use hot water, as it will heat the skin too quickly and damage the tissue. Soak the area for 30 to 40 minutes. The person with frostbite may not be able to sense the temperature accurately. As the tissue begins to warm, it's common to feel severe pain. Handling the tissue roughly could result in a lot of damage. Warm water should be the only warming mechanism you use to restore the body part to the correct temperature. Avoid doing the following: Frostnip may be treatable at home without need for further assistance, but anything beyond that could cause long-term damage. If you experience these symptoms, it's important to get medical attention:
Summary:
Get to a warm place immediately. Don't attempt to go back outside after warming up. If you can't find a warm place or are too far away from the closest heated building, seek shelter out of the wind and call for help. Immerse the affected area in warm water. Have someone not affected by frostbite test the water to make sure it's warm, but not hot. After about 30 or 40 minutes, full sensation should be regained, and the color should begin returning to normal. Don't warm the area using other methods. Don't rub the skin, either with your hands or with a towel. Don't use dry heat, since the numb skin will easily burn Call for medical assistance or see a doctor to assess the injuries. Blistering Loss of sensation Pale or discolored skin Discharge from the affected area Fever, confusion or dizziness