Q: Remember that mildew starts to grow wherever moisture is present. Be aware that damp dirty clothing can start to stink up before it ever makes it to the washer, even if it didn't smell bad when you first stripped it off. Use wet clothes as an excuse to start a load as soon as you take them off. If this isn't possible, don't ball up your wet clothes and dump them in the hamper. Let them air-dry on a hanger, drying rack, or clothesline before adding them to your other dirty laundry. If you forgot all about your last load sitting in the washer, wash it a second time to get rid of any funky smells that may have developed in the meantime. Use the highest temperature possible that's still safe for your fabrics. Instead of detergent, however, choose between adding color-safe bleach or chlorine to kill the mildew and eliminate that smell. Or, if you want to avoid chemical products, use plain white vinegar instead. These all smell pretty strong in their own right, so you may need to wash your clothes a third time with laundry detergent to get rid of any residual smells. If you're really prone to forgetting about that last load in your washer, take preemptive action. Add several drops of lavender essential oil to your load when pouring in the detergent at the start of your cycle. Use this mold-resistant product to protect your clothes from developing mildew for longer. This can stall mildew from growing for at least a couple of days. If the washer itself is the smelly culprit, fill the drum with hot water. Add 2 cups of white vinegar. Let the water sit for 30 minutes or so. Then start a regular wash cycle without adding any laundry. Give it a test sniff once it's done and repeat if necessary. Remember that mildew loves moisture and darkness. So don't shut your washer's lid or door once you empty it. Either leave it open all the time for more air circulation and light, or give it at least the length of your dryer's cycle to air out before you close it. If the washer tends to stink up on its own pretty frequently, reduce the amount of liquid detergent and fabric softener that you use. Keep in mind that these are thicker than water and don't always dissolve all the way during a wash cycle. This means that residue is left inside your machine, which can be a breeding ground for mildew. Remember that many detergents are concentrated, so you only need a little bit. If you experience buildup in your machine, check the detergent's directions for recommended amounts.
A: Wash wet clothes right away. Rewash clean clothes left in the washer. Prevent mildew with lavender essential oil. Deodorize your machine. Air your washer out after each use. Cut back on the detergent if needed.

Article: Use a slightly larger (by 2mm or so) drill bit than your bolts; this gives us a margin of error in case we position them slightly wrong later on. This will take rather a long time.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Drill these holes out.

Q: Urea is best applied on a cool day, in weather between 32 to 60 F (0-15.6 C), and with little to no wind. At colder temperatures, the ground is frozen, making it difficult to incorporate the urea into the soil. At higher temperatures, and in windy conditions, the urea is broken down faster than it can soak into the soil. Urease is the enzyme that begins the chemical reaction that turns urea into the nitrates plants need. Applying urea fertilizers before planting leads to high amounts of the urea being lost before it can benefit your plants. Using a fertilizer with a urease inhibitor can slow the chemical reaction, and helps retain urea in the soil. Urea is packaged and sold as small, solid pellets or granules. Broadcast the urea with a fertilizer spreader or sprinkle the pellets by hand evenly across your soil. For most plants, you will want to keep the urea close to the plant's roots, or close to where you will plant the seeds. Before urea is turned into the nitrates your plants need, it first becomes ammonia gas. Because gases can easily escape from the surface of the soil, applying fertilizer when the ground is wet will help to incorporate the urea into the soil before the chemical reaction begins. This way, more of the ammonia is trapped within the soil. The top half inch (1.3 cm) of soil should be wet to keep as much ammonia gas in the soil as possible. You can water the soil yourself, apply the urea before it rains, or apply within 48 hours after the snow on your fields has completely melted. Tilling your fields or garden is a great way to incorporate the urea fertilizer into the soil before any of the ammonia gas can be lost. Harrow, drag, or hoe the field in order to incorporate the urea into the top layer of the soil. Certain varieties of potatoes can handle high levels of nitrogen, while others cannot. Be cautious and treat all potatoes the same way. Avoid giving potato plants large quantities of nitrogen with your urea fertilizer. Urea fertilizers can be applied directly onto potato plants, or in a solution with other fertilizers, as long as the solution is made up of 30% nitrogen or less. Solutions of urea fertilizer that are more than 30% nitrogen should only be applied to fields before potatoes are planted. Urea can be applied directly onto most cereal grains, but never in temperatures above 60 F (15.6 C). When applied in warmer temperatures, the plants will give off an odor of ammonia. Only apply urea to corn indirectly, by spreading the urea onto soil at least 2 inches (5 cm) away from the corn seeds. Direct exposure to urea is toxic to the seeds, and greatly reduces the corn plant's yield.
A:
Minimize ammonia loss by applying urea on a cool day. Use a urea fertilizer with a urease inhibitor before planting. Spread the urea evenly across the soil. Wet the soil. Till the soil to incorporate the urea. Control the amount of nitrogen you give to potato plants. Fertilize grains with urea on a mild day. Apply urea to corn seeds indirectly.