In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Each post should be 3 feet (0.91m) away from each otherstart by marking the first post location with chalk at one end of the wall. Now, move in 3 foot (0.91m) increments along the line until you reach the end. Use a taut string and stakes or a snapped chalk line to help you create a straight line. If you need to extend your wall with another post to create the final 3 feet (0.91m) then do so. Space your posts 16 to 18 inches (41 to 46cm) apart for load-bearing walls, which are walls that support something aside from their own weight such as a roof. Start by using a D-handle shovel to loosen the dirt along each side of the trench. Once it's loose enough, dig out the middle with a trench shovel. Continue loosening and digging into the soil with each of your shovels. Call your local utility services number at least 3 to 4 days before digging to ensure it's legal and won't damage underground structures, such as power, sewer, water, or gas lines. Consider renting heavy equipment to dig your trench. Saw through large roots with a reciprocating saw or using the tip of your trench shovel. Use a steel bar to loosen rocks. for your posts. Thrust your shovel into the soil and jiggle it forward and backward and side to side. Once the soil is loosened, start digging down into the ground. Grip the middle of the shovel's handle with your non-dominant hand and the top of the handle with your dominant hand. Use a steel bar to knock rocks loose. Remove large sections of loose soil with a clamshell digger. Saw through large roots by thrusting your shovel down into them or using a reciprocating saw.
Summary: Mark your post hole locations on the ground with chalk. Dig a 12 inch (30cm) deep trench between your post locations. Dig 18 inch (46cm) deep holes

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Cut lines through the ivy along the ground in order to divide it into large sections. This will make it much easier to remove the ivy from the ground. Pull the sections apart from one another as you cut. Work carefully around plants and saplings you want to keep. If you're working on a hill, cut vertical lines from the top of the hill to the bottom to create sections that you can roll downhill. Lift the edge of one section of ivy and roll it forward on top of itself. Keep rolling the ivy forward until the entire section has been rolled up into a big log of ivy. Move the log to a separate area and continue rolling up sections until you've cleared the area. Mulching the ivy rolls is the best way to dispose of them and ensure they won't take root in the area again. English ivy is difficult to kill with herbicides alone because the plant's leaves contain a waxy barrier that is difficult for products to penetrate. Therefore, the most effective method is to combine manual removal with the use of a herbicide. Glyphosate is the chemical that works most effectively to kill English ivy. Spray the area of ivy you wish to kill, but be careful the glyphosate doesn't reach other plants you want to keep. Herbicides are slow-acting, and must be reapplied every six weeks or so. If you have a patch of ivy you want to preserve, but you'd like to prevent it from spreading, you can use mulch to keep it contained. Simply cover the border of the ivy you want to keep with several inches (about 7 to 8 inches) of shredded or wood chip mulch. You will need to give this method some time; leave the mulch on the ivy for at least 2 seasons. You may need to add new mulch one or more times during a growing season. Another option is to trim the ivy back to contain it. Use a weed eater or edging tool to cut the vines along the border.
Summary: Cut the ivy into sections. Roll the sections off the ground. Use herbicides as an alternative. Use mulch to contain ivy you want to keep.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: To build the balance beam you will need six 8 foot (2.44 m) pieces of 1-by-6 pine beams, four 12-inch (61 cm) pieces of 2-by-4 wood planks and four 24-inch (30.5 cm) pieces of 2-by-4 wood planks. You will also need to purchase everything listed below in "Things You'll Need". These items can all be found at your local hardware supplier or stores such as Home Depot and Lowes. Use soap, water and a washcloth, sponge or coarse brush to scrub the wood pieces thoroughly. This is very important as dirt and grime can prevent the wood glue from working as effectively. Let the wood sit for a while until it is completely dry before adding the glue. Place the pine beams vertically next to one another as that is how they will need to be administered. Glue the largest sides (the flat sides with the most surface area) of the wooden beams together with an industrial-strength wood glue (preferably waterproof). Use a very generous amount of glue in this process as that is what keeps the wood beams together. Make sure they dry before the next step! When finished the fronts and backs of the beams should be completely flush, creating 1 large beam measuring 8-feet (2.44 m) long and around 4.5-inches (10.2 cm) wide. The 4.5-inch (10.2 cm) surface will be the top of your homemade beam. The best solution for securing the beams together is to use wood clamps. If you don't have clamps, lay the beams flat on their widest part and apply a heavy weight to help fuse the boards. Allow the beams to dry for at least 24 hours. When the glue has dried, remove the clamps or the weights, and sand the entire surface of the beam. Use a sanding plane or sand belt to ensure the surface is uniform and even. Screw the angle holders (the angle holders will come with screws) to the underside ends of your balance beam approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the end of each side.
Summary:
Purchase the required lumber from your local hardware supplier. Wash the entire surface area of each wood piece. Glue the six 8 feet (2.4m) wood pieces together. Secure the beams together while the glue dries. Sand the wood. Mount steel galvanized angle holders to the beam.