with an electric tuner. Find an electric tuner for cello at a music supply store. You can attach the tuner to the bridge of the instrument or you can download a tuning app on your cell phone. Bow each string consistently and with the same pressure one at a time and follow the instruction on the tuner to check that the string is in tune. Sitting behind your cello in the proper position, the last string on the right is "C." It's your thickest cello string. Pluck the string with your right pointer finger (both left handed and right handed people cluck the cello the same way). Make sure your thumb is positioned at the end of the fingerboard to provide stability. Never pluck far up the fingerboard! The note is "open" because you are not pressing down with your left fingers on the string to play it. The string itself is in the note of "C." The cello "bridge" is the piece that sticks up about halfway down the cello and holds the stings in place. The fingerboard is the long black-colored piece that runs down the front of the cello's neck, and is where you put your fingers to play other notes. The second string from your right is called the "G" string. It is the second-thickest string on the cello. Pluck this string with your pointer finger on your right hand, and rest your thumb on the side of the fingerboard. Plucking the string is called pizzicato The third-thickest string, located next to the "G" string, is the "D" string. Pluck the string to see what "D" sounds like. The last string on the left, and the thinnest string, is your "A" string. Pluck the "A" string to see how it sounds. A good way to remember the string notes on your cello is the sentence "Cats Go Down Alleys" starting from your right with the thickest "C" string.

Summary: Tune your cello Try an open "C" on the thickest string on the right end. Play an open "G" on the second string from your right. Try an open "D" on the third string in from your right. Play an open "A" on the thinnest string on the left end.

Spray water on the moss, peat, or other material you've placed at the base of your tank whenever it starts to dry out. Keep this material moist at all times. If you can't spray every other day at least, you could leave an ice cube in the tank, or a rag or sponge soaked with water. The snails may stay healthier if you spray them with water every day or two, but pay attention to water temperature. Spray with warm water in cold weather, and use room temperature water during hot weather or if you have central heating. Most snails are not picky eaters, and will enjoy most types of fresh fruit and vegetable. Wash all food thoroughly in clean water before you give it to them, and cut large vegetables into chunks or slices. Some foods, such as carrots and potatoes, may need to be boiled for a few minutes to soften them slightly. Always let cooked food cool completely before giving it to your snails. Some snails may eat raw meat, raw eggs, brown bread, or (soaked, but uncooked) oatmeal. Experiment to give your snails a varied diet to increase the chance that they are receiving all the nutrition they need. Not much research has been done on the best nutritious diet for snails, and there is disagreement among snail owners about which foods may or may not harm the snails. Here are a list of food ranging from the most to least dangerous: Salty foods could kill your snails. Avoid anything with salt crystals on it entirely. Avoid pasta, rice, and millet. These starchy foods can potentially cause blockage in the snail's digestive system. Do not feed them to your snails. Homegrown plants may be exposed to car exhaust while growing, which could cause harm. Acidic foods such as citrus fruit, tomatoes, and kiwi fruit may or may not harm snails. Use them in small quantities along with other foods. You can use any source of calcium as long as it is clean and washed. Egg shells or discarded snail shells in your garden will work for the average pet owner. If you are trying to breed snails you may wish to buy more concentrated calcium sources from a pet store, such as cuttlefish bones or pure calcium supplements. Have a source of calcium available in the tank at all times. Replace it whenever it runs out, but use calcium supplements with greater than 20% calcium sparingly. Clean a snail with a toothbrush whenever their shells get dirty. Do not use soap and brush gently to avoid damaging the shell. Pour a few drops of water onto the shell to help remove stuck-on soil. Pick up the snails gently by coaxing your finger underneath their head, then place them on a towel in a temporary container. Remove the old soil to discard in the garden. Use a wet, slightly soapy sponge to scrub the walls and base of the tank to get rid of snail slime marks and scum. Rinse the tank carefully to make sure every trace of soap is gone, as it could harm the snails. Don't leave the snails untended if the container is small. Do not shut the snails in a container without air. When replacing the soil and other materials in the clean tank, follow all of the steps described under Making a Snail Home

Summary: Keep the tank moist with a spray bottle. Lightly spray the snails with water. Feed your snails clean food daily. Learn which foods might harm your snails. Give them a material they can use to build their shells. Keep your snails clean. Clean their tank every month or whenever it gets dirty.

These handheld tools allow you to reach right against the edge of the wall. If using an orbital sander, you probably already reached the walls. In this case, you can skip this section, and remove the finish at the corners with any handheld sander. For this small remaining area, you may be able to skip some of the steps you used on the whole floor. That said, you will need to start with a coarse grit to remove the old finish. Move the edge sander back and forth along the wall in small triangular movements. This is less likely to leave marks than a side-to-side motion. Most tools are designed so moving right (clockwise) along the wall is easier than the other direction. You can now skip straight to 80-grit sandpaper. Sand carefully until the edge matches the rest of the floor. If you want to finish with 100-grit sandpaper, you'll need special techniques to avoid burning the floor and paper. You'll need a sander with a slow speed setting, and preferably an "open coat" sandpaper. Your floor is now ready to be stained and/or waxed. Try to keep dirt, abrasives, and heavy objects off the floor until it is finished.
Summary: Use an edge sander. Start with 36-grit. Sand in a clockwise zigzag pattern. Repeat with finer sandpaper. Vacuum up the dust.