Article: Microneedling is not a cheap procedure and is not covered under insurance. You will need to undergo multiple sessions, along with buying products to help post-treatment. Some places charge per facial zone. For example, you may be charged $100 per facial zone. Other places may charge based on the area, for example $90 for one scar, or $150 for eyes. A few places provide deals where you get a free zone if you purchase multiple zones. Some places will give discounts if you do combined packages, such as face and neck, or face, neck, and hands. Other places charge $100-$300 per treatment, depending on the area. Neck CIT can from $150 to $250. Before you get the treatment, schedule a consultation to discuss what areas you would like and the overall price for the entire procedure, including follow up visits and any post-care products. Before you undergo CIT, you should discuss it with your dermatologist or other medical professional. Determine why you want this procedure and if the procedure will yield the results you want. Discussing the treatment with a practitioner can help determine you are suitable for treatment. This discussion also allows you to ask any questions to make sure you are knowledgeable about the procedure. CIT is available through spas or at-home treatments, but these can cause scarring and damage. You should always get CIT at places with medical professionals since the procedure breaks your skin. The inexpensive rollers or needle devices used at spas or sold for at-home treatment can have needles with poor quality. They are also shorter than ones used by professionals, so they can be less effective. CIT should be done so that the needles are inserted into your skin at a 90 degree angle. This reduces the risk of scarring and trauma. Inexpensive devices are not generally angled properly or can get bent, which may cause scarring. Many places will take a before photo prior to your first treatment. Then, after a month or more, they will take an after photograph. These photographs are used to show a comparison of your skin pre and post treatment.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Know the costs of the procedure. Discuss the procedure with a dermatologist or practitioner. Visit a certified specialist or facility. Prepare to provide before and after photographs.
Article: Polyfill stuffing is available at all craft supply stores. The upper half of the sock will become the torso and head. The amount of stuffing is up to you. How firm do you want your monkey? If the sock is thin, you may want to err on the side of under stuffing, as overstuffing it may cause it to stretch. If your sock opening is the same color as the body of the sock, just make a nice rounded head and stitch it shut. If it is a contrasting color, you will need to decide if you want to cut it off (making a shorter body for the monkey) and make the head as usual or use the excess coloring as a "hat" by not stuffing the last inch or two and cinching the opening into a cone shape. To make the head: Stitch around the neck with quarter inch stitches. Use sturdy thread such as embroidery floss. Pull the stitches snugly until you get the size neck you want and knot the ends. Round out the head area with stuffing as desired and stitch the top opening shut. Gather the tip with large stitches and snug/cinch them closed. Fold the raw edges to the center and tuck inside. Then, stitch the opening closed. Winter ready!
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Turn the sock right-side out and stuff the entire thing. Sew the head and/or hat. If you are making a hat, start working with the cuff.
Article: It is important to secure your work with a vise or other clamp to keep it from moving around while you are filing. Mount the vise so that the stationary jaw extends slightly beyond the edge of your workbench, and be sure to place bolts in all the holes on the base of the vise and secure them with locking washers. Then, place the workpiece in the vise so that it is supported by the full clamping surface. You don't want to use a back and forth motion with your file, as this will damage the file and likely your workpiece as well. Instead, only apply pressure on the forward stroke and lift the file away from the workpiece on the return stroke. For heavy cross filing, grab the handle of the file with the dominant hand and place the palm of the other hand on the end of the file. Angle the file diagonally to the work and press down firmly so that the file digs in and cuts the metal. Make long, slow strokes away from your body. Lift the file away from the surface on the return stroke to prevent dulling the file. For straight filing, use a small file rather than a large one. Grab the handle of the file with the dominant hand and place the fingers of the other hand on the end of the file. Point the file away from you and press it down firmly on your workpiece. Make long, slow strokes away from your body, and only file in one direction, rather than back and forth. For draw filing, place your hands on either side of the file with a gap slightly larger than your workpiece. Hold the file horizontally and make long, slow strokes away from your body with a firm pressure. Remember to only apply pressure on the forward stroke, and to remove the file on the backward stroke.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Secure your work. File in only one direction. Cross file to remove material. Straight file for detail work. Draw file to finish a surface.