INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Many years ago, most workplaces were made with wood floors, which have some cushioning even though they may seem pretty hard to walk on. However, in modern times, most businesses tend to have floors made from concrete, ceramic tile or marble, which have essentially no cushioning, shock absorbency or insulative properties. Consequently, stand in an area that's covered in more springy material such as wood. If that's not possible, then change positions just for the exercise, which will promote blood circulation and may ease the tension in your feet and leg muscles. Concrete and ceramic tile will easily transfer cold to your feet which is not good for blood circulation, so stand in warmer areas without cool drafts. If you work outside, find some grass to stand on while plying your trade or waiting for the next task. Anti-fatigue mats are designed to decrease the stress on your feet and legs by providing a cushioned surface to stand on over prolonged periods of time. These mats are typically made of thick rubber, but some are also made of foam, leather, vinyl or even wood. In many cases, your employer will readily supply you with an anti-fatigue mat if you ask because they are proven to reduce the incidence of feet and lower leg problems. Thick anti-fatigue mats can be a minor hazard at the workplace if people trip over them, so always be aware of where your mat and those of your co-workers are located. Take a look around your workplace and see if there's any carpet you can stand on and still be able to do your job properly. Carpet (even the thin, cheap stuff) provides much more cushion than concrete and will help your feet and legs survive the long shifts at work. If there is no installed carpet at your workplace, ask your boss if you can bring a piece from home. Some businesses that sell carpet will give you a decent sized sample (big enough to stand on) for free. Make sure the underneath side of the carpet doesn't slide too readily on the floor, or else you're at high risk to slip and fall.

SUMMARY: Stand in a different spot. Stand on an anti-fatigue mat. Stand carpeting.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: There are a few wax options for making candles, and beeswax, soy, and paraffin are among the most popular. Beeswax candles are a natural air purifier, but the wax has a high melting point and must be mixed half and half with an oil, such as palm, to lower the melting point. Soy is a great vegetable wax option for candles and is readily available online or at craft stores. Paraffin wax is a traditional choice for candles, but paraffin is a petroleum product and can contribute to poor air quality. Another option is using leftover wax from other candles. Store the wax from candles you burn until you have enough to make a new candle. Two cups (227.5grams) of wax will yield an eight-ounce candle. Along with your wax, you will also need a wick, jar, double boiler, and a clean, dry towel. For a scented or colored candle, you'll also need dye and fragrance. Be sure to buy lead-free wicks. If your wick isn't attached to a metal base (called a tab or sustainer), be sure to purchase one separately. For the jar, you can use a recycled candle jar, mason jar, cleaned out glass jar from the kitchen (like a salsa jar), or even an old metal tin. You'll also need something to stir the wax and secure the wick tab in place, such as a spoon, chopstick, or skewer. You can also use a clothespin or pencil to secure the wick in place while the candle sets. For scented candles, you can either use your favorite essential oils or fragrance oil. For colored candles, you can purchase dye chips, blocks, or liquid. Scents and dyes can be found at most craft stores or candle suppliers. Fill the bottom of the double boiler with about an inch (2.5 cm) of water. Place the top portion of the double boiler in position and put in your wax. Heat it over medium heat. If your wax came in a large block, cut it into smaller chunks before melting it. Always use the double boiler method to melt wax, and never try to melt the wax faster at a higher temperature. Wax has a low flash point and can catch fire. If you don't have a double boiler, you can place a large, heat-safe glass bowl on top of a metal saucepan and use it as the top portion of the double boiler. Dip the base of the wick into the wax, pull it out, and then position the wick base in the bottom center of your candle jar. Use a spoon handle, chopstick, or skewer to press it down until the wax dries, holding the wick in place. Lay a clothespin, chopstick, pencil, or skewer across the rim of the candle jar. If you're using a clothespin, simply clamp the wick into place so it is straight and centered. If you're using a chopstick, wrap the excess wick around the chopstick to keep it in place, straight, and centered. Pour the wax into the jar, making sure you don't pour wax all over the top of the wick. Fill the jar, leaving about one-quarter inch of space between the top of the wax and rim of the jar (this may not be necessary if you don't have that much wax). Wrap the jar with the clean towel. This will prevent the wax from cooling too quickly, and prevent the candle from shrinking and cracking. Let the candle set for about 24 hours. This will give the wax time to fully dry, and give the dye and fragrance time to bind with the wax. Once your candle has cured, remove the towel, remove the clothespin, and trim the excess wick to one-half inch.

SUMMARY:
Choose a wax. Gather your supplies. Melt the wax. Secure the wick in place in the jar. Pour the candle. Let the candle cure.