Make sure the pencil eraser has never been used before. Place the eraser on the scuff mark on your shoe and gently rub it back and forth until the scuff is gone. If your leather shoes are black, use a black felt-tip marker. If your leather shoes are brown or another color, find a felt-tip marker that matches. Place the tip of the marker on the scratch and carefully color it in so you don't get marker on the rest of your shoe. Dip the end of a cotton swab in petroleum jelly. Gently rub the petroleum jelly into the scuff on your shoe until it fades away. Dip the corner of a wet rag into a bowl of white vinegar. Rub the soaked rag onto the salt stains on your shoes until they're gone.
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One-sentence summary -- Use a pencil eraser to remove scuffs on your suede shoes. Fill in small scratches on your leather shoes with a felt-tip marker. Remove scuffs on your patent-leather shoes with petroleum jelly. Use white vinegar to remove salt stains on your leather shoes.

. Most goat species grow horns, and if allowed to grow, these horns have the potential to seriously injure other animals or humans. Anytime after the young goat is two weeks old, have the horn stubs removed, or "disbudded." This can be painful for the goat, and difficult without proper assistance. The assistance of an experienced goat farmer or veterinarian is recommended, especially one who knows how to administer anesthetization before starting the procedure. If the skin on their forehead is easily moved around by rubbing, the goats are probably naturally hornless and do not require disbudding. Even if you are breeding goats, you typically only need one buck per 2550 does. Young, male goats that you do not intend to breed should be castrated at two weeks old or later, but only if they are healthy. Have a veterinarian administer a preventative tetanus shot before you perform the castration. Male goats grow large testicles, so even a castrated goat (wether) may not look as though it has been castrated. If you wish your does to produce milk or kids, you will need to breed them with a buck once the doe has reached breeding age. When a doe goes into estrus (heat), remove it from the herd and introduce it to a buck, rather than the other way around. Two to four breedings is usually enough to ensure pregnancy. A normal gestation period is around 150 days, but this can vary by species. . Does can be milked while they are pregnant, once the udder is enlarged. Milk one or two times a day until roughly two months before the due date for the birth. This pause ensures the mother has enough nutrients to feed the newborn goat. Resume milking again once the newborn kid is six weeks old. You do not need to breed the doe again until its milk production drops significantly. Know who you can consult if one of your goats develops a health problem or escapes its enclosure. If no goat farmers or livestock veterinarians live nearby, try to find a book on goat farming that covers topics such as performing a health check and identifying signs of disease. Whether you are selling meat, fiber, dairy products, or goat kids, you'll need to find a market to purchase them. For a small operation, it may be easiest to sell to individuals in your community or become a vendor at a farmer's market. If you have more products than you can sell this way, you can ship products through online orders or sell them to a commercial vendor who takes care of delivery for you. Consider opening up your farm to visitors, and charging people to visit and pet friendly goats.
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One-sentence summary -- Remove the horn stubs of young goats Castrate most young males. Breed your does. Milk goats daily Find experts to consult in case of serious problems. Find out where to sell your product.

Reading the green means trying to figure out what your ball will do as it travels along the green toward the hole. Start your read by crouching 3 feet behind the ball. Look at the surface of the green, seeing where it dips and rises. If you are facing a putt that is going to go downhill, it can be helpful to read the green by looking "up" towards your ball. Looking down the green can make the hole appear farther away than it is, which will lead to you striking the ball too hard. Stand behind the hole and look towards your ball to get a sense of the downslope. While you want your reading to examine as much of the putting line as possible, you want to pay special attention to the last part of the putt. When you first strike the ball, the break of the green matters less because your ball is moving fastest. As it slows down, the slope will have a greater influence. One way to get a closer look at this part of the green is to stand between your ball and the hole so you can get closer to the area you want to examine. When you look over the green, try to find a flat line in the background to judge the green's slope. This can be anything you see on the course, including eaves and windows on the clubhouse, benches, or bodies of water. This horizontal line will give you a reference point when tracking the break of the green, especially left to right. If you can't find a natural horizon in the distance, use the brim of your cap or visor. Even more effective can be curling your hands around your face, fingers above your eyebrows, which will help block out your peripheral vision. When you start visualizing the break on the green, imagine how you see the ball rolling into the hole. Consider the hole as a clock face, with "12" being the back of the cup and "6" at the front. As you start to address the ball, turn your body so that your putt will aim in that direction. The way edge that the ball will roll into is dependent on a variety of factors, particularly the lay of the green. Use the sloping of the green to inform your prediction of how the ball should fall into cup.
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One-sentence summary -- Stand behind the ball. Look up the green. Focus on the area closest to the hole. Find a horizon. Focus on the edge of the cup.

Baby guppies are especially vulnerable to illnesses caused by bacteria or aggression from other fish. Don't leave sick fish in your tank, as others may become ill, as well. You can either attempt to nurse the sick fry in a separate tank or dispose of them, as they're unlikely to thrive. If you notice the following symptoms, remove the affected fry from the tank: Bent or warped spine Sores Tail rot Fin rot You can find medications to help treat common illnesses in guppies. However, these medications aren't appropriate for fry, unless you are very knowledgeable about dosing fish. It's better to remove ill fish from the tank rather than risking the health of the other fish. You can try to treat the sick fish in a separate tank. However, they're unlikely to thrive if they've become ill at such a vulnerable stage. Most baby guppies will be too big to eat at this point. Make sure they're bigger than the mouth of your adult fish before you put them in the aquarium. Otherwise, the bigger fish may still eat them. Your fish will continue to grow until they reach 6 months old, which is considered adulthood. You may notice some growth after your fish is an adult, but it will be minimal. Female guppies usually start to reproduce at 2 to 3 months of age. Additionally, they can store sperm for up to 3 months. If you don't want more babies, you'll need to separate your male and female fry once they reach about 6 to 8 weeks old. You'll be able to determine the sex of your baby guppies when they're about 1 month old. Male guppies will have a long, rod-like fin on their underbelly, which is called a gonopodium. Females will have a dark spot called a gravid spot on their underbelly.
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One-sentence summary --
Remove fry that show signs of deformity and illness. Avoid medicating your tank, as you risk harming the fry. Place your baby guppies into your regular aquarium at 6-8 weeks old. Separate males and females if you don't want more babies.