Write an article based on this "Purchase adequate PVC piping for each irrigation zone. Measure the pressure of your water supply with a water gauge. Mark the locations for your pipe ditches and heads on your yard. Dig the ditches along the main and branch lines marked on the diagram. Set your PVC piping out in the ditches you just dug. Install risers to connect the branch water lines to each sprinkler head. Connect the main water line to the timer and control valves. Attach a backflow preventer to the water supply line. Install the timer unit near an accessible power source. Turn the control valve on that supplies water to 1 zone. Install your sprinkler heads at the ends of the installed risers. Set up the control valve and backflow preventer in the next zone."
article: To supply each zone of the area you're watering, you will need 1in (2.5cm) main line pipe and 34in (1.9cm) branch line pipe. Refer to your to-scale diagram and measure the distance of main and branch pipe you'll need. Then visit a local hardware store or home improvement store and purchase the amount of pipe you'll need. If you're planning to only attach 1 sprinkler head to each branch line, you could get away with using 12 inch (1.3cm) pipe. Find an outdoor water nozzle, and screw the pressure gauge onto it. Turn the water on full blast and read the psi (pounds per square inch) or kPa (kilopascals) indicator on the face of the water gauge. Most home-sprinkler systems need a water pressure of about 30 pounds per square inch (210kPa) in order to function. Purchase a water gauge at any hardware store or home improvement store. Refer to the to-scale drawing to see where you've drawn in the main and branch lines, then head out to your backyard and use a shovel to mark the physical locations where you'll dig to install the water pipes. Then, when you come to the end of the branch lines, flag the sprinkler-head locations using survey flags. Because you're using PVC pipe, you don't need to dig the ditch in a perfectly straight line, as this material will bend fairly easily. Measure all distances with a tape measure to ensure that all of the distances are precise. Use an axe or grubbing hoe to cut the turf, taking care to set it aside in clumps so it can be replaced when you are finished. The ditch should be at least 10 inches (25.4cm) deep to protect the pipes from damage even in warm climates. If you live in a region that gets frosts during the winter, dig the ditches at least 6 inches (15.2cm) below the frost level for your area. A trenching shovel may be the best tool to use for this part of the job. Dig carefully so as to avoid your home water lines, exterior lighting circuits, and waste and sewer lines. First, place the main PVC line pipe in place so it's ready to attach to your outdoor water nozzle. Then, set the smaller PVC pipes in place for the branch water lines. Also set into the place the tees, elbows, and bushings for reducing pipe sizes and threading on the sprinkler heads. Depending on the setup you're using, you may also install funny pipe at this point. "Funny pipe" is a flexible butyl rubber pipe used in sprinkler systems, which has its own unique fittings that slip into the pipes without glue or clamps, and adaptors to thread it into the PVC branch lines and the sprinkler heads. Funny pipe also allows the heads to be adjusted for height and is forgiving if you are prone to driving over the head with a riding lawn mower or vehicle. Find the flagging that you stuck into the ground earlier to mark the locations of your sprinkler heads. The risers will connect your water line to these sprinkler heads. Then, attach the risers to the PVC pipe by threading them in place. Before you install the riser, make sure the terminal fitting is the correct thread size for the head. Your sprinkler system will come with several control valves and a timer to control when the heads turn on and off. Use PVC funny pipe and the appropriate fittings to connect the main line to the control manifold. "Manifold" is the commonly-used term that describes several valves that are grouped together. Be sure to use the appropriate valve for the type of control you are using. Connect the water supply line into the manifold (time and control valves). Be sure to also attach a backflow preventer so that if the water system loses pressure you will not syphon water from the sprinkler system into the potable water. If you don't install a backflow preventer, your home's potable water could be contaminated. Attach the timer to the wall near a power supply by your front or back door. Set up the unit by connecting the wires coming from the sprinkler valves to the numbered terminals in the timer unit. Test that the timer unit is properly installed and works correctly by manually testing each of the sprinkler zones from the timer control box. You'll use the timer unit to set and adjust the watering schedule for the sprinkler system. Without a timer unit, your sprinkler system would spray water 24 hours a day. Allow the water pressure to flush the pipes of any debris or dirt which has gotten into them. This should only take 12 minutes, but doing this before installing your sprinkler heads will prevent clogged heads later on. Clogged sprinkler heads can be a major headache to clear. So, clearing the pipes at this point can save you time in the long run. Place the heads according to the locations where you mapped them on the drawn schematic. You can also locate the heads by finding the ends of the risers you installed. Depending on the height of the heads, each should be installed about 6 inches (15cm) deep. Pack the soil firmly around the heads to hold them in position. Bury the heads deeply enough that the soil will support them and they will be slightly recess below the top of the turf at your preferred mowing height. Once you have successfully installed the sprinkler heads on the first zone, move on to the next zone. Working in sequential order will keep you from overlooking any part of sprinkler system or accidentally forgetting to install a sprinkler head. Continue working zone by zone until you've installed the entire system.

Write an article based on this "Gather your ingredients. Add 1 cup of sugar to a bottle through a dry funnel. Measure out 1/4 teaspoon of fresh granular active baker's yeast. Add the yeast through the funnel into the bottle. Grate the ginger root on a fine cutting grater to produce 2 tablespoons of grated root. Place the grated ginger in a measuring cup. Juice a whole lemon. Add the juice of a whole lemon to the grated ginger. Stir the lemon juice and grated ginger to form a slurry, then add it to the bottle. Rinse the container that held the lemon juice and grated ginger with fresh clean water. Cap and shake the bottle. Reopen and fill the bottle to the neck with fresh, cool, clean water. Place the ginger ale in a warm location for 24 to 48 hours. Test to see if carbonation is complete by squeezing the bottle forcefully with your thumb. Once the bottle feels hard to a forceful squeeze, usually after only 24-48 hours, place in the refrigerator."
article:
Here's what you'll need to make ginger ale using the old-fashioned method: 1 cup (225 g) sugar 2 tablespoons (30 g) freshly grated ginger root Juice of one lemon 1/4 teaspoon (1.6 g) fresh granular baker's yeast Cold, pure water Leave the funnel in place until all the steps are complete and you are ready to cap the bottle. Use any brand that you might buy in the health food store. Shake the bottle to disperse the yeast grains into the sugar granules. Use the side of the grater with the finest teeth. Lemon is important to keep the pH level low and ward off unwanted microorganisms. If you don't like lemon, try grapefruit juice instead. It may stick in the funnel. Don't worry, the next steps will wash it into the bottle. Add the rinsing water to the bottle. This helps activate the yeast and gets the carbonation process going. Leave about an inch of head space, then securely screw the cap down to seal. The head space is necessary to leave room for gasses that will be produced during fermentation. Invert the bottle repeatedly to thoroughly dissolve sugar. Check the bottom of the bottle because the sugar tends to stick in little pockets there. The ginger root will not dissolve, of course. The warmth is necessary for the yeast to be able to ferment the brew. But don't forget about it! Too long and the alcohol concentration starts to increase and the taste changes greatly. If it dents in as in the picture, it is not ready; the fermentation produces carbon dioxide (like in sodas and seltzers) that will inflate the bottle and make it difficult to squeeze. Refrigerate at least overnight to thoroughly chill before opening. Crack the lid off the cool ginger ale just a little to release the pressure slowly. You do not want a ginger ale fountain!