This box can be made from plastic, cardboard, metal, wood or any other sturdy material. The box can be plain and simple, or rich and ornate. Poke around at thrift shops, antique stores, and estate sales. Look for boxes at junkyards, dumps, and recycled building centers. Try to use a box with which you feel a special connection. Always be on the lookout. You might notice the box laying on the sidewalk on your way to school, or stuffed into the depths of your garage, or jutting out of a dumpster behind your apartment complex. Consider using a suitcase, or an old lunchbox, or a shoebox. The "box" can be any container that holds your memories. . You can craft a simple box from paper, or you can make a sturdier box out of wood. The box should be large enough to hold all of the "memories" that you want to save. Plan ahead: you'll probably want to put many more things in here! In general, try to build something at least as large as a shoebox or an old-fashioned hatbox. You don't need to lock the box up, but it might make your memories feel a bit more secure. You can build a lock into the box, if you want to get crafty. Otherwise, you can use a combination lock or a simple keyed lock to seal the lid to the rest of the box. Think about what you'll be putting in here, and consider how much you would care if anyone else looked through it.
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One-sentence summary -- Find a box that catches your eye. Make a box Put a lock on the box.

This is a general estimate of the minimum amount of space needed if you plan to let your cattle rely primarily on field roughage (grass) for food all year round. This estimate takes into account the fact that grass production slows in the winter months. More space is even better since it gives you a safety net in the event of any grass problems or drought. If you are working with a small farm space, it simply means that you'll need to provide food supplementation in the form of cattle feed. Talk with your livestock vet about exactly how much grain your herd will require throughout the year, as it will vary by season. You can buy cattle feed at your local feed store or even online via bulk suppliers. Cattle feed is usually a blend of grains, such as barley or wheat. There is no exact formula to figure out how to size paddocks or how to divide cattle into them. Take inventory of the animals that you own and think about natural divisions, such as keeping cows/calves separate from bulls. You'll also want to balance out your herd, so that it will be easier to rotate between paddocks. As a general rule, the smaller your paddocks are, the more often you'll need to rotate your cattle to keep them from depleting the area's resources. Once you know the rough size and number of your paddocks, look at an overhead map of your land. Separate your land into square-shaped paddocks with alleys in between them. When mapping everything out, try to divide up natural water features. Also, consider the location of any watering holes or stations. Ideally, you want your animals to avoid trekking up and down rough or uneven terrain to get to water. Segmenting shaded spaces into separate paddocks can also help minimize grass damage. As cows gather in shaded areas they tend to ruin the surrounding grass, so it's best to isolate this activity to keep your grass healthy. Because there is always a bit of guesswork involved in paddock design, installing temporary polywire or polytape fencing lets you make adjustments as necessary without a major hassle. Use fiberglass or industrial plastic posts and attach the poly fencing in between at the height of a cow's head. Electrifying the fence can provide an added level of security, too. Your alleys should be somewhere between 16 to 20 feet (4.9 to 6.1m) wide. This makes it easier to mow or move machinery in between paddocks. Placing a fine layer of gravel on your alleys will keep them from getting too muddy. Place your gates in the corners and design them with the rotation of animals between paddocks in mind. Make the transition to permanent fencing by using a rail and board or steel post design. If you plan to plant fresh grass in your paddock, do so at least 6 weeks before introducing your cattle. Kentucky bluegrass, alfalfa, orchard grass, and white clover are all good sources of nutrients for cattle. If you place your entire herd into a single paddock, they will eat away at the grasses and ruin the space. Instead, move your herd once or twice a day to different paddock spaces. Round up your cattle, open the connecting gates between paddocks, and drive your cattle into the new paddock space. For example, you'll need to protect paddocks with less productive grasses, such as Kentucky bluegrass. You may need to rotate your cattle out of this space more frequently. Adjust how frequently you rotate your cattle according to the specific season. In the spring and summer, you'll need to move them more frequently to keep up with the grass growth. If extreme weather hits, you need to be able to move your cattle to a paddock with high ground, so that they can ride out the rain or flooding without injuries. Alternatively, you can build a barn or fenced in area with roof coverage for your cattle, but this is a luxury that many cattle owners do not create. If you choose to keep your cattle in a contained area, muck out the manure regularly to avoid the spread of diseases. Check that the flooring of any housing is slip-resistant. This will reduce the possibility of injury to the animals, especially in wet conditions.
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One-sentence summary -- Provide at least 2 acres per animal for year-round pasture grazing. Give your cattle feed if you have less than 2 acres of land per animal. Determine how many paddocks you will need. Design the paddocks according to the contours and resources of your land. Make the paddocks out of temporary fencing initially. Rotate your cattle between the paddocks daily. Ensure that your cattle have access to either high ground or shelter.

Cut 1 inch (2.5cm) off the stems at an angle and change the water every 2 days to keep the spikes and florets looking fresh. Use a sharp blade to slice off each end at an angle about 1 inch (2.5cm) up the stem. It's important to clip them regularly because microbes will grow at the base and block the flow of water up the stem. If you notice the ends are slimy or dark green after snipping the end, cut it again about 1 inch (2.5cm) at a time until you see a fresh base. Cut gladiolus will last anywhere from 6 to 12 days depending on the health of the plant when you cut it and how you take care of it. Plant food is made of sugar, an acid, and bleach; the mixture feeds the plants while keeping bacteria or mold from growing. Every time you change the water and snip the ends, stir some plant food into the water. The feed will give the flower more nutrients and keep it healthy for longer. You can buy cut flower feed at any superstore or grocery store that has a plant nursery. You can also use half a crushed aspirin pill instead of flower feed. Inspect the stalks twice a week and pinch off any wilted or scraggly-looking florets. This will not only improve the look of the flowers but it will allow new, healthier blooms to grow. Wilted florets will appear shriveled and limp or show signs of discoloration (like darkening or browning). Remove each flower as it begins to wiltdon't wait until the seed head begins to form. Take care to remove not just the shriveled petals but also the swollen bit at the base of the dead flower (where it connects onto the main flower stem). This is the bit that forms the seed.
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One-sentence summary --
Change the water and recut the stems by 1 inch (2.5cm) every 2 days. Feed your gladiolus with plant food with each water change. Deadhead your gladiolus twice a week to improve their appearance.