Q: If you're nervous about waxing off your sideburns yourself, you may want to go to a salon or spa to have a professional waxer handle the treatment. You want to make sure to the salon you choose is clean and uses licensed cosmetologists as waxers. Ask friend and family for recommendations when you're looking for a waxing salon. It's the best way to ensure that a salon is professional and reliable. If you don't know anyone who gets waxed professionally, look on Yelp to see reviews of salons and spas in your area to help you make your decision. This procedure uses heat to kill the hair follicle during the first stage of growth. The resulting hair loss is permanent, but because your hair is not all in this first stage of growth at the same time, it may require multiple laser treatments to get rid of your sideburns. In most cases, it takes between 2 and 8 treatments to permanently remove the hair. This procedure only works on people with contrasting hair and skin colors, which means a relatively light-skinned person with dark hair. The follicle won't absorb the heat from the laser if you have dark skin or fair hair. Make sure to do extensive research before choosing a facility for laser hair removal treatment. A laser can cause permanent damage if used incorrectly, so choose a dermatologist or plastic surgeon to perform the procedure, as they have the most training. If a nurse or aesthetician is performing the procedure, make sure a doctor is on-site, overseeing their work. Ask how many machines are on the premises. The more options available, the more likely you will get the most efficient treatment. With electrolysis, a tiny probe is used to kill the hair follicle with a current of electricity. The hair is then tweezed and usually does not grow back. As with lasering, the hair must be at a certain stage of growth for this to work, so multiple visits are necessary. In some cases, it may take up to 20 treatments. Electrolysis will work on any hair color or skin color. It is very important to find an experienced and reputable specialist to perform your electrolysis. Poor work can result in infection, scarring, and discoloration of the skin. Electrolysis, when performed properly, has proven to be a safe and permanent solution for hair removal.
A: Visit a salon for professional waxing. Consult a doctor about laser hair removal. Find a licensed electrologist to remove hair.

Q: Chances are that E6000 or any other industrial strength glue will ruin clothing, either because you won't be able to remove it entirely or because the fabric will be discolored or damaged in removal. Try acetone if you want to keep the item, however. Find an old tooth brush. Then, using an applicator like a cotton swab, dab the glue with acetone. Brush the bonded glue with the tooth brush to begin removing the adhesive. Reapply the solvent and brush several times to erode the glue. Work on both sides of the fabric, if need be. You may not be able to entirely remove the glue. When done, remove the acetone by washing the fabric. Hard surfaces like tables, countertops, and floors can take a more aggressive approach. First, choose the right solvent for your surface. You do not want to damage the surface with too powerful a chemical. Goo Off, for example, contains mainly acetone and will dissolve plastic, laminate, and Formica surfaces. Test a small and inconspicuous area of your surface beforehand to prevent widespread damage. Once you are sure that the solvent will not harm the surface, apply it liberally to the glue. Let the solvent sit for 15 to 30 minutes. Then, begin to abrade the softened glue with whatever mechanical means are at hand. Repeat this process until the glue is gone. You can use a heavy cloth or rag, a wire brush, sandpaper, or a tool like a screwdriver to abrade the glue, depending on the surface. For especially hard surfaces, it may be possible to scrape off the glue with a utility knife or razor blade. Be careful not to cut yourself. Unfortunately, abrasion may scratch or damage the surface while you are removing glue. A hardwood floor may need to be sanded and refinished, for example.
A: Use acetone and an old tooth brush on fabric. Soften glue on hard surfaces. Abrade the surface.

Q: Reduce the amount of ambient light that it might create. Open the box and hold it up to a light source. Use duct tape, electrical tape, or any other kind that is opaque to block out any light creeping in through any cracks or splits. Spray-paint the box black, both inside and out. Measure the inside dimensions of one of the box's smaller ends. Use a ruler and a pen or pencil to trace an outline of these dimensions on a piece of cardboard. Add an extra inch to two sides to create wings. Cut out this outline with a utility blade. Fold the wings back so that you can stand your film holder up inside the box. Spray-paint this cardboard cutout black as well to keep the inside of the box as dark as possible. In the center of one of the box's smaller sides, cut a small square hole, roughly a half-inch by a half-inch (1.27 cm x 1.27 cm). Now cut a slightly larger square from a roll of tin or aluminum foil. Tape this foil square over the hole. Be sure to secure all edges so no light creeps into the box from around the foil. Use a pin, needle, or thumbtack to poke a hole in the foil. Finally, stick a small strip of electrical tape over your aperture to use as a shutter. Tape your foil to the inside of the box so the electrical tape doesn't rip it off the box when you open your shutter. Do this is a dark room. Remove a sheet of photographic paper from its box and tape its edges along the film holder, with the paper's glossy side facing the aperture. Insert the film holder back into the box with the paper facing the aperture. If needed, paper-clip the wings to each side of the box to keep the film holder in place. Replace the shoebox's lid and seal the edges with electrical tape to keep light out. Double-check that the shutter is still in place before leaving the dark room. When putting the film holder back into the shoebox, use the photographic paper's longest side to determine how far away from the aperture it should be placed. For example, a 4x6 sheet of paper should be placed 6" away from the aperture. Set your shoebox on a flat surface well away from anything that might disturb it. Aim the aperture at the object whose image you wish to capture. Lift the shutter and expose the film. Close the shutter over the aperture again after 30 seconds. When you use your camera for the first time, use it in a setting with controlled lighting so you can replicate the shot later. In a dark room, fill one plastic container with developer, fill another with water, and fill a third with fixer. Remove your photographic paper from your camera and place in the first container. Agitate it in the developer for a couple minutes. Once an image begins to emerge, transfer it to water. Once you have rinsed it, place it in the fixer. Let it sit for 5 minutes and then hold under running water for 15 minutes to rinse off the fixer. Learning how long to expose your photographic paper will require some trial and error. Plan on taking a series of test pictures of one object in a controlled setting. Once you have developed your first picture, note how light or dark it is. If the image appears too light (or doesn't appear at all), increase your exposure the next time around. If it appears too dark (or is totally blacked out), decrease your exposure. Note that your developed image will be in negative, meaning that something that is black in real life will appear white, and vice versa.
A:
Make your box as light-proof as possible. Create a film holder. Make an aperture. Load your camera. Take a picture. Develop your film. Assess your image.