Q: Most of the time you will want a base coat, one layer of colored polish, and a topcoat. Sometimes very thin polishes will require a second coat of color before you apply the topcoat, but it is important to avoid using too much. If you are painting your nails a neon color, use a white base coat to make the color pop. You can use a clear polish with glitter as your topcoat for a little extra glitz. Glittery polishes also have the advantage of lasting longer. This is the technique that many professionals use. Done well, it makes the process of applying nail polish efficient and neat. Put a drop of polish at the base of the nail, slightly above the cuticle. Push the drop back a bit with your brush until it is almost touching your cuticle, then pull it in a smooth, straight stroke to the tip of your nail. Move the brush back to where you started, just above your cuticle. In another smooth stroke, swipe it over the curve of the left side of your nail. Repeat the same process on the right side of your nail. Erase any mistakes you make with a small brush (an old lip brush, for example) dipped in nail polish remover. Soak your fingertips in ice water to help your nails dry faster. Let them air dry for a couple minutes, then submerge them in ice water for a couple more. The cold will sting a bit, but your nails will dry much faster, enabling you to apply the next coat sooner. Dry them gently but thoroughly before applying a new coat.
A: Apply the polish in three coats. Use the 3-stroke application technique. Make sure your nails are dry before applying each new coat.

Q: This will loosen any stuck-on debris, which may collect in the small crevices of your menstrual cup. You can then scrub it away. Bacteria can grow on your cup if you don't clean it properly. Make sure you always soak and scrub your cup at least once a cycle, such as before storing your cup for next month. Pay special attention to any grooves, indentions, and rims on your menstrual cup. It's best to scrub the cup under flowing warm water so that any debris washes away. Only use this toothbrush for cleaning your menstrual cup. You can also buy a cleaning brush made specifically for cleaning your menstrual cup. These are available online. Rinse the cup in flowing water, then apply the unscented soap. Rinse the cup well to remove all of the soap. You can also use a cleansing wash made specifically for cleaning your menstrual cup. The entire cup must be covered in water. Make sure your pot is large enough so that the cup doesn't have to rest against the bottom or sides. It's best to place your cup in a metal steaming basket or an egg whisk to keep it from directly contacting the sides of the pot. Although it's unlikely, your cup could melt or warp if it sits against the bottom of the hot pot. Once your water starts boiling, set your time. Monitor the water to make sure it doesn't boil for too long. You can also boil your water in the microwave inside a glass container, but it's much easier to monitor your menstrual cup on the stove. If you decide to use the microwave, start by heating the water for 2 minutes. Then, only heat it for 1-2 minutes at a time until you see bubbles coming up from the bottom. Make sure you don't boil your menstrual cup for longer than recommended. If you boil it too long, the cup could warp or melt. Don't leave the menstrual cup unattended while it's boiling. Use a paper towel or hand towel to dry your cup. Wipe both the inside and the outside to remove any water. As an alternative, you can let your menstrual cup air dry on its side or in a dish rack. It's best to keep your cup in a breathable container, such as a cotton pouch. If you prefer to keep your cup in a hard container, make sure the container isn't airtight. Your menstrual cup most likely came with a storage pouch, so use that one for best results.
A: Soak your menstrual cup in warm water for 2-3 minutes. Scrub your menstrual cup with a soft toothbrush to remove any debris. Cleanse your cup with unscented soap and warm water. Submerge your menstrual cup in a pot of water. Heat the water to boiling over medium-high heat. Set a timer to boil your menstrual cup for 5-10 minutes. Dry your cup with a clean, dry cloth. Store your cup in a clean, dry location until its next use.

Q: You will need 16 15-foot (4.5-meter) ash saplings that are about 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) thick for the frame. You will also need at least 12 ash or basswood saplings that are 15 feet (4.5 meters) tall and 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) thick for the horizontal hoops. The saplings need to be straight as possible. Ash and basswood are the most traditional, but you can use other hardwoods, such as: cedar, chestnut, elm, or hickory. If you are making a model, use thin, bendy twigs instead. You can also use wire instead. Florist's wire coated in brown paper would work well. Start by trimming off any bark and branches. This will help reduce wood rot and help the wigwam last longer. Next, cut the ends of the saplings into points. This will make it easier to insert them into the holes. Make your poles extra-strong by hardening the pointy ends in a fire. This will also help them last longer once you drive them into the soil. If the saplings aren't flexible enough, soak them in a lake or river for at least two days first. Be sure to tie them down so that they don't float away. Gather 50 bushels of cattail leaves. A bushel is a bundle that is thick enough to wrap your arms around. Separate the cattails into 2-inch (5.08-centimeter) thick bundles. Secure each bundle at one end with some string. Set them out in the sun to dry. If you don't have access to cattails, you can use heavy canvas, which was used to cover wigwams from the late 1700s onwards. You will need 12 to 14 sheets that are 5 by 10 feet (1.5 by 3.5 meters). If you want to be more traditional, you can sew cattail leaves into large mats. Plan on using 12 to 14 mats, each 5 by 10 feet (1.5 by 3.5 meters). If you are making a model, you could use pieces of grass, raffia, or straw instead. You can also use pieces of cotton, linen, or canvas fabric. Gather 7 to 10 sheets of birch bark, about 3 feet (cc meter) square. Use a hot nail or wood burner to make holes along the top edge of each birch bark sheet. You can also use elm bark, or weave mats out of cattails. If you are making a model, you can use white paper instead. For a more realistic effect, go over it lightly in a dry brush dipped in brown paint to make the streaks.
A:
Gather some ash and basswood saplings. Prepare the saplings for the frame's poles. Prepare cattail leaves for the thatching. Prepare the birch bark sheets for the covering.