Article: You can transplant the ferns you started from spores or choose fully grown ferns from a nursery or garden supply store. Either way, the process will be the same from this point on. The species you should consider buying will vary based on the region you live in, but if you buy from a local nursery or grow ferns from locally collected spores, you should not have much difficulty figuring out which species can grow in your climate. Within the United States, southern coastal states can usually grow tropical ferns. Southwest states can handle species that can thrive in low humidity. States in the midwest, northeast, mid-atlantic, and upper southern regions usually support woodland varieties. Check on any specific requirements your fern variety needs. Those listed here are only general requirements and do not necessarily cover all of your specific variety's needs. The best time to plant varies by region. For the most part, spring planting is preferable. If you live in a tropical climate or in a region that does not get any winter frosts, fall planting will actually be better. Ferns planted too late in the season could experience root rot, especially if you live in a region with cold winters. The freezing and thawing process can wear away at the roots and gradually break them apart. In warm climates, planting ferns before the summer can result in plants that are stressed by the heat and drought of summer. While each species has its own requirements, in general, you should choose a location that receives plenty of shade. Ideally, you should avoid placing taller ferns in areas of strong wind, but shorter varieties might be able to handle these conditions. If you are concerned, however, you could also place the ferns by a building or other structure to help shield them from some of the winds. You should also avoid planting ferns directly on top of tree roots. Most ferns prefer soil that is free draining and filled with plenty of nutrient-rich organic material. Chop these materials into the intended planting site a day to a week in advance. Most ferns have fine roots, and these roots can struggle in heavy, compact soils. Ideally, your soil needs to be loose and should not get waterlogged easily. Use materials like organic leaf mold, shredded bark chips, organic compost, well-rotted farm manure, or gravel. Do not use fresh manure, however, since the roots of your fern can be sensitive and may die if given too much fertilizer so soon. The hole you dig in the soil should be a little larger than the root ball of the fern. The depth should be the same, but the width should be a little larger. You need to give the fern a generous root ball as you move it. If you use a fern that has already been started in a large pot or container, carefully tip the container onto its side and knock the plant out. Slowly shake the roots out of the bottom of the pot. You should remove excess potting soil used in other containers if that soil differs from that of your garden. These soils might be lighter and may dry out faster, and as a result, the newly planted fern may not get enough moisture after you move it into the soil of your garden unless this old soil has been knocked away first. Firmly pack soil around the edges to keep the fern in place. Water the soil well, and make sure that everything feels secure. Carefully spread out the roots of the fern using your fingers. Mix some of the original potting soil into the root area and water it thoroughly before you place it into the hole you dug. This is especially important if the soil of the original container differs from the soil of your garden.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Choose the fern. Plant in the spring or fall. Choose a good location. Amend the soil. Dig a large hole. Place the root ball into the hole.

Bring your back hand behind your shoulder and just above your hips. If you want more of a back swing, you can bring it back a little further. Steady your bridge hand, relax, and get ready to shoot! You want a smooth, controlled backswing with full follow-through. A steady, square impact carries more force than a lightning-fast shank. To break the rack effectively, hit the head ball directly on target. You'll also need to apply sufficient force to distribute the balls around the table. However, it is best to relax and focus on a square hit, as opposed to trying to apply excessive force. The main thing is to hit the head ball squarely! The force in the break shot comes from the legs and hips. Move your hips forward to achieve greater force. Hit the cue ball with the cue stick. Move your body forward from the hips to apply more power in your break shot. Let your torso move up at the end of the stroke. Your cue stick should be pointing towards the back of the table when you finish. Take a moment after each shot to note the position of the cue ball and the formation on the table. If the cue ball tends to drive forward after impact, hit it lower for more backspin. If it likes to veer off toward the sides, hit it slower for greater accuracy and power. If you are close to sinking the two balls behind the cue ball, think about how you could fine tune your shot to sink them in the corner pockets.
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One-sentence summary --
Pull your cue back slowly with your back hand. Make direct contact with the head ball. Shoot the cue ball. Fine tune your break shot by watching where the balls land.