Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Plan out your design. Purchase a rhinestone trim or a variety of individual rhinestones. Use a rhinestone glue or industrial-strength glue to adhere the gems. Apply individual gemstones in off-set rows. Wrap and glue rhinestone trims around the bottle if you want to save time. Use a variety of rhinestones if you want more texture. Let the bottle dry before adding details or gifting it.

Answer: You can bedazzle the entire bottle or just a small part of it. You can even apply more gemstones in 1 area and fewer in another for a gradient effect. If your bottle has a molded design, such as a tufted diamond pattern, you could apply tiny rhinestones to just the creases. Here are some more design ideas: Create a centerpiece on the bottle with a large, ornate jewel, then add smaller jewels around it. Leave the rest of the bottle blank. Create rings of rhinestones for a striped effect. How much space you leave between the rings is up to you. Glue tiny rhinestones randomly or in a grid-like pattern for a subtle effect. This would look great on frosted glass! A rhinestone trim is a bunch of rhinestones strung on thread; you can find it in the ribbon, lace, and trim section of a fabric store. It is great for bedazzling an entire bottle or outlining labels. Individual rhinestones are better if you need a specific look. The rhinestones don't have to look like crystals. Consider flat-backed pearls or beads! Get a variety pack of rhinestones if you want more texture. Make sure that the pack includes different shapes, sizes, and colors. Use rhinestones that are all the same shape, size, and color for a uniform look. Get a few extra rhinestones that are a little smaller/larger to fill in gaps. You can find both in the glue aisle of a craft store. Apply the glue to the bottle in small patches before adding the rhinestones. If the glue does not have a nozzle, then squeeze out a small amount, and apply it with a toothpick or craft stick. Rhinestone glue, such as Gem Tac, is great for individual rhinestones. It is difficult to peel off. Industrial-strength glue, such as E6000, is better for larger rhinestones. It offers a strong bond, but it can peel off. Apply the first row in a ring around the bottle's bottom edge; this will ensure that everything is straight. Add the second row right above the first row. Place these rhinestones right between the ones from the previous row, like laying down bricks. A pair of tweezers may come in handy here. Switch to smaller rhinestones for narrow areas, such as bottle necks or curves. You may get a gap at the end of a row. Fill this gap in with a rhinestone that's a little smaller or larger, if needed. Apply a thin of glue around the base of the bottle. Press the end of your trim into the glue, then wrap it around the bottle. Apply another line of glue right above the first row, and wrap the trim around the bottle again. Keep going until you get the coverage you want. You can start from the top of the bottle instead, but make sure that your ring is straight. If your bottle has a foil top, finish the trim just below the foil. Use a pearl trim for a more elegant touch. Make sure that the pearls have a flat back; they will be easier to glue on than spherical pearls. Apply the glue to a small patch on the bottle. Lay down the bigger rhinestones first, then fill in the gaps with small and medium-sized ones. Finish each patch before starting on the next. Avoid placing 2 rhinestones of the same color, shape, and size next to each other. You don't have to let the glue dry and cure completely before moving onto the next patch. About 10 to 15 minutes should be enough. The size of the patches doesn't really matter. Plan on working on 5 to 7 rhinestones at a time, however. Use some non-rhinestone gems for even more texture, such as pearls. How long the bottle takes to dry depends on the type of glue you used. Some glues will have a curing time in addition to a drying time, so check the label on your bottle or tube of glue. In most cases, expect to wait 1 to 2 days for the glue to set.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Water regularly. Keep the weeds under control. Fertilize during the second year. Train the branches. Watch out for chestnut blight. Protect the tree against insect pests, as well.

Answer:
During its first month or two, the chestnut tree will need 1 gallon (3.8L) (4 L) of water each week. After the first month or two, you should still make sure that the tree receives 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water each week during the growing season. You do not need to water the tree when it loses its leaves and becomes dormant. Weeds and grasses should be kept at least 2 feet (0.61m) (61 cm) away from new seedlings. For established trees, keep the ground bare all the way out to the ends of the tree's branches. The best way to do this is by applying organic mulch around the tree. Mulch also helps the soil retain moisture. An herbicide can be used to get rid of weeds, as well, but you need to protect the trunk of the tree before you apply an herbicide to the area. You can apply fertilizer to the tree on a yearly basis starting its second year outdoors. Do not fertilize the seedling when you plant it. Doing so will encourage leaf production, but the tree needs to focus its efforts on root production during this time. Use a standard fertilizer containing balanced amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (usually labeled as 10-10-10 fertilizer). During the tree's first two or three years, you should train it to follow a modified central leader form. Pick a sturdy central, upright stem. This will be the tree's central leader. Pinch back, bend down, or cut off any other stems that compete with your chosen leader. Major scaffold limbs growing off your main stem should be spaced 1 foot (0.30m) (30.5 cm) apart along the central leader, growing in a spiral rotation. After the tree establishes itself, trim the limbs so that the lowest still gives you enough room to mow under the tree. When the central leader reaches 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m) high, cut it down so that it is as short as a side branch. This will allow the tree to grow wider instead of higher. Chestnut blight is the only major disease you will need to worry about, but it can present a significant threat. The fungus gathers around the trunk of the tree, fixating mostly on areas that are cracked or wounded. It eventually develops into a large canker. When the canker wraps all the way around the tree, the tree itself will die. You will need to completely remove the tree and plant any future chestnut trees in a different location. Chestnut blight is almost impossible to treat once it infects a tree, even if you use a strong fungicide. Prevention is your best option. Plant blight-resistant chestnut tree varieties and make sure that the roots are never allowed to sit in soggy, overly-wet conditions. There are several different insect pests that may attack your tree, but the biggest problem is usually the chestnut weevil. Adult weevils lay eggs in developing nuts. When the eggs hatch, the larvae consumes the meat inside of the nut. Get rid of the weevils before they become a problem by spraying the tree with an insecticide once nut burs begin to develop. Alternatively, you can lay a sheet beneath the tree and give the branches a sturdy shake. Most of the weevils should fall off. You can then collect them in the sheet and dispose of it. You need to kill the adult weevils before they can lay eggs. There is no way to remove the pests once they find their way into the nuts.