Wash the glass with warm, soapy water, then rinse it off. Dry the glass with a towel. To help the paint stick better, it would be a good idea to wipe the glass down with rubbing alcohol too, although that is not absolutely necessary. Fill the bottle halfway with water, and the rest of the way with white vinegar. Close the bottle, then shake it to combine the solution. Choose a spray bottle that has a mist option; don't use a bottle that squirts water out like a water gun. Pour some of your paint onto a disposable tray or palette. Dip the brush into the paint, then tap it on a paper towel to get the excess off. Pounce or tap the brush against the glass to apply a patchy layer of paint. Hold the vase or jar from the inside so that you don't get your fingers dirty. Work quickly, as acrylic paint only takes a few minutes to dry. Hold the vase or jar from the inside, and spray it with your vinegar solution. Apply a light, even coating; you want the solution to bead on the glass without dripping. Don't wait for the paint to set up like you would with spray paint. The acrylic layer is thin, so it will dry fast. Take a paper towel and crumple it up into a ball. Pat the glass dry with the paper towel; do not rub the towel across the glass. The paper towel will remove some of the paint and leave behind a crinkled texture. Keep applying layers of paint, spraying it, and dabbing it until you get the coverage you want. With each layer, you'll notice the glass becoming more and more opaque. Allow each layer to dry first before doing the next one, however. Consider using gold paint for your second layer. This will help make it look more realistic and antique. Most acrylic craft paint will be dry to the touch within 15 to 20 minutes. If the paint still feels tacky, you might have gotten enamel or all-purpose craft paint. This means that the paint needs to cure for several days. Check the label on your bottle of paint for complete drying instructions.

Summary: Wash and dry a glass vase or jar. Fill a spray bottle with equal parts of water and vinegar. Pat silver acrylic craft paint onto the glass with an old toothbrush. Spray the glass with your vinegar solution before the paint dries. Dab the solution off with a crumpled up paper towel. Repeat the painting, spraying, and dabbing process, if desired. Allow the paint to dry completely.

You can still redeem Xbox Points, so you can purchase Points cards or Gift Cards loaded with a preset amount. Cards are available in a wide range of values in your local currency. Points cards can still be obtained from a variety of retailers as well, though no new ones are being made. Points will be redeemed into their equivalent value in your local currency. Points that are converted to your local currency will expire in one year. Ensure that you are logged into the account that you want to redeem the card for. See this guide for details on logging into Xbox Live. Press Xbox Guide button on your controller, and then select the "Games & Apps" tab. Select the "Redeem Code" button and enter the code from the back of the Gift Card or the code you received via email when purchasing online. If the code is entered correctly, the amount will appear in your Xbox account. You can also redeem the code online at live.xbox.com/en-US/RedeemCode

Summary: Purchase a card. Sign into your Xbox Live account. Open the Guide menu. Redeem the code.

These kits are sold at hardware and home repair stores as well as online. Some just come with the epoxy paint, while others include rollers and sprayers for application. Read over what each kit contains and compare prices to determine the best choice for you. Expect to spend around $80-$100 for a kit with everything included. Before you start the glazing process, unpack your kit and spend some time going over the step-by-step instructions. If you are unclear about the directions, look for a customer service number or helpline that you can call. The instruction booklet will also tell you what kind of safety gear you'll need. Pay close attention to any of the kit's warning labels or notices. For example, it might advise you that certain types of tile, such as laminate, are not good candidates for refinishing. In this case, you may need to replace the tiles or talk with a professional installer. A new finish will probably make any imperfections even more obvious. Remove all caulking with a scraper and then follow up with a caulk remover liquid. If the refinishing glaze that you are using is opaque, don't worry too much about matching the replacement tile's color exactly with the old ones. After all, they will all look the same after the paint coating. Repair small cracks or minor chips by applying a polyester putty to the area and then smoothing it out. This will make the tile waterproof once more and the repairs will be covered up by the refinishing process. Scrape out enough grout and adhesive so the new tiles sit slightly below the existing tile. This makes it less noticeable if you reglaze it. , if desired. If your grout is cracking, falling apart, or extremely moldy, then go ahead and chisel it out before moving forward. Use a flat head screwdriver, small hammer, and utility knife to apply pressure to the caulk beads. They may peel right up or you may need to gradually chip them away with the knife. Always keep your hands away from the knife's path and go slowly. This step can get pretty messy, so keep a vacuum close by to suck up the dust and debris. Use a mix of muriatic acid and water to loosen the grout. Only use the acid if you are working in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask and gloves while handling it. You'll want to replace the grout either before painting or after the epoxy paint has cured. It is really your choice. Grout covered with epoxy paint will be uniform and easier to clean. But, some people like the look of grout lines. Your kit will likely come with specific cleaning instructions. It might ask you to mix together an enclosed powder with water and then scrub it on the tile. If instructions are not provided, clean the tiles with bleach, a powdered cleaner (such as Comet), and a rust and lime remover. After each cleaner application, do a full rinse with water. If you are working with kitchen tiles, use a degreaser cleaner or rubbing alcohol to remove any oily residue. Go over each tile with 400/600 grit sandpaper. Choose the wet/dry type of paper, so that you can move on to sanding directly after cleaning. Move your hand in small circles or back and forth motions and try to cover all tiles evenly. Rinse off the tiles with water when you are finished. Remember that your goal is to remove any surface bumps and imperfections, not to sand it down to its base. Porcelain tiles need to be prepared with an etching liquid or a pumice block so the glaze will adhere to it. Sanding increases the lifespan of your refinishing job by allowing the epoxy paint to more fully adhered to the surface of your tiles. Don't get too discouraged if you can't see clear results from your sanding. Just keep going and rub your hands over the tile's surface to feel the change in texture. Wait at least a day or two for the grout and tiles to fully dry before moving forward. If you apply a refinishing paint to a wet surface, it will not stick as well and may even leave air bubbles behind.
Summary: Choose a refinishing kit. Read all of the kit instructions carefully. Replace any chipped or broken tiles. Remove the grout Clean the tiles thoroughly. Wipe them down with sandpaper. Let the tiles dry.