Q: You need good, consistent airflow to get your fire going, as the charcoal needs oxygen to burn. Make sure to dump any ash, as this takes up space needed for proper airflow, and to leave the vents completely open. Make a small pile of newspaper in the middle of the charcoal grate. You can also use the paper of the charcoal bag too. Paper lights quickly, and the flame from the paper will help the charcoal catch. If you are struggling to light your fires with newspaper alone, soak half the paper in olive, canola, or vegetable oil. The oil will cause the paper to burn slower, which may give the charcoal more time to catch. This DIY solution, though far from perfect, has a lot of proponents as a natural alternative to lighter fluid. Kindling, which is small wood pieces used to start a fire, has a higher flaming point than paper, which will help light the charcoal. Place a handful of kindling on top and around your paper, making a little nest of sorts. The paper will light the kindling, and the kindling and paper together will light the briquets. If the sticks easily snap in your hands, making a loud popping sound, they are dry enough to use. Have a spare handful of kindling nearby as well, in case the fire needs extra fuel. If you don't have any stick around, use extra paper. You may have to keep feeding it into the fire until the briquets catch, however, so have several pieces handy. These are going to start the fire for the rest of your charcoal. Place them near the center and rest them on the sticks. As the paper crumbles below, you want to still have some flames beneath the briquets. While briquets (the small square pieces of charcoal) will burn for longer, hardwood charcoal is easier to catch and burns hotter initially. Use a match or a fire-starter to light several corners of the paper, getting a nice bright fire going. You should notice the kindling starting to catch in the big, leaping flames created by the paper. If the stick haven't quite caught as the paper is dying out, loosely crumple up 1-2 more pieces and places them on the edges, near the sticks. If you see gray or white edges of ash on the briquets and the pieces are smoking, you're in business. This process is slow, but it will eventually start a fire. Keep your lighter fire of kindling and newspaper going until you've got some ash on the outside of the pieces. Once you've got the first few briquets smoking you can start adding more pieces, one after the other. A strong charcoal fire does not look like a wood fire -- if you see white or gray ash developing on the outside of the squares, you should be good to go. You will not likely see, however, large licking flames. Keep adding briquets until you have a large pile in the center of the grill. The inner briquets, for now, will be the only hot ones. You should see smoke coming up from the center of your pile. Depending on the size of your grill, you'll need a different amount of briquets: Small, personal grills can usually get by with 25-30 pieces. Medium size grills, like the most common 22" grill, should have roughly 40 briquets. Large grills may need anywhere from 1-2 bags of charcoal, and will take a long time to get hot using this method. The inside of the pile will be glowing bright red with heat. This means you are ready to cook. Add any more briquets you might want if they fire has gotten small, and then place the charcoal in it's desired location with a pair of long-handled tongs. This can take anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour.
A: Open the bottom vents and clean out the ash. Crumple up 4-5 pieces of newspaper and place them in the center grill. Place small, dry sticks on top of your newspaper. Place 3-4 pieces of charcoal on top of your pile. Ignite the paper from several places. Get the charcoal smoking. Slowly add more pieces of charcoal to the fire you've made. Wait to distribute your coals for cooking until they are mostly covered in white/gray ash.

Q: More eye makeup isn't necessary for daytime (or anytime), but if you do want to wear daytime eye makeup, applying a primer will help it last longer. Apply a cream primer or flesh-colored eyeshadow to your entire eyelid, from the base of the eyelid right to the brow line. Apply a layer of light purple or brown eyeshadow to your eyelid from the inner corner to the center. Add depth to your eye by applying a medium brown eyeshadow to the crease of your eye and the outer bottom corner of the eyelid (not up toward the brow line). Use a clean brush to blend these colors together. Apply a thin line of medium brown eyeshadow to the outer corner of your bottom lash line as well. To add definition to your eyes, apply a thin line of your favourite brown eyeliner to the upper lash line. At the outer corners of your eyes, you can extend the liner out slightly toward your temple to make your eyes look larger. Once your eyeshadow and liner are complete, you can add mascara to the top and bottom lash lines. For daytime makeup, choose a thin brush to apply some eyeshadow to your eyebrows. Use a brush or eyebrow comb to work the color through. Try to find an eyeshadow that matches your natural hair color.
A: Prime your eyelids. Apply eyeshadow. Add some eyeliner. Define your eyebrows. Finished.

Q: Wait until the leaf buds begin to swell, then use a sturdy, sharp blade to ensure a clean cut. Prune by cutting at a 45-degree angle, just above an outer-facing growth bud. Growth buds are small raised or discolored triangular shaped areas on the rose stem. They are where the new stem will grow. Pruning above an outer-facing growth bud encourages the roses to grow outward, rather than inward, which can reduce air circulation and lessen the visual appeal of the bush. Avoid pruning your new rose for the first two years after you have planted it. Your rose bush will only need to be pruned after it has developed old growth or mature stems. If you wish to maintain the same size rose bush each year, trim back about of the plant. If you want it smaller, trim more, and for a larger plant, trim less. Cut this back until you see a healthy white center to the stem. Your aim is to have a plant where growth is well spaced out to encourage the flow and circulation of air. Remove close growing stems and any that cross or are tangled. On older plants you can cut back any old wood growth that no longer produces any new stems.
A:
Prune your rose bush in the early spring. Remove any damaged or diseased growth.