INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Use a piece of wood that's slightly larger than your ideal size. This will allow you to some room for error when you use a knife to shave away excess wood with a knife to shape your sword. To check your wood for rottenness, strike it against a hard surface. If it breaks or cracks, select another piece of wood. Use a pencil to draw the approximate shape of your sword on the 2x4. This shape can be curved, like a traditional katana or scimitar, or straight edged on both sides with an angled or triangular point. When drawing your outline, remember the cross guard of the sword. This is located at the base of the blade, between the blade and handle of the sword. The tip of swords are generally angled or pointed. Be sure to include this in your outline. A 45 angle from the tip to one side of the sword will provide a suitable angled point. Measure the ideal length of your sword on your wood and mark it with a pencil. Use a hand saw to cut free excess length from the wood. Remember to cut along the angle or point you've drawn on the wood for the point. A sharp woodworking knife will work best for this, but any sharp, sturdy knife can be used. Carve away wood to create the blade of your sword. For one-sided blades, the blade should narrow on its "sharp" side, creating a triangular shape. The wood should thicken toward the opposite, non-bladed side. For double sided swords, the shape of the blade will be roughly that of a diamond. The thickest part of this blade will be at the center of the blade, with both "edged" sides thin. A somewhat elliptical (oval) shape will work best for your handle, which should be thinner than the blade. The cross guard should also be thin and form the crossing part of a t-shape between the blade and handle. An oval shape will be more comfortable to hold onto when using your sword than a purely circular one. To make a distinct cross guard, a file will work best. Use your knife to form the general outline at this point. Later, you'll use sandpaper to smooth it, and a file to make it distinct. Hold your sword in your hand. If it feels heavy, continue using your knife to shave away wood from the thickness of the blade and handle. Some wood is heavier than others. Heavier woods may require very thin blades and handles for them to be of comfortable weight. Making the blade and handle of your sword too thin can compromise your sword's sturdiness.

SUMMARY: Choose wood slightly longer than your ideal length. Outline your sword shape on 2x4 planks. Cut the sword to your ideal length. Shave away excess wood to form the blade. Fashion the handle and cross guard. Adjust the weight of your sword as necessary.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Once you've got your clamp latched on, it's time to unpackage your needle. You bought a sterile piercing needle that matches the size of your jewelry right? If not, stop now. Go get the right size. MAKE SURE YOU BUY IT STERILE. If the packaging is damaged, get a new one. This is NOT the place to be lazy. Once you've got your needle out, rub on just a little bit of the A&D ointment. This will make the next step easier. Okay! Now double check to see that both marks are still lined up in the clamp. If they are, then hold the clamp in one hand so that you can clearly see your mark. Now with the other hand, take the needle over and line it up on your mark. You can hold the sides of the needle between your thumb and middle finger and use your index finger on the back of the needle to push through, but hold it whichever way is steadiest and most comfortable for you. Now, take a couple of deep breaths, check to make sure you're lined up correctly and quickly push the needle through the skin till you see it poking through the other side at least a centimeter or two. Make sure you don't push the entire needle out the other side because we will use the needle to guide the jewelry in. Pushing the needle through your skin will hurt! Very beefy dudes cry like babies during this type of piercing. You just have to push all the way through. It's very hard to keep going once you feel that initial pain, but it doesn't get any worse than that first little bit of pain, so you might as well just keep going so that it's all the way through, rather than going to all this trouble and not even having a piercing to show for it. If it hurts, just push through a little harder. It will stop hurting very quickly once you get through to the other side. Great! Now that you've got the needle through, the hard part is over! Now you just have to put the jewelry in. You still have the needle sticking out both sides of the hole, right? I bet it looks pretty cool, but now it's time to put in your jewelry. So, unscrew or remove a ball from one side of your jewelry. Don't lose it! Now take the threaded, ball-less side of your jewelry and line it up inside the back of the hollow needle. It should fit in there just fine. Now you can use the jewelry to push the needle the rest of the way out and the jewelry will follow right into the hole. If you did everything correctly, you should see the threaded end of your jewelry poking out the exit hole of your new piercing. Now just screw that ball on and you're good!! Take the time to clean the area with another alcohol wipe. If you bring it to a piercing shop or a hospital, they will gladly dispose of it for you. If you absolutely cannot get it to one of these places, then put it in a hard plastic container such as a prescription pill bottle and throw it away. Be considerate, this is considered biological waste, and it's not fair to put your garbage collector at risk.
Summary: Get out your needle. Apply ointment. Line up the needle. Pierce the skin. Insert the piercing. Secure your jewelry. Dispose of your needle correctly.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: An eyepiece is not necessary to see objects, but it helps to keep your eye off of the viewing lens. It can also make viewing more comfortable. Use a drill or sharp object (e.g. scissors) to make a hole in the bottom of a film canister. The hole should be in the center of the canister and large enough to slide the smallest tube through. Line the smallest tube up with the hole in the canister. Push the tube so that the top (side with the lens) inch is inside the film canister. If the tube will not fit, make the hole larger until it does. Use glue or liquid cement to keep the eyepiece in place. This will allow you to look through the eyepiece without it moving. Give the glue time to dry.

SUMMARY:
Make a hole in a film canister. Push the lens tube through the hole. Secure the eyepiece.