Article: Most volleyball nets are secured to the ground through floor plates. Locate the holes in each floor plate, insert your Allen wrench, and twist the wrench until you pry the plate loose. You can buy an Allen wrench from most sports supply stores or online. Lift the pole up and insert it into the hole, holding it upright as you do so. As you lower the pole into the ground, it should click into place and stay upright without holding it. Repeat this process with both poles. If the pole does not secure into the ground, the hole may be dirty or blocked. Remove the post and check for obstructions, removing any dust or debris as needed. Twist the volleyball poles at the bottom of the feet to raise or lower its height. If you need to make the poles higher than they can naturally go or your poles don't have adjustable feet, insert volleyball pole spacers at the bottom. The regulated net height for the following volleyball teams are: Co-ed, standing disabled, or men's volleyball: 7 ft 11 inches (2.41 meters). Women's volleyball: 7 ft 4 inches (2.23 meters) Sitting or wheelchair volleyball: 4 ft 11 inches (1.5 meters) Senior volleyball: 7 ft 2 inches (2.1 meters) Children's volleyball: 6 ft 6 inches (1.98 meters) -7 ft 4 inches (2.23 meters) Locate the post hook on the lower half of each volleyball pole. Tie each side of the net rope to the post hook in a knot and thread the rope through the winch leader strap, a strap with a metal connector that hangs on the volleyball pole's side. Grab the winch, the handle jutting out of the pole's side, and turn it until the center of the net reaches the desired height. The center height should be match the regulation requirement for men's, women's, co-ed, or other volleyball groups. If you cannot reach the desired net height, try tightening the winch further or adjusting the pole height again. The volleyball net should have 2 additional net straps: 1 in the middle and 1 on the bottom. Grab the net straps and secure them to the hooks on each pole until the straps are horizontal and parallel to the ground. If you notice any excess rope from the net straps or net rope, loop it over the ropes and tie it in place. This will prevent tripping and injuries caused by the ropes while you play volleyball. Hold the ropes in place with loose knots to make removing the ropes simpler later on. Volleyball antennas mark the out-of-bound lines and help observers call fouls. Position the volleyball antenna over the net's top and secure it in place with a clip or other object, depending on the manufacturer. Although not necessary to play, volleyball antennas can keep the game fair.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Remove the floor plates with an Allen wrench. Place the poles into the ground. Adjust the volleyball poles to the required height. Attach the net rope to both poles. Tighten the winch to secure the net. Attach and tighten the net straps. Tie the ropes off to the end posts. Attach volleyball antennas to the net to spot fouls easier.

Place your Developer and Blix containers in a sink or a bathtub with water that is 102 degrees Fahrenheit or 38.8 degrees Celsius. Use your thermometer to monitor the temperature of the water. Place your development tank in clean tap water that is 102 degrees Fahrenheit or 38.8 degrees Celsius, and pour same temperature water into the tank (without opening it) to pre-soak your film before developer. With your agitator, agitate the tank for one minute while it is soaking. After one minute dump the water out. It is OK if the water is colored. Make sure any excess water is removed from the tank. Use a thermometer to ensure that your Developer is 102 degrees Fahrenheit or 38.8 degrees Celsius. With a stopwatch in hand, pour the Developer into the tank until it is level with the opening at the lid. Start the stopwatch as soon as you've poured all the Developer into the tank. Agitate the tank for 15 seconds. Do this by swirling the tank around. Flip the tank gently 4 times every 30 seconds. Tap the tank gently on the edge of the sink to pop any bubbles that have formed inside from flipping it. Repeat this every 30 seconds for 3 minutes exactly. At 3:25, start pouring the Developer back into its original chemical container or jug using the funnel. Your developing time will be 3 minutes. Do not neglect to agitate the developing tank. The developing chemicals become exhausted very shortly after coming in contact with the film. The agitation ensures that fresh chemicals are touching the film. Ensure with your thermometer that the Blixer is at the right temperature. Pour the Blix mix into the tank until it is level with the opening at the lid, and start your timer. Agitate for 15 seconds then cover. Flip the tank four times, but you do not need to tap it this time! Flip the tank 4 times every 30 seconds for 6 minutes. At 6:25, pour the Blix back into its original chemical container or gallon jug using the funnel. You will need to wash the film after you pour out the Blix. Fill the tank with tap water that is 95 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit or 35 to 40.5 degrees Celsius. Agitate it again for a couple seconds and leave it soaking for 3 minutes. Fill up your tank with the Stabilizer until it is level with the opening at the lid. Agitate for 15 seconds, and leave it for 1 minute. After one minute, pour the Stabilizer back into its container using the funnel. If you like, you can do a quick rinse after the Stabilizer. Pour water into the tank, shake it gently, and pour the water back out. This is to ensure that excess chemicals have been removed form the tank.
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One-sentence summary --
Soak your Developer and Blix containers in warm water. Pre-soak your development tank. Pour your Developer into the development tank. Pour your Blixer into the tank. Pour your Stabilizer into the tank.