Write an article based on this "Anticipate needing more carpeting than your exact measurements. Choose between two methods to estimate extra material. Find each room's square footage. Add up the total square footage(s). Remember extra material. Compare estimates."
article: Before you start tallying up the square footage of each room, keep in mind that you'll want more carpeting than the room's exact square footage. Plan on purchasing extra material. This is needed for: Mending mistakes Creating seams Matching patterns If you're purchasing the same type of carpeting for every room, keep things simple. Plan on adding an extra 10% to the total square footage for all rooms once you figure that out. However, if ordering more than one type, then: Round each measurement (length and width) up to the next half-foot before you start calculating each individual room's square footage. For example, if one room measures 15'6" L x 20'3" W (4.72 x 6.17 m), round up to 16 x 20.5 feet (4.88 x 6.25 m). Then plan on adding an additional 5% of the total square footage once you determine that. First, create a list of all the rooms to be carpeted. Include the dimensions for each one. Then find the square footage of each room by multiplying its length and width. For example: 1) Master Bedroom: 16' L x 20.5' W = 328 square feet; 2) 1st Bedroom: 12' L x 10' W = 120 square feet; 3) 2nd Bedroom: 12' L x 10' W = 120 feet, and so on. Treat each interior space as its own separate line item. For instance: Master Bedroom Closet: 10' L x 3' W = 30 square feet. For odd-shaped rooms with multiple measurements, list each area separately. With an L-shaped living room, for example, enter line items like "LR Area #1" and "LR Area #2." If you're using just one type of carpeting for your whole home, simply add up each individual square footage from your list to find the total. If using more than one type, only add each line item that will use Type 1. Then do the same for each additional type of carpeting that you'll be using. You want a separate total for each specific type of carpeting to be used in order to budget accordingly, in case one type is more expensive than another. However, for quotes regarding labor and installation, you really only need the general total. So if you're using more than one type, add up the total square footage for all types, too. If you didn't round up your measurements before calculating each room's square footage, then multiply your total square footage(s) by 0.1. Add that figure to your total. If you did round up, err on the side of caution. Multiply your total square footages by 0.05 and add that number to the total. For example, if your total square footage is 1600: An extra 10% would bring it up to 1760 square feet (1600 x 0.1 = 160, and 1600 + 160 = 1760). An extra 5%, on the other hand, would bring you up to 1680 (1600 x 0.05 = 80, and 1600 + 80 = 1680). Always do some comparative shopping before settling on a carpet installer. Arrange for at least a couple different companies to visit your home and give you an estimate (minus any stairs). Ask each estimator how much material is needed to do the job. Compare this with your own estimate. Then: If their estimate seems pretty close to your own, ask them for a second estimate that includes any stairs you want carpeted, too. If, however, their initial estimate is way higher than what you came up with on your own, move on to the next company.

Write an article based on this "Prioritize compound movements. Isolate the biceps with accessory work. Get your triceps involved. Strengthen your grip."
article: Get most of your work in the gym done through major compound lifts. These include the bench press, pull ups, rows, dips, etc. Compound movements target multiple muscle groups at once, rather than isolating a single muscle. They also help you become stronger, which will increase the amount of specialized arm training you can perform. A solid training program with compound exercises as its foundation will allow you to build a balanced, functional physique, rather than a merely aesthetic one. A simple way to organize your workouts is the traditional bodybuilding split, in which you train two or three related muscle groups during a given workout (for example, a "push" split would focus on chest and triceps, while a "pull" split would utilize the lats, deltoids and biceps). When it comes time to emphasize the biceps, pick one or two exercises to include at the end of your workouts. Some good choices are EZ bar curls, preacher/concentration curls and cable curls. The biceps are smaller muscles and only have a secondary function in the compound lifts, meaning they'll need to be trained directly more often if you want them to grow. Wait until you've finished your strength-focused compound movements before getting into higher volume accessory exercises. The biceps are stubborn when it comes to increasing their size. They require quite a bit of isolation work with high numbers of sets and repetitions. Following a grueling chest workout, dedicate some time to working your triceps. Lifts like skull crushers, overhead tricep extensions and close-grip pushups are efficient at singling out the triceps muscles, which serve to extend the arms. As a bonus, tricep-specific training will add pounds to your bench press and ratchet up the number of dips you can bang out. The triceps are the single largest muscle group in the upper arm, so developing your triceps goes a long way toward building massive arms. Contraction of the triceps is key to all major pushing movements. What good are sculpted biceps and triceps if your forearms remain the same size? Luckily, it's easy to benefit the lower arm muscles while doing compound exercises that challenge your grip, such as deadlifts, pull ups and farmer's walks. Thick, powerful forearms complete the impressive appearance of a svelte physique. Any exercise that requires you to hold onto heavy weight for a lengthy period of time will be effective at building your forearms.

Write an article based on this "Get a small cooler. Place your ice tray, mold or other freezing container at the bottom of the cooler. Fill your tray or molds with water. Pour water into the bottom of the cooler, filling in around your ice tray or molds. Place the cooler with the lid off in your freezer. Take out your cooler and carefully remove the block of ice with your ice tray or molds frozen in it. Chip away the ice around your tray or molds and remove your ice cubes. Leave them out for a minute to let the top cloudy later melt off."
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Just a regular cooler is fine, like the one you use to keep food and drinks cool for a picnic, but it must be small enough to fit in your freezer. The cooler will insulate your ice cubes, forcing them to freeze slowly from the top down. Do not close the cooler. If you can, use trays that make larger ice cubes, or get a series of small, rectangular plastic or silicone containers. Proponents of this method claim tap water works as well as distilled and boiled water. This water will seal off your ice cubes, keeping cold air from freezing the sides or bottom. Make sure your freezer is not set too cold17-25F (-3 -8C) should do it. Leave the cooler for 24 hours. The ice should have a thin cloudy layer at the top but be clear the rest of the way through. You now have large, solidly crystal ice cubes.