Problem: Article: String algae, which looks like strands of hair floating on the water or clinging to the walls, harms the pond's ecosystem. A scrub brush such as a toilet brush can be used to lift up and remove the algae. Skimming nets from a home improvement store also help reach the algae, but you can also yank out the algae by hand. Some string algae is beneficial to the pond's health. The algae that sticks on the pool liner, as long as its growth is under control, protects fish and combats green water caused by other algae. Try to control the algae using natural maintenance methods such as by adding plants, aerating the water, and removing waste yearly. When your pond is very green, hydrogen peroxide may clear up the algae faster. Add about one pint (.48 L) of store-bought hydrogen peroxide for every 1,000 gallons (3785.4 L) of pond water. Dilute it if possible by letting it run with a fountain, waterfall, or other moving water. Results will vary between ponds, but you can increase the amount of hydrogen peroxide as needed. Be careful though, because it can harm fish and plants. Chemicals such as String Algae Control are less harmful but more expensive options for existing algae problems. Purchase barley straw online or at a garden center. Stuff the straw into a mesh bag, hay net, or fishnet tights. Allow the bag to sit in the pond for several weeks, preferably where the water spreads, such as a fountain or waterfall, if possible. After a few weeks, the barley will start to degrade. Remove any rotting pieces to avoid adding more nutrients for the algae.
Summary: Remove string algae with a brush, net, or your hand. Add hydrogen peroxide for quick water treatment. Add barley straw for a natural treatment.

Problem: Article: Go around the area you want to dry and pick up or relocate any rocks, brush, or other ground cover you find sitting on top of the dirt. Clearing away these materials will improve the site's exposure to air and sunlight, both of which have a natural drying effect on wet soil. It's especially important to do away with absorbent plant matter. Things like dead leaves, old mulch, and decaying plant stalks have a tendency to hold water, which will just keep your soil soggy. If you don't clear your work site first, there's also a risk that you could inadvertently work the debris down into the soil as you turn it, making the problem worse. You can enhance air circulation and access to sunlight even further by cutting back sources of deep shade, such as overgrown shrubs and high branches with thick foliage. Aeration will only help dry out your dirt if it isn't totally saturated. If there's visible puddling or pooling on the surface, you'll either need to give the excess moisture time to disappear on its own or resort to a different, more immediate method, such as adding organic drying amendments or lime. You'll know your soil is ready to aerate once it's firm to the touch. It can still be wet, but it shouldn't be so soft that it loses its shape easily. As mentioned, proper exposure to sunlight and air is key to drying out soggy soil quickly. For this reason, it's best to plan your project for a clear, dry stretch where no further precipitation is expected. A basic step aerator will work best for small yards and isolated patches of dirt. Long-pronged gardening forks, spike rakes, and strap-on aeration shoes are another useful option. Each of these tools is inexpensive, intuitive, and easy to clean and maintain. If you need to cover more ground, it may be worth it to invest in a manual or motorized rotary aeration machine. Start at one end of the site and work your way across to the opposite end. Then, turn and go back in the opposite direction, using the prongs of your tool to churn up a fresh patch of untouched soil. Continue in this way until you've turned the entire area you want to dry. As you work, the prongs of your aerator will open up lots of little holes in the dirt, allowing more air and sunlight to get in. To use a step aerator, place the prongs against the ground at a 90-degree angle and place your full weight on the head of the tool with one foot to plunge it into the dirt. When using a rake or fork, thrust the prongs into the ground like a spear, then rock the long handle back and forth to loosen the soil. If you've opted for a pair of aeration shoes, simply strap them to your feet and walk back and forth across your work site. With this method, you'll get a little exercise as an added bonus! Operating an aerator machine is usually as easy as pushing it across your work surface like a lawn mower, but be sure to consult the manufacturer's instructions to ensure that you're using the tool safely and effectively. As soon as you're finished, collect any lingering debris that your aerator uncovered. Afterwards, make an effort to keep rocks, fallen branches, deteriorating plant matter and other materials picked up while the elements do their thing. As long as the weather stays dry, your soil should be workable within about a week's time. Removing large clumps of loosened dirt can give the soil more room to expand, which in turn will improve its ability to drain more completely.
Summary: Remove large pieces of debris from the surface of the soil. Allow standing water to dry naturally. Choose an aeration tool that's appropriate for the size of your work site. Break up the surface of the soil with your aeration tool. Keep the aerated soil clear for the next few days.

Problem: Article: This squeezing action helps break up uric acid crystals that develop in the feet; breaking up these acid crystals helps increase circulation. Tug just enough for the foot to move towards you an inch or so. Use a gentle but firm motion. Start at the toes and use a slapping motion to tap the sole of the foot all the way down to the heel and back up to the toes again. Slap hard enough so the client can feel it, but that it doesn't sting the skin on your client's foot. If your hands are large enough, you can massage the front and back of your client's lower leg at the same time.
Summary:
Grasp the heel of your client's left foot with your left hand and place your right hand over the top of the foot near the ankle. Gently squeeze the top and bottom of the foot. Place one of your hands over the top of your client's ankle and cup the heel in the palm of your other hand. Gently tug the client's foot and leg toward you. Place your right hand horizontally over the top of your client's foot and place your left hand vertically along the bottom of the foot. Press down on the top of the foot using your right hand, while pressing up against the sole of the foot with your left hand. Release the pressure and then repeat three more times. Use both your hands to squeeze and twist your client's foot using the same motion you would use to wring out a wet rag. Tap the soles of your client's feet with the back of your hand. Massage your client's leg starting at the ankle and continuing up the shin to the knee. Bring your hands back down to the foot by massaging the back of your client's leg starting from the back of his knee, continuing over his calf and back down to his ankle. Work the back of the leg with your fingers and the front of the leg with your thumbs. Apply pressure with your thumbs to the reflex points for the diaphragm on your client's left foot. Wrap the client's left foot in a towel to keep it warm while you repeat the relaxation massage process on his right foot. Begin your regular reflexology treatment session.