Spread the scarf over a flat surface and use a ruler to measure its dimensions. 1 of these sides wraps over the dowel later. If you need to conserve wall space, measure and then hang the scarf's shorter side. To help you choose a side to measure, figure out how much wall space you have available. Select the dowels that are 12in (1.3cm) in diameter, getting 1 for each scarf you wish to hang. Using a handsaw, cut the dowels down to match the length of the side you wish to hang. Dowels are sold at most craft supply stores as well as home improvement stores. For example, if your scarf is 12in (30cm) long, cut the dowel the same length. Turn your iron to the proper heat setting before using it. The settings you use depend on the fabric your scarf is made of. Press out all the wrinkles, taking care not to damage the fabric. You will need a box of upholstery tacks from a craft store. Wrap between 1 to 3in (2.5 to 7.6cm) of the scarf over the dowel. Then, pin the scarf in place on 1 end. Continue placing tacks every 1in (2.5cm) along the dowel. Select a pattern of ribbon that compliments your scarf. Measure out a length of ribbon 3in (7.6cm) longer than the dowel. Cut the ribbon to length with scissors. Twine can be used as a stronger but less colorful option. Both twine and ribbon can be found at craft stores. Lay the ribbon flat next to the dowel. Tack an end to each of the dowel's ends. Next, lift the ribbon up to test it. Make sure the tacks are pressed in tightly so the ribbon doesn't come loose. Select a spot on the wall to hang the scarf. Simply hammer a nail into that spot, then drape the ribbon over the nail. The scarf hangs flat, so its design is always visible. The dowels can also hang from curtain rods or other spots. Scarves can hang from clothing hangers or shower curtain rings without a dowel. Slip the hanger onto a wall-mounted rod, then pull the scarf through the hanger. Pinning isn't required this way.
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One-sentence summary -- Measure the scarf's sides. Saw a craft dowel to length. Iron the scarf flat. Tack the scarf to the dowel. Cut a piece of ribbon slightly longer than the dowel. Tack the ribbon to the dowel. Hang the ribbon on the wall.

Lower resolution devices such as the Android systems do not cause nausea (or are less likely to cause). You might have vision problems but it is unlikely if you get nausea with the same animations or in a large screen (computer or iPad) seen from a reasonable distance. Do you get nausea from 3D movies? A few people do. Even people who do not get nausea from 3D movies might get nausea from the apple high resolution screens + animations. The problem is that the apple icons are unrealistically sharp giving the impression of being 'floating' by the glass. Nothing in real life looks that sharp. The headache might be the result of the brain subconsciously trying to understand what is the physical reality of those icons. Decreasing the brightness might reduce the discomfort because it makes the icons and text to seem less realistic. Installing a protecting film that reduces the sharpness of the screen also makes the images on the screen less 'paradoxical' to the brain. Nausea might come from the fact that your brain thinks the images on the screen comes from real objects (3-dimensional). The images are so sharp that deceives the brain of some people into thinking it is a real object. However when the eyes try to focus to see the moving images in different planes, the light is coming from the same plane (screen). The eyes keep refocusing trying to predict the movement of the objects on the screen and this inconsistency cause the discomfort. Please try looking to the screen with one eye to see if the discomfort decreases (hard to tell because it is so subtle). In any case, if this is the problem, it is solved by looking at the screen at arms length. At arm's length the discrepancy between the images seen by each eye for a 3D object is much less and closes to the 'no difference' observed in the apple flat screen. For some people it means days; for others it might mean weeks or more. For some people the eyes still see what is going on around when looking at the small screen. The less information outside of the screen, the less strain to the brain. This tip is equivalent to the previous one. Black seems to work better on the home screen because it masks the 'shadowing' effect of the icons, decreasing the 3D illusion. This trick does not help for all the other screens (safari, settings, email, etc).
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One-sentence summary -- Look away from the screen when the icon animation is running (when you press the 'home' button). Look away, or look at a corner of the device when scrolling email and the like. Know why you are uncomfortable. Let your eyes and brain live with the paradox until they get use to it. If you use a device with contrast control, decrease the contrast of the display and the experience will be more pleasant; unfortunately the iPhone has no such an option. Try to use the apple device when facing a wall or other neutral, low information content image. Avoid using the device when walking. Change the color of the 'home screen' to all white or all black, according to what works best to you.

Turning the light off ensures that there is no chance of getting shocked when you change the light bulb. Make sure that anyone in the same room also knows not to turn the light back on while you are working on it. If you are taking out an incandescent or halogen bulb, you will need to wait 5-10 minutes after turning the light off for the bulb to be cool enough to handle. An LED bulb, on the other hand, will always be cool enough to handle. Depending on the type of track lighting you have, it may be necessary to take the light off the track before removing the light bulb. In general, if you can simply unscrew the light bulb out of the front of the fixture, then you don't need to take it down. If you need to take a cover or piece off of the fixture to get at the light bulb, it's probably easier to take it off the track before changing the bulb. If you have the instructions that came with the track lighting system, consult it for information. You can also research the fixture online if it is particularly difficult to figure out. To take a fixture off of a track-lighting system, you typically need to rotate the base of the light. Loosen any set screws, pins, or locking rings that keep it in place on the track and then turn the fixture counter-clockwise 90 degrees. The whole thing should pop out of place and come out into your hand. Traditional incandescent, CFL, and LED bulbs are removed by unscrewing them counter-clockwise. However, track lighting often has specialty bulbs that are unscrewed, unplugged, or twisted and locked into place. Inspect the bulb before trying to take it out to see if you can identify how it is removed. Move it side to side and pull it towards you gently, watching to see if any movement occurs. With one of these motions, the bulb should begin to move. You may need to take a cover off of the bulb to access it. If you can't see the surface of the bulb, explore the fixture to figure out how to get to it. Covers are usually kept in place with a small set screw or clip. If it is not self-explanatory how the bulb is disengaged, consult the installation instructions that came with the fixture.
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One-sentence summary --
Turn the light off. Determine if you need to disengage the fixture to get the bulb out. Remove the bulb from the light socket.