Adults often develop a loose tooth due to grinding their teeth or gum disease. In some cases, the tooth can be knocked loose due to trauma to the mouth. If you have a loose adult tooth or you suspect the tooth is infected, see your dentist for treatment. A tooth is likely infected if it is sore or painful to the touch. The gum area around the tooth may also be painful, swollen, or red. If you notice your child has a loose tooth that appears infected, bring them to the dentist right away. Your dentist will assess the tooth and determine if it is infected. They may provide extra support to the tooth, such as a small flexible splint, to keep the tooth anchored and stable. You will need to wear the splint for two weeks so the tooth can heal and go back into place. If you have a loose tooth due to grinding your teeth, known as bruxism, you may need to wear a special mouth guard at night when you sleep. If you have a loose tooth due to gum disease, you may need to have deep cleaning done on the tooth. If the tooth is too loose to be saved and is very infected, the dentist may recommend removing it. They will do a tooth extraction, numbing the area so you do not feel any pain when it is removed. You may then need to wear a dental implant or a partial denture to replace the tooth. Having an implant will prevent your other teeth from pulling out of their sockets to try to fill the space.

Summary: See your dentist if you have a loose adult tooth or the tooth is infected. Speak to your dentist about your treatment options. Discuss removing the loose tooth, if necessary.

Hardware stores and home-improvement stores sell a variety of both chemical and natural repellent sprays. Purchase 2 or 3 and alternate them so deer don't become accustomed to 1 of the scents. Follow the instructions printed on the packaging and apply as directed. Keep in mind that the spray will wear off after a rainstorm, and should be reapplied about 1-2 times per month even in dry weather. Not all commercial deer repellents are environmentally friendly. Read the label before you purchase a repellent if you're concerned about the environment. This is especially important if you'll be spraying the repellent on a vegetable or herb garden. Also consider the smell factor when purchasing a deer repellent. If a spray is too odorous, you're unlikely to want to sit in your garden or yard! A spray made from hot red pepper flakes works as a natural, environment-safe deterrent that won't harm deer but will keep them away from your yard and plants. Cover the perimeter of your yard with the spray 23 times a month to keep deer out. Or, if you're interested in protecting specific plants in a garden plot, spray plants that you don't want eaten by deer with a hot pepper spray. Make the spray by combining 1 gallon (3.8L) of water with 3 tbsp (37 g) of crushed red pepper flakes. Simmer in a saucepan for 15 minutes, then mix in 2 teaspoons (9.9mL) of liquid castile soap. Remove the liquid mixture from the heat and let it sit for 24 hours, then strain it into a plastic spray bottle. Deer dislike both the smell and the taste of soap. Sprinkling a few generous handfuls of it around the perimeter of your yard or garden beds can repel deer. You only need to reapply the soap to your yard about 1 time per month, or after a heavy rainstorm. To create the soap flakes, try grating off pieces of bar soap using a clean cheese grater. Or, use a kitchen knife to cut a bar of soap into 14in 14in (0.64cm 0.64cm) cubes. The human scent that emanates from the hair will deter the deer from entering your yard. Spread a generous amount of hair around the perimeter of your yard if you're concerned that deer may invade. If you have a smaller garden plot or flowerbed, spread hair across the entire area. To obtain a bag of hair, visit a local barber or hairdresser. They should have plenty of leftover hair at the end of every business day, and will most likely give it to you free of charge. Make 10-15 of these hair-filled socks, and hang them from tree branches or fence posts around the perimeter of your yard, flower bed, or vegetable garden. Hanging socks full of hair will fill the area with a human scent and keep deer away. Since the hair will be contained within the socks, the makeshift repellent should work for a few weeks. Then, fill new socks with hair and hang them in the same locations. Use dirty, old socks that you don't mind throwing away once the hair has stopped deterring deer from entering your yard.

Summary: Spray a commercial deer repellent across your yard. Cover the edges of your yard in hot pepper spray as a natural deterrent. Sprinkle 4-5 handfuls of soap flakes around the edges of your yard. Spread 10-20 handfuls of human hair across your yard. Put 23 handfuls of hair into a sock for a longer-lasting repellent.

With the label facing up, remove the six visible screws with an 8x60 Torx screwdriver. There is usually at least one screw covered by the label. Use your fingers to find the depression, then use a utility knife to expose the screw. Turn the drive over and remove the screws that fasten the drive controller card to the drive. Using a utility knife, cut the seal that runs along the side of the drive on all four sides. Carefully pry open the drive cover, and set it aside. Remove all visible screws and set these aside as well. Use a flat head screwdriver to remove the first rare earth magnet. Next, use the flat head screwdriver to unscrew the drive read/write arm and remove it. With the read/write arm out, you can remove the second magnet. You can retain and reuse these magnets. Use a 7x60 Torx screwdriver to remove the round plate that retains the data disk. Pull out the retaining ring and data disk. Save or destroy this data disk. Use an 8x60 Torx screwdriver to remove the drive motor. Now that the drive is completely disassembled, you can remove the two remaining magnets. With the exception of the motor, the remaining parts are all aluminum. The average hard drive produces one-half pound of recyclable aluminum. Bring this material to an aluminum recycling center.

Summary: Remove the first set of screws. Remove the second set of screws and cut the seal. Open the cover and remove more screws. Remove the magnets and the read/write arm. Remove the data disk. Remove the motor and remaining magnets. Recycle the aluminum.

Use a hammer or mallet to pound stakes into the ground. Leave 3 to 4in (7.6 to 10.2cm) of the pins above the ground so you can easily tie the anchor ropes to them. Metal stakes can be purchased at hardware stores or specialty outdoor stores. Use a stake on each side of the tent at the corners for additional support. Only use this if you are tying your tent down in grass or dirt. If you are setting up your canopy tent on a hard surface, like concrete, you'll have to weigh it down. Make 2 loops near the end of the rope so that the end of the left loop is on top of the rope and the end of the right loop is below the rope. Place the right loop over the left loop so they line up. Set the loops over the stake and pull each side of the rope to firmly tighten it. A clove hitch allows you to adjust the length of the rope easily without undoing the entire knot. Make knots at each of the stakes so the whole tent is secured. Sometimes, the frame will have an anchor to tie the rope to. If not, tie it directly to the horizontal frame at the top of the canopy right next to the support pole. You can use another clove hitch knot or make an overhand knot. Loop the loose end of the rope around the rope pulled taut, making sure the end of the rope goes through the loop. Pull it tight so the excess is taut against the anchor rope. Keep the excess rope up so no one trips or gets tangled up.
Summary: Drive metal stakes into the ground 6ft (1.8m) away from each pole of the tent. Make clove hitch knots with braided rope. Tie the ends of the ropes to the frame of the tent. Tie the excess rope around the taut rope close to the stake.