Holding a mallet is like holding a drumstick or bike handle. Use your thumb to support the outside of the mallet. Wrap your index finger around the other side. This finger should not be on top of the mallet. Move your other fingers under your index finger. Your grip should be about halfway up the mallet shaft. One way to check your grip is to open up your hand. Try to balance the mallet on your index finger. The spot where the mallet feels balanced is where your grip should be. Stay relaxed as you move the mallets towards the glockenspiel. Hold the mallets about three inches (7.62 cm) above the keys at all times. Adjust your hands so that the mallets are level with the ground. Try striking one of the keys. Listen as the note vibrates cleanly. Striking near the ends of the bars produces a more muted sound. The key to good sound is a gentle strike. Don't use force. Instead, bring the mallet down gently and allow the impact with the bar to bounce it back into position. Striking too hard will also cause the bar to vibrate too much and produce a muted sound. Don't draw back when the mallet rebounds off the bar. Return it to a holding position right above the keys. As long as you keep the mallets about three inches above the keys, you'll be able to play notes in rapid succession. Strike the second note with your other hand. If you hit the first one with your left, hit the next one with your right. If you hit it with your right, switch to your left. You will need to cross over your arms as you play. As you advance, you may need to play two notes with the same hand. You do this to minimize crossovers between your hands. Alternating technique is needed for playing two nearby notes very quickly.

Summary: Pick up the mallets between your thumb and index finger. Hold the mallets straight and over the glockenspiel. Aim for the middle of the bar. Bounce the mallet off the bar. Keep the mallet near the bars. Alternate hands when playing notes.

It's the green, yellow, and red icon with the blue dot in the middle. It's the icon with the three vertical dots in the upper-right corner. It's at the bottom of the drop-down menu. It's at the bottom of the Settings page. This will expand more advanced settings. It is found under the Passwords and Forms heading. It's the switch at the top of the Manage Passwords page and will turn blue when it is enabled Now every time you log in with a login and password that isn't saved, you'll be prompted to save it. This optional setting will allow Google Chrome to automatically sign you in when visiting sites you've already saved the password for. If turned off, Chrome will require you to confirm your password every time you sign in to a website.

Summary: Open Google Chrome . Click . Click Settings. Click Advanced. Click Manage Passwords. Click the switch at the top to the ON position . Turn the Auto Sign-in switch to the ON position .

Get 12-gauge uninsulated copper wire to make your antenna. Measure out 8 separate pieces that are 17 inches (43cm) long and mark the lengths with a marker. Use a pair of wire cutters to snip the wires on your marks so you have 8 pieces. You can get uninsulated wire from your local hardware store. You can bend the wire by hand or use a pair of pliers if it's easier. Grab the ends of one piece of wire and bend it in half so the ends touch one another. Unbend the wire so it looks like a V-shape and the ends are 3 inches (7.6cm) apart. Repeat the process with the rest of the wire pieces. Bending the wires helps them pick up frequencies better so you get a clearer image. Put a drill bit in your drill that has a diameter 18in (0.32cm) smaller than the screws you plan on using. Position the first hole on a 32in (81cm) board so it's along the longest side and 1 inch (2.5cm) down from the end. Continue adding holes every 8 inches (20cm) down the length of the board before drilling holes on the other side. Make sure the holes are in line with one another so the antenna ears are directly across from one another. Don't drill completely through the board or else the screws may not stay secure later on. Line up the centers of the metal washers with the holes you just drilled in the wood. Feed the ends of 12in (1.3cm) wood screws into the holes and turn them clockwise by hand. Continue turning the screws until they're stuck in the piece of wood. Don't tighten the screws completely since you still need to fit wires underneath each of the washers. Lift one of the washers up so it's pressed against the top of the screw. Position one of the antenna ears you bent underneath the washer so the ends point out and away from the piece of wood. Make sure the bend in the wire is pulled tightly against the base of the screw so it doesn't move or shift around. Repeat the process for the other screws. In total, you'll have 4 antenna ears on each side of the wooden board. Don't let the individual antenna ears touch one another since it could negatively affect the signal strength. Cut 2 pieces of your copper wire to 34in (86cm) lengths. Wrap the end of the wire once around the topmost screw on the left side of the board. Guide the wire around the second and third screw from the top on the right side of the board. Bend the wire back toward the left side of the board so it goes underneath the bottom left washer. Add the other wire so it starts on the top right screw, crosses and goes around the second and third screws on the left, and ends on the bottom right screw. These wires are known as the "phasing bars" and they connect the antenna ears to help boost the frequency between them so you receive a better image. Use a screwdriver to finish tightening the screws on your board. Continue turning them clockwise so the washers press down on the wires underneath them and hold the wires securely against the wood. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure they don't come loose. If the wires pull out or come loose from under the washers, reposition the wires and continue tightening the screws. Make sure none of the antenna ears touch one another after you tighten the screws or else the signal won't be as clear. There will be 2 points in the middle of the board where the phasing bars intersect one another. Wrap a piece of electrical tape around each of the wires at the intersection to prevent them from touching one another. Tape the other intersection the same way to keep the wires separate. If the phasing bar wires touch, it could cause the channels to look fuzzy or short out the antenna. an impedance-matching transformer to each of the phasing bars. An impedance-matching transformer (IMT) has a coaxial port that connects to your TV and 2 end wires that attach to the phasing bars on the antenna. Position the IMT in the middle of the antenna and bend the ends out so they touch the wires of the phasing bars. Heat up a soldering iron, and solder the ends of the IMT so they're secured to phasing bar wires. Let the solder dry for about a minute before continuing. You can buy an IMT from an electronics or hardware store. Don't touch a soldering iron while it's hot, or else you could burn yourself. Coaxial cables are standard for attaching your TV to an antenna or cable signal so the image appears clearly on screen. Screw the end of a coaxial cable directly into the port on the IMT until it's hand-tight. Attach the other end of the coaxial cable to the port on the back of your TV to connect it. Keep the antenna vertical so you can get the best signal. Turn on your TV so you can look at the image, and move the antenna around your room until you get a clear picture on the TV. Cycle through the channels to see what's available from your new antenna. You may need to reposition the antenna often depending on the channel and signal strength. Don't put your antenna outside since there is exposed wiring and you could cause it to short out. The channels you receive will vary depending on your location and the strength of the signal.
Summary: Cut 8 pieces of copper wire that are each 17 inches (43cm). Bend the wires into V-shaped ears so the ends are 3in (7.6cm) apart. Drill holes every 8in (20cm) on the sides of a 32in (81cm) board. Feed screws and washers into the holes you just drilled. Wrap the antenna ears around the screws so the ends point out. Thread 34 inches (86cm) wires between the ears so they zig-zag. Tighten the screws so the washer holds the wires in place. Tape the sections of the phasing bars where the wires intersect to separate them. Solder Connect a coaxial cable to the end of the IMT. Position your antenna until you get a clear TV image.