Fold the thumb piece down its center and stitch along the top and side, joining them together. Stop just short of the bottom curve. If you want to hide your stitching, make sure that the right sides of all pieces face each other as you stitch and turn the pieces right-side out once they are stitched together. Alternatively, you can keep all of your stitching on the outside of the gloves, allowing it to remain visible. In that case, keep all of the pieces right-side out as you stitch them together. Hidden and visible stitches are both an option with leather, so this is merely a personal style choice on your part. Insert the open bottom of your thumb piece into the thumb hole of your trank piece. Pin the edges of the thumb to the edges of the hole, then sew around the entire joined edge. Make sure that the thumb points upward as you insert it into the thumb hole. The thumb piece edge and thumb hole should match pretty evenly. You can bend the edge of the thumb hole inward so that the right sides of the hold edge and thumb piece face each other, or you can pin/sew the right side of the thumb edge along the wrong side of the hole edge. Either option will work, so again, this is merely a matter of style preference. You will need to connect it to the palm and back sides of your trank pattern. Pin and sew in place. Attach the fourchette to the palm side of your pattern first. Once the piece has been sewn onto the palm side of the trank, attach it to the back side of the trank. Sew from the tip of the index finger and down along the palm side slit, then back up to the tip of the middle finger. When joining the fourchette to the back trank, start from the tip of the middle finger and move down the slit, then back up to the tip of the index finger. Once the fourchette between your index and middle fingers has been sewn on, move onto the fourchettes between your middle and ring fingers and between your ring and pinky fingers. The sewing method for these other two fourchettes is exactly the same as the sewing method for the first. Sew the middle/ring fourchette on next. Once it's on, sew the ring/pinky fourchette on. Work as you did before, sewing each fourchette onto the palm side of your trank first before doubling back over the back side of the glove. If necessary, pin down the glove so that the outer edges of both sides meet each other. Sew down both sides of the gloves and close up any gaps that still remain around the finger area. The only opening left by the end of this step should be the wrist opening. This, of course, remains open. If you want to hide your side seams, make sure that the right sides of your glove pieces face each other as you finish up the sewing. Turn the glove right-side out when the sewing is finished. If you want the seams to show, keep the wrong sides facing in as you sew. When you complete this step, you should have one finished glove. Follow the same exact sewing steps with your remaining pieces to make a second glove that matches the first. Sew the thumb piece together, then sew the thumb piece into the thumb hole of the trank. Stitch all the fourchettes in place, working with the index/middle combination first, followed by the middle/ring combination, and concluded with the ring/pinky combination. Note that the palm side of this glove will be the opposite of the palm side for your first glove. Stitch along the sides and open finger gaps to complete the glove, leaving only the wrist open. At this point, your gloves are finished and ready to wear.
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One-sentence summary -- Sew down the side of the thumb. Pin and sew the thumb on. Insert the first fourchette piece in between your first fingers. Repeat this procedure with the other two fourchettes. Sew down the side of your glove. Repeat with the second glove. Try on your gloves.

Pour the resurfacer powder into a 5USgal (19L) bucket, then add the water. Use a paddle attachment on a corded drill to mix the resurfacer. Keep mixing the resurfacer until it has a thick consistency like cookie dough. Resurfacer can be purchased from your local hardware store. The amount of resurfacer you need depends on how many cracks and holes you need to fill. Start by mixing 1 cup (240ml) of water with 312 pounds (1.6kg) of resurfacer mix. Always wear rubber or nitrile gloves before touching the resurfacer. That way, it won't dry on your skin. Use a trowel to transfer the resurfacer onto your concrete. Press the resurfacer into the crack so it fills it completely and so there aren't any air bubbles. Once the crack or divot is full, smooth out the top of the crack with a flat trowel so it lays flush with the rest of the slab. Cracks only need to be filled if they go more than halfway through the concrete slab. Avoid filling in the joints between slabs. Don't resurface the rest of your concrete until your patches are dry. In temperatures around 73F (23C), your patches should dry within 6 hours. Drying time may take longer depending on your weather conditions. Avoid using resurfacer then the temperatures are below 50F (10C) or if there's a risk of freezing weather within 8 hours of applying it.
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One-sentence summary -- Mix 1 part water with 7 parts resurfacer using a drill and paddle attachment. Fill the cracks with the resurfacer mix. Let the patches dry for 6 hours.

The water supply valve will either be located behind the toilet or in the crawl space or basement space directly beneath the toilet. Remove any washer as well. If the bolt spins as you turn the nut, then hold the bolt with a pair of pliers using your non-dominant hand.
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One-sentence summary -- Turn the water supply to the toilet off by turning the valve in a clockwise direction. Remove the lid of the toilet tank and flush the toilet, holding down the handle so that as much water as possible drains from the tank and the bowl. Use a plastic cup to scoop out any water that is left in the bowl and then dry up the last drops of moisture with a dry sponge. Disconnect the water supply tube by turning the compression nut on the water supply valve in a counterclockwise direction with a wrench or a pair of pliers. Pry the caps from the washers at the base of the toilet using a flat head screwdriver. Remove the nuts from the bolts at the toilet base using a wrench. Place the nuts, washers, and caps where you will be able to find them when the time comes to put the toilet back in place. Hold the toilet under the bowl and rock it gently back and forth to break the old wax seal. Lift the toilet off of the floor and set it down on a blanket, a piece of cardboard or in the bathtub.

You can use an Internet search or the yellow pages to find what you're looking for. Most areas have spa waxing treatments available for reasonable prices. If you're hoping for a professional grade waxing you might as well hire a professional! Try not to miss your appointment. Depending on if you want your legs waxed fully or just the bottom portion the treatment could cost you anywhere from $ 30 - $80 dollars. It's slightly more expensive than waxing at home but you won't have to lift a finger. That's it! When you enter the spa tell whoever is working at the front desk your name and that you have an appointment. The whole process shouldn't take longer then two hours but the spa will let you know when you book your appointment.
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One-sentence summary --
Search for leg wax services in your area. Call to make an appointment. Show up for your appointment.