INPUT ARTICLE: Article: In some cases, you can easily find the area that needs planing because the sticking has rubbed the surface of the paint on the jamb and the door. Areas along the edge where the paint is discolored or gone are the areas that you need to plane. If the discoloration is subtle, use a pencil and draw a circle around the area. This will help you find it when you are using the plane. If you don't know exactly where your door is rubbing, look at the gap between the jamb and the door when it is closed. The gaps will be smallest in the area where the door is rubbing. Once you have identified this area, you can look closer for additional signs of rubbing. Do this repeatedly while looking for the point where the door first makes contact with the jamb. You should be able to find the spots that rub by looking at where the door makes contact when the door catches. If the door doesn't close all the way, close it as much as you can and then push all around the door to see which areas feel loose and could close further and which feel tight. The tight areas are where the door is catching. Once you think you know where the door is rubbing, put pencil marks all over that area. Then open and close the door several times. If the marks are transferred to the jamb, this is an area of contact that needs to be planed down.

SUMMARY: Look for areas on the door and jamb that show signs of rubbing. Look for differences in the gaps around the door. Open and close the door to locate trouble spots. Use pencil marks to verify rubbing areas.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: For a basic mortar mix, you'll want to mix essentially three parts of sand for every one part of cement you use. If you're mixing up a whole bag of cement, that'll mean you'll use three times that amount of sand, which will result in a big batch of mud. Only mix up as much as you'll need. The measurement doesn't need to be precise as a baking recipe. At most work sites, when mixing large amounts, the amount of sand is usually given in "shovels full" per bag of mortar mix, which usually works out to somewhere between 15 and 18, depending on how large the shovel scoops are. It's important to get close, but it's more of an eyeball measurement. You don't need to get out the teaspoons. A bag of mortar should be mixed with about three gallons of clean water to achieve the right consistency. The amount of water used can vary drastically depending upon the weather, how wet the sand is, and the variety of mix you're using, so read the instructions carefully before adding water. Ambient conditions ( temperature and humidity) will affect the mix and need to be considered. A drier mix will yield a stronger bond. A wetter mix might be easier to work. That's where experience comes in. Using a fine-grade, sharp masonry sand for the job is more appropriate than other varieties, and using fresh unopened bags of masonry cement will be more effective than using older bags. Masonry cement mixes, like Quikrete, Sakrete, and other brands are all appropriate for the job. Some brands come pre-mixed specially for mortar, which means you don't need to add sand. These are somewhat more expensive than regular Portland cement, but are much better for smaller projects. Read the label and find out what you're getting. If you don't need to add sand, the mixing process is still the same. Portland cement is not a brand of cement. It is the name of the most common type of ingredient used to mix mortars, concrete and other bonding mixes. Keep the sand and dry cement covered to keep them as dry as possible. It's easy to ruin your materials if they get too humid and damp. Try to mix up only as much as you'll need, but also to use up what dry mix you have so that you can take advantage of your materials. Check your cement bags for lumps. If there are lumps or hard chunks on the bag, it has been exposed to moisture and won't bond well, it needs to be discarded. Different brands may recommend slightly different mixes. Read the label on the brand of mix you buy and follow the instructions. In general, however, a mix of 3-to-1 is usually appropriate and effective. In some areas where the wall you're building will be exposed to especially high winds or the elements, lime is added to increase the bonding and strengthen the stonework you're building. If you do elect to add lime to your mix, you'll also need to add more sand to balance out the ratio somewhat, resulting in a stronger, more bonded mortar. An appropriate ratio if you want to use lime would be six parts of sand to two parts of lime to one part of cement. This means that you need to work more quickly or mix a smaller batch. In very wet, cold, or humid weather, the mortar will behave differently than if it's really hot and dry weather. You may find it more effective to use slightly less sand and slightly more water if that's the case. Experiment some to get the right consistency and mix. In general, it's easiest to use mortar in moderate, dry weather than, cold and humid weather. While that's not always possible, you can learn to recognize the right consistency and add water appropriately. Keep in mind that the finished product must be kept from freezing until set.

SUMMARY: Measure three parts sand to one part masonry cement. Use the right amount of water. Use the correct sand and mortar. Consider using lime as an additive. Keep in mind that adding lime to your mixture will make the mortar set more quickly. Match the recipe to the weather. Mortar mixed to the right consistency should hold onto a trowel held at a 90 degree angle, but should also be wet enough to work easily and pour into and out of buckets. If working on cold, near freezing weather, try adding slightly more lime and hot/warm water to aid the hydration reaction of cement and help it set quickly.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: If normal flossing hurts, a smooth and sometimes spongy dental tape might not. Dental tape is a special type of floss that's especially thin and wide almost like a small ribbon. Dental tape is used in the same way as normal floss, but people who have painful teeth or gums often find it to be more comfortable. Proxy brushes are small, flexible, pointed brushes that have bristles that look similar to a pine tree. Their unique shape makes them perfect for cleaning behind braces simply insert the brush under the wire and between the teeth, then scrub to clean. Proxy brushes aren't available everywhere, so talk to your dentist or orthodontist if you're interested in getting one. You can also use a bit of toothpaste on the proxy brush for a better cleaning. Proxy brushes aren't intended to be used as a replacement for floss. They can't clean between the teeth as thoroughly as floss can. Instead, they're used along with floss to ensure that the area behind the braces receives enough cleaning. An orthodontic brush is a special type of toothbrush with V-shaped bristles. These special bristles help it clean behind braces and other orthodontic appliances, making them a big help when it comes to keeping your teeth clean. As with proxy brushes, orthodontic brushes are meant to be used with floss not instead of it.

SUMMARY:
Use dental tape. Use a proxy brush. Use an orthodontic brush.