Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Hold your baby over your shoulder to make them feel close to you. Try to burp older babies while they sit on your lap. Consider placing your baby over your knees if the other positions don't work. Keep your baby upright after feeding.

Answer: Bring the baby's chest against your upper chest so their chin rests on your shoulder. Use your other hand to support the baby's bottom. Then, rub and pat your baby's back for up to 1 minute or until you hear a burp. This classic burping position is great for small babies that don't have much upper body control. Some babies enjoy it if you walk around slowly while in this position. If your baby has good upper body control, set them on your lap so they're facing away from you. Bring 1 arm in front of your baby and lean them forward slightly so they're resting on your arm. Then, use the palm of your other hand to gently rub and pat their back. Consider tucking a burp cloth into the top of your baby's shirt like a bib. This will catch any spit up. Ensure that you're not applying pressure to the baby's throat as you support them. If your baby is unwell, it might be difficult for them to release any trapped air. If your baby hasn't burped, try laying the baby across your lap so their face is pointing down. Use your hand to support the baby's chin and rub their back with the other hand. If your baby seems uncomfortable in this position, switch back to a different position. Your baby might not like the pressure on their stomach. If your baby has an upset stomach, avoid laying them down once you've finished feeding and burping them. Instead, hold the baby upright for at least 30 minutes to prevent them from choking on spit up or vomit. Sitting in an upright position will also help them digest food and will prevent stomach acid from flowing up into the esophagus.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Buy a pair of male and female Zebra finches. Feed your birds sprouted seeds and greens to encourage breeding. Place nesting materials in the cage. Wait for your birds to mate.

Answer: You can ask for a pair, or if you want to pick them out yourself, look for the male and female characteristics. Males have red-orange cheeks and a black stripe across their chest. Females have gray cheeks and no bars. However, you won't be able to see these differences in birds under 6 weeks, so ask for help sexing them if you're unsure. You can buy finches from a pet shop, online, or from a reliable breeder. If possible, get a pair that has bonded. Ask the breeder or shop owner if they have a bonded pair. The birds must be healthy and be 9-to 12-months old to breed. Healthy birds will be alert and active, and their feathers will look clean and unruffled. Make sure the birds are not related to each other, as you don't want to inbreed your birds. That can lead to genetic defects and unhealthy babies. If you use a very large cage, you can set up multiple pairs in the same cage, as these are social birds. Your birds can eat a finch seed mix, mealworms, and Panicum millet. However, make sure to include greens and sprouted seeds in addition, as that will tell your birds it's time to start breeding. You can put their food in dishes and in the litter on the floor. You can sprout the bird's seed mixture yourself or buy sprouts from the grocery store. Wash any greens thoroughly and chop them finely. Nesting materials will encourage your birds to breed. Put in dried grass or nesting material from the pet store, which your finches will use to build their nest. Finches will also use nesting boxes you place in the cage. Try small wicker or even plastic baskets or bowls. Place a couple throughout the cage. Avoid using string in the cage. Finches will usually breed readily once the conditions are right. You may see a male carry a piece of grass around while it hops after a female; he's showing he can build a nest. If your finches haven't mated within a month, something may be wrong, and you should contact a veterinarian. While the birds are courting and nesting, make sure that any greens you feed them are getting eaten; some birds may want to take them into their nests, and they will rot.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Launch vi to edit the grub boot loader menu to add a new entry for this kernel. Use vi to add your new entry. Reboot the PC when back at the command prompt. Test the new mode' by repeating steps 1 to 3 of the "Booting to Single User Mode" section, then selecting "Rescue Mode", and pressing Enter.

Answer: Type the following command and press Enter after it:vi /mnt-system/boot/grub/menu.lst The vi editor is not intuitive for those familiar with more graphical editors such as Notepad, Wordpad, or Word on Microsoft Windows. It is very powerful, but at the same time, very complicated and difficult to learn. For now, follow the steps below to edit this file. Use the cursor keys to move down to the first entry (paragraph) for "Normal Boot". Place the cursor on the first line of this section. Copy the section by using the following keystrokes. This will copy five lines from where the cursor is located: 5 Y Y Move the cursor down below this section to the next blank line. Paste our previously copied text by using: P For the third line of this new entry, starting with "kernel" (ie: kernel /boot/vmlinuz-2.6.21.4-eeepc quiet rw vga=785 irqpoll root=/dev/sda1), add a space and then XANDROSBOOTDEBUG=y at the end of this line. For example:kernel /boot/vmlinuz-2.6.21.4-eeepc-2GB quiet rw vga=785 irqpoll root=/dev/sda1 XANDROSBOOTDEBUG=y.To do this, press I to switch vi into insert mode, move the cursor to this location, and insert text. To remove text, use Backspace only; do not use Delete. Rename the title of this new entry to anything you desire. For example, rename it to "Rescue Mode". To get out of vi's insert mode, and back into command mode, press Esc. Save your file by pressing :+W+Q. To exit vi without saving, press :+Q+!. Do this by pressing Ctrl+D twice (possibly three times) until you either see a message that states "Press [Enter] to restart", or the until the Eee PC restarts on its own. If you followed all of the examples above, the default boot selection should be the new kernel.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: House your crabs in a large glass tank. Add a secure lid to the tank. Fill the bottom of the tank with sand or coconut fiber. Keep the humidity in the tank high by spraying the substrate regularly. Keep the crabitat between 75F (24C) and 84F (29C). Provide dechlorinated drinking water in a non-metallic dish. Set up dishes with dechlorinated freshwater and saltwater for bathing. Add decor, hiding places, and toys.

Answer:
The best enclosure to use is a glass aquarium. Size is a very important factor when deciding how many hermit crabs you will keep. A good rule of thumb is 1 inch (2.5cm) of hermit crab per 1 gallon (3.8l). To determine how long your crabs are, measure across the shell opening. Remember, the habitat (or as many people call it, "crabitat") needs to be able to hold 3 dishes, climbing toys, shelters, shells, and have space for the crabs to walk around. A 10USgal (38l) tank usually does nicely for a maximum of 3 small hermit crabs. You may want to consider starting off with at least a 30USgal (110l) tank. A larger tank will allow more climbing toys and more space. Hermit crabs, when cared for properly, can live for decades and grow very slowly to the size of a baseball. The tank size will need to increase as the hermit crabs grow. Hermit crabs are escape artists. If there is any possible way for the crabs to escape, they will almost always find it. Use a secure lid to ensure no crabs escape and that all the humidity stays in the tank. Select a lid with small air holes installed in it. If your tank has a mesh lid, you can cover it with plexiglass to prevent escapes. Hermit crabs need a humid environment, so this will also keep the moisture in the tank. Be sure to leave a little bit open at each end to allow for air flow. Hermit crabs require a deep substrate at least twice the height of your largest crab. The crabs will burrow themselves into the substrate to molt (shedding their exoskeleton to grow). You can use sand, coconut fiber, or a mixture of the two for your crabitat. Medium crabs (golf ball size) need at least 8 inches (20cm) of substrate for molting. Small crabs (quarter size) need 6 inches (15cm). Tiny crabs (often called "micros", the size of a dime) need 4 inches (10cm) of substrate. Examine the substrate carefully before putting it in the crabitat. Sift some through your fingers and check for insects. Be sure to smell it, too. Sand that smells moldy has probably been contaminated. Spray the bottom and the sides of the tank every day with dechlorinated water and keep the lid of the crabitat closed. Buy a humidity gauge at your local pet supply store and check it every day. Crabs will thrive only if the humidity is between 70-80%. Remember that the inside of your crabitat should be like a mini-Caribbean island. It should have a moist, tropical feel to it. Keep the substrate at sandcastle consistency. You should be able to make a hole in it easily, but not get your fingers wet. Puddles of water or muddy substrate means you are misting too much. If you have a plastic crabitat with holes in the lid, place a warm moist towel over the lid to get an extra humidity boost inside. To do this, find an under tank heater or heat lamps at your local pet store. Buy a thermometer or hydrometer to measure the ambient air temperature in the tank as well. When using a 10USgal (38l) tank, the best way to heat the tank is with an under the tank heater (usually referred to as a UTH). These are small pads that stick to the outside glass of the enclosure and usually raise the temperature up between 4 and 6 degrees. Try placing the unit on the bottom of the tank. Even with a thick layer of substrate the UTH will be effective. Heat lights work great on larger enclosures and can usually heat the tank to any temperature. A 40 watt light will do nicely on a 10USgal (38L) tank. Heat lights do dry out the tank very quickly, however, so you may have to spray the inside of the tank more often. Make sure that the heat source is placed on one side of the tank, and not in the middle. This is so the tank has a warm and cool side so the crabs can be around whatever temperature they prefer. To dechlorinate drinking water for your crabs at home, buy a small bottle of tap water conditioner in the fish section of your pet store. Follow the instructions for making 1USgal (3.8l) of water. Hermit crabs cannot drink tap water. This water is treated with chlorine which can cause permanent blisters on the crabs' gills. It's a lot easier to have a batch of water ready to use for the next few weeks or so rather than having to make a small amount every day. Look for a conditioner that removes chlorine and chloramine and neutralizes heavy metals. Hermit crabs like to drag themselves into their water dish to sit and bath themselves sometimes. Be sure you use non-metallic dishes big enough for your crabs to bathe in, but not so deep that your smallest crabs will drown in them. If you have very large and very small crabs living together, put pebbles at the bottom of the large crab's water dish so a small crab can have a way to get out of it if it falls in by accident. Always make sure there is a way for the crabs to climb out of the dishes. Put a little bit of sponge, shells, or pebbles in the dish. You can also make your own fresh, dechlorinated saltwater. Make 1USgal (3.8l) of dechlorinated water using your water conditioner. Add 10 tbsp (170 g) of aquarium salt. Let the water sit overnight so the salt dissolves. Do not use table salt to make the salt water. It contains harmful iodine. Many crabs also drink salt water prior to molting. Providing salt water allows the hermit crab to choose what kind of water it would like to drink. Use fish or reptile decor to add decoration and hiding places for the crabs. Make sure that they have large enough openings for a crab to easily enter and exit. Provide various plants and structures for the crabs to climb on. You can use coconut huts, ceramic flower pots, large shells, reptile caves, fish decor and many other things as potential shelters. Pieces of wood, Lego structures, cork bark, fake or live plants, rocks, large coral, barnacle clusters, and fish decor all make great climbing structures. Avoid using evergreen wood in the crabitat, as it annoys the hermit crabs. Try creating a second level to the crabitat by using a shower caddy stuck to the glass walls of the tank. Fill it with moss or coconut fibre. Add a branch to act as a ladder for the crabs to climb up. Prop up a large branch into a corner and drape it with fake plants so that it acts as a tree which the hermit crab will enjoy hiding in.