INPUT ARTICLE: Article: If there is only one eyepiece, you can skip this step. With a binocular eyepiece, turn the eyepieces to find the correct space between the eyes, or interpupillary distance. You should see a single circle of light when you look through both eyepieces. If you see two images when you look through the eyepieces, you need to continue to adjust the distance. Move the eyepieces closer together or further apart until you see a single circle of light. Remove your glasses, if you wear them. You can use the microscope's settings to focus the object according to your sight. The diaphragm allows you to change the amount of light on the slide. To begin focusing on your specimen, you want to shine the maximum amount of light on the slide. There should be a lever or spinning disc that allows you to alter the diameter. Move the lever or spin the disc until the diaphragm is all the way open. You may have two or three different rotating objective lenses that you can switch into place to magnify the object. You should start with the 4x objective and increase until it is focused. Usually, the 4x (sometime 3.5x) objective is the standard for the lowest magnification on a basic microscope. The low power objective gives you the widest view, and allows you to slowly bring the object into focus without missing it. It is often called the scanning objective for this reason. Starting at the high power objective may mean that you don't see the object or you don't see the full object. The two most common high power objectives are the 10x and 40x. The eyepiece has a 10x magnification that is multiplied by the magnification of the objective; therefore, the 4x objective gives you a total magnification of 40x (10 times 4). The 10x objective gives you a magnification of 100x and the 40x objective, a 400x magnification. Most slides are much larger than the specimen that is mounted on them. If you can see the specimen, try to position it directly in the middle of the light source. If you can't see it, move the slide slowly around while looking through the eyepiece. Remember, the magnification is mirrored, so you will need to move it the opposite direction on the stage to adjust it properly in your lens. Start with the coarse adjustment knob (the larger of the two knobs), move to the fine adjustment, and then change the light levels. While looking into the eyepiece, slowly turn the coarse focus knob until you start to see the image come into focus. Use the fine adjustment knob to focus the slide further. Be aware that as you focus, the stage rises closer to the objective. It is possible to raise the stage enough to touch some of the objective lenses, so take care during the focusing process to avoid this. Adjust the diaphragm below the stage. Reducing the light may allow the object to look more rich and less washed out. Switch to a higher objective only when you cannot focus it further with the low power objective scope. The higher magnification will allow you to see more detail in your specimen. Not all high objectives are used with all slides, since some can focus too closely. Use caution when switching between objectives to avoid breaking the slide. Use the fine adjustment knob when working with the higher objectives, such as the 10x option. Because the coarse knob moves the objectives closer to the stage, the slide can crack if you're not paying attention. Switch between different objectives and adjust the focus knobs until you are comfortable using the microscope. Try using different slides to increase your practice. Lenses can easily be damaged by dust and other floating particles. Keeping the lenses and stage clear of dust will prevent damage from occurring. Only clean the lens with approved solution and a lint-free cloth.

SUMMARY: Adjust your eyepiece, if you have a binocular set. Adjust the diaphragm to its widest opening. Start focusing on the lowest power objective. Move the slide to center it on the stage, if necessary. Focus the slide using the adjustment knobs and diaphragm. Magnify the image with a higher objective. Store the microscope in a dust cover.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Older incandescent light bulbs do not contain liquid mercury. But, some newer energy-saving compact fluorescent light (CFL) bulbs do. Check the packaging that the bulbs came in for warnings regarding their mercury content. Energy-saving bulbs typically contain no more than 4 mg of mercuryjust enough to cover the tip of a pen. Even if the CFL bulb contains mercury, it might be in gaseous rather than liquid form. LED bulbs don't contain liquid mercury. Tilt switches (sometimes called "mercury switches") were used in older appliances to transmit an on/off signal. Appliances in the home that may contain mercury include chest freezers, televisions, thermostats, washing machines, space heaters, clothes dryers, and washing machines. Contact the appliance manufacturer or check your user manual to confirm if a given appliance has mercury. Contact an appliance recycler or your local hazardous waste collection center for information regarding the best way to dispose of these appliances. You might be able to locate up to 3 grams of mercury in thermostats. Most normal batteries do not contain mercury. However, the smaller "button cell" batteries that are used in watches, hearing aids, toys, pacemakers, and other devices still contain mercury. If you can find a device containing these small batteries, you've probably found liquid mercury. Certain pharmaceutical products might contain liquid mercury. Skin antiseptics, facial creams, contact lens solutions, and some vaccines could contain liquid mercury. To confirm that your pharmaceutical products contain liquid mercury, check the ingredients label or contact the manufacturer. Clocks from the 1600s or before often used liquid mercury as a pendulum weight. If you own such a clock, it probably contains liquid mercury.

SUMMARY:
Identify compact fluorescent light bulbs. Locate mercury in tilt switches. Find mercury in small batteries. Search for mercury in pharmaceuticals. Check antique clocks.