Problem: Article: These cool carnivorous plants are made up of two partsa stem or 'body' of the plant that allows it to photosynthesize like a normal plant, and the lamina or leaf-blade that helps it to catch its prey. The leaf-blade is the 'head' that everyone will recognizeit looks like a green clam shell with some wicked long 'teeth'. These 'teeth' are actually trigger hairs that tell the fly trap there's a tasty insect nearby. These protein-powered plants are common enough that you could find one in supermarkets or garden centers, but if you want an older or more disease resistant plant, look up a reliable nursery that carries them. There are also online sites that specialize in carnivorous plants. While you won't be able to pick out the specific plant you want, they will be able to ship a fly trap to you, as well as provide you with care information about your plant. They are an endangered species and protected by law. You could be facing a fine or even jail.
Summary: Know a bit about Venus fly traps before you buy one. Get your fly trap from a licensed distributor. Never harvest a fly trap from the wild.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Fill a couple of slabs with clean water. Let them stand for 24-hours. Drain the slabs. Some hours after draining, add some clean water on the slabs. Based on the numbers, you make a fertilizer plan, without potassium and 15% extra iron and manganese. Keep in mind the need for more calcium. Start off with a 0.2 higher drip EC. Send after 2 weeks a new water sample out. Make a new fertilizer plan based on the results. Begin frequent water (short shots), so you prevent drying out of the blocks through the coco slabs. When necessary to control the plant, you can stop with dripping water for a couple of days, when the plants are fully rooted in. Always put extra (15%) iron and manganese in. Keep an eye on the first drain of the day, coco start draining when it is 100% saturated, this means coco drains average later (rock wool drains a little gradually). Coco has over the average a higher pH (don't worry). The plants grow on the average more vegetative on coco; adjust the temperature to it.

SUMMARY: Prepare a fertilizer plan. Catch the drain water for a water analysis. Fill the slabs. Fill the slabs with the fertilizer plan. Drip with an EC from 1.8 till 2.0 and pH from 5.6. Drip till the slabs are saturated, or even a little bit overflowing out of the plant holes. Drain the slabs after 12 to 24 hours. Make sure that there are enough drain holes in the slabs, 1 between every plant, 1 at begin and end of the slab. Drip after that, 1 liter (0.3USgal) a plant / dripper, with an EC value (fertilizer plan), which you like to start off in the crop. After the planting, bring 35% from the potassium back in the fertilizer plan (based on a regular fertilizer plan). Drip during the season with longer drip rounds. Drip the double concentration of a pesticide on coco then rock wool, when you have to use it, because the organic structure of the slab, coco binds pesticide. Stop on the average a little bit earlier with dripping at the end of the day then by rock wool.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Rub the oil that came with your waxing kit (or another oil made for use on skin) to remove those bits of wax that are still stuck to your body. Gently massaging the dried wax with oil should loosen it right away. Then hop back in the shower and rinse yourself off with warm water. Once all the wax is off, you can use a mild body wash to wash the area. Don't use bar soap, which can leave a film that leads to ingrown hairs. A natural moisturizer (nothing loaded with chemicals) will help soothe your skin, which may be red and irritated after your wax. Use a natural body lotion or a bit of coconut oil to treat the area. This will help prevent infection and ingrown hairs. If your skin feels inflamed even after moisturizing, apply a cool compress to help the inflammation go down. Your skin needs room to breathe and heal, and constricting it under tight clothing won't help. If you have time, spend a few hours wearing nothing but your bathrobe around the house. For the next few days, wear boxers instead of briefs, and stay of skinny jeans until the waxed area is no longer red. Your tender skin will be susceptible to getting infected, so it's best to wait until it's no longer red and inflamed before having sex. The sensitive, pale skin you just waxed could easily burn when exposed to the sun or a tanning bed. It's probably best to avoid tanning this area altogether, but if you're planning to tan, wait several days after waxing to give your skin time to heal. If you end up with an ingrown hair or another inflamed spot that grows increasingly irritated, you may need to have it looked into by a doctor.
Summary: Clean the area. Apply a moisturizer. Don't wear tight underwear or clothes for a few days. Don't have sex for a few days. Don't sunbathe or tan. See a doctor if an infection occurs.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: This is what your bow will be shaped from. It needs to be at the length that you want your bow to be, and it should be made from a wood that is strong, flexible, and malleable. Hickory, yew, lemonwood, and maple are all good woods to use when making a bow. A hatchet, vice grip, bow shaping frame, tillering stick, large file, heat gun, a few screw clamps, and a draw knife will make the process far easier than just using a knife and a large, round object. Make an outline of the limbs and arrow rest of your bow with a pen. Stand the stave up in one hand, and with the other, swing your hatchet. Make the stave as smooth on the sides as you can. You can decide the specifics (flat limbs, wide or narrow limbs) on your own. Mark out where you want your handle to be. Make sure it will bend by putting the bottom tip against your instep, holding the upper tip with one hand, and pulling the back (side facing away from you while shooting) towards you. Don't do this too much, as it could damage your stave. After you have gotten your bow into an outline with the hatchet, you shape the limbs. Place the handle section of your stave in the vice, and tighten it. Make sure the back is facing upwards. Take the draw knife, and draw it along the stave in long strokes. Do this until your stave is at the thickness that you want your bow to be. Sand down any rough edges in the stave. Making your bow too thin will cause it to break.
Summary:
Buy or make a wooden stave. Gather your tools. Mark the outline. Test your stave. Form the limbs.