Write an article based on this "Transfer your plant to a pot that has drainage holes and a tray. Add 1 to 2in (2.5 to 5.1cm) of mulch at the bottom of the pot for drainage. Add new potting soil around the plant if necessary. Water your plant only when the top layer of soil feels dry."
article: Look for a pot that has tiny holes on the bottom so that excess water can drain away from the plant. This prevents the water from settling around the root ball and rotting it. Get a tray to put under your pot if it doesn't come with one. The tray will catch the excess water so it doesn't stain the surface below your pot. Some pots have a tray attached to them. If this is the case for your pot, check the inside of the pot for drainage holes, as you won't be able to remove the tray. While this is optional, it will help you prevent overwatering in the future. Simply layer the mulch at the bottom of the pot, estimating about a 1 to 2in (2.5 to 5.1cm) layer. Leave the mulch loose instead of packing it down. The mulch will help the water drain out of the pot faster so it doesn't drown your roots. If you removed moldy or algae-covered soil or your new pot is bigger, you'll need to add fresh potting soil. Pour the new soil around the roots of your plant. Then, fill up the rest of the pot until you reach the base of the plant. Lightly pat the top of the soil to make sure the plant will stay in place. If necessary, add a little more potting soil after you pat down around the plant. You don't want to see any exposed roots. When you first re-pot the plant, pour water over the soil to moisten it. Then, check the soil before you water the plant again to make sure the soil feels dry, which means the plant needs water. When you water the plant, pour the water directly over the soil so that it goes to the roots. It's best to water your plant in the morning so that the light from the sun will help dry it faster.

Write an article based on this "Find a formal gown or dress to add a corset back to. Remove the zipper with a seam ripper. Undo the zipper, then secure it with a safety pin. Cut the excess zipper away. Tuck the top edges of the zipper into the dress."
article: The dress should have a zipper down the back and fit you well in the bust area. It would be even better if the dress already has boning in the bodice. This will give it some structure and make it more corset-like. Choose a dress whose back sits at your shoulder blades, or just below them. You can also sew a formal gown from scratch. Buy a pattern that allows for the gown to zip up the back, preferably something with boning. Make the gown according to the instructions, then click here to continue. Use the seam ripper to open up the seams where the zipper is connected to the dress. Start at the top of the dress, and go down to the waist. If you want your corset to be longer, you can extend it 1 to 2 inches (2.54 to 5.08 centimeters) below the waist instead. Gently pull the lining of the dress away from the outer fabric to help loosen up the zipper. If your dress does not have a lining, then use the seam ripper to cut the stitches holding the zipper to the dress. Do not take the entire zipper out. Having a few inches/centimeters of zipper in the skirt will help you put the dress on and take it off. Tug down on the zipper pull to open the zipper all the way. Use a safety pin to secure the zipper pull to the fabric of the skirt. This will ensure that the zipper head doesn't slide off of the zipper tape in the next step. Leave about 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) of the zipper tape on each side of the dress. When you removed the zipper, you will have cut the lining of the dress away from the outer fabric. Tuck the excess 1 inch (2.54 centimeters) of the zipper into the dress, right between the lining and the outer fabric. Make sure that it matches up with the edges of the fabric, then secure it with sewing pins. You will need to do this for both halves of the zipper.

Write an article based on this "Draw a roughly to-scale diagram of the areas you wish to irrigate. Divide the areas into rectangles of about 1,200sqft (110m2) each. Mark the location of each sprinkler head on your diagram. Draw in the main water line. Draw branch lines from the main line to each head."
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The schematic should include the main area you'd like to water and any adjacent areas you'd like to have covered by the sprinklers. Starting with a schematic will enable you to plan the routing of pipelines and placement of sprinkler heads so you can purchase your materials. Drawing out the area you'd like to irrigate will also ensure that the entire area is covered by the sprinklers. These will be your "zones," or areas which will be watered as a unit. Consider the type(s) of terrain contained in each zone. For the sake of sprinkler installation, try to limit each zone to 1 type of terrain. For example, 1 zone could be a large, grassy backyard and another could include a garden or sidewalk-side shrubberies. Areas larger than 1,200 square feet (110m2) would require special heads and a higher volume of water than you can normally get from a residential water system. Locate the sprinkler heads throughout the areas you're watering in accordance with the spraying distance of the heads you chose. Mark the to-scale distance that each head will spray onto your schematic. Then, decide which shape you want each head to spray in. A good-quality rotor head will spray an arc, semicircle, or full circle about 2530 feet (7.69.1m) in diameter. If you're using rotor heads, situate each head about 45 feet (14m) apart to allow adequate overlap. Fixed pop-up head sprinklers spray roughly 10 feet (3.0m). To ensure adequate coverage, install fixed pop-up heads about 18 feet (5.5m) apart from one another. If you're installing bubbler sprinkler heads, map them out so that the heads are located about 1.5 feet (0.46m) apart, since each will cover a radius of roughly 1.75 feet (0.53m). As a rule of thumb, it's better to have too much overlap than not enough. Keep in mind when you're positioning the sprinkler heads that the angle of spray on rotor and pop-up heads can be adjusted. Start the line from the location where you plan to install your control valves, timer (if automatically operated), and backflow preventer. Regardless of where you're installing the water system, the main line will most likely start from an outdoor water nozzle. Keep in mind that the PVC pipe you'll use for the water lines can curve only slightly, so all lines must be straight and should turn at 90-degree angles. This portion of the diagram will give you an idea of the length of pipe you'll need. The sketch can be rough, though. Branch lines are the smaller pipes that connect the main line to each of the individual sprinkler heads. Sprinkler heads themselves are never attached to the main lines, but always to the branch lines. You can route a branch line to more than 1 head if you use a 34 inch (1.9cm) pipe, but 2 heads should be the limit. Further down the line, you may decrease the size of the main to 34 inch (1.9cm), also, since near the end it will be supplying only 2 or 3 heads.