Write an article based on this "Remove any unwanted glaze. Allow the pot to dry. Fire your pot."
article: If you did not wax your pot, be sure to wipe any glaze off of the bottom with a sponge. If you did wax your pot, remove any glaze that has gotten onto the dried wax. No matter how many layers of glaze you've added, you have to wait for the final layer to dry thoroughly before firing your pottery. Though you already fired it in the creation stage before you began the glazing process, you should fire it again once you are done.

Write an article based on this "Place a dry, white towel on the spill immediately. Blot the spill with a white towel dampened with water. Use vinegar to lift stains. Use a pool table felt cleaner."
article: Lay paper towel, or a white fabric towel, flat on the spill. Don't press down or you might push the spill into the felt. Replace with dry towels multiple times until the majority of the spill is absorbed. The most important thing is to clean the spill up as soon as it happens to reduce the time it has to soak into the felt and the table board beneath it. If you spilled something besides water, gently dab at the spot with the damp towel. Rinse the towel multiple times to pull up as much of the spill as possible. Don't apply too much pressure as you dab at the spot. Never scrub at the spot because this will mess up the felt. After you have blotted the stain away with water, you can dab it with another dry towel to help it dry out faster, then allow it to air dry. If blotting the stain with water does not sufficiently remove it, mix a solution of vinegar and water at a ratio of 50/50. Dip a cloth in the solution and dab at the stain again. The vinegar will break the stains chemical bonds better than water. Rinse the cloth and dab repeatedly as needed. Vinegar is a less harsh solution than chemical cleaning products so it is safer for felt tables. If blotting the stain with a damp cloth does not completely remove the effects of the spill, use a cleaning product. Only use a cleaner that says it is specifically for pool table felt. Carpet cleaners and other stain removers can damage the felt worse than the spill did. Only use cleaners as a last resort if the spill is bad and can't be blotted away. Seek help from the manufacturer or a professional pool table dealer to determine which product you should use.

Write an article based on this "Mix a wood dye in water. Mist the oak with water to improve dye absorption. Spray the dye onto the wood. Blot off the excess dye after 10 minutes. Wait about 2 hours for the dye to dry. Apply extra coatings of dye as needed. Sand the wood lightly with 320-grit sandpaper. Brush dewaxed shellac onto the dye to seal it into the wood. Wait 30 minutes for the shellac to dry."
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These dyes are give oak a consistent base color that improves the final stain. All you have to do is stir the dye powder into a glass jar filled with water according to the manufacturer's instructions. Mix the dye powder in 50% more water than the label recommends, since this thins the dye and prevents the wood from absorbing too much color. For example, you might mix about 12 cup (120mL) of dye in 2 cups (470mL) of hot water. Visit a home improvement store to find a variety of wood dye shades. For example, a honey amber dye works well on red oak, turning it a light brown color. Fill a spray bottle with room temperature water. Move the bottle along the wood as you spray water onto it. You want to lightly moisten it, not saturate it. The water fills the oak's pores, causing it to dye more evenly. You can also use a sponge to moisten the wood. While you can stain dry wood, this may lead to dark patches and streaks in the stain. Empty out the spray bottle, then load the thinned dye into it. Bring the nozzle close to the oak as you begin misting the dye onto it. Slowly move the bottle along the oak to cover it in a light, even layer of dye. You can also use clean rags or paper towels to wipe the dye onto the wood. The dye will begin soaking into the wood right away. After you are done misting dye, use clean rags or paper towels to wipe away the remaining dye. Remember to work along the oak's grain. Wiping smooths out the coating and removes excess dye that can make the wood too dark. You will need to wait for the oak to feel dry to the touch. If the dye isn't dried properly, it may discolor the final stain. The dye may also darken during this time, so waiting can help you get an idea of how much more dye the wood needs. Check the manufacturer's instructions for drying recommendations. You may need to repeat dyeing 2 or 3 times to get the color you desire. Remember to wait for the wood to dry every time you add another coating of dye. The oak should be a consistent color when you are finished. Each coating of dye deepens the oak's coloring, so be cautious. Reversing a dark dye job is very difficult and you may need to start over on new wood if this happens. Sand along the wood's grain, pressing down very lightly to avoid scratching the oak. This scuffs the oak so it is better able to absorb sealant. Wipe off the wood particles with a clean, dry tack cloth when you're finished. Use only fine-grit sandpaper. Anything coarser will damage the wood. Make sure you sand the entire area. Any areas that appear dull in light usually haven't been sanded enough. You will need a can of clear shellac from a home improvement store. Look for the 2 pounds (0.91kg) variety. Using a paint brush or clean rag, spread the shellac onto the oak, moving along the grain. The 2 pounds (0.91kg) label on the can of shellac means that 2 pounds (0.91kg) of shellac flakes were dissolved in alcohol. You can use sanding sealer or varnish instead of shellac. The shellac should feel dry to the touch. Depending on how well-ventilated your workspace is, drying may take a little longer than this. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended drying time.