Acidic soil can take a long time to really balance out. This can be done by mixing limestone (or garden preparations with limestone in them) in with your soil. Add limestone in fall every year for a few years and you should notice an improvement. Unfortunately, most of the eastern half of the US has acidic soil. This doesn't necessarily mean your soil won't support fruit trees, but it may benefit from being amended with limestone. Sometimes referred to as "alkaline soil," soil like this is found in much of the central and southwestern US. Add a soil conditioner to your dirt, like one containing sulfur or gypsum. Soil conditioners are available at most hardware stores and home centers. Try Sphagnum peat moss as an organic alternative. If you have access to compost materials, apply these regularly to decrease alkalinity. Take readings as you balance to make sure you don't make the soil too acidic. It's very easy to overload the root systems of fruit trees. Their roots are sensitive to direct exposure to fertilizer. Never add fertilizer or manure directly to the hole in which you'll be planting a fruit tree. Fertilize from the top of the soil after the first pruning of the season and as close before budding as possible. If you tree starts budding sooner than expected, you can still fertilize up through June. Late summer and fall will put trees at risk of frost damage. Nitrogen will make your trees grow in a way that will require more pruning but will actually decrease fruit bearing wood. Each tree will have its own unique needs, but most fruit trees require high phosphorus, potash, and iron.
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One-sentence summary -- Reduce soil acidity when necessary. Raise the pH of soil that's too basic. Avoid fertilizing before planting. Use nitrogen light fertilizers for established trees.

Make sure to put on a bike helmet. Even though you may feel you don't need one, a helmet will keep you safe, especially when learning. It is also advisable to wear knee pads, elbow pads, and wrist guards to protect you if you fall. Find a long stretch of a flat road, with as few cracks and ruts as possible. This ensures a smooth ride and is easier to learn on. It will require less effort to move yourself forward too. Place your weak leg on the middle of the scooter's deck. It should be facing straight ahead. Your knee should be bent. Lean forward slightly and grip the handlebars with both hands. Keep your other foot on the ground. Keep the front tube (the front part of the scooter that supports the handlebars) straight at all times while riding unless you're doing a trick that requires otherwise. That's the key to balancing on a scooter. While your planted leg is securely in place on the deck and bent at the knee, use your strong leg to push off of the ground. This will propel you forward. As you kick, straighten your planted leg to generate more momentum, then bend it back for your next kick. To kick, use long, powerful strides as opposed to small, quick ones. Make contact with the ground on the ball of your foot and push back almost like you would while running. To glide, keep your kicking foot up, maybe a few inches off the ground, so that you can stabilize yourself in case you start to tip. Once you have your balance and have picked up speed, move your kicking foot onto the scooter, behind your other foot. Turn your feet at a ninety-degree angle, similar to riding a skateboard. This will help you to travel at speed more aerodynamically. To stop, hit your brake with your back (kicking) foot. Keep your foot there for a few seconds until you come to a complete stop. Press down on the brake gradually so that you don't stop too quickly. If you only tap the break, you'll stop for a second and keep going. To use handbrakes, simply squeeze on the brakes gradually with your fingers. They will be on your handlebar. To control your speed, don't rely on brakes alone. Be sure you aren't kicking too quickly. You can also drag your kicking foot lightly on the ground to slow down. Make sure you are wearing solid shoes when doing this. Take a curve by slowly rotating the handlebar in the direction you wish to turn. If you make a sudden swerve, you may fall. Ride at a safe speed. Be aware of pedestrians, especially in urban areas. Make sure you are always in control of your scooter and able to stop when needed. Don't go at top speed down a hill, you will likely lose control. When going downhill, keep one foot on the brake and press it lightly as you go down. This will keep you from going too fast or losing control. Always yield to cars; pull over to the side of the road when you hear a car behind you. Make sure to obey stop signs and other traffic laws. If you're going to crash into something, just jump off your scooter. To do this, jump and land so that the scooter's deck is between your feet. Then let go of the handlebars. It's a surefire way to not get hurt in a scooter crash.
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One-sentence summary -- Wear protective gear. Start on a flat, paved road. Use a proper stance. Push off the ground with your strong leg. Balance both feet on your scooter when you have enough momentum. Brake smoothly when needed. Rotate the handlebar to turn. Exercise safety precautions.

Draw the tattoo design you'd like on a regular sheet of printer paper, in pencil. It should look exactly how you want your tattoo to look, because it will transfer exactly that way to the transfer paper. Thermographic transfer paper actually comes in a set of three sheets an under sheet, a black piece of carbon paper, and a top transfer sheet where the carbon copy will appear. Place the piece of paper with your original design under the carbon paper and on top of the under sheet. This is specialty equipment that you can find in some tattoo shops. Some printing shops might also have the transfer maker you need. Exactly how you feed the papers in will depend on the exact model maker you have, but the design should always go in face down. Once you've run the transfer paper through the transfer maker, you'll have an exact replica of your initial design on the top piece of carbon paper. Tear the carbon copy off of the set of transfer paper. It might take a couple of tries to get your design exactly where the customer wants it. Ask them repeatedly to make sure they're happy with the eventual position. Mix up a solution of soapy water it should be soapy enough that you get bubbles. You can use a regular, mild dish soap. Dip a cloth in the soapy water and then rub it on the skin where the tattoo will go. Once your client's skin is wet with soapy water, realign the carbon copy of the tattoo over the skin. Ask for your client's approval of the placement, and then press the carbon copy down. Use your hands to completely smooth it out. As you do that, press down, to make sure that the design transfers. As you lift the carbon copy away from your client's skin, you should see the transferred design. If you notice there are places where the design didn't come through, lay the carbon copy back down gently and press a bit harder. Ask you client to approve the final placement once the design has transferred. If they aren't happy, remove the design by wiping down your client's skin with rubbing alcohol on a cotton ball. Repeat the process to create a new carbon copy of the design and apply it to your client's skin.
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One-sentence summary --
Create your tattoo design in pencil. Slide your original design under the carbon paper. Put the whole set of papers through a thermographic transfer maker. Remove the top carbon copy from the rest of the transfer paper. Situate the carbon copy where your client wants the tattoo. Wet down your customer's skin with soapy water. Press the carbon copy down onto your client's skin. Lift off the carbon copy. Repeat these steps if your client isn't happy with the placement.