Article: Choose any flavor of shisha, or tobacco packed in molasses and glycerin. Before removing any from the container, mix it together to bring the flavorful syrup back up from the bottom. Take a small pinch of the shisha and gently break it apart between your fingers, over a plate. If you see stems, cut them into small pieces or discard them. Repeat until you have enough to loosely fill the bowl. Leave it loose, not packed, so air can flow through it. Add tobacco until it forms an even layer about 1/121/8" (23 mm) below the rim of the bowl. If stacked too high, it will stick to the aluminum foil and scorch. If there are a few pieces sticking up too high, gently knock them down with a damp paper towel. You may want to practice with tobacco-free hookah molasses until you've learned the process. This is less likely to burn. You can buy a reusable hookah bowl screen for this purpose, but a homemade foil cover may control heat more reliably. Wrap aluminum foil tightly over the bowl to form a taut surface. Using a paper clip or needle, punch holes in the foil to allow air flow. Try a circle of holes near the outer rim, then more holes spiraling inward. More holes means more heat on the tobacco, and therefore more smoke. Try starting with about 15 holes. If inhaling is difficult or you'd like more smoke, you can add more holes. Some people prefer 50100 holes. Make the holes small to avoid letting in flakes of ash. Attach the ash-collecting tray to the top of the hookah shaft. Fit the bowl over the top hole, making an airtight connection.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Stir the shisha. Break it apart. Sprinkle the shisha into the bowl. Cover the bowl. Finish assembling the hookah.
Article: This encourages you to play straight. You should aim to "rock the baby" with your elbows as you drive the ball, rather than slogging across the line. While the bowler runs at you, keep both eyes focused on the ball. Zoning in on the ball will allow you to better judge the ball's speed. Focus your eye on a seam of the ball. Your should complete the downswing slowly. A slow, steady downswing allows you to watch the ball longer. It will prevent you from playing the ball too early, thus enabling you to accelerate the bat through the ball as you hit it. Sloggers swing hard and early, meaning they hit the ball too early and too slowly, spooning catches in the air. With your knees bent and the weight on the balls of your feet, point your toes in the direction that you would like to hit the ball. You may choose to point your toe at the bowler as the batsmen of the "Golden Age" did. When your bat connects to the ball, transfer your body weight into the ball. As the ball hits the bat, and not before, uncoil your wrists. This will add additional punch to the ball. This does not mean hitting everything to leg, you can throw your wrists to the off side as if you're playing a hockey shot. When cutting or hooking the ball, make sure your arms are fully extended. A cramped shot leads to a catch. You will hit the majority of balls along the ground. Of course, if you are trying to drive straight for a six, or score a run, you will hit the ball in the air and hope it goes over the boundary.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Point your elbow at the bowler as he runs into bowl. Watch the ball. Begin the downswing of the bat. Point your toes and lean into the ball as you hit it. Uncoil your wrists. Extend your arms. Hit the ball.
Article: Just like sunlight, you want to provide your Boston fern with enough water, but not too much. Water it with lukewarm water so that the soil is completely damp but not soaked. During warm weather months, you'll need to water it more frequently. Make sure that the soil is never completely dry. In the wintertime, the fern is not in "growing season." You can be less vigilant about watering it, and it's actually good to let the soil become dry to the touch before watering again. As new growth appears, start watering the fern more often so that the soil is continuously damp. Boston ferns don't require much, but it is helpful to feed them every two months or so during the warmer time of the year. Purchase houseplant food at your local gardening supply store. Read the instructions on the packaging, and dilute it so that it is half as strong for your fern. During the winter months, you can skip these feedings. Fronds are the branch-like pieces that extend from the plant, covered in leaves. Older leaves may become discolored or lose their leaves, which isn't the most aesthetically pleasing. Use sharp, clean scissors to remove the fronds all the way at the base. This will allow new, healthy fronds to grow. The best time to prune your Boston fern is in the spring or summer, during growing season. Luckily, Boston ferns aren't typically a target for insects, but they can occasionally attract bugs. Don't use anything too harsh on your fern. Spray it with a mild insecticide or a natural insect repellant, and observe. Hopefully, this will be all you need to control any potential pests. Fortunately, there are things you can do to ensure that your boston ferns will live through the winter. Once the temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4.4 degrees Celsius), bring your plants inside. It's okay if they turn brown and shed; this is normal. Water them sparingly once per week and don't fertilize them at all during this time of year.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Keep the soil moist. Feed your ferns every couple of months. Trim discolored or leafless fronds. Protect your fern from insects. Keep your ferns in a dormant state during winter.