Fishing is partly a game of chance, but where you choose to fish can make a big difference in the outcome of your expedition. It's best to choose a quiet, secluded place far from other people (including other fishers). You'll also have to read the water to find the best places to cast, as fish tend to gravitate towards certain underwater environments. Look for boulders and submerged trees/debris. Fish tend to use these underwater areas for shelter/protection, as well as for feeding. Scan the water for any areas just downstream of rocks and trees. Fish commonly position themselves just past these refuge areas knowing that smaller fish and aquatic invertebrates will travel downstream. In the early morning hours you might be able to find fish in unusually shallow water as they search for food. Stand on the bank and scan the shallows for signs of fish. Try casting in undercut banks. If the water has worn out a channel under the bank of the river and created a hollowed-out space, it's a good bet that fish congregate there. Look for pools where the stream/river widens to a gut. The head of the pool (where the pool first widens) is usually a good fishing spot, as well as the slower current just downstream of the head. Avoid casting in the downstream end of a pool (called the tailout). That area tends to be more shallow and near rapids/riffles downstream, so most fish tend to avoid these areas. Almost as important as where you fish is when you fish. Fish tend to feed in the morning around sunrise, and again in the evening around sunset. However, if you're new to fishing, it may be easiest to learn how to fish in the midday sun. If you're just starting to learn how to fly fish, you may not know how to spot a fish on the bed or a river. You'll be able to see a fish's shadows most clearly during midday due to the position of the sun and the reduction of glare on the water. If you're just starting out, it may be best to practice spotting fish and casting during the midday sun. You can always stick around until fish become more active, or come back at a later time. Fish are incredibly sensitive to their environment. Any kind of noise can disturb fish, though other factors may also tip them off to your whereabouts. Fish can detect disturbances in the water. Some may even be able to detect disturbances along the shore. Never stomp your feet or make a lot of noise on the banks. Stay in the shade so you don't cast a shadow, or try crouching/squatting as you approach the water. If you intend to wade into the water, move very, very slowly. Walking in too rapidly will create ripples and send the sound through the water column.

Summary: Choose a good fly fishing location. Fish at the right time of day. Be quiet and cautious as you approach/enter the stream.

Although correction fluid does not erase ink, it can cover ink as if it were erased. Correction fluid, often known by the brand names "Liquid Paper" or "Wite-Out", is a dense liquid, often white in color, that is intended to cover accidental marks or errors on paper. Correction fluid is commonly applied with a small, sponge-tipped applicator. Correction fluid may become dry, clogged or flaky. Make sure that your correction fluid is the proper consistency before applying. Correction fluid will be wet after applying. Make sure you don't touch the wet fluid to any other surface. If you need to erase ink in vertical or horizontal strips, correction tape might be best to cover your errors. One side of the tape is meant to mimic the appearance of paper, the other is adhesive and sticks to your original paper. Correction tape is usually white, but other colors are available to match your paper. You'll likely be able to see correction tape on your original page if you look closely. If you scan or copy a paper with correction tape on it, the reader may not be able to detect the correction tape. If you want to erase or change a section of an ink drawing, sometimes the easiest solution is to cover it with a small piece of paper. Find a blank paper that matches your original paper, and cut out a section large enough to cover the mistake. Glue the new paper over the mistake. Redraw your artwork or lettering on the restored surface. Make sure that the edges of the paper are pressed against the surface, not curled up or bent from the original surface. The careful observer will be able to discern your correction in the original, depending on how closely they are looking at it. If you want to copy or scan it from the original, it may be more difficult to notice your correction. If you are working in pen and ink, and make a mistake or spill some ink, your first thought might be to erase the mistake. If none of the above methods are practical for your spilled ink, you might try camouflaging your error by adding elements to your artwork, such as background or color. Using opaque color over the ink can also hide the error. If you've accidentally drawn outside your original design, consider adding ornamentation to your design. If you do this will, it will look like you've intended to draw it this way from the beginning! Of course, this isn't erasing the ink, but it functions exactly the same as erasing an error would. If none of the above methods work for erasing ink from your page, lay a fresh page on top of your original. Trace the entire paper, leaving out the part you'd like to erase. Finish by making the correction on the new page. This method is intensive, but if you're working on a pen and ink artwork it may be the best way to go. Correcting your page this way results in a brand new page, as if the mistake never happened.

Summary: Apply correction fluid. Cover ink with correction tape. Cover ink spills or slips with paper. Camouflage your spilled ink. Trace the page and start again.

Begin by opening the rim or cantilever brake using the lever (if applicable). If the bike has disc brakes, remove the retaining or cotter pin or the clips or springs that hold the pads in place. Pull the pads out with needle-nose pliers and set them aside. To remove the front wheel, turn the bike over so it's sitting on the seat and handlebars, then flip the quick-release lever over to the "open" position. Then, simply lift the front wheel off of the bike. To remove the back wheel, crouch behind the bike. Hold the frame with your non-dominant hand and use your dominant hand to pull the derailer backward. Then lift the bike frame up and off of the rear wheel with your non-dominant hand and unhook the chain with your dominant hand. Let the air out of the old tire and use a tire lever to separate the tire from the wheel. Pull off both the tire and the inner tube. Reverse the process to install the tire and inner tube on the wheel that came with the conversion kit. Simply reverse the process you used to remove the wheel in order to reinstall it. Be sure to adjust the chain so it fits properly if you're replacing the back wheel. If the bike has rim or cantilever brakes, simply close them over the new wheel using the lever. If the bike has disc brakes, put the pads back in place and secure them using the clips, springs, or cotter or retaining pin. Adjust the brakes as needed, either by aligning the calipers (for mechanical brakes) or pumping the brake lever (for hydraulic brakes).
Summary: Remove the wheel you need to replace. Transfer the tire and inner tube from the old wheel to the new wheel. Put the wheel with the electric hub on your bike and connect the brake components.