Even if you believe the gun to be unloaded, you should still go through the unloading process to verify that no ammo is inside the shotgun as you measure the barrel. Point the gun in a safe direction and turn it over. Look for a lever that moves up and down at the receiver. This lever is known as an elevator. Flip the elevator up with your dominant hand while pushing back on the slide with your non-dominant hand. This should eject any round inside the magazine from the bottom of the receiver. Slide a dowel rod into the muzzle of the shotgun, pushing it into the barrel until it hits and stops at the breech face. Always use a dowel rod with a diameter that is smaller than the diameter of the gun barrel to prevent accidental damage to the gun barrel. Never force the dowel rod into the barrel. The point at which the cartridge and chamber meet is referred to as the breech face. The cartridge is not included in the barrel measurement, but the chamber will be. Use a pen to mark a line around the circumference of the dowel rod, just above the point where it comes out of the muzzle. Make the mark as close to the muzzle as possible for the most accurate measurement. You may need to keep the gun flat on your working surface as you do this. A pencil or marker could be used instead of a marker. Gently slide the dowel rod back out of the barrel. Set the dowel rod flat on your working surface. Carefully set the gun aside, as well. Make sure that the gun points away from you and from any other living being. Grab a measuring stick or tape measure and measure the distance between the mark you created and the end of the dowel rod previously inserted into the gun barrel. The distance between these two points is the length of your gun barrel.
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One-sentence summary -- Remove any ammo. Insert a dowel rod into the barrel. Make a mark. Slide the dowel rod out. Take a measurement.

To store ginger in a zipper storage bag, simply take the unpeeled ginger and place it in a zipper bag, taking care to push all of the air out of the bag. Place it in the veggie crisper in your fridge and have it stay crisp and fresh for several weeks. When compared to other methods, such as storing the ginger in a paper bag or wrapping it with a paper towel and then placing it in the bag, this method came up lasting the longest by quite a few weeks. If the ginger is already peeled, this method will work too, but it won't last as long as it would with the peel on. Store a chunk of unpeeled ginger by carefully wrapping it in a paper towel until there's no air holes or uncovered parts and then place it in a paper bag. Take care to push all of the air out of the paper bag before you seal it. Place the ginger in the vegetable crisper of your refrigerator and store it for a few weeks. If you're in a pinch for time, you can just place the ginger in a paper bag and put the bag in the vegetable crisper of your fridge. The ginger won't last as long as it will using the other methods, but this is a quick and easy trick to use if you know you'll be eating the ginger within a week. This is a solid method for quickly storing herbs such as dill or cilantro as well. Just place the freshly peeled ginger in a jar or sealable container and submerge them a spirit or acidic liquid. The most commonly used liquids are: vodka, dry sherry, sake, rice wine, rice vinegar, and fresh lime juice. Vodka and sherry are the most popularly used spirits, and vodka has been shown to have the longest-lasting results while altering the flavor of the ginger the least. Though this is a solid storage method, be aware that the liquid will change the flavor of the ginger a bit -- or a lot.
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One-sentence summary -- Store ginger in a zipper storage bag. Store ginger in a paper towel and paper bag. Store ginger in a paper bag. Store freshly peeled ginger submerged in spirits.

You will want to fix your safe between studs to allow it to be recessed inside your wall and thus less noticeable. Use a stud finder to locate the studs behind the wall by running the stud finder across your wall. The tool will have an indicator to show when it has found a stud. Stud finders can be purchased from your local hardware store. If you don't have a stud finder you can knock on the wall and listen for a hollow or solid sound. If the sound is hollow then the location is probably between studs; if it sounds solid then there is likely a stud in this location. Knock a nail into the wall. As you hammer you will be able to feel if you hit a stud by the way the nail goes into the wall. These holes will be covered once you have installed your wall safe. Use a pencil to mark the locations of the studs on the wall. This will help orient your lines when you cut out the section of the wall. After you've found a good safe and a place to install it between studs, you are ready to cut into your wall. Cut out a small square of space big enough for your hand to fit through. If you find wires you need to be extra careful to go around them or reroute them. If you find plumbing in the way you may need to find a new location. If the wall is clear, you are ready to cut out a space for your safe. If something is in the way and you are not confident in your ability to safely move or go around it, the best option is to find a new section of wall. Mark the four corners of your square hole using a pencil. Use a level to make level lines between the four corners. It is essential that the top and bottom are parallel with the ground while the sides are parallel with your studs. The hole should be close enough to a stud so that you can attach it to your safe later. Make sure to measure and level correctly so that you don't end up with an uneven or wrongly sized hole. Use your drywall saw to cut along the marked lines. Start with the bottom edge of the opening and then cut the sides. You should cut the top line last to make sure the piece does not fall out beforehand, creating an uneven line. Put your safe into the hole, remembering to keep it help up with your hand. The door is the heaviest part of the safe due to the locking mechanism so be careful to hold up the corner so that it doesn't fall out on you. Drill holes into the sides that match with the holes on the interior of your safe. Drill in each screw and then tighten them firmly. This is an important step that prevents burglars from simply cutting your safe out of the wall and walking away with the whole thing. Place the shelves inside the safe in their desired locations, making sure you line them up correctly. Some shelves will have cutouts to make space for the door locking mechanism and door hinges; make sure these cutouts are in the correct locations.
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One-sentence summary --
Locate your studs. Mark your studs. Cut out a small square of space using a drywall saw. Reach into the space with your hand to feel for electrical wiring or plumbing. Measure the wall to mark the size hole needing to be cut for the safe. Cut along the marks to create a hole in the wall. Slide your safe into the hole. Fix the safe to the studs by drilling through the holes in the sides of the safe. Insert the shelves.