Write an article based on this "Schedule regular veterinary exams. Make sure that your horse has room to lay down in her stall. Socialize your horse. Protect your horse from extreme weather conditions. Be aware of plants that are hazardous to horses."
article: Schedule regular physical and dental exams with your veterinarian to make sure that your horse is healthy and up to date on her vaccinations. Common vaccinations include tetanus, eastern and western equine encephalomyelitis, equine influenza, rhino pneumonitis (equine herpes), and rabies. Your horse will also need to be dewormed regularly. Horse teeth continue to grow as they age. Eating grass and hay helps to grind down your horse's teeth, but it is still important to have a dentist check for any signs of rotting or other dental problems that may be causing your horse discomfort. Horses can sleep standing up, but they need to lay down to get deep sleep. Keep your horse's stall clean so that she will be able to lay down without getting filthy. It is important for horses to be with other horses. Make sure that your horse has a companion or two that she can interact with on a regular basis. If possible, let your horses see each other in their stalls. It is important to make sure that your horses are warm enough in the winter, but cold does not bother horses as much as the heat. Horses cannot get rid of excess heat in their bodies except by sweating, so use extreme precaution in the summer. Do not make your horse do anything strenuous in hot weather. If you think that your horse may have been poisoned by something she ate, call your veterinarian or ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center's 24-hour hotline at (888) 426-4435 right away. There are several species of plants and one species of beetle that can poison your horse if she ingests one of them. Potential hazards to your horse include: Wilted red maple leaves Black walnut Oak leaves Taxes species (yew, Japanese yew, American yew, English yew, western yew, oleander and rose laurel) Rhododendron and azalea White snakeroot, richweed, white sanicle, jimmy weed, rayless goldenrod, burrow weed Yellow star thistle, St. Barnaby's thistle, Russian knapweed Blister beetles (sometimes found in alfalfa hay, especially in the Midwest and Southwest) Ragworth/Ragweed

Write an article based on this "Budget for your safe. Figure out the correct size. with fire resistance. Decide which access control features you would like. Check theft resistance ratings. Decide if you want water resistance. Buy your safe from a store that specializes in safes. Find the right location."
article: Wall safes cost between $50-$350 on average but some will be even higher priced. For a decent safe you can budget between $150-300 but the actual price will depend on the features and size you want. Different security features and fireproofing abilities can increase the cost of your chosen safe. Most homes are built from two-by-fours (44 x 94mm) spaced 16 inches (40.5 cm) apart. This means that the typical safe will have to fit in this space. Look for a wall safe with a width of less than 16 inches (40.5 cm) and depth of 3.5 inches (9 cm). You can then chose the height that you prefer in which to fit your belongings. Check the size of your walls if you feel they do not agree with these average measurements by finding the studs in your walls. h fire resistance. Fire resistant safes will protect your valuables and papers in the event of a fire. Both Underwriters Laboratories (UL) and Intertek (ETL) are independent organizations that rate wall safes according to fire resistance. If you want a fire resistant wall safe choose one that will protect your goods for at least 30 minutes because most fires move through a room in about 20 minutes. UL and Intertek rate wall safes according to the type of material they will protect and the length of time they will provide protection. Look on the safe itself or the packaging for these ratings. Choose the wall safe with a fire protection rating according to what you would like to protect. Papers should not get hotter than 350 degrees F (176 degrees C), old tape recordings or 35mm slides no hotter than 150 degrees F (65 degrees C) and CDs/DVDs no hotter than 125 degrees F (52 degrees C). In Europe the Eurograde system evaluates wall safes. Access control features may include a combination, a key, both a key and pin code or biometric data such as a fingerprint. All access methods are fairly effective and depend on the user to maintain their effectiveness. If you are using a wall safe as a gun safe then it might be preferable to choose biometric access to prevent a key or code from falling into the hands of children. Some but not all wall safes have been tested for burglary resistance. Again check for the UL label. A safe rated B4 then it would be able to withstand an attack of at least 15 minutes using common tools. Most burglaries take around 8-12 minutes so a wall safe with this rating would be safe during this time. Ratings of B1, B2 or B3 mean the safe provides very little security and resistance to tools. A B5 rating means the safe can withstand 30 minutes of a typical attack with common tools while a B6 rating means the safe can withstand 30 minutes of attack with common tools, torches and carbide-tipped tools. Water resistance ratings are also performed by Intertek and will be marked "verified" if they meet criteria. These safes would protect valuables in case of a flood or broken water line. Safes can be purchased from many hardware stores as well as online marketplaces. Buying a wall safe from a shop that specializes in safes can give you the opportunity to speak to an expert regarding the options that would work best for you. Choose a location that is accessible so that you can use the safe effectively. Additionally the safe should be out of the regular traffic pattern of the house such as a closet, the laundry room, behind a heavy piece of furniture, behind a bookcase filled with books or in a child's room. This makes the wall safe less noticeable and obvious to potential intruders. The location will also depend on the studs in your wall. Make sure you choose a location which will be able to make use of the space between studs.

Write an article based on this "Stop brushing or combing your hair. Wash your hair 1-2 times a week. Keep your hair dry. Separate any dreads that are trying to join together into a larger dread. Wait up to 2 years for mature dreads to form."
article:
Your hair will form knots and start to cling together. Your hair will naturally start to separate into sections within a few days and will form distinctive sections within a couple of weeks. Be patient. This stage can be short or take longer, depending on what your hair's natural texture is. The coarser your hair is, the faster dreads will form. If you have very straight hair, as with most Asian hair textures and some Caucasian hair textures, you may need to help dreads form by backcombing, adding wax, or crocheting dreads. Clean hair dreads best, but washing your hair too often can prevent it from dreading. At most, wash your hair every 2 days. After about a year into the dreading process, you will only need to wash once a week. Try looking for a dread-friendly shampoo. These shampoos leave less residue and help your hair knot. If you have greasy or oily hair, it won't be able to knot and form dreads. Dry your hair after showering with a microfiber towel by squeezing out extra moisture and then wrapping your dreads. You can also use a hairdryer on a cool setting to speed up the process. If you have naturally greasy hair, you may need to wash it more often to keep your hair as dry as possible. Blow dryers can damage your dreads. It is best to air dry them, but you can use a blow dryer on cool, constantly moving it around between sections. Do this by holding both sections and slowly pulling them apart up starting from the bottom and going up toward the scalp. Or, to separate 2 dreads more permanently, run your finger along the scalp along a section line, then hook your finger underneath the hair where it is crossing over into another section. Pull from the scalp away from the head. Any section larger than 1 inch (2.5cm) around will produce 'Congos' or 'fat dreads'. The area of the section where your hair meets the scalp will be the thickness of your mature dreadlocks. Short hair around 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15cm) can take as little as a year to lock up, while hair longer than shoulder length can take 2 years or more. Mature dreadlocks are tightly knotted and you can't pull them apart with your fingers. You will also notice that they don't change in shape or appearance anymore. You will need patience, but the end result will be the healthiest dreadlocks possible. There are no definite timelines for how long hair takes to lock. Everyone's hair is different and will mature at its own rate. Longer hair usually takes more time to mature, because it needs to shrink and kink more for dreads to lock up. Coarse and curly hair locks quicker than fine, straight hair.