Q: Depending on the age of the house you're working in, the drywall will either be nailed or screwed into the studs. To remove drywall that's nailed in, you'll simply start prying up the sections of drywall, piece by piece. If, on the other hand, the drywall is screwed in, you might need to take a bit more time to remove the screws before you start prying it loose. Screws that are bedded in joint compound can be very difficult to locate and remove. Drywall screws can sometimes be removed with a Philips-head screwdriver, but depending on the condition of the wall, this may be more hassle than it's worth. Look at the screws and the condition of the drywall itself. If they're easy to remove, go ahead and remove them. It'll mean less elbow grease down the road. If the drywall is wet, or if the screws are mangled, rusted, or otherwise difficult to remove, go ahead and start prying the drywall loose as if they were simply nailed in. Standard drywall installation is done using 4x8 ft panels. Those are usually mounted horizontally with staggered joints, with two sections used to cover a standard 8 feet (2.4m). section of wall. These will be fastened into the vertical wooden studs, centered at 16 or 24 inch (40.6 or 61.0cm) intervals. For unsoiled drywall, use a pry bar to begin prying the bottom of the panel away from these studs, allowing removal of the entire sheet. Pushing the short end of the flat bar up under the bottom of the panel allows for using the long end as a lever, making the initial prying easy. Identify a section of wall roughly 2 feet (0.6m) above the ground and 8 inches (20.3cm) from the end of the wall, making note to avoid electrical outlets. Using a hammer claw, make a foot long vertical series of holes. Basically, what you want to do is open up some space to grab hold of the drywall and pull it loose. It's not rocket-science: knock some holes in at the side and give yourself something to hang onto. Grab at the upper and lower holes you've cut and pull a large chunk of drywall off the nails on the nearby stud. Keep moving along the wall, pulling chunks loose as you go. When the drywall breaks on a stud, make another vertical hole in adjacent gap and continue removing the drywall by hand. For water-damaged drywall, a good strategy is to open a hole at the midpoint of the 14.5 inch (36.8cm) space between studs. Using a sledge or a battering ram of some kind can usually be effective in this circumstance. If the water-damage extends to the upper panel, the same action will usually cleanly separate the wall from the ceiling. Use the flatbar to pry loose any nails remaining on the studs, or take care to unscrew the screws remaining in the wood. A pry bar or a hammer claw should be fine for the job.
A: Look for drywall screws. Start at the bottom of undamaged drywall. Continue prying the side of the section loose. Pull a section loose. Start in the center of water-damaged drywall. Remove the drywall nails left on the studs.

Article: Put on your yellow glasses and shine your UV light all over your engine. Look for the glowing trace dye and follow it to find out where it's leaking from. Get underneath your vehicle to look up into the engine for any of the trace dye leaking down that you can follow to the source of the leak. Knowing exactly where the oil is leaking from will make it easier for mechanics to repair it. Be sure to check around the gaskets on top of your engine and the oil pan on your undercarriage, which are where leaks commonly occur. It's possible that there are multiple leaks, so be sure to look all around your engine as well as beneath your vehicle to check for leaks in the undercarriage.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Look for the trace dye with your UV light to identify find the leak.

Problem: Article: If you switch back and forth between Desktop and Modern (the UI that Windows 8 uses), you may want to pin your most used Modern apps to your Desktop's taskbar. This will let you easily open them while in Desktop mode. You can pin any of your Live Tiles, or move down to the All Apps screen and pin any of the apps listed. This will add a shortcut to the app on your Desktop taskbar. This is especially useful if you want to get rid of the Store button that appears on the taskbar after updating to 8.1.
Summary: Open the Start screen. Right-click on the app you want to pin. Select "Pin to taskbar". Right-click on pinned apps and select "Unpin this program from the taskbar" to remove it.

Q: Now that you have captured your first bird, you are officially a falconer. Follow your sponsor's instructions carefully and be patient it will usually take about six weeks to train your bird for hunting. See the linked article for more information. In addition, the 1997 issue of Hawk Chalk (the official newsletter magazine of NAFA) has a great article on using a technique called Operant Conditioning to train raptors. You can find it here. As you move through the ranks of falconry, you'll enjoy greater freedom and privileges than you did as an apprentice. See below for a brief run-down of each classification as specified for Washington State (most jurisdictions will be similar): Apprentice Falconer Only allowed to have one bird at a time May take only an American Kestrel or Red-tailed hawk from the wild (Goshawks allowed in Alaska). Expected to train extensively with sponsor. General Falconer May have up to three wild-caught birds at once. Additional variety of birds available for capture (see state bill WAC 232-30-152 for more information.) May sponsor an apprentice after two years at the General level. Master Falconer Must demonstrate "at least five years experience as a General Falconer and show expertise in successful hunting and care of their birds, and experience with more than one species of raptor." May have up to five wild-caught birds at once. May have an unlimited number of captive-bred birds for falconry purposes. Most falconers join NAFA, the North American Falconers Association, as apprentices. Membership in NAFA carries many perks, including access to falconry-related news, training resources, discussion groups, and much more. NAFA requires all applicants to fill out a simple application form (available for online submission and printing here). Membership dues must be paid when submitting your application and once per year after that North American Membership dues are $45.00 per year, while Foreign Membership dues are $65.00 per year. In addition, you will also want to plan on joining your state or province's falconry association (where applicable.) For example, falconers in Washington State should join the Washington Falconers Association.
A:
Start training your bird. Progress to General Falconer (and eventually Master Falconer). Join NAFA.