Q: It's not that hard, and it's not like many people say it is. Editing is perfecting. Perfect your novel. Fix grammar and typing mistakes, root for and fix plot holes, change anything necessary, and, unnecessary, and make it as perfect as possible. Stick to one or two revisions only, and you'll save years of time. Just be ruthless when you do it. Leave it alone for a week or so. Don't forget to go back to it, after a week, though. The first step to editing is reading through your novel. Print it out, and grab your tools (a pencil, a highlighter, and something to look stuff up on). Read it over, however many times you want. Highlight anything you think you need to change, make little notes with your pencil on the margin, and get your novel ready to edit on the computer. Go to your computer. With your novel beside you, read over your novel, changing and perfecting. Go through it several times. Always take criticism kindly. It's only to help you. Email your work to friends and family, print it out and send them copies, and have them give you critiques. You can publish samples of it on author sites for help, too. Once you're done getting feedback, write all your notes down. Make any further changes you think are necessary, and perfect it more. Search up book editors online that will take copies of novel. When you've found a suitable editor, send it to them. Take their feedback, and fix anything. When they say it's good, now it's time for a publisher.
A: Edit the work. Get feedback. Go back to your novel, on the computer. Start looking for editors.

Q: If you need an even arc over several heat of tubing as opposed to one bend, then a tube roller is going to produce much better results. You can find a tube roller at most hardware stores, and they're actually going to be cheaper than pneumatic bending devices. As with tube benders, your tube roller may come with a set of dies, so you can fit the exact size of tube you need to roll without the risk of flattening it. A tube roller works by placing increased force on a piece of tubing, then rolling it back and forth over the force to create an even bend. Begin by placing the tube into the roller with the appropriately sized die holding it in place. With a tube roller, you will start at one end rather than in the middle. Most tube rollers will have a hex head bit, so you can use a regular wrench to increase the force in the vice. For basic tube roller models, the device will simply have a large wheel attached that your turn to feed the tube through and under the applied force. Turning the wheel will require a bit of strength, especially as you increase the force on the tube in later passes. Once you have passed the tube from one end to the other down the roller, you should increase the force in the vice by tightening the rod by approximately another quarter of a turn. The wheel on the roller allows you to turn either direction, so with more pressure on the tube, you'll roller it back through in the opposite direction. Continue tightening the roller by a quarter turn after each pass through the device and rolling it again. After several passes, you'll notice the nice, even arc forming on the tube. Continue rolling until you have the angle you need. If you have a template for the exact angle you need, you can hold it again the angle in the tube after each pass until you've achieved your desired result.
A: Purchase a tube roller. Place the tubing into the roller. Crank the vice on the roller until it's tight. Manually roll the piece through the roller. Increase the force on the tube. Roll the tube back in the opposite direction. Repeat until you reach the desired angle.

Q: Differences in weather patterns and climate in your area will test the strength and durability of these systems, and this will be shown through your stock. Little things like needing an extra fence post here and there, putting in an extra grounding rod, or a fixing a hole in a water trough or even one of the man-made ponds or dugouts not having enough water than normal can be the kind of changes that may improve or challenge your system.
A: Observe how fences are holding up, as well as the watering systems.

Q: Although your shave won't be as close as a razor shave, it will give you a bald result with less friction. This means you're less likely to experience irritation and redness post-shave. If you'd like a little bit of hair left, you can use a 1 guard. You may want to lay down newspapers before you shave your head to collect the excess hair. Normally, you'd shave your hair in the direction of the grain. However, this isn't necessary with clipping because you won't get as close of a shave as with a razor. Additionally, clipping hair with the grain is really difficult, as it's hard to clip the hair if you're moving the clippers over the top of your hair. This is usually level with the middle of your ear. Place your clippers against your skin and move them upwards toward the crown of your head. Make several passes until you reach the area behind your ear. If you feel more comfortable starting on a different section of your head, that's okay. Do what's easiest for you. Position the clippers at the top of your forehead. Then, slowly glide them back toward the crown of your head. Stop shaving when you reach the back of your crown. Place your clippers at the nape of your neck. Next, slowly bring the razor up toward your crown. Continue working your way across the back of your hair until you've shaved your entire head.
A:
Remove the guard from your clippers for the closest possible shave. Clip your hair in the opposite direction of your hair growth. Start at the sides of your head where your sideburns begin. Move from top to bottom when shaving the top of your head. Shave from bottom to top when finishing up the back.