You'll want to keep the soil moist but not waterlogged. Once the cherry develops a taproot, test the soil to a depth of 3 inches (7.5 cm) and water whenever this feels dry. Water in a slow trickle until the soil is wet to the depth of the root. This won't take long at first, but remember to adapt as the cherry grows to a proper tree. . Once the plants have grown to about 6 in (15 cm), or large enough for their roots to compete or hit the base of a pot, give them some extra space. Either thin out the shortest sprouts or transfer them further apart. Each tree should have 20 ft (6m) of space. Keep in mind that transplanting is best done when trees are dormant, which is during the winter. Transplanting trees when they are actively growing will stress the trees and could kill them. Keep in mind that cherries can grow 2550 ft (7.615.2 m) tall, depending on variety. With pruning, you can keep this to 15 ft (4.6 m) or less. Top dress the trees with well-rotted compost every year in early spring. Start this the year after they sprout, since mulch can block seeds from breaking through. Fertilizer is best avoided with young trees, since it's easy to burn them. The compost should give plenty of nutrients. The most difficult part of growing cherry trees is their susceptibility to pests and disease. Take these steps to protect them once they grow into proper trees: Surround young trees with a cylinder of wire fencing to protect against deer. Do this as soon as the trees start to come up. Once a month, look for holes in the trunk leaking ooze or sawdust-like frass. Poke a needle into these holes to kill insects. In spring, wrap trunks with mosquito netting to stop boring insects from laying eggs. In late fall, sink a hardware cloth barrier 2 inches (5cm) down into the soil on all sides to protect against rodents. This barrier should be high enough to protect against a rodent standing on expected snowfall. In early fall, whitewash the south side of the tree with white, nontoxic latex paint, diluted with water to a thin consistency. The trees are susceptible to sun damage during this time of year. Whitewash the north side instead if you are in the Southern Hemisphere. . Cherry trees aren't too difficult to prune, but a little will go a long way toward fruit production and aesthetics. Generally speaking, sour cherries just need a little pruning to keep the branches symmetric. For sweet cherries, prune back the central leader to promote lateral growth instead. . Left alone, your cherry tree will often take five or more years to bear fruit, if it can manage it at all. Grafting is a little risky with seed-grown trees, since you don't know the variety, but your local nursery may be able to recommend a fruiting species. You can graft this onto a two-year old tree and have fruit by the third or fourth year if the graft takes. . The beautiful flowers alone are reason to grow cherry trees. If you'd like to see them replaced with fruit, though, they'll need to be pollinated. For most sweet cherries, this means you'll need a second variety of sweet cherry nearby, blooming at the same time. Honeybees are the most common pollinator for cherries. If you're using pesticides, make sure they don't affect this important species. . No one has ever grown cherries without giving birds a share. If you're lucky enough to see fruits starting to form, set up your defenses before they finish ripening. There are several ways to distract or scare off the birds, including planting mulberries (which they find even tastier) and hanging shiny objects from the cherry branches. Commercial growers will also drape netting over their trees to keep birds and other pests away from the fruit.

Summary:
Keep the soil slightly moist. Transplant once established Mulch annually. Protect from pests. Protect from strong winter sun. Prune the cherry tree as it grows Consider grafting Pollinate the blossoms Fend off birds