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If you have a steady hand, you can outline the crown and letters, and then fill them in using paint. Here's a list of what you will need: Rectangular sheet of paper Pencil Eraser Ruler Acrylic paint Paintbrush Paper plate or palette You can use poster or construction paper. If you want a poster that has a pattern on it, then use scrapbooking paper. You can find it in the scrapbooking section of an arts and crafts store. If you choose to use scrapbooking paper, you will have to cut it down to make it a rectangle. Use a long ruler and a pencil to lightly sketch lines across the poster where you want the crown and letters to go. This will help you keep everything even and straight. Try to make it as centered as possible. The crown should be about one third of the width of the paper. Try not to press too hard with the pencil, and don't worry about making it too clean. You will be erasing the pencil later. If necessary, use a ruler to help you make the lines straight. Try not to make the lines too dark, or you won't be able to erase them fully. If the paint is very thick, you might get some visible brush strokes. Consider adding a few drops of water to it and mixing it. It should have the consistency of cream. If you are left-handed, start painting from the right side of the poster. If you are right-handed, start painting from the left. A flat-tipped brush will be the best for the letters, as it will give you the crispest lines. A pointy, round-tipped brush will be the best for getting into corners and creating details. Try to use a synthetic/taklon or sable hair brush. Camel hair will be too soft, and a boar bristle brush will be too stiff. Try to paint in many, but thin layers. This will help reduce brush strokes. If you apply the paint too thickly, you'll be more likely to get brush strokes. It will take about 20 to 30 minutes for most types of acrylic paint, but you might want to check the label on the bottle just to be sure. Make sure that the paint is completely dry first, then gently erase any visible pencil marks.

summary: Gather your supplies. Find a rectangular piece of paper. Draw your guidelines. Use a pencil to sketch out the crown near the top of the poster. Use a pencil to sketch out the letters. Pour the paint out onto a palette. Start painting in the letters and crown. Wait for the paint to dry. Erase the pencil marks.

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If you've seen a moth or two fluttering around but aren't sure if you have an all-out infestation, look for these signs: Tiny holes in your sweaters or other items of clothing. If you see holes in one sweater, you'll probably find more. Check all of your clothes made with wool, feathers, fur, and silk. Clothing that looks dusty or discolored, or has a musty smell. Webbing in corners of the closet or on clothing. To take care of the immediate problem of moths in your closet, trap them with pheromone moth traps, which attract and kill them with a sticky substance that they can't escape once they touch. You can make your own moth traps with flypaper and fish oil, which attracts moths. Dab a bit on some flypaper and hang it in your closet. Traps designed to catch mice are also effective for catching moths. In particular, look for zapper style traps with infrared sensors, as these will sense the moth approaching and zap it when it nears the bait. It's important to wash every item of clothing to get rid of eggs the moths may have laid. Wash the items according to their care instructions. If possible, put them through a hot dryer. Items that cannot be dried on high heat can be placed in the freezer for a few days to kill any eggs. Wash linens, towels, and any other cloth items stored in your closet. Remove suitcases, bags and other containers, and wash these as well. Now that everything has been removed from your closet, it's time to scour it from top to bottom to get rid of moth eggs that might still be lurking there. Use soapy water or a vinegar and water solution to clean the closet floor and walls. Dip a sponge scrubber into the solution and scrub the walls to scratch off all the eggs. Clean especially well in cracks and crevices. Vacuum well. Use a high-powered vacuum to clean the carpet in your closet. While you're at it, vacuum the bedroom area, too, since moths may have laid eggs there.

summary: Know the signs. Set out moth traps. Wash your clothes. Clean the closet.

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If you want to join multiple pieces of silver together, soldering is typically the easiest home method. It still requires quite a bit of preparation, and the following materials: Use a "medium" or "hard" silver solder made from silver alloy, not standard solder. Avoid solder containing cadmium unless you have a respirator. A small oxy-acetylene or butane torch, preferably with a flat "chisel tip." Any brazing or soldering flux labeled as suitable for silver. Copper tongs and tweezers (of any metal) for handling the silver. A "pickle" solution for soldering, heated according to label instructions before you begin. You'll need a well-ventilated room and a heat-resistant work table, plus a heat brick to work on. Goggles are essential for detail work, to protect yourself from spatter during close inspection. Gloves, a denim or leather apron and tight-fitting, non-synthetic clothing are good additional precautions. You'll need a container of water anyway to rinse the jewelry, but a fire extinguisher doesn't hurt if you are working in a room with flammable materials. If the silver is greasy or has been heavily handled, rub on a degreasing solution. Dip in the pickle solution if the silver is black from oxidization. Once clean, brush the flux onto the silver, over the areas to be joined. Powdered flux must be mixed into a paste or liquid form first. Check the instructions for details. . If you have never soldered anything before, this in-depth guide may help. Alternatively, you can follow these quick steps: Position the objects carefully on the heat brick, then apply a chip of solder (or a dab of solder paste) with tweezers. Heat from about 4 inches (10 cm) away, focusing on the thicker piece of silver. Do not heat solder directly. Hold thin pieces of silver with tweezers to prevent melting. Once the solder has melted along the gap between the pieces, turn off the heat and wait a minute or two for the solder to solidify. Use your copper tongs to dip the silver first into the water bath, then into the pickle solution to remove oxidization created during soldering. Rinse a final time in water, then pat dry. Avoid putting the pickle in contact with skin and clothes, as it can be corrosive. Non-copper tongs may react with the pickle, corroding the metal. If you prefer the look of "aged" silver, you can skip the pickle. These are best added to jewelry with a two-part epoxy glue. Solder a silver "bezel cup" to the jewelry, sand the walls down if necessary with coarse sandpaper, then glue in the stone and let dry as instructed by the epoxy label.
summary: Gather materials. Set up a safe work area. Clean and apply flux. Solder the silver Rinse, pickle, and rinse again. Add gemstone or glass (optional).