In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You'll be working from the back of the frame as you take it apart. Work on a clean flat surface so you don't damage the glass on the front. If the back of your wooden frame isn't covered with paper, you can skip this step. Otherwise, cut along the inside edges of the frame with the utility knife and then pull the cut-out paper off the back of the frame. Now that the paper backing is off, you should see a piece of cardboard that's held in place by small nails or staples. You need to pull them all out with the pliers so you can take the cardboard out of the frame. If you're having trouble getting staples out with pliers, try a staple remover. Take out the piece of cardboard, the print, and the glass. Set them somewhere safe so you can reuse them later.
Summary: Flip your frame over so it's face-down. Cut off the paper backing using a utility knife. Pull out the nails or staples with pliers. Lift the contents of the frame out of the frame.

If you do stain a pair of trousers, soak and then rub with a mixture of cold water and salt. Rub the area, rinse, leave it to dry and repeat. Also washing out the stain with hydrogen peroxide will work; make sure you test it out first to ensure it will not bleach or discolor your clothing. It will have faded hopefully, then fold them up or put them in the wash. Or pour something down it and rub it and say you've spilled something down your bottoms!
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One-sentence summary -- Soak stains in cold water.

Q: You may have to build up your track a little on curves, as these will be likely places your train can derail. S-curves especially, if you have them, can be tricky. Make sure you have enough clearance in your curves to fit your longest train cars. Cork or foam model train roadbed should be used under tracks and can be bought at hobby or hardware stores. If you're just starting out modeling, it can be difficult to know if you have enough clearance for long cars. Before installing your track, use your hands to guide your train around curves to see if it fits. Track installation may vary, but in many cases, you'll need to solder rail joints to connect them. Avoid soldering turnouts, where a train transfers from one line of track to another. These often need to be replaced. Use a metal file to smooth bumps or ridges on your track that may cause a wheel to jump the tracks or get stuck. Attach feeder wires as indicated by your model set. In most cases, feeder wires will connect to the bottom or outside of your track rails at 3-foot (.91 m) intervals. A beginner set will likely come with a power converter, but more advanced sets may requires you to choose between DC (Direct Current) and DCC (Digital Command Control) power. Starter model train sets will likely come with a control panel, but DIY models may require you to build one. Search online for tutorials on how to wire one that is simple and organized. This includes almost all surface features, like trees, rocks, tunnels bushes, roads, bridges, houses, and so on. Use glue to attach scenery pieces after the terrain is formed. Use paint to represent flat surface features, like rivers and roads. Keep perspective in mind when making your scenery. For example, large trees should go in the foreground and small ones in the background to create the illusion of distance. Dioramas are a 3D representation of a scene, like a house. These are great additions and can add a sense of realism to your model. You can buy scenery props at most hobby shops and craft stores. There are also plenty of resources online that illustrate how to make your own.
A: Lay the track. Wire your track. Add the scenery.

Article: Use a long-handled shovel to start digging where you want your well to go. Start in the center by pointing the head of your shovel into the well. Use the heel of your shoe to punch the shovel into the ground. Lift the dislodged soil and toss it on to a tarp or in a wheelbarrow so that you can dispose of it or reuse it later to fill your ditch. Don't do this if it has rained within the past 2 days. Try to dig the walls of your well straight down. This can be kind of tough though and it's alright if the vertical sides angle down towards the center a little. Make your ditch roughly 12in (30cm) deep and 6in (15cm) wide. Use your shovel to dig in a straight line starting at the downspout. If there isn't a decline running from your downspout to the well, dig slightly deeper as you work your way toward the well. A small ditch designed to redirect water is called a swale. Use a spirit level with hash marks for measuring angles and check the air bubble every 12 inches (30cm) along your drain line. If you need to deepen your ditch, simply dig more soil out.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Dig a 4 by 4ft (1.2 by 1.2m) hole where you want the dry well. Dig a ditch running from your downspout to the well. Ensure that your ditch declines 14in (0.64cm) for every 12in (30cm).

Problem: Article: Add one de-seeded and chopped fresh red or green chilli (to taste) and 2 tablespoons of freshly chopped coriander / cilantro. This butter is delicious on baked or grilled corn on the cob. You may alternatively substitute coriander with chives or 1 minced fresh ginger.
Summary:
Mix butter with the freshly grated zest of one lime.