Items Selected: Arancini - Risotto, Peas, Smoked Mozzarella di Bufala, Cured Meats over Tomato Sauce and Parmigiano Margherita DOC - Tomato, Mozzarella di Bufala, Parmigiano, Basil, Olio Diavola - Tomato, Red Bell Peppers, Spicy Salami, Crushed Red Pepper, Garlic, Mozzarella, Basil, Olio Rafael - Salame, Garlic, Roasted Onions, Mozzarella, Oregano, Red Pepper Flakes, Basil, Olio Pizza Carbonara - Tomatoes, Pacetta, Egg, Cracked Pepper, Parmigiano, Mozzarella, Basil, Olio Settebello - Tomatoes, Pancetta, Sausage, Mushrooms, Toasted Pine Nuts, Mozzarella, Basil, Olio Zeppole - Donuts Filled with Nutella and Coated in Sugar Caramel Budino - House made Caramel Pudding, Salted Caramel Sauce, Whipped Cream, House Made Almond Orange Cookie Bella Mela - Sweetened Vanilla Mascarpone over Baked Pizza Bread topped with Fresh Cinnamon Apples, Caramel Sauce, Powdered sugar, Sliced Almonds S'mores Calzone More and more well versed with "VPN-Style" and the questionable certification process involved as time goes on I have come to realize that this decidedly un-American pizza is an acquired taste as even some of my most well-traveled and trusted friends are not particularly fond of the pools of mozzarella and often liquid center but with that in mind it was a pleasure to meet with four like-minded pizza pals on Saturday at the only 'authentic' VPN pizzeria in Las Vegas, the newest outpost of SLC's Settebello. Featuring all the standards of a certified parlor, inclusive of a hand pressed di Sorrento brick oven, all wood firing, and imported flour worked by hand it was perhaps with a bit of gluttony that a the decision was made to sample four of the restaurant's four signature pies plus the weekly special but in the end each and every one was an individually shaped, lightly charred, bubbly and balanced success. Truly a space where the concept of quality ingredients and time honored techniques yield a superior product it was with two golden, creamy arancini that the meal began and then progressing through pizza both red and white, simple and complex it was perhaps most telling that the best slices of the day belonged to the Margherita DOC with a the Buffala Mozz briny funk finding harmony in the hand crushed tomatoes yet not to be outdone the eponymous Settebello also shined as the novel pine nuts and mushrooms added an earthen undertone to the pairing of cured meats. Truly a place where not a single savory was anything less than excellent it was without hesitation that desserts were selected and again choosing broadly the rewards were myriad; a creamy budino on par with DOCG's for best in town a clear favorite amongst many while the Bella Mela proved just as well conceptualized as the pizzas though ever more subtle - a characteristic ignored by both the Calzone and Zeppole; the first harkening a campfire's smoke and the second soft and supple but both filled to bursting chocolate decadence and all the better for it.
Choose: was this review given positively or negatively?

(i) negative
(ii) positive
(ii)