INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Natural sea sponges can work like disposable tampons. Clean sponges intended for this purpose are sold through various health supply stores. Cut the sponge to size and then insert like a tampon. Rinse the sponge daily. This solution is slightly messier than using a menstrual cup but is an all-natural, reusable product. Like menstrual cups, sea sponges are safe to use while sleeping. These are typically sold as "moon pads" and are especially good for nighttime use. Reusable pads are easily washed, dried, and reworn, eliminating waste on the trail, although you will need to use a zippered plastic bag or other solution to store soiled pads between washes. They also take up space in a pack, so consider your weight and space requirements carefully if you're planning to use reusable pads on a backpacking excursion. This advice applies to both reusable and disposable products, but hygiene becomes especially significant when you are washing and reusing the same equipment multiple times. Washing before you use a product is just as important as cleaning your hands afterward. Doing so keeps bacteria away from this sensitive region of your body. Urinary tract infections and yeast infections are never fun, but they're especially important to avoid when you're out camping and away from medical help.

SUMMARY: Purchase a sea sponge. Invest in reusable pads made from thick flannel. Ensure your hands are clean before and after using any product.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: To wash a white cotton or polyester hat, you will need one cup of hydrogen peroxide, one tablespoon of dish liquid, and one scoop of a product like Oxi Clean White Revive. For a white wool hat, you will need a detergent specially designed for wool like Woolite. You will also need a sink or washtub to wash the hat in, and an old toothbrush or dish brush to remove tough stains. If you are washing a cotton or polyester hat, fill a sink or washtub with warm water. As you are filling the sink with water, add one scoop of a product such as Oxi Clean White Revive, one cup of hydrogen peroxide, and one tablespoon of dish liquid. Once your sink is about 2/3 full, turn off the water and swish it around to combine. For a wool hat, fill a sink or washtub with cool or cold water and add one capful of detergent designed for wool, such as Woolite. Once your sink is about 2/3 full and you have swished around the cleaning agents to combine them, place your hat in the sink. You will want to make sure the hat is fully submerged in the cleaning mixture. Let a cotton or polyester hat soak in the mixture for 10-15 minutes. Soak a wool hat for at least one hour. After you have soaked the hat for 10-15 minutes, you can work on removing tough stains. Grab an old toothbrush or a dish brush. Gently scrub any tough stains. Then scrub the entire hat to remove any remaining dirt. If your hat is made of wool, you should avoid scrubbing the hat as this can cause pilling of the wool. Once you are done cleaning the hat, rinse it with water. If the hat is made of cotton or polyester, rinse it with warm water. If the hat is made of wool, rinse it with cool or cold water. Make sure all of the cleaning agents are rinsed from the hat. Once your hat is rinsed, you will need to air dry it. You should not put the hat in a dryer. Instead, place the hat over an upside down bowl and allow it to dry in the sun. This will help the hat keep its shape. If you cannot place the hat in a sunny spot, dry it indoors. You can speed up the process by placing a fan near the hat.
Summary: Gather your supplies. Prepare the sink according to fabric type. Soak the hat. Scrub a cotton or polyester hat with a toothbrush. Rinse the hat. Dry the hat.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Pour a line of emulsion along a side of the screen and use the squeegee to spread a thin line along the entire screen. Photo emulsion reacts to light, hardening when exposed, so anything not covered by your stencil will turn into a barrier preventing ink from getting through. Apply emulsion to the flat side of the frame, not the side surrounded by wood. Do this in as dark a room as possible to prevent the emulsion from hardening before you're ready. Expose it to as little light as you can. A closet or bathroom will work well, as long as you can close some curtains You'll need to expose the emulsion to a direct, strong light to prepare it. Following the specification on the photo emulsion bottle, set up a light above your flat black surface. Each emulsion has different times, watts, and distances needed for proper hardening, so be sure to read the bottle before beginning. The lamp should always be 1-2 feet above the emulsion. If the emulsion calls for 30 minutes at 200 watts, set up a lamp with a 200W bulb 1-2 feet above a table. The screen goes under the light. As you're moving the screen, cover it with a towel so it does not react to incidental light. Place it under the lamp in your station, leaving the towel on for now. The screen should be emulsion side up. The mesh will be lifted a few inches off the table and resting on the frame. Place your stencil in the middle of the screen with 4-5 inches of space between the design and the edge of the frame. You must place your stencil down in reverse to get the right image. Look at your stencil the way you want it, then flip it over before you put it down. Otherwise, you will get a mirror image when you start printing. If there is a breeze, or your stencil is very light, place a clear piece of glass on top of it to keep it from moving. Do not push, prod, or move your screen, light, or stencil once it is placed and set. Simply follow the instructions on your emulsion bottle and remove the screen when it is done. When it is done, remove the stencil and set it aside for later. If you smell anything burning during this process, turn off the light immediately. If you prepared the emulsion correctly, you should see the faint outline of your stencil in the emulsion when the design is removed. Take any high-powered water source (shower, faucet, hose) and wash off the screen, focusing on your image. The water will wash away the unhardened emulsion around your design. You should see the outline of your stencil appear. Keep on spraying until you can see your image well. Let the screen dry before moving on to the next step. The mesh should be touching whatever you're printing on, like paper or a shirt. If you're using a shirt, slide some cardboard between the layers of the shirt to prevent the ink from bleeding through. Put a thin line of ink just above your design. Then drag the squeegee over your design firmly, coating the entire stencil in ink. The harder you press the darker your image will be. Pull the screen off the t-shirt/paper with even pressure, then hang the shirt up to dry. Your design will be printed. You can use your silkscreen again with another t-shirt if you want, adding more ink as necessary. Simply wipe down the backside after every shirt and reapply ink. If you're using the same print for multiple days in a row, rinse and dry it at the end of each day.

SUMMARY:
Coat your silk screen with a thin layer of photo emulsion. Let the emulsion dry in a dark space. Set up an "exposure area" while waiting for the emulsion to dry. Place your screen under the light in the exposure area. Put your stencil backwards on the middle of the screen. Turn on the light for the recommended time. Blast off the emulsion with cold water. Line up your screen above the object you're printing on. Squeegee some ink over your design. Slowly pull off your silkscreen. Repeat with as many shirts as you want, cleaning the screen occasionally.