Q: Make sure the valves are facing up. Pick up your mouthpiece and carefully insert it into the mouthpiece hole. Avoid inserting the mouthpiece with too much force. Inserting it too hard will cause a jam. The instrument may feel heavy at first, so spend some time getting used to the weight. Support the instrument with your left arm. Place your right hand on the valves. Sit with your back up against the chair. Place your feet flat and parallel to each other on the ground. Work towards a consistent pitch. Don't be discouraged if it sounds uneven at first. Right now you are just working on getting your instrument to make noise. Focus on the sound being produced. The baritone makes a very low and rich sound. The speed of your lips determines the pitch as well. Make a buzzing sound consistently. You don't want to put in all your energy on the first five seconds and then become tired! Not knowing the scales is normal and expected for a beginner. Don't worry if you're not sure what note you're playing yet. Work on getting familiar with the valves and then learn the scales. Gently remove the mouthpiece and put it in the mouthpiece hole in the case. Return the instrument to its case. The case should be stored with the bell in an upright position. An incorrectly stored case with the bell turned upside down will weaken and damage the instrument over time. Check and clean the spit valve regularly after a practice session. If a slide doesn't have a spit valve take out the slide and shake out the water. Store the case in a place with a cool or moderate temperature. Don't put your instrument nearby a heat source like a heating as it can damage it.
A: Place the baritone in your lap. Position the baritone in your arms. Sit with a straight posture to optimize playing and sound. Tighten your lips and make a buzzing sound on the mouthpiece. Take deep, slow breaths and exhale strongly. Practice fingering the valves. Finish your practice session with care.

Q: For small, grassy areas, a small metal garden fork or sandals with spikes in the bottoms are enough to poke holes in the soil. Aeration holes let in air, water, and roots. Start on one side of the lawn and push the fork into the ground in one direction every few inches or eight to ten centimeters. You may need to repeat the process in a different direction to achieve aeration. Loosen the compaction by digging up two or three inches of dirt with a shovel. Take a spade and divide the soil into small rows about a foot wide. Dig small trenches behind these rows, then use the rows of soil to replace the dirt removed from the trenches. For poor soil, you may need to dig deeper, about two spade-lengths, to help aerate the top layer and mix it with better soil. Buy or rent a rototiller from a lawn and garden or home improvement store and consider getting an aeration attachment for it. Run the tiller over the soil, then run it over again two or three times, using it to cut deeper. Tillers aren't as effective on large areas as coring machines since they only break up the top layer of soil. Tilling too regularly actually contributes to soil compaction, because it creates a hard pan of soil below the tilled area. Plug aerators are heavy machines that are useful for large areas of foot traffic such as lawns or fields. Rent the machine from a home and garden store, then set the machine against moist soil. As it rolls across the soil it will pull out a core of dirt, then move it two or three inches away. Repeat throughout the area. Let the removed soil plugs dry before breaking and scattering them. Badly compacted areas require multiple passes of the aerating machine. Mark off any areas where pipes and roots run close to the surface. The aeration plugs should only be a couple of inches deep, but it can still damage these structures. There are also hand held aerators which you push into the soil manually and then move, which may be better for smaller lawns or gardens. This is an intensive solution and is mostly used for small areas to reintroduce grass. Dig up the compacted soil by hand or by machine. You can gather the soil into a planting mound nearby or bury it in good soil. Bring in new topsoil and spread it over the area. Check with your lawn and garden or home improvement store for a soil that has the qualities to nurture plant growth. The larger the plant, the more replacement soil it will need to flourish. Trees and shrubs require 15 inches to three feet of replacement soil.
A: Punch holes with a garden fork. Dig up compaction. Get a rototiller with an aeration attachment. Remove soil cores. Replace the soil.

Q: A pilot's license is necessary before you can take flight. While you can wait until you finish your build to do this, you can begin the process before you even start on your plane. Take a flight class from a certified school in your area, then apply with the FAA or your government's aerial authority. You won't be able to use your plane for this, since it has to pass inspections first. You will use an instructional plane at the school. The certification board gives you a medical exam, similar to going to a doctor for a check-up. They may also have you take a written test on flight rules. Use your pilot's license to test out many different types of aircraft. This can help you figure out what kind of plane you want to build. You will need to transport your plane to an airport before you can fly it. If you can, detach parts like the wings and reassemble the plane in an airport hangar. Transport the plane by renting a truck or flatbed. Make sure all the parts are strapped down securely. Contact airports in your region. The employees can direct you on where to bring your plane for registration. Many planes are stored at hangars near the airport. You will have to pay a fee, which may be around $700 to $800 annually for a small plane. However, your plane will be safe in the hangar and always accessible. Contact your local airport for information on renting hangar space. If you have a lot of property space or storage space like a large barn, you may keep the plane there. Your government's transportation safety board, such as the Federal Aviation Administration in the U.S., handles aircraft registration. Complete the paperwork to register your aircraft as amateur-built. They will likely give you an identification number for your plane. Registration can take 1 to 2 months to complete, so be prepared for this. While you wait, consider practicing by flying other airplanes. Contact the EAA or other flying organizations for help with the paperwork. A government agent at the airport will give your plane a thorough inspection to make sure it is safe. They check that your plane is built properly with quality materials. If your plane passes, you receive a document of official certification in 1 to 2 months. If your government requires you to keep a logbook detailing the building process, bring it in during the inspection. Schedule the test with the government agency that certified your plane. The EAA and other flight organizations can help you with this. To pass the test, you have to fly your plane for up to 40 hours total. You can do this within a couple of sessions. Once you pass the test, you can fly your plane according to the rules of the sky. You can fly cross-country and invite other people aboard.
A:
Get a pilot's license in your free time. Bring your plane to an airport. Find a place to store your plane. Complete your aircraft registration paperwork. Complete the final plane inspection at the airport. Have your first test flight.