Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Select engraving tools. Apply a thin layer of ink over the wood. Check that the surface is prepared. Support the wood (optional). Hold the engraving tools. Engrave the wood. Experiment with your approach. Add ink to the woodcut. Transfer your design onto paper. Clean your tools.

Answer: There are a variety of unpowered, handheld engraving tools you can use. To make detailed pictures, such as you might see in a 19th-century book, select two or three tools for different effects. Here are three common types of traditional, handheld engraving tools: Spitstickers are used to carve fluid lines. Gravers produce lines that swell or shrink as you cut, depending on changes in the tool's angle. Scorpers, with round or square tips, gouge out large areas of the wood to produce white space in the printed image. This tool is probably not necessary if you are not printing. Take a bottle of black pen ink, and use a brush or a cloth to barely cover a flat, wooden block. This will make the areas you've already cut stand out, so it's important not to use so much ink that it soaks down below the surface. Let the ink dry completely. Once it has, check whether there is a rough "nap" to the wood. If there is, remove it by burnishing firmly with a paper towel. A small, leather sandbag makes an excellent support for the wood, providing a firm backing regardless of the direction you push. Clamping the wood to a table is not recommended, since you'll need to move the block around as you engrave. Hold the tool as you would a computer mouse, with your hand lightly cupped around the handle. Press against one side of the metal stem with your index finger, and press the other side with your thumb. Let the heel of the handle rest in your cupped palm; when engraving, you'll push against the heel to provide pressure. Press the tool into the wood at a shallow angle to engrave. Use your other hand to turn the wooden block slowly as you push forward with the tool. Cut no more than 1 centimeter (less than inch) at a time before adjusting the position of your hand. It will likely take some practice before you can cut smoothly. If the tool quickly embeds itself and halt, the angle is probably too steep. "Graver" tools can be gradually moved to a steeper or shallower angle to widen or narrow the line drawn. This can take some practice to use correctly, but it is an excellent skill to develop for wood engraving. One way to start a woodcut is to cut the outline of the image first, making it slightly too large so you can refine the details with a smaller tool. There are many stylized forms of shading, but a series of small, mostly parallel lines in an overlapping "falling rain" pattern often creates the most natural effect. Once the wood is cut, you'll be able to transfer the image onto paper as many times as you like. Purchase a tube of oil-based black relief printing ink for this purpose. Squeeze a tiny amount onto the flat, curved portion of the wood, and use a hand roller, or "brayer," to spread a fine layer over the entire surface. Add more ink if necessary, and keep rolling with even pressure until the surface is smooth. Lay a sheet of paper over the wet block, taking care not to move it once it comes into contact with the ink. Rub over the back of the paper using a burnisher tool, or any smooth, flat object. Lift the paper once it has been rubbed, and you should have a print of your image. Repeat this as many times as necessary, rolling out additional ink whenever the block dries out. If the burnisher is not sliding easily, rubbing it against your hair may provide just enough oil to help, without staining the paper. Look for a "burnisher printing tool," since there are tools used in other professions also called burnishers. After a printing session, wipe away ink from the woodcut and tools using mineral spirits (white spirit) or vegetable oil and a clean rag. Store your woodcut for later use, if you plan to print it again.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Sketch a "notan" of the painting in your sketchbook or on scrap paper with a gray pen and a black one, or a pencil and a pen using the pencil as the gray. Using charcoal or the pencil, make a value drawing in your sketchbook.

Answer: If it's a square, that's square. If it's rectangular or oval, decide if it's going to be vertical "portrait" orientation or horizontal "landscape" orientation. Do the notan drawings very small, just to place the light, dark and medium areas on the design. They can range from a large postage stamp to a business card size - the idea is to see it as if it was at a distance or a thumbnail. Do lots of them till you find the best design without worrying about the details. It can be quite detailed and shaded carefully or just loose to show you where the shadows and highlights are. This partly depends on how detailed and realist you want the painting with. A looser painting style can have a sketchier value sketch, but should still have one with more than "white middle and black" so that you can tell where there are at least five values - white accents, light value, medium, dark, black accents. Some painters like to not use pure black and white but just use "light, light middle, middle value, middle dark, dark" for the five values. It depends on the effect you want. If you don't like the sketch keep trying different versions of it till you get one you like. In the sketch, make sure the light falling on the person, objects or landscape elements is all going in the same direction. Pay attention to where the shadows go. They should all go the same direction and are shorter when the sun or lamp is high, longer if it's later or earlier in the day and the sun is low (or lamp is low). Directional lighting will make all the objects look more three dimensional. Draw the shapes of the shadows carefully and most of your subjects will look three dimensional at that point. This makes for good Impressionism or realism. If you want to do an abstract, do the pencil sketch loosely and work out where you want particular effects like spattering or strong texture strokes. Or skip the sketch stage on paper and proceed to the next. Sketch the subject on the canvas board, canvas paper or canvas pad. Use charcoal or your violet pastel pencil. Mark up the exact proportions of the canvas on the board or pad if it's not exactly the same shape, so everything's placed the way it is in the planning sketches. Do this drawing as pure outlines. You can get detailed for realism by marking up eyes, mouth, any important shapes on it or you can keep it very simple just to the main shapes and main shadow shapes. Either way it should look like a Paint By Numbers canvas when the sketch is done. If you make mistakes, wipe off the charcoal or pastel pencil with a damp cloth, let that area dry and draw it again. Very correctable.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Learn to use 7th chords which are four-note chords: Examine the left hand fingering for this chord which is 5-3-2-1 (skip the left "ring finger"): Look at the right hand as the same fingering with your digits "reversed" so that is 1-2-3-5 (again skip the "ring finger"):

Answer: The following fingerings work for all major 7th and minor 7th chords (the 4th finger plays a musical 7th) on the keyboard. For example: G7 Chord is found by counting from G as 1st on "the circle of notes" then 1st-3rd-5th-7th makes that G-B-D-F: see that all have an interval of one, one skipped note. "Pinkie - G, middle finger - B, index finger - D and thumb - F". "Thumb - G, index - B, middle - D and pinkie - F".

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Choose when you want to deliver your notice letter to your landlord. Deliver the notice letter to your landlord properly. Move out by the required date.

Answer:
After completing your termination notice letter, you will want to consider when to give it to your landlord. Remember, the notice period will not start until your notice is delivered to your landlord. If you are in a month-to-month tenancy, you should deliver your notice letter along with your last month's rent. This will ensure that you provide the required 30 days notice and that you will have paid the last month's rent. If you have a fixed term tenancy, you should deliver the notice 30 days (or however long your state's notice requirement is) before the term is up. For example, if you signed a lease that ends on August 31, 2013, you should deliver your notice August 1, 2013. While you can give the landlord notice at any time during the rental period, if you give notice in the middle of the month you will be required to cover part of the next month's rent. For example, assume you have a month-to-month tenancy and you pay rent on the first of the month. You could give your notice on the tenth of the month but you would be required to pay rent through the tenth of the following month. After deciding when you want to deliver your notice, remember to look at your lease agreement or your state's laws and understand how you will have to deliver your notice. Make sure you follow the correct procedures to ensure your notice is valid. Once you have delivered your notice, be sure you vacate the property on or before the date you specified in your notice letter.