Odds of 3-5 indicate that your profit will be three-fifths of a dollar. In other words, for every $5 you bet you can win $3 in profit. To determine profit, multiply the amount you bet by the fraction. If I spend $15, then my profit for winning is $9 (15 x 3/5). Ex. If I successfully bet $15 on a horse with 3/5 odds of winning, the payout would be $24 ($15 + [15 x 3/5]) This makes sense, because you would expect a bet on the underdog to have a higher payout. If you have a hard time with fractions, then see if there is a larger number on top then on bottom. If so, that team/horse is not expected to win. When you bet for the underdog, it is called betting "against the odds." For example, if odds are 3/1 for the Cowboys this Sunday, then it is three times more likely that they will lose than win. Odds of 3-1 indicate that if you bet $100, you will win $400, the original amount of your bet plus the profit. Odds of 1-3 will win you $33 on a $100 bet, or $133.

Summary: Know that odds at the track tell you amount of profit you will make per dollar spent. Understand that fractions greater than one mean a team is an underdog.

This is another way of saying that your hydrangea produces new spring blooms on last year's buds. Hydrangeas with this characteristic tend to bloom in early summer, and the flowers die by mid summer. At this point the shrub begins producing the buds that will bloom the following year. Hydrangeas that bloom on old wood include the following: Bigleaf, Mopleaf or Lacecap hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla and H. serrata) Oakleaf hydrangeas (H. quercifolia) Use the images at http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/identify.html to help you identify what kind of hydrangea you have before you start making any plans to prune your plant. Since these types of hydrangeas start producing buds soon after blooming, in late summer and early fall, it's essential to prune them just as the blooms begin to fade in mid-summer. This way you can trim the shrub before it begins to produce the buds that will turn into next year's flowers. The longer you wait, the likelier it will be that you'll cut off some of next year's growth. If you've missed this window, just wait until next year to prune the hydrangea. Hydrangeas don't have to be pruned every year, so it won't be a problem to wait. If you're unhappy with your hydrangea's shape, you can go ahead and prune - just know that in doing so outside of the short midsummer window, you'll risk hurting it's appearance next spring. Right after they're spent, use hand shears to deadhead the blooms. Do this by making clips just under the heads at the tips of the stems. This will tidy up the hydrangea's appearance during the blooming season. You can also remove dead or dying canes at this time; trim them at their base. When a hydrangea is several years old, it'll start to produce fewer blooms. You can promote fresh growth by taking out some of the older canes - up to 1/3 of them. For thicker canes, you may need loppers to cut them. Cut these older canes to the ground. If your hydrangea has grown quite large, you can prune it in June or July (just after the blooming season) to contain it a bit. Trim back the branches by 1/3 to the nearest joint. In most cases hydrangeas will grow back quite quickly, so you may not be able to maintain the smaller size for long. This type of pruning isn't necessary for the health of the plant. Only do it if your hydrangea is taking up too much space. When planting new hydrangeas, it's best to choose a spot where they can grow freely. "Endless Summer" hydrangeas are an exception to the rule. This variety is more low-maintenance than others and can really be pruned at any season - there is no "bad time." Endless Summer hydrangeas can mainly be left alone until they mature. You can then "deadhead" the plant in the spring or fall to encourage new flowers.

Summary: Determine if your hydrangea blooms on old wood. Prune just after the blooming peak. Remove old blooms. Remove the oldest canes. Prune the hydrangea to reduce its size.

Gently place it in your hand. The part of the lens that touches your eye should be face up. Your lens should look like a bowl. Make sure the solution gets on both sides of the lens. Allow some of the solution to drain away before you continue cleaning the lens. If you're wearing rigid contact lenses, make sure you purchase contact solution specifically formulated for these lenses. Read the label thoroughly. Ask your doctor which solution is best for you. Always use contact solution to clean your lenses. Never, ever use water or saliva to clean your lenses. This can cause a serious infection. Do not attempt to clean daily contacts, which are only meant to be worn once. You should throw these away, as wearing them more than once increases your risk of infection. Lightly move the lens back and forth on your palm. There should be contact solution both on your hand and on the lens. Some solutions are labeled as "no-rub" solutions. However, rubbing always gets your lenses cleaner, so it's best to do it regardless of which solution brand you use. If your lens is very dirty, you might flip it over and rub both sides. Spray the lens with contact solution to remove any remaining grime. Make sure the solution treats both sides of the lens. If you see any visible dirt or grime left on the lens, repeat these steps to try to clean the lens. If you cannot get the lens clean, discard it. You can follow the same steps to clean your lens after it falls out or feels dirty, as long as you only use saline solution. Instead of putting your lens away, put it back in your eye.

Summary: Place your contact lens in the palm of your hand. Spray contact solution on the lens. Use the pad of your finger to gently rub your contact lens. Rinse the lens once more before putting it in your case.

If your pillow is covered with a slipcover or pillowcase, take the protective covering off. Check the care instructions on the tag of the cover, and wash the cover or pillowcase in the washing machine or by hand according to the instructions. Remember to wash your pillowcase and slipcover every 2 weeks at least to keep your pillow smelling fresh. Baking soda is a great deodorizer and can be used to freshen up a variety of surfaces, including gel and memory foam. Coat the entire pillow in a layer of baking soda, working on one side of the pillow at a time. If you have a very large or European-style pillow, you may need to use 3-4 tablespoons (43.2-57.6 grams) to cover the surface. Let the pillow sit while the baking soda absorbs the odors off of the surface of the gel pillow. If possible, let the baking soda sit on the pillow overnight. If the pillow has a very bad smell, try placing it in a large plastic bag with the baking soda on it for 1-2 days. The baking soda will have time to absorb the odors from the pillow. If you have children or pets, place the pillow in a place where they can't access it, like on top of a cabinet or in the closet. After the baking soda has absorbed the smell from the pillow, vacuum the surface thoroughly. Working in sections, pull the brush across the pillow to make sure all of the baking soda is removed. Make sure to clean and dry the vacuum attachment before using it on your pillow. It might take a few passes of the vacuum to remove all of the baking soda. After the first pass, run your hand across the pillow. If it still feels grainy, vacuum it again.
Summary: Remove the cover from your pillow. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons (28.8 grams) of baking soda over the pillow. Let the baking soda sit on the pillow for 30 minutes. Use the brush attachment of a vacuum to remove the baking soda.