For best results, the plow pulled by the tractor must be level from side to side and from front to back. The more plow blades on the rig, the more important levelness is. To level the plow, take it to a concrete pad in your driveway or some other place that is perfectly flat. One of the two lower bars will be made for angling the plow from side to side. There are normally levers for the two hydraulic arms. The first lifts both arms up and down. The second is for the plow draft, or side-to-side angle. Adjust this lever until the plow is flat from one side to the other on the concrete (you can lay a carpenter's level on it to check). If there isn't a plow draft lever, there should at least be a manual crank on the one arm that you can turn to adjust the angle. Next, adjust the third upper arm so that the plow is level front to back. It may need further adjusting when you start plowing, as the plow should be level when it is sunk into the dirt and plowing. When you're using a mechanical rig, you can use hydraulic controls to change the depth of the plows as you work. You want the plow blades deep enough that they turn over the top layer of soil. However, the plow shouldn't be so deep that it is causes the tractor to labor hard. The exact way to adjust the plow's depth will vary from rig to rig. There is normally a depth stop on the up and down lever for the plow's hydraulic arms. Set it so your plow stops at the proper depth each time you get to the end of your row and need to turn around and drop the plow again. If the tractor starts pulling to hard raise the plow up a little then let it back down while keeping going. If the ground is wet and you start spinning your wheels, pull the plow up fast Position your tractor with the plowing rig hitched behind it in the corner of your field. Start plowing your field in rows, using the hydraulic controls to lower the plows into the dirt. When you reach the end of a row, raise the plows out of the ground as you turn, then lower them again for the next row. When using a tractor, you want to space out your furrows carefully because these will be the low, wet spots in the field. After you plow each row, there will be a rut at the one side of where you just plowed. When you turn around, your inside tractor's tire should go into this rut. The next swipe should plow the dirt from the next row over into that rut, covering it up. When you're using a tractor to plow a large field, you need to worry about soil erosion. One way to fight this is to plow the end rows (the rows along the shorter edges of the field) at 90 degrees to your main rows. This way, the raises and furrows act as a protective barrier from wind and rain, keeping the soil from washing away. If you're not dealing with a perfectly rectangular field, your end rows may not be perfectly 90 degrees. This is OK just get the opposing edges of the field as perpendicular to the main rows as possible.

Summary: Level the plowing rig. Set the depth for your plow. Plow in even rows. Plow your end rows perpendicular to the rest.

Try to get a glass spray bottle if you can, as essential oils had a tendency to degrade plastic bottles over time. If you can't find a glass spray bottle, use a high-quality plastic bottle instead.

Summary: Get a 2 to 3-ounce (60 to 90-milliliter) spray bottle.

to the trim, switches, and edges of the shower or tub. Make sure to apply painter's tape wherever the wall meets the ceiling or the floor. Tape door frames and light switches too. The tape will protect these areas from the paint and help make cleanup easier. You may want to cover the floor with a canvas drop cloth, as well. You can remove the switch plates around your light switches with a screwdriver to protect them from the paint. It's damaging on the lungs to inhale paint fumes, so reduce your risk by making sure there is plenty of air flow. Open a window, and position a fan facing outside, so it will whisk away the paint fumes. If your bathroom doesn't have a window, wear a filtered respirator to keep your lungs safe. Check if your wall is plaster by inserting a pushpin. If it goes in easily, you have drywall. You don't have to apply primer for drywall, unless it is a brand-new, never-been-painted wall. If the pushpin does not go in easily, you probably have a plaster wall. If you have a plaster wall, apply one coat of primer with a paint roller. Allow the primer to dry completely, usually overnight, before applying the base coat of paint. Use a low-gloss paint for the base coat. This will make sure that the shinier latex glaze of the top coat stands out. Make sure your base coat resists mildew. The bathroom has a lot of moisture, what with the shower and the sink, so a mildew-resistant paint is best. You can ask at the paint store for recommendations about which interior paints best resist mildew. Make sure that your base color paint looks good with your top color. A simple way to do this is to pick 2 colors from the same color family (i.e. different shades of red). Alternatively, pick 2 colors that are next to each other on the color wheel, like green and blue. The base coat can either be lighter or darker than the top color. If your base color is lighter than your top color, the 2 colors will look more blended. If your base color is darker, the top color will appear to be floating off of it. This is a lovely look but also shows flaws in the painting more clearly. The tray is wide enough to fit a roller and so will be useful when you roll the walls. Refill the paint tray as needed as you paint. Paint where the walls meet each other, the floor, the ceiling, and wood trim. Although you will apply most of the base color paint with a roller, the roller can't get into the tight corners, so you have to get into those little spaces with a paintbrush. A flat-tipped, 2 in (5 cm) polyester paint brush should work great for getting into the small corners and along the trim. Hold the roller at an angle to the wall, and apply slight pressure. Roll up and down, from floor to ceiling. Move to the side about three-quarters of a roller width each time, so you're always slightly overlapping the previous roll. Remember to only paint the regular walls of the bathroom. Do not paint any tile or concrete. Do not reload the roller with paint for this stage. Simply roll the roller up and down over the wall with very light pressure. This will smooth out any roller marks or paint build-up, leaving your base coat looking beautiful. Weather can affect drying time. If it's humid, let your base coat dry for an extra day after the first night of drying.
Summary: Apply painter's tape Make sure your bathroom is well ventilated. Apply primer, if needed. Select mildew-resistant paint for the base and latex glaze for the sponge coat. Pour some of the base coat paint into a paint tray. Use a paintbrush to apply the paint to the edges of the walls. Dip a paint roller into the base color and roll onto the bathroom walls. Smooth out roller marks with an unloaded roller. Let the base color dry overnight or until the paint is no longer tacky.