INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Either an upholstery cleaner or all-purpose cleaner will work on your headliner. Work in a well-ventilated area while cleaning your vehicle. Wet the bristles of a large detailing brush with your cleaning solution. Avoid spraying the cleaner directly on the ceiling of your vehicle since it could cause the adhesive underneath the fabric to loosen up. Wear a thin pair of latex gloves if your skin is easily irritated by chemical cleaners. Work in long back and forth strokes so the cleaner starts to bubble. Apply gentle pressure to the brush while you scrub your vehicle's ceiling. As you're working, spray more cleaner onto your brush if you notice that it isn't producing a lather anymore. For noticeable spots or stains, work extra cleaner into the area making small circles with your brush. Put a brush attachment on the nozzle of your machine. Hold the nozzle against your vehicle's ceiling and turn it on. Start in the front of your vehicle and work towards the back. Work in 24in (61cm) strokes across your ceiling to suck up your cleaning solution. This process works best to remove nicotine and smoke residue from your vehicle interior. The vacuum or spot cleaner should absorb most of the moisture in your ceiling, but let it air dry for 24 hours. Run your hand over the fabric to make sure the fabric is dry and to remove any lines in the fabric left by the vacuum. Leave your windows open if your vehicle is in a safe, temperature-controlled space to let your vehicle air out. Once your vehicle has dried out, look for any stains or discoloration remaining on the headliner. Start by doing a spot treatment, but if that doesn't work, try a heavier cleaning method. Some stains won't come out completely. Lighten the stain as much as you can.

SUMMARY: Spray upholstery cleaner on a stiff-bristled brush. Rub the ceiling with your brush to lather the cleaner. Use a wet vacuum or spot cleaner to remove the cleaning solution. Let the headliner dry completely. Repeat the process if stains are still visible.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Fruit flies lay their eggs places that provide food and moisture, such as rotting fruit and dank sinks or garbage cans. To get rid of the eggs, you'll need to figure out where the flies' food sources are in your kitchen. Bowls or bags of aging fruit are an obvious culprit. Even if your fruit is brand new, the container you're storing it in might have residue from old produce that's still attracting fruit flies. If you keep compost in your kitchen, that may be a food source for fruit flies. An open bag of recyclables can be attractive to fruit flies, especially if it contains un-rinsed beer or soda cans. When did you last wash your garbage can? Even if you take out the trash frequently, the receptacle itself could be the source of the problem. Kitchen sink drains often harbor fruit flies, since food bits can get trapped in there and start to rot. Damp sponges and mops can also be breeding grounds for fruit flies. When you have a fruit fly problem, don't leave fruit exposed at room temperature in your kitchen. Store it in a closed brown bag or keep it in the refrigerator until you've taken care of the fruit flies. One piece of overripe fruit can perpetuate the infestation by providing a great place for fruit flies to breed. Don't throw fruit scraps in the trash. Unless you take your trash out daily, avoid throwing peach pits, apple cores and other fruit scraps in the trash in your kitchen, since they'll end up as breeding grounds for fruit flies. Take scraps directly outside to a compost pile or outdoor bin. Your trash can, recycling bin, and compost bin could be harboring fruit fly eggs. Any waste receptacle you keep indoors should be cleaned with hot, soapy water as soon as you notice the infestation. Take out your trash, recycling or compost often to prevent the problem from recurring. Continue washing the containers every week or so, especially during the late summer months when fruit fly populations are high. Rinse bottles and other containers with hot water before you throw them in the bin. Residue from these items can spill on your trash receptacles and make the fruit fly problem worse. You should also make sure all of your waste receptacles have tight-fitting lids. You can check to see if your drain is a fruit fly breeding ground by covering it with a piece of plastic wrap spread with a thin layer of honey. Place it over the drain honey-side down, then come back in an hour or so. If you see fruit flies stuck to the honey, your drain is part of the problem. Make sure your drain is operating properly. If it's backed up, or if your garbage disposal isn't working, you might have bits of rotting fruit attracting flies down there. To kill eggs, pour a pot of boiling soapy water down the drain. Use a brush to scrub around the sides of the drain. Don't pour bleach down your drain. It doesn't work, and it's harmful to the environment. Old sponges, damp mops, old rags, and any other items you use to wipe your counters and floors might contain fruit fly eggs. Throw them away or wash them using the hot cycle on your washing machine. Use hot, soapy water to clean your countertops. Make sure you get all the cracks and crevices where fruit flies might like to congregate. Clean your cabinets, pantry, and any other places where you've stored fruit, juices, or other sugary items. Check the floor, too. If a drink got spilled under the refrigerator, for instance, that might be part of the problem. Clean any areas that feel sticky. Keep kitchen surfaces clean every day. Make sure everything is wiped down as part of your cleanup after each meal. Wash all dishes after use. Avoid leaving dishes just sitting around dirty (if you have a dishwasher, pop them in there and shut the door to await a wash).
Summary: Figure out where they're breeding. Store your produce carefully. Wash your waste receptacles. Clean your drain. Throw out other potential breeding sources. Wipe down the surfaces in your kitchen.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Cutting secondary stems will give you a fuller weigela plant. Locate 2-3 branches that are growing next to the main stem and use a hand-held pruning saw to cut the stems upward at a 45-degree angle. Saw the stems as close to the ground as you can. This will divert the plant's energy to the main stem and new growth, which will promote stronger blooms. Seed pods are left over after the flowers bloom and fall off the plant. They look like buds on the tips of the weigela branches. Use a pair of hand shears to cut the upper growth right above a lower hanging bud on the branch. Do not cut more than 1/2 of the branches full length. Make the cut straight, right above a flowering bud. Cutting away old buds will promote the growth of new, stronger buds which will lead to more robust blooms the next year. Look for light grey or brown branches that feel brittle or hollow to the touch. Diseased branches may also have spots or mold on them. Cut these branches down to the main stem, on a 45-degree angle, to make room for new growth and prevent potential disease from spreading. If the center of the branch is brown or gray, the branch is dead. If a branch looks weak or wispy, there's a good chance it will never develop flowering buds. Cut away these branches down to the main stem to promote growth in other parts of the plant. Leave strong branches that have minimal offshoots and that are capable of growing flowers. You should cut branches that are rubbing up against the main stem or crossing over, as they can damage the plant. Use a pair of hand shears and cut the branches down to the main stem. Use rejuvenation pruning if you want to start over with your weigela shrub. Prune all the branches down to 1/3 each season until the shrub is 410 inches (1025cm) in height and there is only new branches left. This is a great way to restart your plant without having to purchase a new one. You should rejuvenate prune in the late winter.

SUMMARY:
Saw 2-3 secondary stems to the ground on mature plants. Cut off the tops of the seed pod branches. Cut away dead or diseased branches. Prune off wispy branches. Cut off branches that are rubbing against the main stem. Prune 1/3 of the plant over several seasons to "restart" your plant.