Q: Then wash your hands. ) Go to a well ventilated area. Repeat 2-3 times. Apply a thin coat of paint to the ring. Repeat as you did in the previous step, but with the paint. Let dry overnight.
A: If engraving and painting, engrave first. Clean ring with soap and water to wash off oils and other contaminants. Get some paint and primer (spray or brush), ring, and, if using spray paint, overspray protector (newspaper, old tarp, etc. Using primer, apply a thin coat to the ring and let dry for 15-30 minutes. To ensure strong base coat, let primer dry overnight. If desired, apply a single medium-thin coat of clear finish to the ring after the paint is done drying.

Q: Concrete is mixed by adding together Portland cement, sand, and coarse aggregate (gravel) together in a ratio of 1:2:4. Water is added to the dry mixture to bind all the components together. In a concrete mixer, add the determined amount of water and then the concrete mix. You can also mix this in a wheelbarrow with a shovel. Use as little water as possible. Water makes the concrete more maneuverable but it also weakens the constitution of the final product. A drier mix makes the concrete more crack resistant. Turn on the machine. The mix will become smooth and consistent. Shut off the machine. You can sometimes get a truck to pour concrete straight into your form; otherwise, load it into wheelbarrows and tilt them into the form until the high point is reached. While doing this, enlist some helpers to spread out the concrete with shovels, rakes and "come alongs," which is a special concrete rake. Starting at the uphill point, use a screeding tool to flatten out the wet concrete. Screeding involves jiggling a wide plank of wood back and forth, if possible immediately over the forms, to create a flat surface. Work your way from top to bottom, gently screeding until you have a flat surface. Your concrete surface won't be finished yet, but it will begin to look more complete and professional looking at this point. At this point, you should move fairly quickly as the concrete will set fast. Your floating process will contain two steps: Use a large floating device, also known as a bull float, to press down aggregate and help the cream (gravel-free concrete) rise to the surface. Do this by moving the bull float away from you, keeping the tailing edge slightly elevated, and then moving the bull float back towards you, keeping the leading edge slightly elevated. Use a magnesium hand float to go over the surface. After some of the water bleeds to the surface, use long sweeping motions with your hand float. Line up a plank as a straight edge to make periodic joints in the concrete. These joints will help the concrete withstand cracking due to temperature changes. Cut the joints about a quarter of the thickness of the concrete. Use a broom to sweep across the surface, creating designs. This will provide traction on the concrete so it is not as slippery when wet. A soft brush can also be used for a different texture that is less rough. For a smoother surface, but one that still has a pattern to it, you can use the trowel and slide it over the surface in a circular motion. Make sure the grooves are not so deep that water stands on the surface. Standing water will compromise the integrity of the concrete. If moving the broom over the concrete causes clumps of concrete to aggregate on your broom, it's too early to broom. Move over the concrete again with the magnesium floater to smooth out the pattern left by the broom, then try again later. Concrete should be left to cure for 28 days, with the initial day being the most critical. As soon as the concrete has been poured, professionals usually recommend sealing the concrete. The sealant will help the concrete cure, as well as prevent cracks and discoloration. Although concrete is often thought of an a no-hassle surface, it benefits from regular maintenance. Regular soap and water maintenance will help keep the concrete looking its best, while occasional seals (~ every five years) can help keep the concrete from getting damaged through use.
A: Mix your concrete. Pour the concrete into the mold. Screed the top of the concrete. Float the newly-screeded surface to further compact the concrete. Make control joints every 5 o 6 feet (1.8m) with a groover. Create traction. Cure and seal the concrete. Maintain your concrete.

Q: In a large saucepot, bring eight cups (1.92 liters) of water to a boil. Add in a half-cup of kosher or sea salt, two tablespoons of sugar, and a few bay leaves. Once the solution comes to a boil, remove it from the heat, cover the pot, and allow it to cool to room temperature. This much brine will be enough to soak two small pheasants, or one large one. The pheasant will be soaked in this brine solution, which will make the meat juicier. At the same time, the salt will help dry out the skin, and this will make for a crispier and more delicious skin. When the solution cools sufficiently, place the pheasant in the water. Cover the pot again and let the bird soak in the refrigerator for between four and eight hours. Since pheasant doesn't have as much fat as other meat, it can dry out quickly during the cooking process. Soaking it in liquid before cooking can add more moisture to the meat, and this will make for a more tender bird. For younger birds, soak the meat for about four hours. While soaking will make the meat juicier, it will also add extra saltiness, so don't soak it for longer than necessary. Since younger birds are more tender, they don't need to soak for as long as older birds. When you are ready to cook the bird, take it out of the brine. Place it on a wire rack and allow the excess moisture to drain off.
A:
Make a brine solution. Soak the pheasant. Remove the bird from the brine.