Article: Make a mark where the center of the bend needs to be, then mark an extra six to eight inches on either side of this center mark. This will be your "heat zone," where you need to direct the heat. Keep any planned bends at least three to five inches away from any joints. You may need to block the end of the pipe with tape to prevent the sand from falling out. The sand inside will make this take longer, but it also ensures that the pipe holds its form and doesn't cave or warp. Turn the pipe regularly, applying heat to the inner and outer bend throughout your entire marked heat zone. Keep the heat source at least two to three inches away from the pipe to prevent burning the PVC. Keep applying heat and bending until you get your desired shape. If you want a perfect bend, use a metal can or object to provide a "mold" for you bend. Do not try and keep bending the pipe after the sand is removed. This can cause cracks and warping. You can save the sand to use again.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Fill the pipe with enough sand to cover two to three inches above the planned bend. Apply the heat evenly around your planned bend. Slowly bend the pipe, applying more heat as necessary. Remove the sand and let the pipe cool.

Problem: Article: Place a pencil in your compass. Widen the compass to an appropriate width for the radius of your circle. It can be just a few inches or centimeters wide. Next, place the point of the compass on the paper and sweep the compass around until you've created a circle. Sometimes it's easier to draw a half-circle in one direction, and then to come back and draw another half-circle in the other direction. Move it towards the top of the circle. Do not change the angle or settings of the compass. Make it distinct, but not too dark -- you'll be erasing it later. Remember to maintain the angle you've set for the compass. Place the point right on the mark. This should create a second mark a distance away from the first mark. If you've been moving clockwise or counterclockwise around the circle, continue to do so. You should end up back at the mark where you originally started. If you don't, it's likely that the angle of your compass changed while you worked, possibly from squeezing it too firmly or letting it loosen a bit. The six places where your marks cross the edge of the circle are the six points of your hexagon. Use your ruler and a pencil to draw a straight line segment that connects the adjacent dots. These include your original circle, the marks along the edges, and any other marks you made along the way. Once you've erased your guiding lines, your perfect hexagon should be complete.
Summary: Draw a circle with a compass. Move the compass point to the edge of the circle. Make a small mark on the edge of the circle with the pencil. Move the compass point to the mark you made. Make another mark on the edge of the circle with a pencil. Make the last four marks using the same method. Connect the dots with a ruler. Erase your guiding lines.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Position the umbrella to face away from your subject. Aim your flash at the umbrella and away from the subject. The reflection of the flash off the umbrella will diffuse the light so your subject looks lit in a more natural way. Reflecting your flash can reduce the harshness of the light. Use the built-in white card that extends from your flash, if you have one, to reflect the light. If your flash doesn't have one, make one by rubber-banding a blank index card to the back your flash so that it extends above the flash. Bouncing the flash off the ceiling creates a larger light source than shooting your subject with the flash pointed at them. This creates a much softer, natural-looking photograph. You can angle the flash toward a wall on either side of the subject, toward a corner, or directly behind the subject. This creates a directional light source, which allows you to play with shadows and definition in your photographs. Test different angles to find out what works best for your shot.

SUMMARY: Reflect your flash off an umbrella. Reflect your flash off a white card. Bounce the flash straight off the ceiling. Bounce the flash off a wall or corner.

The standard Battleship game set comes with two boxes, one for each player. Each box opens to reveal two grids, one on each inside surface. If your game set does not include two boxes, plenty of red and white pegs, and at least six ship pieces, it will be difficult to use. Try playing on graph paper instead, as described below, or finding an online version of the game. Ships come in various lengths, taking up a different number of squares on the grid. The two players should have identical collections of ships. The following is the typical list, but if you don't have all the pieces, just make sure both sides are even: A single ship five squares long (the aircraft carrier) A single ship four squares long (the battleship) Two ships three squares long (the cruiser and the submarine) A single ship two squares long (the destroyer) With the boxes open, and the players seated across from each other, each player puts his ships down on the lower grid in front of him. Follow these rules to determine where to put your ships: Ships can be placed horizontally or vertically, but not diagonally. You must place all five ships on the grid. Every ship must be completely on the grid. No ship can hang off the edge of the board. Ships cannot overlap each other. Once your ships are placed and the game has begun, you are not allowed to move your ships again. If the two players don't agree who should go first right away, flip a coin or decide in some other randomized way. If you are playing multiple games in a row, consider letting the player who lost the last game go first in the next one.
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One-sentence summary --
Give each player a battleship box. Check that all the ship pieces are there. Have each player secretly arrange their ships. Decide who will play first.