You and your partner should both be on the same page about what the goal is. It's a good idea to write out your goal, then document any compromises that the two of you reach. For example, you might set a goal to resolve a disagreement about how much time to spend together on weekends. You could write out a schedule showing when you'll hang out versus when you'll each have time to do other activities. A new or favorite activity will help remind both of you why you're in the relationship to begin with.
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One-sentence summary -- Set a goal for the argument, along with your boyfriend. Plan to do something fun together after the talk.

Q: Caulk guns cost between five and ten dollars at any home improvement store. Make sure you get one that is made of heavy duty metal. Solid-shaft caulk guns produce very smooth lines and generally get better results. Solid-shafts are a better choice than notched-shaft caulk guns. Trimming the nozzle allows the caulk to flow freely out of the tube. You can control the size of the caulk line, also called the "bead," when you make the snip. The further down on the nozzle you make the cut, the wider the bead will be. For quick, basic jobs, trim the end of the nozzle straight across. Cut the nozzle at a 45-degree angle if you need more precision and control. Check inside the nozzle for a foil seal. If it does have a foil seal, use something sharp and narrow (like a long nail) to puncture it. There will be a long, hooked rod on the end of the gun. Pull it all the way back. This will open up the gun so you can insert the caulk tube. Situate the tube base into the gun first. Then tilt the nozzle end of the tube into the top part of the gun. Turn the hooked rod so that the hooked part is facing up and the side with the teeth is facing down. Gently squeeze the trigger to get the caulk flowing and then it's ready to use. Apply gentle and steady pressure to the trigger. Caulk will begin to flow. Pull the caulking gun along the line or area to be caulked. Keep squeezing the trigger gently as you go to ensure a continuous release of caulk. Move the gun at a steady speed. The caulk will form "beads" as it emerges. Try to get one continuous, even bead along each length. Keep a damp rag (dipped in water or mineral spirits) handy, for fast wiping of mistakes. It is always better to use less caulk than too much. You can always add more on a second pass. To stop the flow of caulk, press the button under the shaft behind the needle. This will relieve tension to the gun and avoid a mess. Don't run the length of the bead any longer than around 5 feet (1.5 meters) before stopping and assessing your work for neatness. If the caulk bead already looks neat and uniform, leave it alone. If it needs to be smoothed out, use a caulking tool, a putty knife, your finger (dampen it first) or a damp rag to pull along the joint and press the caulk smooth. It is far easier to neaten caulk as you go, while it is still damp. Get to it within two to five minutes of application for best results. If you don't stop frequently to neaten the caulk, the earlier portions might dry before you can neaten or mend errors. You'll have to scrape off dried caulk if you want to neaten it. The tape needs to be pulled up before the caulk dries. Lift the edge of the tape up slowly. Pull it away from you and at a 45-degree angle. Do this carefully and try to avoid touching the fresh caulk. You can pull the tape up immediately after you create the bead if you like, but definitely get it up within a few hours. If you go any longer, the caulk could skin over. Allow the caulk at least 24 hours to cure before disturbing it or getting it wet.
A: Get a high quality caulk gun made of sturdy metal. Cut the caulk tube's nozzle to the desired bead size. Insert the caulk tube into the gun. Place the nozzle tip on the spot where you need to begin caulking. Check the neatness of your bead. Pull the painter's tape up.

Article: Steam is recommended by estheticians for opening up the pores to clean them out. Cleaning out your pores can help to minimize their appearance. Steam is a cheap and all natural way to minimize your pores. You can add herbs and scented oils for a nice scented steam bath. Spas often use steam baths as a treatment for large pores before a facial. You will want the water to be hot enough to steam. Heat a larger pot of water to make sure you have enough for a steam bath. Make sure it is hot enough for steam, or else this method won't work very well. Take the water off of the heat once it is steaming. You use many different herbs or spices, depending on your preference. Estheticians recommend basil, mint, rosemary, and lavender for a relaxing scent. If you prefer other herbs or spices, you can use these as well. You could also try adding orange peels or lemon peels the water for more scent. The towel will help to trap any steam. Let this sit for 5 minutes. The sit time will help your herbs to steep and will allow steam to build up. Don't let the bowl sit too long or the water will cool too much and you might lose steam. Slowly move your face over the steam. Do this for 10-15 minutes, inhaling the aromatic scent. This will allow the steam to bring oxygen and moisture to your face. The moisture and oxygen from the steam will help to open your pores for cleaning. This will allow you to wash off any oils or debris released from your pores during the steam bath. Don't use water that is too hot or too cold. Pat your face dry with a clean, dry towel. Avoid using any lotions or oily products on your skin after this steam bath, as they may re-clog your pores.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Consider using a steam bath. Heat up some water in a kettle or pot on the stove. Add dried rose petals, scented herbs, or essential oils to the water. Cover the bowl of water with the herbs in it with a towel. Take the towel off the bowl. Rinse your face with tepid water.