Q: Many classroom management plans begin with the teacher's philosophy of motivation. Basically, it lays out what you believe about education and how students should learn. You can talk about the environment you want to create and how you plan to create that environment, both physically and emotionally. Your school will have certain consequences and even certain rewards already in place. You can and should use this system as the basis of your own. Build off these and incorporate your own policies, procedures, and rules to create a positive classroom environment for your students. Most management plans have some type of positive reinforcement. For instance, you can have kids earn stickers or stars towards a certain reward. These types of plans help motivate students to stay on task. Not every child will be motivated by the same reward. If you choose to do so, you can have a system where each kid chooses her own reward. For instance, some kids may enjoy being rewarded by working in a group, while other kids might enjoy choosing their own activity for a period. Still others may prefer a prize of some sort. Finding what motivates each child can help encourage all personality types. You can also build plans based on age level, as what motivates a second grader will not likely motivate a high school student. One teacher identifies these six groups as the main motivators: praise, power (helping the teacher), projects (deciding what learning activity to do), people (playing outside, working in a group), prestige (recognition in front of the school), prizes, and praise (affirmation from the teacher). While positive reinforcement is the best way to deal with behavior in the classroom, you will also need consequences for negative actions, as well. These consequences should be progressive; that is, each one should be more severe than the last one. Stick with consequences that are easy for you to enforce; that is, you shouldn't need to stop everything to enforce it. It's often best to start with a warning, as all kids make mistakes. You can move on to other consequences, such as a time-out, a write-up, or a letter sent home. For instance, you could start with a warning, move on to a write-up, and then go to a letter home. Alternatively, so many write-ups could equal a letter home. For instance, maybe each kid starts fresh everyday with consequences. Alternatively, you could have consequences carry for a week. With rewards, you should generally let them carry over for the whole year, meaning that kids keep earning towards rewards all year. Once one reward is earned, you let the kid move on to earning the next one. You could have the rewards get progressively better or just let each small goal speak for itself. Rules should be simple enough for kids to understand. They should be to the point with little-to-no gray area. You should also be able to enforce them easily. Make the basic rules. If you word them carefully, you'll be able to cover a lot of ground with just a few rules. For instance, one rule could be to "Respect the classroom, your peers, and your teacher," as that covers being nice to other children, not talking back to the teacher, and not trashing the classroom. Keep it short and simple. Four or five rules is better than 10. Rules should give instruction about what to do, not what not to do. For instance, "Keep your hands to yourself" is better than "Don't touch others."
A: Determine your philosophy. Start with school policies and procedures. Move on to positive reinforcement. Understand each child's motivation. Figure out negative reinforcement. Decide on a consequence time frame. Decide on rules. Write the rules.

Q: Lay down tarps or 2 ft wide plywood at the base of the wall to catch excess mortar as it falls. Keep this surface clean and avoid walking on it so you can reuse this mortar. Space them out appropriately, accounting for the mortar. Use your tape measure to make sure that they are the correct distance apart, and make sure that they fit in the trench snugly. Plan out the whole first row like this before you start any work. If you do not have bricklaying experience, read through this entire section first. You may need to practice a few techniques before you begin. This is going to be for the second layer of bricks, as the first one will be buried in the trench. Run the string from one gauging rod to the other so that you have a straight, level line to work with. Don't let the line sag. This must be kept "true" for a solid, level wall without major structural issues. Soak the bricks in water, then lay them out to drip dry. The bricks should be thoroughly wet so the mortar bonds correctly. That said, wait until there is no more water running off the bricks, or the mortar may become too runny. When in doubt, add a little bit extra mortar, as you will be pushing the brick down slightly. Use your trowel to lightly press into the mortar along the center line, leaving little intents. The mortar will look like little waves. Push down slightly, then use your level to check that the brick even with the ground. To do so, press the level up against the side of the brick and then check it with your string sting line. Scrape any excess mortar down the line. You can use this mortar for the next bricks as long as it is free from contaminants. Once you're sure your first brick is set, lay down some mortar for the next few. You only want to work with 2-3 bricks worth of mortar at a time. Take a slab of mortar and coat the end of the brick that will be pushed up against the first brick. You want a nice, even pat of mortar, just a little more than a 1/2" worth. Press it into place against to the first brick and use your tape measure to make sure they are 1/2" apart and joined by mortar. This is a very important step that ensures a strong bond between bricks. If you skip this and try to fill the mortar in between laid bricks, the joint will eventually fail. For best results, practice this several times on spare bricks before you move on to the real wall. Use the level to ensure that the bricks are flush and at an even height, pushing on them lightly to make sure that they are perfect. You've pressed the bricks together, you'll notice that mortar starts to squeeze out as you work to get 1/2" joints. Use your trowel to scrape the mortar away and down onto the tarp or plywood at the base of the wall. As long as that surface is kept clean, you can reuse the mortar for the next brick. Continue laying bricks down in this fashion -- mortar bottom and side, press in, check evenness with the level-- until your first row, or course, is complete. You can never check if the wall is level enough. You should be using your level and tape measure with almost every brick.
A:
Put down tarps or plywood to catch mortar. Lay your first row of bricks in the foundation for a dry run. Clamp a string on your first guideline. Soak the bricks and let dry. Lay the first 1/2 inch of mortar along the base of the foundation. Press the first brick into the mortar. Lay mortar down for the next 2-3 bricks. Butter the end of the next brick with mortar and press it into place. Press the brick lightly into the 1/2" of mortar you've laid down so that it is level with the first brick. Scrape away any excess mortar as you work. Keep adding bricks until the row is finished.