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Healthy rabbits enjoy moving, hopping, and exploring. If a rabbit experiences pain, it is likely to become less active . Watch your rabbit to see if it is listless and reluctant to move. A rabbit in pain may also be reclusive, staying in one place in a hidden corner. Light tooth grinding can mean that your rabbit is content and isn't normally a cause for concern. Loud tooth grinding is usually a sign of distress. Listen for this rough, grating sound which is a likely sign that your rabbit is in pain. As a general rule, tooth grinding that you can hear when you are across the room from your rabbit can be considered "loud." Pain can cause a rabbit to be irritable or defensive. If it is in pain, your rabbit may lash out and demonstrate uncharacteristic aggression. Take note if your rabbit tries to bite you or tries to harm another pet. Anxiety can also cause aggression in rabbits. Irregular breathing is an observable sign of pain or injury in rabbits. If you suspect that your rabbit is in pain, listen to its breathing carefully to see if it is fast or laboured. If a rabbit is hot it will breathe more rapidly to try and cool down. A rabbit in pain likely lose its appetite. Keep track of how much your rabbit is eating when you empty and clean its food bowl to see if it is eating less. If your rabbit's loss of appetite persists for more than 1-2 days, take it as a sign that it might be experiencing pain. A healthy adult rabbit should be eating approximately 0.5 cups of dry pellet food per day. While rabbits tend to deal with pain quietly, they may let out an unnerving sound in the event of sudden pain. If you hear your rabbit make a high-pitched noise, take this sign of pain seriously and bring it to the vet as soon as possible. It will normally take a significant amount of distress to make a rabbit go against its own nature in such a dramatic way.

summary: Monitor your rabbit's energy level to see if it is active. Listen for loud tooth grinding. Be mindful of any sudden signs of aggression. Observe your rabbit's breathing to see if it is rapid or heavy. Observe how much food your rabbit is consuming. Note any high-pitched squeals that come from your rabbit.

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When you apply for unemployment insurance with the state of California, you will need to actively seek employment. You will also have to register with CalJOBS. Keep a record of your efforts and contact information of the employers you apply with in case of an eligibility interview. Register on line at www.caljobs.ca.gov . To register click "sign up" and enter the required information. Register as an individual. You will need your social security number and must create a user name and password. You must search each week for full time work. Searching for part-time work is also required. If you are in a union, you must inform them of your search and still seek full-time employment. You must be able and available to work. Some circumstances or actions may disqualify you from receiving payments. While some of these circumstances may not necessarily exclude you from receiving payments, knowing which ones can will help you best plan ahead. Review the following list to learn what these disqualifying circumstances are: If you quit or were fired from you job. If a strike or lockout has resulted in your loss of work. If you refuse work. If you do not have transport. Not looking for work or filing your claim late. If your information provided was incorrect. If you are physically or mentally unable to work. People who work for a public school, non-profit educational institution, or any other non-profit organization that provides services to a public or non-profit school, may not receive benefits based on those wages earned. Those in this situation may still receive benefits if wages from employers other than these educational organizations met the standard requirements. If you work for a public school or non-profit education organization, you may not receive benefits during recess. Additional non-education income may still qualify you for benefits.

summary: Meet the work search requirements. Find if you might have been disqualified. Understand that school employees might not be eligible.

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Turn the reel crank clockwise (away from you) until the lure is hanging about 1 foot (0.30m) from the end of the rod. This will put the line in the right position for a good, strong cast. If you have a sinker or bobber attached to the line, make sure it's 1215 inches (3038cm) from the end of the rod rather than your bait. Otherwise, your line will be too short, which will cause your cast to lose momentum. The handles of most spincasting rods have a recessed seat with a trigger-like projection on the underside. Wrap your index finger around this projection to ensure that your grip is secure. You have the option to hold the rod in either your right or left hand. Most fishermen prefer to cast spincasting gear with their dominant hand. If you want to cast and reel with the same hand, you'll need to change hands after your cast. Move the thumb of your casting hand up until the pad rests over the button. Then, push down on the button firmly. Depressing the reel button disengages the spooled line, which will allow it to go flying when you start the casting motion. The line may drop when you press the button, but it shouldn't travel far. If it drops more than 23 inches (5.17.6cm), it means you may not have held the button firmly enough. Reel it in and try again. Let the movement come from your elbow rather than your shoulderthat way, you'll get a better snap when you complete your cast. Once the hand of your casting arm is in position in front of your face, the rod itself should either be vertical or point behind you just slightly. Be sure to keep the handle of the rod above waist level at all times. Avoid raising your arm too high. Doing so could cause you to accidentally hook a nearby object or some part of your clothing. It can also put unnecessary strain on your shoulder joint, which will catch up to you quickly after a long day out on the water. In one fluid motion, reverse the direction of your casting hand, holding the handle of the rod a full arm's length in front of your face. Bring the tip of the rod to a stop at roughly a 30-degree angle, or what's commonly known as the "10 o'clock" position. The key to a good cast is to make your movements as smooth and effortless as possible. Jerking or being overly forceful with the rod will only throw off your accuracy and cause you to lose distance. As you do, the momentum of the rod will propel your bait or lure forward toward your target area. The line will then continue to unspool rapidly until you press the reel button again or the bait or lure hits the water. If your bait or lure simply plops into the water in front of you, you probably released the button too late. If it flies upward in a loose arc, you may have let go too soon. It may be a little tricky at first to properly time your cast with your release. Don't worryyou'll start getting the hang of it after a few attempts. Pressing the button a second time will slow the flight of your bait, causing it to drift down nice and easy where you want it to land. From there, it will just be a matter of patience as you kick back and wait for the tell-tale tug of a bite! Alternatively, you can re-engage the line locking mechanism by turning the reel crack clockwise until you feel a click. At this point, you can transfer the rod to your opposite hand if you feel more comfortable reeling with your dominant hand.
summary: Reel in the line so your lure is 1215 inches (3038cm) from the rod tip. Grip the handle of the rod with your thumb just below the reel button. Press and hold the button on the back of the reel. Raise your casting arm until your hand is in front of your face. Sweep the rod forward quickly. Release the reel button as the rod comes to eye level. Press the reel button again when your bait or lure reaches your target.