Your posture while cycling is also crucial if you want to avoid back pain. Try to keep your back straight while cycling not completely erect like sitting in a chair but rather flat, stable and well supported by squared shoulders. Distribute some of your weight to your arms and hands while keeping your chest and head up. Shift positions and change the angle of your upper body periodically in order to prevent muscle fatigue. Gently lifting and lowering your head from time to time is helpful for keeping your neck loose and avoiding muscle strains. Approximately 45% of overuse injuries to professional road cyclists involve the low back. When riding your bike, keep your arms slightly bent (10 degrees) while gripping the handlebars. This posture will allow the joints and muscles of your upper body to absorb some of the vibrations and impact instead of your spine, particularly if you tend to ride on rough terrain such as forest or mountain paths. Grip the handlebar with your whole hand, but not too tightly. Wear padded cycling gloves to help with shock absorption. If your back tends to act up while cycling, break your ride into segments and take more rest stops. When peddling, it's more efficient and best for your hips and low back to have your knee bend at a 90 degree angle at the top of the peddle stroke (when it's farthest from the ground). At 90 degrees, your thigh should be roughly parallel to the saddle, which then allows for a strong push down on the pedal. At the bottom of the stroke (when the peddle is closest to the ground), your knee should be flexed at about 15-20 degrees, which is unlikely to strain the low back muscles, tendons and/or ligaments. If your legs do not match these angles while you pedal, then adjust the height of your saddle. The front 1/3 of your foot should be in contact with the pedals while peddling.
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One-sentence summary -- Avoid slouching or hunching your shoulders while riding. Keep your arms slightly bent while riding. Keep your leg at a 90 degree angle at the top of the stroke.

Use either your fingers or a comb to separate your hair. Secure the separate sections using hair ties or hair clips. The less heat you use on natural hair, the better. Switch your flat iron to the lowest setting that will still straighten your hair in 1-2 passes and wait for it to warm up. This may take some trial and error, as different hair textures will respond better to different temperatures. There should be a light, or something similar, on your flat iron that goes on or off to indicate it's ready for use. It should say somewhere in your instructions how to tell when you're flat iron's ready to use. Remove one of your sections from the hair tie. Either run your fingers through your hair to comb it out or quickly run a brush through it. Clamp the flat iron around the section near the roots, placing the full section with the flat iron. Place a fine-toothed comb just below the flat iron. Slowly move both the flat iron and the comb from your roots to your tips. This should gradually straighten your hair. Go slowly, as this will help your hair flatten on the first stroke. You generally want to avoid running the flat iron over the hair too much. This can damage your hair. Depending upon your hair's texture, you may need to make 2 passes, but be sure to use a heat protectant and keep the number of passes to a minimum. Repeat this process with every other section to complete the look. Remove the section from the hair tie or hair clips. Run the flat iron from root to tip, running a brush through your hair just below the flat iron. If you want, you can spritz on a light layer of hairspray to set the look. You can also tease your hair with your fingers or a brush first to get it fall the way you want.
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One-sentence summary -- Separate your hair into three to four sections. Heat your iron to the lowest functional setting. Un-tie and brush out one section. Run the flat iron and a comb through that section. Repeat with the other sections. Set your look with hairspray (optional).

Only use vacuums that can handle wet and dry materials, like a chipper vacuum or a wet/dry shop vacuum. Position the vacuum where you plan to start cleaning your gutters. Insert the longest hose into the vacuum and fasten the longest rigid extension attachment to the hose. The power cord for your vacuum may not be long enough to reach a power outlet. Use an extension cord to supply your vacuum with power in these cases. Choose a vacuum that has a strong motor for this project. Vacuums with weak suction will not be as effective. Measure the total length of the rigid extension attachment. When measuring gutter height, measure from the top of the gutter to about knee height. Subtract the attachment length from the gutter height. This measurement is the total length of your secondary extension. While using the gutter vacuum, you'll likely hold the attachment at about chest height. Measuring the gutter from its top to the ground will likely result in a gutter vacuum that is longer than necessary, making it more unwieldy. Mark the secondary extension measurement (gutter height attachment length) on the rigid plastic tube or pipe. Use a hacksaw to cut the plastic to secondary extension length. Excess tube/pipe can be reused or thrown away. Cutting your tube/pipe may have left behind burrs. These can cause slivers or cuts. Remove burrs with a file when necessary. Slide the end of the extension attachment into the secondary extension. Join these pieces together firmly with aluminum tape. Do the same at the opposite end of the secondary extension with a duct elbow. When the first elbow is in place, similarly add the second elbow to it. Putting these pieces together will result in a long, straight, rigid extension that ends in a hook. The hook formed by the elbows should curve so it is facing roughly downwards. So the tool fits inside the gutter, use a nozzle or flatten the end piece. Be sure to tape the connections of your homemade gutter vacuum thoroughly. Gaps may cause suction to decrease, making the vacuum less effective.
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One-sentence summary -- Equip your vacuum with a rigid extension attachment. Calculate the measurement of the secondary extension. Cut a rigid plastic tube or pipe with a hack saw. Assemble the gutter vacuum.

In order to display the Language menu, use the Windows + Space keys. From here, you will be directed on how to change the keyboard shortcuts in order to make the language-switching process a whole lot easier. To change the keyboard shortcut, open the Language panel, which can be found using the following path: Control Panel > Clock, Language, and Region > Language. From here, click or tap on the Advanced Settings link that is present at the left side.This will direct you to the Language Advanced Settings panel. From the Language Advance Settings panel, click or tap the Change Language Bar Hot Keys link, which is placed under the Switching Input Methods option.A new window will open named Text Services and Input Languages. This will be the location where you can change the keyboard shortcut for changing input languages. Click or tap on Change Key Sequence. Select the combination from the given options. When you're done, click or tap on Okay to complete the keyboard shortcut sequence.
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One-sentence summary --
Use the Windows + Space keys. Change the keyboard shortcut.