If you prefer to expend less energy turning your compost, building a "barrel-roll" tumbling composter will help. This type of tumbling composter sits atop a wooden structure and turns on an axle, such as a PVC or steel pipe, that runs directly through it. You'll need to purchase or obtain a plastic or steel barrel, between 20 and 55 gallons (75-200 liters), including a 48 inch (1.25 meter) length of 2 inch (5 cm) schedule 80 PVC pipe, or a length of 1 1/2 to 2 inch (3.8-5 cm) galvanized steel pipe. You'll also need: 2X4 treated lumber Nails Circular saw Jigsaw Drill motor, drill paddle bit, and drill bits Hole saw Basic hand tools (hammer, measuring tape, flexible metal ruler, framing square) Hinges Latches Door handle "L" brackets Measure the diameter of each end of your barrel, and then divide that measurement by two to determine the center point. Your holes should be large enough to fit the pipe you'll be using as the axle. If you can, cut off a small piece of your axle pipe, place it over each center mark, and trace a circle along the outside of the pipe. If you can't, measure the diameter of your axle pipe and draw a circle of the same size around each center point. Once your circles have been created, use a drill paddle bit or hole saw of an equal size to create your holes. Using a 1-inch (2.5 cm) bit space 15-20 holes evenly along the sides of the barrel. This will allow oxygen to flow freely throughout the container. Before you start cutting out a door, trace the shape of the door you want along one side of the barrel using a flexible metal ruler and a framing square. The measurements for the door will differ depending on the size of your barrel. If your barrel is on the smaller size, like 20 to 30 gallons, trace a 12" by 12" square. If it's a 55 gallon barrel, you can outline an 18" by 12" rectangle. The longer side should be parallel to the length of the barrel. Make a couple small holes in one of the corners using your drill to allow space for your jigsaw blade to start cutting. Continue to use the blade all the way around the outline of the door until the shape is removed. The door will likely be a bit flimsy once secured. If your barrel is plastic, secure two pieces of wood to the inside of the barrel, one along the side where you've placed your hatches and the other on the opposite end where you'll place your latches and handle. If your barrel is metal, use two steel plates instead of wood. Consider flattening two "L" brackets to use for your steel plates. To secure the door, install two hinges at the top corners, then install two latches at the bottom corners to lock the door. You can place a handle at the center point of the two latches to help with opening and closing the door. A long spare piece of galvanized sheet metal bent into an "L" shape and bolted to the interior wall of the barrel will do this nicely. Put the fin opposite from the hatch, so as to weight balance the empty container. When you're ready, slide the pipe through the center holes. The length of pipe sticking out of each side of the barrel should be long enough to rest each end on the wooden structure you'll create. If you're using a plastic barrel, the weight of the compost inside your tumbling composter can break the plastic, so before inserting the pipe through the holes secure two slabs of wood to the barrel to distribute the weight of the compost. Take two slabs of wood, such as 2"x4" pieces, and drill into each piece a hole large enough to fit your pipe through. Line each hole up to the holes on either end of your barrel and nail the boards to the barrel. Alternately, you can secure an "L" bracket to each side of the pipe, which will also distribute the weight of the compost. Nail 2 sets of 2x4s (pieces of wood that are 1.5 3.5 or 3889 mm in terms of height and width, respectively) in an x-frame, and nail two 2x4s across the feet at the bottom for support. If it does, you can now fill your tumbling composter with leaves and other compostable material, and allow your new "garden helper" to do its job.

Summary: Gather the materials needed to construct a "barrel-roll" tumbling composter. Drill holes in the center of the top and bottom of your barrel. Drill holes into the body of the barrel for aeration. Create a door on the side of your barrel. Attach a sheet of metal inside the barrel to act as a mixing fin to help turn the compost when the barrel rotates. Pass the pipe or post through the center holes. Build a wooden saw buck to support the compost barrel. Set the barrel with the pipe in the wooden 2x4 saw buck. Rotate the barrel in the sawhorse frame using the pipe or post as an axle to ensure it works properly.

Go to https://www.piriform.com/speccy in your browser. This green button is on the left side of the page. Doing so will take you to the link selection page. It's just below the "Download from" heading under the "Speccy Free" section. Speccy will begin downloading onto your computer. If the file doesn't immediately begin downloading, you can click Start Download at the top of the page to force-start the download. Double-click the setup file, then do the following: Click Yes when prompted. Check the "No thanks, I don't need CCleaner" box in the bottom-right corner. Click Install Wait for Speccy to finish installing. It's a purple button in the middle of the setup window. Speccy will open If you don't want to see Speccy's release notes online, first uncheck the "View release notes" box below the Run Speccy button. This tab is on the left side of the Speccy window. Beneath the "Motherboard" heading at the top of the window, you'll see several pieces of information pertaining to your motherboard's manufacturer, model, version, and more. You can use this information to determine what kind of hardware can be added to your computer.

Summary: Open the Speccy website. Click Download Free Version. Click Free Download when prompted. Click the "Piriform" link. Install Speccy. Click Run Speccy when prompted. Click Motherboard. Review your motherboard's information.

As with the rest of the body, the tongue and nose can be broken down into larger planes to plan out the form. Once you have them looking as if light is shining on them, go in with even finer details. To make the snout look wet, look at your reference for the placement of small, bright, hard highlights. These are called "specular reflections". They occur where the light source is being completely reflected off the surface. Note that the "white" of the eye is rarely white under normal lighting conditions because it is recessed into the head and cast into shadow by the skin around it. Capturing these shadows is the key to making the eye appear to be set in the face and not just painted on the surface. Small, bright specular highlights give the eye a glassy sparkle. The ears are composed of a few large planes that turn up at the edges. Be sure to establish the forms before adding graphic elements like spots, and remember that the spots are affected by the light and shadow of the plane they are on as well.
Summary: Add detail to the nose and mouth. Add detail to the eyes. Add detail to the ears. Continue adding details until you're satisfied with the results.