All dogs have four basic types of teeth: incisors, canines, premolars, and molars. These are found on the upper and low jaws, on both the left and right sides. The incisors are the small teeth running along the front of the mouth. Adult dogs have six incisors on the top and six on the bottom jaw. The two side incisors (next to the canine teeth) are a bit bigger than the middle incisors; on the top these also tend to stick out to the side a bit more. The canine teeth are located behind the incisors, one on each side for a total of four. These are the large, pointed teeth. Premolars come in behind the canines. There are four premolars both on the upper and lower jaw. The fourth premolar on the top is very large. Finally behind the premolars are the molars. On the top of your dog's mouth there are two molars. On the bottom jaw there are three molars. The first one is larger than the other two. Puppies generally have around 28 teeth. For the first two to four weeks, there are no noticeable teeth. Baby canines start coming in after three to four weeks. Baby incisors and premolars start after four to six weeks. By eight weeks, all baby teeth are grown in. For the next three months, there will be no noticeable changes. After five months, permanent teeth will start coming in, usually canines and molars first. By seven months, all permanent teeth will have grown in. If your puppy has all of its permanent teeth, then it is most likely more that 7 months old. Adult dogs will have around 42 teeth. After the puppy stage, age is marked by tooth wear. At one year, teeth are white and clean. By the end of the second year, the white will have dulled and tartar will begin building up. This will cause yellowing on the back teeth. After three to five years the yellowing will increase and be visible on all teeth. There will be noticeable tooth wear. Tooth wear is a natural occurrence, but it can be accelerated by certain habits such as aggressively chewing on hard objects (bones, rocks, sticks) or in small dog's without good dental care. On the other hand, some chewing is great for a dog's dental health. Rawhides or "dental" chews can help dogs break down plaque and material on the teeth. Also understand how disease manifests. By age three, nearly 80% of dogs will exhibit signs of gum disease. This can be seen in the buildup of yellow and brown tartar, inflamed gums, and bad breath. Gum disease is more prevalent in small dog breeds. Food also plays a role in dog dental health. Dry food in strong chewers can help remove some plaque from the teeth slowing tooth decay and loss. There are specially formulated foods specifically for dental health. Your veterinarian can advise you on the proper diet for your dog if you are worried about its teeth. Water additives can also be used to combat teeth destroying and aging bacteria. Worn teeth can look fractured, though regular wear poses little health risk. Excessive wear can damage the root of the tooth, which can require a root canal.

Summary: Understand the structure and organization of your dog's teeth. Understand how your dog's teeth grow in. Understand how and why dog teeth wear down and decay.

Gardenias typically require an inch of rain in order to thrive, so adhere to that standard whenever watering. Monitor the soil frequently for moisture content, and water thoroughly as the top inch of the soil dries. Avoid over-watering the soil especially, because if it is kept too wet, the roots will be starved for air. Mulch is made of decayed organic matter, such as leaves, bark, or compost and can be purchased at most gardening stores. Mulch not only enriches the soil, but it will also keep your soil moist, reduce the growth of weeds, and maintain constant soil temperature. For the best outcome, select a mulch made of wood chips, sawdust, or ground bark. Applying mulch is extremely important since gardenia roots are shallow, making them especially vulnerable to weeds. Biannual fertilizing will promote healthy flower growth in your gardenia. Be sure that you feed with an acid fertilizer. The nutrients in this particular fertilizer are formulated for plants that prefer acidic soil. Applying regular fertilizer may not be sufficient for sustaining your gardenia. Beware of over-fertilizing, as this can lead to damaging salt accumulation. Now that you have taken steps to provide adequate sunlight, soil, and water, you will need to meet the gardenia's humidity requirements. Spraying with water raises the humidity around the plant, but only temporarily. Therefore, it must be done daily in order to ensure that the gardenia survives. Other than spraying, you could plant gardenias in clusters without overcrowding them. This will create a pocket of humidity. To increase the humidity even further, you could place a dish of water in the middle of the cluster. As the water evaporates, it will cover the surrounding gardenias. your gardenias in early spring to shape the bush. Deadhead after flowering to encourage more flowering. Pruning younger, dormant gardenias will cause more prolific blooming. The young plant is very resilient and will easily repair lost stems because it is not yet actively growing. Remove scraggly branches and faded flowers. Gardenias are woody shrubs, so remove older, woody stems to encourage the growth of new branches. Prune the lowest branches which are in danger of touching the ground. This can lead to infections. Don't cut all the leaves off. Some leaves need to be left so the plant can still produce food for the root system. These insects are especially attracted to gardenias and can impair growth or cause the plant to die. Mealybugs are grey, segmented pests. They feed on the sap of the gardenia and leave behind a waxy coating on the plant. This can result in twig death, impair plant growth, and cause leaves to drop prematurely. Whiteflies are tiny white insects that resemble small gnats. They produce honeydew and the black sooty mold which grows on it. This mold can cause gardenia leaves to turn yellow and drop prematurely. These solutions will kill both mealybugs and whiteflies and are available in most local gardening stores. If you are facing a large mealybug infestation, smother the gardenia with a good dose of insecticidal soap or horticulture oil. Two days after the first pass of insecticidal soap, cover the soil judiciously with a helpful fungus called Beauveria bassiana to kill any mealybugs that feed on roots. Beauveria bassiana is also available in most gardening/home improvement stores. Since gardenias are extremely sensitive to the cold, they will require adequate insulation and protection from harsh winter winds. Secure a cardboard box large enough to cover the shrub without bending the branches. Use old blankets, straw, or bubble wrap to insulate the plant while it is under the cardboard box. Despite your best efforts, the tips of the branches may die and turn black from frost or cold damage. When this happens, prune the branches a couple of inches below the damage with sharp pruning shears. Alternatively, you could transplant your gardenia to a pot and bring it inside for the winter. Though your plant will face higher chances of bug infestation, there are steps you can take to better care for your gardenia indoors.
Summary: Water gardenias with an inch of water once a week. Apply a 2 inches (5.1cm) layer of organic mulch to the gardenias. Feed the gardenias with acid fertilizer twice per year. Mist your gardenias daily with a spray bottle. Prune Monitor your gardenias for whiteflies and mealybugs. Coat gardenias with insecticidal soap or horticulture oil in case of infestation. Cover your gardenias with a blanket or cardboard box during winter cold snaps.