INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Use the 45-degree angle on your speed square to cut uniform ends off of your rafters by holding the bottom lip against the wood and cutting at an angle. Screw the lip of each rafter into the side of a single, separate joist that is the same length as your playhouse with #3 wood screws. Space your 6 rafters apart equally on each side of the joist that you're using as a center beam for your roof. You can use the same sized wood as your joists and just shave the edges off after you've installed it. A rafter is any diagonal frame that is sloped against a center beam to form a roof. To make your rafters fit perfectly on top of the walls, you'll need to cut a triangular section out of each rafter so that the wood sits flat at the angle where it meets the joist. Put your rafters on top of the house and mark the location where it sits on top of the joist on each rafter. Use the 45-degree side of your speed square as a straight edge and measuring tool to cut these pieces out of each rafter with a jigsaw. After the rafters are resting in place, adjust the placement of your rafters by lifting and moving them along the top of your playhouse so that they sit flush with the 4 walls. Fit plywood or particle board sheets over the top of your rafters and nail them into the rafters with a nail gun to close your roof. You can add trim if you'd like to by holding pieces of finished wood against the edges and nailing them into the side of each edge with your nail gun. The section between your wall and the angular roof will still be open. Measure this triangular section and add 2 inches (5.1cm) to each side of your measurement so that you can nail it into the frame where it'll rest. Measure and draw your roof siding out with a grease marker and a straight edge before cutting out your roofing material with a jigsaw or circular saw. Slide the siding behind the open area in your roof and nail it into the back of the 2 rafters and the frame at the top of the wall with a nail gun.

SUMMARY: Cut your rafters with a speed square and jigsaw. Remove the section of each rafter where it meets the joist. Hoist your rafters into place and cover the roof with plywood. Fill in your siding by measuring the open space between your roof and the wall.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Try plugging them into a surge protector and switching it off before you leave for school or work for the day. Wear warmer clothes.
Summary: Turn off the lights and electronics in a room when you aren't using them. Use natural light instead of electric light when possible. Use your electronics only when necessary. Lower your thermostat. Hang your clothes out on a drying rack rather than using an automatic dryer. Use solar panels for power.

This is always the first step when loading or handling any gun. Consult your weapon's instruction manual to locate the safety feature. Common shotgun sizes are 10, 12, 16, 20, .410 bore, and 28. Shotshell of one gauge may be fired in a shotgun of another gauge, but doing so requires a special tube. Otherwise it is best to just select the proper sized ammo for your weapon. You can also secure the stock under your arm with the gun turned sideways. Make sure that the trigger and trigger guard are positioned on the side of the shotgun facing away from you. The "business end" of the shell should be pointing toward the end of the gun barrel. The business end is the end of the shell that the shot comes out of and is opposite the metal capped end of the shell where the explosive charge is housed. When it clicks, the rim of the shell should have passed the magazine catch. You can tell the tube is full when you attempt to load a shell but it won't go in. This will strip a shell from the magazine and load it into firing position. The shotgun is now ready to fire.
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One-sentence summary -- Make sure the safety is on, the chamber unloaded, and the barrel pointed away from you in a safe direction. Determine what gauge (bore diameter) your shotgun is so you can select the right size shells. Place the butt of the stock on your left thigh while sitting. Place a single shell against the loading flap just ahead of the trigger guard. Using your thumb, push the shell straight up into the loading flap until you hear and feel a distinct click. Repeat until the magazine tube is full. Hold in the action release button and pump the slide backwards and then forwards with a reasonable amount of force to load the chamber.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Put the window well in the hole you dug and push it firmly against the walls of your foundation. Make sure that the edges of the sides of the well are about 3 inches (7.6cm) from either side of the window, and check that the top of the well extends 23 inches (5.17.6cm) above the dirt. Set a level on top of the well to see if it's straight, and pack dirt underneath the lower side if you need to. Ask someone to help you lift and set the well in place if it's too heavy to safely lift on your own. If the window well is closer than 6 inches (15cm) to your siding, dig your hole deeper until you have a 6in (15cm) buffer. Hold the window well tightly against your home and use a marker to put dots on your foundation in the center of each hole. Check that the window well doesn't shift around while you're making your marks or else the holes won't line up when you try to attach the well later on. After you draw all of the marks, take the window well out of the hole. If your window well doesn't already have holes drilled in the sides, then you may need to make your own holes. Use a 38in (0.95cm) drill bit meant for metal or plastic depending on what your well is made from, and space your holes about 5 inches (13cm) apart down each side. 2in (5.1cm) pilot holes in the foundation with a masonry bit. Use a 38in (0.95cm) masonry bit in a hammer drill to cut through your foundation. Hold the drill bit straight against one of your marks on the foundation and turn it on to cut through the concrete. Make the holes about 2 inches (5.1cm) deep so the anchors can easily fit inside. Continue drilling holes at each of your marks along the foundation wall. Put on a pair of safety glasses so you don't get hurt while drilling the holes. You can use a regular rotary drill, but it will take longer and may damage the machine. Check your local hardware store to see if they rent hammer drills so you don't need to buy one. Use masonry anchors that are 38in (0.95cm) in diameter and 178in (4.8cm) long. Unscrew the nuts from the anchor sleeves and slide the sleeves into the holes you drilled. Position the window well in front of the sleeves and screw the nuts back into the sleeves. Tighten the nuts with a socket wrench so the window well stays firmly in place. You can buy masonry anchors from your local hardware store. Caulking around the sides can help seal the window well from water to prevent more leaks. Load the caulk into a dispenser and squeeze the trigger to apply it. Work around the sides of the window well with a thin line of caulk to seal it. You don't need to caulk around the sides of the window well if you don't want to.

SUMMARY:
Set the window well against your foundation so it's level. Mark the location of the predrilled holes on your foundation with a marker. Drill Screw the window well into place using masonry anchors. Apply a line of caulk around the well if you want additional protection.