Problem: Article: No overview could offer all the specifics necessary to rebuild every kind of engine, making it essential that you refer to the manufacturer's instructions for every make and model. Get a hold of one, read it, and keep it on hand. Even if you've got an older model, shop manuals are on eBay all the time for relatively cheap, and are often available at the public library for free. If you're going to invest in the project, it's absolutely essential that you get the shop manual so that you can learn the proper specs and particularities of the engine you're dealing with. Inspect fluid sweeping out of the many plugs, sending unit connections, and joints between components. Inspect the Harmonic balancer for signs that the isolation rubber is cracking, which may suggest it needs to be replaced. Check for any signs of overheating, cracking and scorching on the block. Also check for any excessive gasket sealer left behind from previous work. Also, check the ID and casting numbers to ensure that the engine you think you are working on is actually the engine you are working on. Engine swaps are not uncommon and each engine has different specifications. Inspect the distributor for signs of looseness by putting some pressure on it. Inspect the alternator belt for signs of wear by spinning the pulley and listening for any unusual noise. Inspect the clutch assembly for wear. The exhaust manifold bolts or studs may be very corroded, take care to break them loose without damaging them. Using special lubricants for this may help, and extremely stubborn bolts may require heat to loosen. Start by removing the oil pan and the valve covers, then the cylinder heads. Be sure to protect the lifter rods when lifting the cylinder head(s), if they are bent or damaged, they will need to be replaced. You may want to use a micrometer to determine the bore diameter, very worn cylinders may be too far gone to allow a successful rebuild. If you know the engine hasn't been rebuilt previously, you can get a good idea of the wear to the cylinder walls by looking at the cylinder ridge. This is the point where the piston rings top out, the surface below the ridge is worn down the contact of the cylinder rings as they travel up and down, the tops isn't worn, so it indicates the original bore diameter. Generally, if the wear is less than 20/1000 of an inch, the original pistons can be reused, over 20/1000s will require the engine to be bored and oversized pistons to be used. The ridge is the point where metal of the cylinder did not wear because the rings do not rise that high in the bore. The cylinder wear should be below this point, but the ridge must be reamed out before removal to allow pistons to be removed and without damage and to make re-installation of the pistons with new rings possible. After removing the rod caps from the rods, place rod journal protectors (protective covers) on the rod ends and protect bolts to prevent them from striking, scraping and scoring the engine block or from bolt threads being damaged during removal and handling. Rubber fuel hose can be cut to slip over the bolt threads in this case. Once removed replace the same rod cap back on the matching rod, keep them as numbered paired/matched sets. Keep the parts marked or in order for return to the same cylinder from which they were removed. This to assure balance and fit; and consistent "break" in. Once removed store in a safe place, preferably use crank mounting plates so that you can accurately measure the crankshaft. Keep old main bearings in order, inspect them for wear and excess dirt. With the crank removed and stored correctly place the main caps back on the engine block and torque to specification. Remove the camshaft, balancer shafts, and auxiliary drives. Pay attention to end play shims and spacers, keep these organized you will need to put these back in the correct order. Remove the cam bearings, paying attention to their position. Inspect for cracks and any signs of overheating. Measure different crankshaft dimensions. These dimensions include journal diameter, out of round, taper, and run out. Compare this to the dimensions listed in the shop manual. If the crank is out of spec, mark it for identification and have it sent to a machine shop you trust with the necessary machinery for resurfacing or turning to return the bearing journals to round. If the crank is turned, make a note of the cut, bearings will need to be ordered to match the new journal diameter. Once the machine shop has reground the crank, you can use a rifle brush to remove the excess debris from the oil passages. Then measure the crankshaft again so that you can replace the bearings to get the crank to bearing clearance within specification. Remove the core plugs, brackets, guide pins, and everything else still attached to the outside of the engine block. Perform a visual inspection of the engine block itself for any cracks. If you want to, it might be a good idea to Magnaflux the engine block to look for leaks. Magnaflux should only be used to find leaks on cast iron. Use dye penetrant to find cracks on aluminum blocks. Most machine shops will perform these inspections, and may also pressure test engine blocks and cylinder heads. You may have them hot tank the engine block and cylinder head to clean it while you are at it. It's probably best to have this done at the machine shop, but if you've got the necessary tools yourself, you can use a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges to check the deck surface for flatness. Measure the both diagonally and horizontally. If the deck surface exceeds the specification for flatness resurface the block. Use caution when resurfacing not to remove too much material. If too much material is removed you risk having the pistons collide with valves. Using a dial bore gauge measure each cylinder bore's taper and for out of round. Inspect each cylinder for discoloration and washboard. Use a rigid stone hone to identify washboard. Check alignment and out of round of the main bearing bores with a dial bore gauge.
Summary: Get the shop manual for your vehicle. Perform a visual inspection of engine. Inspect the external components on the engine. Remove the exhaust manifold if it was not removed earlier to facilitate removing the engine the engine compartment. Begin disassembling the rest of the engine. Check the cylinder bores. Remove the ridge on the cylinders near the top of the bore with a cylinder reamer (rimmer). Remove piston and rod assemblies. Remove and inspect the crankshaft. Perform a visual inspection of the crankshaft. Finish disassembly. Measure the specs.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You're writing the letter to thank your customer for doing business with you, so it's no longer necessary to subject the person to advertising. Assume good rapport at this point. Make the customer feel like an insider. Phrases like "we hope to do business with you again soon" sound like tag lines; best to leave these out. Don't say something you wouldn't say to an acquaintance. Don't include a product pitch, a mention of an upcoming sale, or anything else that could be construed as an ad. Even if you're mailing dozens of letters, it's better not to use a postage machine. That's a giveaway that this thank-you note is one of many, and it will make the customer feel less special. In fact, it may mean your thank-you note will end up in the junk mail pile. Again, the more personalized you make the thank-you note, the better it will be received. If you don't have time to address envelopes, have someone else do it. Even if you're not the person actually writing out the address, the customer will be impressed to see handwriting. Make sure your phone number and address are included in the correspondence, and give the customer warm encouragement to get in touch for any reason. If your customer does contact you, be ready to meet his or her needs promptly.
Summary:
Resist the temptation to pitch your business again. Mail the letter with a real postage stamp. Address the letter by hand if possible. Provide your contact information and be open to communication.