Pet doors are sold at most retail outlets of a variety of sizes to accommodate for different animals and different door spaces. Typically, they'll be relatively simple to install, made up of only a few parts and a paper of plastic template to mark the hole you'll cut through the door. Other than the pet door kit itself, to do the job properly you'll also need: Carpenter's level Pencil or Sharpie marker Drill and half-inch drill bit Jigsaw Screwdriver Masking tape Decide where on the door you'd like the opening to be and attach the template to the door in that location. It needs to be low enough to the ground that the animal can get through it, so shorter than the pet's legs. For the most part, pet doors will be low and to the side opposite the door handle, though it depends largely on what's on the other side of the door and how you want the pet door to look. Use masking tape to attach the template to the door in the desired location, using your level to make sure the door is oriented straight and flush with the rest of the door. Use your pencil or marker to trace around the template to create the shape that you'll cut out to make room for the door. Remove the template and discard it. To get your cut started, drill completely through the door at each corner of the outline, using a half-inch drill bit. You want the hole to be big enough to maneuver your jigsaw through and cut out the space you outlined with the template. In some cases, you may have to remove the door entirely from the hinge to cut through it properly, depending on the space and the maneuverability you need. If so, you'll have to remove the hinges from the door and lay it out on some sawhorses, probably, to make the cut. Most of the time, you should be able to leave the door on the hinges. If you're right-handed, the easiest way to make the cut is usually to start in the bottom left and work counter-clockwise, going from your drill-hole to drill-hole. Insert the jigsaw in the bottom left hole and turn it on. Start making your cut across the bottom, going slowly and as smoothly as possible, from the left to the right. Don't slow down so much you start to scorch the wood. Keep it moving at a comfortable pace, but don't go so fast you bog down the motor. Let the saw do the work. Continue cutting until you get to the next hole you drilled in the bottom right corner. Turn your saw up and cut vertically, then cut back across to the left and down until you've removed the wood in the outline. With the right tool, it should be a snap and you should be left with a nice, neat, clean hole for the door. Most pet doors should come with a small ledge that you can slot through the hole, and a covering that will attach to it, sandwiching the door into the hole securely. The front side of the door frame should have a plastic flap hanging down, which will cover the hole and keep the door "closed." On the back side, the covering should have four holes around the perimeter, through which you'll attach the two sides using the screws provided. After sandwiching the frame pieces for the pet door into the hole provided, insert the screws one at a time, tightening them loosely with your fingers, before going back around to tighten them. Work your way around, tightening each screw four or five turns at a time, to clamp the two pieces together securely. Keep working until they're tight and the door won't jiggle around.
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One-sentence summary -- Get the necessary tools and pet door parts of the appropriate size. Trace the template onto the door. Drill a hole at each corner. Insert your jigsaw in the lower left corner. Continue cutting out the outline. Sandwich the two halves of the pet door through the hole. Use the provided screws to fix the door in the hole.

Stand two-three feet behind the back line. You will want to throw the ball high and step to the line in order to gain momentum for your jump. Start with your left foot forward if you are right handed, and your right foot forward if you are left handed. You will take a three step approach. Look to the positions of the players on the opposing team and try to aim your serve in the empty spaces. You want to hit the ball into "dead zones". This means that when you hit the ball, you want it to land between players, so that they have to communicate about who will hit the ball back. Position your body so that you are facing one of the dead zones. Turn your hips and shoulders toward the area. You should not have to turn your head to look at it. To do a float serve, use both hands. To make the ball spin, throw it up with your dominant hand with a topspin. Toss the ball high and in front of you. You should be able to do a approach before you hit the ball, so make sure that you throw it in front of you and high enough, so that it floats just behind the serving line. A good rule is to throw the ball the way that you like the ball to be set to you. If you like your sets low, then throw the ball lower. If you like your sets higher, throw the ball higher.
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One-sentence summary -- Position yourself. Aim your serve. Toss the ball in the air.

You'll first need a deep or wide edged wooden picture frame. You can get these from the dollar or thrift stores for next-to-nothing. Your other supplies will be Balsa wood, a ruler, double-sided tape, a pencil, paint or something to mark the wood with, a craft knife, craft glue, and backing paper. Backing paper can just be your standard drawing paper. The contents will determine the size and shape of the shadow box you end up putting together. You can put whatever you want in there as long as it fits! Many people use seaside objects such as shells, coral, pebbles. Some people make entire doll house/storefront/miniature scenes within shadow boxes. Others prefer nature objects: gumnuts, leaves, herbs, flowers, seeds, pods, etc. Take a look at other potential options below. Collectibles: Stamps, spoons, coins, stickers, etc. Scrapbooking: The shadow box provides an great display case for scrapbook elements of all kinds. Insects: Do you have a butterfly or beetle collection? A shadowbox is perfect for displaying them. Be kind to the wildlife though; a paper or photographic collection can be just as interesting Militaria: Medals, insignia, buckles, awards, badges, etc. Play around with a design in advance. That way you'll know where to glue everything in place. Arrange the actual objects on a sheet of paper about the same size as the inside of the frame, or draw the outline of the object onto blank paper to guide your arrangement later. If it doesn't have deep sides already, it won't work well for the purposes of this box. You can buy a shadowbox frame on the Internet or an arts and crafts store. You can even make your own if you want. It's really just a picture frame.
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One-sentence summary --
Gather your supplies. Decide what you'd like to place inside the shadow box first. Consider the typical shadow box contents. Arrange the objects you plan to put in the shadow box around a sheet of paper. Choose a frame that has deep sides.