INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Before you can actually build the enclosure, you'll need to measure its components. It's important to be as precise as possible with your measurements since a gap in the enclosure could make it easy for your snake to escape. Smaller snakes can be kept in a 10- or 20-gallon tank. This measures out to either 20 inches by 10 inches by 12 inches (51 by 25 by 30.5 centimeters), or up to 24 inches by 12 inches by 16 inches (61 by 30.5 by 40.5 centimeters) Medium-to-large sized snakes typically need between 30- and 55-gallon tanks. This measures out to 36 inches by 12 inches by 16 inches (91.5 by 30.5 by 40.5 centimeters) or up to 48 inches by 13 inches by 20 inches (122 by 33 by 51 centimeters). The glass or plastic panel you use as a window for the front of the enclosure should measure a few tenths of an inch (less than a centimeter) shorter than the back wooden panel. This will allow a more precise fit in the grooves that you'll dig out. Over time, the wood in your enclosure may begin to rot. It will also get dirty and may be difficult to clean if you do not stain the wood first. Staining will help protect the wood to ensure a longer life for your enclosure. Once you've assessed the size needs of your snake and determined the final dimensions, you'll be ready to cut your wood. It can be helpful to mark the sizes in chalk or pencil before cutting so that you have precise measurements and straight lines to cut along. Make sure you wear personal protective equipment (PPE) while working with wood. This includes safety glasses, gloves, earplugs, a respirator, and a padded kickback apron. Cut each piece as a solid rectangle. You only need to cut the sides, back, top, and bottom. The front face will be a glass or plastic panel held in place by the top, bottom, and sides. Before you can complete the enclosure's assembly, you'll need to make room for the glass or plastic panel and insert it into place. This will be done using a router to gouge out the wood. Dig the groove 0.5 inches (1.25 centimeters) from the face of what will be the outside wall of the enclosure. You'll need to cut grooves in the front face of the top and bottom pieces as well as down the sides. Slide the glass or plastic panel into each groove to ensure that it fits snugly in place. Use a power drill to bore holes in the sides, back, and bottom of the enclosure, then screw them into place. If your cage will open from the side, attach the back, bottom, top, and one side of the panel, leaving the opening side unattached. Make sure the grooves for the glass or plastic panel line up evenly. Before you attach the top, slide the glass or plastic panel into place so that your enclosure is complete. If you are making a side-opening enclosure, wait before attaching your chosen side's panel. Make sure there are no gaps around the glass or plastic panel. Use an adhesive that's approved for use around pets to seal up any gaps where the panel fits into your wooden frame. You can find these products at your local hardware store or through an online retailer. If you're building an enclosure that opens from the top, then you'll be attaching the top panel with hinges. If your enclosure opens from the side, then your chosen side's panel will be the opening that you affix with hinges. Measure where you will need to attach the hinges onto the opening panel (either the top or one side). Then measure where the hinges will attach to the back panel. Use a power drill to bore holes for the hinges, then screw the hinges into place. Attach hook-and-eye latches to each corner of the opening panel. It's typically a good idea to use multiple latches instead of just one since some snakes are strong enough to break through weak doors. Drill several small holes for ventilation in the opening panel (either the top or the side of your enclosure).

SUMMARY: Measure your building materials. Apply lacquer to the wood. Cut the wood to size. Dig out a groove for the glass. Assemble the enclosure. Attach the opening panel.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Shrink-free spackling won't shrink when it dries in the holes on the trim. Avoid spackling that shrinks or you could end up with dips in the holes you fill in. You can find shrink-free spackling online or at your local hardware store. You can use painter's caulk or water-based wood filler as alternatives. You don't need a lot. You just want enough on the knife to fill in a nail hole. Scoop out the spackle with the end of the knife so it's easier to press into a hole. Start with the edge of the knife on one side of the hole at a 45-degree angle. Scrape the knife across the surface of the hole to the other side. Press firmly down on the knife so the spackling completely fills in the nail hole. Scrape across the surface of the hole two or three times to make sure the spackling is flat. To smooth out the spackling and/or fill the holes, you can also use your finger. Do this immediately after you spackle all the holes in the trim so the spackling doesn't have time to dry. Check back on the spackling after a few hours to see if it's dry. If it's not, let it continue drying. If you notice a dip in the spackling inside the nail hole, apply another coat and wait 2-3 more hours for the new coat of spackling to dry. Lightly brush the sandpaper across the surface of the trim where the hole is until the spackling is flush with the trim.

SUMMARY:
Get shrink-free spackling. Scoop out some spackling from the container with a putty knife. Press the spackling on the knife into one of the nail holes. Use a damp cloth to wipe away any excess spackling around the hole. Let the spackling dry for 2-3 hours. Sand off excess spackling with a fine-grit sandpaper.