Naturally, the word "cave" is very loosely used in the case of developing a man cave. It can be the attic, an unused bathroom, the shed out the back, the garage, or the basement. Or anywhere else that's spare, has adequate elbow room, and is left currently unused or pretty much abandoned. Build a shed or dig out a basement if your options are looking thin. . Having a man cave in the house may require delicate household negotiations and compromises. You may have to agree to something in exchange for your man cave been allowed into the house. If your man cave is using up the only relaxation space, no one's going to end up happy. Try offering one of the following in exchange, if your partner or housemate is interested: Setting up another room as a sewing room, exercise room, sauna and spa, playroom, model collection space, or astronomy observatory. Promising a certain number of hours each month on household repairs, odd jobs, or chores. Arranging regular dates or family time. Man caves often start in corners of the house without insulation. Make your man cave warmer and more sound-proof by installing fiberglass or other insulation material between the wall studs. Unless your cave is in a stand-alone shed, or you're living alone, put a priority on sound proofing when choosing insulation material. You don't want your midnight sports or poker game to be interrupted by a tired spouse or neighbor. If you've been relegated to the dingiest, smallest room in the house, bright colors will give a sense of more light coming in, and more space. On the other hand, dark colors are good for home theater setups, or a relaxed bar-like atmosphere. If you couldn't care less and just think a wall is a wall, congratulations. Skipping this step is the first benefit of having a space where you get to make the decisions. Install recessed lighting or a light on a dimmer switch if you want to watch movies in your man cave. If your man cave has windows, put up blackout curtains so you can pull them closed and game at three in the afternoon without the outside world butting in.
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One-sentence summary -- Choose the space. Be prepared to negotiate Insulate and sound-proof the room. Paint or wallpaper the room (optional). Add lighting or curtains if needed.

Q: Whether you're using a new glass or one of your old favorites, it can accrue a layer of dust or dirt just sitting in storage. Make sure it's sparkly clean -- run it under soapy water and rinse it well. Allow it to adequately dry. You don't want to paint on glass that's streaky or wet. Remove any oil, dirt, soap film, or fingerprints that will mess up your paint work. Let the glass sit to dry for about 7-10 minutes after rubbing. If you don't have rubbing alcohol, use white vinegar; it has similar cleaning properties. You want a solid 3/4" (2 cm) of your rim to be paint free. As some paint is toxic, it's important not to paint on any surface that could reach your mouth. What's more, the paint will be more likely to deteriorate if it meets drink or your lips. Make sure the tape is even. If it's not perfect, it's super easy to adjust. Use masking or painter's tape for best results.
A: Wash the glass well in warm, soapy water. Clean the surface of the wine or martini glass with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Place masking tape on the rim of your glass.

Article: Turn it to the desired page. Make the page as flat as you safely can get it. Avoid cracking the spine. Make sure the page is at least as thick as the pages at the beginning and end of a typical library book. You can use this method on white or colored paper. You could also do this on the inside cover of the book. For extra protection, it might help to place several sheets of scrap paper under the page you're working on. If the page is thin like computer paper or notebook paper, use an eraser or sandpaper instead. You can find these in specialty craft stores or online. Look for a blade that's completely flat on one side with a deep bevel on the other. This will remove the ink stamp while protecting the page from damage. Don't use an X-Acto knife or butter knife. It will remove the stamp, but it will also damage the page. Position it the same way you would hold a pen or pencil. Place your grip towards the bottom of the blade. You can position the blade vertically, horizontally, or at an angle. Start with a letter or small design element in the stamp. Gently follow the shape of the letter or element as you scratch. Move in a back-and-forth motion with the tip of the blade. Be patient. This method can be time-consuming, but you will get professional results. For example, if you're removing a capital L, move the blade vertically on the long stem and horizontally on the shorter stem. As the letters or lines begin to lighten, try to erase them. Erase gently. Move in a regular motion as if you were erasing pencil marks. This will prevent damage that could come from additional scratching. Continue the process. Keep scratching out individual letters or design elements with the knife. As they lighten, you can use the eraser to remove what remains. When all marks are gone, touch up the formerly stamped area with the eraser. Use quick, yet gentle, strokes. Brush away any residual debris with the back of your hand.
Question: What is a summary of what this article is about?
Open your book. Check the thickness of the paper. Get a book repair knife. Hold the knife in your dominant hand. Begin scratching. Use an eraser to remove remnants of the ink. Touch up the area.