In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Try doing calendar time right after breakfast or while your child is having their morning snack. Whenever you decide to do it, make calendar time part of your daily routine to help your child learn the concepts of the days of the week and time.Repetition is important for teaching your child new concepts. Having a routine will also be comforting to your child and help them know what to expect each day. Direct your child's attention to holidays and other special days on the calendar, such as by using pictures and stickers. Then, point out what day of the week these special days fall on.For example, you could say, "Look! Your birthday is on a Wednesday, which is the middle of the week!" or "Halloween is on a Saturday, so we can celebrate all day long!"
Summary: Devote 5 to 10 minutes to calendar time every day. Ask your child questions about important dates on the calendar.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You will know your pods are ready to harvest when they become yellow, dry, and hard. You can harvest the pods while they are still green, but you will need to let them mature and dry completely before you can remove the beans inside. Black beans generally reach maturity and are ready for harvest 90-140 days after planting. If your black bean plant is a bush variety, all the pods should mature at the same time. If you have a vining variety, you will need to harvest the pods regularly throughout the growing season to encourage continued production. When the pods become dry and yellow, take a pair of scissors or a small pruner and snip off any mature pods. If you're not totally sure that the pods are mature, break one open and see if the beans inside are dry and black (immature beans will be moist and paler in color). You can also try biting down on a bean. If it's dry and ready to harvest, your teeth won't leave a dent. You can harvest immature or fresh beans before they are fully dry, but you can't store them for as long. Try to harvest your beans during dry weather. If your beans are almost ready to harvest but the forecast calls for a lot of rain, bring the whole plant indoors and hang it upside-down so it can finish drying inside. Once you've harvested the pods, crack them open to remove the beans inside. Spread the beans out on a flat surface and let them dry for a day or two before cooking or storing. Hand-shelling black beans can be tedious work. You may find it easiest to collect the beans if you put all the pods in a sack or pillowcase and stomp on it or hit it against a wall a few times. Your black beans will keep for up to a year if you store them properly. Keep them in a cool, dry place, and place them in an airtight container to protect them from moisture and insects.
Summary: Harvest the beans when the pods turn yellow and dry. Cut mature pods off of the bean plant. Remove the beans from the pods and let them dry. Store your dried beans in an airtight container.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You will need: Backhoe Laser transit and grade pole 4" Sch. 40 PVC pipe(and fittings if needed) 4" ASTM D2729 perforated pipe 4"ASTM D3034 pipe and fittings 4" Sch. 40 vent caps and test caps PVC primer and glue Saw (either hand saw or cordless reciprocating saw) Hammer drill and bits(to go through wall if necessary) Hydraulic cement (to seal around pipe if going through wall) Shovel Inch-and-a-half washed stone (quantity depends on system size) Tape measures (regular and also at least a 100' tape) Septic fabric (cut roll to 3' long or so) Septic tank and risers (concrete, or plastic if allowed) Con-Seal (for concrete) or silicone caulk (for plastic) to seal risers Septic filter (ex. Zoeller 170 or similar) if required. distribution box (either concrete, or plastic, if running more than two laterals.) Excavate to at least 2 feet deep and drill a hole through the wall, or go deeper and go under the footing, whichever is desired, or necessary. Plan for the flow to go downhill from here, as this is exactly what a gravity fed system is all about. It does not use a mechanical means other than gravity to discharge the waste from the tank to the drain field. Pipe 4" Sch. 40 going a foot through the wall or under the footing, and to a minimum of five feet outside the building toward the tank. Set it level where it's going through the wall or under the footing, and from there run with about an 1/8" per foot of pitch (slope) toward the septic tank. Go further or all the way into the tank if required. If not, switch to 4" 3034 with the appropriate adapter and pipe toward the tank with 3034. Be sure to put a test cap on the end going into the building. If going through the wall, seal around the hole with hydraulic cement, inside and out. Don't run too much pitch going out to the tank. If there's too much, the water runs away faster than the solids, and the solids may get left in the pipe. Also, there may not be enough pitch to get to the drain field, depending on the depth your drain field is, and how close it will be to the outlet of the tank. Use the laser transit and "shoot" the top of the pipe going out to the tank. Measure the distance from the top of the inlet, to the bottom of the tank. Add this (go up on the grade pole) plus 1 1/2" to the number you shot off the top of the pipe. The grade pole is now set to the depth that you need. Proceed to use this to excavate the hole to the appropriate depth. Lay out and excavate your leech field as it has been determined by the test done in the permit process. When laying out and excavating, remember to maintain a positive flow between the tank and the drain field. This is required to hold the pipe steady. See your local health requirements for the size of embedment needed and the size of gravel. The perforated pipe in a gravity drain field has no slope end to end and has capped ends. All areas depending on the rules of the local health department will require a special filter fabric, newspaper, four inches of straw or untreated building paper to cover the drain rock before backfilling.
Summary:
Assemble the equipment and tools needed for excavation. Find where you want to go into the building relative to where you want to place the septic tank. Excavate a hole large enough to set the concrete aerobic tank below ground. Place (in most jurisdictions) "inch-and-a-half washed drain rock" from a nearby gravel pit around the pipe. Cover up the pipe and tank once you have a green tag from the health inspector.