Write an article based on this "Check your version of Word. Insert a text box. Type in the text box. Click the circle above the text box. Drag to rotate the box. Hold Shift for cleaner rotating. Use menu options instead."
article: This method covers Word 2007 or later on a Windows, and Word 2011 or later on a Mac. If you don't know your version number, here's an easy test: if there's a "ribbon menu" of icons above your open document, follow these instructions. If there's no ribbon menu skip to the next method instead. If you only see a row of tabs labeled "Home," "Layout," etc., click on one of these tabs to expand the ribbon menu. Click the Text Box button on the ribbon menu. This is under the Insert or Home tabs, depending on your version of Word. Click on the text box and type in the text you'd like to rotate. Notice that clicking on the text box makes a border appear. Look for a line that extends above the border of the text box, ending in a circle. Click and hold this circle. Move your cursor while holding down on the circle to rotate the text box. After rotating, when you click the box to edit the text, it may snap back to the normal orientation. This is just to make it easier for you to see what you're doing. It should return to the position your chose after you click outside the box. Hold down Shift while rotating to limit the possible positions. This makes it easier to rotate to even 45 or 30 angles, and to make parallel text boxes. If you're having trouble achieving the look you want, try rotating using menu commands instead: Double-click the text box to open the Format ribbon menu, or select the Format tab. Click the Text Direction button in the ribbon menu. In some versions this is a small, unlabeled button with an image of vertical text. Select one of the options from the drop-down menu.

Write an article based on this "Begin in spring or summer. Select a branch with at least two leafy nodes. Acquire a root stimulator (optional with the softwood method). Prepare small pots or a starting tray of special soil. Cut the branch with a sharp, clean knife. Cut off all but the top cluster of leaves. Dip the base of the cutting in a root stimulator (optional with the softwood method). Plant the cuttings in the prepared containers, and water thoroughly. Keep damp and shaded, but gradually expose to less water and more sun. Transplant into a larger pot or the ground once roots develop."
article: Take the cuttings during the warm growing season, or roots may fail to form. Cuttings have the best chance to become established if you cut them early in springtime, but if you want additional flowers, you may wait until early or mid summer, then take the cuttings after the plant has bloomed. Waiting later than mid summer is not recommended unless you live in an area with late or no frosts, as the plant needs at least six weeks to grow roots before the ground freezes. "Nodes" are the clumps on a branch from which a cluster of leaves sprout. Select a young branch, low on the plant, with at least two nodes. There are two different methods of selecting a branch: Softwood cuttings use only soft, new-growth material from this year, that has not yet become brown and woody. These cuttings will grow fastest, but are only usable if the soft material is at least 5 in. (12 cm) long, and includes at least two leafy nodes. Hardwood cuttings include woody, brown stem material, but must also have at least an inch or two (2.55 cm) of soft, new growth at the tip. These require a root stimulator to encourage root growth, available at a gardening store. A root stimulator is necessary for growing hardwood cuttings. It is optional for softwood cuttings, since the young stem will grow roots without it. A root stimulator may be useful for a softwood cutting if you removed it from the mother plant late, less than six weeks before the first expected frost. Check the label and ingredients of a root stimulator before purchasing. Select a root stimulator that contains a root hormone, not just fertilizer and vitamin B1. Prepare a seed starting tray or small flowerpots to place the cuttings in for the first few weeks after cutting. Because plants without roots are sensitive to both drought and excessive moisture, use a special mix of 50% organic compost and 50% perlite to retain water at the correct level. Similar mixes sold at gardening stores can be used as well, such as a mix of sphagnum moss and perlite. Terra cotta flowerpots are preferable to plastic ones due to their "breathability," especially if you soak the flowerpot in water overnight before continuing to the next step below. Sharpen and clean a knife if necessary, to prepare for a tidy cut with low chance of infection. Slice off the selected branch just below a leafy node, removing a cutting at least 5 in. (13 cm) long, including at least two leafy nodes. The longer the cutting is, and the more nodes it has, the more likely it is to be successful. Using scissors is not recommended, as they may pinch the stem and make it more difficult for roots to emerge. Leave the top cluster of leaves alone, as they will provide energy for the new plant. Use your knife to cut all other leaves off the plant, so it directs its energy at root development rather than excessive foliage growth. Be careful not to damage the bark while removing the leaves. Follow the instructions on the label of the root stimulator to dilute it to the correct strength, if your root stimulator is concentrated or in powdered form. Dip the bottom inch (2 cm) of the cutting, at the cut end, into the prepared root stimulator solution. Plant the cuttings in the containers you prepared earlier, just deep enough to keep them steady. Give them a generous quantity of water immediately after planting, relative to the small size of the container. Overwatering is a common mistake for new lavender cuttings. After the initial soaking, only water the cuttings when the soil begins to dry out, not when the soil is still moist. Shade will help minimize damage from the stress of transplanting for the first several days, but after this the plant can be moved incrementally to brighter environments. Greenhouse environments may be too damp for lavender cuttings. However, if the cutting is looking limp or dry after one or two days, moving it to a greenhouse or under a plastic bag may help it retain moisture until it develops roots. After at least three weeks, and more commonly six weeks or more, strong roots will have developed in the small pot or starting tray. Once the roots have bound the soil together in the container, you can move this soil and the lavender plant into a larger flowerpot or flower bed. Plant in rich, well-draining soil and care for it as you would any lavender plant.

Write an article based on this "Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F (218 degrees C). Remove green beans from the freezer. Drizzle the green beans with oil. Season the beans with salt and pepper. Place the green beans in the oven. Remove the green beans from the oven."
article:
Take them out of the freezer bag and spread them in an even layer over a baking sheet. Some of the beans may be frozen together in clumps; separate them as much as you can using your fingers and a fork. Olive oil, sesame oil, peanut oil and grapeseed oil are all good choices. Sprinkle lightly with other seasonings if you wish, like cayenne pepper, cumin, chili powder, garlic powder, oregano, or any other spices that you like with vegetables. Toss the green beans to make sure they are thoroughly coated. Cook them for ten minutes, then remove them from the oven and use a spatula to stir them around. Place them back in the oven and cook until parts of them look brown and crispy, about five more minutes. Add additional seasonings or grated cheese if desired. Serve hot.