Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Use a hammer and masonry chisel to break up the bulk of the plaster. Pry off clinging sections using a crowbar or putty knife. Go over the freshly-exposed wall with a wire brush.

Answer: Start at the spot your tested earlier and position the tip of the chisel against the wall at a downward angle. Hit the back end with your hammer to drive the blade into the plaster and separate it from the brick. Continue chiseling one patch at a time, working your way inward from the edges. Alternatively, you can take care of the demolition phase with only a crowbar if you don't have a suitable masonry chisel. Use the rounded end for smashing and the pointed end for prying. There's no need to be delicate here, but don't get carried away, either. The idea is to use enough force to loosen the plaster without damaging the underlying brick. If you're lucky, you'll send large chunks of plaster raining down with each strike of your chisel. If not, you'll need to give it a little encouragement. Wedge the tip of your crowbar or putty knife beneath the outer edge of stubborn sections and pull back forcefully to coax them free of the wall. You're more likely to remove the plaster in broad sheets using slow, controlled strokes than you are using quick, choppy ones. Keep a few large plastic tubs or buckets on standby to catch the plaster as it comes off of the wall. Once you've successfully removed plaster, give the entire surface a thorough scouring, applying moderate pressure with your brush. This will loosen any remaining debris that's too small to get at with your crowbar or putty knife. Work from top to bottom to avoid spreading more dust to sections you just brushed. If you notice your wire brush leaving scratches in the brick, one solution is to buff them out using a power drill fitted with a wire brush bit. Unlike the handheld brush, the rotary bit spins a circular direction, erasing conspicuous lines and scratches.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Open the voicemail app on your device. Dial ##004# and press Send. Set your voicemail speed dial number.

Answer: It's the app that has an icon with two circles with a line connecting them. You'll only need to use this method if you were unable to revert back to your provider's original voicemail service before disabling the Youmail app. This dials the code you need to return to your carrier's voicemail. Use one of the methods below to return to set your voicemail speed dial number. If you are an AT&T user, set your voicemail speed dial number to your cell phone number. Your device should now revert back to the default AT&T voicemail. If you are a T-Mobile subscriber set the voicemail speed dial number to (805) 637-7243. Your device should now revert back to the default T-Mobile voicemail.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Practice your seat aid at home before trying on the horse. Build the horse's expectation to halt through with a trot-to-walk exercise. Evolve your half-halt signal from a halt.

Answer: In a seated position, push downward with your lower back and rear end as though you were on a swing and pushing it forward. This helps you get used to the half-halt signal. When you're ready, practice on the horse in a walk: squeeze your seat and apply just a light pressure to the reins. If the horse halts, reward it by gently scratching him and praising him. Keep practicing this until the horse responds to the seat aid with minimal (or no) rein pressure. When you've mastered that, repeat those steps from a trot. If the horse is confused, you can return to the walk-halt exercise to reinforce the meaning of the signal. This simple exercise can help make the half-halt signal clear. In a way, both you and the horse are learning at the same time. In a dressage arena, ask for a transition from trot to walk at A, E, C and B. Walk a few strides only, move back to a trot. Repeat this for a few circuits. The horse will quickly learn the pattern and expect to slow down at the given letters. Next, at those letters begin to ask for a transition to walk, but at the last minute change your mind and stay in the trot. This method lets you give a small suggestion of half-halt, and since the horse is expecting the signal, he is likely to respond. When you tell him to continue, he'll rebalance and move forward. Like the above exercise, this builds the horse's expectation of a change, this time working from a full halt. Try this if your horse doesn't respond to the exercise in Step 2, or use the two exercises in combination. Signal a full halt and let the horse rest for two minutes. Trot about 40 yards (37m), then signal another full halt, resting again for two minutes. After trotting another 40 yards (36.6m), start your halt signal, but as soon as you feel the horse shifting downward, drive him forward.

Problem: Write an article based on this summary: Teach your dog to go into the box on command first. Place your dog in the box and give a command like "use the box". Wait for your dog to leave, and put him back in. Have your dog enter the box with the "use the box" command alone.

Answer:
Before your puppy or adult dog learns to eliminate in his litter box, he'll need to be able to enter it on his own. You need to teach him that it is a safe, even fun space. Praise the dog for being in the box. Repeat your command, and again, praise your dog and act happy that he is in the box. Keep practicing until you are able to guide your dog into the box while giving the "use the box" command. Once your dog is comfortable being guided into the box, try using only your verbal command. Be patient and don't repeat yourself. If your dog does not get in, simply walk away and try again later, or go back to guiding. If your dog does get in on command, praise him profusely. Keep practicing until he gets in immediately on command.