One of the best places to put a trap is in the holes rabbits use to enter your property. If your fence has openings that rabbits use regularly, fit the loop of your snare right in the hole and wait for them to come back. Rabbit trails will show grass that has been stepped down repeatedly, little tracks in the dirt, and patches of mud. If you could walk through it, then rabbits will likely use it at some point to navigate the forest. Look for openings in tall grass, muddy paths, or known rabbit holes. Trapping is a numbers game; the more snares you set, the more rabbits you will get. Separate them by a few hundred yards to increase your chances of successful capturing. The snare works by catching the rabbit mid-hop so that it pulls the snare tight as it returns to the ground. You want your snare to be 6-8 inches off of the ground. Remember that a rabbit needs to fit its head and ears into the trap. Most rabbits are 6-7 inches big from nose to ear tips. Constantly checking in on your trap scares away wildlife, so be patient. After one day has passed, return to the trap to check if it caught anything. If not, leave and return the next day. If you have still not caught anything, adjust the height of the snare or move it.
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One-sentence summary -- Set up traps near fence holes. Place traps near small, beaten paths. Set multiple traps for the best results. Make sure your snares are the right height. Return to your traps after 24 hours.

Sweet peas will do best if they get an early start. As soon as the soil can be worked in the late winter or early spring, get ready to plant the seeds. In climates with mild winters where the ground doesn't freeze, you can actually plant the seeds in October or November to have early spring flowers. Sweet peas like full sun, but they also need to have their roots kept cool. An ideal place for sweet peas is an area that gets full sun, but that has low-growing plants nearby to keep the roots shaded. Dig a long row in the garden where you want to plant the sweet peas. The trench should be about 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Use the sharpened end of a pencil to poke holes in the soil inside the trench, and then drop a single seed into each hole. Cover the holes with a bit of soil and press down to encase the seeds with soil.
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One-sentence summary -- Plant the seeds in late winter or early spring. Select a sunny site with cool soil. Plant the seeds.

Even though you scraped away excess mortar, there is almost certainly some leftover on the blocks. The washing process removes all of these imperfections, but not until the mortar has set. Give it 2-3 hours before you start washing. This set time only makes the mortar strong enough for scrubbing. The mortar won't reach it's full strength until it's set for several weeks. This job may take several hours, meaning that the first blocks you laid are dry enough for cleaning as soon as you complete installing the blocks. Dip a sponge in a bucket of plain, warm water and scrub any spots on the blocks that have mortar on them. Thin layers of mortar should come off easily with water and light scrubbing. Dip the sponge back into the bucket periodically to wash off excess mortar. Only use plain water at this point. The mortar is not dry enough to handle cleaning from solvents or other chemicals. This wipes up any moisture and removes any remaining mortar remnants. Work in a circular motion and cover both sides of the block surface. Once the job is complete, leave the mortar to dry. Don't do any additional cleaning or maintenance until the mortar has fully cured. Avoid doing any construction near the blocks, or the vibrations could knock them out of place. If the blocks are outside, cover them with plastic to prevent rain from getting on them. Different mortar may have different set times. Always check the instructions on the product you use for the specific dry time. After the mortar dries completely, start cleaning the glass blocks once a week. Make a solution of warm water and mild soap. Dip a fine cloth or sponge into the water and scrub the blocks in a circular motion. Then use a squeegee to wipe the water off. Remember to clean both sides of the installation.
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One-sentence summary -- Let the mortar set for 2-3 hours before washing the blocks. Scrub the blocks with a wet sponge. Run a dry cloth over the blocks after cleaning them. Let the mortar cure for 14-21 days. Maintain your glass blocks by cleaning them once a week.

Washing your pet will kill the fleas that may be living on it. Prepare your pet for the bath by applying the flea soap near the pet's ears, eyes, nose, mouth, and butt. When fleas feel water, they immediately look for safe places on the pet to hide out, such as around the neck, on the head, and near the anus. Do this before you get the pet wet. There may be a host of other fleas in various stages of their life cycle waiting to hop onto your pet, so be sure to use this method with other preventative measures, such as vacuuming, borate mixes, and cedar chips. and let the solution stand for at least 10 minutes. After you've applied the soap to the pet's vulnerable areas, get the pet wet and lather its whole body up. Once the 10 minutes have passed, wash all of the soap out of the pet's fur with warm water. Then, once the pet is dry, comb out the dead fleas. Take a shower immediately after washing your pet because some flea shampoos can cause irritation when left on human skin for prolonged periods of time. Flea products, such as Advantage or Frontline, are spot-treatments that are applied to pets monthly. Usually, these spot-treatments are dropped directly onto the skin of your pet, usually between the shoulder blades and at several spots down the spine. The treatment will then work its way through the skin (integumentary system). You can purchase pet-friendly flea products at your local pet store. You can use flea products in conjunction with a fine-toothed flea comb. Use a flea comb to pull off individual fleas from the pet's fur. This will prevent flea adaption to the treatments. You may find that some of the standard flea treatments are ineffective because the local flea population has adapted to a particular treatment (including the chemicals in flea collars). In this case, switch among other treatments and use an insect growth regulator (IGR) such as Nylar. For example, if a flea collar isn't working, try scrubbing your pet with flea powder. Your veterinarian will sell oral tablets that you can give your pet. These tablets attack the flea's nervous system via the bloodstream and tissue of your dog or cat. While they kill all the fleas feeding on your pet, they do not prevent fleas. The use of an IGR will not allow propagation of succeeding generations and will prevent, in large measure, fleas adapting to the treatments. Flea tablets are given orally and take effect within several hours. Flea tablets kill off all of the fleas on an animal within about 60 minutes. However, the tablets are not preventative and will not make your pet immune to becoming infested with fleas a second time. Once the tablet has killed off the fleas, wash the animal to rid it of the dying fleas if you see the animal scratching. Some cats may become hyperactive, vocalize more, or show panting when given flea tablets. If this happens, try cutting the recommended dose, but you may have to discontinue use of tablets with sensitive cats. Since fleas feed on the blood of animals, you can treat fleas by manipulating what your pet eats. For example, mix vinegar into dogs' water. Mix a tablespoon of apple-cider vinegar into the dog's water bowl, or bathe the animal using water and vinegar. Don't try this with cats, as their pH is much more sensitive than dogs'.
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One-sentence summary --
Wash your pet every day with flea soap and water. Work in the soap Use a flea product on your cat or dog. Rotate types of treatments if the first is ineffective. Administer a flea tablet orally to rid your pet of a flea infestation quickly. Add deterrents to the pet's meal.