Problem: Article: If they're bigger than you are, you'll need to cut down the edge and resew them to your size, but it'll still work! And any material will work, too. Jeans, slacks, khakis -- it's all good. Remember to leave 2" for a seam allowance or your skirt will be a bit shorter than you want it to be. Keep the part that's cut off (that is, the legs) -- that'll be what goes between the "legs" of your skirt, filling out the middle. Do it all the way around until 1/4" (.6 cm) below the crotch on both sides. You'll need your handy dandy seam ripper for this part. It'll take some time, so throw on your pajamas and the TV and get comfy. This is the most tedious part. It's all downhill from here! All those exposed seams? They need to go away! Fold them under (1/2" or so) and pin them to the inside. Do this on both sides, all the way around. You should have a clean, streamlined "V" on both sides, even and mirroring each other. Don't skip this step! It may seem a bit unnecessary, but your material will be much, much easier to work with if it's flat and all the kinks are worked out. You'll also be able to see if your lines are straight and your angles are how you want them. Turn your skirt inside out and pin the pant leg (the one you cut off) all the way around, covering the "V." Cut it so it covers the entirety of the opening, pinning it in place so it doesn't go anywhere. You'll need to do this for both sides, by the way, unless you want a crazy big (read: totally inappropriate) slit up the back (or front!) of your skirt. Go up both sides, sewing as close as possible to the edges where the fabrics meet. This can be done by hand, but will be much simpler with a sewing machine. Since you have that new cut at the bottom of your skirt (it's actually a skirt now!), you'll need to get it clean and looking pretty. Grab 1/2" (1.25 cm) of the edge of the fabric and tuck it under, creating a hem. Iron it down and sew (again, as close to the edge as possible), creating a nice, clean line. You probably have some extra fabric on the insides of your seams that can do to be cut off. After that, grab your iron one last time, and give 'er a final press. Tada! It may not be water into wine, but it's pretty dang nifty!
Summary: Grab a pair of pants, any size. Measure to your desired length and cut. Rip out all the stitches from the edges of the leg to the crotch. Fold the edges under and pin. Iron. Take a cut pant leg. Turn it right side out and sew around the edges, starting at the bottom. Hem the skirt and press. Trim off any extra fabric and give it a final press.

INPUT ARTICLE: Article: Fold boning casing tape so that the long edges of the tape meet in the center of the backside of the tape. Then, stitch the tape to the center of each corset panel to create 3/8 inch wide boning channels, or if you want less seams on the front of your corset you can stitch it along the already made seams. You can also use 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide strips of fabric if you don't want to purchase casing tape. Take the inside of the right side of your corset, draw a stitching line in chalk 5/8 inch from the edge of your corset. Then, line your eye busk (the side with the hooks) up with your sewing line, leaving 3/4 inch from the top edge of your corset, making sure you are looking at the back of the busk. Sew along the busk, attaching it to your corset. The busk is the piece with the "eyes or hooks" that the knobs or pins hook into on the front of your corset to attach it together (and will prevent you from having to untie the lacing on the grommet area each time you want to put on your corset). You can buy busks at a sewing or craft store. Taking small metal knobs or pins that fit into your busk holes, line them up with the busk on the right. Then stick them through the left side of the fabric near the edge and connect them completely to the fabric by attaching them with a stitch on the back. This is what will close up your corset and hide any ragged edges of the fabric. To use faux leather or real leather as your binding, place clear, water-soluble dressmaking tape along the bottom outside corner of one panel of your corset. Then, press the binding onto the tape, fold it over the edge, and tape to the inside of your corset as well. You can also use satin, cotton, or another type of pre-made bias binding. Use your sewing machine to straight-stitch the taped binding into place. For now, you should only add binding to the bottom. You need to add your boning to the corset before you can finish the top. Measure the length of the bone channels and cut spiral steel flats to the length of your corset leaving about 1/4 inch edge from the top and bottom of your corset, and insert bones into bone channels. You can cut these bones yourself or buy pre-cut bones (which is sometimes much easier). You can also use spring steel flats, but spiral steel flats will do a better job of following all of the curves of your corset. To prevent rough edges of the bones you can use durable hot glue or craft glue to tip the bones. Use the same taping and sewing technique you applied to the bottom edge of the corset to bind the top of the corset with additional, matching binding.

SUMMARY: Create boning channels. Sew on the right busk. Sew on the knobs. Attach the bottom binding. Stitch the binding on. Add bones. Bind the top edge.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Remove the cheese from the cheese press after the 24 hours pass. Place it on a cheese board and let it dry for 2 to 5 days. The cheese should dry at room temperature. Keep it in a fairly light, dry location and away from excess humidity or moisture. The exact amount of time it takes to dry the cheese will vary depending on how humid the air is. When ready, the cheese should be dry to the touch. It should have also developed a protective rind. Cheese wax prevents hard cheeses, like cheddar, from drying out and growing mold as they age. Prepare the cheese for waxing by wiping the surface with a small piece of cheesecloth dipped in white vinegar. This will get rid of any visible or unseen mold. Chill the cheese in your refrigerator for a few hours before you apply the wax. Remove a 4-inch by 4-inch (10-cm by 10-cm) piece of cheese wax. Place the cheese wax in the top part of a double boiler and fill the bottom with water. Heat it over medium heat until it melts and reaches about 210 degrees Fahrenheit (98.9 degrees Celsius). Dip a natural bristle brush into the melted wax and coat the wheel of cheese with the wax, working with one surface at a time. Let the wax on one surface cool before waxing another surface. You should apply at least two coats of wax over the entire surface. Let dry completely. Place the cheese in your refrigerator and store it there for at least 60 days before enjoying. The cheese should ideally sit at a temperature between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12.8 to 15.6 degrees Celsius). If you prefer a sharper flavor, age the cheese for 3 to 24 months. The longer you age the cheese within this time frame, the sharper the flavor will be. Ages and flavors: Mild: 3-4 months Sharp 4-12 months Extra Sharp 2 years Older cheeses are just referred to by age
Summary:
Let the cheese air dry. Wax your cheddar cheese. Let the cheese age in your refrigerator. Finished.