In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Before cleaning your fountain, it's best to turn it off and take the pump out to make cleaning easier. You can also remove any items in the fountain, such as large rocks. Always check your manual before cleaning, as different fountains may require different cleaning methods. Before you take out the pump, you can connect a hose to it and use it to pump the water out of the fountain into a bucket or outside. For smaller fountains, you can just dump the water out. For larger fountains, a shop vac may be easier to remove the water from the fountain. If the fountain is small, it may be easiest to bring it into a sink to clean. If it's larger, you'll need to clean it outside. A toothbrush or other soft brush is perfect for this purpose. Use a mild soap such as dishwashing soap or even CLR to clean the fountain. If your fountain is copper, make sure you only use a very soft rag on it. Keep going until the fountain is clean. If you are having trouble removing algae, you can buy products specifically made for breaking down algae. Consider wiping the fountain down with a mild bleach solution to help keep new growth from happening. If you encounter any filters that look dirty, clean or replace them. Clean smaller fountains more often (once a month) and larger fountains less often (every other month or so). In a sink, unscrew the side of the pump that comes off, which should show you the impeller. You can use the same brush you used on the fountain to clean the impeller. Get all the debris out you can, and then replace the pump in the fountain. If your fountain has hard water buildup, use a special product to help remove it, such as CLR. You can also use a mixture of half white vinegar, half water. Let the fountain soak in the solution, and then scrub it again with a gentle brush or sponge. Use a dry rag to wipe off any leftover solution before you fill the fountain with new water.
Summary: Turn off the fountain. Drain the water out of the fountain. Scrub the fountain. Clean the pump. Descale the fountain.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: You will probably want between 1.5 and 3 yards of each fleece. You can choose any color or pattern you desire. You can mix and match patterns and solids by using a single color on one side of the blanket and a patterned print on the other. In this case you will need one piece of each style you plan to use. Make sure that the rough sides of the fleece are facing one another and that the fuzzy sides are facing outward. Use the lines on your template to ensure a straight cut. Place it in one corner of the blanket and cut the fleece around it so that a square is cut out of the corner. Repeat for the remaining three sides of the fleece. Pin the tape measure down so that it doesn't move. Usually 1-inch strips are used. Only cut to just below the tape measure line. You should now have fringes along all sides of the fleece. Complete for each fringe on the blanket.
Summary: Measure out two strips of fleece material as big as you want your blanket to be. Lay your first piece of fleece with the rougher side facing up and then lay the second yard of fleece on top, soft side facing up. Place a self healing mat under the fleece and use a rotary cutter to cut off the rough edges of the fleece. Cut a 4-inch by 4-inch square out of thick paper. Take your tape measure and lay it across the fleece from the top of one right angle to the other so that there is a 4-inch strip of fleece below the tape measure. Cut the 4-inch section into strips any thickness you want using your scissors or rotary cutter. Repeat for the remaining three sides of the fleece, making sure to pin the tape measure in place. Separate the top layer of fleece from the bottom layer of fleece for each fringe and tie the two together in a double knot.

In one sentence, describe what the following article is about: Concrete is mixed by adding together Portland cement, sand, and coarse aggregate (gravel) together in a ratio of 1:2:4. Water is added to the dry mixture to bind all the components together. In a concrete mixer, add the determined amount of water and then the concrete mix. You can also mix this in a wheelbarrow with a shovel. Use as little water as possible. Water makes the concrete more maneuverable but it also weakens the constitution of the final product. A drier mix makes the concrete more crack resistant. Turn on the machine. The mix will become smooth and consistent. Shut off the machine. You can sometimes get a truck to pour concrete straight into your form; otherwise, load it into wheelbarrows and tilt them into the form until the high point is reached. While doing this, enlist some helpers to spread out the concrete with shovels, rakes and "come alongs," which is a special concrete rake. Starting at the uphill point, use a screeding tool to flatten out the wet concrete. Screeding involves jiggling a wide plank of wood back and forth, if possible immediately over the forms, to create a flat surface. Work your way from top to bottom, gently screeding until you have a flat surface. Your concrete surface won't be finished yet, but it will begin to look more complete and professional looking at this point. At this point, you should move fairly quickly as the concrete will set fast. Your floating process will contain two steps: Use a large floating device, also known as a bull float, to press down aggregate and help the cream (gravel-free concrete) rise to the surface. Do this by moving the bull float away from you, keeping the tailing edge slightly elevated, and then moving the bull float back towards you, keeping the leading edge slightly elevated. Use a magnesium hand float to go over the surface. After some of the water bleeds to the surface, use long sweeping motions with your hand float. Line up a plank as a straight edge to make periodic joints in the concrete. These joints will help the concrete withstand cracking due to temperature changes. Cut the joints about a quarter of the thickness of the concrete. Use a broom to sweep across the surface, creating designs. This will provide traction on the concrete so it is not as slippery when wet. A soft brush can also be used for a different texture that is less rough. For a smoother surface, but one that still has a pattern to it, you can use the trowel and slide it over the surface in a circular motion. Make sure the grooves are not so deep that water stands on the surface. Standing water will compromise the integrity of the concrete. If moving the broom over the concrete causes clumps of concrete to aggregate on your broom, it's too early to broom. Move over the concrete again with the magnesium floater to smooth out the pattern left by the broom, then try again later. Concrete should be left to cure for 28 days, with the initial day being the most critical. As soon as the concrete has been poured, professionals usually recommend sealing the concrete. The sealant will help the concrete cure, as well as prevent cracks and discoloration. Although concrete is often thought of an a no-hassle surface, it benefits from regular maintenance. Regular soap and water maintenance will help keep the concrete looking its best, while occasional seals (~ every five years) can help keep the concrete from getting damaged through use.
Summary:
Mix your concrete. Pour the concrete into the mold. Screed the top of the concrete. Float the newly-screeded surface to further compact the concrete. Make control joints every 5 o 6 feet (1.8m) with a groover. Create traction. Cure and seal the concrete. Maintain your concrete.