Q: Assemble all the pieces as directed according to your pattern's instructions. Pin the pieces in place to prevent them from moving around as you sew. You could also loosely baste (temporary stitches intended to be removed) the pieces together to accomplish the same result. If your seams are trued, meaning that they match properly, you might be able to match up the top edges and guide the machine as you form seams without using pins or basting. Using a very small straight stitch, stitch your pieces together in order of the pattern. Start from top to bottom and go very slowly down the fabric, making sure the fabric doesn't shift or bunch. When you are finished, you should have two halves of your corset. Make sure when sewing pieces together that you are sewing the right pieces together. It could help to number the pieces on the back with a piece of white chalk. Once all the seams have been stitched, you should press them open toward the back. They should lie flat when done. Trim off excess fabric if necessary to prevent bunching. Note that you could also press the seams open as you go along. You won't be sewing your corset together past this point, you'll be using the busks and grommet area to attach it together, so you'll want all of the edges of your corset to have a nice clean seam. Make sure not to sew the top and bottom of your corset, as this will be sewn with binding. Cut two pieces of waist tape for the two halves of your corset, with no stretch. Lay the waist tape across the line of most tension in your corset (you can figure this out by pulling your corset to find the tension). Sew the waist tape to the seam allowance on the back of your corset, basting it in place along the line of the tape. Waist tape can be twill tape, a sturdy ribbon, or tailor's tape of 5/8 inch or 7/8 inch width. To find the measurements for your waist tape, use your desired waist measurement, add two inches and then divide by two, cutting the two pieces to equal the final measurement. When sewing your waist tape, make sure it lines up on both halves of your corset by lining up your corset on one side.
A: Pin your pieces together. Sew the pieces together. Press each seam open. Sew sides of the fabric to prevent ragged edges. Stitch the waist tape in place.

Q: Traditional top hat material is no longer manufactured, but there are several modern day alternatives you can choose from. When looking for a material to use, gravitate toward fabrics that are fairly stiff and heavy. Light, floppy material will produce a floppy hat. Craft felt is one of the most popular options you can use. It is easy to find, affordable, easy to work with, and comes in a range of colors. Polar fleece and tightly-woven wool are other possible options. Fosshape, buckram, and plastic canvas can be a little harder to find and a little more expensive, but they also tend to be a little stiffer and may produce a more pleasing result when all is said and done. If you cannot find these materials in the color you want, you can paint or dye them that color. You will need to cut out two round circles of equal proportions. The longest diameter of these circles should be about 15 inches (38 cm). The brim pieces will be stacked and sewn together to create a double layer. This is done so that the brim has more structure and support. If you only use one piece of material for the brim, it may lack the structure it needs to be convincing. The flue is the tall, chimney-like portion of the top hat that creates the signature look of the style. You will need to cut out two rectangular flue pieces of equal proportions. The length should be 6 1/2 inches (16.5 cm) and the width should be 24 inches (61 cm). Like the brim, the "flue" will also consist of a double layer of fabric for the purpose of providing adequate support. Without this double layer, the top hat is likely to sink or fold over on itself once you place it on your head. If you would like to create a more playful version of the top hat, you can also cut out separate bands in alternating colors to form the flue. Stitch the bands together lengthwise so that they form a single flue piece with a height of 6 1/2 inches (16.5 cm). You only need to cut out one piece of material for the top of the hat. Cut a circle that is 8 inches (20.3 cm) in diameter. Unlike the brim and the flue, the top piece or "lid" does not need to have much structure, so you only need one piece of fabric for it. If you do not like the look of a single layer, however, you can double this part of the hat up, as well, by adding a second piece of equal dimensions.
A: Choose your material. Cut the brim pieces. Cut the "flue" pieces. Cut the top piece.

Q: If your family doctor thinks you have a restrictive lung disease, they will refer you to a respiratory (lung) specialist, also known as a pulmonologist, for further testing. The pulmonologist may conduct a helium dilution test. This inert gas dilution method uses helium to directly identify your residual lung volume. To start the test, you'll exhale normally and then be connected to a closed system containing known volumes of helium and oxygen. Once connected, you breathe in the helium and the amount exhaled is measured. The difference between the two volumes of helium is a pretty accurate estimate of your residual lung volume. Helium is an inert, colorless, odorless, tasteless gas and is non-toxic to your lungs, so there are no health concerns related to this exam. This technique may underestimate residual lung volume because it measures only the lung volume that communicates with the airways. This can be problematic for patients with severe airflow limitation. You will also need a referral to a pulmonologist to have this test done, which measures the air remaining in your conducting airways. To start the test, you'll exhale normally and then be connected to a spirometer that contains 100% oxygen. You'll then breath in deeply and exhale as strongly as you can, and the spirometer will measure the amount of exhaled nitrogen compared to the entire volume of exhaled air. The halfway point of the percentage of exhaled nitrogen allows the doctor to figure out the amount of gas you expelled, which is equal to the residual lung volume. Recall that the air we normally breathe in is about 21% oxygen and 78% nitrogen. This test forces you to breathe 100% oxygen and then measures the amount of nitrogen exhaled, a predetermined percentage of which represents residual lung volume. Like the helium dilution technique, nitrogen washout can also underestimate residual lung volume in patients with severely restricted airflow. This very accurate method for measuring residual lung volume uses a plethysmograph, which is an enclosed instrument (a small chamber you sit in) used for recording an organ's volume change. Once inside an airtight plethysmograph it sort of looks like a small phone booth you'll be asked to normally exhale, then inhale against a closed mouthpiece. As your chest wall expands, the pressure within the plethysmograph rises, which is calculated. Then you'll exhale as hard as you can out through the mouthpiece. The difference in pressures represent your residual lung volume. Body plethysmography uses Boyle's gas law (pressure and volume of a gas have an inverse relationship when temperature is constant) to determine residual lung volume and other lung volumes. Body plethysmography is considered more accurate than gas dilution methods for calculating lung volumes, particularly if the lung is obstructed.
A:
Get a referral to a medical specialist who can conduct a helium dilution test. Consider the nitrogen washout technique. Have a body plethysmography done for best accuracy.