SLIGO, a maritime county in the province of Connaught in Ireland, is bounded on the north by the Atlantic Ocean, on the east by Leitrim, on the south-east by Roscommon, and on the south and west by Mayo. It extends from 53º 54' to 54º 28' north latitude, and from 8° 10' to 9° 10' west longitude; being thirty-eight miles in its greatest length from north to south, between Mullaghmore Head and Lough Gara, and forty-one in breadth from west to east, between Ardmaree and the junction of the three counties of Sligo, Roscommon, and Leitrim, and comprehending an area of 461,753 acres, or 721 square miles.

According to Ptolemy the geographer, this district was inhabited by the tribe of the Nagnatae, whose chief city, Nagnata, is supposed to have been situated somewhere in the vicinity of the town of Sligo. It afterwards formed part of the kingdom of Connaught, one of the five into which the island was divided previously to the arrival of the English, in the reign of Henry II. It was afterwards possessed by one of the family of the O’Conors, kings of Connaught, who was called O’Conor Sligo, to distinguish him from the other chieftains of the same family; and under him the heads of the septs of O’Bean, O’Doud, O’Gara, O’Hara, M‘Donogh, and M’Firbis, were subordinate chieftains in their respective districts. After a protracted struggle between the natives and the English, it fell into the hands of the De Burgos, who, either by force or treaties, had made themselves masters of the greater[7:20:392] part of the ancient kingdom of Connaught. When the province was made shire-ground by Elizabeth, in 1569, Sligo formed one of the seven counties into which it was divided; but so far from being thus rendered amenable to the jurisdiction of that queen, it became the theatre of several conflicts in the war against O’Heil, chieftain of Tyrone, in the latter part of her reign. The most remarkable of these was that with Sir Conyers Clifford, who, in attempting to pass into the county from Roscommon with a body of from 1500 to 2000 men, in order to relieve Belleek, was attacked in a defile of the Curlew mountains by O’Roark, chieftain of Breffney, was himself killed, and bis troops were driven back with considerable loss. During the civil wars of 1641, the Irish kept possession of the open country until nearly its close, when they were reduced to submission by the parliamentary forces under Ireton. In the subsequent war of 1688, the county was held by the forces of King James for some time, but ultimately yielded to the victorious arms of William III. The French force which landed at Killalla under General Humbert in 1798, had a severe skirmish at Colooney with the Limerick militia, commanded by Colonel Vereker, which ended in the retreat of the latter.

The county includes an extensive line of sea-coast along its northern border, in which are the bays of Classy-vaun and Milkhaven in the north, and Brown Bay, which branches into the smaller and less frequented indentations of Drumeliff, Sligo, and Ballysadare Bays. Killalla Bay, to the west of the coιmty, belongs also to Mayo. The island of Innismurray lies about five miles off the northern coast, being separated from the mainland by a passage dangerous, except in moderate weather, from the number of reefs under water. The island itself rises precipitously on the ocean side, but shelves gradually downwards on that of the land: there is but one practicable landing-place. The whole surface extends over 209 acres, of which about 120 are arable, affording pasturage to a few cattle and sheep. There is also a large extent of bog. The inhabitants depend chiefly on the fishery, which in most seasons is abundant. The place is peculiarly remarkable for a small chapel or cell, celebrated for an image of its patron, St. Molasse. Near the chapel is a singular relic, called the cursing-stone, so named from a superstitious opinion of its efficacy in punishing guilt if appealed to according to an established form. The island is also a favourite burial place: males and females are interred in separate cemeteries.

The land rises into mountains of considerable height in its northern extremity. The principal of these are Benbulben, 1722 feet high; King’s mountain, 1527; Cullogherboy, 1430; and Truskmore, part of which is in Laeitrim, 2072. In the west are the ranges of the Slieve, Gamph, and Ox mountains, the highest points of which are 1321 and 1446 feet respectively. In the east Kishcorrin and Carriskea rise to the heights of 1183 and 1062 feet. The Curlew mountains in the south-east, between Roscommon and Sligo, only rise to the height of 863 feet. The entire surface of the county contains 449,013 acres of land, of which about 272,000 are capable of cultivation, and the remainder mountain or waste, and 12,740 acres under water. The principal rivers are the Moy, which forms the western boundary, separating the county from Mayo, and emptying itself into Killalla Bay; it is navigable to Ballina, six miles inland, for vessels of ten feet draught; the Tinned, the Easkey, the Ballybeg, the Dun-neill, the Ballysadare river, with its branches the Owenmore, Owenbeg, and Arrow, or Unshin, and the Garvogue, a short but rapid stream, rising in Lough Gill, and passing through Sligo town into the bay of the same name. All these rivers have their sources within the county. The lakes are numerous, and several of them large ard highly picturesque. Lough Gill, the most northern, spreads over 3130 acres, besides a small portion in Leitrim; its western side is richly planted, and in it are ten islands, the largest of which are Church Island, 41 acres, and Cottage Island, 13. Lough Arrow, in the east, 3010 acres, is of very irregular form, and contains the islands of Annagowla, 34 acres, Muck, 21, and Inish, 20; Lough Gara, in the south-east, 3683 acres, contains the islands of Derrymore, 33 acres, Inchmore, 21, and the smaller islands of Inch, Inchbeg, Eagle, Crow, and Derrynatallan. Lough Talt, in a basin of the Ox mountains, surrounded by projecting cliffs, 300 acres, and 455 fret above sea level, is remarkable for its abundance of trout, which vary in shape and flavour in various parts of the lake. Lough Easkey, 337 acres, lies in the same mountain range; Templehouse lake contains 356 acres, Cloonacleigha, 177. Smaller lakes are numerous in all parts.

The carboniferous, or mountain limestone, including the lower limestone, calp or black shale series, and the upper limestone, forms the basis of by much the greater portion of the county. A small tract of the yellow sandstone and conglomerate shews itself in the extreme north, as also on the north and east of Lough Gara, whence it penetrates, extending into Mayo. The old red sandstone, and sandstone conglomerate, appears in two masses near Lough Arrow, the southern and larger portion plunging deeply into the adjoining county of Leitrim. A very small portion of the granite formation, which lies between Lough Conn and Foxford, enters the county, giving place to a broad belt of trap porphyry, bounded by a narrow fringe of old red sandstone, and stretching in a north-eastern direction, along the line of the Ox mountains to Ballysadare Bay; a mass of granite protrudes through the middle of this formation. To the south of the same bay, and west of Ballysadare town, is a small field of quartz rock. The sandstone in some tracts assumes an appearance which gave rise to the opinion that coal existed under it, but, on making the experiment, the hopes of the speculator were always baffled. Iron was procured in large quantities, particularly at the base of the Ox mountains, until the timber used as fuel for smelting was exhasted. Sulphate of copper and iron pyrites are frequently found in small pieces; and pure copper occasionally in the beds of some of the rivers. Manganese has also been found in various places, and amethysts of large size near Ballymote.

The climate, owing to the proximity of the sea and the lofty tracts of mountains with which the county is intersected, is moist, and the weather extremely variable, the atmospheric changes being so frequent and sudden, as often to render the barometer an unsatisfactory test of the weather. The soil, in the mountainous districts, is a light sandy loam on a freestone bottom, interrupted by large patches of bog, and often overspread with a thin coat of turf mould. In the low country it is rich and deep, resting on a substratum of limestone, and suitable to the growth of every kind of agricultural produce. In many parts a superior stratum, called by the people lac-leigh, or the grey flag, is found incumbent on the limestone bottom. It is principally composed of silicious marl, in a state so compact, as to be impenetrable to water; thus, by preventing the drainage of the surface, opposing what was for some time deemed an insurmountable obstacle to the successful culture of the land. But it was afterwards discovered, that deep trenching, so as to cut through the adhesive layer, not only served to carry off the water effectually, which now passed freely through the subjacent limestone gravel, but to add to the fertility of the soil; the marl, when broken up and mixed with the surface mould, proving a valuable compost. Timber was abundant, until destroyed by the consumption of it required for the iron works, and by its lavish use for domestic and agricultural[7:20:393] purposes, without any regard to the formation of a fresh supply. That the land is capable of furnishing plenty of this valuable article, is evident from the manner in which young forest trees of various kinds shoot up in the mountainous districts, and in the escars which traverse the county in various directions, checked in their growth only by want of due care to protect the young shoots from the depredations of cattle. But this defect in the picturesque and agricultural character of the surface is daily diminishing. The attention of the principal landholders is now particularly directed to the increase of forest timber, and numerous plantations are to be seen round the mansions and villas of the gentry, particularly on the borders of the beautiful lakes which grace the landscape. The prevalence of western gales from the Atlantic forbids the full growth of any trees near the shore, except the willow and sycamore, which are observed to incline in the direction of the prevailing blast. Arbutus of small size grows freely in most parts, as does the myrtle in more favoured aspects. Many parts of the beach along the sea-shore is covered with a coraline sand, interspersed with numerous beds of oyster-shells of considerable extent. These beds are also found in some parts of the interior, at elevations of more than fifty feet above high water mark.

The population, like that of every other county in Ireland, has been steadily on the increase, ever since the observations of statistical writers have been directed to this subject. The numbers of inhabitants at several periods, are as follows:

Year. Authority. No.

1760 .....De Burgo 38,736

1792 Beaufort 60,000

1812 Parliamentary census..119,265

1821 ditto 146,229

1831 ditto 171,508

According to the last of these results, the population is to the acreable extent of the cultivated land, as one to 1.585 acres, and to that of the total landed surface, as one to 2.693; or, in other words, there is one; inhabitant to every acre and a-half in the first ease, and to every two acres and a-half in the second. The census taken by the commissioners of Public Instruction in 1834, being arranged in dioceses instead of counties, cannot be depended on as strictly accurate. According to it, the population may be estimated at 174,400, of which number 17,900 were Protestants, and 156,500 Roman Catholics; the former being to the latter as one to nine nearly. The number of presbyterians and other dissenters, who are included in the preceding statement of numbers among the protestants, amounts only to 560. The number of children receiving instruction in public schools, was as follows, according to the returns made under the Population act in 1821, the Commission of Education in 1824-6, the Commission of Public Instruction in 1834, and the Report of the Commissioners of National Education in 1839:

Sex not

Males. Females. ascertained. Total.

1821 5849 3010 — 8,859

1824—6 6516 3686 221 10,432

1834 8562 5259 — 13,821

1838 1551 1102 — 2,653

In the return of 1824—6, the only one in which the difference of religious persuasion is noted, the numbers of each of these are, of the Established Church, 2558; Protestant dissenters, 200; and Roman Catholics, 7495; the religion of the remaining one hundred and eighty not having been ascertained. Of the total number of schools, two hundred and twenty-six, included in the same return, one hundred and thirty were pay-schools, in which the teachers were remunerated by the pupils’ fees, seventy-four were supported, either wholly or partially, by voluntary subscriptions, and but twenty-two by grants of public money.

The county is divided into the six baronies of Carbery, Coolavin, Corran, Leney, Tiraghrill, and Tyreragh, which are subdivided into thirty-nine parishes: of these, twenty-three are in the diocese of Tuam, and sixteen in that of Elphin. The county was represented in the Irish Parliament by four members; two for the county and two for the borough of Sligo. By the act of Union, the number was reduced to three, one being deducted from the borough. The Reform act made no change in this respect. The constituency of the county, as registered under the same act at different periods, together with the numbers under the previous act of 1829, by which the forty-shilling constituency had been abolished, was as follows:

£50. 4'20. £10. Total.
399 315 299 1013
168 151 370 695

1834 _ _ _ 804

1837 273 220 546 1039

According to the last specified return, the number of electors is to the total population as one to one hundred and fifty, and to the number of heads of families as one to twenty-five. The county is in the Connaught circuit; the assizes, and some of the sessions of the peace, are held in the town of Sligo, which contains the county court-house and prison. Sessions of the peace are also held at Ballymote and Easkey, where there are likewise court-houses and bridewells. The county infirmary, and four hospitals are in the first-named town. The lunatic asylum is in Ballynasloe, but several of the unhappy creatures, for whose protection and recovery it was designed, are still kept in the county jail. There are nine dispensaries in various places.

Most parts of the county afford ample scope for agricultural improvements, either in tillage or pasturage. Oats and potatoes are the principal crops on the tillage land. The culture of wheat was long unknown, the coldness and humidity of the climate having been deemed insuperable bars to its successful treatment, but it is now raised in considerable quantities on the rich lowlands. Green crops, under the rotation system, are also more and more attended to every year. Ploughing is usually effected by two horses, and, in some light soils, two asses are substituted for them; oxen are never used for this purpose. The spade, in many of the mountain districts, still supplies the place of the plough. Fences of every kind are usually constructed; those of dry stones being most common, particularly in the more elevated districts, where the farmers adopt this mode of structure as well to clear their fields of surface stones, as to secure them from trespass. Sea-weed, collected on the shore, which, some years ago, had been manufactured into kclp, is now used as manure, and is in such repute, that it is carried twenty miles up the country. The beds of oyster shells and the coraline sand on some stretches of the beach, arc applied to the same purpose. Tillage farms are from five acres, and even lower, to two hundred or three hundred in size. Those used chiefly for pasturage are often of much greater extent, and, until lately, were mostly held by a number of tenants in a species of partnership, according to which, each had an exclusive portion of tillage ground, while a large tract of mountain or coarse bottom-land was depasturced in common; but this system has been for several years so much discouraged as to be nearly if not altogether obsolete. The average rent of land is ten shillings and eightpence per acre. Though the tillage system, as stated, is much encouraged and rapidly extending, it is still subordinate to that of pasturage, which is adopted in all parts of the county, and on every description of soil. Horned cattle of the largest size are fattened in the rich lowland plains; young cattle are reared in the hilly and[7:20:394] mountain districts; sheep also are kept in large flocks, particularly in the western baronies. Much butter is made, both in dairy farms and by small landholders. Swine, which are reared in great numbers, are looked upon as a very profitable source of income. Goats are not common. The native breed of horses has little to recommend it, unless when improved by crosses from those of the neighbouring counties, in which more attention is paid to them. The maritime situation of the county is well adapted for increasing the quantity of human nutriment, in addition to that derived from agriculture. The bays abound with both round and flat fish. The herring visits the coast in large shoals, and the sun-fish and some species of whales are frequently seen in the offing. But this source of profitable industry is far from being rendered as productive as the natural capabilities of the place would lead us to infer. The want of capital paralyzes the exertions of the fisherman. As long as the boatmen were enabled to procure materials for the making and reparing of their craft, and for the purchase of the necessary fishing gear by the aid of bounties and loans, the occupation was profitable, and the numbers engaged in it increased annually, but since the withdrawing of those encouragements in 1830, the fisheries have retrograded, both as to numbers of men, and as to rate of profit. Of the larger fish, cod, hake, haddock, skate, and turbot, are the most abundant. Sprats are taken in great quantities. The Lissadill oyster is so much esteemed, that there is a regular demand for it in Dublin and other large towns. This fish, with many others of the shell kind, as lobsters, crabs, scallops, &c., are found in many other parts of the coast. There are large and profitable salmon fisheries at Ballina, Sligo, and Bally-sadare; and the numerous lakes and rivers supply the usual species of fresh water fish in equal abundance. The increase of agricultural improvement of late years is mainly attributable to the facilities for export afforded by the ports of Sligo and Ballina, but more especially the former, it being the great mart of commerce for the whole county, except its western districts, which, for the same purpose, take advantage of their vicinity to the latter. The statements relative to the external trade will be found in the subsequent description of the town and port of Sligo. The inland trade, in consequence of the want of communication by inland navigation or railroads, is confined to that of coarse cloths, woollens, and stockings from Connaught, and to the sale of linen, mostly for domestic use. The chief trade of this description is from Sligo town to Boyle in Roscommon, and thence, by the Shannon and the two canals, to more distant counties. A more confined traffic is carried on with Colooney. Among the late plans for stimulating national industry by inward channels of communication, it is proposed to carry a railroad from Sligo through Ballysadare, Colooney, and Drumsna to Longford, thence to be divided into two branches; 1st, by Granard, to join the proposed main railroad from Dublin to Enniskillen at Kells in Meath; 2d, through Mullingar, to join the proposed south-western railroad from Dublin to Kilkenny at Celbridge. No measures have been yet adopted to effect this plan.

The linen manufacture was introduced into the county so lately as the middle of the last century, when a number of weavers were located at Ballymote by Lord Shelburne. It continued to flourish for many years, but at length suffered, as in other parts, by the depression of the trade, and by the introduction of that of cotton; it is now reviving. Coarse woollens are made for domestic consumption. In the neighbourhood of the larger towns are several thriving tanneries, distilleries, and breweries; and the manufacture of flour has caused the erection of numerous mills, which prepare large quantities of grain, both for home consumption and export. The manufacture of kelp is nearly extinct.

There is a considerable number of resident gentry in the county in proportion to its size, and consequently many elegant mansions and well planted demesnes, which contribute more and more every year to diminish the former denuded appearance of the landscape, arising from the improvident destruction of its ancient timber. The houses of the smaller farmers are plain, but comfortable; but the cottages of the peasantry generally present indications of poverty. They are either of stone or mud, rudely thatched with straw or rushes. The food of the labouring classes are potatoes and oaten bread, with some milk and fish, and meat on extraordinary occasions. Fuel from the bogs is abundant. Coal, imported from Great Britain by the vessels which take in return cargoes of agricultural produce, is used in the larger towns, and by the respectable families in their vicinity; but the high price precludes its general use throughout the county. The garments of the men are chiefly of home-manufactured wool, and so were those of the women until lately, when the native fabrics have been nearly supplanted by cheap cottons. Irish is scarcely spoken, except in some of the retired mountain tracts. Early marriages are much encouraged: they generally take place in the winter and spring. The rustic customs and amusements resemble those of the other north-western counties, in which the language and habits introduced from Scotland are less prevalent than in the eastern parts of Ulster.

There are numerous relics of ancient structures. A round tower at Drumeliff, in Carbery barony, differs from all others in Ireland, in being of smaller size, and inferior architecture. Near the church where it stands, are two stone crosses. On Knocknaree mountains are several cairns; and in the same mountains, a deep valley, thickly planted and watered by several romantic falls, appears to have been formed by a violent organic shock, causing a fissure through the mountain. Some grottoes, hollowed out of the side of a hill near Carron, are of unknown antiquity. Near Sligo town is a cromlech, and a number of circular structures, popularly called giants’ graves. Near Castleconnor, in Tyreragh barony, are several vaults of a square form, whether built for cemeteries or storehouses, is uncertain. There are several remains of ancient castles. That of Knocknamoyle, crowning an elevated hill near Skreen, is supposed to have existed before the arrival of the English; the others are thought to have been built since. Upwards of forty monastic buildings are noticed by antiquaries, the ruins of ten of which are still visible; eight others have been converted into parochial churches, but the remainder are known only by name, even the site of some of them being either doubtful or undiscoverable. Close to the ruins of an ancient chapel on Church Island, in Lough Gill, is a kind of chamber, or cavity, called the “lady’s bed,” to which is attached the superstitious notion, that women who have lain in it will be preserved from the risk of death in child-bed. A well called Tubber-art, in Kilmacteige parish, has the character of performing cures in diseases that have set at defiance the ordinary resources of medicine.

Sligo, the assize town of the county, became a place of importance by the building of a castle there, by the earl of Kildare, soon after the English settlement: its consequence was increased by the subsequent foundation of a Dominican monastery; but its progress was subsequently much impeded by fires, and by the hostilities produced by the struggles for superiority between the English and the natives. It was incorporated and invested with the privileges of a parliamentary borough in 1613, and in 1621 obtained a charter of the staple. In the early period of the war of 1641, it was taken by the parliamentarians, under Sir Charles Coote, but after some time evacuated by them, and thence continued in the possession of the royalists till the termination of the war. In 1688 it declared in favour of King James, was taken for King William by the Enniskilleners, who, in turn, were driven out by General Sarsfield; but the place ultimately surrendered to the earl of Granard. The town is[7:20:395] situated on both sides of the mouth of the Garvogue, where it discharges itself into the bay. The river is crossed by two bridges. The streets are narrow, winding, and irregularly built. Its public buildings are, two protestant churches, a Roman Catholic chapel, a Dominican friary, Presbyterian, Independent, and Methodist meeting-houses. The existing remains of the ancient monastery of Sligo still exhibit a fine specimen of the architecture of the period in which it was erected. Near its high altar is the tomb of the O’Conor Sligo, embellished with effigies. The town contains the county infirmary and fever hospital, two dispensaries, cavalry barracks for a hundred men, a library, and a small theatre. There is a mendicity association, which has been for some time in existence, but will shortly be closed, as Sligo is selected for the site of the workhouse for a union that extends over the whole county, except a few detached parts on its borders that are annexed to unions in the adjacent counties. The town is divided, under the poor law act, into three wards, with two guardians to each; the rest of the union being divided into twenty wards, with thirty-three guardians. The markets, which are held daily, the principal being on Thursday and Saturday, are well supplied with grain, meat, fish, and vegetables. Fairs are held five times in the year. The town is a chief station for the constabulary, and for the coast-guard. The paving, lighting, and other departments of the municipal police, are under the direction of commissioners, appointed by several acts of parliament; their jurisdiction extends a mile in every direction from the market cross. Previously to the union, the borough returned two members to parliament; subsequently the number was reduced to one, the right of franchise being vested in the mayor and twenty-seven burgesses and freemen, till the passing of the reform act, when it was extended to the L.10 householders. The number of electors in 1832 was 418; and in 1834, 694. The assizes and sessions of the peace for the county are held here in the court-house, an elegant modem building, and petty sessions are likewise held weekly. The county prison is commodious, well arranged, and under a good system of discipline. It has a tread-mill.

Sligo bay, in its more extended bearings, stretches from Rinoran to Gessige point, at its opening, a distance of about six miles, and is divided into three branches, the central, largest, and deepest of which terminates at the town of Sligo. The entrance of this branch is screened from the violence of the ocean waves by two small islands, Oyster island and Coney island. There are three lighthouses at the mouth of the harbour. Across its main entrance is a bar, with but ten feet depth at low water. Though the entrance of ships of deep draught is thus prevented, yet vessels of 300 tons can come up to the quays in the turn of spring tides. The increase of trade has been very considerable of late years. The number of vessels that entered in 1800, was 65; in 1830, 540, but in 1834 the number fell to 391. The export of oats in 1831, was 130,000 quarters; in 1832, 134,000; and in 1833, 154,000. That of wheat trebled itself in the three years ending with 1833, but the quantities were still small as compared with the oats, amounting in 1833 to no more than 3127 quarters. The export of butter and pork is also increasing rapidly, and steadily; no fewer than 150,000 casks of the former, and 8547 barrels of the latter, having been shipped in 183.3. The increased demand in Great Britain for grain and provisions, has produced a considerable change in the cultivation of the soil, both in enlarged extent, and superior skill applied to tillage-land. The exports in 1835 amounted to L.369,490, estimated value, the principal being of grain, 504,803 cwts., value L.25,240; and provisions, 55,389 cwts., value L. 181,836. The imports of the same year amounted to L. 124,692, of which the principal were, tobacco, 101,066 lbs., L.16,450; salt, 90,640 bushels, L.6,728; British spi rits, 33,000 gallons, L.11,000; and tea, 20,186 lbs., L.4037. Both exports and imports are chiefly confined to the cross-channel trade. The revenue of customs and excise duties has not increased in the same proportion. The amount of each, at various periods, is as follows:
[table]

The regulations of the port and harbour are placed under the commissioners of the town police, already noticed, who are authorised to assess a tax at a maximum of 2s. 6d in the pound, on all houses of L.5, and upwards, annual value, for all the purposes under the acts.

The population of Sligo town, and of the only other town of any note in the country, was in 1831, Sligo, 15,152; Ardmaree, 2,47.