GOOD HOPE, Cape of, a district of country in the southern portion of Africa, in the possession of Great Britain. In the distribution of land and water, this cape occupies a conspicuous place on the map of the globe. It separates the Indian Ocean from the Atlantic, and divides the voyage to Hindustan into two nearly equal portions. To double this Cape, and bear across the ocean to the golden shores of India, was an object of ambition to the early Portuguese navigators. It was first descried, in 1493, by Diaz, who commanded a Portuguese squadron. (See Gama.) The tempestuous nature of the sea, however, caused by the conflict of contending oceans running in opposite directions, compelled the navigator to return. By him the newly discovered land was called the Cape of Tempests; but the king of Portugal gave it the more auspicious name which it still bears. The formidable barrier, however, was not passed until 1497, when the celebrated Vasco de Gama, with his characteristic boldness, surmounted every difficulty, and carried the Portuguese flag into the Indian Sea. The Portuguese, however, found a richer spoil in the kingdoms of the East; and although they frequently touched at the Cape, they did not make any permanent settlement there. But the Dutch early saw the importance of forming a station at the Cape, and fixed upon it as a place where their vessels might take in water and provisions. But they did not, properly speaking, colonize it, until the middle of the seventeenth century, when they founded Cape Town. This led to further improvements, and the colony gradually assumed its present dimensions. The natives were either compelled to fly beyond the mountains, or they were reduced to a state of abject slavery. During the war with revolutionary France, the Cape was reduced by the British in 1797, but was ceded to Holland by the peace of Amiens. When the war recommenced, it again yielded to Britain, and the permanent possession of it was confirmed by the congress of Vienna in 1815.

This colony is bounded on the north and east by the Orange and Fish Rivers, and on the west and south by the Atlantic and Southern Oceans. The country extends from latitude 26. to 33. 55. 40. south. It includes the country inhabited by the Hottentot race and the Boshuanas. The country, as represented upon the map, is of a very irregular figure; but it has been ascertained by late measurements that the Cape Colony comprehends an area of 110,256^ square miles. Of this great tract of territory, a very considerable proportion is a sterile waste.
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Chains of vast and barren mountains enclose level plains composed of a hard surface of clay, thinly sprinkled over with sand, and producing straggling tufts of stunted shrubs. The mountains generally extend in the direction of east and west, but there are exceptions to this rule.

The first great chain of mountains, which runs east and west, is called Lange Kloof or Long Pass. Between it and the southern coast there lies an irregular belt of land from twenty to sixty miles in width. It is indented by several bays, and, possessing a good soil and a more mild and equable temperature than the interior parts of the colony, it is well clothed with vegetation, and is in many parts wooded with forest trees. The next great chain is the Swartebergen, or Black Mountains. It is more lofty and rugged than the first, and in many places consists of double, and sometimes treble ranges of hills. Between it and the first chain there lies a belt which is about the mean width of that between the first and the sea. Its surface is very various, being composed in some parts of barren hills; in others of arid tracts of clay land called karroo; and in some places of fertile land. This belt lies higher than the first; but the temperature is less uniform, and altogether it is not so valuable as the other. The third great range is the Nieuweveld Mountains, which, with the second, encloses the Great Karroo,^[1. Th· word karroo belongs to the Hottentot language, and signifie· dry or arid. ] an arid plain 309 miles in length, and eighty in breadth. This desert, which forms the third step or terrace of Southern Africa, is greatly elevated above the second. It is destitute of inhabitants, and almost of vegetation. What there is of the latter is parched and shrivelled by the heat of the sun, and from the want of moisture. On the western coast are also elevated chains of mountains. To the northward the country is more barren and sandy than towards the eastward. Sandstone resting upon a base of granite composes all the continuous chains of mountains in Southern Africa. These are the most prevailing rocks; the next in frequency are clayslate, and there are also greywacke, quartz rock, and dolerite. In some parts the sandstone is traversed by veins of red iron ore. Dr Clarke Abel mentions a vein six feet wide, and extending for upwards of a hundred feet.

On the western coast there are two principal rivers, the Berg or Mountain River, which falls into St Helena Bay, and the Olifant or Elephant’s River, which falls into the Southern Atlantic in south latitude 31. 30. Both these rivers have obstructions at their mouths, which prevent their being navigable. On the south coast are several considerable rivers, one of which is the Great Fish River.

All these streams are well stocked with various kinds of fish. Breede or Braad River is navigable, by ships of 200 tons burden, and its mouth has been called Port Beaufort. Here the exports of the district are made. The Grautz is the next great river of the coast. It is a collection of waters from the Great Karroo, the Black Mountains, and the maritime chain. The other streams it is unnecessary to mention. Southern Africa possesses but few lakes, and of these some are salt. There is also a paucity of springs; and although much rain falls in Cape District, it affords comparatively few, on account of the peculiar nature and relative position of the strata.

Cape Colony is divided into two provinces, the eastern and western, which are again subdivided into districts, arranged as under:

Western Province. — Cape District, Stellenbosch, Caledon, Zwellendam, Worcester (formerly Julbach), Clanwilliam.

Eastern Province. — Graaff Reynet, Beaufort, Somerset, Albany, Uitenhage, George, Fredericksburg.

It is to be observed that some of these districts have been united into one, since the commissioners of inquiry into the state of the colony suggested the propriety of dividing Cape Colony into two provinces. Although they are of nearly equal superficial extent, in their physical character and productions they are very unlike. The western districts produce chiefly corn and wine, and the eastern are principally adapted for pasturage.

Cape District is the most populous and prosperous of the whole. It consists of two parts; the peninsula on which the town stands, and the slip of land extending from the shore of Table Bay to the mouth of Berg River, and separated from Stellenbosch and Drakenstein by the Little Salt River, Deep River, and Mossel Bank River. This is about eighty miles from north to south, and twenty-five from east to west; whilst the Cape Peninsula is about thirty miles in length and eight in breadth. Both comprehend a surface of 3584· square miles, and in 1836 had a population of 13,180, consisting of 6943 males and 6237 females.

Cape Peninsula is distinguished for the richness and variety of its vegetable productions. Some of the finest botanical specimens which now adorn the gardens of Europe have been derived from this quarter of the world. In no other place do the bulbous plants in particular exhibit so many beautiful varieties. Others of the vegetable tribes, which are rather for ornament than use, are likewise numerous and beautiful; but there is a deficiency of building timber and fire wood, although forests of oak are said to exist to the east of False Bay, in that part called Hottentot Land. Many European plants have been introduced, as the vines of France, and the fruits of the north of Europe; and it is believed that the tea of China, the coffee of Java, the cotton of India, and the tobacco of America, as well as other valuable vegetable productions, might be successfully cultivated at the Cape. Of metals, copper, native iron, silver, and lead, are known to exist, and coal is said to have been discovered. This would no doubt be an invaluable acquisition to the natural wealth of the Cape; but at present the staple commodities upon which the colony depends are the produce of the wine districts; grain, hides, and skins; horses, argol, aloes, and wool. Perhaps silk might be made a source of colonial revenue, for here the wulberry grows to perfection, and the climate is precisely adapted to the worm. With regard to the zoology of the Cape of Good Hope, as there is little peculiar to this part of Southern Africa, and as under the head of Africa sufficient details are given, it is unnecessary to recapitulate what will be found in that article. We shall commence our topographical descriptions with the seat of government, Cape Town.

Cape Town, the capital of the colony, lies at the bottom of Table Bay, about thirty-two miles north from the Cape of Good Hope, and on the western side of the territory to which it gives its name, in longitude 18. 21. E. and latitude 33. 55. 56. S. The town, as we have already mentioned, was founded by the Dutch in 1650, after which it shared in the various vicissitudes which were experienced by the colony. The streets are regularly laid out in straight lines, crossing each other at right angles. Though unpaved, they are kept in excellent order, many of them being watered by canals, and planted on each side with oaks. The houses are built of brick, and faced with a stucco of lime, and they are decorated with cornices and architectural devices. Each house has in front a paved platform, called the stoep or step, usually eight or ten feet wide, and raised from two to four feet above the level of the street. It is here that the inhabitants retire to enjoy the air, or the converse of friends. The roofs have only an inclination sufficient to allow the rain to run down. Although the houses do not display the luxury and splendour of European mansions[7:10:612], they are nevertheless commodious and comfortable. There are three churches here, one for the Reformed or Calvinistic congregation, the established church of the Dutch government; one for the performance of the English service, built in 1820; and a third belonging to the Lutherans, who are a numerous body. Besides these, there is a meeting-house open to preachers of various denominations; and the Malays have a place of worship, in which the Mahommedan service is performed. The public buildings of Cape Town are, the government-house, which stands in a garden surrounded with plantations; the burgher senatehouse, a large handsome building, where civic business is transacted, and which stands on one side of a square, where a market for vegetables is held; the commercé exchange, a building which contains the court of justice, the secretary’s office, and most of the principal public offices; the customhouse, and other public buildings, such as are necessary in conducting the affairs of a large town. It is defended by a castle of considerable strength, which commands the jetty or landing place, and part of Table Bay, and completely controls the only road between the town and country. Table Bay is capable of containing any number of ships; but it is exposed to the westerly winds during the months of June, July, and August, during which there is thrown in a heavy swell, which often proves very destructive. This is the great drawback upon Cape Town, otherwise so admirably adapted for a commercial station. During the prevalence of the easterly monsoon, however, Table Bay is perfectly safe; whilst the cheapness of provisions, the healthiness of the climate, and, above all, its position, render it an excellent resting place for vessels bound to or returning from India, China, Australia, and other places.

Large quantities of corn of a very good description are produced in the immediate neighbourhood of Cape Town; but its free exportation is restrained, none being allowed to be sent abroad, except a specified quantity decided upon by government after an investigation into the state of the crops. Large quantities of wine, and of what is called brandy, are produced at the Cape; but, with the exception of Constantia, they are very inferior. Considerable quantities of hides, skins, and horns, are exported. They are principally brought from Algoa Bay, on the eastern side of the colony; and the trade has increased very fast during the last six or seven years. Horses, butter, beef, ivory, whale oil, aloes, argol, and various other articles, are among the exports. The imports at the Cape consist of woollens, cottons, hardware, earthen ware, furniture, haberdashery, soap, paper, books, and portions of most articles used in this country. Piece-goods and teak timber are imported from India, tea from China, sugar from India and the Mauritius, &c. The total revenue of the Cape Colony for the year 1832 amounted to L.130,808. 7s. 3įd.; the expenditure for the same year was L.126,889. Os. 9Jd; leaving a balance or surplus of L.3919. 6s. 10fd. The trade between the colonists and the independent natives is subjected to restraints, which do not work advantageously. According to the accounts published by the board of trade, the values of the products imported into and exported from the Cape of Good Hope in 1831 were-aşμnder.
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During the same year, the ships and tonnage entering inwards from, and clearing outwards to, the under-mentioned ∞untries, were—
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According to the government returns of 1836, the population amounted to 9743 males and 10,000 females, making in all 19,743.

Articles, the Produce and Manufacture of the Cape Colony, exported in 1829.
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The whites are composed of individuals from various European nations. The most numerous of the inhabitants are the Dutch, who still occupy places of importance. The slaves are for the most part Malays, or natives of Madagascar and the eastern coast. The Hottentots prefer a country life, and are generally averse to residing in towns. In regard to the society of Cape Town, Mr Thomson observes, “Of the habits and customs of the Cape Dutch in Cape Town and its vicinity, I need only say, that they are becoming every day more decidedly English. It will be a matter of regret, if they ever so entirely change as to lose some of their present character. They are a frank and hospitable, and at the same time a prudent and thrifty race.”^[2. Thomson’s Travel· hi South Africa, vol. ü. p. 42X ] The old Dutch court of justice, which till within a few years administered the law, has been superseded by a court more on the English model, consisting of a chief justice and three puisne judges, with an attorney general, &c. instead of the old fiscal. Landrosts and humraden have been supplanted by civil commissioners, resident magistrates, and justices of peace. A council has been appointed to assist the governor with its advice, and consists of the chief justice, the government secretary, the military officer next in command to the governor for the time being, the accountant general, and the chief commissioner of the eastern province. But the most important of all is, an order in council, by which the Hottentots and other free coloured population are placed under the equal protection of the laws, and declared to be, as subjects of the British government, in every respect upon the same footing as the white colonists, whether Dutch or English.

A minute topographical description of the extended and thinly-peopled territory comprehended within the Cape Colony is unnecessary. A few particular places, however, may be described. In the vicinity of the capital there is a very conspicuous mountain called Table Mountain, which rises to the height of 3582 feet above the level of the sea. It commands a view of vast extent, and its sides afford a rich treat to the botanist and geologist. In the same peninsula on which the above mountain stands, are two others nearly as conspicuous and interesting. One of them is termed the Lion’s Head, and has an elevation of 2160 feet above the level of the sea; the other is denominated the Lion’s Rump, and its height is 1142 feet. About seventy-five miles from Cape Town, in the direction of south-east by east, are the warm baths of Swarteberg. To the north of these is the Guadenthal, or Bavian⅛ Mountain, where the Moravian missionaries have their principal settlement. The members of this religious colony have been highly useful to the poor proscribed Hottentots. Near Algoa Bay, and 450 miles eastward of Cape Town, is situated Bethels-dorp, the principal establishment of the London Missionary Society. Those who have visited this place describe its outward appearance as being far from prepossessing. The country around is bleak and barren, and wants water for irrigation. However, many of the Hottentot families occupy substantial and commodious houses, whilst some have reached a degree of comfort and convenience far above the average of the frontier boors. The manufactures of England are used as clothing; many native artificers are to be met with; and, altogether, from the aspect of intelligence which the inhabitants exhibit, as described by the most recent travellers, there is no room to doubt that they are rapidly rising in the scale of society. There are a number of other missionary stations scattered throughout Cape Colony, and they all appear to have done, and to be still doing some good.

In 1820 a company of Scottish emigrants to the number of 5000, under the patronage of the British government, planted a colony in the district of Albany, on the frontiers of Caffreland, and conferred on it the name of Glen-Lynden. The late Mr Pringle, who headed the party, thus speaks of the settlement in 1834: “A few words in conclusion about our settlement of Glen-Lynden. Under the blessing of Providence its prosperity has been steadily progressive Without having any pretensions to wealth, and with very little money among them, the Glen-Lynden settlers, with some few exceptions, may be said to be in a thriving, and, on the whole, in a very enviable condition.” This puts down at once the assertions which have been made in various publications, that the attempt had proved unsuccessful. It is impossible to calculate the benefits which may result from the enterprise of the intrepid Scottish emigrants. Keeping out of view entirely the moral effects which must result from their intercourse with the rude tribes around them, science seems likely to be greatly benefited by this colony. The number of the settlers has very much increased, and by their gradual diffusion over this vasl continent, they may yet be the first to convey to us information respecting the interior of Africa, all attempts to explore which have hitherto proved equally fruitless and fatal.

The past history of the native races of Cape Colony, since the latter became known to Europeans, presents nothing but a dark picture of fierce tyranny on the one side, and gloomy submission on the other. Their domestic feuds also have tended greatly to enhance their miseries. The condition of the Hottentot is still very abject, [7:10:614]on account of the oppression of the district authorities, although the missionaries have done much to alleviate it. But we cannot enter into details relative to the conflict which was carried on between interested rapacity on the one hand, and Christian philanthropy on the other. Ample information upon this subject will be found in Dr Phillips’ Researches in South Africa. A late writer thus describes the personal appearance and general character of the Hottentots.

“This unfortunate tribe has become noted and almost proverbial for presenting man in his lowest estate, and under tþe closest alliance with the inferior orders of creation. It must, indeed, be admitted, that they take particular pains to render their external appearance the most hideous that the human body can possibly present. Grease is poured over their persons in copious streams, which, being exposed to the perpetual action of smoke, forms on their skin a black and shining cake, through which the native colour, a yellowish brown, is scarcely ever perceptible. Grease in Africa forms the chief distinction of rank,—the rich besmearing themselves with fresh butter, while the poorer classes are obliged to tear the fat from the bowels of slaughtered animals. They assign as a reason for this singular practice an effect which has been readily admitted by judicious travellers, namely, that such a coating has in this climate a most salutary influence in defending them from the rays of the sun, and in averting many cutaneous disorders. Nature seems to have aided the task of disfiguring them, by covering the bead with irregular tufts of hard and coarse hair, and causing singular prominences, composed of fat, to jut out in parts where they are least ornamental. Nor do their habits of life present any thing to redeem this outward deformity. Their kraals consist of a confused crowd of little conical hovels, composed of twigs and earth, in which large families sit and sleep, without having room to stand upright. The fire in the middle fills these mansions with thick smoke, the floors of which are deeply covered with every species of filth. At festivals, when an ox or a sheep is killed, the Hottentots rip open the belly, tear out the entrails, which they throw on the coals, and feast on them before the animal is completely dead. Yet they are a friendly, merry, hospitable race, living together in the greatest affection and harmony. The sluggish and senseless stupidity with which they have been so generally taxed, seems to have been in a great measure produced by their degrading subjection to tire Dutch boors. In their free state they had a republican form of polity, and kon¶uers or captains of the kraal, who led them to war, which they carried on with extreme fury. This commander usually sounded a pipe or flageolet, during which his men fought without intermission; but as soon as the music ceased they began to retreat. The Hottentots direct their darts and throwing-sticks with a sure aim, surround and attack wild animals with skill and vigour, and evade their springs with a dexterity which no European can equal. They tan, dress, and shape skins; make mats of flags and bulrushes; also twist strings for their bows out of the sinews of animals; and even mould iron into cutting instruments with considerable expertness. In their free and happy state they displayed the same passion for the dance and song which is general throughout Africa.”

With respect to his religion, the unenlightened Hottentot, although he believed in a good God and a malignant power, had neither temples nor priests; but with superstitious veneration he hailed the new and full moon with dances and rejoicings, prolonged throughout the night. Certain localities were held sacred as the abodes of departed spirits. Lastly, the Hottentot had a little shining beetle, which he exalted almost to the dignity of a deity. From the cruel treatment which this unfortunate tribe has received from its provincial oppressors, their number at present in the colony does not surpass 15,000. The few kraals of independent Hottentots which still remain on its outer border are supposed to amount to about 10,000.

For a further account of the Hottentots, see the article Africa, vol. i. part ii. p. 226. Under the heads Boshuanas, and Bosjesmans or Bushmen, the tribes which bear these names will be found described.

According to the official returns, the population of the Cape Colony, in 1831, consisted of, whites and free coloured, males 48,672, females 44,043; slaves, males 18,812, females 15,321; total, 126,848. Further returns have since been made by government, and in 1836 the population was 76,987 males, and 73,123 females; total, 150,110.

Good Hope, or Hope Island, an island in the South Pacific Ocean, discovered by Le Maire and Scheuten in 1616. The land is mountainous, and covered with cocoa-nut trees. Long. 174. 50. E. Lat. 16. S.