DUMFRIES, a county in the south of Scotland, is situated between 55. 2. and 55. 31. north latitude, and 3. 53. west longitude. Its greatest length is nearly sixty miles, and its greatest breadth from thirty to thirty-one. The boundaries are Galloway and part of Ayrshire on the south-west; Roxburgh, Selkirk, and Peebles, on the north-east; Lanark on the north-west; and on the southeast the Solway Frith and the county of Cumberland. The principal rivers are the Nith, the Annan, and the Esk, all of which discharge themselves into the Solway Frith. These rivers are fed by numerous tributaries, and the whole of them abound in salmon. The square miles of the county arc calculated at 1006, and the acres at 644,385. Like many other Scottish counties, Dumfriesshire is popularly divided into districts. Of these there are three principal; Eskdale on the east, Annandale in the middle, and Nithsdale on the west, each taking its name from the river which traverses it. From these larger divisions diverge smaller vales, which likewise derive their titles from the streams that flow through them, such as Moffateale, Dryfesdale, and Ewesdale. From various circumstances, the limits of these great divisions are but imperfectly defined, and have recently been abandoned. The Solway Frith waters the base of the county for twenty-four miles, and along its margin the land is generally flat for about ten miles. Beyond this the county expands into a series of hills and valleys, which rise gradually northward till they reach the mountain chain which bounds it in that quarter. The principal elevations are, Lowthers near Wanlockhead, which rises 3150 feet, and Hartfcll in Annandale, which rises 2629 feet above the level of the sea. In former times it was said that 86 miles were in general low arable land, lying on the sea-coast, 322 miles chiefly hilly, and 598 mountainous. But the calculation has been disturbed by the steady progress of bone manure and green crop husbandry. Steeps which it was impossible to sharpen by common manure, from the expense and difficult}’ of transporting it thither, have been brought into excellent heart by ground bones, and improved by at least a hundred per cent, both as crop and pasture land. Many hills which were nearly bare have been covered to their tops with thriving plantations. In the spring of 1833 the Duk¢

of Buccleuch inclosed and planted nearly three hundred acres, on which are now growing more than a million and a half of trees; and it is his grace’s intention to prosecute these improvements a great way further. Still a large proportion of the county is mountainous, and is devoted almost exclusively to sheep farming, which, since the mortality of 1829, has again become very profitable. Judging from the map, nearly a third of the land in the county belongs to the nobleman above mentioned, who possesses a rental of one hundred and fifty thousand pounds yearly, two thirds of which are drawn from Dumfries-shire. In 1811, when the property-tax pressed on the energies of the country, the whole rental of the county was estimated at L.246,001. 12s. 6d.; and although rents have fallen greatly since that period, so marked has been the progress of improvement, that at present (1833) it in all probability exceeds L.300,000 sterling. The principal proprietors are the Duke of Buccleuch, the Marquis of Queensberry, and the Earl of Mansfield; Mr Hope Johnstone of Annandale, General Sharpe of Hoddam, Mr Rogerson of Dumcrieff, Mr Mentcath of Closeburn, and Mr M‘Alpine Leny of Dalswinton.

The climate of Dumfriesshire is mild and salubrious; much of the land has a southern exposure, and, excepting in very severe winters, the snow speedily disappears. The soils are gravel or sand loam, and clay, with moor and moss in some places, particularly along the bed of the Lochar, with alluvial tracts on the banks of the rivers and the Solway Frith. The farms vary greatly in size; but for years there has been a tendency to uproot almost entirely the pendicle system. On the Buccleuch estates the farms are generally extensive. Many excellent steadings of houses have been built, and subdivisions formed over waste tracts, which for centuries remained uninclosed. Since the war the wages of rural labour have been pretty stationary. The usual rate of wages for a ploughman is six pounds per half year, with board and lodging in the case of unmarried men, and a proportionate allowance of meal, potato-land, &c. for hinds with families. House and dairymaids receive from L.2 to L.2. 10s. per half year; day labourers Is. 2d. a day in winter, and Is. 6d. in summer.

At one time the quantity of lime used, or at least worked, in Dumfriesshire, was very great, and it is still far from being inconsiderable. The principal pits are those of Kil-head, Closeburn, and Barjarg; and within the last fifteen years the supply was estimated at 1,200,000 Winchester bushels, valued at L.54,000. The capabilities of the pits are still excellent, but the demand for lime has diminished somewhat, owing to the continued progress of bone dust, a manure which unites to a certain extent the qualities of lime and common dung. Annandale and Nithsdale have profited greatly by this valuable mineral. Mr Menteath of Closeburn is a great land improver, and has converted bogs which were hardly worth five shillings an acre into some of the finest pasture land in the county, by the combined effects of pairing, careful selection of seed, the application of lime, and irrigation. Cattle and sheep are bought at the Falkirk trysts, and fattened during winter and the early part of spring. The latter branch of traffic is yearly extending. The indigenous breed of cattle is still the Galloway, although not always pure and unmixed. Of heavy or drove cattle, about 20,000 head are driven south annually, and their value in good years amounts to nearly L.200,000. Of the sheep fattened no census has yet been given, from the circumstance that they arc mostly conveyed in steam-boats. Mutton has risen in price in the home markets; and there can be no doubt that steam navigation is rapidly equalizing prices in town and country. The sheep are of three kinds; black-faced, Cheviots, and half-breds, the latter being a cross between the Leicester and the [7:8:262]Cheviot. Until 1820, hardly a single half-bred appeared at Lockerby Hill; now, however, they are quite common, and appear to be gaining as fast on the Cheviots as the latter are gaining on the black-faced. Pig husbandry is much cultivated in Dumfries-shire and Galloway; and a large proportion of the hogs reared in the stewartry are sold in Dumfries, and cured in Annandale and Cumberland. The curing trade lasts for about three months, commencing in December and ending in February. The sales are all paid in ready money, and instances have occurred in which green pork to the amount of L.6000 has been sold before breakfast on a Wednesday morning. The curers have good and bad seasons; but the capital required induces caution, and it is a faet that bankruptcy is nearly unknown among the bacon traders of the district. The hams of Dumfriesshire are so much esteemed that they are frequently sold in London under the name of Westphalian. Those who farm pendicles trust mainly to their pigs when rent-day comes round; and the trade every year brings L.3000 into Johnstone, which is equal to the landed rental of the parish. Its annual value to the district, including the eurer’s profit, must be very nearly L. 100,000 sterling.

The manufactures of the county are dressed leather, hosiery, clogs, and carpets. The cotton mill at Langholm has ceased to work, and such weavers as remain there are supplied with webs by the manufacturers of Carlisle. In Dumfries and other parts of the district the same class of persons derives employment from the city of Glasgow. The hosiery trade exceeds L.20,000 per annum, and that of dressed leather is probably double this amount. The carpet and spinning and dyeing manufactory at Cra-wick Mill, in the neighbourhood of Sanquhar, employs 150 persons, young and middle aged. It consumes nearly 5000 stones of wool, and produces 70,000 yards of carpeting yearly. The wages average from L.180 to L.200 monthly.

Although, as we have already remarked, Dumfriesshire is mountainous, its lakes are inferior to those of Galloway, both as to number and extent. We must make an exception, however, in favour of the Castle Loch of Loehmaben. Bruce’s castle stood on a promontory on the farther side of the loch; but it is so much dilapidated that such artists as sketch iteontrive to hide the nakedness of bare unashlared walls by the enlivening sereen of green trees. In some of the lakes a singular fish is found, which naturalists term the vendace, and which is supposed to be peculiar to this place, if we except, perhaps, the lake of Geneva. At the “four towns of Hightae,” in the neighbourhood, King Robert granted feus to a ela t ^s of persons who were known as “the king’s kindly tenants.” Their possessions are small, but the land is rich, and they sit at almost a nominal rent. They are a peculiar race, who live in a little world of their own, and are beginning to feel the effects of continued isolation and intermarriage among the members of their own tribe. Loch Skene, about ten miles from Moffat, is the only other lake of consequence. It is 1300 feet above the level of the sea; the scenery around is stern and savage in a high degree; and its superfluous waters, in eseaping to the strath or valley below, foam and leap from the dizzying heights above, and form the fine caseade called the gray mares tail.

Considerable quantities of salmon are caught in the Nith, and in the stake-nets at Caerlaveroek and Annan Water Foot. The finny tribes push into other streams, such as the Milk, the Esk, the Ewes, and the Wauehope; and in former times were speared in Moffat water. The supply of red fish is augmented by importations from Galloway.

The lower parts of Dumfriesshire consist of various varieties of sandstone, the layers of which generally dip to the Solway. There is a considerable body of limestone, as we have already observed. Iron in different forms is also found in the strata. Marl abounds in various parts, and of freestone and whinstone there is abundance everywhere. Marble is also procured, and employed for some purposes; a little slate is likewise found. Coal in considerable quantities exists at the two extremities of the county, Sanquhar and Langholm; and, with one or two exceptions, all the pits belong to the Duke of Buccleuch. Lengthened land-carriage prevents the tacksmen from competing with the coal miners of England; and consequently the town of Dumfries and many parts of the county are supplied with fuel from Workington and Maryport. The trade employs a considerable amount of tonnage. The lead mines at Wanlockhead and Leadhills belong to the Duke of Buccleuch and the Earl of Hopetoun. Their capabilities at present are nearly equal, but both have declined greatly, from the importation of Spanish lead, the increased difficulty of working the shafts, and the poverty of the ore. For thirty years previously to 1828 each of the places mentioned produced about 700 tons of smelted lead annually; the price was L.23 per ton, and the gross revenue L.20,700. The Duke of Buceleuch and the Earl of Hopetoun received a sixth part each of the produce as rent, and netted respectively L.3450 per annum. Both have reduced the rent; the first to one twelfth, and the second to one eighth of the produce; and their incomes from this source have fallen to L.700 and L.1000 annually. Neither mine at present produces more than 650 tons of smelted lead annually, and the price has fallen to L.13 per ton. The consequences may be anticipated. Wanlockhead and Leadhills are no longer what they were, whether as regards the numbers, the comfort, or the intelligence of the mining population.

The mineral waters of Moffat are well known, but the spas in other parts of the county are too obscure to require special notice. The chalybeate at Hartfell acts as a powerful tonie, and contains, of sulphate of iron eighty-four grains, sulphate of alumina twelve, oxide of iron fifteen, and five inches of azotic gas, in a wine gallon. This spring was discovered about eighty years ago, but is too remote from the village to be of much use. The other spring, which is much more accessible, is strongest and best at the fountain-head, and probably the walk or ride (about a mile and a half) does as much good to invalids as the wa’ ter. The Moffat Spa contains, muriate of soda thirty-six grains, sulphuretted hydrogen gas ten cubic inches, azotic gas four inches, carbonic acid gas five inches. More than two centuries have elapsed since this spring was discovered. A few years ago baths, with a pump and readingroom, were erected by subscription in Moffat, at an expense of L.2000; an immense improvement, which has greatly increased the annual number of visitors. Annan, Lockerby, and Langholm, are all thriving, well-built towns. The scenery of the latter place is much admired, particularly the ride along the banks of the Esk to Longtown.

The county sends one member to parliament, and the united burghs of Dumfries, Annan, Loehmaben, Sanquhar, and Kirkcudbright, a second. The population amounted in 1821 to 70,878, and in 1831 to 73,770, increase 2892.

Duivífries, the capital of the above county, is a royal burgh of considerable antiquity, although the period at which it became incorporated is not exactly known. During the border wars it was frequently stormed, and the public records were destroyed. The current belief, however, is, that it received its charter before the middle of the eleventh century, as a gravestone was discovered a number of years ago, bearing the date 1079, and mentioning that the individual whose ashes it covered had been conspicuous as a merchant and burgess of the town. From [7:8:263]this time it gradually increased in importance; and in the year 1307, Edward the Second appointed the estates of Scotland to assemble on the banks of the Nith. In certain chronicles the ancient name of the town is said to have been Cotiac, but this we suspect is mere fancy. It seems much more probable that, like many other places, it derived its name from its physical appearances and character. In remote times the Gaelic was spoken on both sides of the Frith of Forth; and we concur in the etymology of Mr George Chalmers, who conceives the word to be composed of dun a castle, and fries ü ridge. Dumfries, which may be regarded as the capital of the south of Scotland, is beautifully situated on the left bank of the river Nith, thirty-five miles below its source, and upwards of ten above the point where its waters mingle with and are lost in the Solway. The Nith in point of size ranks fifth among the rivers of Scotland, and is navigable from Carsethorn to Glencaple quay, even for vessels of considerable burthen. In consequence of the extraordinary manner in which the tides ebb and flow in the Solway during the winter months, the river is similarly affected.

The origin of the town appears to have been owing to a strong castle, which flourished as a border fortress during the twelfth century, and frequently became an object of contention, both prior and subsequent to the times of Wallace and Bruce. Of this stronghold not a vestige remains; but the street occupying the ground on which it stood retains the name, and is likely to do so till the latest ages. In razing what remained of this place of strength, the local authorities, more than a century ago, found materials for building the new church. The Gray Friars, like the castle, attracted settlers; and, as early as the thirteenth century, the old bridge was planned and built at the expense of the Lady Devorgilla, third daughter of Alan, lord of Galloway, and grandmother to John Cumin, who was slain by Robert Bruce in the above-mentioned cathedral in the beginning of the year 1305. Originally it consisted of thirteen arches, and was guarded at the middle by a gate or port, which was removed in 1769, to lessen the central pressure when the structure became frail. This bridge, which still remains, and is crossed every day by foot passengers, was certainly a wonderful erection for the time; and, accordingly, the writer of a work entitled A Journey through Scotland, published by J. Pemberton, London, in 1723, says, “I passed the river Nith from Galloway to Dumfries over a fair stone bridge of thirteen arches, the finest I saw in Britain next to London and Rochester.” A right of toll was attached to the bridge, which in 1789, according to Captain Grose, yielded a yearly rental of three hundred pounds, and which at the present day, a little higher up the river, produces to the town five hundred pounds sterling. The new bridge was commenced in 1793, and finished in 1795. The original contract price was L.4500, but as no rock could be found at one point, the landstool on the Dumfries side was founded on piles of wood, and for this the commissioners of supply allowed an additional sum of L.500.

After Bruce had committed the crime already mentioned, and commenced that career which terminated at last in the redemption of his country from a foreign yoke, he became a mark for the vengeance of Edward of England. His friends and adherents also suffered along with him. Amongst these, Sir Christopher Seaton was betrayed by a pretended friend of the name of Macnab, apprehended at the Castle of Lochore in Fifeshire, marched to Dumfries, and barbarously executed on the Gallows-Hill, a slight eminence on the north-eastern side of the town, better known by the name of the Christell Chapel. Bruce sincerely regretted his fate, and, in the words of Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, said, “ ‘ It is ane pity that sa noble ane knight should die sa cruel ane dead.’ And incontinent in the same place where he was standing when the tidings came to him, garred found a chapel in honour of the Virgin Mary; and, in remembrance of the said Sir Christell, founded a priest to devine service therein perpetually, and pray for the said Sir Christell; and gave to the said priest and his successors the sum of L.5 sterling, to be taken of the barony of Carlaverock, for their sustena-tion.” The ruins of the Christell Chapel were visible in the beginning of 1715; but when the Jacobite rebellion broke out in Scotland, the inhabitants of Dumfries hastily constructed a rampart, and during the operation the ruins of the old chapel disappeared, the line of fortification having passed close by their site. It is evident, from the traces of the foundation, that the building must have been very small. When Lord Scroop made an excursion in 1570 for the purpose of plunder, the chief magistrate of Dumfries, at the head of the burgesses, joined Lord Maxwell in opposing the invaders. They fought gallantly, but were unfortunately defeated. Dumfries suffered considerably during the reigns of Charles the First and Second. In 1617 it was visited by James the Sixth whilst returning to England. It was at this period that the incorporated trades received from James what is called the “siller gun,” which was ordered to be shot for at stated periods, with the view of fostering their martial spirit, and skill in the exercises performed at the wappinshaw. This relic is still in existence, and the custom is yet observed at the distance of seven or nine years, more as a holiday exercise than for any other purpose. The trades muster in great strength, borrow guns far and wide, spend three fourths of the day in shooting, return to an entertainment in their hall in the evening; and the “siller gun,” after being won, is worn for a short period by the best marksman. This festival forms the subject of a poem, written by Mr John Mayne, and which is praised for its humour and spirit in the notes appended to the Lady of the Lake.

Almost no town in Scotland stood forward half so prominently as Dumfries did at the period of the union in 1707. On the 20th of November of the preceding year, according to Chalmers, two hundred Cameronians entered the burgh, issued a manifesto against the great pending measure, and burnt the articles at the market-cross. The last cofnmotion of any consequence occurred in 1715, when the Viscount Kenmure hung on the heights of Ten-wald, willing to do mischief, and yet timid as to the means and manner of attack. By a well-managed stratagem he was induced to depart; and this is believed to have been the last occasion on which the ancient war-cry of the town, “Lereburn,” or “A Lereburn,” was heard.

Dumfries is the seat of a presbytery, synod, sheriff’s court, record of sasines, and four banks, branches of the principal companies of Scotland. There are two churches in connection with the establishment, an episcopalian, a catholic, and a number of other chapels supported by dissenters.

In 1745, the Pretender and his rebel army, whilst retreating from England, paid a domiciliary visit to the town of Dumfries; and for a misdemeanour committed against some of his followers on their march southward, the town was compelled to pay a fine, which amounted altogether to L.4000 sterling. In 1750, however, the crown granted to Dumfries L.2800 out of a forfeited estate.

Hosiery, leather, hats, wooden shoes, and baskets, are the only manufactures worth naming in Dumfries. Cotton checks at one time were woven on speculation in considerable quantities; but the trade has declined. The stocking trade gives employment to about 300 persons, and produces annually not less than L.20,000 sterling. The tanning trade, as regards money, is also considerable. An [7:8:264] extensive grazing district is fertile in hides, notwithstanding the great number of bullocks that are driven south; and in good years dressed leather brings a return amounting to about L.30,000. Wooden shoes or clogs were long peculiar to Dumfricsshire and the lower part of Galloway; but the trade is increasing, and promotes greatly the health of such as are exposed to outdoor labour. Of these shoes more than L.1000 worth are annually disposed of in Dumfries alone.

In the year 1831 the tonnage of Dumfries stood as follows: Foreign vessels inwards 1071 tons, coasting do. 20,463, goods 6320, coal 11,461, and lime 219; income to the commissioners of navigation L.870. 12s. 8d. In the same year vessels that cleared outwards paid duty on 5123 tons register, and on goods 2735 tons. Foreign vessels are charged at the rate of sixpence per ton, coasters twopence; goods one shilling and twopence, and lime and coal sixpence. The united income of the commissioners in the year above mentioned amounted to L.1072. 17s. 4d∙ The exports consist chiefly of grain, bark, wool, and hosiery; and the imports of coal, timber, and goods.

The infirmary was built more than fifty years ago, and the hospital or poor-house in 1753. Both are well endowed, though supported partly by subscriptions; and the former expends fully L.1000 annually on medicine and other necessary outlays. The infirmary, since the time it was founded, has received in the shape of donations L.18,000, and the hospital L.6000; and the expenditure of the latter is about L.600 annually. In connection with such institutions, it may be noticed that the town was some time since left nearly L.100,000 to be employed for charitable purposes. Dumfries possesses an excellent academy, where Greek, Latin, French, English, mathematics, geography, drawing, &c. are taught. It has also a very handsome theatre. In 1826 a gas-work was erected in Dumfries, and has since flourished well. There is a weekly market, which is held on Wednesday, when a great deal of business is transacted.

Since the year 1817, Dumfries has improved rapidly in appearance, although nearly stationary as to population. The High Street, which is broad and spacious, is one continued series of shops, which are nearly as handsome as the same description of buildings in Edinburgh or Glasgow.

St Michael’s church-yard attracts the notice of all strangers. It is to a great extent a city of tombs, and has been frequently referred to as the Westminster of Scotland. Many of the monuments are very beautiful; and amongst these there is a sumptuous one over the ashes of the celebrated poet Burns.

The situation of Dumfries is admired by all tourists. With the exception of the point where it dips to the ocean, it is surrounded.by a chain of hills, many of which are green to the top, and undulate in a very pleasing manner. In point of latitude, Dumfries is nearly a degree farther south than Edinburgh, and considerably more than a degree in climate. The chilling east winds which prevail so much on the east coast of Scotland arc but little felt on the banks of the Nith; and pulmonary complaints, though not unknown, are comparatively unfrequent.

In 1831 the population of Dumfries, burgh and parish, was returned at 11,606 souls, being an increase on the preceding census of 554. Apart from the landward part of the parish, Dumfries contains about 9500 inhabitants. In Troqueer, on the opposite side of the river, the present population is 4665; but here again there is a distinction between the burgh and the parish, Maxwelltown containing above 3000 inhabitants, and the country part of Tro-queer little more than 1000. Both localities are recognized in law, the one being a royal, and the other a burgh of barony of some standing; and as they are merely divided by a running stream spanned by two stone bridges, they may be considered as forming parts of the same town. The population in round numbers is 13,000.