ARGYLESHIRE or Argyllshire, an extensive county in the west of Scotland, is usually described under two great divisions,—the mainland, and" such of the Western Islands as-are politically attached to it. It is of the former only that we propose to give some account at present, referring to the article Hebrides for the islands noted below,^[1. ose of the first rate are Islay, Mull, and Jura; of the second, Gigha and Cara, Colonsay, Lismore, Tyree, Coll, Ulva and . + m θ l L Kerreray Luing, Seil or Saoil; and of the third, Scarba, Lunga, Shuna, Ičolmkill or Iona, Kisdale, Inch Kenneth, Stafla, Monk, Rum, and Cannay. b ] which form a part of this comity.

The mainland of Argyleshire, situate between 55° 21' and 57° north latitude, and between l o 22' and 3° 25' of longitude west from Edinburgh, is bounded on the north by Inverness-shire, on the east by the counties of Perth and Dumbarton, on the south by the Irish Sea, and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean; the Frith of Clyde, which separates it from the shire of Renfrew, forming its boundary on the south-east. Its greatest length, from the Mull of Kintyre on the south to the point of Ardnamur-chan on the north, is. 115 miles; its breadth above 68; and from the windings of the numerous bays and creeks with which the land is everywhere, indented, it is supposed[7:3:483] to have more than 600 miles of sea-coast. The mainland of Argyleshire is divided into 35 parishes, nine of which are united, reducing the number to 26: two in part belong to Inverness-shire, and only one is altogether inland. The extent of this part of the county is equal to about one thirteenth part of the whole of Scotland, the land comprehending 2200 square miles, and the lakes 60.

The general features of the country are varied and striking in a high degree, consisting of lofty mountains, deep glens, and inlets of the sea entering far into the land. Towards the northern parts it assumes the wild and savage grandeur so peculiarly characteristie of the Highlands of Scotland. Mountains piled on mountains in magnificent disorder present a sublime, but, in an agricultural point of view, a very unpromising prospect; yet in the most barren districts the hills supply pasture for sheep in considerable numbers; and on the valleys and low grounds are raised oats, bere or big, and potatoes, part of which latter produce is exported. Some of the mountains are among the loftiest in Scotland, particularly Ben Cruachan, which rises 3390 feet above the level of the sea; and on the borders towards the counties of Perth and Dumbarton, the mountains contiguous to Ben Lomond are little inferior to it in height. The inlets of the sea are very numerous. Amongst others are Loeh Fine, Loeh Etive, Loch Welford, Loeh Linnhe, Loch Leven, &c. The district of Kintyre enters into the north channel, and is almost divided from the mainland at the narrow isthmus of Tarbat. The district of Cowal is also nearly peninsulated by Loch Long on the one side and Loch Fine on the other. The interior parts of the county are interspersed with a great number of small fresh-water lakes. A barrenness of soil and scanty vegetation prevail chiefly on the summits of the higher mountains, which exhibit great masses of stratified rocks or groups in a columnar form. Some of the glens are covered with large fragments of these which have been precipitated from the impending cliffs, and consequently afford but scanty pasturage; however, the greater part of them yield good grass. Others of them exhibit miles of fertility, verdure, and cultivation, particularly Glendarual, the most prolific valley of the county. Formerly Argyleshire was interspersed with numerous woods, which, uniting with the lofty mountains, formed the most romantic scenery. But these have been almost all cut down or destroyed to make way for the introduction of sheep; and planting has not, except in a few instances, been carried to any considerable extent. The late duke of Argyle planted very extensively in the neighbourhood of 1nverary, and several other gentlemen have followed his example; nevertheless, one of the most striking features in the aspect of the county is its want of wood. Remains of ancient forests are still very extensive in various places; and these consist chiefly of oaks, ashes, pines, and birches. The level of the country towards the southern parts descends the nearest to an equality with that of the sea. The elevation of the country is highest towards the interior parts of the counties of Perth and Inverness.

she fallow-deer, which formerly abounded in the woods and on the mountains, are now only to be seen in the preserves of a few gentlemen; but forest deer are still found in considerable numbers in Glenetive and in Mull. Roes are pretty numerous in the northern parts of the county, and moor game are also found in abundance. The blackcattle, which in former times ran wild on the mountains, are now entirely confined to the low grounds, where their young are fed in winter by the proprietors. Fish are not at all so abundant as is generally supposed; for although white fish are taken in considerable numbers, particularly in the neighbourhood of Campbeltown, still the quantity is small compared with what is taken on other parts of the Scotish coast; and Loeh Fine is the only inlet of the sea distinguished for its herring-fishery. There are valuable metals to be found in this county, such as copper, lead, and iron; and also some minerals, particularly strontian.

The only crops cultivated to any extent in the mainland of Argyleshire are bere or big, oats, and potatoes. Wheat is raised near Campbeltown, and in other parts of Kintyre; but the quantity is very small, the climate being too wet and variable for its successful cultivation. But the management of potatoes in this district is equal to that of any other part of Scotland, and great quantities are annually exported from it. Turnips and sown grasses are pretty common in the southern, and, among the larger farmers, in the northern districts. Clovers are also frequent; but notwithstanding that these and other green crops are better adapted to the climate than grain, they have not yet come into extensive culture. The principal object in the culture of big is the supply of the distilleries. The great body of the inhabitants live almost exclusively on oatmeal and potatoes, of the former of which they have been in the practice of importing about 20,000 bolls (of 140 lbs.) annually. The progress of agriculture in this county has been greatly retarded, both by the nature of the land and the political condition of the people. .Out of 1,408,000 acres, only 125,000 are arable; and these are scattered unconnected over a broad and broken surface, on the sides of bills, or in valleys between rocky eminences, particularly in the northern districts. Another obstacle to improvement will be found in the remains of the feudal system. This county is peopled with a few great proprietors, and a numerous small tenantry, servile in their habits to their superiors, ignorant and indolent in their character, and in their domestic economy presenting all the repulsive features of poverty. Of the valued rent, taken in 1751, of the mainland, with four small islands, amounting to L.9924. 8s. Id., almost a fourth belongs to two proprietors. This valuation was considered to be equal to the half of the real rent at that period, after deducting all public burdens; but in 1798, when the agricultural survey of the county was published, the gross rental had risen to L.89,000, collected from upwards of 2700 tenants; and in 1811 the rent of the whole county, of which the islands might produce about a fifth, amounted to L.192,073. 14s. 2d. for the lands, and for the houses to L.5208. 18s. 10d. But the most important obstacles to agricultural improvement arc inefficient draining, the want of leases, the high rack-rents that are generally exacted, and the system of letting farms to small tenants, who possess the grass in common, and have “rig about” of the arable land, which they exchange with each other every second year. But Kintyre must be an exception from the remarks upon the county in general. In that district agriculture is more encouraged, and consequently more prosperous. Indeed it cannot be denied that the county throughout has been considerably improved, but certainly not to the extent of its resources; and it is to be hoped that the frequent transference of landed property which has taken place within the last fifty years, and the example and encouragement of the late duke of Argyle, the greatest landholder in it, cannot fail to extend a more beneficial system of rural economy. It may be remarked, that of late years considerable numbers of the inhabitants, and those not of the poorest class, have emigrated to America.

Cattle were long the principal source of the revenue C of the landholders and tenantry of Argyleshire; and the si native breed, which has been improved of late by more careful, treatment, is well known to be equal, if not supe [7:3:484] rior, to any other race of cattle in the kingdom. Their number in 1798 was computed at upwards of 50,000, and they are understood to have increased considerably since; for though they are now excluded from the more elevated tracts, which are better occupied by sheep, the improved management of the lower grounds, small as it is compared with what it might be, has, upon the whole, enlarged the means of their subsistence. These cattle are sent from the country in a store condition, commonly when about three years old, and fatted on the pastures of the south, the greater number for the consumption of England. Dairy husbandry is practised to some extent in the southern parts of Kintyre, where there is a large proportion of arable land; but it cannot be extended to the inland and more mountainous districts of the county.

Until the middle of last century, the only sheep in Argyleshire were of the small native race, and their number was inconsiderable; but these have entirely disappeared, and we do not know that there is a single animal of the breed to be found, except in the most distant islands of the Hebrides. The black-faced is the species that is now almost universally reared. About the period above referred to, coarse-woolled heath sheep were introduced into the higher and more barren districts; and as it was soon discovered that the scanty herbage of these gloomy mountains could be converted into a much greater quantity of mutton than of beef, besides yielding a valuable article of manufacture, these hardy animals soon spread over extensive regions, upon which cattle could barely subsist in the summer months; and the income of the landed proprietors and of the public was accordingly augmented in proportion. At present probably two fifths of the whole rent of land paid in the county arises from the produce of the sheep-farm. Notwithstanding the outcry of ignorance, and the more mischievous speculations of mistaken philanthropy, the introduction of this species of live stock, now increased to about 300,000, has not had the effect of diminishing the population of Argyleshire.

In this division of the county there is a considerable extent of natural coppice-wood, probably near 40,000 acres, which are cut periodically, commonly every 19 or 20 years, and at one time the returns were at the rate of about 20s. per acre annually; but the value of this article has of late greatly diminished. Very extensive plantations have been formed by the duke of Argyle and other proprietors. Those of his Grace are reckoned to contain 2,000,000 of trees, worth 4s. each, amounting to the enormous sum of L.400,000.

The great extent of sea-coast which Argyleshire possesses, and the nature of the county, penetrated as it is in almost every direction by arms of the sea, and traversed by extensive lakes, afford ample facilities for the prosecution of fisheries; but, either from the unproductiveness of the waters, or the want of vigour and perseverance in the fishermen, with the exception of those of Loch Fine, the fisheries have neither been extensive nor lucrative. The white-fishing especially has been neglected. Enterprising fishermen might certainly greatly increase, the produce in this branch, which would be of essential benefit to the inhabitants of so ungenial a territory. In Loch Fine alone, in the years 1794 and 1795, the herrings caught were computed to be worth more than L.89,000 (Smith’s Sur- ve lh 1798); but the fisheries there have of late years greatly fallen off.

The mainland of Argyleshire is principally composed of primitive rocks, which in some quarters are skirted and intermixed with those of the transition class, while floetz rocks occur very sparingly. No volcanic rocks have hitherto been met with in the mainland of Argyleshire, but those of an alluvial nature abound everywhere. The primitive and transition rocks are stratified, and the general direction of the strata is from north-east to south-west. The primitive rocks are granite, gneiss, mica slate, clay slate, limestone, porphyry, sienite, trap, and quartz rocķ. The transition rocks are greywacke, greywacke slate, clay slate, trap, and quartz; and the floetz rocks are red sandstone, conglomerate, and rocks of the coal formation. The islands off the coast of Argyleshire afford highly· interesting examples of rocks of the different classes: Isla and Jura, of the primitive and transition rocks; Mul], of floetz and primitive rocks; Staffa, Rum, and Canny, of floetz rocks; and Coll, Tyree, and Iona, of primitive rocks.

Coal has been wrought for many years near Campbelltown in Kintyre, and lead at Strontian in Sunart; and besides the slate quarries of Easdale, an island belonging to this county, others have been opened at Ballachelish in Appin, and on the islands of Belnahua, Luing, Seil, and Kerrara.

Manufactures have made little progress in this district, and no attempts to establish them upon a large scale have yet been successful. Mr Dale endeavoured to extend to it some branches of the cotton manufacture, which failed, it is said, from want of water-carriage; but a number of weavers in Campbeltown and its neighbourhood have been employed for some time in working cottons from Glasgow. The late duke of Argyle established a woollen manufactory near Inverary, which languished for some time, and was finally abandoned many years ago. There is a bleachfield in Kintyrc, a tannery at Campbeltown, and another at Oban, which, however, has not been wrought for several years; and there are iron-works in Upper Lorn, belonging to an English company, who bring the ore thither chiefly for the sake of the charcoal which the woods afford. The manufacture of kelp from sea-weed, to the extent of 800 tons annually, is none of the least profitable branches of industry; and that of their scanty crops of grain into ardent spirits, certainly the most pernicious.

The commerce of Argyleshire is also very limited, its < exports consisting chiefly of raw produce: sheep, cattle, and fish, format least two thirds of the whole; and slates, oak bark, and kelp, constitute nearly the remainder. The imports are almost confined to the supply of necessaries, principally oatmeal and flour, and such articles of luxury as habit has rendered scarcely less indispensable.

Thus, notwithstanding its natural advantages, this county is far from being characteristic either of wealth or industry. It was expected that the Crinan Canal, which was cut across the peninsula of Kintyre, at an expense of L.140,000, shortening the voyage from the West Highland and Hebridean ports to the river Clyde about 200 miles, would cause an influx of wealth to the county; but neither it nor the Caledonian Canal, which gives access from the county to the German Ocean, has answered the expectations of the projectors, or contributed in any eminent degree to the prosperity of Argyleshire. Indeed, but for steam navigation, both would have been nearly useless; and even with that accessory, there is no adequate return for the vast sums expended on them.

This county still contains many ancient monuments,! which display the warlike spirit of its former inhabitants. In the course of the eighth and ninth centuries it was conquered, along with the neighbouring isles, by the Danes and Norwegians. For five or six centuries it continued under the dominion of Norway, and during that period was under the direct administration of feudal chieftains, generally of Norwegian extraction, who each maintained an almost independent government. Along with the Hebridean isles, all the western parts of Argyle became the conquest of the Scotish monarchs in the 14th century. Some time after, Macdonald, the representative of [7:3:485]this region, obtained leave from the Scotish crown to hold his possessions as a feudatory to that kingdom; but, from his turbulent spirit, he and his family were engaged in perpetual rebellions, which were at last punished by the forfeiture of their estates, which, along with their titles, were bestowed on the Campbells; and these have ever since retained them in peace and loyalty, beloved and honoured by their country. The county of Argyle gives the title of Duke and Earl to the chief of this family, who likewise enjoys several other important posts under the crown. His vassals are so numerous, that in former times he could on occasion bring 3000 or 4000 fighting men into the field. This clan is numerous in Argyleshire, and there are a great number of castles and seats belonging to gentlemen who hold of the duke, and boast themselves descended from his family.

- The county sends one member to parliament; it is also the seat of a provincial synod. It contains two royal boroughs and 49 parishes.

The population of the whole county, as taken under the last population acts of 1811 and 1821, will be seen from the following tables.
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