MISSISSIPPI, one of the United States of North America, is situated between 88° 30 ’ and 91 β 50° of west longitude, and 30° 8 ’ and 35° of north latitude. It is bounded on the north by Tennessee, on the south by the Gulf of Mexicoand part of Louisiana, on the east by Alabama, and on the west by Louisiana and the River Mississippi. It is above three hundred miles in length, and one hundred and sixty miles in average breadth, containing a superficies of fifty thousand square miles. The surface of this state is diversified by a number of distinct ranges of hills of moderate elevation, besides a succession of eminences called bluffs, which in some cases approach to the river, and at other times are seen several miles from it. The bases of the Walnut Hills, Grand Gulf, Natchez, White Cliff's, and Loftus Heights, are washed by the river Mississippi. Two of these ranges divide the state nearly in its whole extent, and separate it into sectional divisions. As we recede from the river, the bluffs spread out into a kind of undulating table-land, but in many instances the richest table-lands have precipitous benches, by which they are exposed to what agriculturists technically term “washing.” By this casualty the land is divided into deep ravines, and the richest parts of the state are subjected to it. In the northern part of the state, which is undulating, the soil is deep, black, and rich, and in its natural state is, to a considerable extent, covered with cane-brakes, like some of the more southern parts of the state. The north-west part of the state is agreeably variegated with hills and valleys of great fertility, and fine springs abound.
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In the lower parts of Mississippi, bordering on the river, rocks, stones of any size, and even gravel, are seldom seen above ground. The whole western limit of this state is washed by the river Mississippi, which has here a remarkably circuitous course. The flat margin of the river on this side is less valuable than similar soil upon the opposite bank. It is an inundated swamp, thinly inhabited, and covered with dense forests.

The most considerable river whose course is wholly confined to the state is the Yazoo. It rises near the limits of Tennessee, and, taking a north-westerly course, flows through a high, pleasant, and salubrious country, which, however, is chiefly claimed and inhabited by Indians. There is a fine building stone on this river, in situations favourable for conveyance to New Orleans. The next in importance is the Pearl, which is navigable for fifty miles. The Paseagoula, which has a course of two hundred and fifty miles before it falls into the Gulf of Mexico is likewise capable of considerable navigation. The Big Black, which, measuring its meanders, has a course of two hundred miles, is navigable for fifty miles. It enters the Mississippi just above the Grand Gulf. The Homochitto is also a considerable stream, but the other rivers and creeks are comparatively small.

The climate of Mississippi is thus adapted to the growth of cotton. It is mild, and in some parts delightful; but the state being exposed to the winds of the north-west, the winters are occasionally severe, though very irregular in point of temperature. From the swampy nature of the western border, this part of Mississippi is not very healthy ∙, the other parts, however, are salubrious. A considerable portion of this state still remains in its primitive condition, and is covered with thick forests of oak, hickory, lime, sassafras, cotton-wood, magnolia, poplar, and other valuable trees; and the swamps abound with cypress. Almost all kinds of grain, fruits, and vegetables can be cultivated. The sugar-cane has hitherto been attempted only upon its southern frontier. The sweet orange is raised in some parts, and in the middle regions figs, grapes, and other fruits arrive at full perfection. But the grand staple of the state is cotton, and hitherto it has been found more profitable than any other production, although its price has diminished nearly two thirds within these few years. Most of the respectable farmers raise Indian corn enough to meet their own consumption, and also rear hogs sufficient to supply them with bacon.

When Mississippi was admitted into the Union in 1817,. the government agreed that, after paying a debt of 1,250,000 dollars to Georgia, and indemnifying certain claimants, five per cent, of the net proceeds of the public lands lying within the state shall be applied to the formation of roads and canals. To facilitate this end several privileges were granted, such as exemption of the public lands from taxation; and in 1829 a board of internal improvement was formed, for the purpose of carrying the views of government into effect. In consequence of this arrangement, a number of railways and canals have been constructed, or are in progress. Ample public funds have also been set apart for the endowment of schools, but education is not very generally diffused, as the legislature has not enforced the establishment and support of suitable schools. An institution called a college has been incorporated at Shieldsborough, and another, called Jefferson College, at Washington, near Natchez. Besides these, there are a few flourishing seminaries of education in the principal towns. The religious bodies in this state are Methodists, Baptists, Presbyterians, Roman Catholics, and Episcopalians. The following is a tabular view of the population of the counties and county towns, according to the census of 1830.
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Natchez is much the largest town, and the principal seat of commercial transactions. It is romantically situated on the east bank of the river Mississippi, on a very high bluff, about two hundred and eighty miles above New Orleans, in long. 91° 25' west, and lat. 31° 34' north. It is the principal town in this region for the shipment of cotton to New Orleans. Great numbers of boats are always lying here, and in the autumn and winter Natehez presents an animated and bustling aspect, but in summer little business is transacted. The streets are broad; many of the buildings are in very good style, and the whole has the appearance of cleanliness, comfort, and opulence. The Bank of the State of Mississippi, a United States’ Branch Bank, and the Planters’ Branch Bank, are at Natehez. The first has a capital of one million, and the last a capital of three millions of dollars.

Monticello is a flourishing village situated on Pearl River, and was some years ago the seat of government; but Jackson, near the head of the same stream, is now the political metropolis. It has a central, healthy, and pleasant situation, but the inhabitants are not numerous. Vicksburgh, below the Walnut Hills, on the Mississippi, has risen up within these few years, and has already become a place of great trade. Gibson Post, which is situated on Bayou Pierre, about thirty-five miles above Natehez, is a village of considerable importance. Shieldsborough, Greenville, Woodville, Winchester, Washington, and Warrenton, are also flourishing places.

On the 1st of January 1832, the unsold lands, to which the Indian and the foreign titles had been extinguished, amounted to 21,211,465 acres. At the same date the Indians still claimed 6,529,280 acres, and 733,244 acres had been set apart for the erection of schools and for government purposes. The manufactures and shipping of this state are too unimportant to require particular mention. In 1836 there were in Mississippi five banks, to which a number of branches were attached. Printing was introduced about the beginning of the present century, and in 1834 thirteen newspapers were published within the state.

Mississippi was admitted into the Union in 1817. The constitution and laws bear a common resemblance to those of the other states. The legislative body is styled a general assembly, consisting of a senate which is elected triennially, and a house of representatives which is elected annually. The rights of citizenship are enjoyed by those who have a freehold or an interest in real estate. The governor serves two years, and is eligible only four years out of six. The judiciary consists of a supreme and circuit court, together with subordinate courts appointed by the legislature. The judges are appointed by the legislature, and hold their offices during good behaviour. The state is divided into seven circuits or districts, and one judge and a district attorney are chosen by the electors of each district; and a circuit court is held in each county twice every year. This court has original jurisdiction in civil causes, in which the sum in controversy exceeds fifty dollars. All persons above twenty-one years of age, and citizens of the United States, are electors.

A great number of Indians still hold possession of considerable tracts of country in this state. The principal tribes are the Chactaws and Chickasaws, the number of the former being estimated at 20,000, and that of the latter at about 4000. T hey are at present in a semi-savage state; but many of them have good houses, slaves, enclosures, and cattle. Schools have been established amongst them for the reception of Indian pupils, and there are missionary stations whence the truths of Christianity are diff used over the country.

Valley of the Mississippi. —This name has been given to the vast tract of country which is watered by the Mississippi river and its numerous tributary streams, and which is included between the Alleghany and the Rocky Mountains. Mr Flint, in his volume descriptive of this large and important part of North America, also includes in it those portions which are watered by the comparatively small rivers Mobile, Pearl, and others of West Florida on the east side, and the Sabine, Brassas, and Colorado of Texas on the west side. If we include the minor valleys traversed by these streams, the great valley of the Mississippi is bounded on the south by the Gulf of Mexico and extends on the south-east to Cape Florida. Running along that cape in a northerly direction, the boundary on the east passes those table elevations which separate the waters of the Mobile and Tombigbee from those of the rivers of East Florida; thence it proceeds through what has been designated the country of the Indian nations, and touching the north-western extremity of Georgia, it reaches the Alleghany Mountains, which constitute the eastern boundary. On the north no mountain ridges indicate the line of demarcation between this valley and the basins of the lakes, or between the waters of the Mississippi, and those which flow northward into Lake Winnipeg, Hudson’s Bay,· and the Arctic Ocean; but the valley is generally considered as terminating on the north where it begins to receive its waters. The Rocky Mountains define the western boundary; and one of the southern ridges of this chain divides the waters of Arkansas and Red Rivers from those of the Rio del Norte, and traverses Coahuila and Texas to the low grounds on the Gulf of Mexico The valley of the Mississippi thus stretches over twenty degrees of latitude, exclusive of Cape Florida, and about thirty degrees of longitude.

No other valley on the globe, with the exception of that which is drained by the river Amazon, can be compared in .extent with that of the'Mississippi; and it probably surpasses all others in the richness and variety of its soil, and in its general adaptation to the support and comfort of civilized men. In extent it resembles a' continent; and in beauty and fertility it is the most perfect garden of nature. It is, however, unnecessary to enter into a particular account of it as a whole, the individual states into which it is divided being all described separately. The history of its settlement, although interesting, would stretch this article to an unreasonable length. It is given generally in that on America, to which - the reader is referred; and also more particularly under the heads of the various states embraced within the limits of the great valley.

Mississippi River. —This river is the largest in the United States, and also one of the largest in the world. Until the year 1832, when an expedition to ascertain its source was undertaken by order of Congress, it was unknown in our geography, that above Cass Lake the Mississippi separates into two forks, and that it derives its origin from Itasea Lake, which is situated 182 miles above Cass Lake. This is a beautiful sheet of water, seven or eight miles in extent, and lying amongst hills of diluvial formation, surmounted with pines. The outlet of Itasea Lake is about ten or twelve leet broad, but of little depth. The Mississippi is considered as originating at an altitude of 1500 feet above the Atlantic, in latitude 48° north, and longitude 96° west. Its length is about 3160 miles, and it falls into the Gulf of Mexicoat Balize, in latitude 29° 6', and longitude 89° 30'. Its general course in ascending above Cass Lake is north of west as far as Lae Travers; then south to its primary forks, which is continued, following up the east fork to Kubbakunna Lake, and for some distance farther. It then varies a short distance north and north-west, then south-west and south; and, finally, southwest to its main source in Ussawa Lake. The portage thence to Itasea Lake is west-south-west. Both these lakes appear to rise in springs on the high ground, and they are separated by about six miles of country. The Mississippi [7:15:301] traverses more degrees of latitude than any other river in America, and consequently the varieties of climate and vegetable productions which it passes through are very great. It occupies about a thousand miles of the distance between the arctic circle and the equator. Long as it is, however, the Mississippi has a tributary longer than itself, the Missouri. Like the Niger, its mouth was discovered by navigating down its current; but, unlike that stream, which so long held the geographical world in suspense, its sources have also been sought from its central parts. Its entire course has at length been ascertained; and we may now appeal with full certainty to the Balize and to Itasea Lake as its extreme points. At the latter it is a placid basin of transparent spring water; at the former it is as turbid as the earth which it holds in suspension can make it, and carries forests of floating trees on its turbulent bosom. Below the junction of its primary forks it expands at very unequal distances into eight sheets of clear water, each of which possesses features worthy of admiration. Four of these, Lac Travers, Cass Lake, Winnipeg, and Lake PepΓn, are lakes of respectable magnitude and striking scenery. The broadest parts of its channel lie in the central parts of the valley of the Mississippi. Its depth is great in all its lower parts, and increases as it flows on to the gulf, and its general descent and velocity are such as to appear very striking characteristics. We are not aware that it has been sounded in such a manner as to justify any estimate of its average depth. At Natchez, about 400 miles from its mouth, it has been stated to be from 100 to 150 feet deep, and this increases the lower we descend. From the Falls of St Anthony, to a few miles below the river Des Moines, in latitude 40°, the Mississippi is about half a mile broad. Below-the rapids which occur at this place its average breadth is about a mile; its current is about two miles an hour, and its average depth about four feet. Where it receives the Missouri, it is a mile and a half wide. The mouth of the Missouri is about half a mile wide, and when these are united, they constitute a stream about three quarters of a mile in breadth, very deep, and having a furious boiling current. The medium current is about four miles an hour, but it is often much greater. Its average width during the remainder of its course does not exceed a mile. In estimating its breadth, we refer to the space between the banks of its regular channel. At every flood it overspreads a vast tract of country, principally on its western side, which is from ten to fifty miles in breadth through the last five hundred miles of its course; and most of the water which overflows below Red River goes to the Gulf of Mexicowithout returning to the river. The country thus overflowed is generally without any habitable spots, but is covered with cypress, cotton-wood, or coarse grass, and its waters abound with alligators. The number of the tributaries of the first, second, and third class, is so great that it would form a labour of some research to determine it. The Missouri, the Ohio, the Red River, and the Arkansas, are of the noblest order. The first-named stream flows in a little below 39°, the Ohio between 37° and 36°, the Arkansas between 34°..and 33°, and the Red River a little below 31°. Below the latter river there are many large outlets, but no considerable streams join the Mississippi. After receiving the Missouri, the course of this great river is so serpentine as to present very few “reaches,” or places where it is so straight that an extent of three or four miles can be seen at one time. In many places the low alluvial tract upon its borders is thirty or forty miles in breadth. From the sources of the river to the mouth of the Missouri the annual flood ordinarily commences in March, and does not subside till the end of May; and its medium height is fifteen feet. Between the Missouri and the mouth of the Ohio the annual flood is twenty-five feet. For a great distance be low this point it is fifty feet; but it subsides above Natchez, and thence gradually to the mouth of the river. Between the Missouri and the Ohio the most shallow parts of the channel have six feet of water when it is lowest. Thence to the St Francis, between latitude 3.5° and 34°, there are several shoal places, where, when the water is low, pilots are perplexed to find a proper depth. Below that point there is no difficulty for vessels of any draught, except to find and preserve the right channel. There are no tides in the Mississippi, although a variation of a few inches in the height of the water is sometimes observed both during the day and night; but even at the very mouth of the river the water is at all times fresh, and no ebb and flow corresponding with those of the ocean are observed. Its navigation is at all times attended with some danger, on account of the raging power of the current, and the numerous trees which it dislodges on its banks and bears away in its course. Steam-boats, however, are admirably fitted to avoid these dangers; and the navigation above New Orleans is every year becoming more and more confined to them. Flat boats still bring down much produce, but almost no other vessels besides steam-boats are seen ascending the river. (κ. r. r.)