MADEIRA, an island situated off the western coast of Africa, about fifty-four miles in length by twenty-one in breadth. It is a country of rocks, consisting of a number of lofty mountains, on the declivities of which all the productions of the island are raised. The best account of the island is that by the late Mr Edward Bowdich, whose journey over the island we shall follow. The country at the back and sides of Funchal, the capital, presents the broken outline of a segment of a vast natural amphitheatre of basaltic peaks and mountains, rising to 3800 feet behind the Mount Church, which is the most striking edifice in this beautiful landscape, and is elevated 1900 feet above the sea, presenting the most picturesque breaks and vistas, intersected by ravines and torrents, and covered with undulating and rugged ridges and sheets of basalt, diverging from the more central heights, and descending boldly to the sea. The basalt is both columnar and granular; the former is, generally speaking, compact, of a broad conchoidal fracture, splitting in horizontal laminae, or at right angles to the prism, dark gray within or on the surface of a fresh fracture, which becomes covered with a superficial decomposing coat of brownish red, with age-inducing brittleness, and passing ultimately into yellowish white and dull brown; a moderately thin plate of the columnar basalt, when covered exteriorly with red powder, will snap between the fingers. The next place of importance is the Peak of Ariero, about three hours’ ride from Funchal. The latter part of the ascent is along the barren rocks of basalt and red tuffa, which form the highest outline of the view behind from Funchal, and are 3700 feet above the sea. The peak is 5446 feet above the level of the sea, and is covered with vegetation to the top. The Coural, or sheepfold, is an immense valley near the village of Comera de Lobos, completely surrounded with almost perpendicular hills, and in no part less than 1000 feet in height. Round a part of three cliffs is a narrow road, winding along the brink of the precipices, often cut out of the solid rock, across peaks and gaps which were formerly impassable. This road has been of great importance in connecting the [7:13:671]interior of the island with the sea coast, and useful for transporting the productions of the country to the capital.

The soil in every part is extremely fertile; the hills are covered with a luxuriant vegetation; and the finest flowers, sometimes of aquatic species, are found growing on the summits, being supplied with a moisture from the constant vicinity of the clouds. Trees and shrubs of the finest kinds are everywhere found in great abundance; and tropical plants which have strayed from the gardens soon become perfectly naturalized to the soil. The Portuguese formerly procured their principal supplies of sugar from this place; but not being able to compete with the West Indian planters, the inhabitants betook themselves to the culture of the vine, which has since become the chief product of the island. It is said that plants of the vine were conveyed from Crete to Madeira in 1421, and have since succeeded extremely well. There is considerable difference in the flavour and other qualities of the wines of Madeira; the best are produced on the south side of the island. The method of cultivation most generally followed is to trench the ground from three to seven and even nine feet deep, according to the nature of the soil, and lay a quantity of loose or stony earth at the bottom, to prevent the roots from reaching the clayey soil beneath, which would otherwise oppose their growth. The ground is watered three times if the summer has been very dry, the sluices being left open until the ground is pretty well saturated; the less the ground is watered the stronger the wine, but the quantity is diminished in proportion. The vines are found to bear fruit as high as 2700 feet, but no wine can be made from it. Wheat, barley, and rye are produced, but scarcely amount to one fifth of the quantity annually consumed. Wheat is sown in October and reaped in June; and the crop is followed by beans or sweet potatoes. The chestnut-tree has been introduced, and forms the principal timber of the island, and affords the chief food of the peasantry. Rice is cultivated, but more as ornamental grass than for any useful purpose. Pine and custard apples, and various other fruits, are grown in the open air in considerable quantities. In consequence of the land rising to a great elevation, this island presents great diversity of climate, though, upon the whole, it is mild and healthy. The rainy season comprehends the months of October, November, December, and January, although the dry weather during the first two months generally exceeds the rainy. The prevailing winds during this season are from the west and the south-west. In the dry season the prevailing winds are from the north-east, and they are not saturated with humidity like those which blow over the equinoctial seas. Although vegetation is so great, the pasture is scanty, and only capable of maintaining a small number of cows, which renders the productions of the dairy objects of luxury. A few oxen are used in the towns; but the mule is the most common beast of burden, and is best adapted for carrying goods along the narrow paths of the mountains. There are abundance of goats and hogs, which being allowed to run wild, acquire a resemblance to venison in taste; rabbits are very common in mountainous districts. Myriads of lizards inhabit the gardens and vineyards, and do considerable damage amongst the refined grapes. Bees abound in hills and valleys, and produce a honey of peculiar delicacy, from the numerous aromatic herbs on which they feed. The population is thought to be at present (1816) about 100,000, though some accounts represent it as much greater. From the extent of the island, and the rocky nature of the land, this census is very great. The inhabitants have evidently sprung from various sources. Amongst the richer inhabitants and merchants are found natives of almost every commercial country, but the greatest number are British. These hold little intercourse with the other inhabitants, but live in a state of luxury among themselves, and show great hospitality to strangers visiting the island. The peasants are generally of Portuguese descent, who, amidst the plenty which surrounds them, live in a state of great poverty. In appearance they are tall, well made, but meagre, with gloomy looks and long black hair; and they are very polite. Their dress consists of white linen trousers, made very wide, over which are drawn boots of buff leather; a coarse white shirt open at the neck, displaying their sun-burnt breasts; a blue cap and jacket, ornamented with silver buttons; and in winter they wear long cloaks. The females are condemned to severe labour: whilst the males are engaged in the vineyards, it is their duty to procure fuel, and often to carry loads of it to the city to dispose of for their subsistence, besides other households toils. They are generally of hard, yet not disagreeable features, with high cheek-bones, dark complexions, and rather large feet; their bodies, however, are well proportioned, and their eyes are lively, large, and black. The want of animal food is severely felt by the peasantry, the most hard-working labourer being constrained to live almost entirely upon bread, roots, and fruits. They extract from the husks and stalks of the grape, after they have passed through the wine-press, a kind of small beer called aqua pe i which, when fermented, acquires some degree of tartness, but will not keep.

The capital, Funchal, is a considerable town, situated in the centre of a large bay. It is built on the declivity of a hill, and the streets are kept clean, being watered by streams from the mountains. The bay is not very secure for anchorage, and is even dangerous during south winds. The landing is difficult, owing to the great surf which breaks upon the shore. It is strongly fortified towards the sea; but the defences on the land side have been greatly neglected. The wealthier inhabitants are generally British merchants, engaged in the wine trade. It is situated in long. 17. 6. W. and lat. 32. 37. N.

Adjacent to Madeira is the island of Porto Santo, about six miles long and two and a half broad. It is high and rocky, composed principally of sandstone, and a calcareous tuffa of a greenish-gray colour. The vine is cultivated in considerable quantities, and the soil yields good crops of wheat, Indian corn, barley, and beans. The population is estimated at 1400, and there are 300 militia. It possesses a good roadstead, but the landing place is bad. The Desertas are small uninhabited islands, which, with Madeira and Porto Santo, form the group called the Madeiras.

These islands were first settled by the Portuguese; but a tradition exists of their having been visited by an English gentleman, and lady to whom he was attached, who were left behind by accident, and both died there soon afterwards. It has belonged to the Portuguese ever since, and was considered as of such importance to the commerce of this country, that, during the late war, it was held in trust by Great Britain for her ally.

Its commerce consists almost entirely in the export of its wine. The principal quantity is sent to Great Britain, the East and West Indies, and America; but from frequent adulteration, and the preference of French wines, the trade is not now so great as it formerly was, the growth of the island not exceeding 20,000 pipes. The best is that known by the name of London particular, the second London market; and there is also a very rich sweet wine called Malmsey. The quantity of Madeira wines imported into Great Britain in 1833 was 301,057 gallons; of this, 161,042 gallons were retained for home consumption, and 209,194 exported. The price of these wines in London varies from L.18 to L.80 per pipe, according to the quality· There is also a considerable trade carried on in supplying with provisions ships which generally call at this place on the voyage to India.