MOROCCO.

Morocco, or Marocco, a large empire in the northwest part of Africa, is a remnant of the great African monarchies which owed their origin to the Saracens, and the most extensive and important of the Barbary States. It is bounded on the north and west by the Mediterranean and the Atlantic respectively, on the south its limits are [7:15:503] defined by the great desert of Sahara, and on the east it is separated from Algiers by the river Moulouia or Mulwia and the mountains of Trava. It is about 550 miles in length, lying between 29° and 36° of north latitude, and 2° and 10° of west longitude; its average breadth may be about 130 miles; and, according to Mr Washington, it contains a superficies of 150,000 square miles. This large territory is separated into four grand divisions, answering to the four kingdoms into which it was originally divided, namely, Fez or Fas, Morocco, Suz, and Tafilet, according to the following table:
[table]

But the whole of the country comprised in these divisions belongs rather nominally than really to the Emperor of Morocco; for the Arabs beyond the southern bank of the Suz avail themselves of their great distance from the seat of government, and other local advantages, to disregard the mandates of the emperor, so that they can scarcely be said to acknowledge his sovereignty.^[1. By far the best geographical description of Morocco, and the most correct map hitherto completed of that empire, will be found in the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London. They are by Lieutenant Washington of the navy; and his valuable communication was read in 1831. It does not appear to have been seen by some recent writers on geography, a circumstance which will account for some discrepancies between the present article and other accounts of the empire of Morocco, particularly in reference to the latitude and longitude of places. ] The grand physical feature of Morocco is the Atlas mountain chain, which traverses it first from east to west, then from north to south, and again from east to west, till it terminates at Cape Nun, upon the shores of the Atlantic. Offshoots or ramifications of this stupendous mountain spine intersect the country in various directions, and some of them attain a great elevation. Miltsin, the highest peak of Atlas visible from Morocco, a distance of seventy miles, and not two hundred, as has been uniformly asserted, is 11,400 feet above the level of the sea. This is below the limit of perpetual snow assigned by Humboldt in his Personal Narrative; yet only once in twenty years had these summits been seen entirely destitute of snow. At 6400 feet above the level of the sea, which was the highest point reached by Mr Washington in 1830, the mountain, he informs us, “was of a hard, red sandstone, the strata running in an east and west direction, and dipping 10° south.” Mr Washington continues: “We had thus only passed limestone,^[2. “This formation, it is believed, is of secondary limestone, and probably is generally diffused throughout the skirts of the Atlas, forming the basis of all the lower ranges of the mountains, to the height, perhaps, of three or four thousand feet. Of marble we saw nothing in our journey, except in some of the buildings in Morocco; and, after much inquiry, could not decide, from the ignorance or apathy of the Moors, whence it came, but it is believed from Italy. The great columns and pillars of white marble yet existing in this country are between Fez and Mekinez, and described as the ruins of a triumphal arch and temple; but of rosso-antico i and other ancient marbles, which have been historically almost proved to have come from Mauritania, we could hear nothing.” ] micaceous schist, and sandstone, that is, transition and secondary rocks; no traces of the primitive, except a boulder of granite, or rather of gneiss, in the valley below, and veins of foliated quartz in the schistose hills. Besides, the tendency of the formation is to table-land, ridges, and rounded summits, not to sharp or Alpine peaks; neither did we on our route through the country see any trace of volcanic agency, nor is there any thing in the outline of Atlas indicating the former existence of a crater.” At the height of 2400 feet the mountain consisted of a strata of lime running north-east and south-west, the dip about 70° to south-east, and which followed the undulation of the hills. There is a range of hills which presents a striking appearance, even as seen from Morocco. It is called the Arina range, and consists of a basis of lime; “strata east and west; dip 20° to the south-east; its north-western face precipitous, five hundred feet high, and deeply channelled with the water-courses, and having dark-red clay, possibly metallic, between the strata of lime.” At the foot of Atlas is a range of schistose hills, varying from five to eight hundred feet in height, and assuming every variety of shape, “truncated cones, pyramidal, pine apple, sugar loaf, &c.; one of which was covered with masses of gneiss, or coarse-grained granite, abounding with black mica; many of these blocks were several tons weight.” These quotations will serve to convey an idea of the more remarkable geological features of the country. The rivers are comparatively few in number, ιnd, except near the sea, are small in size. The most considerable are the Moulouia or Mulwia, the Seboo, the Oomerbegh, the Tensift, and the Suz. All these, except the first, fall into the Atlantic. The Oomerbegh (mother of herbage) has the longest course of any river in the empire. It rises in that part of the Atlas chain which separates the provinces of Fas and Tedla, and forms the boundary between Temsena and Ducaila. After a very winding course of above two hundred miles, it falls into the Atlantic at Azamor, where it is about one hundred and fifty yards wide. It has been conjectured that the Mulwia derives its origin from the opposite side of the same mountain, and that in this quarter are situated the highest summits of the Atlas range; but this has not yet been determined. “The river Tensift,” says Mr Washington, “springing from the northern hills, about forty miles eastward of the city, flows along at their base about four miles north of Morocco, and, joined by several streamlets from Atlas, reaches the Atlantic fifteen miles south of Saffy, nearly one hundred miles distant; the river is shallow, but rapid; the channel here (on the plain of Morocco) about three hundred yards wide, but fordable, except in the spring, in almost all places.” Several considerable streams, which derive their origin from widely-separated parts of the Atlas chain where it traverses Fas, unite and form the river Seboo. The principal head branches are the Wad Werga and Wad Leaen; the latter is joined by another stream larger than itself, but without a name. As it approaches the ocean, the Seboo winds in “the boldest sweeps imaginable, through a rich and varied plain.” It is “about four hundred yards wide; a bar of sand, a quarter of a mile from its outlet, extends almost across, and is nearly dry at low water spring tides; inside from three to four fathoms water [7:15:504]rise of tide seven or eight feet.” The town of Mehedia stands upon the southern bank of the river; and between it and the city of Fas, situated about eighty miles in the interior, but more than double that distance measured by the windings of the river, there is water communication, of which, however, no advantage is taken. About twenty miles to the south-west of the Seboo, the Bu Regreb falls into the Atlantic at Slaa or Salee, a place renowned in the annals of piracy. This river is formed by the junction of the Weroo and Bu Regreb. It is about four hundred yards broad at its mouth at full tide. These are the principal streams in Morocco. They have all several tributaries, and there are besides a considerable number of rivulets, which flow directly to the ocean. There are a few lakes, one of which, called Murja Ras ed Dowra, is twenty miles in length by one and a half in breadth.

Except during three months in summer, the climate is mild in temperature, pleasant and salubrious even to Europeans; whilst the country, generally speaking, is free from those marshy tracts which, in the tropical regions, are the pregnant source of the most malignant forms of disease. In the northern provinces the climate is nearly the same as that of Spain, having the autumnal and vernal rains peculiar to the south of Europe. Towards the Great Desert, however, the rains are less general and certain, and the heat in consequence is more oppressive. Indeed, to the south of the river Suz, little or no rain falls throughout the year. We may, however, observe generally, that, throughout the emperor’s dominions, the air has for the most part a congenial softness, and a degree of serenity, which render the climate peculiarly delightful. The seaport towns have the additional advantage of being frequently refreshed with sea-breezes.

The soil of Morocco varies in its nature and quality, yet in general it is in the highest degree productive, and, under proper cultivation, is capable of producing all the luxuries of the eastern and western hemispheres. Some parts of the sea coast, it is true, are sandy and barren; but the plains of the interior consist of a rich black loam of extraordinary fertility. The mountainous parts might also be rendered extremely productive, if the inhabitants did not almost entirely neglect agriculture. It is a rule which scarcely admits of an exception, that where nature does much for man, he does little for himself. Yet notwithstanding the slight cultivation which it receives, the soil is so fertile, that fruit and grain are produced, not only in quantities sufficient for the wants of the people, but also for exportation. Morocco formerly supplied a part of Spain with the necessaries of life, but of late years the exportation of corn has been totally prohibited. The principal grain is wheat. Barley is likewise abundant, and oats grow spontaneously. Indian corn, peas, beans, hemp, tobacco, and a great variety of esculent vegetables, are amongst the products of the soil. All the culture which it receives consists merely in burning the stubble before the autumnal rains commence, and then ploughing it about six inches deep. The olive in its best state, the citron, the orange, and the cotton tree, cover the hills; and experience has proved that sugar, rice, and indigo may be raised to much advantage, and at a very trifling expense of labour. Many varieties of the vine succeed in the northern provinces; and figs, dates, pomegranates, melons, almonds, peaches, apricos, pears, cherries, plums, and, in short, all the fruits to be found in the southern provinces of Spain and Portugal, are produced in abundance. The natives preserve their grain in “matamores,” or holes made in the earth, lined and covered with straw, to prevent the rain from soaking through; and in these receptacles grain may be kept fresh for five or six years. The forests of Morocco are full of oaks with sweet acorns, cork-trees, cedars, arbutuses, and gum-trees. Copper, tin, iron, antimony, and other metals. including silver and gold, are found in various parts; but as the Moors are ignorant of mining operations, they have proved of little value to the country.

In describing topographically the provinces of Morocco, we shall commence with the most northerly. For an account of Fez, however, it is only necessary to refer to the article under that head. The next place in importance is the sea-port of Tangier, situated on a steep acclivity rising at once from the beech, long. 5. 48. and lat. 35. 47. 54., thirty miles west-south-west of Gibraltar. It is surrounded by mouldering walls, with round and square towers at short distances, and three strong gates. Its defences toward the sea consist of two batteries, one above the other, on the south side of the sea-gate. High upon the wall, and directly in front of the landing-place, are about twelve guns; to the north, in a circular battery commanding the bay, which is about three miles wide, are twenty more guns, of all calibres, but in very bad condition; and, crowning the whole, to the north is an old and extensive castle, the residence of the governor. On the land side, walls and a ruined ditch form the only defences. The gates are shut at sunset, and a watch is set at night. With the exception of the main street, which crosses the town irregularly from the sea to the land-gate, the streets are narrow and crooked. The houses are low, with flat tops, except those of the European consuls, many of which are good. El Jaama Kibeer is large and rather handsome. Its tower, placed at the north-west angle, is lofty, and wrought in coloured tessellated work, as is also the pavement of the mosque, round which sweeps a colonnade of low pillars, with a fountain in the centre. There are two public markets well supplied with vegetables, fruits, poultry, game, and meat, which is good and cheap. The town is the residence of a pasha, whose territory extends about twenty-five miles to the southward. Outside the walls are some productive gardens belonging to the different consuls resident here, who, with their families, are numerous enough to form a very agreeable society. The anchorage in the bay is very tolerable, excepting in strong north-west winds. Were the mole rebuilt, the remains of which are still visible under water, the landing on the beach would be always secure. The ruins of Old Tangier, supposed to be the ,Tingis of the ancients, and a Roman bridge, are still standing at the southern part of the bay. Four small batteries, of about six guns each, defend the sand-hills around the shores. This town was long a subject of eager contention between the Moors and Portuguese; but the latter obtained possession of it in 1471, and kept it for nearly two centuries, when it passed into the hands of the English as pan of the marriage portion of the queen of Charles II. It was wisely abandoned by Britain about twenty years afterwards. The population of Tangier is from seven to eight thousand, including fifteen hundred Jews, who are the chief artisans.

Thirty miles south-east of Tangier is Tetuan, pleasantly situated near the opening of the straits into the Mediterranean, in long. 5. 24. lat. 35. 36. It is built upon a rising ground between two ranges of high mountains, one of them forming a part of the lesser Atlas. The town is of considerable extent, and has defences nearly of the same description as those of Tangier. The streets are narrow and filthy; the houses are two stories in height, but they have a mean appearance from the streets, which in many instances are nearly arched over by them. The El Kaisseria, or fair, for the disposal of goods, is filled with shops, which are well supplied with almost every variety of goods, both of European and African manufacture. The latter are brought by means of the annual caravans from Fez, and the former by vessels from Spain and from Gibraltar. They have, besides, many manufactures of their own, so that Tetuan may be ranked next to Fez in commercial importance. The mosques are large and numerous. The port is situât-ed[7:15:505] on a river about two miles from the sea, and is named Marteen; but only small craft can reach it, as the stream is nearly choked up with sand. The entrance is defended by a high square tower, on which are mounted twelve pieces of ordnance. The population of Tetuan was formerly estimated at 20,000, but it is supposed to be now considerably below that number.

Nearly midway between Tetuan and Tangier is Ceuta, formerly the capital of Hispania Transfretana, and occupied by the Moors. It was afterwards taken by the Arabs, and again in 1415 reduced by the Portuguese, from whom it passed into the hands of the Spaniards, in whose possession it now remains. Being a commanding position, it acquired great value in the eyes of the maritime states, as affording the means of checking the Barbary pirates; and to the Spaniards, in particular, its importance has not been diminished by the loss of Gibraltar. Various efforts have been made by the sovereigns of Morocco to recover it; butas it is almost impregnable on the land side, a military force, without the aid of a fleet, must for ever prove ineffectual. It is situated in long. 5. 17. 25. lat. 35. 54. 10. Between this place and Tangier, which is distant about a day’s journey, the whole coast is rugged, and interspersed with projecting cliffs. About twenty miles to the west of Cape Spartel, and five miles west from Tangier, stands the town of Arzilla, in long. 6. 0. and lat. 35. 29. 30. It is a walled square of about a quarter of a mile, situated on the open beach. The walls, which were built by the Portuguese, have a few guns mounted on them on the side facing the sea. The population may be about 1000. The next place of any consequence on the coast is El Araïsh, which is situated on an abrupt declivity of sandstone, upon the southern bank of the river El Kos, at its outlet into the Atlantic, in long. 6. 9. and lat. 12. 50. The town is walled, and strongly defended, on the land side by a ditch and a citadel, and towards the sea by a battery of thirteen guns and a venerable castle, with concave flanks and orillons. El Araïsh is a picturesque ruin. Moslemin superstructures are reared upon the foundations of Christian temples; the principal mosque was once a Roman Catholic church. Here was formerly the residence of European consuls, and their deserted houses still line the Marina, commanding a fine view of the port and of the Atlantic. Supplies are abundant, and there is some little commerce in charcoal and other articles; but the town is fast falling to decay. The population may amount to about 4000, including Jews. The river El Kos, signifying a bow, and so named from its windings, may be traced through a beautiful valley far away to the eastward. Its banks are fertile, and enriched by many gardens; which fully justifies the propriety of bestowing its present name on the town, El Araïsh, or the flower gardens. From an inscription over the walls on the sea-gate, it appears that this place was taken from the Moors, and fortified, by the Spaniards, in 1610.

The route of Mr Washington from Tangier to the capital of Morocco passed through all the towns of importance in die empire with the exception of Fez and Mogadore, as well as some of the most fruitful and populous parts of the country. Leaving Tangier, the road leads in a south direction “over a sandy soil, through the productive gardens that surround the town; then through an undulating country, over rounded schistose hills, about 300 feet high; mica slate, with veins of foliated quartz, occurring rarely; direction north-west and south-east; dip of strata 75° to south-west, and covered with scanty herbage; passing occasionally an Arab village of a few hovels, fenced by a hedge of aloes and prickly pear, or Indian fig; here and there a patch of Guinea corn; otherwise no signs of cultivation.” The road then proceeds ten miles south by west over a hill called Dahr Acclaou, well wooded with cork, wild olive, droo, myrtle, heath, broom, palmetto, and other trees and shrubs. It then winds ten miles in a southerly direction through a valley about eight miles wide, abounding in springs, and having a soil of light clay, but little cultivated. Proceeding southwards, Mr Washington passed several tracts of rich alluvial soil, woods of fine cork trees, and numerous Arab villages, the country becoming more populous, and presenting traces of higher cultivation. The Arabs possessed herds of cattle, horses, mules, and flocks of sheep. The first place of any importance is the town of Al Ksar, situated in a flat tract of rich, partially wooded meadow-land, through which meanders, in a west-northwest direction, the river El Kos, a rapid but shallow stream, and about an hundred yards wide in November. The plain to the south-east is bounded by beautiful mountain scenery; and conspicuous, by its singular conical form, arises the peak of Sarsar, at the foot of which, said to be inhabited by Shereefs, is the town of Wazen.

Al Ksar, situated about half a mile from the river on its northern bank, in long. 5. 52. lat. 34. 57. 10., is surrounded by orchards and gardens of orange, pomegranate, and palm, in great luxuriance. It was built by Jacob, son of Almansor, about the end of the twelfth century, and is connected in history with the wars of Granada. The town is encompassed by old ruinous walls about a mile and a half in circumference, and having loopholes, battlements, and small square towers fifty paces apart. The streets are narrow, and at intervals arched across. The houses are remarkable for having ridged roofs of tile. Mr Washington counted fourteen mosques, many of which were lighted up and spacious; and the bazaar contained a few mean shops, but no business was doing, markets and inns being deserted and lifeless. The population amounts to about 8000, of which 500 may be Jews; but doubtless it had once been much more populous.

The course now lay through a succession of valleys and over low ranges of hills to the great plain of Mamora, over which herds of cattle range. As the travellers entered the grazing country, Arab villages changed into douars, or circular encampments of from twenty to thirty tents. Approaching the Atlantic by a south-westerly course, Mr Washington reached the large lake called Murja Ras el Dowra, which extends parallel with the coast nearly twenty miles. It contains several islands, with saints’ tombs, insulated spots being here, as well as elsewhere, sacred to holy purposes. The lake was covered with wild fowl of every description, and fine eels are obtained from its waters. The surrounding margin exhibits little or no trace of cultivation; but the soil, although light and sandy, is productive of various annual plants, and on the western shore is a forest. The Arabs have here a great number of douars and coubbas. The country now became hilly, and the soil gravelly and sandy, but producing colocynth and coarse herbage. Mr Washington next crossed the Wad Seboo, and entered the town of Mehedia, which is situated on a height of about ten feet, on the southern bank of the river, and about ten miles from the sea, in long. 6. 36. and lat. 34. 18. When in possession of the Portuguese it was a place of some consequence, as the ruins of handsome fountains, arches, churches, and fortifications attest. It had a double wall, and was otherwise well fortified; but at present eight mounted guns constitute its sole defence. The town now contains only 300 or 400 inhabitants, chiefly fishermen, who subsist by the sale of shebbel, a fish resembling salmon, which is here caught in great abundance. Between this place and Salee, about sixteen miles to the south-south-west, is the extensive forest of Mamora, said to cover eight miles of country. It is chiefly inhabited by lions and wild bears. Passing under an ancient aqueduct extending a mile in length, having arches thirty feet high, eight feet wide, and four feet thick, Mr Washington entered the town of Salee.
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Slaa, or Salee, once the terror of the seas, and renowned for those rovers whose daring exploits spread terror along the shores even of Christendom, and whose city and port were a constant scene of riot, bustle, and activity, is now ruined, silent, and desolate. The present town, built on a sandy point extending to the sea, and forming the northeastern bank of the river, is about half a mile in length by a quarter of a mile in breadth. It is surrounded by walls thirty feet in height, having square towers at every fifty paces. The defences are a long battery of twenty guns facing the sea, a round fort at the entrance of the river, and a gun or two on the gates. The mosques, arches, and fountains in the city appear to be of high antiquity, and show traces of beautiful sculpture; but the streets are narrow, and the houses, like those of all Moorish towns, are sombre. The population is about ten thousand, of whom five hundred may be Jews, who apparently have little or no occupation. The river Bu Regreb is here about five hundred yards broad when full. The bar, about one eighth of a mile from the entrance, runs almost across in a west-south-westerly direction, with three or four feet on it at low water,'but leaving a channel at each end. The Moors use the eastern, where there is a rise of nine or ten feet of tide; and inside the harbour is quite sheltered, with water sufficient for a frigate. The imperial dock-yard is here, and ship-building is carried on to a small extent. The presence of several ferry-boats, some small traders, and a few fishing boats, give to this river an animated appearance quite uncommon amongst the Moors.

The town of Rabatt stands on the south-western side of the Bu Regreb, fifty or sixty feet above its level, upon banks of crumbling sand-stone. With its minarets, palm-trees, ruined walls, old mosques, and, crowning the whole, its venerable kassbah i or citadel, with its battlements all grouped in the most picturesque manner, it has an imposing appearance from the opposite shore. It extends three quarters of a mile in length by about one third of a mile in breadth, and is defended towards the sea and the river by three batteries and the citadel, and on the land side by a strong wall thirty feet in height, with square towers and angles of masonry. The main street of Rabatt, which runs parallel to the river, contains the principal shops, which are not very attractive, and the markets, which are abundantly supplied with excellent fruits and vegetables. The orange orchards, vineyards, and cotton plantations, are extensive. The most conspicuous object is the ruined mosque, and lofty tower, called by the Moors Sma Hassan, which stands two hundred and twenty feet above the level of the river. Mr Washington counted ten mosques, besides the mausoleum of a sultan, and that of the hero of Moorish Africa, the great Almansor. The Moorish population may amount to eighteen thousand, and the Jewish to about three thousand. The Jews are the chief artisans, and they have a part of the town allotted to them, called Millah, which is exceedingly filthy. Rabatt is situated in lat. 34. 2. 30. N., and long. 6. 46. W. One mile south-east of the town are the ruins of the Roman or Carthagenian town called Shella, formerly a place of note, and, according to D’Anville, the limit of the Roman station on this coast. Several ancient but ruined towns and villages were passed by Mr Washington, amongst which were Tomana, distant seven miles from Rabatt and three from the coast; El Mansoria, a square of one hundred and fifty paces, enclosing an Arab village, in lat. 33. 46. 10. N., and long. 7. 20. W.; Fidallah, situated six miles from El Mansoria, on a fine corn plain, at three quarters of a mile from the sea, and employed as a magazine for grain before Mogadore was built; and, lastly, Dar el Beida, a small walled town about half a mile square, which stands on a point projecting into the sea, and forming a bay three quarters of a mile deep. The roadstead is well sheltered from westerly winds, and protected by a few piecçs of cannon. The town was built for the exportation of corn, and was long in possession of the Portuguese. It is walled in, has three mosques, several houses built in the European style, and a population of about seven hundred, including Jews.

Between this place and Azamor, thirty-three miles distant, the country presents a rich and varied appearance, and the signs of cultivation become more conspicuous. There are numerous gardens, a forest of a beautiful evergreen tree called droo, resembling the arbutus in blossom, and bearing a brown berry which yields a coarse species of oil. Mr Washington saw many ploughs at work; large plantations of henna, herds of cattle, flocks of sheep and goats, and a great number of Arab encampments.

On the south-western bank of the river Oom-erbegh, one mile and a half from its outlet, stands the town of Azamor, in lat. 33. 17. 37. N., and long. 8. 15. W. It is surrounded by a wall about a mile and a half in circumference, but in ruins. The streets are narrow and filthy, and the town is dull and lifeless, maritime trade being interrupted by a bar of sand across the mouth of the river. The population may be about three thousand, including Jews. The surrounding country is open and destitute of wood, but well cultivated, and laid out in plantations of henna, of which three crops a year can be produced by irrigation. At a few miles distance from Azamor is the town of Mazagau, situated on a peninsular point projecting north about one mile, and forming with another point a sandy bay about a mile and a half in depth, which affords a good roadstead for small vessels. The town is well built, and respectably defended towards the sea by several redoubts. It enjoys some little commerce, has excellent water, and is well supplied with provisions. The population amounts to about two thousand, including Israelites. It is situated in long. 8. 21. W. and lat. 33. 15. N.

The course of Mr Washington now lay through the interior of the province of Ducaila, celebrated for its breed of horses, and its woollen manufactures of sulhams, haicks, carpets, and the like. The soil of the plain is a light loam, covered with stones, flint, and the like. It is well cultivated, and laid out in gardens and Indian corn fields. With the exception of a few scattered palm-trees, there is no wood; but the Arabs encamp here in great numbers, as herds of cattle and flocks of sheep find plenty of pasture, and are supplied with water from several springs and wells. The plain is of vast extent, and presents many varieties of vegetation; palmetto and colocynth occurring in swampy spots, fine grass occasionally, patches of Guinea corn, gardens, and so on. Mr Washington passed a large market on the great plain, where camels, horses, mules, asses, rude implements of husbandry, coarse woollen manufactures, corn, vegetables, fruit, dates, almonds, henna, and other articles, were exposed for sale. Ducaila may be described as a succession of plains, the largest being that on which the imperial city stands. The plain of Morocco extends in an east and west direction, between a low range of schistose hills to the north, and the lofty Atlas to the south; it is about twenty-five miles wide, and apparently a dead flat to the foot of the mountains. It lies about fifteen hundred feet above the level of the ocean, and, as far as the eye reaches east or west, appears to have no limit. This vast level plain, therefore, may stretch from the shores of the Atlantic on the west, to the foot of the Atlas on the east, a distance of about two hundred miles. This tract of country, however, does not all go by the name of Morocco, portions of it to the east and west being distinguished by other appellations. The soil is a light sandy loam, interspersed with numerous rounded stones of crystallized quartz, agates, porphyry, a green stone, carnelians, and other minerals. It is, generally speaking, covered with low brushwood of the thorny plant called sidra neback, or buckthorn. The banks of the streamlets are fringed with [7:15:507] oleanders of great beauty, whilst to the north a forest of palm trees and olives, and to the south the towering snowclad summits of the Atlas mountains, impart a picturesque grandeur to the scene.

Morocco, the capital of the empire, is situated on the northern side of this rich plain, the principal mosque standing in latitude 31. 37. 40. north, and longitude 7. 36. 0. west. It is surrounded by a strongly-built machicoated wall of tapia-work, thirty feet high. The foundations are of strong masonry; square towers are placed at intervals of fifty paces; there are eleven strong double gates; and the whole is six miles in circumference. This vast area, however, is far from being entirely occupied with buildings; it also comprehends large gardens· and open spaces from twenty to thirty paces in extent. Of the eleven gates of the city now open, that which conducts to the palace of Beb el Rom is by far the best specimen of architecture to be seen. It is a Moorish horse-shoe arch, richly sculptured in arabesque work, in imitation of shoe-nails, and the like; and however false in principle such a plan of an arch may be, it is said to have a pleasing effect to the eye. The streets of Morocco are narrow and irregular, seldom wider than lanes in European cities, and in many cases the lines of houses on either side are connected by bridges with gates, possibly intended for defence in case of attack. Several open spaces, which scarcely deserve the name of squares, are used as marketplaces, and for other purposes. The houses, which are generally stony, have flat roofs and terraces, the side towards the street being plain and white-washed. As an apology for windows, there are here and there narrow unglazed openings; but the interior disposition of the tenement is much in the Spanish style. Many of the doors are of cypress wood, and highly sculptured. The rooms, which are long and narrow, open into a court, sometimes surrounded with arcades, and having a fountain in the centre. With the exception of a mat and a cushion or two, they are destitute of furniture, which, with the want of windows and fires, conveys to a European any thing but an idea of comfort and convenience. On the outside of the southern main wall, and facing the Atlas, stands the palace of the sultan. It is encircled by a wall equal in strength to that which surrounds the city, and occupies an area fifteen hundred yards in length by six hundred in breadth. The whole is portioned into squares laid out in gardens, round which are detached pavilions, forming the imperial residence. The floors of the rooms are tessellated with variously coloured tiles, but otherwise they are quite plain, the furniture consisting only of a mat, a small carpet at one end, and some cushions. Within the city there are nineteen mosques, two emdrasas or colleges, and one hospital. El Koutubia, the principal mosque, stands alone in a deserted place of twenty or thirty acres, and is conspicuous above all by its lofty square tower rising to the height of two hundred and twenty feet without diminishing, thus producing a striking and singular effect. It is divided into seven stories, and its height is apparently about seven times its diameter. This tower resembles, and is said to be coeval with, the Sma Hassan at Rabatt, and the Giralda at Seville, built towards the close of the twelfth century, but reconstructed by Christians in the thirteenth century. Upon the summit of the tower of El Koutubia is a small turret, in the shape of a lanthorn, from which it derives the name of Sma el Fanar. The body of the mosque, although large, is an irregular building, and insignificant when contrasted with the lofty tower by which it is surmounted. Next in height, and coeval in erection, although modernized and well painted, is the mosque of Beni Yussuf. It has a college of talebs, that is, seekers or students, attached to it; and a saint’s tomb stands opposite its southern door, formed of three arches, and surmounted by a cupola, delicately wrought with rich Saracenic tracery. El Moazin, said to be the most ancient sacred edifice, is very large, and has several courts opening into each other. The Moorish horse-shoe arches intersect each other in various directions, and have a very rich effect. Attached to this mosque are gates, said to have been carried away in triumph from Seville by the great Almansor, as our Henry VIII. did those of Boulogne. The patron saint of the city is called Bel Abbas. This mosque is composed of a square saloon, covered with an octangular cupola, carved and painted with arabesques, and on the outside covered with varnished and coloured tiles. The sepulchre of the saint is richly ornamented, and on one side of it is placed the alms-chest. Adjoining the mosque are various court-yards, with arcades and rooms to lodge poor, old, maimed, and invalid people. The hospital is capable of containing fifteen hundred patients; and this place is also a sanctuary or house of refuge for those who are persecuted by despotism. Here they find a never-violated asylum, and can negociate till pardon is obtained. The chief of this establishment bears the title of El Emkaddem, or the Elder, and is venerated as a saint. The college and mosque called Emdrasa del Emshia stands near the south wall of the city. Here are the sepulchres of the sultans of the Moluc Saidia dynasty, once adorned with statues and busts, which a bigoted Moslemin emperor caused to be effaced. The other mosques it would be superfluous to describe.

The Great Bazaar, called El Kaisseria, is a long range of shops, or rather stalls, protected from the weather, and divided into compartments. The articles which Mr Washington saw exposed for sale were, silk scarfs, shawls, and handkerchiefs, from Fez; sulhams, haicks, gellabias, and carpets, from Ducaila; cloth, linen, hardware, tea, and sugar, from London; almonds, raisins, henna, and al kohol, from Suse; very fine corn, caravances, beans, and the like, from Shragna; very luscious dates from Tafilet; and abundance of boots, slippers, saddles, coarse pottery, mats, cord, &c. of domestic manufacture, together with embroidery in gold and silver, in which they particularly excel. There are two or three markets, the principal of which is called Sok el Khamise. It is held near the north gate of the city, on a Thursday, and is well supplied with home manufactures. There is another for the sale of horses, camels, mules, horned cattle, sheep, and other animals. The city is supplied with water by fountains, some of which exhibit traces of delicate sculpture. There are several tan-yards, one of which was said to employ fifteen hundred persons.

The Miilah, or Jewish Quarter, which is situated at the south extremity of the city, is a walled enclosure, of about a mile and a half in circumference. It is populous, but, as usual, filthy in the extreme. All the Jews pay a capitation tax to the sultan, and are treated with the greatest contempt. Mr Washington was offered for sale, by the scheikh of the Jews and a rabbi, the only copy of the New Testament in Hebrew and Spanish, the last relic of the Spanish hospicio which once existed within the walls of the imperial city. Mahommedanism, in all its withering influence, reigns undisturbed. The Jews exercise several arts and professions, being the only goldsmiths, tinmen, and tailors, in Morocco. The Moors are the shoemakers, carpenters, masons, smiths, and weavers of haicks. With regard to the number of inhabitants in this city, travellers are much at variance. Jackson, with his usual liberality, assigns it 270,000; whilst Ali Bey (Don Juan Badia) in 1804 fixed the population at 30,000, a number doubted by other individuals. This extraordinary disagreement must be accounted for from the plague and other terrible visitations occasionally sweeping off thousands of inhabitants in a very short time. Mr Washington says that [7:15:508] the population cannot exceed one hundred thousand, and is perhaps not above eighty thousand, including five thousand Jews. As the women rarely show themselves in the streets, it is difficult to estimate the number with any degree of exactness. The city, however, exhibits unequivocal tokens of having once had a far greater population. The dreadful plague, and more dreadful famine, which visited this country a few years since, committed fearful ravages. Not half the space within the gates is now inhabited; ruined walls and tenantless houses meet one at every turn; nothing flourishes but vegetation, which, even in the months of December and January, is rife and luxuriant, its springing freshness forming a striking contrast to the mouldering walls around.

The remains of numerous subterranean aqueducts surround the town. Some of these are ten or twelve feet in depth, and stretch across the plain to the foot of the Atlas. They are chiefly in ruins, and consequently out of use. This is the strongest evidence which can be produced in support of the fact, that the population of this country was far greater formerly than it is at present; and also that the arts were then more cultivated than they are now. A want of water is never hinted at by any traveller who has visited the imperial city; so that the few aqueducts which remain entire being sufficient for the supply of the present inhabitants, we are naturally led to conclude that those which have now fallen into disuse once conveyed a sufficiency of this indispensable element to a more abundant population, as well as to the grounds laid out in gardens in the vicinity of the city. Cemeteries also extend beyond the walls, both north and south; and there is one to the east of very considerable dimensions. This city was formerly surrounded with gardens and plantations extending to a great distance, but they have now for the most part disappeared. A few, however, still remain, and the sultan has three of about fifteen acres in extent within the city, and two of about twenty acres each, two miles distant from the walls. Every variety of fruit-tree enriches these gardens, olive, orange, pomegranate, citron, mulberry, walnut, peach, apple, pear, vine, fig, date, aprico, and the like; whilst trees of beautiful texture or foliage, the cedar, poplar, accacia, the solemn cypress, and the stately palm, together with a profusion of flowers and flowering shrubs, form a picturesque scene where the unchecked luxuriance and beautiful wildness of nature add a charm to the studied elegancies of the more regular ornaments of art. The grounds are well supplied with water by means of the conduits already mentioned.

The city of Morocco was built about the middle of the eleventh century, by Yousef Abu Tashfin, and at first obtained the name of Marakash. In the following century it reached its highest degree of prosperity; but there is little in its history except what belongs to the country generally, and as such will afterwards be given.

A few towns of Morocco, not yet mentioned, require some notice, and amongst these Mequinez has claims to precedence, as being the first city in the empire after Morocco and Fez. It is situated in a beautiful valley about sixty miles inland from Sallee, in lat. 33. 58. 30. E., and long. 5. 30. 0. N. It owes its importance to the policy of Sultan Muley Ismael, who, after conquering the various small kingdoms which now constitute the empire, for the purpose of strengthening the northern division, erected a walled town capable of containing a large garrison. There was formerly a Spanish hospitium here, as well as at Morocco; but it has long been deserted by the monks. At the south end of the city stands the palace, which forms an immense quadrangle enclosing a number of gardens well watered by streams from the adjacent country. In the centre of this enclosure is the harem, which again surrounds a small piece of ground planted with trees, and in vested by a gallery supported on massive columns. This royal residence (the sultan occasionally inhabits it) is rendered more spacious by being constructed entirely upon the ground floor. The rooms, as usual, are narrow, but long and high; and the walls are inlaid with glazed tiles of bright colours. Many of the Jews here are affluent; and the inhabitants are described as more courteous and hospitable than those belonging to any other part of the empire. The population is estimated by Mr Jackson at 110,000 souls, but this is very probably an exaggeration. Ali Bey states, that the surrounding country, which, at a distance, appears to be a level plain, is in reality composed of a labyrinth of round hills, between which several small streams wind in innumerable sinuosities. The soil is sandy, with little clay, and produces nothing but palms and olives.

Mr Washington, in his return from the imperial city, passed some interesting ruins. From the banks of the Oom-erbegh to the sea-coast at Tidallah, a distance of seventy miles, the country consists of a series of plains, at first gravelly and desert-like, but latterly of a fine rich soil, though little cultivated, and but thinly peopled. At twenty miles north of the Oom-erbegh, he stopped at a place called Kaisar, and both name and tradition agree in pointing out this spot as of high antiquity. Our traveller traced the foundation of a building, the north side of which was two hundred and fifty paces long, with towers at the corners, and walls of unhewn limestone five feet thick, but level with the ground. Other foundations of great extent were also visible, with a well and conduits leading to a spring; and the plain seemed admirably adapted for com. These circumstances, together with the existence of several tumuli at some distance, have led travellers to conclude that this has been a Mauritanian or Roman station. Twelve miles to the north of this spot, the peasants have a tradition, that here a city, called Caria, had sunk into the ground; that many substantially-built wells were in the neighbourhood; that coins had been found (which they described as of brass'), of the size of a Spanish dollar, and with an inscription of straight sticks and dots. Can this be other than the Roman denarius.

It remains for us shortly to describe the most southerly part of the empire, the province or kingdom of Suz or Suse. Agadeer or Agadir, better known under the Portuguese name of Santa Cruz, the last, port in proceeding southward in the emperor’s dominions, is situated in lat. 30. 35. N. Its bay, Mr Jackson says, is probably the best roadstead for shipping in the empire, being large, deep, and well defended on every side from all winds. The town stands upon an elevated position, and it is of great natural strength, besides being defended by walls and batteries. It was fortified in 1503 by Emanuel, king of Portugal, but taken by the Moors about thirty years afterwards; and continuing in the possession of these last, it might have attained to considerable importance, had not the refractory conduct of one of its governors provoked the emperor in 1773 to dismantle it, and transfer its commercial privileges to Mogadore. Forty-four miles eastward from Santa Cruz stands Tarudant, formerly the capital of a petty kingdom, and still the principal town in the province. It is situated on a fine but uncultivated plain about twenty miles south of the Atlas range. The walls, now half in ruins, enclose an area much larger than is occupied by the buildings, which are scattered about without any regularity. It still, however, possesses a noble palace, adorned with gardens containing the most delicious fruits; but, generally speaking, it has lost its trade, its population, and the consequence which once belonged to it as a provincial capital. Its reputation is now confined to the manufacture of a superior kind of saltpetre^ and the preparation of leather used for saddles. The other places included in the province of Suz are too small to require mention.
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Our knowledge of Tafilet, the eastern province or kingdom, is rather limited, although the communications with the country, the ancient Sugulmessa, are very important. It is a flat plain, and the portion of the soil which is not sheltered by trees is bare sand. Comparatively little corn is grown; and what is produced is sown by the bank of a swelling river, one of the largest in the empire. Its name implies the gullet, being conferred on it from its forcing its way through a narrow rocky pass during a part of its course. The melting of the Atlas snows causes an annual overflow, which, as it never rains here, is of as much importance to the country as the inundation of the Nile is to Egypt; and the natives accordingly celebrate the event by festivities and public rejoicings. The people of Tafilet inhabit fortified towns, consisting of about four hundred families each, and subsist chiefly on dates, for which their country is much celebrated, and the milk of their camels. Deer and ostriches are numerous. The cities of Morocco and Fez are both entrepôts of Tafilet. The capital city, which bears the same name, is, by the route of the caravans, twenty days’journey from Morocco, across Mount Atlas, and four hundred miles from the foot of the mountain. When trade has reached Tafilet, there is a further transport to the utmost point in the interior, where is the grand mart; and during this journey the most cruel privations are endured, chiefly arising from the want of water. Tafilet, besides its intercourse in that direction, sends tobacco and dates to Guinea in exchange for gold dust. Salt is the chief article which this city receives from ^Morocco, and the trade in it is in the hands of the sultan, a proof of its importance. These caravans are always commanded and attended by Moors of distinction; they take with them blankets of the manufacture of Fez, tobacco, and salt; their great return is in young slaves.

The inhabitants of the empire of Morocco may be divided into six classes; namely, Moors, Arabs, Shelluhs, Berebbers, Jews, and Negroes.

The Moors are the descendants of those who were expelled from Spain when the Moorish dynasty was extinguished in that country. They chiefly inhabit the towns, and may be considered as the aristocracy of the country; filling the high offices of government, and forming the military. Their language is the Mogreb, or occidental Arabic, intermingled with Spanish. For a more particular account of the Moors, see the article Barbary States.

The Arabs came originally from the desert, and, spreading themselves over the plains, there pitched their tents, commonly in a circle, hence called douars, and followed a pastoral life. When the soil is unproductive, the herbage scanty, or their tents become overrun with insects, so as to be no longer habitable, they emigrate to another place, a spring ora saint’s tomb generally influencing the selection. They are mostly under the middle size, and slightly formed, but are a hardy race, and capable of great endurance. They are hospitable, and may be trusted under a promise, but are otherwise much given to thieving. Their language is the Koreish, or Arabic of the Koran, but greatly corrupted.

The Berebbers and Shelluhs inhabit the mountain range of Atlas; the former occupying the north-eastern partas far as the province of Tedla, and the latter the space extending from thence to the south-west. They live chiefly in villages, consisting of houses built of stones and mud, with slated roofs; but occasionally they live in tents, and even in caves. Their principal occupation consists in hunting; but they also cultivate the ground, and rear many bees. From their mode of life, they are more robust and active than their neighbours of the plains. It has been conjectured that they are the aborigines of this country, and the direct descendants of Ham, having been driven to the mountains by the incursions of the Arabs and Moors. Their language bears no affinity to the Arabic, although the latter tongue is partially intermixed with it. It has long been a disputed point whether the Shelluh and Berebber are the same language. Jackson declares they are not; but later writers are of a different opinion, holding them to be dialects of the same parent stock.

The Jews in Morocco, as in most other countries, are a degraded race, despised and insulted by the Moors, whom they cheat in turn upon all occasions, and not only abused and struck by adults, but stoned by children for the slightest real or imaginary offence. They have no redress against these grievances; and they must also submit to undertake the most menial offices, such as those of servants, porters, and scavengers. They are likewise the chief mechanics, interpreters, and the like; and, besides being an exceedingly serviceable, are a very numerous body.

The Negroes are slaves, and a marketable commodity; but, from their high character for fidelity, they sometimes reach stations of great importance, and obtain their freedom. They constitute the sultan’s body guard, and the only standing army in Morocco.

The government of this country is absolute, unmitigated despotism. The sultan is the head of both church and state, which are inseparable. The laws are the edicts of the despot, who in the capital administers justice in person. In the provinces, his authority is delegated to the kalifa or pasha, who faithfully copies the imperial despotism; yet judgment is generally correct, and always prompt. The leading principle of legislation appears to be, Keep the people poor, and they will not rebel. The religion of Morocco is Mahommedanism, and in performing their religious duties, such as prescribed prayers, ablutions, and the like, the Moors are very attentive, even when travelling. They look upon Christians as having no religion at all; and, perhaps, from the specimens they often meet with, they are not far wrong in this opinion.

The revenue is derived from taxes paid in kind, one tenth of corn and one twentieth of cattle. There is a capitation tax on all Jews; and districts where crimes have been committed are subjected to fines. But the revenue is uncertain, and government is frequently compelled to levy it by force from some of the Arab tribes. The whole may amount to about one million sterling. The military are a species of militia, who are called out when required. They receive no pay, but are furnished with a horse; and when those of the provinces visit the capital, they receive a trifling present. The only standing army is the sultan’s body guard, which is about five thousand strong. All the soldiers carry long muskets, in the use of which they are very dexterous, firing at full gallop; and many of them are good marksmen. They are accustomed to sleep on the ground, without any covering, even in cold nights, which renders them hardy; but they are by no means formidable, as they have not an idea of the advantage to be derived from moving in regular bodies. If their first charge is indecisive, they are easily put to flight. They have no artillery for the field, its management under such circumstances being beyond their comprehension.

The education of the youth is confined to learning the Koran, which they commit to memory in the schools, with the management of a horse, and the use of fire-arms. Music is almost unknown in the country, a rude pipe, and still more barbarous drum, being their only instruments. These are made to sound without any pretensions to concord; but amongst the Shelluh mountaineers, whose songs are plaintive and pleasing, the charms of harmony are not unknown.

The usual food throughout the country is a dish called Kuseasu, which consists of mutton and fowls stewed with a few vegetables, and served up in a large earthenware.
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pan, filled to overflowing with granulated paste, forming a savoury and nutritious dish. This is placed on the ground, and around it half a dozen of persons sit down cross-legged. Chairs, tables, knives, forks, spoons, and plates, are superfluities unknown to the Moors. Coffee is not used, but tea is very generally so, and presented to visitors at all hours of the day. The Moors do not smoke tobacco, but snuff is taken in great quantities. They occasionally smoke the leaves of the hemp plant, which partakes of the soothing qualities of opium. A sort of confection of the seed of this plant, called keef has the same properties, and the use of this article is consequently much resorted to.

The trade of Morocco is not at all commensurate with its size, or the number of its inhabitants. The only manufacture is that of the leather which bears its name. The other exports consist of sweet and bitter almonds, gum-barbary, gum-soudan, gum-sandrac, bees’ wax, goat-skins, oil of olives, sheeps’ wool, ostrich-feathers, elephants’ teeth, pomegranates, raisins, worm-seed, rose-leaves, glue, fennel, walnuts, cummin seeds, lead ore, capers, carraway seeds, and similar productions. The articles of import which meet the readiest market are cloths of various fabrics, cambrics, muslins, blue linens, striped silk, velvets, damask, sugars and spices of all kinds, tea, gums of sundry descriptions, iron, wrought pewter, tin, white-lead, copper in sheets, mirrors, earthenware, paper, coral beeds, Brazil wood, and Mexican dollars. Besides the commercial transactions now mentioned, Morocco maintains a constant intercourse with the negro nations beyond the Sahara, whence are brought gold dust, ivory, and gums, more especially that valuable sort which is known by the name of gum Senegal, or Soudan. The principal inlet to European produce is the port of Mogadore, where accounts are kept. The circulating medium consists of nutkeels of ten ounces, the ounce being divided into four olankeels, and the olankeel into twenty-four fluce. From their proportion to the Spanish dollars, the olankeel may be valued at one penny, the ounce at four pence, and the nutkeel or ducat at three shillings and four pence. The weights and measures are as follow: The commercial pound is generally regulated by the weight of twenty Spanish dollars; so that one hundred pounds Mogadore weight, or the quintal, is equal to one hundred and nineteen pounds avoirdupois. The market pound for provisions is fifty per cent, heavier, or one pound twelve ounces and a half avoirdupois. The corn measures are for the most part similar to those of Spain, but there are considerable discrepancies. The cubit or canna, which is equal to twenty-one English inches, is the principal long measure. Various estimates have been given of the annual value of the exports and imports to and from Morocco, on the loosest authority.

Having completed the general description of this country, we shall now subjoin the following official returns, collected by his majesty’s consuls.

Statement of the Trade of the Empire of Morocco, showing the Number and Tonnage of Vessels employed (herein, with the Countries to which they belonged ; also, the Value of Imports and Exports, distinguishing the Amount of British and Foreign Goods Imported, and the Trade carried on in British and Foreign Vessels at each Port of the Εrnmre, in the Year 1835.
[table]
[7:15:511]

Statement of the Quantities of British and Colonial Merchandise Imported into the Empire of Morocco in the Year 1835.
[table]

Statement of the Quantities and Value of the Produce of the Empire of Morocco Exported from the Principal Ports of that Country to Great Britain, including her Dependencies, and to all other Countries, in the Year 1835.
[table]

The empire of Morocco is a remnant of the great African monarchies founded by the Saracens. The dynasty of the Aglabites, whose seat of empire was at first Kairwan, and that of the Edrisites, whose capital was Fez, were both subjugated by the Fatimites, who, finding employment for their arms in conquering Egypt, allowed their western dominions to be usurped by the variously-named Zuhites. These again were supplanted by the Moravedi or Mora-beth, who rose into military consequence about the middle of the eleventh century. Their chief, Abu Bekr Ben Omar Lamathouni, with an army of Marabouts, made himself master of the country, after which he assumed the title of Emir al Mumenim, or Prince of theFaithful. His successor,

Yussuf Abu Tashfin, pushed on his conquests, carrying his arms into Spain; and to this prince is ascribed the building of the city of Morocco, which at first obtained the name of Marakash. In the middle of the twelfth century this warlike people gave way before the Almohades, a sect or tribe of more austere character, and supposed to be Kabyles of the Berber nation. This tribe subjugated a considerable portion of Africa, but were not so fortunate in Spain as their predecessors. After the lapse of a century, intestine discords exposed the Mohadi to the successful attacks of several rival tribes, particularly the Merinites, or Beni Merini, who ultimately obtained possession of the kingdoms of Fez and Morocco. This tribe, however, did [7:15:512] not push its conquests far, and its power was shaken by hordes of unknown name and origin, who continued to issue from the eastern desert. It was ultimately overthrown by the Oatazi, an obscure race, who envied the greatness of the Beni Merini, and aspired to supreme dominion. Coincident with the triumph of the Oatazi was the invasion of the Portuguese, who established themselves along the coast, and began to disturb the country with a view to the propagation of Christianity. This emergency in their affairs induced the Oatazi to call to their aid the Shereefs settled at Tafilet. In fact, they appear to have been invited on account of their character as the supposed descendants of Mahommed, under the emergencies of the state, menaced with extraneous violence. Hassan Shereef had the merit, in the eyes of his country, of delivering it from the dangers of foreign thraldom; and he compensated himself by the possession of the sceptre, which he left to his family. He was completely successful in his enterprise; and having subjugated the zealots, who had shaken the empire, he placed on the throne that dynasty which continues to occupy it to the present day. With the regal power the descendants of Hassan unite the more sacred distinction which attaches to their pedigree as the progeny of Mahommed.

Mr Washington, the only traveller who can be fully relied on, estimates the actual population of Morocco at between five and six millions. (r. r. r.)