RIO GRANDE, a large river of Western Africa, which falls into the Atlantic a considerable distance to the south of the Gambia. It appears to be now ascertained, that the three great rivers of the western coast, the Senegal, the Gambia, and the Rio Grande, have all their sources very close to each other, in a range of mountains a short distance to the north-west of Teembo, in Foota Jallo. M. Mollien’s account represents the Gambia, called the Ba Diman, and the Rio Grande, called the Comba, as springing from the same basin, amid high mountains. The source of the latter stream is in latitude 10. 37. north, and longitude 11. 17. west. The correctness of this traveller’s statements is confirmed by M. Caillé, who crossed his route. M. Mol-lien, in describing the origin of the rivers, says, that on leaving the village called Toulon, he was led to the summit of one of the mountains which bear the appellation of Badet. Below him appeared two thickets, the one concealing the sources of the Rio Grande, and the other those of the Gambia. The valley in which they are situated forms a kind of funnel, having no other outlets than the two defiles by which the rivers issue. On quitting this basin these rivers pursue their course towards opposite points. The current of the Rio Grande is at first slow and turbid, but it soon clears; and beyond the valley its direction, hitherto north-north-east, changes to the west. After receiving the Tomine or Dongo, it assumes the appellation of Kaboo, a name which also distinguishes the country between the Rio Grande, the Gambia, and the Geba river. The territories bordering on the upper part of its course are inhabited by Foulahs, and the kingdom of Foota Jallo extends along the right bank. Further down, its shores are peopled by the Biafaras 1 Balantes, Papels, and other tribes, and occupied by the kingdoms of Ghinala and Biguba-Near its embouchure it divides into a number of branches, forming alluvial islands, which, with others farther out at sea, compose the Archipelago of the Bissagos. The whole length of its course may be about 500 miles. It falls into the Atlantic fifty leagues to the south of the Gambia.

Rio Grande do Norte, a province of Brazil, is bounded on the south by Paraiba, on the north and east by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the west by Seara. Situated between the parallels of 4. 10. and 5. 45. of south latitude, the climate is of course very hot. At Cape St Roque, which forms the angle of this province, in longitude 36. 15. west, latitude 5. 7. south, the coast of Brazil terminates towards the north-east; and the Atlantic Ocean, which has so long been its boundary on the east, begins to wash its northern shores. It presents about one hundred miles of sea-coast. The general features of the province may be laid down as displaying a tolerable fertility to the southward of Natal, the capital, and as presenting a barren aspect to the northward of it, except on the banks, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the Rio Grande, or Potengi, the great river of the province. This stream rises in a ridge in the western limits of Rio Grande, and traverses its whole extent in a direction from south-west to north-east. The bar of the Potengi is narrow, but sufficiently deep for vessels of moderate tonnage. The river is very safe within the bar; the water being deep and quite tranquil. The province is irrigated by other streams, on whose banks the most fertile land is to be found. The village and valley of Papari, lying to the north of the Rio Grande, are described as presenting a most inviting aspect. The whole of the valley is cultivated, and when every other part of the surrounding country is parched with drought, and the high sandy lands are rendered quite barren, this place retains its freshest verdure. Although at the distance of three or four leagues from the sea, the salt-water lake of Groahyras communicates with it, so that the inhabitants have the fish brought to their own doors. Between three and four leagues farther is the Indian village of St Joze, situated on a dry sandy soil. A [7:19:245]few leagues beyond this place the road passes over a succession of dismal sand-hills. These are perpetually changing their situations and forms; and the high winds raise the sand in clouds, which render the road dangerous when they prevail. The sand is white and very fine, so that horses sink up to the knees at every step; and it is so light as to prevent almost all vegetation.

Natal, the capital (so named because the church was consecrated on Christmas-day), sometimes called Cidade dos Reys 1 or City of the Kings, is situated on the right margin of the Rio Grande, about two miles above its mouth. So highly was the position of Natal at one time valued, that during the Dutch war its fortress was deemed the strongest place in Brazil. At present it contains some good streets, squares, and churches, a governor’s palace, a town-hall, prison, and other public buildings. The harbour of Natal is spacious, and a flourishing trade is carried on. The population amounts to about 19,000.

To the north of Natal lies the town of Estremoz, about ten miles to the north-west, and at the same distance from the sea. In the western part of the province are several towns, of which the most considerable is that formerly called Assu, but now dignified with the name of Villa Nova da Princesa. It is situated on the left bank of the river of the same name, otherwise called the Parinhas, twenty-five miles from its mouth. Its position is nearly in the centre of Rio Grande; and the road leading from Natal to it having been traversed by Mr Koster, a brief abstract of his description will serve to convey an idea of the character of the province in this quarter. The tract of country through which the road lies, is a plain traversed by a river remarkable for its serpentine evolutions. Here is a place called Lagoa Seca, or dry lake; a place which is laid under water by the rains, but which supplies the capital with farinha during the drought. Between eight and ten leagues from Natal is Pai Paulo, a place situated on the borders of the Sertam, a long barren plain of five days’ journey. This scene is desolate and dreary in the extreme. On approaching Assu, however, lands covered with wood make their appearance; and fazendas and other indications of human neighbourhood rise around. The town of Assu is situated upon the northern bank of the smaller branch of the river Assu, which here runs for a short distance in two channels. This place, chiefly built in the form of a square, contains several churches, and other public buildings. There are numerous salt-works in the vicinity, which bring some trade to the place, and large barks in the proper season ascend the river to the town. At the distance of about a league from Assu is the lake of Piato, three leagues in length by one in breadth, which is filled by the river in the rainy season, and is never quite dry. In summer its sides afford a rich soil for the cultivation of rice, maize, the cane, melons, and cotton. Between this place and the frontier of the province of Seara, a distance of four days’ journey, the country consists for the most part of plains, with trees thinly scattered, and patches of wood. Several salt-marshes intervene, and these, during the rainy season, form lakes. The Arraial of St Luzia stands on the left bank of the river Appody, about twenty miles from the sea. Large canoes advance up the river to this place, which carries on a trade in salt. From this situation downwards are found the famous salterns of Massoro, the salt of which is as white as snow. The Appody has a course of a hundred and thirty miles, running almost the whole way through a flat country, interspersed with lakes, which it fills by its floods. This river forms the boundary line between Rio Grande do Norte and Seara. The soil of many parts of this province is favourable to the growth of sugar-cane, and some trade is carried on in sugar, which, together with salt, seems to be the staple of commerce in this quarter of Brazil. The population of the whole province is not supposed to exceed 80,000 inhabitants.

Rio Grande do Sul, formerly the most southern province in the empire of Brazil, but, according to recent accounts, now an independent republic of South America. It declared its independence in 1836, and resolved on introducing a constitution similar to that of the United States of North America. In April and May 1838 two severe conflicts took place between the troops of the emperor of Brazil and the insurgents, in both of which the former were defeated with great slaughter. Whether this country may ultimately succeed in maintaining its position among the republican states of South America, appears very doubtful. Rio Grande do Sul is bounded on the north by St Catharina and St Paulo; on the west by the river Uruguay, which separates it from the republic of the same name; on the south by the river Plata; and on the east by the Atlantic Ocean. Itis upwards of five hundred miles in length by four hundred in breadth, lying between latitude 28° and 35° south, and enjoys a temperate and salubrious climate. This extensive country chiefly consists of large plains, covered with immense herds of cattle and other animals. Some mountain-ridges traverse it in various directions, but none of them is of any great height. Here several large rivers have their origin, of which the Uruguay, the Jacuhy or Rio Pardo, and the Camapuam, are the most important Its great extent of level and alluvial coast exhibits some lakes of vast dimensions. The Lagoa dos Patos is the largest lake in Brazil, being one hundred and fifty miles in length from northeast to south-west and about forty miles in breadth. It is said to derive its name from a species of fowl which frequents its waters in great numbers. This lake is the recipient of almost all the streams which irrigate the northern and eastern portions of the country. It is very shallow, and its water continues fresh as far as the island dos Marin-heiros, near the port of St Pedro. Although encumbered with sand-banks, and subject to violent squalls of wind, it may be navigated without much risk. The peninsula lying between the lake and the ocean is low and level, and almost in a direct line on the eastern side, but forms various points and bays on the opposite side. The western shore of the lake is bold but not rugged, and is cut by several rivers, of which the Camapuam and Jacuhy, already mentioned, are most deserving of notice. The sources of the former are in a chain of low hills called the great Cochilha, which traverses the western limits of the country. It flows with a rapid and disturbed current interrupted by continued cataracts for nearly a hundred miles, receiving fourteen streams from the south and fifteen from the north, and falls into the lake about the middle of its western side, by five different channels, formed by four small islands. The Jacuhy, sometimes called the Rio Pardo, which is one of its tributaries, is a river of still greater value. It rises in the province of St Paulo, and after traversing the southern declivity of the general ridge for a few leagues, it turns eastward, describing innumerable windings for a course of thirty leagues, during which it collects the water of a number of smaller rivers, many of them being navigable. It then suddenly bends towards the south, and after running fifteen miles in this direction, enters the western side of the lake about four leagues below its northern extremity. It is a fine, broad and deep river, with lofty and diversified banks, and is full of little islands. To the south-west of the Lagoa dos Patos lies another sheet of water, called Lake Mirim, or Mirin. It is ninety miles in length by about twenty in breadth, and discharges itself into the Lagoa dos Patos by means of a channel called the river of St Gonzales. Lake Mirim is very shallow, and in the rainy season it widely extends its borders. The Gonzales is fifty miles in length: it is wide and handsome, and navigable for small vessels, which by this channel pass into Lake Mirim, and thence by means of rivers penetrate into the fertile interior, and distribute their cargos to the large towns [7:19:246]on the coast. There are other large lakes running parallel with the shore, but these are the most important.

On the northern bank of the Jacuhy, twenty-five miles from its mouth, stands the town of Portalegre, the capital of tile country. It is situated on a declivity, and commands a fine view of the river and the surrounding country. The houses are well built, the streets well laid out, and altogether it is a very neat and flourishing place. The government-house and public offices are placed on a hill. It has several churches, schools, what appear to be the rudiments of a university, a dock-yard, and other public establishments and institutions. In 1812 Mr Luccock thus spoke of it: “As a capital, its influence is wide; as a seat of commerce, it commands a large tract of country, and many navigable rivers.” It has subsequently made very great advancement. Englishmen have long been established here; and not only commerce, but agriculture, has been much benefited by their exertions. One great bar to improvement is, that much of the interior is still in the hands of the native tribes, whose animosity to white people is of the bitterest description. Portalegre contains above 12,000 inhabitants.

Being situated at the head of the great lake, it has constant intercourse with St Pedro do Sul, which lies at the foot of it. Up to the year 1763 this town was the capital of the province, and was usually called Rio Grande, from its harbour, which forms the entrance to the Lagoa dos Patos, and is, with the same impropriety as the bay of Rio de Janeiro, termed a river. The town was begun a league to the south-west of where it now stands, in the situation called Estreito, near the head of the bay or harbour. It stood on a bank about twenty feet in height, and was surrounded with a parapet of sods, as a barrier against the encroaching sands. ^[1. Mr Luccock mentions some circumstances very interesting in a geological point of view; and as his remarks convey a correct idea of the nature of the coast in this quarter, we shall quote them. He informs us that by a careful examination of the coast, it will convincingly appear that a very considerable portion of it has been formed by sand driven up by the ocean. “The two lakes which form the chief features of this part of the country have probably been created by the rivers which flow into them repelling the sand accumulated at their mouths by the occasional impetuosity of their currents, until the bar was formed in the dead water produced by the stream and the ocean. Here the hank would gradually rise above the high-water mark, and compel the river to bend its course; and by constant acquisition would grow broader and longer, and at length form an estuary within it.” In this manner he thinks the Jacuhy, Camapuam, and other rivers, were compelled by accumulation of sand to take a southern course, and thus produced the great lake. In confirmation of this view, he states that the bar of the Rio Grande is still proceeding southward. ] Yet by a slow but sure progress they appear to have gained ground, so as almost to have overwhelmed the town, and occasioned its removal to the present site. It is now situated on a level plain, a little above high-water mark; but, like its predecessor, it suffers much from the accumulation of sand. Its public buildings comprise a cathedral, the plainness of which externally and internally does not prevent it from being a handsome edifice. It has several public buildings, and is defended by a fort. Its commercial importance appears to be considerable. Many towns along the coast mainly depend upon this part of the continent for their supply of food. Immense quantities of wheat, hides, tallow, dried beef, cheese, and other articles are shipped from this port, and commerce is rapidly increasing. We have no means of ascertaining the amount of its population; but it is certainly not less than that of the capital, for it was the great mart of Southern Brazil while the country formed an integrant part of the empire. Near this town is the fertile island of Marinheiros, which contains some of the highest land and the best cultivated spots in the neighbourhood.

This country, we have said, is chiefly distinguished for cattle-breeding. The proprietors of land are divided into two classess, viz. fazendeiros or farmers, and lavradores or husbandmen. The latter, who breed only what is necessary for their own consumption, possess generally about two square leagues of land; the former will farm from eight to ten leagues, but some of these fazendas are reported to extend to a hundred square leagues, or nearly 600,000 acres. To each three square leagues are allotted four or five thousand head of cattle, six men, and a hundred horses. The proportion of horses will appear a very large one; but it is to be kept in view that, in this pastoral country, they cost nothing in keeping, and even short journeys of half a mile are made on horseback. About one hundred cows are allowed for the supply of milk, butter, cheese, and veal, to a farm of the average size. Hogs, although abundant, are but little valued: sheep might be multiplied to any extent, in consequence of their producing generally two lambs at a birth, but do not appear to attract much attention. Droves of horses and mules are bred to a great extent; the latter are, however, found to be much more profitable than the former, a mule being double the value of a horse. Horses are trained for tile exercises of the field, in a manner peculiarly well adapted to fortify them against fear. They are much used in capturing cattle, which, as is the universal custom in South America, is effected by the lasso. Cattle form the grand staple of Rio Grande, and the beef, hides, and tallow which they yield are the chief articles of export. An extensive tract, famous for its fine cattle, is comprehended under the name of Charqueados, derived from the “charqued” beef, which is prepared in this district for exportation. When the cattle are killed and skinned, the flesh is taken off from the sides in one broad piece, something like a flitch of bacon; it is then slightly sprinkled with salt, and dried in the sun. In that state it forms the common food of the peasantry. Some idea of the immense quantity thus prepared may be formed from the fact, that in one year a single individual slaughtered 54,000 head of cattle, and charqued the flesh.

The history of this portion of South America presents little but a gloomy picture of Spanish aggression and Portuguese retaliation. Lying on the confines of Brazil, where the latter bordered on the possessions of Spain, it was convenient for hostile inroad on the part of the latter power and it was unfortunate for these colonies that the animosities of the mother countries in Europe were communicated across the Atlantic, and perpetually embroiled their settlements, so that the bloody and ever-losing game of war played between the powers was maintained in both hemispheres at once. Into details of mutual hostilities we shall not enter; it is sufficient to state that this country was finally incorporated with the empire of Brasil, and so continued, till its recent assertion of independence. The population of Rio Grande do Sul is estimated at 160,000. (r. r. r.)