ANDREWS, St, a city of Scotland, in the county of Fife, pleasantly situated in a spacious bay of the German Ocean, into which flow the river Eden, the small rivulet of Kinness, and several other streams. It was formerly a place of much greater extent and importance. At present it is only about a mile and a half in circuit, and consists of three leading streets, intersected by a few considerable lanes. The principal street is well built, and is straight and broad, and of late years its appearance has been much improved. The town contains many interesting memorials of antiquity. Of the splendid cathedral, which was founded by Bishop Arnold in 1159, and attained to its highest magnificence in 1318, part of the east and west ends, and of the south side, are all that now remain. The length of this edifice from east to west was 350 feet within the walls; that of the transept 180 feet. This whole pile of building, which it took 150 years to complete, was in June 1559 demolished in a single day by John Knox and his infuriated followers. About 40 yards to the south-east is the chapel of St Regulus, the tower of which is a lofty square prism, the side of the base being 20 feet, and the height 108. The chapel to the east of the tower, which was the principal one, remains; but of a small chapel to the west, which formerly existed, there is now no trace. The arches of the windows and doors are round, and the figure of some of them is more than half of the circle, which is an undoubted proof of their antiquity. The priory, which was founded by Robert, bishop of St Andrews, during the reign of Alexander I. in 1120, was of great extent, and richly endowed. The prior had precedence of all abbots and priors, and on festival days had a right to wear a mit re and all episcopal ornaments. The walls of the pre-cìnct[7:3:121] are all that now remain to mark the vast extent of this edifice. Part of the top of the great altar towards ʹ the east end of the cathedral was discovered between 30 and 40 years ago, in consequence of an excavation made in the hope of finding concealed treasure. At a much more recent period, the soil, which had for ages been permitted to accumulate, having been removed, part of the pavement was laid open, and several shafts of two rows of pillars parallel to each other, by which it is supposed that galleries in the inside of the walls had been supported. The other religious houses were, that of the Dominicans, founded in 1274 by Bishop Wishart; another of Observantines, founded by Bishop Kennedy, and finished by his successor Patrick Graham in 1478; and, according to some, the Carmelites had a fourth. Immediately above the harbour stood the collegiate church of Kirk-heugh, originally founded by Constantine III., who, retiring from the world, became here a Culdee. From its having been first built on a rock, it was styled Proepositura Sanctae Mariae de Rupe.

On the east side of the city are the remains of the castle, on a rock overlooking the sea. This fortress was founded about the year 1200, by Roger, one of the bishops of St Andrews, and was repaired towards the end of the 14th century by Bishop Trail, who died in it in 1401. He was buried near the high altar of the cathedral, with this singular epitaph:

Hic fuit ecclesiae directa columna, fenestra Lucida, thuribulum redolens, campana sonora.

The castle was the residence of Cardinal Beaton, who, after the cruel execution of the celebrated reformer George Wishart in front of it, was afraid of the fury of the people; and his knowledge of this, joined to his apprehension of an invasion from England, induced him to strengthen the fortifications, with a view of rendering the castle impregnable. In this fortress he was surprised and assassinated by Norman Lesley, aided by fifteen others. Early in the morning of May 29, 1546, they seized on the gate of the castle, which had been left open for the workmen who were finishing the fortifications; and having placed sentinels at the door of the cardinal’s apartment, they awakened his numerous domestics one by one, and, turning them out of the castle, without violence, tumult, or injury to any other person, inflicted on Beaton the death he justly merited. The conspirators were immediately besieged in this castle by the regent, earl of Arran; and although their strength consisted of only 150 men, they resisted his efforts for five months, owing more to the unskilfulness of the attack than the strength of the place, for in 1547 the castle was reduced and demolished, and its picturesque ruins serve as a land-mark to mariners. The entrance to the castle, and the window out of which it is said Cardinal Beaton leaned to witness the cruel martyrdom of George Wishart, are still pointed out.

The parish church is a spacious structure, 162 feet in length by 63 in breadth, and is large enough to accommodate 2500 persons. It contains a lofty monument of white marble, erected in honour of Archbishop Sharpe, who, in revenge for his oppressive conduct, was murdered by some of the exasperated reformers of that day. On this monument is a rude piece of sculpture representing the tragical scene of the murder. To the north is situated the college church, which belongs to the united college of St Salvator and St Leonard. It was founded in 1458 by Bishop Kennedy, and contains a beautiful tomb of its rounder, who died in 1466; which is a fine specimen of leftθ 0t ^ 1 * c architecture of that period. About the year 683, on opening this tomb, six highly ornamented silver maces Were discovered, which had been concealed there in times of trouble, three of which are still preserved in the university, and three were sent to the other universities of Scotland. On the top is represented our Saviour; around are angels with the instruments of his passion. With these are shown some silver arrows, with large silver plates affixed to them, on which are inscribed the arms and names of those who were victors in the annual competitions of archery, which were regularly held until within these few years. Golf is now the reigning game. That sport, and foot-ball, were formerly prohibited by an act of parliament passed in the reign of James II. in 1457, as interfering too much with the acquisition of dexterity in archery, an accomplishment in those days of much consequence to the safety of the state. The statute has been long obsolete, and the inhabitants, and the students who attend the university, have full permission to enjoy this elegant amusement.

The celebrated university of this city was founded in 1411 by Bishop Wardlaw. It consisted formerly of three colleges. 1. St Salvator’s was founded in 1458 by Bishop Kennedy. This was a handsome building, with a court or quadrangle, which is 230 feet long by 150 wide, and a gateway surmounted by a spire 156 feet high. On one side is the church; on another what was the library of St Salvator’s; the third contains apartments for students; the fourth is unfinished. The buildings connected with the college being in a state of great decay, a grant has been made by government for erecting a new structure. Part of this building will soon be finished, and the remainder, it is expected, will be immediately after commenced. When it is completed it will be in a high degree elegant and commodious. 2. St Leonard’s College was founded by Prior Hepburn in 1522. This is now united with the last, and the buildings sold, and converted into private houses. 3. New or St Mary’s College was established by Archbishop Hamilton in 1552; but the house was completed by Archbishop Beaton. This is said to have been the site of a celebrated school long before the establishment even of the university, where several eminent clergymen taught gratis the sciences and languages; but it was called the New College, because of its late erection into a divinity college by the archbishop. The buildings of this college have been substantially repaired, and with great taste.

The university is governed by a chancellor,—an office which it was originally intended should be permanently exercised by the archbishop of St Andrews. Subsequent to the Reformation, the chancellor has been elected by the two principals and the professors of both colleges.

The rector is the next great officer, to whose care are committed the privileges, discipline, and statutes of the university. The colleges have their principals, and professors of different sciences, who are indefatigable in their attention to the instruction and the morals of the students. The place possesses, in its pure and salubrious air, and in its extensive grounds for exercise, very great advantages for the education of youth. In St Salvator’s College are taught the languages, philosophy, and the sciences. St Mary’s, which stands in a different part of the town, is reserved exclusively for theology. The classes and discipline of the two colleges are quite distinct, each having its respective principal and professors. They have a common library, which is entitled to a copy of every work entered in Stationers Hall, and which now (1830) contains upwards of 40,000 volumes. An addition has been in the course of last season made to the library, which was much required, in consequence of the great increase of the number of books.

Seventy-five bursaries or endowments belong to the [7:3:122]university, and are conferred on the students. Of these, 58 belong to the United, and 17 to the New College. The number of students at St Andrews never exceeded 300 at any period. During the present year (1830) they amount to 190 at both colleges—149 at the United College, 41 at St Mary’s.

The trade of St Andrews was once very considerable. So late as the reign of Charles I. it had thirty or forty trading vessels, and carried on a considerable herring and white fishery, by means of busses, in deep water, which had for ages been a most profitable branch of commerce, and a source of wealth. During the troubles which followed the death of this monarch, this whole coast, and St Andrews in particular, became a scene of murder and rapine; and every town suffered in proportion to its magnitude and opulence. St Andrews was required to pay a contribution of L.1000, which the inhabitants, after being plundered, were not able to raise: a composition of L.500 was accepted, which was raised by a loan at interest, and has remained a burden upon the corporation, it is believed, ever since.

The harbour of St Andrews is artificial: it is guarded by piers, and is safe and commodious; but it is difficult of access, having a narrow entrance, and being exposed to the east winds, which raise a heavy sea on the coast. The shore of the bay is low; and, in the storms of winter, vessels are frequently driven on it and lost.

St Andrews had a manufactory of sail-cloth to some extent, but it is now discontinued. The game of golf being much practised here, there is a manufactory of golf balls, which, after supplying the home consumption, sends about 9000 annually to other parts. The shipping of the port consists of about eleven vessels, which are employed in the coasting trade. St Andrews is a royal borough, uniting with Cupar, Perth, Dundee, and Forfar, in returning a member to parliament.

According to early traditions, St Andrews owes its origin to a Greek monk, Regulus, who having been warned in a vision to visit Albion, was shipwrecked in the bay about the end of the fourth century. He was hospitably received, according to these ancient accounts, by the king, who presented him with his own palace, and built near it the church of St Regulus, the remains of which are still to be seen. At this time the place was styled Mucross, or the land of boars. All around was forest, and the lands bestowed on the saint were called Byrehid. The boars equalled in size the ancient Erymanthian; as a proof of which, two tusks, each sixteen inches long and four thick, were chained to the altar of St Andrew. The king changed the name to Kilrymont, and established here the first Christian priests of the country, called Culdees. The church was supreme in the kingdom of the Picts, Hungus having granted to God and St Andrew that it should be the head and mother of all the churches in his dominion. He also directed that the cross of St Andrew should become the badge of the country. In 818, after the conquest of the Picts, he removed the episcopal see to St Andrews, and the bishop was styled maximus Scotorum episcopus. In 1471 it was erected into an archbishopric by Sextus IV. at the intercession of James III. In 1606 the priory was suppressed; and in 1617 the power of election was transferred to eight bishops, the principal of St Leonard’s College, the archdeacon, the vicars of St Andrews, Leuchars, and Cupar. This see contained the greater part of the shire of Fife, with a part of the counties of Perth, Forfar, and Kincardine, and a great number of parishes, churches, and chapels in other dioceses.

The town of St Andrews was erected into a royal borough by David I. in the year 1140, and its privileges afterwards confirmed. The charter of Malcolm II., written on a small bit of parchment, is preserved in the tolbooth.' Here also are kept the silver keys of the city, which, f 0r form’s sake, are delivered to the king if he should visit the place, or to a victorious enemy in token of submission. In this place, likewise, is to be seen the enormous axe with which, in 1646, Sir Robert Spotswood and other distinguished loyalists were beheaded. The town underwent a siege in 1337, at which time it was possessed by the English and other partisans of Baliol; but the loyalists, under the earls of March and Fife, made themselves masters of it in three weeks, by the help of their battering machines. It is 9 miles E. of Cupar, and 39 N. N. E. of Edinburgh. The population, according to the last census, was 4899. Long. 2. 50. W. Lat. 56. 19. 33. N. (f.)