GHILAN, or Gheełan, a province of Persia, which runs along the south-western shore of the Caspian Sea. It is bounded on the south and south-east by Irak and Mazunderan, on the north by Shirvan, and on the west by Azerbijan. It is hemmed in on the south and west by the Elburz range of mountains, which, at the distance of about fifty miles, runs along the shore of the Caspian Sea, and rises to a great height, like a steep wall. The breadth of the low country, from the sea to the foot of the hills, varies exceedingly; the mountains advancing sometimes to the water’s edge, and in other places retiring to a distance of thirty or forty miles. The boundary of the province, along with that of the contiguous province of Azerbijan, runs along the elevated crests of the mountains in a very irregular and indefinite line; in some places contracting its whole breadth to thirty, in others enlarging it to seventy miles. The whole coast of Ghilan is lined with a belt of impenetrable forest; and behind this barrier are deep back-waters and extensive morasses. On the south, the passes through the mountains are of extreme steepness, difficulty, and length; so that the province is strongly defended by nature against an invading enemy. The plains extending from the Caspian Sea to the mountains are well watered, verdant, and beautiful; the soil is fertile, and yields abundantly rice, wheat, hemp, hops, and many kinds of fruit, such as lemons, oranges, peaches, and pomegranates. Grapes are in the greatest plenty; and the vines which grow wild in the mountains, support themselves, as in Georgia, on the trunks and branches of trees. From want of attention to their culture, they are not however of the best quality, and, like other fruits in Ghilan, are esteemed unwholesome. But of all the productions in this province, that of silk is the most celebrated. The cultivation of this commodity, which employs the industry of the country, and enriches the natives, constitutes the principal trade of Ghilan, and is annually exported in great quantities from Resht and Lankeroon to Astrakhan. The only river of any consequence is the Kizilozien, which descends from the Elburz Mountains with the rapidity of a torrent, and flows with a meandering course through Ghilan to the Caspian Sea. There are few places in Ghilan deserving the appellation of towns. Resht, containing about 80,000 inhabitants, and Lahajan, stand almost alone. Enzellee is but a poor shipping village, dependent on Resht; and Lankeroon, an open roadstead at the mouth of a river, is upon Laliajan. Fornen, Massouleh, Kiskar, and Terego-raum, are large villages, in which there are tolerable bazars; [7:10:497]and there may be many other villages as populous, though not so well established marts for trade. On the other hand, markets are periodically held at places which, except at these particular times, are almost destitute of inhabitants. Throughout the whole of Ghilan, and the neighbouring provinces of Astrabad and Mazunderan, the population may be divided into two classes; the first inhabiting the plains, and living stationary in towns or villages, where they cultivate rice, wheat, cotton, sugar, silk, and are of peaceable and industrious habits; the second class, inhabiting the skirts of the hills, and the valleys amongst them, as well as the villages nearest their base, but who retire during the heat of summer to elevated regions, thus migrating with their flocks in quest of pasture, according to the change of seasons. In the northern parts of Ghilan are the Talish, a fierce tribe of mountaineers, who unite many of the better qualities of highlanders with the barbarity of savages. They are continually marauding among themselves, and plundering their immediate neighbours; and neither property nor life are safe in their hands. They are brave, and devoted to their chiefs; and they are also active, and patient of fatigue; but they are treacherous, merciless, and rapacious towards all the world besides. They are for the most part spare, raw-boned men, of robust though not tall frames. Their dress consists of a loose pair of trousers; the only vest they wear is fitted tight to the body; and the head is covered by a sheepskin cap of red or black wool. About the waist they wear a leathern girdle, from which depends the formidable Ghilanee knife, broad and two-edged, its blade varying from one to two feet in length, and from two to three inches in breadth, exceedingly sharp, and ending in a point, and very deadly in brawls and private quarrels. Over their shoulder they carry their toffing or matchlock, in the use of which they are exceedingly expert. The revenue yielded by this province amounts to about 210,000 tomauns, or L.l 15,000 sterling, a year. This revenue arises from a tax on the export of silk goods and silk, a tax on imports, and a land-tax. We have no accurate account of the population. The cattle are not of a very large size. The cows resemble the lesser breeds of that animal in India; the sheep are also small; and no large horses are bred in these provinces; but there are excellent ponies, which answer all purposes much better, as they are strong and stout, and carry enormous loads through the worst roads in winter, although after long showers they sink to the girths at every step. Ghilan was ceded by the king of Persia to Russia in 1724; it was taken possession of by Catherine II. in 1780, and restored to Aga Mahommed Khan in 1797. The southern parts are subject to Persia; but towards the north, the extensive district of Talish is held by Mustapha Khan, a rebellious and independent chief, who, finding the power of Persia too great for him, invited the Russians to his assistance, promising at the same time to yield them obedience as sovereigns. In the year 1812, he, along with a Russian garrison consisting of 300 men, were driven by the Persians out of Lankeroon, which was garrisoned by 1500 irregular Ghilanee troops, besides two battalions of Persian infantry, and a company of artillery. It was attacked on 13th June with 2000 infantry, 1000 Cossacks, and three vessels of war, and was Carried by assault, with a loss of 1200 men. Mustapha Khan continued till his death in possession of Russian Talish, acknowledging a nominal obedience to the authorities of that empire, who never demanded more; and he has been succeeded by seven sons, who have shared between them the whole country. (Kinneir’s Geographical Memoir of the Persian Entpire ; Fraser’s Travels and Adventures in the Persian Provinces, &c.)