FERMANAGH, a county in the south-western part of the province of Ulster, in Ireland, is bounded on the north by the counties of Donegal and Tyrone, on the east by the county of Monaghan, on the south by the counties of Cavan and Leitrim, and on the west by those of Leitrim and Donegal. It extends over a surface of 471,348 acres, of which 320,999 are arable land, 101,952 are mountain and bog, and 48,797 are under water.

In the time of Ptolemy it was inhabited by the tribe of the Darini. Afterwards it came into the possession of the Maguires, the O’Flanagans, and the O’Reillys; the first-named of which families had the greatest share of property and influence, and its head was looked upon as the dynast or chieftain of the territory. On the settlement of Ulster in the commencement of the reign of James I. the English family of the Coles was ranked among the principal residents. The county was made shire-ground, along with the rest of Ulster, by Elizabeth, when it was divided into the eight baronies of which it consists at present, viz. Clonkelly, Coole, Glenawly, Knockninny, Lurg, Maghera-boy, Maghera-Stephana, and Tyrkennedy. These baronies are subdivided into eighteen parishes and six parts of parishes, the remaining parts of which are included within some of the adjoining counties. According to the ecclesiastical arrangements of Ireland, the chief portion of this county is in the diocese of Clogher; three parishes only being in the adjoining diocese of Kilmore.

The surface is very uneven. The borders tow ards Ty- [7:9:516]’ rone and Cavan, on the east, are mountainous. The northwestern portion towards Leitrim presents one continuous mass of hills, many of them high, rough, and boggy, amongst which Belmore Mountain, swelling out its massive sides towards Lough Erne, stands proudly conspicuous. From the summit of the Tossid Mountain is a most extensive prospect, commanding the view of several counties, and taking in the whole of the lake just mentioned. Quilca Mountain, partly in this county and partly in Cavan, rises to a very considerable height. The hills on the southeastern side of the lough are disposed more in ridges than those near them in the adjoining county of Cavan.

The great feature of the county is Lough Erne, which divides it nearly throughout its whole extent from northwest to south-east. This fine sheet of water forms two long lakes, connected by a strait, on which the town of Enniskillen is situated. They are distinguished by the names of the Upper and Lower Lakes. The former, or the more inland, which lies between Belturbet and Enniskillen, is eleven miles in length, and from half a mile to six miles in width. The latter, which lies between Enniskillen and Belleek, is thirteen miles long, and from two to ten broad. The borders of both are finely broken by numerous bays and inlets, formed by the projections of the surrounding mountains and hills. Both parts of the lake are studded with numerous islands. Popular report makes the number of these equal to that of the days of the year; and, if all the detached points of rock or land visible above water were taken into the account, this number would not be above the truth. There are not, however, more than a hundred and fifty of them ’ which deserve the name of islands. They are in general well formed for scenic effect, and many of them are planted, chiefly with ash and oak, even to the water’s verge. Part of the Upper Lake is so much crowded with them as to give it the appearance, in some parts, more of a flooded country than of an extensive sheet of water. The islands in the Lower Lake are more numerous and picturesque. The largest is Bo or Cow Island, so called from being employed as pasturage; it is situated near the western extremity of the lake. But Devenish Island, near its eastern end, though smaller, is much more celebrated, from having on it one of the most perfect pillar towers in Ireland. Its height is eighty-two feet, and its circumference forty-nine. It is built of cut stone, and finished at the top with a conical roof. Near the summit of the hill which forms the island is the abbey of St Mary’s, of which the belfry staircase and some of the Gothic pillars still remain. At the foot of the hill is a church dedicated to St Molush; and in its vicinity are the remains of that saint’s house, roofed and finished with cut stone. Within a few paces of the house is a stone trough, about six feet long, said to have been his bed, in which those affected with various complaints perform certain prescribed ceremonies, in the hope of obtaining relief. In the island of Ennism’saint are the ruins of an abbey founded by St Nevnid, whose festival is annually celebrated in it. The saint’s bell, ornamented with gold and silver, is still preserved in the island, and held in such veneration as to be used as a relic to swear upon. In the same island is aj>urying-ground, having a large stone cross at its entrance. Innismore is the largest island in the Upper Lake. Belle-isle, containing about two hundred acres, once the favourite residence of the Earl of Ross, and celebrated as well for its natural beauties as for the taste displayed in its improvements, has been suffered to fall into such decay that scarcely a vestige remains of what it once had been. It is connected with the main land by a bridge. Innishar-key Island, near the village of Crum, has been the residence of the representative of the Erne family since the destruction of Crum Castle. The navigation of the lake is chiefly carried on by small vessels called cotts, about ten feet long below, flat-bottomed, with upright sides, and sloping outwards at the stem and stern, so as to allow them to be brought close to the shallow margin of the lake. They are worked by oars; and a broad paddle at the stern serves instead of a rudder. This lake has been pointed out by a late celebrated engineer as an excellent station for steam navigation, although steamers cannot pass from it to Ballyshannon by the Erne, in consequence of the numerous cascades and rapids in that river. Neither is the harbour of Ballyshannon an advantageous site. The course of the steamers should be from Lough Erne through Lough Melvin, and by Manor Hamilton to Sligo; and thence to communicate with the head of the Shannon. Two other lines of inland navigation have been projected, commencing at Lough Erne, and terminating, the one eastwards at Lough Neagh, the other northwards at Lough Foyle; but nothing has as yet been effected towards the accomplishment of either of them. There are some smaller lakes in the county, the largest of which are Lough Melvin, on the borders of Leitrim, and Lough Macnean or Cane, on the confines of Cavan and Leitrim.

The only river of any importance is the Erne, which rises in the county of Cavan, and after passing through Belturbet, falls into Lough Erne at its south-eastern extremity; thence, passing by Enniskillen, it enters the Lower Lake, at the north-western extremity of which it again narrows into a river, and, passing through Belleek, forms a fine water-fall, bursting out through a thick wood in a broad sheet; and afterwards breaking over a ledge of shelving rocks, it foams through the arches of the bridge here thrown over it, after which it becomes more tranquil; yet, still maintaining a rapid current, during a course of nine miles, in which it crosses many lesser ridges of rock, it at length precipitates its water down a noble cataract into the Atlantic at Ballyshannon. The other remarkable rivers are, the Arney, the Ballenclarogh, the Ballycassidy, the Clodagh, the Kish Water, the Moorlaugh, and the Sillas; all of which, together with upwards of fifty smaller streams, contribute to the supply of Lough Erne.

The geological structure of the county consists of sandstone and secondary limestone, alternating with tolerable regularity. Red standstone exists in Tossid Mountain, Yellow sandstone, well adapted for building, lies round the town of Enniskillen. Limestone may be found in several of the islands in Lough Erne. A beautiful species of brown marble is found near Florence-court, a limestone district; but it requires to be worked to a greater depth than at present, in order to procure blocks and slabs free from flaws. Coal is said to have been raised in Glengarron Hills; but as no effort has lately been made to procure this mineral there, notwithstanding the avidity with which mines of every description have been sought out and purchased up, it may be inferred that it is not to be had in sufficient quantities to render it an article of general consumption. The cheapness of turf fuel, which is to be had in all parts, is another reason why coal is not more sought after.

Mineral springs are numerous. Rutty gives a listornineteen, mostly sulphureous, but none are much frequented by strangers; the superior character of the waters of Swadlingbar, in the adjoining county of Cavan, having prevented any successful rivalry.

The population of this county has increased prodigiously from the period in which the subject became an object of special inquiry. According to the several authorities by which it has been ascertained, its progress is as follows.
[table]
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As far as these authorities can be relied on, it appears that the population has increased five-fold in little more than seventy years. At present it exhibits an average of one inhabitant to every three acres of land generally, and to every two cultivable acres.

The state of education, according to the returns made under the population act in 1821, and to those of the Board of Education in 1824-26, is as follows:
[table]

Of the numbers in the latter return, 5283 were of the established church, 246 were Roman Catholics, and 4204 dissenters, whilst the religious persuasion" of sixty was not ascertained. Eighteen schools, containing 1012 pupils, were supported by grants of public money; fifty-nine, containing 3433 pupils, by voluntary subscription; and the remaining 163 schools, containing 5348 pupils, were wholly maintained by the fees of the pupils. As far as the proportions between the religious persuasion of the pupils can be applied as a scale for estimating the adult population, the Catholic portion of it must be extremely small, not constituting more than one-fiftieth of the whole, the remaining forty-nine parts being divided in nearly equal proportions between the Protestants of the established church and the dissenters. But in deducing this inference, due allowance should be made for the circumstance, that the Catholic population chiefly prevails in the mountainous districts, in which the desire for education is more checked by local obstacles than in those parts nearer the towns and the general channels of communication.

Previously to the Union, the county was represented in the Irish parliament by four members, two of whom were returned for the county at large, and two for the borough of Enniskillen. At that period the number was reduced to three, one having been deducted from Enniskillen. No alteration has been produced by the reform act.

The state of the constituency at three periods, the first, before the disfranchisement of the forty-shilling freeholders, which took place on the passing of the Catholic relief bill; the second, subsequent to that event, but previously to the passing of the reform bill; and the third, exhibiting its present state, will appear from the following table:
[table]

Of the last-named number of electors, 1015 voted at the first election under the reform act.

This county is almost exclusively agricultural. Farms vary from nine acres, chiefly under tillage, to large tracts for grazing. Much land is let in the gross to middle-men, who sublet it to smaller tenants. Landowners of this description are distinguished by the name of terny-begs, or little landlords. Tiernagh is the Irish word for a prince. There is much land belonging to the see of Clogher in the county. Rents are paid in the mountainous districts in young cattle, yarn, and butter. Oats and barley are the kinds of grain chiefly raised; wheat is comparatively little grown. The manures are, marl, limestone, limestone gravel, bog-mold, and bog-ashes. The marl is white and light, found under bogs and in banks. That about Florence-court is upon clay and gravel, with springs under it, which cause the marl to run into orms like cinders petrified, and of a reddish cast, as if from vitriolic acid. Marl is but little used in farming, limestone and gravel being found more productive. Land is generally prepared for potatoes by manuring it with dung, or yiffi lime and bog-mud mixed, and with burnt clay, which “found to answer well. Some excellent pasture lands are grazed both by black cattle and sheep. A small breed* of cows is to be met with in all parts. The general stock of sheep is of an inferior kind; neither is there any thing like a flock to be seen. Goats are common, in consequence of the ease with which they are maintained in the mountain pastures. Twenty of these are not counted as a sum, the term used in this county to signify the keep of a cow, or the quantity of land requisite to feed one. The hilly coun-. try affords coarse pasturage for large herds of young cattle; yet that it could be made still more productive by being brought under tillage, is evinced from the success which has attended every judicious effort of industry when thus directed. Timber is more general in Fermanagh than in some of the neighbouring counties. Beech grows to a large size. Ash is a tree peculiarly abundant, both here and in the adjoining counties of Cavan and Tyrone. In the first-mentioned of these counties, indeed, it is constantly found in the hedgerows; and, more particularly in the northern side of Lough Erne, it runs like a weed through the county.

The linen manufacture is carried on here to some extent. The principal kind made is what is termed seven-eighths. There are several bleachfields in different parts. A good deal of wool is also spun, which is generally worked up into druggets, the warp being of tow yarn and the weft of wool. It is chiefly consumed within the county. These manufactures, and the rearing of black cattle, may be considered as the main sources of wealth among the small farmers.

The fish chiefly taken in Lough Erne and its tributary streams are, pike, perch, white and speckled trout, bream, red roach, pullein, salmon, and eels both silver and mud, much esteemed for the excellence of their flavour. There are several large eel-weirs at Enniskillen, where great quantities of these fish are caught. They come from the sea when young, and are intercepted in their return. They never take the bait, nor are they known to take any kind of food. The country people catch them by extending across the stream a band of hay, in which they are so entangled that they are easily taken. Their average weight is about three pounds. Those not sold fresh or sent to Dublin are carried in barrels, each of which contains eight dozen, and are sold in Belturbet. Eighty dozen are sometimes caught in a night. There is also an eel-weir near the falls of Belleek.

Fermanagh has a few resident proprietors of high rank or large income. They are all members of the established church, and derive their titles to their estates from Elizabeth, James I., or Cromwell. A class of yeomanry is also to be met with, who distinguish themselves by the character of being “as good Protestants as any in Ireland a phrase implying not so much any superiority in religious qualifications, as a rooted aversion to their Roman Catholic neighbours. These are farmers, who hold tracts of land of considerable extent, and were settled in the county when the right to the elective franchise was exclusively in the hands of Protestants. At that period, Catholic tenants were often turned out of their farms, and sent farther up the mountains, to make room for the privileged class. The Protestants are a fine race of men, much superior in appearance to those of any other of the northern counties. This superiority arises, in all probability, from their habits of life, which, being peculiarly agricultural, with very little intermixture of sedentary employment at manufactures, are more favourable to the free expansion of the bodily powers. They are tall, well made, and robust. Their countenances display the bloom of health; and they enjoy that uninterrupted flow of animal spirits which is the constant attendant on regular living and active employment. Yet, whether from custom or natural propensity, the peasants do not rise early, and the cows are not milked till noon. There being but few markets for the produce of the soil, little encouragement is given to extraordinary exertion; they [7:9:518]therefore seldoin think of turning their time to the best advantage. The cottars are poor, and their cabins wretched huts, with a wattled door, and a mat on the inside. Yet many of the herdsmen who reside in the mountains are able to give their daughters on their marriage twenty guineas and a feather bed, although the cabins in which they reside are of the wretched description just mentioned, and seem to contain nothing but dirt and wretchedness. In cases of disease the lower classes have no confidence in medicine. When they send for the physician, they consider themselves as having signed their death warrant. An aversion is therefore entertained to the whole medical profession; and those who would not lay out sixpence in an apothecary’s shop will hoard up considerable sums to provide for the expenses of a wake. The custom of assembling round the body of a deceased friend prevails universally amongst the Catholics of all ranks; but it is declining evefy year more and more amongst the Protestants.

The seats of the gentry are very splendid. The principal are, Castle Caldwell, a fine mansion at the foot of a large mountain, having in front the promontory of Rossagoul projecting into the lake, which is here studded with several fine islands; Florence-court, the seat of the Earl of Enniskillen, the façade of which, of the Ionic order, extends 260 feet; Belle-isle, already noticed; Castle Saunderson, near which are some druidical monuments; Dromeoo, Castlecoole, Castle Archdall, Brookborough, and Crum, where there is an extraordinary yew tree, which throws out branches to the distance of forty-five feet.

The towns in this county are few and small, none amounting in population to 6000 souls, and but two having more than 1000 souls each. Enniskillen, the county town, is situated on an island in the strait or river that connects the two portions of Lough Erne. As it was one of the great passes from Ulster into Connaught, it has always been considered as a place of importance. During the war of 1688 it was particularly celebrated for the stand it made against the forces of James II. At a very early period it was the seat of the chief of the Maguire family, the remains of whose castle still exist, having been converted into an artillery barrack. The town occupies the whole island, and is connected with the main land on both sides by a bridge at each end of the High Street. The parish church is a venerable structure, on an elevated position. There is also a Roman Catholic chapel, and three dissenting meetinghouses· The exterior of the county infirmary presents the appearance of a private gentleman’s seat. The markethouse is a light and graceful building, ornamented with a steeple, and containing a suite of rooms for balls and assemblies. The court-house is a plain, grave edifice. The other public buildings are the infantry barrack and the county jail, in the latter of which the prisoners, who are all clothed in a prison-uniform, and arranged in four classes, are employed in breaking stones. A school is kept in it; and the females are superintended by a matron. There is also a tread-mill. The average number of prisoners for the last few years has been seventy. At a small distance from the town is the public school founded by Charles I. who endowed it with an estate of 3360 acres. The head master receives a salary of L.500 per annum, with other advantages. The town maintains a good corn, butter, and fleshmarket, which last is held in convenient shambles. The environs of the town are very beautiful. It opens on the view in a manner peculiarly fine from Florence-court. The hill above the town was formerly planted. A French engineer, sent over by Lord Pelham, cleared it of wood, and erected a fort on it, which, after it had been built, was discovered to be completely commanded by higher ground in the neighbourhood. Enniskillen is celebrated as a depot for obtaining recruits for the army. A regiment of horse was raised here in the time of King William, which is still distinguished by the name of the Enniskillen dragoons. This circumstance, together with the general habits and character of the peasantry, has tended to keep up a military spirit throughout the county. There are few families which have not one or more sons in the army. Young men who intend to enlist travel from very distant parts to this town, where they are sure to meet with recruiting parties to receive them. The population of Enniskillen in 1821 was 2399; in 1831 it was returned at 5270. The only other town containing more than a thousand inhabitantsis Irvinestown, formerly Lowtherstown, the population of which, according to the census of 1831, amounted to 1047. The other collections of houses are mere villages, nor are there many even of these.