BUTESHIRE, a county on the west coast of Scotland, in the Frith of Clyde, is composed of seven islands, viz. Bute, Arran, Great Cumbrae, Little Cumbrae, Inchmar-nock, Lamlash, and Pladda.

Bute, from which the county derives its name, is situated between longitude 4. 51. and 5. 2. W., and latitude 55. 4L and 55. 43. N., and is sixteen miles west from Greenock, thirty-eight miles from Glasgow, and eighty-three from Edinburgh; but the usual route to these places is about four or five miles longer. It is about fifteen miles long, in a straight line from north-north-west to southsouth-east, and the average breadth is three miles and a half, although it is much indented with bays: in some places it is not above half that breadth, but in other places it is at least a mile broader. It is separated on the north from the district of Cowal in Argyleshire by the Kyles of Bute, which for a considerable distance along shore is not above half a mile broad. The more southerly part of the island is separated from Ayrshire by the Frith of Clyde, which is from five to seven miles broad; but the channel is much narrowed by the islands of Cumbraes, being situated betwixt Bute and Ayrshire, and distant from Bute about three miles, but much nearer Ayrshire. Arran lies off the south point of Bute, distant about eight miles; and Skipness in Argyleshire bounds it on the west at about the same distance as Arran. There is considerable uncertainty as to the origin of the name of Bute. Some contend that it is derived from Both, signifying in the Irish tongue a cell; and they ground this on the fact, that is has been so written by ancient authors, and that St Brendan, an Irish abbot, caused a cell to be erected on it in the sixth century. It has been written Both, Bote, Boot, and Botis; but Mr Blain, some time commissary of the isles, and sheriff-substitute of Buteshire, in his manuscript history of Bute, endeavours to show, with considerable ingenuity, that it has been derived from the old British word Ey Budh, or Gaelic word Ey Bhiod, signifying the Island of Corn or Island of Food, from its being more fertile than the adjacent highland countries; and this opinion appears to be still fuιther supported by the fact, that at the time of valuing the teinds, the grain in the island amounted to about

34,700 bolls. The Butemen were anciently considered as. a distinct people, and refused to be reckoned a part of the highlands, or even of the lowlands. The island contains about 30,000 English acres, of which about two thirds may be considered as arable; the remainder consists of woods, muirs, mosses, and lakes. There are six lakes in the island. The largest, Loch Fad, extended originally to 138 acres, but is now considerably enlarged by the embankments of the cotton spinning company, whose works are placed on the water flowing from this lake. Ascog Loch extends to seventy-two acres. The water flowing from this loch has also an excellent fall for a mill or other public work; but nothing further has yet been erected on it than a dye-work, and a carding and wauking mill. It is hoped, however, that it will soon be made more available. Quien Loch covers fifty-four acres; Greenan Loch, twelve acres; Loch Dhu, or Black Loch, nine acres; and Lochan-tarbh, five acres. The climate is very mild, genial, and healthy, more so than in any other part of the west of Scotland. It is frequently compared to Devonshire, and in some respects is considered as superior. The lofty mountains of Arran and Argyle skirt it on the west and south, and break the clouds coming from the Western Ocean, so that they pass over Bute with a discharge of comparatively but little of their contents, and less rain falls here than on the rest of the west coast of Scotland. In summer the air is kept cool by the sea breeze, and in winter the same cause prevents intense frost; while snow seldom falls to the depth of twelve inches, and very rarely remains above two or three days on the ground. The winds most prevalent blow from the sputh and west.

Agriculture, under the fostering care of the Marquis of Bute, has of late years made considerable progress in the island, especially in the middle and southern divisions. The soil in the southern half of the island is light and sandy; in the more northern it is of a clayey nature. The land is generally well subdivided with ditches and white-thorn hedges. Crops of all kinds common in the lowlands are produced in Bute.

Freestone and coal are both found in the island, but neither to any great extent. Several attempts have been made to get a good working vein of coals, but hitherto without success. But slate and lime are found in it. The slate has been princ pally wrought on the estate of Kames, formerly the seat of Sir William M 4 Leod Bannatyne, one of the lords of session, but now possessed by James Hamilton, Esq. The lime has been chiefly wrought in the south end of the island, in the parish of Kingarth; and that manufactured there is considered as equal, if not superior, in point of adhesiveness, to the far-famed Arden lime of Lanarkshire, when properly wrought; and it is much cheaper, though not so white in the colour. Inexhaustible beds of shells are found on the west side of the island, and considerable quantities of sea-weed are driven in upon the shores. The rocks in the north end are chiefly mica, clay, and chlorite slate, intersected with quartz and trap. Whinstone is chiefly found near the town of Rothesay, and sandstone stretches along from thence to the south. .

Excellent banks for fishing are found round the island; and the herring fishery is prosecuted vigorously by the inhabitants, especially by residents in Rothesay.

The Marquis of Bute is the chief proprietor of the island. His seat is Mountstuart, beautifully situated on the east side of the island, about four miles from Rothesay. The real rent of his property in the island is about L.8000, including L.440 of ŕeu-cluty for ground feued chiefly within the burgh of Rothesay. The other proprietors of any extent are James Hamilton, Esq. of Kames, rent L.1500; Kirkman Findlay, Esq. of Kilmahalmaig, [7:5:751]L.500; Robert Thom, Esq. of Ascog, L.300; M‘Conechy of Ambrisbeg, L.70; James M‘Kay of Garrachty, L.70.

The burgh of Rothesay, the capital of the island and shire, is beautifully situated at the head of a deep bay on the north-east side of the island, where there is safe anchorage-ground for vessels of any size and any wind, and room enough to contain a very large fleet. The territory of the burgh is about nine miles in circumference, extending fülly a mile beyond the town on the east, south, and west sides. The burgh has an extensive harbour, built in 1822, at an expense of L.6000. The shipping belonging to this port carries upwards of 4000 tons. There is a large spinning factory, consisting of two mills, in Rothesay, driven by water from Loch Fad; and it may be worthy of notice, that the second mill erected in Scotland for the spinning of cotton was upon this water only about fifty-five years ago, when the business was carried on with the strictest secrecy. The house then used was a thatched building, which is still standing. A power-loom factory, wrought by a steam-engine, has lately been erected. But the herring fishery has proved the chief source of employment to the male population. In 1830 there were about 400 men and 3000 tons of shipping employed in this trade, besides a great number of small wherries occupied in fishing about the island and neighbourhood. Several steam-boats ply daily to and from Glasgow and the intermediate ports. These convey the ŵail; and in the summer season there are generally two, and sometimes three mails in the day.

There are four places of worship in Rothesay; the parish church, situated on a gentle eminence about a quarter of a mile from the town; a chapel of ease, erected in 1800; a united secession church; and a reformed Presbyterian church. The county jail is situated in Rothesay, where the head courts of the shire are held. The sheriff court is held every Wednesday, and the burgh court every Thursday. The ruins of an ancient castle, which was once the residence of the kings of Scotland, are situated in the middle of the town. It originally consisted of a circular court, 138 feet in diameter, surrounded by a wall eight feet thick and seventeen feet high, with battlements. It had four towers, and was surrounded by a wet ditch. It is supposed to have been built about the year 1100, though the particular date is not known. It is first mentioned in history in 1228. ∏eulbec, king of the Isles, was killed in besieging this castle in 1263. It was taken possession of by the English during the reign of lohn Baliol, but surrendered to Robert the Bruce in 1311. King Robert the Second built a palace adjoining the castle, and frequently took up his residence in it betwixt 1376 and 1398, when he created his eldest son Prince David Duke of Rothesay, a title which the king’s eldest son still bears. This was the first dukedom conferred in Scotland. On the 12th January 1400 Robert granted the charter of erection of the burgh of Rothesay. He died in the castlc of Rothesay on 4th April 1406, and was buried in the abbey of Paisley. This castle was burned by the Earl of Argyll’s brother in 1685, and has since remained in ruins. The population of the burgh of Rothesay in 1831 was 4817, besides upwards of 300 seamen belonging to registered vessels, not included in the census.

The island is divided into two parishes, Rothesay and Kingarth; the former containing a population of 6084, including the burgh; and the latter 746; thus making the whole population of the island 6830, exclusive of seamen, of whom there are betwixt 300 and 400 belonging to or connected with registered vessels. This island is highly esteemed, and is much resorted to as sea-bathing quarters in the summer season; and many invalids are induced, by the mildness of the climate, to reside there during winter.

There are several remains of druidical monuments on the island, but the chief or most entire is at Langalchorid, in the parish of Kingarth. At Dunagoil, in this parish, there is a vitrified fort, and the remains of an old church and burying-ground, where, until after the reformation, the two sexes were not allowed to intermingle. Near this church there is a circular inclosure called the Devil’s Cauldron, where penance was wont to be performed. As this rite of superstition is somewhat singular, we shall describe it. Transgressors were imprisoned in this terrene purgatory for a given time, which, it may be readily conceived, was meted out according to the magnitude of the offences committed, being sometimes for several days and nights together. The priest threatened eternal punishment to the whole party if but one of their number fell asleep. To provide against this, the penitents were furnished with a sharp instrument, with which they kept pricking each other when inclined to somnolency.

There are three small villages in the island; Port Ban-natyne, situated at the head of Kames Bay, about two and a half miles from Rothesay; Kerrycroy, near Mountstuart, the seat of the Marquis of Bute; and Kilcatten Bay, situated on the south side of the island. The natives formerly spoke the English and Gaelic languages indifferently, but English is now chiefly spoken.

Arran is situated about eight miles south of Bute. It is very mountainous. Goatfield, a mountain situated about the centre of the island, is 2945 feet high; and some others approach to that height. There is a remarkably fine view from this mountain on all sides, whence is seen part of the Atlantic Ocean, Ireland, the counties of Ayr, Renfrew, Argyle, and Bute, the Frith of Clyde, Loch Fine, and hundreds of other scenes both grand and picturesque. There are many druidical remains and monumental stones on the island. Fingal’s Cave is still pointed out; and tradition says Ossian died on this island. It is about twenty miles long and eleven broad, and contains about 106,000 English acres, 15,000 of which only are arable. Abundance of game and some wild deer are found on the mountains. These are either bare rocks, or only covered with heath and fern. There is comparatively little wood in the island, except near Brodick Castle. The climate in winter is very severe, and generally moist. The whole island, except a few farms, belongs to the Duke of Hamilton, in which family it has been for several centuries. The roads are for the most part very good, having been chiefly made by the parliamentary commissioners a few years ago; and the expense of repairs is defrayed partly by the exchequer, and partly by the proprietors, in terms of the act 59 Geo. III. cap. 135. The herring fishery is prosecuted to a considerable extent, but this is almost wholly done by means of wherries and other small vessels. There are two excellent harbours in the island, Lamlash and Loch Ranza, but without piers of any extent. There is a small pier at Brodick, but the bay is not well sheltered for anchorage. A very extensive pier was commenced at Lamlash in the reign of Queen Anne, and a considerable part erected, but it was afterwards neglected; and all the stones above the water have from time to time been removed for building or other purposes, so that now the foundation can scarcely be traced; and the only landing place is a small jetty recently built. The island produces barley, bear, oats, peas, beans, potatoes, and turnips. The islanders have been long addicted to illicit distillation, a practice which has not yet been given up, although it has considerably diminished, owing, it is believed, to the strong laws enacted against it, and the firmness with which they are executed. The smugglers give a better price for the barley and bear than could otherwise be obtained, and this enables the tenants to pay a better rent. We see no reason why this demoralizing traffic should not be as effectually[7:5:752] put a stop to here as it has been in the Isle of Bute, by the exertions of the principal proprietor. From the prevalence of this practice, the inhabitants of Arran have acquired a very reserved and suspicious manner, especially in the presence of strangers. A visitor to Arran will be sometimes amazed to find, that in putting a question about any individual or place in the island, to any of the natives, no satisfactory answer will be returned, until he, in his turn, undergo a process of examination as to his purpose in landing, and his objects in asking for these persons and places; and, from the same cause, it is very difficult to discover the perpetrator of any crime, unless it be of very considerable magnitude. Agriculture was much neglected till of late; every farm being occupied by a society of tenants, among whom the arable part of the farm was divided in small lots, and the pasturage grounds and moors were a common under one herd; but they are now well subdivided. There has been a great emigration from this island to America of late years, although the inhabitants are strongly attached to their native soil. The language chiefly spoken by the natives is Gaelic, but they are rapidly advancing in the knowledge of English. The islanders are all Protestants, and strongly attached to the church of Scotland. Christianity is said to have been introduced here by St Molios, a disciple of St Columba. The island is divided into two parishes, and has also two chapels. The largest parish is. named Kilmory, and contains 3771 inhabitants; the other parish is named Kilbride, and contains 2656 inhabitants, making the population of the island 6427, besides a few seamen belonging to registered vessels. The population of this island has rather decreased of late years, owing to emigration. Arran is highly celebrated for its mineralogy. (See Jameson’s Mineralogy of the Scottish Isles, Headrich’s Survey of Arran, and Dr M‘Culloch’s works.) Granite, rock crystal, quartz, and small-grained granite, are abundant in the northern division of the island. Mica slate and granite unite at Catacoal. Gneiss, micaceous schistus, and puddingstone, are abundant at Glenrosa. Quartz is found in all kinds of crystallization, in beds of clay slate and in other situations. Greenstone, sandstone resting on clay slate, basalt, trap, and limestone, are abundant. Pitchstone is found on the south, with pearlstone, ironstone, and porphyry; also flint, agate, siliceous spar, jasper, and various beautiful crystals.

Great Cumbraes is situated in the Frith of Clyde, betwixt Ayrshire and the island of Bute. It is the property of the Marquis of Bute and the Earl of Glasgow. It is about two miles and a half long, and one and a half broad, and measures about 2500 acres, one half of which is arable. It has a gentle ascent of about 400 feet from the sea to the centre of the island. The village of Millport is situated on the south-west side of the island, opposite which there is very safe anchorage-ground, and a small harbour is formed with a stone pier. The island abounds with lime and freestone. Considerable quantities of the freestone are exported, but the lime is seldom wrought. There are two basaltic rocks on the east side of the island, called Reppel Walls. It forms one parish, and has one church. The population in 1831 was 877, besides thirty-five seamen belonging to registered vessels.

Little Cumbrae lies about half a mile south of Great Cumbrae. It is the property of the Earl of Eglintoun. It is about a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. Rabbits are very plentiful on this island. A light-house was erected in 1750 on the highest point of the island, but it was found that the fogs obscured the light; it was therefore removed to a lower situation. Three or four families live on it. The ruins of a castle are situated on the south side. The ascent from the shore is over rocks, which rise one above another like steps of stairs. There are several caves in the island, two of them very large. The extent of one of these is not known, but the other is thirty-two feet square, and six feet in height.

Inchmarnoch is a low-lying, small, beautiful island, situated about a mile west from Bute, It takes its name from a chapel built on it, dedicated to St Marnoch, and which had a burying-ground attached. The ruins were visible till very lately, when they were removed by the rude hands of a farmer. It is about a mile long and half a mile broad, and is divided into three farms, and nearly one half is arable. It is the property of the Marquis of Bute, and abounds in sea shell or marl. The inhabitants acknowledge the spiritual jurisdiction of the parish of Rothesay, although it was long considered as belonging to Saddel in Argyleshire, from the monks of St Marnoch being attached to the convent of Saddel; and still the minister of Kerry derives a portion of his stipend from this island.

Pladda is a small island, which lies about a mile southeast from Arran, on which there is a light-house, which directs the mariner to the Cumbrae light.

Lamlash is a small island situated in the mouth of Lamlash Bay, in Arran, and helps to form that safe and capacious harbour.

The valued rent of the county in Scots money isL.15,042. 13s. 10d. The lands belong to twelve proprietors. The valuation Scots of the Marquis of Bute’s land is L.8066. 5s. 4įd.; that of the Duke of Hamilton, including a few farms belonging to Miss Ann Hamilton, is L.4955. lis. Nearly one fourth of the lands in the county is entailed. The real rent of the lands in 1811 was L.18,560. 9s. 2d., of the houses L.2310. Is. 7d. Of the thirty-three shires of Scotland, Bute was the twelfth in point of precedency in the Scottish parliament rolls and all public processions, though not entitled to that rank in point of valuation. It sent two members to parliament before the union; since that time, and till the passing of the reform bill, Bute and Caithness returned a member alternately; now Bute returns a member for itself. The family of Bute were hereditary sheriffs of the county for upwards of 360 years, until the jurisdictions were taken away in 1748. They were also lords of the regality of Bute. The present marquis is lord-lieutenant and high sheriff of the shire, and heritable coroner of the island of Bute, and keeper of the castle of Rothesay. Criminals usually tried before the justiciary court are sent to the circuit court at Inverary. Buteshire sends ten assizers to that circuit court. The islands of Bute and Cumbrae were granted by the sovereign of Scotland, at an early period, to the lord high steward; and when they fell under the power of Norway, the monarch of that country gave Bute and certain other islands to Reginald, king of Man. After the marriage of Alexander VI., lord high steward, with Jean, daughter and heiress of Angus, one of the grandsons of the king of Man, the islands of Bute, Arran, and Cumbrae became a favoured part of the patrimony of the lord high steward, between whom and the people a strong attachment subsisted; and they were, by way of distinction, called the Lord High Steward’s Brandanes. It is probable that this name was derived from St Brandane, who flourished in the eleventh century. Sir John Stewart of Bute, from whom the family of Bute descended, was son to King Robert II., and received from his father the office of heritable sheriff, as well as an estate of lands in Bute and Arran. In the year 1544 the English burned the greater part of Bute and Arran. The shire of Bute contains 154 English square miles, or 98,547 English acres; and the population in 1831 amounted to 14,134, besides seamen belonging to registered vessels, of whom there might be about 400.
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