ASSAM, a kingdom of Asia, situated on the north-west of Bengal, between the 25th and 26th degrees of north latitude, and extending from 94 to 99 degrees of east longitude. The exact limits, however, are not precisely ascertained; for this country is very little known to Europeans, and what respects its extent to the east is at present to be understood as partly conjectural. Assam is an immense valley, about 700 miles in length by between 60 and 80 in breadth, surrounded by high hills on all sides, and interspersed with numerous eminences in the interior, and universally susceptible of cultivation. The whole superficies is calculated at 60,000 square miles, a large portion of which is occupied by woods and rivers, and the remainder consists chiefly of fertile soil; but this calculation is exclusive of any conquered countries, and of the territories that extend in every line beyond the hills. Part of the kingdom is mountainous, particularly what is called Higher or Upper Assam; and part of it is low and level, containing extensive plains, subject to frequent inundations in the rainy seasons. The general position of this great valley, as well as of the mountains and rivers traversing it, is in a direction from north to south. It is bounded on the north by the successive ranges of the mountains of Bootan, Anka, Duffala, and Miree; and on the south by the Garrow Mountains, which rise higher as they recede northward, and change their name to Naga at a place called Coliabark. Probably the rivers intersecting Assam are more numerous than those of any other country of equal extent in the universe, from its being completely environed by hills. The rains are coIIected together, and, pouring down in irresistible torrents, swell' the waters below, until the plains are covered by the inundation. The valley is divided throughout by the Brahmaputra into two parts nearly equal; and many islands, some of them very large, are formed by it and by the confluence and mutual intersection of other rivers. They contribute alike to fertilize the ground and to facilitate the intercourse of the inhabitants, as they are navigable by flat-bottomed boats, capable of transporting them and their property. Of these rivers, not Iess than sixty-one are known and distinguished by particular names, of which thirty-four flow from the northern, and twenty-four from the southern mountains; but the source of the Brahmaputra is scarcely yet ascertained, nor were Europeans acquainted with its course until it was traced by Major Rennell. However, it seems to rise beyond the confines of Assam.. As the rivers change their names at different places, it is sometimes difficult to discover which is meant in the description; and their sizes may be estimated differently, according as they are examined in the time of inundation, or otherwise. Many of them are remarkable for a long and winding course. The Dhekow or Degoo, by the size of which geographers are accustomed to compare the other rivers, rises very far to the eastward of the Naga Mountains, which it traverses for a considerable distance, and then winds 200 miles through the valley from its entrance, until it joins the Dehingh, a great branch of the Brahmaputra. Another river, the Dekrungh, rises in the Duffala Mountains, and, exhibiting a large stream, occupies 100 miles in its windings before falling into the Brahmaputra, though the direct line does not exceed 25. Notwithstanding its depth and rapidity, it is navigable by small boats. The river Pisola⅛ which likewise rises in the Duffala Mountains, pursues a winding course of 60 miles, and, during the rainy season, may be ascended to the base of the mountains; but it is not navigable after the inundations subside. The rivers to the south are never so rapid, as the inundations commence from the northern rivers. Both these and the Brahmaputra are filled, so that the water has no considerable current until May or June, when the current is rather stronger from the south in the season of the rains, though the increase is not very material, as the large river at this period is always pretty full, and checks the rapidity of all the southern rivers.

Among the numerous islands of different dimensions formed by the intersection and confluence of the rivers, is Majuli, or the Great Island, as it is called by pre-eminence, which appears to constitute one of the chief political divisions of the kingdom. This island extends 100 miles in length by about 60 in breadth, and is formed by the river Dehingh on the west and the Looichch on the north; but, independently of these great aquatic boundaries, it is intersected by numerous streams, so that it in fact consists of a cluster of lesser islands, and some islets besides, near the banks, which in the principal rivers are dry only while no inundations prevail. The other islands throughout Assam are of all different dimensions, from the most inconsiderable size to six, ten, or twenty miles and more in length. A correct picture of the country may thus be figured as being an extensive valley, environed by mountains, and full of rivers and level plains. While the rivers constitute its defence, promote the convenience of its inhabitants, and contribute to fertilize the soil overflowed by their inundations, they interrupt occasional intercourse from their magnitude and rapidity; and it is to be observed that there is only one stone-bridge in the kingdom, which was erected at Rungpore by workmen brought from Bengal. Besides the Great Island, or [7:3:706]Majulĭ, Assam contains other two political divisions, Ootrecole, Uttarcul, or Ootreparah; and Deccancole, Dac-shincul, or Deccanparah; the former of which, Ootrecole, denotes the country lying north of the Brahmaputra; the latter, Deccancole, that to the south. And it is farther to be remarked, that Majuli is formed by great arms of the same river, though passing by different names.

The political subdivisions of Assam are apparently almost as numerous as the more important natural ones; but the province of Camroop in Ootrecole is one of the largest, and the best known by description, at least to Europeans. It formerly gave name to an extensive kingdom, of which the capital seems to have been Rangmattee, beyond the present western confines of Assam. It now stretches about 100 miles in length; and its breadth, from the banks of the Brahmaputra to the foot of the mountains, is 40 miles. There are no strong places within its limits, and its chief town is Cotta. The district of Sum-mooria occupies the southern banks of the Brahmaputra; and the district of Nodooaria, which extends to the eastward, is divided into nine shares or districts, held by so many rajahs, though under the rule of only two.

Valuable minerals are found in Assam: the whole country produces gold in abundance, insomuch that from 12,000 to 20,000 of the inhabitants are said to have been constantly employed in collecting it. This precious metal is found in all the rivers flowing from the northern mountains, but it differs in purity and colour, and also in malleability. That which is obtained in the Dekrungh is particularly celebrated, and is distinguished by a higher colour than that found in the Brahmaputra and other rivers. Gold is more abundant in the bed of the Brahmaputra than in the channel of most of the others, but is considered inferior in colour and quality. What is procured from the bed of the Burrowgown is esteemed as much superior even to the gold of the Dekrungh; the colour is deeper and more vivid, and is compared by the natives to fire; it is likewise deemed of more intrinsic value, and always bears a greater price in Assam. The greatest quantities of gold are found nearest the mountains, which probably indicates that it is carried down from them by the torrents; but it is never sought in the beds of the southern rivers. In the others, as those flowing from the north, it is of a paler colour, less pure, and in smaller quantity, according as it is recovered from the mines farther to the east. The persons employed in collecting it pay a small tribute to the sovereign in proportion to their success. Besides this precious metal, there are mines of silver, lead, and iron, which all belong to the king, and are wrought for his advantage alone. Rock-salt is dug out of the earth, but it is bitter, and of indifferent quality. The vegetable products of Assam are abundant, and of excellent quality: thick and extensive forests cover a large portion of the country; cultivated fields, especially of rice, the staple grain for subsistence, and the finest fruits, are generally to be seen. A Persian writer, Mahommed Cazim, in describing this country, makes some observations on its general appearance, which, as he was hostile to the inhabitants, may probably merit the greater confidence. He speaks of Majuli as “an island well inhabited, and in an excellent state of agriculture: it contains a spacious, clear, and pleasant country, extending to the distance of about 100. miles. The cultivated part is bounded by a thick forest, which harbours elephants, and where these animals may be caught, as well as in four or five other forests of Assam. If there be occasion for them, five or six hundred elephants may be procured in a year. Across the Dhonce, which is the side of Ghergong, is a wide, agreeable, level country, that delights the heart of the beholder. The whole face of it is marked with population and tillage; and it presents on every side charming prospects of ploughed fields, harvests gardens, and groves. From the village of Salagerah to the city of Ghergong, a space of about 100 miles is filled with such an uninterrupted range of gardens, plentifully stocked with fruit-trees, that it appears as one garden. Within them are the houses of peasants, and a beautiful assemblage of coloured and fragrant herbs, and of garden and wild flowers blowing together. As the country is overflowed in the rainy season, a high and broad causeway has been raised for the convenience of travellers, from Salagerah to Ghergong, which is the only uncultivated ground that is to be seen. Each side of this road is planted with shady bamboos, the tops of which meet and are entwined. Among the fruits which this country produces are mangoes, plantains, jacks, oranges, citrons, limes, and punialeh, a species of amleh, which has such an excellent flavour that every person who tastes it prefers it to the plum. There are also cocoa-nut trees, pepper, vines, areca-trees, and the sadi; (an aromatic leaf), in great plenty. Sugar-cane excels in softness and sweetness, and is of three colours, black, red, and white; there is ginger free from fibres, and betel-vines. The strength of vegetation and fertility of the soil is such, that whatever seed is sown, or slips planted, they always thrive. The environs of Ghergong furnish small apricos, yams, and pomegranates; but as these are wild, and not assisted by cultivation and engrafting, they are very indifferent. The principal crop of this country consists in rice and mash. Ades, a kind of pea, is very scarce, and wheat and barley are never sown.” This is a favourable picture of the kingdom; and although the revolutions and convulsions which it has since undergone may have affected the industry of the inhabitants, the means of renewing it remain.

Elephants, wild buffaloes, hogs, and tigers, haunt the banks of the rivers, which are covered with grass and reeds so as to be impenetrable by men. It has been affirmed that there are neither horses, asses, nor camels here, though two species of the first are natives of a neighbouring territory. The other animals are unknown, but the rivers abound so plentifully with fish as to afford a copious supply to the inhabitants. A particular kind of animal, different from the common silk-worm, according to Turpin, produces silk of another texture, with which beautiful dresses, but of bad quality, are fabricated.

It is not unlikely that some external physical distinctions prevail among the natives, according as they inhabit the high or the low countries, and that their moral qualities are influenced by the same cause. Mahommed Cazim remarks, that the complexion of the mountaineers, like that of the inhabitants of all cold climates, is red and white. They are an active, hardy race, well formed; but the noses of the women are flattish. Both sexes go almost naked; formerly the mountaineers were absolutely so; and, unlike the easterns in general, none of the females, even those of the highest rank, are veiled. They wear a blue bonnet or cap, from which hogs’ teeth are suspended; which is perhaps of more recent use, as the Persian just referred to says they had neither turbans, robes, drawers, nor shoes. Their most valuable ornaments at present are bracelets of coral or yellow amber, and sometimes tortoise-shell or sea-shells. They dwell in habitations constructed of wood, bamboos, and straw; and there is only an inconsiderable difference between those of die more wealthy and the poorer classes. With regard to their state of civilization, or their manners and customs, we have very little certain information applicable to the present times. Most probably the mountaineers are more barbarous than the inhabitants of the low country and the plains; and as the kingdom is divided into a number of [7:3:707] petty states, those may be subordinate to some paramount authority; but the frequent broils of the rajahs retard the civilization of their subjects. Mahommed Cazim, who entertained a decided aversion to the Assamese, reproaches them with indiscriminately feeding “on all kinds of food, human flesh excepted; they even eat animals that have died a natural death.” He divides them into two tribes, Assamians and Cultanians; the latter excelling the former in every thing but warlike operations.

It appears that the government of this kingdom is monarchical, and that a sultan or rajah rules the whole; yet, owing to the incessant contest for power, the course of succession, if it be hereditary, is disturbed, and the most potent chief, gaining an ascendency, restores the country to peace. The government was wont to be mildly administered: in the words of Turpin, the “king was attentive to the happiness of his subjects, and employed none excepting slaves to labour in the mines. It was the only country where humanity was not crushed under the pressure of despotism.” Formerly the rajah kept a guard of six or seven thousand warlike troops, whose courage was equal to any enterprise.

The religion of these people is supposed by Mr Hamilton to be Brahminical. It is certain that they have many temples erected to their divinities throughout their territories, although the character and description of these divinities have never been explained. In the time of Aurungzebe they are said to have had no settled faith: They do not adopt any mode of worship practised either by Heathens or Mahometans; nor do they concur with any of the known sects which prevail amongst mankind. But it is by no means credible that all their temples have been erected since that era. Rafts covered with human heads are sometimes seen floating down the Brahmaputra through Bengal, which has excited conjectures that they belonged to victims offered to their sanguinary deities. It is not evident, however, that human sacrifices, unless the destruction of life at funeral obsequies be called such, are publicly offered up in the neighbouring Asiatic territories. This species of barbarity has been widely extended over the world; captives were slaughtered at the pile of the ancients,—slaves were buried alive to serve their masters in the world to come,—and even the chosen wife of liter husband’s affections has been doomed to destruction at the same moment that his earthly remains were consigned to oblivion. Such customs have been familiar to mankind from the earliest records of time, and, among the rest, were practised by the natives of Assam. On the decease of a rajah, or any distinguished person, a capacious pit was prepared, where not only his own body, but many of his women and attendants, were also buried. Of the latter was a torch-bearer, together with a quantity of oil and lamps, as essential to his comfort in a future state; some of his most elegant and useful furniture, carpets and clothes, were, in like manner, included; and even elephants, together with gold and silver, formed part of the promiscuous assemblage. A strong roof, resting on thick timbers, was then constructed over the pit, and the miserable victims not already slain were left to perish by a lingering death.

In regard to the state of the arts, it is to be inferred that the Assamese are behind many nations in their vicinity. Formerly they manufactured excellent silks, chiefly for home consumption; they likewise fabricated velvet, and embroidered it beautifully with flowers. Perhaps the same is continued, as also the extraction of salt from vegetable substances; and their gunpowder was reputed of the best quality. Nay, the easterns hence ascribed the invention of this destructive substance to their ingenuity, and affirm that it passed from them to Pegu, and thence to China. Their chief exports to Bengal are gold, elephants’ teeth, two kinds of lac, which was esteemed the finest in those regions, a coarse raw silk, and coarse cotton cloths. Brandy is made from grapes, afforded by the numerous vines in Assam. Agriculture is certainly well understood: the populousness of several districts which have attracted the attention of the traveller, proves that there is no scarcity of subsistence; and well-frequented fairs are spoken of as being held in different places. Assam contains some celebrated temples, probably of ancient date; and their military causeways, constructed at an early period of their history, are of admirable extent and magnitude. One of these, now in a state of decay, runs from Cooch Bahar in Bengal, through Rangamatty, to the utmost extremity of the eastern limits of the kingdom, serving as a boundary of the Bootan dominions. Another, a work of immense labour, passes the capital; and the banks of the Dhekow are connected with the southern mountains by a lofty rampart, traversing the space of ten or fifteen miles. It is undoubted, that although most authors who have treated of this subject describe these structures as military causeways only, they have served both as the means of communication among the inhabitants during the season of inundations, and as barriers to the overflowing rivers spreading still farther on the plains. Thus the great causeway which approaches the capital was raised to preserve the interior from the inundations of the Dehingh, while in the dry season the river retires two miles from its base.

A great many towns and villages are scattered over the banks of the rivers of Assam, these having been peculiarly selected by the natives for their habitations; and a certain number seems to be included in a circle under the same administration. The capital, which is called Ghergong, Kirgana, or perhaps more properly Gurgown, is situated in 25° 35' north latitude, 93° 10' east longitude, at a considerable distance above Rungpore, which is sometimes called the capital, but is only the military station of Ghergong. It stands on the high banks of the river Dhekow or Degoo. This city Dr Wade, who resided ten years in Assam, describes to have been ten miles long by five in breadth; and we learn from other authors that it was fortified and encircled by a fence of bamboos, inclosing villages and fields in its circuit. Like other cities of the East, each house stood separate, amidst a cultivated spot or garden; each side of the river was lined with dwellings, and the royal palace was situated on its banks. It had four gates, constructed of earth and stone, from each of which the palace was distant four miles and a half, by which means its position was nearly in the centre, and close to the Dhekow. This palace was a spacious edifice, apparently between two and three miles in circuit, surrounded by a causeway, planted on each side by a close bamboo hedge, serving instead of a wall, and beyond them a wet ditch, always full of water. The interior contained many apartments, both for state and convenience, elegantly ornamented. Mahommed affirms it as an undoubted fact, that 3000 carpenters and 12,000 labourers were constantly occupied, during two years, in constructing the palace; but an insurrection, which took place about the year 1790, proved almost totally destructive of it and the rest of the city. Rungpore, situated in 25° 47' north latitude, and 89° 5' east longitude, stands on the opposite side of the Dhekow, with the river Numdaugh flowing on the south; a rampart or causeway to resist the inundations protects it on the east; and on the west it is secured by a bridge, the only access whereby it can be approached. The circle including it contains several towns, and is about twelve miles in length by ten in breadth. Goahautee is the capital of Lower Assam, and [7:3:708]the residence of a viceroy. The surrounding territory occupies a hilly country on both sides of the Brahmaputra, the hills on each side forming a spacious amphitheatre, which has been fortified equally by nature and art. The district Goahautee is divided into north and south, including several strong passes among the fortified hills. A great number of other towns might be mentioned by name; but, excepting their position, we are unacquainted with any thing regarding them.

The history of this kingdom is involved in great obscurity, arising both from its remote situation, and from a jealousy of strangers, which has almost entirely precluded the access of Europeans; and by a singular fatality, after this difficulty had been conquered by the admission and residence of an intelligent physician, Dr Wade, some of the most important materials collected by him were lost on being transmitted to Europe. The present race of inhabitants is said to have occupied the country during a thousand years, but not by any means in tranquillity; at least we know that, since 1638, they have been involved in frequent contests with their neighbours. In these, however, they have in general been successful, for unconquerable obstacles are opposed to their enemies. “Whenever an invading army has entered their territories, the Assamese have sheltered themselves in strong posts, and have distressed the enemy by stratagems, surprises, and alarms, and by cutting off their provisions. If these means failed, they have declined a battle in the field, but have carried the peasants into the mountains, burnt the grain, and left the country desert. But when the rainy season has set in upon the advancing enemy, they have watched their opportunity tq make excursions and vent their rage; the famished invaders have either become their prisoners, or been put to death. In this manner powerful and numerous armies have been sunk in that whirlpool of destruction, and not a soul has escaped.” Such dangers were sufficient to intimidate the boldest adventurers, and we have the testimony of eye-witnesses that they are not exaggerated. About the close of the fifteenth century, Husein Shah, king of Bengal, invaded Assam with a formidable force of cavalry, infantry, and also of boats; and, in the outset, was successful. The rajah, unable to meet him in the plains, retired to the mountains, whither Husein could not follow him; but returning to Bengal, he left his son with a large army to keep possession of the country; the rainy season commenced, and the roads were shut up by inundations; then the rajah descended from the mountains, intercepted the supplies of the invaders, harassed them with skirmishes, and cut off the whole in detail. Another prince of Hindostan attempted the conquest of Assam, with an immense force of cavalry; but, says the author who records the enterprise, they were all devoted to oblivion in that country of enchantment, and no intelligence or vestige of them remained. The Assamese, however, in 1638 met with a reverse of fortune in leaving their own confines to sail down the Brahmaputra and assail the inhabitants of Bengal, being repulsed by the troops of Shah Jchaun.

The rajah of Assam had assumed or preserved the title of ⅛arjce or Swerg, which signifies celestial, and lived in great pomp and splendour in the reign of Aurungzebe, the Mogul emperor, who died in 1707. That great prince, desirous of extending his conquests, sent an army, under an able general, to attempt the subjugation of this kingdom; partly, it would appear, to humble the pride of the rajah, who was so vain-glorious as to believe that his ancestors were of divine origin, and that one of them, inclining to visit the earth, descended by a golden ladder; and partly to disseminate the principles of the Mahometan faith. The army advanced victoriously, conquering all opposition, and gained possession of the capital. There the imperial general, considering himself firmly established, made many regulations for internal administration, and also proclaimed the Mahometan religion. Measures were taken for keeping the roads open, and for supplying the army with provisions; and, as the season was now changing, he resolved, when the inundations subsided, to put his troops in motion to extirpate the rajah and those adherents who had escaped. The conquest of Assam extended to a large portion of the country, for all the villages of Decancole submitted to the invaders, and those of Ootrecole followed; yet it is not to be inferred that this was accomplished without loss; for the panegyrist of the general describes the country as spacious, populous, and hard to be penetrated; that it abounded in dangers; that the paths and roads were beset with difficulties; and that the obstacles to conquest were more than could be expressed. The inhabitants, he says, were enterprising, well armed, and always prepared for battle. They had lofty forts, numerously garrisoned and plentifully provided wth warlike stores; and the approach to them was opposed by thick and dangerous jungles and broad and boisterous rivers. Under these circumstances it was wonderful that the army prevailed; “but the Mussulman hordes experienced the comfort of fighting for their religion, and the blessings of it reverted to the sovereignty of his just and pious Majesty.” But the Assamese were unsubdued: the climate proved destructive to the Moguls, who were obliged to evacuate the city, and, after being harassed by the natives, to retreat from the country with diminished numbers.

Towards the earlier part of the eighteenth century, it is said that some of the Brahmins of Bengal reached Assam, desirous of introducing their religion there, where the inhabitants still had no settled faith. Amidst their exertions for this great object, they persuaded them that it would be gratifying to their deity, Brahma, if they would use salt imported from Bengal in preference to their own, which it greatly excelled. To this the sovereign consented, on condition that it should be monopolized by himself, and that the vessels conveying it should not penetrate beyond the frontier; and, in consequence, forty vessels, each of from 500 to 600 tons burden, have annually been sent thither.

About the year 1790, the kingdom was in the most distracted state from a widely extended insurrection, followed by the absolute destruction of many important places; and, in the year 1793, a detachment of British troops was sent to aid the restoration of the rajah, who seems to have been dethroned by the insurgents. This detachment gained the capital, and completely effected their object; and the rajah was so sensible of the assistance he had received, that he immediately concluded a commercial treaty very favourable to the British interests. It was probably on this occasion that Dr Wade visited Assam, and that Mr Wood, of the engineers, constructed a map of a considerable portion of the country. Either this or another was transmitted to Britain, we have understood, to be deposited in the Advocates’ Library at Edinburgh; but, after its arrival, it unfortunately never reached the place of its destination, which is much to be regretted, since the geography and history of the country are both so little known.