BANFFSHIRE, a county in the north of Scotland, bounded by the Moray Frith on the north, by Aberdeenshire on the south and south-east, and by the county of Moray on the west, is situated in the 58th degree of north latitude, and between 2° 13' and 3° 40 ’ west longitude. The number of acres which the shire contains, has never been properly ascertained. The general aspect of Banffshire is various. The lower district, which is divided from the upper by a chain of hills, is a fine open country, of a rich, deep, and highly cultivated soil, agreeably diversified with gentle risings and young plantations. The upper district is mountainous, and at a distance wears a bleak, forbidding appearance. But the scene changes on a nearer approach. Extensive farms are fourid embossomed in its fertile and well-cultivated glens. Some of the mountains are covered with trees in full luxuriance of growth; some presentingabeautiful intermixture of rock an d copses, while others are covered with brown heath. The Spey flows along its western, and the Deveron along its eastern boundary; and both yield a considerable revenue from their salmonfishings. The principal mountains of Banffshire are Bel-rinnes, Knockhill, and Cairngorm, the last of which rises to an elevation of 4050 feet above the level of the sea. In the lower part of the country, towards the coast, there are several elegant mansions, of which the most conspicuous are Duff-House, Cullen-House, Park-House, Forglen House, and Gordon Castle. These, and a number of gentlemen’s seats in the interior, are surrounded by extensive policies or ornamental plantations, very tastefully laid out. The natural woods are inconsiderable both in extent and value.

Many of the mountains are caped with moss, regularly stratified, and contain the remains of plants, trees, and vegetables. Some there are, the tops of which are formed of granite, protruding through thick beds of gneiss passing into mica slate. The prevailing rocks throughout the county are granite, gneiss, graywaké, graywaké slate, quartz rock, sienite, trap rock, old red sandstone, mica slate, clay slate, primitive, transition, and new formation limestone. The direction of the strata is from north-east to south-west. Few of the primitive rocks appear stratified. The hill of Durn, adjacent to Portsoy, is wholly r composed of stratified quartz, which appears to lie on a thick bed of gneiss; and along the eastern side of the hill there runs from Portsoy, in a south-westerly direction, a vein of beautiful serpentine. The bold and precipitous rock of Troup Head, 470 feet in height, consists of graywaké. At the farm house of Findon, near Gamrie, in a bed of breccia, composed of angular pieces of clay slate resting on the new red sand stone, an extensive deposit of petrified fish or ichthyolites has lately been discovered inclosed in calcareous nodules. To the westward of Whitehi∏s there is a bed of transition limestone, alternating wth graywaké, graywaké slate, and coarse gritstone, imbedded in a limestone paste; and about a mile to the westward of Banff is a bed of blue clay, containing a variety of organic remains. This bed of clay extends for many miles both along the coast and up the country. To the eastward of Portsoy is found a bed of that peculiar structure called graphic granite; and near Keith is a vein ofsulphuret of antimony, embedded in fluor spar. Rock-crystals and topazes are found on the mountains of Cairngorm, and other parts of that elevated range which forms the southwestern boundary of Banffshire. Cudbear, or archil, a vegetable substance, is found growing on rocky situations.
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The agriculture of Banffshire is conducted upon the newest and most approved principles. The soil, though varying even inadjacentfields, isin general rich and productive, yielding heavy crops of wheat, barley, oats, andother grain; and the grass and green crops are equally abundant. The quantity of soil under cultivation has never been properly ascertained, but it may safely be affirmed that the amount now under the plough is more than double of what it was thirty years ago. ’ The extent of the farms is in general from 150 to 200 arable acres, independently of moorland and pasture grounds. The rent per acre, at an average, may be stated at 22s., and the duration of leases at nineteen years; although there are some individuals who possess on liferent, and a few who hold leases for a longer term. The whole of the farms, even the smallest pendicles, are under regular rotations of cropping, generally a five or seven course shift. The fields are well laid out and subdivided, and properly cleaned and manured, for which last purpose large quantities of lime and bone dust are annually imported; and, lately, some experiments have been tried with prepared kelp as a substitute for bone dust, which can now be but partially procured, and at a very high price. The ridges are all straight, and the fields, at least many of them,' are inclosed with stone dykes or other fences; the swamps and wet grounds have also been drained and cultivated, so as to effect a total revolution in the ancient modes of agriculture within the county. The cattle and stock of every description are of the finest breeds which can be procured, and are sought after by the dealers at home, as well as conveyed by sea to London, where they always bring the highest prices of any in the market.

This district was much indebted to one of the earls of Findlater, who, as early as the year 1754, not only introduced and exemplified on some of his own farms the most approved practices then known in England, but held out liberal encouragement to bis tenants to follow his example. Green crop cultivation, however, did not become general till after the commencement of the late war with France. Latterly, improvement has been promoted by agricultural associations, and the annual premiums held out for the best specimens of live stock, and the best productions of the soil. The valued rent is L.79,200 Scots; but the real gross rent of land or of houses has never been ascertained.

The entailed properties, comprehending almost the whole lands within the county, are fettered with restrictions and limitations which prove a very heavy grievance to the tenant, checking industry and improvements, and limiting the duration of the lease frequently to a very short 1 period. Astricted multures still prevail in all their feudal rigour, and are particularly oppressive.

An iron-foundery was established at Banff in 1825, and has proved of great utility, particularly to agriculture, in supplying the requisite machinery and implements. There are also a number of extensive distilleries which produce excellent spirits, and a small bleachfield at Cullen. The shipping trade is carried on at the ports of Banff, Macduff, Portsoy, and Gardenstown. The imports consist of coals, iron, merchant goods, staves, salt, and other necessaries for the herring fishery. The exports from June 1830 to June 1831 consisted, of grain 65,000 quarters, of meal 740 tons, of black cattle 276 head, and upwards of 1000 swine, besides some horses and other live stock, all principally for the London market. Salmon and other fish are also exported in considerable quantities; and a very extensive connection has been formed with various ports of the southern shores of the Baltic. The herrings are generally exported to Hamburg and Ireland. In 1815 there were only two boats of fifteen tons each employed in the herring trade, but in 1826 they amounted to 470 of from fifteen to twenty-five tons each, and the value of the fish caught was estimated at nearly L.100,000 sterling. Cod, ling, haddocks, and other white fish, are also caught in considerable quantities, and to a large amount in value.

Banffshire was the scene of many bloody conflicts between the Scots and their Danish invaders, but details of these encounters belong more properly to the history of Scotland. From 1624 to 1645 it was the theatre of almost incessant struggles. During that period, the outrages of the Covenanters, combined with the frequent conflicts of the clans, w ere productive of serious evils. Several remains of antiquity are pointed out in different parts of the country. Of these the churches of Mortlach and Gamrie are perhaps the most remarkable. Ruins of castles and traces of encampments are often to be met with, and a great number of cairns and tumuli are also found. Amongst the distinguished men which Banffshire has produced may be mentioned Archbishop Sharpe of St Andrew's; George Baird, distinguished for his services as sheriff of the county during the time of the Covenanters; Thomas Rudiman the grammarian; Walter Goodall, the defender of Mary Queen of Scots; James Ferguson the astronomer; Dr Gregory, and his brother James Gregory.

The population, as taken under the acts of 1811,1821, and 1831, is given in the table below.
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