HORTICULTURE.

Horticulture is that branch of rural economy which consists in the formation and culture of Gardens. Its results are culinary vegetables, fruits, and flowers. On one side it is allied to Agriculture, from which, however, it is distinguished by the nature of its products, and by the smaller extent and greater complexity of its operations; on the other side, in its processes of embellishment, it approaches the arts of the Landscape Artist and the Forester, from which, however, it also retires in the comparative minuteness of its details. Respecting the former of these departments of rural art, considered as distinct from Horticulture, information may be obtained in the article on Gardening.

Like other arts, Horticulture borrows its principles from the general sciences. To Botany it is beholden for the facts and theories of vegetable physiology; to Chemistry for assistance in reference to soils, manures, and artificial heat; and to Meteorology for a knowledge of many circumstances which very materially affect the labours of the gardener. On these subjects, with which the philosophical horticulturist will not fail to make himself familiar, we refer to the various scientific articles in this Encyclopaedia. It is very desirable that such information should be extensively diffused among practical men; as it is only from this quarter that much improvement, in our present state of knowledge, can be expected. Truth, however, obliges us to admit, that gardening has been most successfully practised, when treated as an empirical art. Few of those who are minutely conversant with its numerous manipulations have undergone such an intellectual training as to enable them to wield general principles with effect. Many who are not inexpert or unsuccessful while they follow the routine practice (a practice, be it remembered, founded on long experience) egregiously fail, when, with imperfect information, or ill-advised ingenuity, they endeavour to strike out new paths for themselves. The object of the art, too, limits the application of the deductions of science. Its whole business consists in the imitation of Nature, whose processes may indeed be, in some measure, originated, as when a seed is inserted in the ground, or modified, as in the artificial training of fruit-trees, but which may not be entirely controlled, much less counteracted. The principle of vegetable life will not endure interference beyond a certain point, and our theoretical views should be so directed as to interfere with it as little as possible. Observation and experiment are the grand means by which the art has arrived at its present state of advancement: at the same time it is obvious, that an enlarged acquaintance with science will aid us in imitating the processes of nature, will guide the hand of experiment, suggest contrivances, and enable us to guard against error; and above all, will tend to dispel those prejudices which practitioners in the empirical arts are so prone to cherish.

Gardening, Mr Walpole observes, was probably one of the first arts which succeeded to that of building houses, and naturally attended property and individual possession. Culinary, and afterwards medicinal herbs, were objects in request by every head of a family; and it became convenient to have them within reach, without searching for them in woods, in meadows, or on mountains, as they were wanted. Separate enclosures for rearing herbs were soon found expedient. Fruits were in the same predicament; and those most in use, or the cultivation of which required particular attention, must early have entered into and extended the domestic enclosure. Such may be deemed the leading heads of a conjectural history of the art; and indeed, if we would ascend into remote antiquity, we can have recourse only to conjecture, for although, in the Sacred Writings, and in the earliest profane authors, allusions to gardens occur, little is told us either of their productions or their culture. At the close of the Roman commonwealth, the catalogue of fruits had become considerable, the principles of grafting and pruning were understood and practised, and shortly afterwards, even artificial heat seems to have been partially employed. With the decline of the empire, horticulture also declined or became stationary; but at the revival of learning, it arose from the slumber of the dark ages, encumbered, it is true, by the dreams of the alchymists, the restrictions of unlucky days, and the imaginary effects of lunar influence. From these fetters it was ere long emancipated by the diffusion of knowledge, and it has hitherto kept pace with the general improvement of society. Modified by climate and other circumstances in different countries, its advancement has been various; but nowhere has it made greater progress than amongst ourselves. Introduced into England at an early period, gardening became conspicuous in the reign of Henry VIII. and his immediate successors, and met with considerable attention during the reigns of the Stuarts. In the first half of the eighteenth century, Miller, Switzer, and others, laboured with success in improving the operations, and unfolding the principles, of the art; and these were succeeded by Abercrombie, Speedily, and a host of writers, who added greatly to our stores of knowledge. In 1805 was established the Horticultural Society of London, which was soon followed by the institution of the Caledonian Horticultural Society at Edinburgh; and in their train have sprung up a multitude of provincial gardening societies, all of which have given an impulse to the public mind, and stimulated the exertions of individuals. Experimental gardens have been formed, in which, amongst other things, the important work of distinguishing and classifying the numerous varieties of our hardy fruits has been zealously prosecuted. The mass of information now collected is immense, and the labour expended in its difiusion unwearied. Judging from the literature of the day, and passing downward from the sumptuous Transactions of the metropolitan Society, through the numerous periodicals, to the penny information for the people, we shall scarcely find any art, however nationally important, which receives more attention, or on which the liberality of the wealthy is more abundantly bestowed. The public nursery-gardens, too, both at London and elsewhere, establishments intimately connected with our subject, and which, in a manufacturing nation, are not the least wonderful amongst the applications of skill and capital, prove the extent and perfection to which gardening has advanced. Although, however, there is not, perhaps, in the annals of invention, a chapter of higher interest than the history of Horticulture, our limits do not permit us to enter further into details: we must therefore refer to Loudon’s Encyclopaedia of Gardening, a work which, for minuteness of exposition, and copiousness of illustration, is unrivalled amongst the didactic treatises of our times.

We intend to confine our attention almost exclusively to the horticulture of Great Britain, and we shall endeavour to give such an exhibition of its practice as may suit the middle districts of the island. The objects of culture are so numerous, the operations so varied, and the materials so copious, that, in presenting what can claim only the character of a sketch of our subject, it will be necessary to follow a plan of selection. It would be unprofitable to de [7:11:631] scribe all the methods of culture in practice; we shall therefore notice such only as are deemed the best.

The subject naturally divides itself into the Fruit, the Kitchen, and the Flower Garden; but as the first two generally occupy the same locality, or are intermingled with each other, and as every thing connected with their formation is inseparably involved, we shall, to some extent, take them together. Then will follow the Flower-Garden; and by way of conclusion to the whole, a short Calendar.

FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

In this department are cultivated the articles which are necessary for the supply of the kitchen and the dessert table. It is inclosed within walls, not only for the sake of security and general shelter, but, in our climate, as affording the means of cultivating the finer fruits, by training the trees close to the walls. It is furnished with hot-houses, melon-frames, and similar contrivances, by which the fruits of other climates are subjected to an artificially increased temperature, and thus brought to maturity. The size of a walled garden ought evidently to bear some proportion to the splendour of the mansion-house of which it is an appendage, to the extent of the park, and the means of the family. Where the demand is large, such a garden should comprehend from four to six acres. In many places this extent wall not afford an adequate supply of culinary vegetables, but some of the bulkier crops, such as pease, potatoes, and turnips, may be grown in the exterior fields. From an acre and a half to three acres may be regarded as forming a respectable garden; but, within the limits already mentioned, it is better, in the first formation of a garden, to enclose too large a space than too small a one.

The productiveness of such an establishment will depend chiefly upon the natural fertility of the soil, and the eligibility of the situation, but also in a considerable degree upon the labour expended upon the culture. Where a garden is underworked (to use a gardener’s phrase), the finer products must necessarily be scanty, for whatever requires care, requires time; and it not unfrequently happens that a gardener fails in some crop, not from defect of method or skill, but because he has not been able to overtake it, or has been obliged to make his preparations in a hurried and insufficient manner. All circumstances being favourable, a British garden is perhaps unrivalled in fertility by any cultivated spot in the world. A copious supply of esculents flows into the kitchen at all seasons; and after a rich abundance of fruit has been afforded during summer and autumn, the winter stores may be easily prolonged till the early forced fruits come again to the table.

We shall first treat of the general properties and appendages of the Fruit and Kitchen Garden.

Situation. — The position of the garden in relation to the mansion-house, properly belongs to the province of Landscape-Gardening, as it obviously should be in keeping with the general features of the park scenery. It may, however, be remarked, that, as a place of interest to every well-informed proprietor, it should be so near as to be conveniently accessible on foot, probably within little more than a quarter of a mile; while it should be so distant as to avoid the possibility of offence arising from gardening operations and the resort of workmen. A position on one side of the house is to be preferred, unless a much more eligible one occur in the rear. Wherever it be placed, it should be so masked by evergreen shrubs and trees, as not to be visible from the principal lawns, or from the walks in the shrubbery and flower-garden. If the surface of the domain be undulated, the garden is almost unavoidably seen from some point or other, and the coup-d’oeil of the enclosure walls is apt to present the idea of a large box; an unpleasant impression, which should by all means be avoided or lessened by plantations judiciously placed.

Ground possessing a gentle inclination toward the south is desirable for a garden. On such a slope effectual draining is easily accomplished, and the greatest possible benefit is derived from the sun’s rays. The lower part of a gentle declivity is perhaps to be preferred; but a very low situation should scarcely be chosen, as the subsoil is apt to be damp, fogs often brood over such spots, and frosts are more injurious there than on higher ground. It is beneficial to have an open exposure towards the east and west, so that the garden may enjoy the full benefit of the morning and evening sun.

Shelter is absolutely necessary; and that afforded by natural objects, such as rising grounds, is the best. Where this is wanting, its place should be supplied by masses of forest-trees, disposed at such a distance, however, as not to shade the wall-trees, perhaps not nearer than 150 feet. The purpose of such screens is to break the force of the winds; and as every situation is, in this respect, liable to some peculiarities occasioned by the general structure of the country, or by the reverberation of aerial currents from adjacent eminences, these peculiarities should be carefully observed and obviated. The idea that crowded plantations increase the warmth of a place is often fallacious; and, in the opinion of many, they do more harm than good, by encouraging blight. The trees employed may be of a varied character, but lime-tree, horse-chestnut, beech, sycamore, weeping birch, and the smooth-leaved wych elm, should prevail. There may also be a proportion of evergreen trees, such as firs, pines, hollies, and evergreen oaks. When these masses of wood are planted at the time the garden is formed, poplars, larches, and other fast-growing trees, should be thickly intermixed to act as temporary trees and nurses, which are afterwards to be weeded out, as the permanent trees more slowly advance to maturity.

A supply of water is equally necessary. Where a streamlet can be made to flow through the garden, and keep a central pond constantly full, it will conduce both to utility and amenity. If this cannot be effected, a pipe of sufficient caliber should be led from some neighbouring pond to the hot-houses, and to two or three different stations in the garden. Well or spring water should be exposed in tanks or reservoirs to the action of the sun and air, when it becomes comparatively soft and salubrious for plants. As rain water is found better than any other for this purpose, all that can be collected should be stored and kept for use.

Connected with the situation is the approach to the garden from without, a matter requiring some taste and contrivance. If possible, it should be from the south, when the range of glazed houses will be seen at once, and produce a pleasing effect. Sometimes a lateral entrance is very suitable, leading, it may be supposed, from the flower-garden through an intermediate shrubbery, and coming upon the hot-houses in flank. It is delightful to be introduced at once and by surprise into a Slip, as it is called, where on the one hand there is an extent of wall covered with luxuriant fruit-trees in full bearing, and on the other is displayed a rich collection of ornamental shrubs and large perennial border-flowers.

Form. — The form of a garden, it is obvious, must chiefly be determined by the nature of the situation and the taste of the proprietor. In general, gardens are either squares or oblongs, chiefly, it is presumed, because walls of this configuration contain the greatest space within the least perimeter, a result of very questionable value. They may be of any form, with this limitation, that attention should be paid to facilitating the transport of manures and garden products, for when the grounds are straggling, or complicated[7:11:632] in structure, the labour of cultivation is much increased.

Exterior Fence —Most gardens are encircled by an outer boundary, formed by a sunk wall or ha-ha, surmounted by an invisible wire fence to exclude hares, or by a hedge and paling. Occasionally this sunk wall is placed on the exterior of the screen plantations, and walks lead out among the trees, to give favourable views of the adjacent country. Although the interior garden receives its form from the walls, the ring fence and plantations may be adapted to the shape and surface of the ground. The spaces between the outer fence and the walls are, as already noticed, called Slips, and, where circumstances render it eligible, a considerable extent of ground is sometimes included, and appropriated to the culture of small fruits and vegetables. If possible, the gardener’s house should be situate here, as being convenient for him, and as tending to scare depredators.

Walls —For the production of the finer fruits, such as peaches, apricos, hardy grapes, and most of the delicate French and Flemish pears, the aid of walls is indispensable in our climate. Indeed, in the northern and higher parts of the country, where there is no walled garden, the dessert can seldom consist of more than small fruits, and ill-ripened apples and pears. So valuable in this respect are walls, that it is perhaps a matter of surprise that they have not been multiplied by the erection of slight and cheap structures, such as are common in the peach-gardens in France. The north wall having, in the interior, a south aspect, is of course appropriated to the more tender kinds of fruit-trees; here, it is generally estimated, they enjoy an increased temperature equal to 7° of south latitude; the east and west walls are set apart for fruits of a somewhat hardier character; while the inner face of the south wall, having a north aspect, is well adapted for retarding Morelia cherries and currants.

The north wall is generally placed nearly perpendicular to the meridian, that is, so as to have the sun directly in front at 12 o’clock. Minute directions have indeed been given to make it face towards 11 or 11∣ a. μ., on the ground that thus it would sooner meet the rays of the morning sun; but it does not appear that this arrangement has been the subject of direct experiment, and certainly the arguments, by which the superiority of this aspect is supported, are far from being satisfactory. The east and west walls are commonly placed at right-angles'to that already mentioned, but they may follow the shape of the ground, and if this slope to the south, they descend with the declivity. The south enclosure wall, as affording on the outside a valuable aspect to the south, is deserving of particular attention. It is presumed that the walls are to be covered, both within and without, with trees trained en espalier.

Different portions of the enclosure wall are always built of different heights, and this variation of height is the more necessary, when the ground approaches to a level. In such a situation, and when the enclosure does not exceed two acres, the north wall may rise to the elevation of 14 feet; the walls on the cast and west may be two feet lower, and the south wall need not exceed 10 feet. In larger gardens, the walls are generally made proportionally higher: on the north, perhaps 16 feet, on the cast and west 14, and on the south 12. In several excellent Scottish gardens planned by Mr John Hay, such as that at Castle Semple, a piece of building is made to project diagonally outwards from the corners where the walls meet at right-angles. This projection is 16 or 17 feet in length. It serves to strengthen the fabric, and, at the same time, breaks the force of the winds which sweep around walled gardens.

Walls inclined to the horizon have been recommended by Desaguliers and others; but, independently of the theoretical objections which might be urged against them, and which, in actual practice, would probably counterbalance their supposed advantages, they must be extremely inconvenient from their bulk, or the space which they occupy; and hence they have never come into general use.

Bricks afford the best and the most kindly material for garden-walls. Being bad conductors of caloric, they accumulate heat; they do not retain moisture, and, by their numerous interstices, they furnish every facility for nailing in the twigs of the fruit-trees. Where freestone (that is, sandstone capable of being easily dressed) is abundant, the exterior wall is often formed of coursed masonry, and the interior is faced with bricks. The foundation should, if possible, be formed of stone. Whinstone (that is, either the greenstone or the basalt of mineralogists) forms an excellent material for fruit-walls. It is susceptible of a neat hammer-dressing; it does not readily imbibe moisture, and therefore is not much cooled by evaporation; and being of a very dark colour, it absorbs more solar heat during sunshine than a lighter surface, while at night the radiation from both is nearly the same. Part of the principal fruitwall of the Experimental Garden at Edinburgh is built of greenstone; and the plants trained against it have evinced, by their growth, that they enjoy a superior temperature.

For the preservation of the walls, a coping is necessary; and it seems a matter of indifference whether it be formed of stones with a rounded surface, or of flat pavement, or of tiles. Probably it should not project more than an inch, though some contend for a larger measure, on the ground of its preventing to some extent the radiation of heat from the tree towards the sky in clear nights, and affording shelter from the perpendicular deposition of dew. Temporary copings of wood are often adopted, and are found to answer every good purpose. They are put on in spring, to protect the tender blossom and embryo fruit from the hoarfrosts, and when danger is past are removed, to give free access to the genial showers and sunshine of summer and autumn.

Hot Walls — A considerable proportion of the walls of every good garden, especially in the north, should be constructed with flues, to supply the means of applying artificial heat. The additional expense is trifling; and in colder situations, the aid of this species of wall is nearly indispensable for the regular ripening of peaches, grapes, and figs. The application of fire-heat for a few weeks in spring will secure the setting of the fruit, and the same operation continued for a short time in autumn will suffice to ripen it, and also to prepare the young wood for the next year. The flues may be about twenty inches deep, and should make as many horizontal turns as the height of the wall will allow. One furnace will be enough for a surface fifty feet in length. When the boundary walls do not furnish room sufficient for the production of the finer fruits, one or perhaps two middle walls are built across the garden from east to west, of the same height as the side walls, to which they nearly approach. They are generally ílued, and are sometimes covered, on their southern aspect, with glazed frames, either fixed or moveable. These cross walls add greatly to the capabilities of a fruit-garden, and are useful in affording additional shelter to the small fruits and crops of vegetables.

Espalier-Rails. — Subsidiary to walls as a means of training fruit-trees, espalier rails were formerly much employed, and they still prevail in many parts of the country. In their simplest form, they are merely a row of slender stakes of ash or Spanish chestnut, driven into the ground, and connected by a slight rod or fillet at top. In some gardens, the perpendicular rods are fastened into two horizontal rails, supported by strong posts, which are battened into stones. Cast-iron rails have also been proposed, J he frame-work is sometimes inclined to the horizon, and sometimes flat like a table, which last, when there is room, ⅛ [7:11:633]perhaps the best arrangement. Espalier rails, especially the more elaborate sorts, are expensive and formal, and therefore in many instances have given place to dwarf standard trees, which are equally productive, and far more elegant in their appearance.

Soils. — It is of great importance that the ground selected for a garden should be naturally of a good quality. A hazel-coloured loam, of a light or sandy texture, is well adapted for most crops, whether of fruits or culinary vegetables. As it is more easy to render a light soil sufficiently retentive, than to make a tenacious clay sufficiently porous, a light soil is preferable to one which is excessively stiff and heavy. It is advantageous to possess a variety of soils; and if the garden be on a slope, it will often be practicable to render the upper part light and dry, while the lower remains of a heavier and damper nature. The soil should be good to the depth of two feet, and any necessary additional deepening by manures or otherwise, should not be neglected. The nature of the subsoil demands particular attention. If it be strongly impregnated with metallic substances, or composed of cold till, it will prove pernicious to the roots of fruit-trees, and will scarcely admit of a remedy. A decomposing rock, or a bed of sand, is preferable. Perhaps the best of all is a dry bed of clay, overlying sandstone, which crops out within the enclosure. If the inferior strata be retentive, and if water lodge in any part of the garden, draining should be carefully executed, so as to carry off the superfluous moisture.

Preparatory to the distribution of the several parts of a garden, it is proper that the ground be trenched to the depth of two feet at least; but the deeper the better. In this operation all stones larger than a man’s fist are taken out, and all roots of trees, and of perennial weeds, are carefully extracted and cleared away. When the soil is not tolerably good to the depth of two feet, it will often be proper to remove a portion of the subsoil; and its place shoulclbe made up by a proportional quantity of turf or fresh loam from the fields. If the subsoil be gravel, and the upper layer sandy, the additional earth should be clayey loam, or the scourings of ditches; but if the original body of soil be of a compact texture, the materials introduced should be mixed with sand, marl, and other light opening substances. When the whole ground has been thus treated, a moderate liming will, in general, be useful. After this, supposing the work to have occupied most of the summer, the whole may be laid up in ridges, to expose as great a surface as possible to the action of the winter’s frost. The draining, trenching, and other operations here recommended, will unavoidably be attended with considerable expense, and this expense will not immediately be followed by any perceptible beneficial result. The lapse of a few years, however, will develope the vast advantages of such a mode of procedure, which, if it have been neglected at first, cannot be practised at a subsequent period but with indifferent success, and not without a great increase of care and labour.

Manures. — In enumerating the general appendages of gardens, it may be proper to say something of manures, but we do not consider it necessary to enter into minute details on this subject. Where there are extensive melon grounds, an abundance of stable and other litter is required; and this substance, in its partially decomposed state, as afforded by exhausted hotbeds, supplies a manure well adapted to aid the processes of vegetation. Decayed leaves, which are plentiful where there are extensive pleasure-grounds, also form an excellent manure for many purposes. Some practical men prefer composts to simple dungs, or such substances as have undergone fermentation. For fruit-trees turf from rich pastures, mixed with vegetable earth, is perhaps the best stimulant which can be applied. It is questionable whether any sort of trees are permanently benefited by the application of crude manures to their roots; and it is certain that many have been irremediably injured by this practice. But whatever caution may be necessary in their use, the prudent horticulturist will find it expedient to pay particular attention to the collection of manures. He cannot go on long without them; for ground which is exhausted by continual cropping, requires to be continually repaired.

Internal Arrangement of Gardens A considerable por tion of the north wall, or of the cross-wall, is covered in front with glazed structures, called hothouses, or forcing houses. To these the houses for ornamental plants are sometimes attached; but the last are more appropriately situate in the flower garden, when that forms a separate department. It is well, however, that every other thing connected with the forcing, whether of fruits or flowers, should be concentrated in one place. The melonry and other smaller pine-pits, should occupy some well-sheltered spot in the slips, or on one side of the garden, and, if possible, in the neighbourhood of the stable-yard. Adjoining to this may be found a suitable site for the compost ground, in which various kinds of soils may be kept in store, and composts may be prepared.

Extensive gardens, in exposed situations, are often divid- * ed into compartments by hedges, so disposed as to break the force of winds. Where these are required to be lofty yet narrow, holly, yew, or beech is preferred; but if space be no object, common laurel-bay is one of the most beautiful plants that can be employed for this purpose. Smaller hedges may be formed of evergreen privet, or of tree-box. These subordinate divisions, though often neglected, are worthy of attention; for, in addition to shelter, they furnish shade, which, at certain seasons, is peculiarly valuable.

The laying out of the area of the garden in walks> borders, and compartments, may be regulated very much by the shape of the ground, and the taste of the owner. In general, a gravel walk six or eight feet broad, is led quite around the garden, both within and without the walls. A walk of similar dimensions is often constructed in the centre of the garden in the direction of the glazed houses, and this is sometimes crossed by another at right-angles. At times these walks are led diagonally from the corners. The space between the wall and the walk that skirts it, is called the wall-border, and is commonly from fifteen to twenty feet broad. On the interior of the walk there is usually another border five or six feet broad, which is generally occupied by fruit-trees trained to espalier rails, or by dwarf standard trees. The middle part of the garden is divided into rect·· angular compartments for the raising of the various culinary crops. These compartments may be divided by rows of moderate-sized fruit-trees, or of gooseberry and currant bushes. It is advantageous to have several small beds, in which to cultivate the less bulky articles, such as basil, sage, tarragon, &c. which, in large spaces, are apt to be overlooked or neglected.

Wall-Borders. — The preparation of borders for fruit-trees is a matter of the utmost importance, and no pains should be spared in this essential operation. Where borders are not in good condition, the care and toil of the most experienced gardener will avail but little to the production of fruit. The first object is effectual draining. The next, if the subsoil be indifferent, is the formation of a bottom impervious to the roots of trees. This is sometimes done with stone-shivers and lime-rubbish, or with coal-ashes and clay, compacted by treading with the feet, and beating with the back of a spade, Loudon recommends successive layers an inch thick of clean gravel, pulverized earth, and then gravel, well watered and firmly compressed by means of a heavy roller. Good soil to the depth of two feet and a half, or three feet, is placed over this impervious bottom. Three-fourths rich loam, and one-fourth light sandy earth, form a mixture congenial to the generality of fruit-trees, [7:11:634]In selecting the soil, regard may be had to the particular trees which are to cover each portion of the wall. Thus a heavy soil may be allotted to pears and plums; loam of a medium character, inclining to be strong, to peaches; and a lighter earth for cherries and figs. Above all, care should be taken to render the borders sufficiently rich and substantial. Whilst every skilful horticulturist can in various ways reduce the luxuriance of his trees, nothing can compensate for extreme poverty in the soil. The same principle will dictate moderation in cropping wall borders with culinary vegetables; a practice in which gardeners are apt to exceed, from a desire to furnish very early crops of pease, turnips, cabbage, or potatoes.

Orchards. — In most large gardens dwarf standard trees may be planted, sufficient to afford a supply of fruit for an ordinary family. Where this is not the case, it is desirable that there should be a separate orchard. A situation similar to that of a garden, and the same preparatory operations, are necessary: but a simple hedge will, in most situations, suffice for a fence. The trees may here be on free stocks and high standards, and the taller growing pears and apples are best suited for a large orchard. Thorseby in his Diary, under date of March 1702, mentions, as a novelty, an orchard “kept in the new order of dwarf trees,” evidently intimating that dwarf standards were introduced from Holland by the Prince of Orange at the time of the Revolution. When an additional supply of culinary vegetables is required, they may be cultivated in the orchard; and then the trees should be planted in rows, with considerable intervals between the rows, otherwise the close quincunx order is preferable. In any circumstances, the trees should not be choked up with currant and gooseberry bushes, as is common in market gardens. On the margin of the orchard may be planted Walnuts, Chestnuts, Filberds, and any other fruit-trees less commonly cultivated, or the fruit of which is not much in demand. The whole should be effectually screened from the prevailing winds, by rows of forest trees, at a sufficient distance, however, to prevent shading, or the robbing of the soil.

FRUIT GARDEN.

We shall first direct our attention to the culture of hardy fruits, or of such as, in our climate, do not, to an extensive degree, require the assistance of artificial heat. But before proceeding to a minute detail of the management of the different varieties, it may be proper to attend to some of the operations which are common to all.

Preliminary Operations.

These may be classed under the heads Propagation, Planting, Training, and the Protection of Blossom.

Propagation by Seed Although fruit-trees are furnish ed with all the natural means of reproduction, it is not in general expedient to attempt to propagate them by the sowing of seed. This method is found to be equally tedious and precarious, requiring the labour of a good many years, and very seldom producing an exact copy of the fruits from which the seeds are taken. All our present admired fruits are seminal varieties obtained from the wild inhabitants of the forests; they have been trained into an artificial condition; and when sown, seem to have a tendency to resume their original constitution. In the peach-orchards of America, for instance, which are planted with the kernels of choice sorts, there are seldom more than a few trees affording fruit fit for the table: the produce of the majority is so worthless, that it is employed for feeding the hogs. Notwithstanding this embarrassing circumstance, there are some considerations which render this mode of propagation at once interesting and important to horticulturists. It is the only way by which we can procure new kinds to supply the place of those which are falling into decay; and it is a great means of adapting the tender sorts to the rigour of our climate. It is well known that some of the favourite cider apples of the seventeenth century have become extinct, and others are fast verging into decrepitude; and hence the conclusion has been drawn, that all our present fruits, as they arc artificial in their constitution, are also limited in their duration. Each variety springing from an individual at first, however extended by grafting or budding, partakes of the qualities of the individual: and where the original is old, there is inherent in the derivatives the tendency to decay incident to old age. It is assumed that all the individual trees of any given variety, such as the golden pippin, or the grey leadington, are in a lax sense equivalent to one individual. By careful management, the health and life of this composite individual may be prolonged; and grafts inserted into vigorous stocks, and nursed in favourable situations, may long survive their parent tree; still there is a sure progress towards extinction, and the only renewal of the individual, the only true reproduction, is by sowing seed. It is admitted by those who have paid attention to the subject, that this curious principle of vegetable economy holds true, at least so far as regards fruit-trees.

Sir Knight, to whom this ingenious theory is due, conceived the idea of supplying the lack of old varieties by semination. It further occurred to him, that advantage might be taken of that tendency which plants exhibit on repeated sowings, to adapt themselves to the climates in which they are raised, so that trees of warmer countries may thus become habituated to colder regions. He therefore devoted much of his attention to the production of improved and robust varieties; and his zeal and labours have been rewarded by the Acton Scott Peach, the Ingestrie and Downton Apples, and many others, in almost every sort of hardy fruit. Mr Knight entertained the opinion, deduced, we may presume, from experiment, that more is to be expected from hybrid varieties, than from the mere reproduction of old kinds; he therefore had recourse to the nice operation of dusting the pollen of one kind on the pistil of another. He opened the unexpanded blossom of the variety destined to be the female parent of the expected progeny, and, with a pair of small-pointed scissors, cut away all the stamens, while the anthers were yet unripe, taking care to leave the style and the stigma uninjured. When the female blossom, thus prepared, naturally expanded, the full blo l wn blossoms of the other variety destined to be the male parent were applied. Mr Knight has often remarked in the progeny a strong prevalence of the constitution and habits of the female parent: in this country, therefore, in experimenting on pears, the pollen of the more delicate French kinds, such as crasannc and chaumontelle, should be dusted upon the flowers (always deprived of stamens) of the muirfowl egg, the grey achan, the green yair, or others, that are hardy, or of British origin.

As this is a subject of interest, we may state some of the precautions adopted by Mr Knight and his followers, in conducting their experiments. It is, in the first place, a rule to employ seeds of the finest kinds of fruit, and to take them from the largest, ripest, and best-flavoured specimens of that fruit. When Mr Knight wished to procure some of the old apples in a healthy and renovated stifte, he prepared stocks of such good sorts as could be propagated from cuttings, he planted them against a south wall in rich soil, and then grafted them with the kind required. In the following winter the young trees were taken up, their roots retrenched, and then replanted in the same place, by which mode of treatment they were thrown into bearing when only two years old. Not more than a couple of apples were allowed to remain on each tree, and these m conse[7:11:635]quence attained a larger size and more perfect maturity. The seeds were then sown, in the hope of procuring an equally excellent and more vigorous offspring. In the case of cross-impregnation, every seed, though taken from the same fruit, produces a different variety, and these varieties, as might be anticipated, prove to be of very various merit. In general those seeds are to be preferred which are plump and round. An estimate of the value of the seedlings may be formed, even during the first summer of their growth, from the resemblance they bear to those of highly cultivated and approved trees. The leaves of the promising seedlings improve in character, becoming thicker, rounder, and more downy every season. Those whose buds in the amiual wood are full and prominent, generally prove more productive than those whose buds are small and shrunk into the bark. Early flowering and hardy blossoms are desirable characters. It has been observed, that even after a seedling tree has commenced bearing, its fruit has a tendency to improve as the tree itself acquires vigour, so that, if, in the first season, there is any considerable promise, a great improvement may be expected in succeeding years.

The slowness with which seedlings reach the bearing state, has been the subject of complaint among horticulturists, and indeed is the principal reason why this mode of propagation has not been more frequently practised. According to Mr Knight, the pear requires from twelve to eighteen years to reach the age of puberty; the apple from five to twelve or thirteen years; the plum and cherry four or five; the vine three or four; the raspberry two years. The peach, he found to bear in two, three, or four years. This period, however, must depend on the soil, situation, and mode of culture. In the warm and highly manured garden of Μ. Van Mons at Brussels, (called Pépinière de la Fidélité), seedling peartrees produced fruit in considerable quantities in the sixth and seventh summers. The great means of accelerating the epoch of bearing, seems to be, to make the trees grow vigorously when young. Crude manures are indeed to be avoided; but vegetable earth, and, above all, a liberal supply of rotted turf, are wholesome and excellent stimulants. The seed-bed, and the ground on which the seedlings are transplanted, should be extremely well worked and comminuted with the spade; and should not be too much exposed to the parching rays of the sun, and the action of the wind. Great care ought to be taken to prevent the young plants from becoming stunted. In pruning, the small twigs in the interior should be removed, so as to relieve the tree from the bushy appearance which it frequently assumes. It has been recommended to transfer cions and buds of promising individuals into other trees in a bearing state. This is peculiarly advantageous with respect to the peach and other stone fruits, as it both hastens the period of puberty, and economises the space which must be occupied on the Avail.

Propagation by Cuttings. — Gooseberries, currants, figs, vines, and some others, are increased by means of cuttings. An annual shoot is taken off, along with a thin slice, or heel, as it is called, of the former year’s Avood, which is found to facilitate the production of roots. The cuttings are placed firmly in the soil, at various depths, according to their length, the buds or eyes Avhich Avould thus come beneath the surface having been previously removed. Vines are sometimes propagated from small pieces of shoots having a single bud: Avhen they have to be transmitted to a distance, an inch in length may suffice. Most of the codlin apples may be increased by cuttings; and even large branches of those Avhich produce burs, may be planted at once, with success. In all deciduous trees, the operation is most advantageously performed in winter.

Propagation by Layers. — This is not much resorted to in the fruit garden. It is occasionally employed as the means of dAvarfing trees. “Laying,” says Mr Lindley, “is nothing but striking from cuttings which are still allθAved to maintain their connexion Avith the mother plant by means of a portion at least of their stem.” The operation is performed by bending dθAvn a branch to the earth, and pinning it there with pegs. A γcav inches from the extremity a notch or slit is cut upAvards, generally from the insertion of a bud. Sometimes the shoot is pierced with a number of holes; a wire is bound round it; or even a ring of bark is removed. The object of these expedients is to retard the descending sap, and thus to promote the formation of radicles, or young roots. This is also aided by bending the branch upAvard from the point at Avhich the roots are Avant-ed; and the Avhole branch, except a few buds at the extremity, is covered with soil. The seasons best fitted for these operations, are early in spring and about midsummer, that is, before the sap begins to Aoav, and after it has completely ascended. One Avhole summer, sometimes two summers, must elapse before the layers be fully rooted.

Propagation by Grafting When a shoot or young branch of one tree is inserted into the stem or branch of another, and, by the influence of vegetation, is made to coalesce with it, the process is termed grafting. In this manner apple and pear trees, sometimes plum and cherry trees, are propagated. Our attention must be directed to the stocks into Avhich the shoots or cions, as they are called, are inserted; to the cions themselves, and to the mechanical operations employed in grafting.

The stock should be of the same genus, or, at least, of close affinity in natural family, to which the graft belongs. The following are the principal kinds of stocks, including, by anticipation, such as are used in budding. For apples, seedlings of the crab apple, layers of the doucin or paradise, and of the codlins, with cuttings of the bur-knot varieties. For pears, seedlings of the common, and wilding pear; Avith seedlings or layers of quince. For plums, seedlings of any of the common sorts, particularly the muscle, the Brussels, and the Brompton; also the Bullace plum. For cherries, seedlings of the small black cherry or gean, Prunus Avium; and, for dAvarfing, P. Mahaleb. For apricos, seedlings of the wilding aprico, Avith the muscle and Brussels plums. For peaches and nectarines, seedlings of the muscle, white pear-plum, and Damas noir plum, the almond, and the AAŮlding peach.

Stocks are commonly divided into two classes, viz. free-stocks and dwarfing stocks. The former consist of seedling plants Avhich naturally attain to the same size as the trees from Avhich the cions are taken. The latter are plants of diminutive growth, either varieties of the same species, or species of the same genus as the cion, which have a tendency to lessen the expansion of the engrafted tree. The Paradise or Doucin is the dAvarfing stock for apples, the Quince for pears, the Bullace for plums, and Prunus Mahaleb for cherries. The nature of the soil, in which the grafted trees are destined to groAV, should also have weight in determining the choice of stocks. When the garden is naturally moist, it is proper to graft pears on the quince, because this plant agrees Avith a moist soil, and at the same time serves to check the luxuriance thereby produced. In France, peaches are commonly budded on almond stocks, to adapt them to the dry soils of that country. The seeds from which stocks are to be raised, are generally soAvn in beds in March; but the germination of some kinds is promoted by placing the seed, for a time, in moist sand in a greenhouse. Next season the seedlings are transplanted into nursery rows, in which they are allowed to reach the size necessary for the various forms of fruit-trees hereafter to be mentioned.

The cion is always a portion of the Avood of the preceding year. As the diseases incident to fruit-trees are transmitted by this mode of propagation, it is desirable that the parents should be as healthy -as possible. In the shy-bear [7:11:636]ing kinds, it has been found beneficial to select shoots from the fruitful branches. The cions should be taken off some weeks before they are wanted, and half-buried in the earth, as it is conducive to success that the stock should, in forwardness of vegetation, be somewhat in advance of the graft. During winter, grafts may be brought from America, or from the Continent of Europe, if carefully wrapped up in hypnum-moss. If they have been six weeks or two months separated from the parent plant, they should be grafted low on the stock, and the earth should be ridged up around them, leaving only one bud of the cion above ground. Out of forty cions of new Flemish pears, procured by the Caledonian Horticultural Society from Brussels and Louvain, and treated in this way, only one failed.

Success in grafting depends almost entirely on accurately applying the inner bark of the cion to the inner bark of the stock, so that the sap may pass freely from the one to the other. They are therefore fitted together and held fast by a slight bandage of matting. To lessen evaporation, a portion of ductile clay is moulded around the place of junction, and is retained until it appears, from the develope-merït of leaves, that the operation has succeeded. The best season for grafting is the month of March; but it may be commenced as soon as the sap in the stock is fairly in motion, and may be continued during the first part of April.

The most usual mode of grafting is called whip-grafting, or tongue-grafting, represented in Plate CCXCHL, Fig. 8, a, a'. The top of the stock and the base of the cion are cut off obliquely at corresponding angles, as nearly as can be guessed by the eye; the tip of the stock is then cut off horizontally; next a slit is made downwards in the centre of the sloping face of the stock, and a corresponding slit upwards in the corresponding face of the cion. The tongue or upper part of this sloping base is then inserted into the cleft of the cion, and so adjusted that the inner bark may unite neatly and exactly on one side. The junction is then tied up and covered with clay. Several other methods may be mentioned, such as cleft-grafting, Plate CCXCHL, Fig. 8, b, b', in which the cion is sloped at the base, and inserted like a wedge into a cleft in the stock. Side-grafting, Plate CCXCIII., Fig. 8, d, d’, which resembles whip-grafting, but is performed on the side of the stock without heading it down. Crown-grafting, Plate CCXCIII., Fig. 8, c, c ’ , in which the cion is inserted between the bark and the wood. Grafting by approach, or marching, also resembling whip-grafting, but the cion remains attached to the parent plant. Plate CCXCIII., Fig. 8, e, e ’ .

It is evident that the method of performing the operation may be diversified to a great extent. The late Μ. Thouin of Paris described, in the Annales du Museum, nearly fifty greffes, but little practical utility results from such nice distinctions. It is of greater importance that the horticulturist should be expert in the manipulation of the more common forms, such as those above enumerated. An extensive fruit-garden requires a frequent repetition of the operation, in order to secure proper kinds, and productive branches. At Dalkeith Park, Mr Macdonald, the excellent gardener officiating there, annually inserts on his established trees numerous grafts, and by this means is enabled to overcome the disadvantages of a somewhat unfavourable situation, and to obtain abundant crops of large and beautiful fruit.

Propagation by Budding —Most kinds of fruit-trees may be propagated by budding; and there are some, such as peaches and apricos, which can scarcely be multiplied in any other manner. It consists in removing a bud with apportion of the bark from one tree, and inserting it in a slit of the bark of another tree. The season for performing this operation is in July or August, when the buds destined for tire following year are completely formed in the axils of the leaves, and when the portion of bark parts freely from the wood beneath. The buds to be preferred are those on the middle of a young shoot. There are many forms of budding, but that which is simplest, and is generally practised in this country, called Shield-budding, need alone be described. The operator should be provided with a budding-knife, in which the cutting edge of the blade is rounded off at the point, and which has a thin ivory or bone handle, like a paper-folder, for raising the bark of the stock. A horizontal or transverse incision is made in the bark quite down to the wood, and from this incision a perpendicular slit is drawn downwards, to the extent of perhaps an inch. The slit has now a resemblance to the letter T (see Plate CCXCIII., Fig. S,f,f', f") ; a bud is then cut from the tree wished to be propagated, having a portion of the wood attached to it, so that the whole may be an inch and a half long. The bit of wood is then gently withdrawn, care being taken that the bud adhere wholly to the bark or shield, as it is called. The bark on each side of the perpendicular slit being cautiously opened with the handle of the knife, the bud and shield are inserted. The upper tip of the shield is cut off horizontally, and brought neatly to fit the bark of the stock at the transverse incision. Slight ties of moist bass-matting are then applied. In about a month or six weeks the ligatures may be taken away, when, if the operation have been successful, the bud will be fresh and full, and the shield firmly united to the wood. Next spring a strong shoot is thrown out, and to this the stock is headed down in the course of the summer.

Planting. —-,After propagation, the next care is to transfer the young trees to those places, whether in the open air or against the wall, where they are to remain. It is of some importance that these situations should be considerately selected; for although all fruit-trees admit of repeated transplantation at a subsequent period, they seldom feil to exhibit injurious effects from it. Planting may be performed at any time in the beginning of winter, and in the early spring months; but it is considered that the most advantageous seasons are immediately after the fall of the leaf in autumn, and before the ascent of the sap in spring. The trees should be carefully lifted from the nursery lines, avoiding the mutilation or bruising of the roots; and, to prevent the desiccation of the fibres, they should be planted as soon as possible after being lifted. When they have to be carried to a distance, the roots should be enveloped in moist hypnum-moss. In the ground, which iš presumed to have been previously trenched or otherwise prepared, pits or holes are formed, and the soil is finely pulverized; and in these the trees are placed, their roots being spread Out and intermingled with the earth. Shallow planting is strongly recommended; two or three inches of soil being in general a sufficient covering. On filling up the hole, a surface of at least an equal size is mulched, that is, covered with dung or litter, so as to restrain evaporation, and preserve moisture. In the case of wall-trees, a space of five or six inches is usually left between the stem at the insertion of the roots and the wall, to allow for the effects of growth. To young standard trees stakes are added, to prevent their roots being ruptured by wind-waving. During the dry weather of the first summer, the trees should be watered from time to time as occasion requires.

The selection and distribution of the different kinds of fruit-trees is an important and interesting point in the formation of a garden. Regard must necessarily be had to local situation and climate, as the selection ought manifestly to be different for a garden in the south-west of England, and for one in Yorkshire or Scotland; for one near the level of the sea, and for another elevated several hundred feet. The best walls, having a south or south-east aspect, are dedicated to the grape-vine, the fig-tree, the peach, and aprico. The finer varieties of French and Flemish pears [7:11:637]require and deserve a good aspect, as also the early sorts of cherries. The later cherries, and the generality of plums, succeed very well either on an east or west aspect. In Scotland, the mulberry requires the protection of a Avail, and several of the finer apples do not arrive at perfection without it.

The wall-trees which are intended to be permanent are called dwarfs, from their being grafted near the ground. Between each of these, trees with tall stems, called riders in Scotland, are planted as temporary occupants of the upper part of the Wall. The riders should always be five or six years trained in the nursery, in order that when planted out they may come into bearing as speedily as possible. The distances at which the permanent trees are planted is to be regulated by the known mode of growth of the different sorts, and by the height of the wall. When the walls are about twelve feet high, the following average distances have been recommended :—For vines, 10 or 12 feet; peach and nectarine trees, from 15 to 20 feet; fig-trees, 20 feet at least; apricos, from 15 to 24 feet; plums and cherries, from 15 to 20 feet; pear-trees, 20 feet if on quince stocks, and 30 feet on free stocks; apple-trees, 12 feet if on paradise stocks, and 15 to 25 feet on free stocks. Where the walls are only seven or eight feet high, the distance should be increased by nearly one-fourth, as in this case the want of height must be compensated by greater breadth.

Apples and pears make the best espalier-rail trees, especially in Scotland. These should be of the more robust sorts, and should be planted at the distance of 15 or 20 feet. Cherries and plums are sometimes introduced into the espalier-rail row, but these succeed in those situations only where they would do equally well or better as standards.

In many excellent gardens, dwarf standards are preferred to espalier-rail trees. They are placed along the inner borders at 8 or 10 feet apart. When proper attention is paid to such trees, the effect is very pleasing, each being in itself a handsome object, and generally clothed with fine fruit. Where the situation is warm, and the climate favourable, a few of such of the finer pears as have hardy blossoms should be planted out in this form. Though they may fail to ripen in some seasons, they will often add greatly to the resources of the fruit-room, their produce being frequently superior in flavour to the fruit grown on walls.

Training. — Two functions belong to training,—that, namely, which modifies the form of the tree, and that which regulates the bearing wood, and consequently the supply of blossom. The latter, more accurately termed pruning, being of a varied character, will more properly fall to be considered when treating of the several fruits; at present we shall make a few remarks on the former. The essential properties of training are, that it should be simple, not requiring frequent amputation; that it should be appropriate to the growth of the tree; and that it should be such as to facilitate the production of fruit. The knife is the great instrument in training, and whoever can wield it skilfully, will have a perfect command over his trees: at the same time, it may be laid down as a maxim, that it should be used with some degree of reserve, as nothing is more prejudicial to the health and fruitfulness of all sorts of trees, than severe and injudicious cutting.

Training of Standards. — Orchard-trees are generally worked in the nurseries with stems five or six feet high. All that is necessary, in pruning trees of this sort, is merely to cut out the brandies which cross or press upon one another. Bushy heads should be thinned out, and those which are too lax cut back. Three or four leading branches may be selected, to pass ere long into boughs, and form a handsome skeleton for the tree; but it is useless to be finical in this matter, as these branches will soon grow beyond the power of the pruner, and of any artificial system which he may adopt Dwarf standards being more accessible, are more under the dominion of training. When worked on paradise stocks, they may be kept not much superior in size to gooseberry bushes, and in a state of abundant fruitfulness. The more fanciful Dutch modes of training apple-trees, in the cup-and-ball fashion, and after many other curious devices, have never been relished in Britain. In this country, they are generally allowed to grow en buisson, that is as bushes. For pears, the French forms, en pyramide, fig. 1, and en quenouille, fig. 2, are justly gaining ground.

Training of Wall-Trees. — A fruit-tree planted against a wall is evidently in a constrained and artificial situation, from which it makes continual efforts to escape. Much attention is necessary to repress this tendency, which, were it permitted to act, would disfigure the tree, and neutralize the advantages of a wall, without imparting in their place the freedom of a standard in the open air. To be successful, the operator should be acquainted with the theory of vegetation, should study the mode of growth in different trees, and, above all, remember the purpose of all training, viz. the production of bearing wood.

One great difficulty is to preserve equilibrium in the growth of die several parts of the same tree: for the attainment of this object, excellent hints are to be found in the Pomone Française: we shall mention only two or three. A shoot will grow more vigorously whilst waving in the air, than when nailed close to the wall; a weak shoot should therefore be left free, whilst its stronger antagonist should be restrained. A shoot diverging slighdy from the perpendicular, will, other things being equal, obtain a more copious supply of sap than one that is laid out horizontally, or is deflected downwards. A luxuriant shoot may be retarded for some time, by having its tender extremity pinched off, and thus allow a weaker brother to overtake it. By these and other expedients, which will suggest themselves to an attentive horticulturist, and by the prudent use of the knife, it will be easy to execute the following forms, which, on account of their simplicity and general excellence, we select out of many to be found detailed in works on gardening.

The horizontal form (fig. 3.) has long been a favourite in this country, having been strongly recommended in the excellent work of Mr Hitt. There is one principal ascending stem, from which the branches depart at right-angles, at intervals of ten inches or a foot. In trees of ordinary vigour, the vertical shoot is cut back every winter to within fourteen inches of the highest pair of branches: a number of shoots are produced in the beginning of each summer, [7:11:638]out of which three are selected: one is trained in the original direction of the stem, and oné on each side of it, parallel to the base of the wall. By pinching off the point of the leading shoot about midsummer, another pair may be obtained in autumn. In luxuriant trees, the vertical shoot may be left two feet in length, by which means, and by summer pruning, we have known four pairs of branches added in one season. The great object, at first, ought to be to draw the stem upwards: when it has reached the top of the wall, it is made to divaricate into two, and the tree, thus completed as to its height, is henceforth suffered to increase in breadth only. Horizontal training is best adapted to those trees which produce strong shoots, as the Ribston Pippin apple, or the Gansel’s Bergamot pear. For the more twiggy kinds, the form represented in Fig. 4. is more suitable. In this the horizontal branches are eighteen or twenty inches distant, and the small shoots are trained in between them, either on both sides, as below letter a in the figure, or on the under side and downwards, as below b. This last is an excellent method of reclaiming neglected trees of this description. Every alternate branch being taken away, and the spurs cut off, the young shoots are trained in, and soon produce excellent fruit. It is rather singular that Thouin, in his account of the Ecole d’Agriculture pratique du Museum, classes the horizontal form among les tailles hétéroclites ou peu perfectionnées, and says, that, in consequence of its invariably producing a tête de saule, that is, a hedge of young shoots at the top, it has been long since abandoned. From this remark, we must draw the conclusion, that in France the theory of training is in advance of the practice.

The other principal form is called ylzn-traini ng. In this-there is no leading stem, and the t>ranenes are arranged somewhat like the spokes of a fan. Fig 5. represents this shape as it commonly occurs in gardens. , It is difficult to say how, in the case of apple and pear trees, this mode though frequently adopted, is superior or even equal to the horizontal configuration: it is evident, that when the branches reach the top of the wall, where they must be cut short, a tête de saule is inevitable. It would be better to adopt the modification of the fan shape used for stone fruits (fig. 6); to establish a certain number of mother branches and on these to form a series of subordinate members, chiefly composed of bearing wood. The mother branches or limbs should not be numerous, but well marked, equal in strength, and regularly disposed. The side branches should be pretty abundant, short, and not so vigorous as to rival the leading members. To ensure regularity, training should commence with maiden plants; leaders of equal strength should be selected, and encouraged to grow out longitudinally as much as possible, and all crowding among the inferior shoots should be prevented. In riders this form passes into the stellar arrangement. The French have made considerable improvements in this mode of training, some of which are noticed, infra, under the article Peach.

Intermediate between horizontal and fan training, is the half-fan, described in the first volume of the Caledonian Horticultural Society’s Memoirs, by Mr Smith, gardener at Hopetoun-House, and practised by him with great success. It is nearly allied to the horizontal form, but the branches form an acute angle with the stem, and are supposed thus to favour the equal distribution of the sap. In the winter pruning, three and sometimes four central branches are cut back; the shoots which arise from these are arranged in the fan order, and, as they elongate, are gradually brought into the horizontal position. The tree is finished at top as in the horizontal form. Sometimes, as in fig. 7∙; t*' 0 vertical stems are adopted. For vigorous trees, this figure seems to combine the advantages of both the foregoing varieties. ' .

The choice of particular modes of training is too often determined by mere fashionable prejudice, which leads to [7:11:639]the application of the same form to all sorts of trees. Thus the French are apt to reduce every thing to the fan system, whilst some Englistι horticulturists are inclined to force trees of the most rambling· growth into the pillory of a horizontal arrangement. Such a uniformity cannot possibly be in accordance with nature. The enlightened cultivator will employ various forms, and will determine for himself which is the most appropriate, not only for every species, but even for each particular variety of fruit-tree. By attentive observation and rational experiment, more knowledge in this department may be attained in a few years, than by a whole life spent in routine practice.

As supplementary to the preceding remarks on training, we may mention some of the expedients for inducing a state of fruitfulness in trees. Of these, the most common is the cutting back of the roots to within three or four feet of the stem; an operation which is generally found efficacious, when barrenness proceeds from over-luxuriance and too copious a supply of sap. To attain the same end, recourse is sometimes had to ringing the branches or stem, that is, removing a narrow annular portion of the bark. The trees, it is said, are thereby not only rendered productive, but the quality of the fruit is at the same time apparently improved. The advantage is considered as depending on the obstruction given to the descent of the sap, it being thus more copiously afforded, in its elaborated state, for the supply of the buds. The ring should therefore be made in spring, and of such a width that the bark may remain separated for the season. It ought to be observed, however, that none of the stoned fruit-trees are benefited by ringing. Analogous to this practice is decortication, or the removing of the old cracked bark from the stems of apple and pear trees, a practice warmly recommended by Mr Lyon of Edinburgh, and some other cultivators, but which has never been extensively adopted. Sometimes barrenness proceeds from defect of climate and poverty of soil; in which case, a warmer situation and more generous treatment are the most effectual remedies. Fruit-trees should never, if possible, be allowed to become stunted; for in this state they produce only worthless fruit, and acquire a habit which scarcely admits of amelioration.

Protection of Blossom. — In our variable climate, and particularly in the northern and eastern parts of the island, it is very desirable that the horticulturist should be provided with the means of defending the blossom of his fruittrees from the late frosts in spring. For this purpose, some cultivators partially cover their walls with branches of fir or beech, or the fronds of the common broken fern (Pteris aquilina), fastened firmly by several points of attachment, to prevent rubbing. Others recommend frames covered with bunting, osnaburg or similar light fabrics, set in a sloping position in front of the trees. Screens formed of reeds have been used, and nettings of worsted-yarn or of straw-ropes have been employed witn good effect. Whatever contrivance serves to interrupt radiation, though it may not keep the temperature much above freezing, will be found sufficient. Standard fruit-trees must be left to their fate, and, indeed, from the lateness of their flowering, they are generally more injured by blight, and by drenching rains, which wash away the pollen of the flowers, than by the direct effects of cold.

CULTURE OF HARDY FRUITS.

We now proceed to the more special culture of the inmates of a British fruit-garden. We shall begin with the more tender, but for details regarding these, we must, to a considerable extent, refer to the forcing department, in which alone many of the finer fruits can be perfected. The nomenclature of the numerous varieties of the principar fruits is still in an uncertain and unsatisfactory state. Mr Thompson, of the Horticultural Garden at Chiswick, has, however, with much discrimination and judgment, settled the synonyms of many of those chiefly cultivated in our gardens; and we shall therefore (when the contrary is not intimated) adopt the names employed in the second edition of the London Horticultural Society’s Fruit Catalogue.

The Grape Vine ( Vitis vinifera) can scarcely be said to be a hardy fruit in our climate. In every case it requires a good aspect; and north of York, a crop of dessert grapes cannot be expected without the aid of a hot wall. In the extreme south-west districts of England, indeed, grapes fit for the manufacture of wine, perhaps equal in quality to those in the north of France, might be produced On dwarf standards; and there is abundant historical evidence that productive vineyards once existed in that part of the country.

In the Lond. Hort. Soc. Catalogue, 182 varieties of grapes are enumerated. Some of these, however, have not as yet been well ascertained; some arc pronounced indifferent, and others worthless. We shall name only a few of those most deserving the attention of the cultivator.

Miller’s Burgundy. This sort is distinguished by the hoary pubescence of its leaves. It is a black grape, with short compact clusters, small round berries, and clear, high-flavonred juice. It is hardy, ripening completely on a south wall.

Black Damascus. Bunches large, with round berries and sweet juice. This valuable late variety does not set well, and the bunches are improved by the blossom being dusted with the pollen of some hardy kind.

Frankenthal. A valuable grape, resembling the black Hamburgh. Bunches moderate in size, berries obovate, flavour excellent. Succeeds best in a warm vinery.

Frontignan (or Frontignac). Five varieties under this appellation, and distinguished by the names of black, blue, grizzly, red, white, are mentioned in horticultural catalogues. They vary in colour and form of the cluster. The berries are round, the skin thick, and the juice of a rich muscat flavour. They are all of the highest excellence.

Black Gibraltar, or Bed Hamburgh of Lindley. This is an excellent grape, with large clusters, and large dark-red berries, full of a sweet juice.

Black Hamburgh. This is a well-known grape, of great Value, and perhaps more generally cultivated for the dessert in this country than any other sort. It ought to be in every collection.

Black Lombardy (or West’s St Peter’s). Bunches large, berries round, skin thin, with a sweet flavour; an excellent late sort. The fruit will hang on the vines till March.

Boyal Muscadine, L. Hort. Cat. or White Muscadine of Lindley. Usual Chasselas of Paris. This, though not a first-rate grape, is a favourite with many. Bunches large, berries white, round, with sweet flavour.

Muscat of Alexandria. Bunches long, berries white and oval, with a delicious muscat flavour. This most admirable variety requires a high temperature, and should properly have a small vinery for itself.

Pitmaston White Cluster. This excellent variety sprang from a seed of the small black cluster grape. The bunch is compact, the berry is round, when ripe of an amber colour, bronzed with russet on one side. It comes to perfection on the open wall in England, and is also well suited for forcing.

White Sweet Water. Bunch loose, berries round, flavour sweet. It ripens early, generally from the middle to the end of September; and in the south of England it sue-ceeds[7:11:640] against the open wall. The bunches should be allowed to hang until they be perfectly ripe, when the berries acquire a slight russet colour. It has long been a favourite grape.

Stillward’s Sweet-Water is a recent variety, of equal merit.

Black Morillon, or Burgundy Grape, or Small black cluster, ripens in England against a south wall.

The Black Prince is of easy cultivation in a common vinery, and the berries are of a pleasant flavour.

The Zante, or Corinth Grape, is often called Zante Currant. In general it is a shy-bearer, and the berries are small; but Mr Gow, gardener at Tulliallan, having fertilized some bunches with the pollen of the Black Hamburgh, found that they set more freely, and that the berries were larger and better flavoured; a hint worth attending to in other cases.

Verdelho. Bunches loose, colour greenish-yellow, berries small, oval, numerous; when fully ripe, of a rich saccharine flavour. It is the principal grape cultivated in Madeira for making the celebrated Madeira wine. The plant grows vigorously; and Mr Knight has observed of it, that the same degree of shade which would render the greater number of sorts wholly unproductive, scarcely affects the fertility of this; a convenient property, which adapts it for the back wall of a glazed house. The same horticulturist mentions another economical property of the verdelho: it bears plentifully when planted in very small pots: a few pots of it may therefore be introduced among green-house plants in early spring; the almost leafless stems do no injury till the end of May, when some of the more hardy ornamental plants can be set abroad; and during the warm months which follow, when the green-house is otherwise empty, abundant crops of these grapes may be procured.

Esperione, or Turner’s Early Black. The bunches are large and shouldered, not unlike those of the Black Hamburgh. The berries are of a fine dark colour, with a bluish farina: the pulp adheres to the skin; and though neither highly flavoured nor melting, it is very pleasant. This grape ripens on the open wall near London.

The Syrian Grape is remarkable for the extraordinary size and beauty of its bunches; but it is a late variety, and the berries have not much flavour. This is generally regarded as the kind produced in the valley of Eshcol, a cluster of which was brought to the camp of Israel swung on a staff between two of the spies; not probably on account of its weight, but (as Dr Clarke observes) to prevent the berries from being bruised.

In addition to the above, the editor of the Land. Bort. Cat. mentions the following as excellent grapes :—Ciotat, or Parsley-Leaved; Genuine Tokay, or White Morillon; Chasselas Musqué; Chasselas précoce; Elford; Lunel; Mignonne White Cluster; Black Morocco; Black Muscadine; Petersburgh; Raisin des Carmes; White Tokay, and Black Tripoli.

The kinds commonly grown on the open wall in England are the Miller Burgundy, Esperione, White Muscadine, and White Sweet-Water. In the north of England, and in the south of Scotland, vines always require hot walls. At Erskine-house, on the Clyde, Black Hamburgh grapes are every year produced against a hot-wall, equal in size and flavour to those of the vinery or hot-house. In some gardens, an entire wall is dedicated to vines, but, in general, they occupy only the interstices between other trees. Mr Williams of Pitmaston trained a vine under the coping of a wall to the extent of fifty feet, and bent down the shoots at intervals to fill up the spaces between the fruit-trees, and he found that the grapes were the finer the farther they were distant from the stem. The culture of grapes on a wall does not differ materially from that practised in a moderately worked vinery; we shall, therefore defer any further observations, till we resume the subject in treating of the forcing department.

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The Fig-Tree (Ficus Carica) is not a great favourite in this country, the fresh fruit not being much relished, and our tables being supplied with a vast abundance of dried figs imported from the Mediterranean. Every good garden ought, however, to contain a few trees, to furnish an occasional dish; and we doubt not that the fresh fruit, if it were more common, and better grown, would be more liked. The foliage of the tree is large and elegant; and the mode of fructification is curious: the pulpy part, which we call the fruit, being, in fact, a common receptacle, and the anthers and stigmata being produced inside. The nomenclature of figs is still very uncertain, and it is with some hesitation that we give the following names :—

1. Black Ischia. 6. Murrey-coloured or Brown

2. Black Genoa. Naples.

3. Large Blue, or purple. 7∙ Pregussata.

4. Brunswick or Madonna. 8. Lee’s Perpetual, δ. Brown Ischia or Miller’s 9. Early White.

chestnut fig. 10. Marseilles or Figue blanche.

Of these the Marseilles, the Early White and Black Ischia, and Large Blue, are best adapted for forcing; the others are suitable for walls. Lee’s perpetual answers well for either mode of culture; but it is not mentioned by Loudon or by Lindley, being probably regarded by them as a sub-variety of the Large Blue.

Fig-trees may be propagated by cuttings put into flowerpots, and placed in a gentle hot-bed. They are, however, most speedily obtained from layers. The shoots laid down should be two or three years old; and these, when rooted, will form plants ready to bear fruit the first or second year after planting. Suckers ought never to be used.

In some places in England fig-trees are planted out as standards; and in Kent and Sussex, a few small fig orchards exist. In Scotland a south wall is indispensable, trained to which, in good situations, and when the trees are old enough, they bear remarkably well. The best soil for a fig border, is a rich friable loam, on a subsoil not retentive of moisture, or which has been effectually drained. It is advantageous to have a lofty wall, and the trees should be planted at considerable distances, perhaps not nearer than forty feet, to allow them full space to exhaust their luxuriance.

It is of the nature of the fig-tree to produce two sets of shoots, and two crops of fruit, in the season. The first shoots generally shew young figs in July and August, but those in our climate very seldom ripen. The late or midsummer shoots likewise put forth fruit-buds, which, however, do not develope themselves till the following spring, and then form the only crop of figs on which we can depend in this country.

Various modes of training fig-trees have been proposed. Mr Lindley recommends the horizontal form. Mr Knight carries up a central stem perpendicularly to the top of the wall, and then radiates the side-branches horizontally and pendently, in close contact with the wall. Luxuriance of growth is supposed thus to be checked, and the branches thrown into a bearing habit. The finest fig-trees which we have seen in Scotland, are trained in the old fan form. The shoots are laid in, thinly, at full length, and encouraged to extend themselves as fast as possible, precaution, however, being taken to leave no part of the tree bare of young wood. M ach of the pruning is performed in summer by pinching off unnecessary shoots, and the knife is seldom employed, except in removing naked branches, or in cutting back to procure a supply of young wood. Some cultivators break off the points of the spring shoots, in order to produce laterals, but this must be done at an early period, not later perhaps than mid-summer, otherwise the young [7:11:641]shoots will not ripen f The Rev. G. Swayne recommends rubbing off all the young figs which appear in autumn on shoots of the same year; observing, that for every young fig thus displaced, the rudiments of one, or perhaps two others, are formed before winter, and developed in the following year.

The winter dressing of the fig-tree takes place immediately after the fall of the leaf. The immature figs which may remain are removed, irregularities are corrected, and the shoots nailed neatly to the wall, λ 7 arious modes of protecting the branches during winter have been adopted. As Argenteuil, where figs are cultivated on standards for the Paris market, the lower branches are bent downwards, and buried about six inches deep in the soil; while the upper branches are tied together, and bound round with straw and litter. Mr Swayne mentions that he wraps up the young shoots with waste paper. Mr Forsyth recommends covering wall fig-trees with the spray of laurel or yew, and then tucking in short grass or moss (]ιypnum) among the spray. Mr Smith, first at Ormiston Hall, and afterwards at Hopetoun-house, has found (Cal. Hort. Soc. Mem. vol. ii.) a covering of spruce-fir branches to be very effectual. The branches are so placed as to overlap each other, and to form a layer nearly equally thick on every part of the tree. The foliage of the spruce branches remains green till March, and as the light and heat increase, the dried leaves gradually fall off, and admit air and sun to the fig-branches below.

Mr Monck {Lond. Hort. Trans, vol. v.) states, that the same fig-tree seldom produces fruit containing both perfect stamens and pistils, and conjectures that this is the cause of the fruit being so often prematurely shed. Caprification, or assisting the fructifying and maturation of figs, has often been sneered at; but here we see reason in that kind of it which consisted in hanging or shaking the branches of the wild fig (caprificus) over the cultivated tree at the time when both were in blossom.

The Peach (Amygdalus Persicà) is a stone-fruit of oriental origin, said to have been brought from Persia by the Romans, about the beginning of the empire; but the precise period of its introduction into our gardens, of which it has long been the pride and ornament, is not well ascertained. There are two principal varieties: the Peach, properly so called, with a downy skin; and the Nectarine, with a smooth skin. These, following the authority of Linnaeus, we consider as one species; and as their culture is precisely the same, we shall speak of them as distinct only when referring to their sub-varieties. Each of these varieties is again divided by gardeners into freestones or pêches, and clingstones or pavies, according as the stone parts freely from the pulp, or adheres to it. We shall here treat chiefly of the freestones, as being most hardy, and fittest for the open wall in Britain.

Mr George Lindley, whose arrangement is the best that has hitherto been published, enumerates 60 kinds of peaches, and 28 of nectarines. In the Horticultural Catalogue, the names of 183 peaches, and of 65 nectarines, are recorded. We doubt not but that in America, where the trees are commonly raised from kernels, and grown as standards, several thousand varieties and sub-varieties might be collected. To enumerate even the limited number existing in Britain, would far exceed our limits: we shall therefore notice only a few of those which are most distinct, and best adapted to our climate.

Peaches. Red Nutmeg, or Avant rouge. This is one of the earliest peaches, ripening about the beginning of August. The fruit small; colour pale yellow towards the wall, bright vermilion next the sun; pulp white, but red at the core; the juice rich and musky. The tree is an abundant bearer.

Acton Scot. This was raised by Mr Knight between the noblesse and the nutmeg peach, in 1814. The fruit is red next the sun, and white on the other side; the pulp rich, juicy, and saccharine; the tree is a good bearer, and not apt to be affected with mildew. It ripens in August.

Spring-Grove. This is another of Mr Knight’s peaches, raised from the grosse mignonne crossed with the pollen of the nutmeg. It is dark red on one side, and bright yellow on the other; pulp firm, but melting, and of excellent flavour. The tree is a good bearer, but succeeds best on an aprico stock. The fruit ripens in the beginning of September.

Grosse Mignonne, L. Hort. Cat., or Neil ’ s Early Purple. Fruit large; skin pale yellow, and deep purple next the sun; flesh melting; juice plentiful, and of delicious flavour. This excellent peach is a good bearer, and forces well, but the fruit does not bear carriage. It ripens in the end of August and beginning of September.

Madeleine de Courson ; Red Magdalene of Miller. Blossoms large; fruit rather below the middle size; colour yellowish white next the wall, beautiful red next the sun; flesh white, with very little red at the stone; juice rich and vinous. Tree a good bearer; fruit ripening about the beginning of September. “An excellent peach,” says Mr Lindley, “and ought to be found in every collection.”

Royal George. This is a well-known peach, much cultivated. By nurserymen it is often given out as the Red Magdalene; but it is at once distinguished from the Red Magdalene of Miller, by the blossoms being small. Against a good wall it ripens in the beginning of September, even in indifferent seasons. Fruit large, purplish red next the sun, whitish where shaded; flesh white, varied with red next the stone which is free; melting, rich, with an abundant sugary juice. It is also one of the best kinds for a peach-house, fruiting freely, and ripening well. The foliage is, however, rather subject to mildew.

Noblesse. This has long and deservedly been a favourite in our gardens. It is a very large fruit; the skin pale red when ripe, the flesh juicy and rich. The tree is a good bearer, and the fruit ripens in September.

Bellegarde’, the Galande of the nurseries. Fruit large and globular; skin deep red, with purple streaks on the sunny side; flesh pale yellow, very melting; juice rich. An excellent peach; the tree forces well, and the fruit ripens on the open wall about the middle of September.

Late Admirable, or La Royale. Fruit large; skin pale green next the wall, pale red on the sunny side; flesh greenish white, red at the stone; juice abundant, and, when well ripened, of a high flavour. “One of the very best late peaches,” says Mr Thompson, “and ought to be in every collection: it is very proper for the peach-house, to succeed the earlier sorts.”

Nearly allied to the preceding is the Teton de Venus, a beautiful fruit, but requiring a warm situation. In a good season, it ripens at the end of September; is saccharine, and at same time of fine flavour.

George the Fourth. L. Hort. Cat. 65. American Or-chardist, p. 223. This is a fine large peach, of American origin; bears forcing well, and is a semi-clingstone. It is too tender for the open wall in this country.

Among other excellent peaches may be mentioned :— Freestones, Barrington, Chancellor, Knight’s Early, Downton Early, Malta, Morrisania Pound, Royal Charlotte, Royal George Mignonne, William’s Early Purple; Clingstones, Catharine, Heath, and Old Newington.

Nectarines. Fairchilds Early. A beautiful little freestone, chiefly, [7:11:642]however, cultivated for its earliness. It ripens about the middle of August.

Elruge, L. Hort. Cat., 21. Lind. p. 287 (not of Miller). It is an excellent fruit, of a moderate size; flesh white almost to the stone, which is free. The tree forces well, and is a good bearer. Fruit ripens about the beginning of September.

Hunt’s Tawny. Size moderate; skin pale orange next the wall, russet-red towards the sun; flesh deep orange, juicy and well flavoured; a freestone. A very distinct sort, worthy of cultivation for its earliness.

Early Newington. A fine large clingstone; pale green on the shaded side, bright red next the sun; juice saccharine and well flavoured. Ripens in August.

Red Roman. An excellent old clingstone, now seldom to be met with genuine, but worthy of re-introduction.

A few other first-rate nectarines may be enumerated :— Freestones, Brinion, Downton, Murrey (i. e. murrey-coloured), Pitmaston Orange, Violette Grosse, Violette Hâtive; Clingstones, Imperatrice, Newington Late Tawny. A very good nectarine was raised by the late Mr Henderson at Woodhall, in Scotland. It approaches the Einige. The fruit is early, and of excellent flavour, and the tree bears plentifully. It has been named the Woodhall nectarine.

For information respecting the best modes of raising new varieties of peaches and nectarines, the reader may be referred to Mr Knight’s papers in the first volume of the Transactions of the Horticultural Society of London. That ardent horticulturist entertains the hope, that, by repeated sowings, the peach may acquire so robust a habit as to be capable of succeeding as a standard in favourable situations in England and Ireland. But with this desirable object in view, we would rather see the number of the kinds diminished than increased; and it would be well for the country, were all the indifferent sorts banished from the nursery catalogues.

To perpetuate and multiply valuable varieties, peaches and nectarines are budded upon plum or almond stocks. For dry situations, almond stocks are preferable; and for damp or clayey loams, it is better to use plums. The peach border should be composed of alight mellow loam, such as is suitable for the vine and the fig. It should be quite free from all stagnant water, or latent dampness. It need not be of great depth, as the peach tree thrives best, and is most productive, when the roots are near the surface of the ground. In this country, nothing is a greater obstacle to success in peach culture than trenching the borders, and cropping them with vegetables. We believe that, in many instances, all that is required to remedy sickly and unfruitful trees is to bring up their roots within five or six inches of the surface.

The fruit of the peach is produced on the twiggy shoots of the preceding year. If these be too luxuriant, they produce nothing but leaves; and if too weak, they are incapable of maturing the fruit. To produce these, then, in sufficient abundance, and of requisite strength, is the great object of peach training and pruning. All twiggy trees naturally fall into the fan form; and accordingly this has generally been adopted in the culture of peaches. Some have followed the horizontal arrangement, and Mr Knight has recommended a method, the principal purpose of which seems to be to thwart the usual mode of growth of the tree. In reference to such arrangements we can only say:

Naturam expelles furca, tamen usque recurret.

W e shall first notice the old English method, and then briefly the French, and other new varieties of training.

The old an form is very nearly that which we have already given {supra, p. 638,) as a specimen of fan training for twiggy trees, lhe young tree is often procured when it has been trained for two or three years in the nursery, but it is generally better to commence with a maiden plant, that is, in the first year after it has been budded. It is then headed down to five or six buds, and in the following summer two or four shoots, according to the vigour of the plant, are trained in; the laterals also being thinned out, and properly nailed to the wall. Suppose there are four branches, in the following winter the two central ones are shortened back to produce others, and the inferior ones are laid in nearly at full length. In the following season additional shoots are sent forth; and the process is repeated till eight or ten principal limbs or mother branches be obtained, forming, as it were, the frame-work of the future tree. These mother branches are occasionally raised or depressed, so as to maintain their t equilibrium, and are as much encouraged to grow outwards as is consistent with the regülar filling up of the tree. The laterals are carefully thinned out (by pinching off with the fingers) in summer; and the remainder are nailed in, to afford subordinate members and bearing wood. When the centre of the tree has been filled up, all the training necessary is merely to prevent the inferior members from acquiring an undue ascendency over the mother branches. It is highly advantageous to have abundant space, and to draw the tree outwards, so that it be thin, but nowhere destitute of young shoots.

Meanwhile the pruning for fruit has been going on. This consists in shortening down the laterals which had been nailed in at the disbudding, or summer pruning. Their length will depend on their individual vigour, and the luxuriance of the tree. The buds, which are generally double, or rather two together, with a fruit bud between them, seldom occur quite close to the insertion of the shoot. Perhaps two or three pairs are left with a wood-bud at the point to afford a growing shoot, in order to act as its lungs, for it is necessary that there should be leaves above the fruit When the fruit begins to swell, the point of this leading shoot is pinched off that it may not drain off the sap. Any young shoot from the wood-eyes at the base of the bearing branch is carefully preserved, and in the following winter it takes the place of the branch which has borne fruit and is cut out. If there be no young shoot below, and the bearing branch be short, the shoots at the point of the latter are pruned for fruit; but this must be done cautiously; and if the bearing branch be long, it is better to cut it back for young wood. It is the neglect of this which constitutes the principal error of the English fan system as it is usually practised. Several times during summer the trees are regularly examined; the young shoots are respectively topped and thinned out; those that remain are nailed to the wall, or braced in with pieces of peeled willow, and the whole trees are occasionally washed with the force-pump.

The Montrueil form is described at length in the Hór-

ticultural Tour, p. 429, or in the Cal. Hort. Mem. vol. iv. p. 145. The principal feature constitutes the great principle of all French training, the suppression of the direct channel of the sap. Four, more commonly two, mère branches are so laid to the wall that the central angle contains about 90°. The other branches are all treated as subordinate members.
[7:11:643]

The form à la Dumoutier (so called from its inventor, and described at great length by Lelιeur), is merely a re finement on the Montrueil method. It will be sufficient to mention to the experienced trainer (and none other can be expected to execute this form), that the formation of the tree commences with the inferior limbs, and proceeds towards the centre, the branches being lowered from time time, as the tree acquires strength. What is most worthy of notice in this method, is the management of the subordinates in the pruning for fruit. When a' shoot promises blossom, it is generally at some distance from the point of insertion into the old wood, and the intermediate space is covered with wood buds. All the latter, therefore, which are between the old wood a and the blossom c, in the outer figure, except the lowest b, are carefully removed by ebour-geonnement. This never fails to produce a shoot, b in the inner figure, the growth of which is favoured by destroying the useless spray above the blossoms, and pinching off the points of those which are necessary to perfect the fruit. A replacing shoot is thus obtained, to Avhich the whole is invariably shortened at the end of the year. The branch thus treated is called the branche de reserve.

The form à la Siculle is another modification of the Montrueil training, for an account of which we must again refer to the Horticultural Tour. Fig. 10. will give an idea of the general arrangement of the tree. The two mother branches are laid in very obliquely, and are never shortened. On the subordinate branches only three buds are left, at the winter pruning, one terminal, and two at a considerable distance from each other on the sides of the shoot. This method, probably, is not well adapted to our climate.

Mr Seymour's form, as described in vols. i. and ii. of the Gardener’s Magazine, approaches more nearly to the French methods than any other practised in this country. It will be seen, however, from the annexed figure (fig. 11), that he does not suppress the direct channel of the sap. This circumstance, although considerable stress seems to be laid upon it, is not essential to the plan, nor is perhaps the best part of it. The principal novelty is, that the· bearing shoots are all on the upper sides of the mother branches, and that these bearing shoots are wholly reproduced once a-year.

The one side of this figure represents the tree after the winter pruning, the other side before it has undergone that operation. It will be observed, that on this last side there are pairs of shoots on the upper parts of the mother branches. The lower shoot, that, namely, which has borne fruit, is cut out, and the other is brought down into its place. This replacing shoot is shortened to about eight or nine inches, care being taken to cut at a wood-bud; and at the time of disbudding, the best situate buds, and those nearest the base, are left for the future year’s bearing. To this plan it is objected, by a writer in the Horticultural Register, that the annual excision of the bearing shoots produces a series of rugged and increasingly ugly protuberances at their base and along the upper surface of the principal members; an objection which also militates against Dumoutier’s form. Mr Loudon, on the other hand, declares that Mr Seymour’s mode is the most perfect in theory that has been described. For ourselves, we are inclined to prefer the old fan form, when well executed, as nearest the natural habit of the tree, and as best adapted to our uncertain climate. In the training of peaches, “whatever is best administered is best and there is no doubt that many ingenious gardeners have only partial success, because, from the multiplicity of their engagements, their trees can receive only partial attention.

For cold and late situations, Mr Knight has recommended the encouraging of spurs on the young wood; such spurs, when close to the Avail, generating the best organized and most vigorous blossoms, and ensuring a crop of fruit. They may be produced, by taking care, during the summer-pruning, or disbudding, to preserve a number of the little shoots emitted by the. yearly wood, only pinching off the minute succulent points. On the spurs thus procured, numerous blossom-buds form early in the follθAving season.

Peach-trees, particularly in the north of England, and also in Scotland, require protection from atmospherical influences, especially at the period of blossoming. As already noticed, branches of spruce or silver fir, or other spray, are sometimes Avoven into frames, Avhich are fixed in front of the trees, and removed during the day in fine Aveather (Cal. ĬJort. Mem. i. 276). Canvass or bunting screens are equally effectual, and perhaps more easily moveable. Straw-ropes, straAv-nets, and a variety of other expedients, have been proposed, and may be used according to circumstances. If the screens be applied early in the season, great benefit may be derived from retarding the blossom till the frosty nights of spring be past. If the night frost have been severe, a copious sprinkling of Avater over the Avhole tree, before the influence of the morning sun be felt, has been found by Harrison to be very useful in gradually raising the temperature of the foliage and blossoms, and thus preventing injury from the sudden transition. To trees trained against hot-walls, if fire be used in spring, screens are indispensable; but perhaps hot-walls are most beneficially employed in ripening off the fruit of the late sorts of peaches in autumn; and, what is equally important, ripening the young wood of such sorts.

The ALMOND-Tree (Amygdalus communis), a native of China, may be noticed hère rather on account of its [7:11:644]affinity to the peach and aprico, than because of its importance as a fruit-tree in this country. Every good garden should contain a tree or two trained against a west or east wall, and also a few standards; for in very fine seasons the latter will yield crops, and they are always ornamental in spring from the beauty of their blossoms. The sorts most worthy of notice are:

Tender-shelled Sweet Almond, or Jordan.

Common Almond, or Bitter.

The almond is generally budded on seedlings of its own kind; but for heavy soils, plum-stocks are preferable. The training and pruning of almond-trees on walls are much the same as in the peach or the aprico.

The Aprīcot (Prunus Armeniaca) is a native of the Caucasus and China; it was cultivated by the Romans, and was introduced into England from Italy in the reign of Henry VIII. It has always, and deservedly, been a favourite fruit. The principal varieties are:

Red Masculine. Flowers small; fruit small, roundish, yellow, and red; flesh sweet and juicy; stone impervious; kernel bitter. This is a very early sort. The tree is tender, and requires a good aspect.

Breda. Flowers large; fruit roundish, sometimes almost four-cornered, orange-coloured; juice rich; stone small, impervious; kernel sweet. The true Breda is an aprico of first-rate excellence, and in the south of England the tree bears well as a standard.

Roman. Flowers large; fruit oblong, compressed, pale yellow; flesh soft; stone impervious; kernel very bitter. The tree is a good bearer, but the fruit is fit only for preserving. It is sometimes called the Brussels,—a name also occasionally given to the preceding.

Moorpark. Flowers large; fruit roundish, compressed, orange and red; flesh parting from the stone, juicy and rich; stone pervious; kernel bitter. This is generally considered the best apricdt in this country: there are several sub-varieties known under different names, and it scarcely differs from the Abrico Pêche of the French.

Turkey. Flowers large; fruit middle-sized, spherical, deep yellow; flesh juicy and rich, parting from the stone, which is impervious; kernel sweet. This is an excellent late variety.

Besides these, we may mention the Large Early, the White Masculine, Hemskirke, Musch-musch, and Royal. The last is a French variety of recent origin; it is excellent, and ripens earlier than the Moorpark.

Apricos are propagated by budding on muscle or common plum-stocks. Mr Knight recommends the wilding aprico as a stock for the Moorpark variety. Some gardeners have adopted the horizontal form of training, but the most usual, and certainly the best, is the common fanarrangement. The fruit is produced on shoots of the preceding year, and on small close spurs formed on the two-year old wood. The aprico is a tree of much stronger growth than the peach, and therefore requires more room; this and the peculiarity of the spurs being kept in mind, the observations made on the training and pruning of the peach may be readily applied to this tree. It requires a summer and winter pruning. The former should begin early in June, at which period all irregular fore-right and useless shoots are pinched off; and, shortly afterwards, those which remain are fastened to the wall to become bearers. At the winter pruning, all worn-out branches, and such as are not duly furnished with spurs and fruitbuds, are removed. The young bearers are moderately pruned at the points, care, however, being taken to leave a terminal shoot to each branch. The most common error in the pruning of apricos, is laying in the bearing shoots too thickly.

The blossom comes early in spring, but is more hardy than that of the peach; the same means of protection when necessary, may be employed. The fruit often sets too numerously; and in this case it is thinned out in June and in the beginning of July, the later thinnings being used for tarts, for which purpose they are excellent. In the south of England, apricos are sometimes trained against espalier-rails, and occasionally planted as dwarf standards; and it is said that in good seasons the fruit from such trees is more highly flavoured than that from walls. In general, however, the protection of a wall is necessary. An east or west aspect is preferred in England, the full south being apt to induce mealiness of pulp. In Scotland, the late varieties require the best aspect that can be afforded.

The Pι,UM-Tree (Prunus domestica) is considered by Sir J. E. Smith as a native of England. Many of the best cultivated varieties, however, have been introduced from France. The Horticultural Society’s Catalogue enumerates 274 sorts, though probably all of these are not well ascertained. We shall first notice a few of the best dessert plums, and then give a list of select kitchen sorts.

The Green Gage is the Reine Claude of the French.. Being a great favourite at Paris (as it is every where else), during the ferment of the Revolution, when all allusions to royalty were proscribed, it retained its popularity under the title of Prune Citoyenne. It was introduced into England by the Gage family, and the foreign name having been lost, it obtained its present appellation. It is a fruit of first-rate excellence, and exquisite flavour. The tree deserves a place against an east or west wall, where the fruit acquires a larger size, without materially falling off in richness of flavour. Treated as a wall-tree, it seldom bears well till it be old; and it is very impatient of exact training, as indeed most plums are. In warm situations it may be profitably grown on an espalier rail, or as a dw arf standard.

Drap d’ Or. This is a small yellow plum of high flavour, ripening in the beginning of September. On a light soil the tree is a tolerable bearer; but on a heavy soil it seldom succeeds. The fruit precedes the green gage in ripening, and resembles it in quality.

Coe’s Golden Drop. A fine large oval plum, excellent either for the tabic, or for preserving. It keeps well; and Mr Lindley informs us, that he has eaten it exceedingly good twelve months after it had been gathered. It requires the best aspect of a wall; and will scarcely answer in a bleak climate.

Precoce de Tours. An early sort; of a dark-blue colour, with a violet bloom; pulp yellow, and of a very pleasant flavour. The tree succeeds as a standard.

Blue Imperatrice. A fine late plum; a good bearer, but requiring an east or west wall.

Reine Claude violette, L. Hort. Cat. 232. Purple Gage, Lind. p. 455. A very high flavoured variety, resembling, colour excepted, the green gage. It succeeds on standards, but is improved by a wall. The tree is a good bearer.

Washington, L. Hort. Cat. 266. ; Amer. Orchard, p. 268. Fruit rather large, roundish oval, pale yellow on the shaded side, and of a fine glaucous light purple on the exposed side; of excellent quality, scarcely inferior to the green gage. The tree is vigorous, and bears well against a wall, ripening about the middle of August. Being an early plum, it will, in favourable situations, succeed as a standard. It is, as the name imports, of American origin. It ought to be in every collection.

Couper’ 's Large Red. This is described by Mr Barnet of the Experimental Garden, Edinburgh, as of large size, oval; suture deeply cleft on one side; skin of a bluish-glaucous purple on the exposed side, the other side dull red; flesh firm, adhering to the stone; ripens in the beginning of September on a south wall (in Scotland). Although [7:11:645]this is only a plum of the second quality, yet the tree well merits a place, on account of its great productiveness.

The following are also first-rate plums: D’Agen, Coe’s Late Red, Downton Imperatrice, Kirke’s, Nectarine, Blue Perdrigon, and White Perdrigon.

The Cheston, Fotheringham, Goliath, Orleans, Wilmot’s New Orleans, La Royale, Sharpe’s Emperor, Morocco, and some of the Damasks, though generally regarded as only second-rate plums, deserve notice, and should always have a place in large gardens. The Early Violet is an excellent bearer, and strongly recommended by Lindley to be planted in cottage gardens. Lucomb’s Nonsuch plum should not be omitted; for when well ripened, it makes an approach to the green gage in flavour.

As kitchen and preserving plums we may specify the Damson, Shropshire Damson, Imperial Diadem, Isabella, White Magnum Bonum, Red Magnum Bonum or Imperiale; the Caledonia or Nectarine Plum, a large and handsome fruit; the Mirabelle, St Catherine, Wine Sour, and Bullace.

The finer dessert plums are propagated chiefly by budding on Muscle or St Julian stocks. They are sometimes grafted, but gum is apt to break out at the place of junction. The damson, wine sour, and other varieties, planted as standards, are generally increased by suckers, which the old plants afford plentifully. For placing against walls, trees which have been trained for two years in the nursery are to be preferred.

Plum-trees require ample space. On common walls they should be allowed from twenty to twenty-five feet of breadth over which to extend themselves. The horizontal mode of training is adopted by many. The fan form is also very commonly followed, and undoubtedly where there is room, it is the best. The shoots ought to be laid in at full length. The fruit is produced on small spurs, on branches at least two years old. The same spurs continue fruitful for several years.

Standard plum-trees require only to have a portion of their wood thinned out occasionally while they are young. The hardy kinds grown in this way are very productive, and in some places in the North of England, their produce forms a considerable article of food for several weeks, and also an article of commerce, particularly the wine sour, which is in great request for preserves. It is matter of regret that this branch of fruit culture has not, as yet, met with due attention in Scotland.

The Cherry-Tree (Prunus Cerasus), is said to have been introduced into Europe from Pontus, by the celebrated Lucullus, A. C. 73. From the “London cries” of Lydgate, it appears that “cherries in the ryse,” or in twigs, were hawked in London at the beginning of the 15th century. Excellent sorts have at various times been introduced from the Continent, and, of late years, several first-rate new varieties have been raised in England. Geans included, the Horticultural Society’s Catalogue enumerates no fewer than 219 varieties; the following may be accounted some of the best.

The Early Purple Griotte may be first mentioned, as being tfιe earliest of all cherries, generally ripening in the end of May. It was introduced from Geneva a few years ago, and is not yet generally known in this country.

The May-Duke is one of the most common, and, at the same time, one of the most valuable cherries. In fine seasons, and on a good aspect of wall, it begins to colour in May; and in such situations it is generally ripe from the middle to the. end of June. The tree also bears well as a dwarf standard, but against a wall the fruit gets larger, and does not fall off in flavour.

The Late Duke is a rich sweet cherry, with most of the qualities of a May-Duke. It has a very close affinity to the variety called the Arch-Duke, if it be not absolutely the same. On a standard it ripens in August Bigarreau or Graffion. This is an excellent fruit, especially when it gets the protection of a wall. In Kensington Gardens are trees of this sort a century old, which still produce abundant crops. In the cherry orchards of England, this sort is now pretty extensively cultivated, the fruit meeting with a ready sale, and vast quantities being required for the London market.

Harrison’s Heart is nearly allied to the Bigarreau; it is rather of larger size and of fine appearance in the dessert, but inferior in flavour. The fruit has this advantage, that it is not liable to crack in wet weather.

Belle de Clioisy, an excellent cherry. The fruit come in pairs, red, mottled with amber colour, tender and sweet. The tree bears well as a standard.

Black Tartarian, or Ronalds’s Black Heart, L. Hort. Cat. 198 ; Lind.p. 149- Fruit large, obtuse heart-shaped; flesh half tender. “The quality is good, and in appearance it is one of the finest.” It is a good bearer, and well adapted for forcing.

Waterloo. Raised by a daughter of Mr Knight, from the Bigarreau and May-Duke. Fruit black, large, obtuse heart-shaped, pulp tender. It ripens in July, and the tree is a free bearer.

Elton. Raised by Mr Knight from the Bigarreau and White Heart. Fruit large, heart-shaped, pale red, with a sweet delicious juice. The tree is a good bearer and hardy; the fruit ripens shortly after the May-Duke.

Kentish Cherry. One of the oldest and most prevalent cherries in England, abounding in the orchards of Kent. When ripe, it is of a full red colour, and its subacid flavour is very agreeable. It is commonly grown on standards, and ripens in the end of July. The Hort. Cat. distinguishes this from the Flemish or short-stalked, also a good cherry, to which it is certainly closely allied.

The Morello. This is a well-known late cherry, much in request for confectionery. The tree is a copious bearer, and on a south wall the fruit acquires a peculiarly rich subacid flavour. It succeeds perfectly well on a north aspect, where its fruit may be retarded to the end of October.

The Amber, or yellow Spanish, is a late fruit, and useful in prolonging the cherry season till the beginning of September. It requires a west wall.

Among other excellent varieties may be mentioned the Black Eagle, Black Heart, Bowyer’s Early Heart, Carnation, Downton, Florence, Knight’s Early Black, and the White Heart.

What are called geans or guignes, are cherries less removed from their natural state. They are usually grown as standards, and bear abundantly, particularly when old. The principal sorts are the Amber gean, a plentiful bearer, with sweet tender fruit; and the Lundie gean, a small black cherry of high flavour, which originated at the ancient seat of the Erskines in Forfarshire, but is also sometimes called the Polton gean, from a place near Lasswade in Mid-Lothian.

It may be noticed that, in the Jardin des Plantes at Paris, the black-fruited cherry-tree, or Guignier, is considered as a variety of Prunus Cerasus. The forest cherry-tree, P. avium, is named Merisier; and, besides varieties with red and with black fruit, there is a marked variety called Bi-garotier.

The great quantities of pale-coloured cherries yearly sold in the London market are chiefly of the kinds called White Heart and Bigarreau, The dark coloured cherries are chiefly the Courone, which is often passed upon buyers for the Black Heart.

The stock preferred for cherries is the wild gean. Mr Lindley recommends that dwarf cherry-trees should be grafted, and two or three year-old stocks wall do for them.
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For standard trees the stocks should be at least four years old, and they should be budded or grafted five or six feet from the ground. High stemmed cherry-trees, or riders, are often temporarily employed to fill up the vacant spaces on newly planted south walls, till the dwarf trees make sufficient progress; for these, stocks six or seven feet high are required.

Cherries are generally produced on small spurs which appear on the wood of the second year, and these spurs continue productive for an indefinite period. Any form of training may therefore be adopted; but, as the fruit is always finest on young spurs, perhaps fan-training, which admits of the frequent renovation of the bearing branches, is the most advantageous. A succession of young shoots should be laid in every year. For the Morello, which is of twiggy growth, and bears on the young wood, the fan form is absolutely necessary. Whatever method be adopted for general practice, care should be taken not to crowd the branches; nothing is more injurious to the productiveness of the trees than crowding of branches.

The Pear Tree (Pyrus communis) is. considered by botanists as a native of England. Many cultivated varieties seem to have been introduced by the monks; remains of perry orchards attached to monasteries of the 14th and 15th centuries being not uncommon even in Scotland; and very ancient trees of the finer dessert pears, such as the Colmar and Longueville, occasionally occurring.

The list of cultivated pears amounts to more than 600 names; but the number of those truly desirable is not large. We shall specify some of the best dessert fruit, following the usual division of Early and Late; the former class being in season in the months of August, September and October, and the latter in November, December, and January. It is to be premised, however, that even within the limits of Britain, climate makes an important difference in the culture and ripening of pears, of which a remarkable and extreme example may be seen in the Chaumontelle,—a fruit which is produced abundantly, and ripened on standards in the west of England, and in the environs of London, while it requires a south wall near Edinburgh,

I. Early. Citron des Carmes, L. Hort. Cat. 190; Madaleine, Eind. p. 344, in Scotland often eaļled the Premature. This is the earliest pear; it ripens in July, acquiring a yellowish green colour; it is sweet, but without much flavour. One tree, or at most two trees, may suffice, It requires a sheltered situation.

The Green Chisel, called also the Hastings, and, in the market, the Green Sugar. This is not a first-rate pear; but the tree is hardy and a great bearer. It ripens in August.

The Summer Rose. A handsome round pear, of a russety red colour, much resembling an apple, flesh white, rich, and sugary. This is an excellent variety, succeeds ο» a standard, and ripens in August.

The Jargonelle of Britain is the Grosse Cuisse Madame of French horticultural writers, and the Epargne and Beau-present of French practical gardeners. This is the most common and most esteemed of our early autumn pears. Against a wall the fruit attains a large size and a beautiful appearance; but it is not of so high a flavour as from standards or espalier-rails. The fruit does not keep well, and the tree should therefore be planted in various situations to prolong its season, as it is rather difficult, when it disappears, immediately to supply its place. Beautiful dwarf tr t ecs may be formed by grafting on the common white them, which, however, are not very patient of transplanting. The French jargonelle is green on one side and red on the other, and is a fruit of inferior quality.

The Ananas d ’ Ete is scarcely noticed by our horticultural writers; but it seems a good variety to succeed the jargonelle. In the Experimental Garden at Edinburgh, it ripens on a standard in the second week of September. Mr Barnet describes it as of middle size, about two and a half inches broad, tapering a little towards the stalk, round at the top, eye small, slightly sunk in a cavity; red on the exposed side, green and somewhat russety on the other; flesh white, melting, with a pleasant sweet juice.

The Summer Erancréal, or the Yat of Holland, may be noticed as another pear to follow the jargonelle, as it ripens about the middle of September. The tree proves, in general, a great bearer.

The Longueville. Some very ancient trees of this variety exist at Jedburgh: and, in the garden of the Regent Murray at Edinburgh, there are several which apparently arc coeval with the times of the Regency. Though the name is now unknown in France, it is conjectured that the tree was brought over from that country by the Douglas, when Lord of Longueville, in the fifteenth century. The fruit is large, of a thick conical shape, green, and of considerable flavour. It ripens in September.

The Green Pear of Yair. This variety is of Scottish origin. The fruit is obovate, green, and of a middle size; flesh juiey and well-flavoured. It is sometimes placed on a wall to succeed the jargonelle; but it is always better from standards. On old trees, in light soils, it sometimes acquires a lemon colour, with a high musky flavour. Ripens in September and October.

The Duhamel is a good autumn pear, with a delicate flavour. It comes in immediately after the green yair, and helps to fill up a gap in the pear season, especially in Scotland,

The Seckle, of American origin, deserves a place; for the tree is of dwarfish size, and suited for a border standard, and it seldom fails to yield a crop. The fruit is small, but melting and well-flavoured. It does not keep.

The White Doyenné, This is an excellent sort, when used at its perfection. In warm situations, it is well adapted for dwarf standards. Ripens in September and October.

The Red Doyenne, or, as it is sometimes called, Gray Doyenne, is also an excellent autumn pear, doing best on a quince stock.

The Elton. Capital as a standard, and strongly recommended by Mr Knight. The tree produces healthy wood, and the fruit ripens in September and October.

The Early Bergamot was introduced from France in 1820. It is one of the very best early pears, as the tree bears freely on an open standard.

The Autumn Bergamot, or English Bergamot, has been long known as one of the most highly flavoured pears. It is not the Bergamotte d’Automne of the French, which is liable to canker in this country, while the English bergamot is not liable. In England the tree succeeds perfectly well as a standard; in Scotland, it answers in good seasons, but here it is deserving of a west wall. The fruit is of a depressed globular shape, not large; the flesh juicy, sugary and rich, a little gritty next the core. It ripens towards the end of October, but does not keep.

To the list of summer and early autumn pears might be added the Musk Robine, Summer Bonchretien, and Williams’s Bonchretien, requiring the protection of a wall; and the Lammas Pear of Scotland, “soon ripe, soon rotten,” which succeeds perfectly well on open standards; Ambrosia, Belle et Bonne, Beurré d’Amalis, Bishop’s Thumb, Caillot Rosat, and the Hazel Pear.

II. Late.

The Brown Beurré (Red and. Grey Buerré of various [7:11:647]authors). This is a first-rate melting pear. Against a wall with a good aspect, and with a fresh soil, the tree is an abundant bearer. Ripens in October and November.

The Beurré de Capiaumont. This is one of the best new Flemish varieties. The fruit is beautiful and well-flavoured. It ripens in October and November. The tree is a great bearer and hardy.

The Moorfowl Egg. There are two varieties, both of Scottish origin, of which the Galston Moor-fowl Egg is the best. The fruit is not attractive in appearance, but it is of admirable quality. The tree is hardy, and should be grown as a standard.

The Gansel’s Bergamot (sometimes called Brocas’ Bergamot). This noble pear, which has scarcely been rivalled, certainly not surpassed, by any of the imported varieties, is of English origin. Its blossoms are too tender to enable the tree to succeed as a standard; but it deserves a wall, and it should be placed on various aspects to prolong its season. The fruit ripens in November and December.

The Marie Louise. This excellent and large pear was raised by the Abbé Duquesne, and named after the Ex-Empress of France. “It is,” says Mr Thompson, “one of the very finest, even as a standard, on which it bears abundantly; it succeeds also well on a north wall.” In Scotland it is the better for an east or west aspect; but on a standard in a sheltered garden at Luffness, East Lothian, the fruit has attained the weight of 15 ounces. It ripens in October and November.

Beurré d , Aremberg. This most excellent pear was first brought into notice and recommended by the Caledonian Horticultural Society’s deputation in 1817 (Hort. Tour. p. 321). It is perfectly melting and without grittiness, and rich, sweet, and high-flavoured. The tree succeeds either trained against an east or a west wall, or as a standard in any sheltered situation.

Crasanne. An old French sort, of excellent quality, with a tender and finely flavoured pulp. The tree deserves an east or west aspect on the wall, and it succeeds also on an espalier-rail. The fruit ripens in November and December.

The Urbaniste is a very good variety, of a large size, and ovoglobular shape; skin of yellowish colour, with small russety spots; flesh white, melting, with a sweet well-flavoured juice. In Scotland ripens against a south wall by the beginning of November.

Colmar. This is a first-rate pear, with a white flesh, and of high flavour. In Scotland the tree requires a south wall. From this the Poire d’Auch of the Continent seems scarcely to differ. It keeps till February or March.

Passe Colmar. An admirable Flemish variety lately introduced into this country; of excellent flavour; hardier, and a more abundant bearer than the preceding, and more easily ripened. It is in maturity in December and January.

Poire Neill was raised by Μ. Van Mons of Louvain, about the time of the visit of the Caledonian Horticultural Society’s deputation to Belgium (in 1817)∙ It is a large handsome fruit, with a very white pulp, mellow, and abounding with a saccharine and slightly musky juice. It is in season during the month of October, and should be gathered a few days before it be ripe. The tree succeeds as a standard at Edinburgh, and bears freely.

The Easter Beurré. Fruit large, obovate, green and brown; flesh whitish-yellow, buttery, and extremely high-flavoured. “It is,” says Mr Thompson, “hardy and a good bearer; one of the most valuable Spring sorts, compared with which the early pears of short duration deserve not a wall; its extensive cultivation for a long and late supply is, without hesitation, strongly recommended.” In season from January to March. As the tree ripens its wood readily, it succeeds as a standard, even in Scotland, and yields fruit superior in flavour to that from -the walls.

Beurré Bance. A Flemish variety raised by the late Μ. Hardenpont; “the best very late sort yet known,” Hort. Cat. It ripens with difficulty in Scotland; but was found to be the best pear produced in competition at the meeting of the Caledonian Horticultural Society in the month of March 1835.

The following, respecting which our limits will not permit us to go into detail, may be considered as highly valuable sorts as late autumnal and winter pears :—Autumn Colmar, Aston-town, Echassery, Delices d’Hardenpont, Beurré Bose, Beurré Diel, Beurré Spence, Bezi Vaet, Bezi de la Motte, Chaumontelle, Sylvange, Downton, Glout Morceau, St Germain, Duchesse d’Angoulême, Louise bonne, Hacon’s Incomparable, Winter Nelis, Black Auchan, Swan Egg, Doyenné gris, Flemish Beauty, and Napoleon.

Some excellent new varieties of dessert pears have, of late years, been raised by Mr Taylor, gardener at Dunmore Park, under the directions of the noble proprietor, who is a scientific horticulturist. These have not yet been described or published; but the Dunmore Brown Beurré and Taylor’s Seedling have been found to be of the first quality.

Of the Kitchen Sorts, or stewing pears, we may name the Bellisime d’Hiver, Catillac, Uvedale’s St Germain, Warden or Black Worcester, and the Gilogil. These are placed on inferior walls, or upon espalier-rails, or kept as dwarf standards. The Uvedale’s St Germain fruit often attains a large size, especially against a wall.

Pear-trees are grafted either on what are called free-stocks or on dwarfing stocks: for the former, which are intended for full-sized trees, the seeds of the wilding pear should be sown; but frequently the pips of the perry pears, and sometimes of the common cultivated sorts, are used. For dwarfing, the quince is preferred; but the white-thorn, as already mentioned, is occasionally employed. Where the space is limited, or the ground is damp, the dwarfing stocks are the more suitable. It is a favourite doctrine with some, that by budding or grafting on quince or hawthorn, pears of too melting and sugary a quality acquire firmness and acidity; to what extent this holds good has not been correctly ascertained, but that the stock exerts a certain degree of influence on the fruit is beyond dispute. Some of the finer pears do not take readily on the quince. In this case double working is resorted to. For example, the Virgouleuse may be easily budded on the quince, and the Beurré d’ Aremberg will afterwards succeed freely on the Virgouleuse. It may be mentioned in passing, that the ancient horticulturists seem to have supposed that a fruit was improved by double working; and that the term reinette, a name applied to a class of apples, is considered as having been derived from the Latin renata, that is, a tree grafted upon itself.

In selecting young pear-trees, some prefer maiden plants, that is, plants one year grafted; but if good trees, trained for two or three years, can be procured, so much the better. It is important to ascertain that the stock and stem be clean and healthy, and to take great care that no injury be done by bruising or tearing the roots, in lifting and removing. The young trees may be planted at arty time, in mild ŵesther, from the fall of the leaf to the beginning of March. Wall-trees require from 25 to 30 feet of lineal space when on free stocks, and from 15 to 20 feet when dwarfed. Standards on free stocks in the orchard should be allowed at least 30 feet every way, while for dwarfs 15 feet may suffice. Where the trees are trained en pyramide or en quenouille, (see p. 637) they inay stand within eight feet of each other. It is very desirable that the pear orchard should be in a warm situation, with a soil deep, substantial, and well drained, or free from injurious latent moisture. Without attention to these circumstances, peartrees seldom succeed.
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The fruit is produced on spurs, which appear on shoots more than one year old; the object of the pruner, therefore, ought to be to procure a fair supply of these spurs. The mode of training wall pear-trees most commonly adopted is the horizontal; but each of the forms already mentioned (p. 638), has its advantages, and is peculiarly adapted to some particular habit of growth in the several varieties. For the St Germain, and other twiggy sorts, we should prefer the fan form; for the Gansel’s Bergamot, and other strong growers, the half-fan, or the horizontal. In the latter forms the trees may often be found fifteen, twenty, or even thirty years old, during which time they acquire an undue projection from the wall, and become scraggy and unmanageable. On the other hand, the finest fruit is produced on young spurs, clearly indicating the necessity of a frequent renovation of the spurs. This would lead us to prefer the fan-form, not, indeed, that which is commonly practised, and represented in fig. 5. p. 638, for in it the spurs are as immovable as in any other arrangement; but rather that recommended for peaches, in which there is a continual renewal of the branches. Or if we did adopt the horizontal form, which has certain advantages, it would be that modification exhibited in the right side of fig. 4. a, p. 638. This is the method followed by Harrison in treating the Jargonelle.

The summer pruning of established wall or espalier-rail trees, consists chiefly in the timely displacing or rubbing off of the superfluous shoots, retaining only those which are terminal, or well placed for lateral branches. Where spurs are wanted on the older wood, about two inches of a fore-right shoot are left; and if this be done early, that is before the shoot has become ligneous, it seldom fails to form fruit-buds. In horizontal training, the winter pruning is nothing more than adjusting the leading shoots, and thinning out the spurs, which should be kept close to the wall, and allowed to retain only two, or at most three buds. In fan-training, the subordinate branches must be regulated, the spurs thinned out, and the young laterals, which were loosely nailed in, during summer, must be finally established in their places. No crowding of branches should be permitted. Where horizontal trees have fallen into disorder, they may be renovated in the manner represented by fig. 466, left side, a procedure patronized by Mr Knight: or all the branches may be cut back to within nine inches of the vertical stem and branch, and trained in afresh, as recommended by Mr Lindley.

When some of the finer pear-trees produce an abundance of blossom, but do not set well, as not unfrequently happens, artificial impregnation may be partially resorted to; that is, the blossom of some other kind of pear, plentifully provided with pollen, is taken, and the farina is dusted over the best looking blossoms of the unproductive tree.

Summer and autumn pears should be gathered before they be fully ripe, otherwise they will not in general keep more than a few days. The Jargonelle, as Forsyth rightly advises, should be allowed to remain on the tree, and pulled daily as wanted, the standard fruit thus succeeding the produce of the wall trees. In reference to the Crasanne, Mr Lindley recommends gathering the crop at three different times, the first a fortnight or more before it be ripe, the second a week or ten days after, and the third when fully ripe. The first gathering will come into eating latest, and thus the season of the fruit may be considerably prolonged. It is evident that the same method may be followed with the Brown Beurré, Gansel’s Bergamot, and any other which continue only a short time in a mature state.

The APPLE-Tree (Pyrus Malus), under the name of the Crab, is a native of Britain. Most of the cultivated sorts, however, are of foreign origin, and it does not seem probable, that we possess at present any good variety which is more than two hundred years old. The finer, high-flavoured apples are prized for the dessert; the juicy and poignant sorts are in request for tarts and sauce; whilst those of a more austere nature are manufactured into cider. In the second edition of the London Hort. Society’s Catalogue, no fewer than 1400 varieties are enumerated ∙ many of them doubtless not well ascertained, but about 175 are pronounced to be first-rate sorts. With such a multitude before us, it would be vain to attempt detailed descriptions: we shall therefore do little more than give a classified list of those most worthy of attention, referring the reader for further information to the Catalogue itself, to Mr Lindley’s Guide to the Orchard and Kitchen Garden, and to Mr Rogers’ Fruit Cultivator. Table Apples.

The earliest of these are the following :—The Juneating, or White Geniton, which begins to ripen in the end of July, and, being sugary and slightly perfumed, forms a welcome addition to the dessert. The Early Red Margaret is often cultivated; it is sometimes called Red Juneating, and in Ireland Peach Apple. The Summer Crofton, or WTiite Crofton, is of Irish origin: the tree bears abundantly; and if the fruit be scarcely equal to the Juneatings for the dessert, it is very desirable for culinary purposes in August. The Thorle, originating in the Carse of Gowrie, is an early apple of considerable merit, although not mentioned by Mr Lindley. The Oslin or Arbroath Pippin, and the Early Julien of Clydesdale, also deserve notice. The Summer Golden Pippin, the Red Quarenden of Devonshire, and the Summer Calville, are likewise excellent early dessert apples.

To succeed these in the autumn we have many fine sorts, such as the Early Nonpareil or Hick’s Fancy; the Red Ingestrie and Yellow Ingestrie, raised by Mr Knight; the Doonside, a capital Ayrshire production; Autumn Pearmain or Royal Pearmain of the London nurseries; Shepherd’s Fame; Baird’s Favourite; Pomme de Niege; and Bourassa; Franklin’s Golden Pippin; Old Golden Pippin; King of the Pippins or Hampshire Yellow; Please Lady; Kerry Pippin, one of the finest Irish apples; and the Cole Apple or Scarlet Perfumed.

The winter dessert apples are very numerous, so that only a few can be mentioned. The Ribston Pippin has long maintained a pre-eminent character for its rich juiciness and highly aromatic flavour. If the tree be trained to a wall, the fruit is much improved in size and beauty; but Mr Rogers, in his Fruit Cultivator, is decidedly wrong in thinking that it is heightened in flavour; for, on the contrary, the flavour is deteriorated. The Ribston is an old variety; and there is reason to fear that, like the Grey Leadington (formerly the boast of Scottish orchards), it is verging to decay and extinction. Hubbard’s Pearmain is a Norfolk apple of the very finest quality, and too little known, especially in Scotland; the tree does not grow large, is quite hardy, and an abundant bearer, either as a standard, or when trained to an espalier-rail. The Dutch Mignonne is another admirable dessert apple, too little known or attended to. The Golden Harvey, or Brandy Apple of Forsyth, is a beautiful fruit, and Mr Lindley characterizes it as rich, juicy, spicy, and high-flavoured: the tree is not a large grower, is very hardy, and a great and constant bearer; and no garden, adds Mr Lindley, “capable of containing ten trees, ought to be without one of it.” The Downton Pippin, raised by Mr Knight from the orange pippin of Herefordshire, dusted with the pollen of the old golden pippin, must not be omitted. The tree is a great bearer; the fruit ripens in the end of October and keeps till January; it has a brisk, subacid juice, which becomes saccharine. The fruit should not be gathered until it [7:11:649] has acquired a bright yellow colour, and part freely from the tree. To these may be added the Beachamwell Seedling; Borsdorffer; Court of Wick Pippin; Wood’s Transparent; Margil; Newton Pippin; Scarlet Crofton; Golden Pearmain; Scarlet Pear main; Gravenstein; Paradise Pippin; Old Nonpareil; Ross Nonpareil; Scarlet Nonpareil; Golden Rennet; Reinette de Canada; Sykehouse Russet; and the Sam Young, an excellent Irish apple, brought into notice by Mr Robertson of Kilkenny.

Kitchen Apples.

These are very numerous, and the names of a few of the best can only be given. We begin with the Scottish Hawthornden; though the tree is liable to canker, yet it comes early into bearing, and the fruit is excellent. The Codlins may be next named, particularly the Spring Grove, the Kentish or Fillbasket, the Keswick, the Dutch, and the Manks. Dumelow’s Seedling, the Fulwood, the Green Fulwood of Mr Mathew, the Nonsuch, Minshul Crab, Hanwell Souring, Cat’s-head, Alexander, Brabant Bellefleur, Blenheim Pippin, Hunt-house of Yorkshire, Norfolk Beaufin, and Forman’s Crewe, are all good. Among the best long-keeping apples are the Scottish Gogar Pippin or Stone Pippin; and the Yorkshire Greening and Northern Greening, particularly the latter; Winter Strawberry Apple; Winter Lud; Cambusnethan Pippin; Tower of Glammis; the Alderstone Pippin of East-Lothian, and the Lady Wemyss of Fifeshire. An apple called the French Crab (but which is of considerable size, notwrthstanding this name), keeps firm in pulp till the return of the apple season; and the subvariety of this, called Hambledon’s, is described in Ronalds’ Pomona as still superior.

Some excellent new varieties of apples have of late years been produced both in England and Scotland. Mr I lardy of Bothkennar, by crossing the Court of Wick Pippin with the Nonpareil, has raised seedlings partaking of the good qualities of both parents, and these have received the warmest approval of the Scottish Horticultural Society.

It may be mentioned, that information respecting the fruits cultivated for the manufacture of cider and perry, may be obtained in the Pomona Herefordiensis, published by Mr Knight, and illustrated with engravings by the late Mr W. Hooker. Cider is principally made in Herefordshire and Gloucestershire, which are called the cider counties; but much is also produced in Devonshire. For the encouragement of its manufacture in Scotland, premiums have been offered by the Caledonian Horticultural Society, but little good Scottish cider has hitherto appeared.

Several kinds of stocks are used for apple-trees. The Dutch Paradise, propagated by layers, has long been used as a stock for dwarf apple-trees, whether intended for the wall or for standards. The Doucin of the French seems closely allied to this, if not identical with it. The bur-knot varieties increased by cuttings, or young codlin plants procured from layers, furnish stocks for the trees from which it is desired to raise new seedlings. For common purposes, the stocks raised from the pips of crabs or of cider apples arc preferred. Stocks kept one or two years in nursery lines arc fit for grafting upon; but if a considerably tall stem is wished, they must remain three or four years in the nursery, or till they attain five or six feet of height. In the Dutch nurseries, where apple-trees are trained for some years to the cup-shape, the table, the pyramidal, or the round forms, before they are sold to the public, the trees are repeatedly transplanted; but with us, where such forms are less sought after, the utility of more transplantations than from the seed-bed to the nursery lines, and thence to the garden, may, in Mr Knight’s opinion, be questioned. Any common soil, provided the subsoil be dry, suits the apple-tree. Shallow planting should in all cases be practised.

The fruit, as in the pear-tree, is produced on Spurs, which come out on the branchlets of two or more years growth, and continue fertile for a series of years. There is, therefore, no material difference in the pruning and training of the pear and of the apple tree. On walls, the horizontal mode of training is commonly followed, as best calculated to repress the vigorous growth of the tree; but for the nonpareil, and other twiggy varieties, perhaps the fan-form, or some modification of the fan-form, is preferable. For standards, where the soil is rich and the growth rapid, all that is necessary in pruning is to thin out the branches, and to prevent their crossing each other. Where there is little luxuriance, and in the case of all dwarfs, it is usefill to shorten the branches occasionally, and to remove useless twigs. Dwarfs on paradise stocks may be treated almost like currant bushes, to the great advantage both of the size and beauty of the fruit. The winter pruning may take place any time from the beginning of November to the end of March. Cankered or diseased wood, and all unfruitful snags or rugged spurs, are then to be neatly cut out.

If the American blight, or woolly aphis (the Eriosoma Mali of Leach) make its appearance on a tree, the utmost care should be taken to clean every part of the bark with a hard brush and some searching wash; for, should the insect be left unmolested, it will speedily spread over all the apple-trees in the neighbourhood. Indeed, the pest is so grievous, that the sacrifice of two or three trees is a small price to pay for its removal.

For the storing of Pears and Apples, there should be attached to every considerable garden a commodious fruit-room, well ventilated, furnished with fire-places or stoves to exclude frost, and fitted up with a variety of shelves. A northern aspect is the most suitable; and it is also desirable that there should be a dry, cool cellar under it, to be employed in retarding the ripening of some of the fugitive varieties. All the fruit intended for keeping should be plucked with the hand, or with such an implement as the fruit-gatherer invented by Mr Saul of Lancaster. The finer dessert fruits should be laid on shelves made of hard wood, not of fir, and covered with cartridge or writing paper, to prevent their imbibing any taint from the wood. The kitchen fruit may be kept in layers two or three deep, but not in heaps, and should be occasionally examined, when decaying fruit is to be removed. The sweating of apples and pears, formerly much practised, is now abandoned, as being attended with no useful effects.

The Quince (Pyms Cydonia), allied to the apple, is a native of the south of Germany. It is but little cultivated in Britain. The fruit, which is austere when raw, is used to give flavour and poignancy to stewed or baked apples. The two principal sorts are the Portugal Quince and the Pear Quince, of which the latter is the most productive, while it serves the usual culinary purposes equally well as the other. Quinces may be propagated by layers or cuttings, or by grafting. Two or three trees planted in the slip or orchard, arc in general sufficient. In Scotland, the fruit seldom approaches maturity, unless favoured by a wall.

The Medlar (Mespilus Germamea) is a native of the south of Europe, but has been naturalized in some parts of the south of England. The varieties worth notice are, the Dutch Medlar, with broad leaves; and the Nottingham Medlar, with narrow leaves: of these, the latter is considered the best. The fruit is gathered in November, and kept till it begin to decay, when it is served up in the dessert, and highly relished by some. The treatment recommended for the quince may be applied to the medlar.

The Service-tree (Pyms domestica) is a native of the [7:11:650]mountainous parts of Cornwall, and, though not much cultivated, may here be noticed. The fruit has a peculiar acid flavour, and is used only when thoroughly mellowed by keeping. There is a pear-shaped, and also an appleshaped variety, both of which may be propagated by layers, and still better on seedling plants of their own kind. Two or three trees may have a place in the orchard, or perhaps in a sheltered corner of the lawn. The tree is seldom productive till it have arrived at a goodly age. The fruit is brought to Covent-Garden Market in winter; but it is never seen at Edinburgh. Near Paris, the tree is a good deal cultivated under the name of cormier; and there are a number of varieties of the service grown in the north of Italy.

The Mulberry (Morus nigra) is a native of Persia, and in this country requires a warm sheltered situation. The fruit is in request for the dessert during the months of August and September, having a rich aromatic flavour, and a fine subacid juice. Where it is abundant, wine is made from it. In Devonshire, a little of the juice added to full-bodied cider, produces a delicious beverage, called Mulberry Cider, which retains its flavour for many months. The mulberry is propagated from cuttings or layers, but, to expedite the production of fruit, it is useful to march small bearing branches on stocks prepared in flower-pots. Mulberry standard trees succeed only in the southern counties. These require no other training than an occasional thinning out of the branches. They are generally planted on grassy lawns, so that when ripe fruit falls from the higher branches, it can be gathered without having sustained injury. In the middle districts, espalier-rails may be employed, particularly under the reflection of a south wall. In colder situations, the mulberry must be treated as a wall-tree; and it has been recommended that the bearing shoots should be trained perpendicularly downwards. Mr Knight strongly advises the forcing of this fruit in flower-pots, much in the same way as is done with figs. The mulberry as a fruit is little known in Scotland; but a few aged trees exist in old gardens, and, in favourable seasons, afford their fruit.

The Hazel (Corylus Avellana), one of our indigenous fruits, is the original parent of the Filbert, Cob-nut, Cosford-nut, Frizzled, and other improved varieties. These succeed best on a rich, dry loam, carefully worked, and receiving from time to time a slight manuring. They are generally planted in the slips, but thrive best in a quarter by themselves. The varieties are propagated by layers or suckers; but where there are stocks of the common hazel, the other kinds may be grafted upon them. The Cosford is generally preferred, being thin-shelled and having a kernel of high flavour.

The neighbourhood of Maidstone in Kent has long been celebrated for the culture of nuts for the London market; and as the best Kentish practice is scarcely known in other parts of Britain, we may enter a little into detail. The young plants are almost always suckers from old bushes, and are planted about ten or twelve feet apart. They are suffered to grow without restraint for about three years, and are then cut down to within a few inches of the ground. They push out five or six shoots; and these in their second year are shortened one-third. A hoop is then placed within the branches, and the shoots are fastened to it at nearly equal distances. In the spring of the fourth year, all the laterals are cut off close by the principal stems, and from these cut places short shoots proceed, on which fruit is expected in the following year. Those which have borne fruit are removed by the knife, and an annual supply of young shoots is thus obtained. The leading shoots are always shortened about two-thirds, and every bearing twig is tipped. In the early spring pruning, a supply of male blossoms is left, and suckers are carefully eradicated. These Kentish nut-plantations somewhat resemble large quarters of gooseberry bushes, few of their trees exceeding six feet in height. The curious reader may be referred, for additional information, to the paper, on this subject by the Rev. Mr Williamson, in the 4th volume of the Transactions of the London Horticultural Society.

The Walnut (Juglans regid) is a native of Persia, and the south of the Caucasus, and the fruit therefore seldom comes to complete maturity, except in the warmer districts of Britain. Besides the common walnut, there are several varieties cultivated, particularly the Large-fruited or Double Walnut, the Tender-shelled, and the Highflyer, which last is said (Land. Hort. Trans, iv. 517) to be “by far the best walnut grown.” The varieties can be propagated with certainty only by inoculating; but the operation is rather nice, and not unfrequently fails. Mr Knight’s method is described in the London Transactions, vol. iii. p. 133. Plants raised from the seed seldom become productive till they be twenty years old. The fruit is produced at the extremities of the shoots of the preceding year; and therefore in gathering the crop, care should be taken not to injure the young wood. In Kent, the trees are thrashed with rods or poles; but this is a rough, and far from being a commendable, mode of collecting the nuts.

The Chestnut (Castanea vesea), like the preceding, has long been an inmate of our woods, in which it grows to a great size; but it seldom ripens its fruit in the northern parts of the island. Several varieties, remarkable for their productiveness and early bearing, have of late years risen into notice; particularly Knight’s Prolific, and the New Prolific. These are propagated by grafting upon stocks raised from nuts; and when grafts are taken from bearing wood, fruit may be produced in a couple of years. The tree thrives best on a dry subsoil.

small fruits.

The Red, White, and Black Currant, the Gooseberry, the Raspberry, the Strawberry, and Cranberry, are usually cultivated in our gardens, under the title of Small Fruits. Their economical uses in cookery, confectionary, and in the manufacture of home-made wines, attach to them considerable importance, and render a separate, however brief, account of them desirable.

The Ribes rubrum, Lin. includes as its varieties our Red and White Currants. The principal subvarieties are:

Common Red, Champagne,

Red Dutch, Common White,

Knight’s Sweet Red, Dutch White.

Red and white currants are readily propagated by cuttings. They succeed in any sort of common garden soil; but seem to thrive best in warm moist situations, where they enjoy an abundance of air. A few plants are sometimes placed against walls, on which they are trained perpendicularly. Currants are sometimes planted in single lines in the borders which separate the plots in the kitchen garden; but it is generally better to confine them to compartments by themselves. In these they are arranged in quincunx order, at six feet between the lines, and six feet in the line. They may be transplanted at any time between the fall of the leaf and the first movement of the sap. They are trained en buisson, from single stalks of about a foot in height, care being taken to prevent the main branches from crossing each other. In winter the young bearing [7:11:651]wood on the sides of the branches is shortened down into spurs, from an inch to two inches in length. The leading shoots are left about six inches long. Some careful cultivators reduce the young shoots to about half their length as soon as the fruit begins to colour, an operation which is found to increase the size and improve the flavour of the berries.

Of Ribes nigrum, Lin. or black currant, there are several varieties, of which we need mention only the Common Black, and the Black Naples. The latter is the preferable sort. The black currant thrives in a moist, deep soil, and shady situation. Its culture is much the same as that of the other currants, but the young shoots are not spurred. All the pruning necessary is to keep the branches free of each other, and to promote a succession of young wood.

The Gooseberry —Botanists distinguish two species: Tibes Grossularia, or rough-fruited gooseberry; and Ribes uva crispi, or smooth-fruited gooseberry. The gooseberry has always been a favourite fruit in Great Britain, and is said to be produced, in the middle districts, in greater perfection than in any other part of the world. Many very large sorts have originated in Lancashire, where the culture has been carried to a high degree of refinement; but it is to be regretted that weight seems, absurdly enough, to be regarded, in the prize competitions, as the sole criterion of excellence. Berries of twenty or even twenty-four pennyweights are boasted of; but such are always inferior in flavour. The following are some of those sorts recommended in the catalogue of the Lond. Hort. Society. Red. — Red Champagne or Ironmonger, Crown Bob, Small Red Globe, Keen’s Seedling, Lord of the Manor, Miss Bold, Leigh’s Rifleman, Red Warrington, Wellington’s Glory.

Yellow. — Yellow Ashton, Yellow Ball, Yellow Champagne, Golden Yellow, Smiling Beauty, Smooth Yellow, Yellowsmith.

IF7z⅛e.—Bright Venus, White Champagne, Cheshire Lass, Crystal, White Crystal, White Damson, White Honey, Whitesmith.

Green. — Green Gascoigne, Pitmaston Green Gage, Green Seedling, Langley Green, Late Green, Green Laurel, Gregory’s Perfection, Green Walnut.

Some admirable new varieties have of late years been raised in Scotland, particularly in Perthshire: the Delvine Porcupine and Delvine Ironmonger are not surpassed by the finest of the English productions.

In forming his collection, the horticulturist should especially select a few early and a few late sorts, and, by properly disposing the bushes in various situations in his garden, he may prolong the fruit season by several weeks. The same object may be further promoted by defending the late sorts from the attacks of wasps, by surrounding the bushes with bunting (the thin stuff of which ships’ flags are often made), and by covering up the bushes with mats. This contrivance, however, answers better with currants than with gooseberries.

The gooseberry-bush affects a loose rich soil, which readily imbibes, but does not retain much moisture. We have seen it succeed perfectly well on little more than pure sand which was free from gravel. It thrives in any common garden soil. Gooseberries, like currants, may be grown in lines or compartments. They are propagated by cuttings, and are transplanted, in open weather, during any of the winter months. They are trained with single stems, from six inches to a foot high; and all suckers, which are apt to spring up from the roots, are carefully removed. Formerly it was the practice in Scotland to spur all the annual wood; but now the black currant system of pruning is more generally and advantageously followed. The ground on which the bushes stand is carefully digged once a-year; and manure, when necessary, is at the same time added. Nothing more is requisite than to keep down weeds, and to prevent the attacks of caterpillars, by picking them off on their first appearance. Gooseberry plants are sometimes trained on walls or espaliers, to accelerate the ripening, or increase the size of the fruit.

The Raspberry (Rubus Idaeus) is, like the preceding small fruits, a native of Great Britain. The principal varieties are:

Red Antwerp, Common Red,

Yellow Antwerp, Cornish,

Barnet, Williams’ Double-bearing.

Of these, the first two have never been surpassed, and are generally sufficient for all common purposes. Raspberries are propagated from sμekers, which are planted in rows five or six feet apart, and at three feet from each other in the rows. The fruit is produced on small branches which proceed from the shoots of the former year. Every year they throw up a number of shoots from the root, which bear fruit the subsequent year, and then die. In dressing the plants in winter, all the decayed stalks are cut away, and of the young shoots only three or four of the strongest are left, which are shortened about a third. These, as they are too weak to stand of themselves, are sometimes connected together by the points in the manner of arches, and sometimes they are attached to a stake. Perhaps the best support is obtained by fastening the points of the shoots to a slight horizontal rail or bar about four feet high, and placed a foot and a half on the south side of the row s. By this means the bearing shoots are deflected from the perpendicular to the sunny side of the row, and are not shaded by the annual wood. The ground between the rows is well digged in winter, and kept clean. Fresh plantations of raspberries should be made every six or seven, years. The double-bearing varieties, which continue to bear during autumn, require light soils and warm situations. It may be mentioned that the crop of any of the varieties may be retarded by breaking off the points of the bearing shoots at an early period in spring; but, like all other fruits, its flavour is highest when it is allowed to ripen at its natural season.

The Strawberry (Fragaria) belongs to the same natural family as the raspberry. Amongst the numerous kinds cultivated in our gardens, botanists have distinguished several species, but as these distinctions imply no difference in culture, and as it is difficult to trace them amid the “sportings” of the hybrids, we shall not pretend to enumerate them. Scarcely any plant more readily slides into seminal varieties; and indeed, till lately, in consequence of the irregular prevalence of local names, their whole nomenclature was a chaos of confusion. At the instance of the Horticultural Society of London, Mr Barnet, now of the Experimental Garden, Edinburgh, undertook a revision of the subject, and, with great acuteness and discrimination, has removed much ambiguity, and, as we hope, has finally settled the names of the existing varieties. His paper, which is well worth the perusal of every student of horticulture, is in the 6th volume of the London Transactions. In the second edition of the Catalogue of the Lond. Horticultural Society no fewer than 112 varieties are enumerated. But the following are sufficient, and an asterisk is prefixed to those most worthy of cultivation in small gardens.

American Scarlet, Black Roseberry,

Coul Late Scarlet, Elton,

• Grove End Scarlet, β Knevett’s, β Old Scarlet or Virginian, Sweet Cone,

• Roseberry, * Keen’s Seedling, [7:11:652]Taylor’s incomparable, ’ Large Flat Hautbois, * Old Pine or Carolina, ∙ Prolific Hautbois.

Wilmot’s Superb, * Alpine, red and white,

Black Hautbois, Wood, red and white.

The strawberry plant is propagated from runners or from seed. When runners are employed, they are sometimes planted in autumn, or rather as soon as they have struck root into the ground. Most commonly, however, they are permitted to remain unseparated from the parent plants till spring; a practice which debilitates the old plants, and prevents the earth between the rows from being stirred. As, upon the whole, spring planting seems preferable, it would perhaps be well to adopt the practice of some gardeners, who are at pains to prick out the offsets, as soon as they are rooted, into beds of rich soil, from which they are transplanted into their proper places early in the spring.

The desire of new varieties has encouraged the practice of propagating by seed; and Keen, Knevett, and others, have been extremely successful. Mr Knight having observed that the young runners of the alpine strawberry flower and ripen fruit the first year, was led to adopt this mode of reproduction, and has followed it with the happiest success. Early in spring he sows the seed in flower-pots, which are put into a hot-bed; and as soon as the plants have attained a sufficient size, they are transplanted into the open ground. They begin to blossom soon after midsummer, and continue to produce fruit till they be interrupted by frost. Thus Mr Knight is inclined to treat the alpine strawberry as an annual plant. The same practice has been recommended in France by Μ. Morel de Vindé (Cal. Hort. Mem. vol. iii.), but he very properly preserves his plants for three years, sowing every year a successional crop. Mr Keen has applied this method of culture to the wood strawberry, and we doubt not but it might be extended with beneficial effects to the Old Scarlet and others of the less artificial varieties.

A clayey soil or strong loam is considered as best suited to strawberries. On a sandy or very light soil they seldom succeed; and in close situations, and over-manured ground, most varieties produce little else than leaves. Before planting, the ground is manured and trenched or digged over deeply, and when stiff and compact, is very carefully worked. Keen and others in the neighbourhood of London, grow their strawberries in beds, three rows in each, with an alley between them. The market gardeners of Edinburgh, who, in the culture of this fruit, are perhaps not excelled by any, plant in rows two feet asunder, and from a foot to fifteen inches in the rows. When the weather is dry, the young plants are watered till they be well established. As little fruit is produced the first year, a line of carrots, onions, or other vegetable, is often sown between the rows for one season. In May the runners are cut off, with the view of promoting the swelling of the fruit. During dry weather, careful cultivators water their plants while in flower, and particularly after the fruit is set, and occasionally till it begin to colour. The old practice, from which the fruit derives its name, of putting straw between the rows to prevent the soiling of the fruit, has been recently revived; and where there are lawns, the short cut grass may be employed for the same purpose. As soon as the fruit season is over, the runners are again removed; the straw or grass is taken away, and the ground hoed and raked. In October the runners, the reclining, but not the erect, leaves are cut away, and the surface of the earth is stirred with a three-pronged fork, great care being taken not to injure the roots. Strawberries may be raised from the same ground for an indefinite space of time, but the plants should be renewed every third or fourth year. In the garden they are generally put in a quarter by themselves, and it should be one fully exposed to the sun and air. The alpine and wood varieties may be placed in situations rather moist and shady, as edgings in the slips, or in rows behind walls and hedges, in which situations they succeed perfectly well, and produce fruit late in the season.

Strawberries have always been a favourite dessert fruit. They likewise form an excellent preserve; and from their freedom from excess of acid, seem well adapted to the manufacture of native wine. To this purpose they have been only partially employed; but the samples of strawberry wine which we have tasted had more of the vinous flavour, than any other of our home-made wines. The culture of strawberries is the most lucrative part of the employment of the market gardener, at least near large towns. It is not uncommon for him to realize a clear profit of L.30 or L.40, or even more, per acre, of strawberry ground. The greater the diligence and assiduity of the cultivator, the greater will be his returns. It is a common and just remark, that too little labour is, in general, expended upon strawberries, and by the ignorant and unskilful gardener least of all.

Strawberries are easily forced. The Old Scarlet, Grove End, and Keen’s Seedling, are most suitable for this purpose. They are potted in April, with rich soil, two or three young plants being put into each pot eight or ten inches in diameter. During summer they are kept in a warm situation and encouraged to grow, the flowers and runners being carefully picked off. In the beginning of winter they are sheltered in cold frames, and are afterwards successively placed into hot-beds or forcing-houses, so as to keep up a succession. The air is kept moist, and they are plentifully supplied with water. Where the means are abundant, a moderate supply of fruit may be maintained during the late winter and the spring months.

Cranberry. The culture of the American Cranberry ( Vaccinium macrocarporì) was introduced by the late Sir Joseph Banks, and deserves particular notice, for it is altogether overlooked by Lindley and other horticultural writers. The plant is distinguished by the smoothness of its stems, and the largeness of its fruit. It grows freely, and produces its fruit readily in any damp situation; but where there is a pond, it may be cultivated with the greatest success. On the margin of the pond stakes are driven in, a short way within the water line; boards are so placed against these as to prevent the soil of the cranberry-bed from falling into the water. A layer of small stones is deposited in the bottom, and over these, peat or bog earth, mixed with sand, to the extent of about three or four inches above, and half a foot below the usual surface of the water. Plants of the American cranberry placed on this bed, soon cover the whole surface. There is a variety which is very shy in yielding its fruit, and this should, of course, be avoided. From a bed thirty or forty feet in length by five or six in breadth, a quantity of berries may be procured, sufficient for the supply of a family throughout the year. The fruit is easily preserved in bottles. The native Cranberry ( Vaccinium Oxycoccos) may be treated in the same manner, and in some places is very successfully cultivated. At Culzean Castle, the seat of the Earl of Cassilis, in Ayrshire, the cranberry ground is surrounded by a ditch, the water from which is made to filter through among stones and stakes to the interior, so as to keep the cranberry plants constantly supplied with moisture. In the same garden a second compartment is dedicated to small fruits of this class, having in the centre a rock- ι work planted with Whortle-berries (Vaccinium vitis-idoea), and around the rockwork beds of American Cranberry, of Scottish Cranberry, and of Crowberry (Empetrum nigrum), also native.

The following plants produce fruit, some of them abundantly in a wild state; others sparingly in our gardens, but [7:11:653]they can scarcely be said to come within the province of Horticulture: Berberis vulgaris, the Barberry; Sambucus nigra, the Elder; Prunus spinosa, the Sloe; P. insititia, the Bullace; and Rubus Chamoemorus, the Cloudberry.

THE FORCING GARDEN

Is only a department, but an important one, of the Fruit Garden. The term forcing is strictly applicable only to those artificial processes by which vegetation is in a considerable degree accelerated; but in common language it has been applied to all those operations in which glazed frames or houses are concerned, though they may be employed merely in aiding the common progress of nature. For the sake of convenience, we shall adopt the term in its broadest acceptation. After some preliminary observations we shall first speak of the structures, and then of the fruits and vegetables which are cultivated in them.

The principal object of hot-houses, and other structures of a similar nature, is to produce an artificial temperature and humidity of the atmosphere, which shall resemble, as nearly as possible, the climate in which the fruits or plants naturally grow. A command of heat is obviously a primary requisite. A regulated admission of air, and the presence of a certain degree of moisture, are in the next place necessary. Lastly, without the free access of light, plants become blanched or are destroyed by the moisture which they generate. These, then, are the conditions which limit the form of hot-houses; when these are attained, any form may be adopted which invention can devise, or wealth execute; but every true lover of the art will aim at simplicity, and will deprecate useless expenditure, so often exhibited in this department, as injurious to the character as well as to the progress of horticulture.

Artificial Heat. Forcing-houses are heated by means of flues conveying smoke and heated air; by pipes conducting steam or hot-water; by so constructing the glazed house as to increase the action of the rays of the sun; and sometimes by the fermentation of vegetable substances.

Flues are generally constructed of common brick, though occasionally fire-brick is employed in the neck, or that part of the flue immediately adjoining the furnace. The bricks in the side walls are placed on their edges, and the top covering is of tile an inch and a half in thickness. In districts where sandstone-flag abounds, the covers are often formed of it. Horticultural writers have recommended that flues should be about eighteen inches deep, and of nearly equal breadth; but to obtain the greatest quantity of heat, it clearly appears from the experiments of Mr Stevenson (Cal. Hort. Mem.ï. 143), that, where possible, the breadth should be nearly double the depth. It is advantageous to detach flues as much as possible from the walls of the building which incloses them, in order that the heat may be communicated to the air only. Formerly they were often built, sometimes one above another, with only one side exposed, a practice which, as it occasioned great waste of heat from conduction, has been generally abandoned. When it is necessary to lead one flue above another, or to make it return upon itself, spaces should be left between them, to allow the free emission of caloric from every side.

With a view to economy of fuel, can-flues and cast-iron cylinders have been proposed, and occasionally adopted, hut their use has not hitherto become general. The arrangement of flues depends upon the nature of the house; it may, however, be remarked generally, that as heated air has a tendency to ascend, they should be placed as near as can be done with convenience to the front of the house, where, of course, the sloping roof is lowest. It is likewise useful to introduce a flue at that part of the structure which is most exposed to any refrigerating influence.

The furnace is most properly situate behind the house» and is generally covered by a shed. For the most part it is constructed so that the upper part of its arch shall be on a level with the top of the flue; but where a considerable heat is required, as in pine stoves, it is found preferable to sink the furnace, in order to produce a neck or rise of about a foot and a half in height, which moderates the intensity of the heat on its first entrance, and, by increasing the draught, causes the fire to burn freely. The size of the furnace depends upon the kind of fuel employed. Where coke or charcoal is used, it may be about eighteen inches square; but where small-coal, turf, or peat is to be burned, it should be two feet or even two and a half square, by two feet in height. A large furnace ensures the continuance of the fire, a fact which in practice has received too little attention. To resist the effects of heat, the interior should be lined with fire-brick. The roof should be strongly arched. The door may be about a foot square, and when it is double, as it ought always to be, the outer half should be a little larger than the inner. The grate is of the same breadth as the door, and may extend about two-thirds of the length of the furnace. The ash-pit is equally wide, and from fifteen to eighteen inches deep; it is furnished with a ventilator in the door to regulate the admission of air. In practice the furnace, and especially the ash-pit, should be kept clear of ashes; as by this means, coals of an inferior quality may be burnt with ease. We know an instance in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, where a number of large furnaces were maintained for several years by the mere refuse of a coal-yard attached to the mansion of a considerable family.

In Plate CCXC. fig. 1 and 2, are given a longitudinal section and plan of the common garden furnace. It is surrounded by a double wall to prevent the escape of heat.

Mr Witty has invented a new furnace, which is possessed of valuable qualities. A vertical section of it is given in Plate CCXC. fig. 3. The fuel is supplied by the door at a, and is pressed down the inclined plane towards the grate c, by an apparatus placed at the head of it; but this method being complicated, has given way to several modifications, in which the door a has been found the most useful, the fuel being pressed forward by the common tools used for feeding furnaces: b is the door for regulating the fuel on the grate c. In its progress, the whole surface of the coal along the inclined plane is constantly kept in a state of inflammation, the flame having naturally a tendency to burn upwards. In this way the greater part of the fresh coal is carbonised, that is, the gas is separated from it and inflamed, leaving only coke. The strong combustion of the coke at the grate produces heat enough to carbonise the coal, and air enough to inflame the gas. Thiá furnace, therefore, not only consumes the smoke, but effects a considerable saving of fuel.

Steam. Of late years steam has been applied with success to the production of an artificial climate in glazed houses. It is more genial than fire-heat from flues, being less contaminated, and more equable and pliant in its distribution. In steam hot-houses the plants can scarcely ever be liable to suffer from scorching heat; the air continues pure and untainted, and persons visiting the house are much less liable to be annoyed by the smell of smoke and soot. It is neater in ail its arrangements within doors, and precluding, without, the necessity of more than one furnace, and one chimney top, in a great measure removes the unseemliness of the heaps of coals and ashes with which common furnaces are usually surrounded. In districts where coals are dear, the saving of fuel is an object; and it has been found that seven bushels of coals go as far in keeping up steam heat, as ten bushels do in maintaining an equal temperature in the ordinary way. By merely opening a valve, the house may at any time be effectually steamed, that is, filled with tłie steam or vapour, and the?
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warm moisture thus applied to the plants, is observed to contribute remarkably to their health and vigour. To counterbalance these advantages, we are not aware of any defects, except such as may arise from the greater complexity of the apparatus, or at least its liability to disrepair and accident.

Steam is generated in a cast or wrought iron boiler, of an oblong form, furnished with safety-valves, and heated by a smoke-consuming furnace. As in the common steam-engine, the boiler is supplied from a cistern above, and is made to regulate itself by a simple contrivance. In the feed-head is a valve, which is opened by the sinking of a float, which descends in proportion as the water is dissipated in steam; and, being balanced by a weight, whenever a sufficient quantity of water is admitted, rises again, and shuts the valve. As steam may be conveyed, without materially impairing its calorific powers, to the distance of several thousand feet, one boiler is sufficient for heating all the glazed houses which are ever erected together; but a second is generally kept in readmess, to act as an auxiliary in case of accident, or in very severe weather. Steam is conducted from the boiler in a single main pipe, or in two parallel pipes, which, according to Mr Tredgold, may be only one inch in bore. The divarications of the pipes into particular houses are arranged somewhat in the manner of flues, and, indeed, are sometimes placed within these, or on them, when they already exist, as in Plate CCXCIII, fig. 3, below the passage d. These interior pipes are from three to six inches in diameter, in order to afford a greater radiating surface, and are supplied with sets of valves to admit, regulate, and exclude the heated vapour, according to circumstances.

The most perfect and extensive examples of steam-apparatus exist at Syon-House, the princely seat of the Duke of Northumberland, near Brentford, and in the nurserygarden of Messrs Loddiges at Hackney. At the latter place, glazed houses, to the extent of almost a thousand feet in length, and forming three sides of a square, are heated solely by steam from one boiler. The boiler is of an oblong shape, measuring eleven feet by four, and is made of mailcable iron. In certain narrow houses, intended by Messrs Loddiges for greenhouse plants, a single steam-pipe is found sufficient. In other houses of considerable height and breadth, or where a higher temperature is required, as in the palm-house, the steam flue is made to describe two or three turns.

Water, contained in large vessels or pipes, is sometimes heated by steam, and so made the medium of conveying caloric to the atmosphere of glazed houses. Fig. 13, Plate CCXC., represents an instance of this arrangement. A small steam-tube, one inch in diameter, enters a water-pipe eight inches in diameter, and twenty-eight feet long, wholly within the forcing-house; it passes into the larger pipe at the centre, and after traversing its ∖yhole length and returning, it issues out immediately below the point at which it entered. It then forms a siphon, by which the condensed water is conveyed away. A more detailed description may be found in the Lond. Hort. Mem., vol. iii. Applications of it are given in Plate CCXCII., fig. 6, a, and Plate CCXCIII., fig. 3, below the passage c.

Steam is sometimes employed to furnish bottom heat. In the garden of Mr Sturge, near Bath, a shallow cistern of water is heated by a steam-pipe, in the manner exhibited in Plate CCXC., figs. 15, 16. The cistern is covered with pavement, over which is a bed of small stones, then ashes or sand, into which the pots containing plants are to be plunged.

Steam has also been employed to heat flues. Plate CCXC., fig. 14, is a side view and section of a flue filled with small stones or broken bricks, and heated by means of a small steam-pipe passing along the lower part of the flue;.

Along the upper side of this pipe are a number of small holes, becoming more frequent towards the farther end, to allow the escape of steam: there are, besides, a few perforations in the under side, to clear away condensed water. The flue has a slight inclination to that end of the house from which the water can be most easily drained.

Similar expedients were long ago employed, in the heating of forcing pits, by Mr John Hay of Edinburgh, a garden-architect of great judgment and experience.. Plate CCXC., figs. 17, 18, represent a recent variety of this mode of supplying surface and bottom heat, by discharging steam into flues and chambers filled with stones. The steam is admitted by small pipes running along the central pit, in channels about four inches deep, and of the same width. These channels are crossed by others at right-angles; and at the points of intersection the steam is permitted to escape by two small holes, one on each side of the pipe. The pits must have a water-tight paved bottom, with a declivity of one inch in ten feet. The sides and covers of the channels arc loosely jointed, and are permeable by the steam. Stopcocks are attached to the pipes, so that the supply of vapour can be adjusted. Another mode of adapting steam to the production of bottom heat, may be seen in Mr Macmur-trie’s Pine-Pit, to be afterwards described.

Hot Water. More recently the circulation of hot water in iron pipes or vessels has been successĥflly employed in producing artificial warmth. The temperature derived from this source has all the properties of steam-heat, with these additional advantages, that it is more steady, not being liable to interruption by the bursting of vessels, and more lasting, as water does not cool so rapidly as aqueous vapour.

The following explanation of the principle of the hot-water apparatus is given by the late Mr Tredgold, in an excellent paper in the Land Hort. Trans, vol. vii. “We may select the simple case of two vessels placed on a horizontal plane, with two pipes to connect them; the vessels being open at top, and the one pipe connecting the lower parts of the vessels, and the other the upper parts. If the vessels and pipes (Plate CCXC., fig. 4) be filled with water, and heat be applied to the vessel A, the effect of heat will expand the water in the vessel A; and its surface will, in consequence, rise to a higher level a, a, the former general level being b, b. The density of the fluid in the vessel A will also decrease, in consequence of its expansion; but as soon as the column c, d, of fluid above the centre of the upper pipe is of greater weight than the column f e, above that centre, motion will commence along the upper pipe from A to B, and the change this motion produces in the equilibrium of the fluid will cause a corresponding motion in the lower pipe from B to A; and, in short, the motion will obviously continue till the temperature be nearly the same in both vessels; or if water be made to boil in A, it may also be boiling hot in B, because ebullition in A will assist the motion.”

The figure referred to in the preceding quotation, representing the common tank boiler surrounded by a flue, with a cistern at the extremity of the pipes, exhibits the form in which the apparatus was first erected; but as in this arrangement the process of heating was very slow, and many changes have been made, the cistern has generally been abandoned, and boilers of various configurations have been adopted. In fig. 5, Plate CCXC., a longitudinal section, and in fig. 6, a transverse section, are given, of a flued tank boiler, in which the surface exposed to the heat being increased, the effect required is accelerated, and at the same time a considerable saving of fuel is effected. Fig. 7∙ represents a section of an oblong, close, semi-cylindrical boiler, in which the action of the fire is still more increased. Fig. 8. is a section of a greenhouse boiler, constructed by the Shotts Foundry Company. The fire is placed entirely [7:11:655]within the lower curved surface. This form is easily heated; but as there is no surrounding brick-work or masonry, it speedily cools. It is unnecessary to describe all the numerous modifications of this apparatus; but it may be proper to direct the attention of the reader to the close boiler, fig. 9, i∏ which is shewn how the circulation may be conducted over a door or other obstacle. In this case the upper pipe must not ascend and descend twice: airtubes ought also to be placed in a boiler, and on the highest part of the pipes; and the whole must be made considerably stronger than on common occasions. Fig. 12. is an isometrical elevation of a hot-water apparatus, for a vinery thirty feet long by eleven wide. A is the boiler, as in figure 4 ; B the upper or delivering pipe; C the principal part of the upper pipe, of a flat form, presenting a greater radiating surface, in proportion to the quantity of heat; D the descending limb; E the returning pipe, of a cylindrical form.

Mr Fowler has employed the siphon as a part of the hot-water apparatus ,∙ and in his tract on the Thermosiphon, as he calls it, has shewn how its various modifications may be employed in warming hot walls, as well as in heating glazed houses. The following statement of the principle is given in the Gardener’s Magazine, vol. v. “Any one may prove that hot water will circulate in a siphon, by taking a piece of lead pipe, say of half an inch bore, and four or five feet long, bending it like a siphon, but with one leg a good deal more bent than the other, in order to give the descending water time and space for giving out its heat; and then, filling this tube with water, and placing one hand on each end to retain it full, immerse the extremities in a pot of water over a fire, (Plate CCXC., fig. 11). Supposing the water of an uniform temperature in both legs of the siphon, no circulation would take place; but supposing it to cool sooner in the long leg a than in the short leg b, then the equilibrium would be destroyed, and the water in the long leg a would descend, and draw up water through the short leg b ; and this circulation would continue as long as the water c was maintained at a temperature above that of the surrounding atmosphere.”

Mr Kewley’s adaptation of the siphon is one of the simplest and most efficient that has been proposed. In Plate CCXC., fig. 10, a, c, e, are the two legs of a siphon, through the upper of which the heated water ascends, and by the lower descends. Immediately over the descending bend, a pipe connected with an air-pump is inserted, in order to fill the pipes, or remove the air which collects in the superior limb. Instead of the air-pump, a funnel with air-tight valves is sometimes employed. This mode of circulation has been adopted in some of the principal nursery-gardens -near London.

Mr Charles H. J. Smith, in a communication to the Scottish Horticultural Society, has clearly shewn that the system of heating by the'circulation of hot water in metallic pipes, is easily applicable, not only to any glazed house constructed with flues, but to any select portion of an existing fruit-wall, although already clothed with peaches, vines, or figs. In the last case, a small furnace and boiler are, of course, placed -at the back of the wall; the expanding water rises to a cistern near the top of the wall; horizontal pipes, making three or four turns, are inserted into the south front of the wall (which is an easy operation, as the wall is usually faced with 'brick); and through these the water circulates, to the great increase of the temperature of the air surrounding the tree. The operation should be accomplished late in the autumn; the tree being carefully unnailed, bent forward, and secured from breaking, and as carefully replaced.

Mr A. Perkins has constructed an apparatus of small tubes hermetically sealed, in which water circulates, of a temperature varying from 300° to 400° Fahrenheit The contrivance is very ingenious, and has been pretty extensively employed in the neighbourhood of London, in heating warerooms: but as the opinions of horticulturists respecting its merits, as applicable to the forcing garden, are still divided, and as it has not as yet stood the test of much experience, it may be sufficient to give it this cursory notice. For further infφrmation, however, we may refer to the Gardener’s Magazine, vols. viii. and ix.

To mention the rays of the sun amongst the sources of artificial heat, may excite a smile; yet it happens that, from the stagnation of air, the reflection of light from walls, and other circumstances, they often produce a very considerable proportion of the increased temperature of a hothouse. This species of heat, however, is materially affected by the admission of the air necessary to the growth and healthy state of the plants. We are not aware of its having been employed as a primary source of heat, except in the case of Dr Anderson’s patent hot-house, in which heated air was kept, bottled up as it were in separate chambers; an arrangement too irregular and unmanageable to be of much utility in our variable climate.

Vegetable substances in a state of fermentation evolve a considerable quantity of caloric, and are much employed to produce bottom heat, in hot-beds, pine or melon pits. In a few instances they have been applied to warm the atmosphere of vineries and peach-houses, in which, however, they have been found to be a poor substitute for the other means already explained.

In the management of artificial heat, some degree of caution is required. All the operations of nature are gradual; and in forcing, it is well to follow these as the safest examples. The judicious gardener will therefore apply his heat very gradually at first; he will increase it by degrees for several weeks, and, in particular, he will guard against any sudden decrease of -warmth, as nothing is more necessary to success than that the course of vegetation be continued uninterruptedly through foliation, inflorescence, and fructification. He will cause the temperature to increase by day and decrease by night, to rise in summer and fall in winter. He will, in short, imitate as much as possible the natural and varying influence of the sun.

The admission of Air. — The deteriorating influence which all living plants are supposed to exert on the atmosphere, must operate with tenfold force in a glazed house, where the proportion of air to vegetable substance is infinitely smaller than under the open sky, and where the corrective agitations of the wind, and the changes of temperature, are much less perceptibly felt. The respiration of plants, and the exhalations of putrescent vegetables, require a constant circulation of the aerial fluid, and this is maintained by means of moveable sashes, and ventilators in the rooι of the house. Of these, sashes seem preferable, as less apt to produce cold currents of air, which are always injurious to vegetation. It is, indeed, a disadvantage that, by sliding down over one another, they diminish the influx of light. In winter, however, when light, from its scarcity in our high latitude, is most valuable, they are seldom drawn down to any extent; and by having all the sashes moveable, the gardener, with a little attention, may correct, in a great measure, any inequality in this respect. Sliding sashes require a depth of rafter which greatly augments the shade in oblique sunshine, an evil which cannot easily be obviated. With fixed roofs, and more especially those which are curvilinear (to be immediately described), numerous ventilators are the only means by which a proper circulation of air can be obtained. Some very intelligent gardeners prefer having all the sloping sashes fixed, and ventilate chiefly by means of large windows at each end of the house, aided by small ventilators in front.

The quantity of air to be admitted from time to time, must vary with the season, the temperature required to be [7:11:656]kept up, and the kind of plants cultivated. It should be given and withdrawn by degrees, particularly in the colder portions of the year. The sashes or ventilators, for instance, may be partially open by eight a. μ., top air being given before front air; full air may be allowed about ten; a reduction should take place before three p. μ., and the whole closed between four and five in the afternoon. In summer less caution is necessary, as in many cases the external air diífers little in temperature from that within the house. Most commonly air is given only during the day, and is excluded at night, with perhaps an increase of fire heat. Judicious horticulturists will sometimes reverse this process. Knowing, for example, that in the West Indies chilly and cold nights usually succeed the hottest days, they will imitate nature, by shutting up the house by day, and throwing it open at night. This practice, however, supported as it is by analogy, is subject to many limitations, and can only be followed in our climate during the summer and autumn months. It is useful, notwithstanding, to remember the principle, though it admits only of partial application.

The admission of Light. — In addition to the heat with which natural light is always accompanied, there seems to be another property necessary to vegetation which, from some cause hitherto unexplained, is partly deranged by its transmission through glass. The fact, however, is evident, from the circumstance that plants thrive better near glass than at a distance from it, though the intensity of light is apparently undiminished. Hence gardeners have been anxious to distribute their finer plants in situations as close as possible to the roofs of hot-houses.

Connected with the admission of light, is the determination of the pitch or angle of elevation of the roofs of glazed houses. It is evidently of advantage that the rays of light should fall upon glass perpendicularly, as loss by reflection is then a minimum, or indeed little or nothing.^[1. The following is part of Bouguer’s Table of Reflexions—Of 1000 incidence rays, when the Angle of incidence is 7 5° 299 ravs are reflected. Angle of incidence is 40° 34 rays are reflected. 70 222 ' 30 27 65 157 20 25 60 112 10 25 50 57 1 25 ] The angle necessary to obtain this result is easily deducible from the sun’s place in the ecliptic. At the equinoxes, the sun’s meridional height above the horizon,-at any point of the earth’s surface, is equal to the complement of the latitude of that place; and hence, in order that the sun’s rays may be perpendicular at that period, it is only necessary to make the elevation of the roof of the hot-house equal to the latitude of the place. The angle for any other season may be obtained by subtracting, from the latitude, the declination of the sun, if at that time to the north of the equator, or by adding it, if to the south. These periods are of course selected in accordance with the time at which the direct rays are most required. Mr Knight proposes a general elevation of 34° for the latitude of London, an angle which corresponds to the 20th of May and the 21st of July. This would afford four months, from the 20th of April to the 21st of August, during which the angle of incidence at mid-day would not at any time amount to 9°, while the deviation at the winter’s solstice would be 43°, and the loss of light from reflection would be little more than y 1 δ . The Rev. Mr Wilkinson recommends 45°, a pitch extremely suitable for early vineries and pine-stoves. In this case the midsummer deviation would be 19°, and the loss ∙^ 1 σ , and the midwinter deviation 30°, while the loss is nearly the same. From these statements, however, and from an inspection of the table already referred to, it is manifest that much greater exactness has been required in this matter than is at all necessary. The reduction of the opacity of the roof, arising from the breadth and depth of rafters and astragals, is of much greater consequence. Accordingly, in some glazed houses, particularly those constructed of metallic substances, rafters have been omitted altogether; but this kind of structure leads to considerable difficulties in the admission of air.

We have taken it for granted that the frame-work is composed of wood; and if prime Baltic timber be procured, it will endure for nearly half a century. But in some cases rafters and sashes made entirely of metal, generally either malleable or cast iron, have been employed; and in others, a middle course has been steered, by adopting wooden mortices and metallic tenons. The great objections to the use of metal for rafters and sashes is, that it is too rapid a conductor of caloric, and too liable to contraction and expansion for the alternations of heat and cold; the expansion tending to render the sashes immoveable, and even to loosen the walls; and the contraction being apt to fracture the glass, and to produce openings between the sashes at which hoarfrost may enter.

In order to secure the greatest possible influx of light, scientific horticulturists have proposed hot-houses with curvilinear roofs. It was remarked by Sir George Mackenzie, to whom the merit of the proposal is primarily due, that if we could find a form for a glass roof, such that the sun’s rays should be perpendicular to some part of it, not on two days, but during the whole year, that form would be the best. Such a figure is the sphere, and he therefore proposes a quarter segment of a globe or semidome, the radius of which is about fifteen feet. The frame for the glasswork is formed of equal ribs of hammered iron, fastened into an iron plate in the parapet wall, and fixed at top into an iron ring connected with the back wall. There are no rafters or sliding sashes, but air is admitted by ventilators in the parapet and back walls.

This form of hot-house roofs has been warmly patronised by Mr Knight, who, however, is of opinion, that the house proposed by Sir George Mackenzie is too high in proportion to its length and breadth, and therefore recommends a smaller section of a sphere with a greater radius. His dimensions are forty feet long, fourteen wide in the centre, and, including the front parapet, twelve feet high. Mr Loudon, who, it is understood, was the first that actually erected hot-houses on this principle, has proposed, and in part executed, many other forms. He describes (Encyc. of Gard.) with great exuberance of invention, the acuminated semidome, the acuminated semiglobe, the semiellipse, and the parallelogram with curved roof and ends. With Mr Loudon we should certainly prefer the last mentioned. A considerable number of curvilinear houses have been erected in the southern part of the island, particularly as repositories for ornamental plants, such as in Messrs Loddiges’ nursery-gardens at Hackney, the London Horticultural Society’s garden, the Manchester Botanic Garden, and in various private gardens.

As far as we are aware, no extensive experimental investigation of the comparative merits of curvilinear houses has hitherto been made. A writer in the Gardener’s Magazine (vol. ii.) found it necessary, during the summer months, to shade his pines growing in such a house, from nine, ten, or eleven o’clock in the morning, to three, four, or five in the afternoon, in order to prevent the plants from assuming a rusty tinge and unhealthy appearance. Another practical gardener complains (vol. v.) that “the circular [7:11:657]roof concentrated the sun’s rays so immoderately, that the tops of the vines were actually scorched, even when the doors and ventilators at the back were all open. This was always the case in summer; and in winter, it was with the greatest difficulty, and only with the assistance of mats, that they could keep ont frost; the thermometer frequently indicating only 40° when strong fires were burning.” A considerable portion of the superior lightness of the curvilinear houses is due to the absence of rafters, and as these may also be dispensed in plain roofs, the effect of these ought to be deducted in making a comparison. Perhaps, when every thing else is rightly arranged, there is enough of light in common houses. Scarcely any species of fruit, when cultivated in the open air, is exposed during the whole day to the action of the solar rays, but must unavoidably be shaded at times by leaves and branches. It is difficult to suppose that, in respect to illumination, there is any re i - markable deficiency in pits and glazed houses, in which have been ripened pine-apples and clusters of grapes, at least rivalling, if not surpassing, the produce of the most favoured of their native climes. In the admission of air, in the quantity and convenience of trellises, and in other interior accommodations, it cannot be disputed that the old forms have the advantage.

It has already been said, that hot-house roofs of the common kind, are sometimes constructed without rafters or moveable sashes. A considerable increase of light is thus obtained; but this benefit is attended with an almost insuperable defect, namely, the difficulty of producing a free and equable circulation of air. It is indeed probable that the common or plain roofed hot-house will always continue the favourite form with gardeners. In it the rafters are arranged at equal distances, and are made of a deep and narrow form, with their under edges rounded off. Nico recommends that they should be made two and one-fourth inches broad, by ten inches deep. Perhaps they might be a little broader and shallower with advantage. The size of the sashes depends on the magnitude of the house; their breadth, however, ranges from three and a half to four feet. Except in very large houses, sashes are always disposed in two tiers, the upper row sliding down over the under one. Where there are ventilators in the front wall or upright glass, the sashes in the upper tier alone require to be moveable, and, for the sake of convenience, they may be made considerably shorter than the others. They are furnished with cords, pulleys, rollers, and weights, though the last, with no very prudent regard to economy, are sometimes omitted. Formerly all hot-houses were constructed with upright sashes in front. One of the most eminent garden architects of the present day (Mr Atkinson), has discontinued the practice; and, except in ornamental structures, it is hard to say why it should not be laid aside altogether. Sueh sashes serve only to weaken the fabric, and increase its expense.

Formerly the panes of glass employed were of large size; but small panes are found to be more economical, being less liable to break, and more easily replaced. It is believed that a pane seven inches in breadth by six in length, is the cheapest form in which glass can be obtained. In glazing, it is important to keep the overlaps of the panes of small dimensions, perhaps from one-fourth to one-eighth inch in breadth. This diminishes the breakage which arises from the expansion, in freezing, of the water detained between the laps by capillary attraction. As a further preventive, the interstices are sometimes filled with putty, and occasionally with laps of lead or copper. This effects a considerable saving of glass and of heat, but imposes on the gardener the duty of increased attention in preventing the stagnation of air. The frame-work of houses should be well coated with oil-paint; the colour is usually white.

In closing these preliminary remarks, it is proper to observe, that although the construction of a forcing-house is always a matter of considerable importance, it is not the only, nor even the most important condition necessary to ensure success. Much care in management, skill in pruning, and knowledge in physiology, must be possessed and applied, in order to obtain abundant and regular crops of fine fruit.

The more minute details respecting the structure of glazed houses, we shall notice along with the peculiar culture required in each; and we shall take them in the following order: The Vinery br Grape-house, the Peachhouse, the Cherry-house, the Fig-house, the Pinery, the Orangery, and the Melonry. The greenhouse and other botanical structures, will come more appropriately under review in treating of the Flower Garden.

The Vinery. Structure. — The vinery is susceptible of a great variety of form; and, indeed, in this respect, seems more pliable than any other forcing-house. That form, however, which has been most commonly used, is the plane roof with sliding sashes; and such is the success with which it has been employed, and such its convenience for every purpose, that it is not probable it will soon be generally supplanted. The section of the Peach-house, Pl. CCXCI. fig. 4, will give an idea of the usual configuration of the vinery. Fig. 3. of the same plate is a section, and fig. 6. a ground plan of a curvilinear vinery, heated by hot-water. A vinery, with fines and two furnaces, is generally fifty feet long, twelve or fourteen wide within, the height of the back wall being ten or twelve feet. Where there is only one furnace, or where a hot-water apparatus is employed, the length of the house should not exceed thirty-five or forty feet. Small divisions are to be preferred; for where there is a considerable extent of glass, the cultivator, by applying his fires to the different divisions in succession, can prolong the crop from May to December. The parapet wall in front is commonly arched or built on lintels, supported by stone pillars; so that the vines, which are planted inside the house, close by the parapet, may send abroad their roots in search of nutriment. Sometimes the vines are planted without^ and introdüced into the house by slanting apertures in the front wall; but the former method, where possible, is the more eligible. The trellis used for training, is generally formed of w ires drawn across the rafters, at the distance of a foot from each other. Of late the trellis has been divided into portions of a moderate breadth, which are placed vertically under the rafter. This form, exhibited in fig. 1, Plate CCXCI., is called the hanging trellis, and is described at length in the Lond. IJortic. Trans, vol. vi. It leaves the middle of the sash open to the sun’s rays, and allows the back wall to be covered with bearing wood, a thing which, in other circumstances, can scarcely be done with any beneficial effect. It must, however, be admitted, that, according to the' experience of some, this arrangement is inferior to the common trellis.

It is of importance that the included soil and front border of a vinery should be fresh and rich, and of a considerable depth. Mr Griffin (in Land, liortic. Trans.) recommends as a compost, “one-half of good loamy soil with its turf, one quarter of rich old dung, and one quarter of brick and lime rubbish; the turf well rotted, and the whole well incorporated.” Plants raised from cuttings, and prepared for two or three years in pots, are preferred for the furnishing of a vinery; and when planted inside the house, there should not be fewer than two plants to each sash.

It is scarcely necessary to enumerate the particular varieties of the grape-vine, as adapted for a vinery, for every good variety deserves a place where there is room, and all those which have∙been already mentioned are occasionally planted. It may be remarked, however, that the kinds should be assorted according to the order of their ripening.
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The early grapes, such as the Muscadines, should be planted in a house by themselves; those of a medium character, the Frotignacs, for example, may occupy a second; while the late Tokay, the Muscat of Alexandria, Nice, Syrian, and others, would be fit inmates for a third. This would produce a regular succession, and admit a uniformity of treatment in each house. Where there is not a suite of vineries, but only one large house, the late varieties should be planted near the entrance of the flues.

Pruning and Training. Very numerous have been the directions given in reference to these particulars; but we cannot here go into such details, nor is it necessary. The great object is the reproduction of bearing, that is, annual wood, over the whole surface of the house. When this is accomplished, the next matter to be determined is the number of eyes or buds to be left on each shoot, that is, whether we shall adopt the short or the long system of pruning. The former is most allied to the practice of foreign vineyards, and has been most successfully employed in this country. According to this method, all the lateral shoots are cut dowm to single eyes, as described in Lond. Hortic. Trans, iv. 104. For a particular description of the long system, we refer to the same vol. p. 246, or to Loudon’s Encyclopaedia of Gardening, second edition, p. 548. To these references, we add a few general remarks. (1.) In this country, it ought to be the great aim of the gardener to make his vines grow as luxuriantly as possible; for the quality of the grapes, when properly ripened, is generally commensurate with the size of the berries. The borders should therefore be made rich; but they ought to be rather wide than deep, deep planting being adverse to the ripening of the fruit. (2.) In order to secure a proper degree of vigour, vines should be limited in extent, and pruned rather severely than otherwise. To enable us to circumscribe the plants, it would be well to introduce as many separate plants into the vinery as can be done without confusion. For an illustration of this principle, we may refer to the practice of the vignerons of Fontainebleau, as described in the Pomone Française, or in the Lond. Hortic. Trans, vol. vii. (3.) From the peculiar mode of growth in the grape-vine, the bearing branches have a tendency to recede from the centre to the extremities, and are often found in abundance only at the top of the trellis. Every young shoot near the front of the house should therefore be carefully husbanded, and cut back by way of reserve. Old wood ought to be removed as frequently as possible; and the skilful pruner will look at least two years before him. Nothing contributes more to regularity in the succession of bearing wood, than simplicity in pruning and training; and therefore all bending, and tw isting, and traversing of branches should be avoided.

The summer pruning consists in removing with the fingers the useless lateral shoots, and pinching off the tender points of the bearing branches. The extent to which these bearing branches are allowed to run will depend on their vigour, and the position which they hold in the plant. Sometimes it may be needful to leave them ten or twelve feet long, but, in general, two or three feet will be sufficient. The shorter the better. They seldom or never fail to send out secondary laterals from their points: these and the others which succeed them are stopped at the second or even first eye, and the operation is continued until vegetation ceases. When the young grapes begin to swell, the bunches are thinned out, that is, berries are removed wherever they are too much crowded together; and the shoulders or sides of the bunches are supported by slender threads of bass-mat. The quality and weight of bunches should be regarded rather than their number. Nothing seems more contemptible than numbers of small and ill-ripened bunches of grapes, smeared, as they frequently are, with dust and honey-dew. Avarice not unfrequently cheats itself in this matter; and it generally happens in the vinery, as elsewhere, that not he who desires most has most. The ripening, colour, and flavour of grapes on the tree are promoted by removing a portion of the foliage; this is to be done, however, only after the fruit has attained full size.

The forcing of the earliest vinery may commence in January. At first the temperature may vary from 50° to 55° Fahrenheit in the mornings and evenings. When the buds have burst, it may be raised to 70°, and in the flowering season it may be kept at 75°. At this season it is necessary that the air should be preserved moist by frequent steamings. Upon the appearance of colour in the fruit, the waterings cease, and air is copiously admitted. In the early vineries, it is necessary to continue the fire-heat without intermission: in the later houses this is not required, but it must be used occasionally, even in warm weather, to obviate the effects of damp.

The Peach-house. —A peach-house, intended to be commanded by one furnace, is generally about forty feet long, ten or twelve feet wide, and fourteen feet high; but these dimensions may be varied considerably, according to the time at which the crop is desired to come into season. For early forcing, perhaps twenty-five or thirty feet in length, and seven or eight in breadth, are sufficient; while a house, in which the operations of nature are only to be slightly accelerated, may be extended to fifty feet. As in the vinery, the front wall is arched, to permit the egress of the roots. Upon this is usually placed a range of upright sashes, which are surmounted by the sloping rafters of the roof. A common form of a peach-house is represented in Plate CCXCI., in which fig. 4. is a vertical section, and fig. 5. is the ground plan; a, a, are the flues, b is the table trellis, c the trellis on the back wall; along with which, a hanging trellis, as in fig. 1, is sometimes employed, although this is not approved of by many. The flue, which is built on pillars, and returns on itself, occupies the centre of the house. The trees arc trained to the two trellises b and c, and to the hanging trellis, if such be in use. Against the back wall three or four dwarf trees are planted, with intermediate riders, the latter being taken out at the end of four or five yςars at furthest. These, with three for the front trellis, make in all nine or ten trees for each house.

Plate CCXCΠ. fig. 1, represents another form of the peach-house, not so generally used as the former, but of equal if not superior merit. We have supposed it heated by a water apparatus a, a, but that is not an essential matter, as a common flue is equally admissible. There is no front glass, nor any trellis on the back wall, the trees being planted in front, and trained on a wire trellis b, attached to the rafters, and covering the whole surface of the roof. As the peach-tree is not found to extend much more than twelve or thirteen feet on the open wall, the length of the rafter, inside measure, need not do more than approach to fourteen feet. It is obvious that in such a house the trees must enjoy an equable, and, from their proximity to the glass, an advantageous degree of light. Besides being planted close to the front wall, they are not exposed to have their roots stunted in passing under flues, and through the interior soil of the house, which, in spite of every assiduity in watering and manuring, becomes hard and impoverished. Further, it has been estimated, that as far as roof and glass are concerned, four or even five such houses may be erected, at the same expense as three of the common form.

In Holland, peaches are forced in pits resembling the common hot-bed or melon-pit. The trees are trained on a trellis-work near the glass, and the air is heated by the fermentation of dung-linings. The method has been partially adopted in this country, with, however, the use of hot water. When garden-architects shall cease to be anxious [7:11:659]about making all forcing houses ornamental structures, this will probably be the general form in which early and tender peaches will be cultivated.

The pruning and training of peach-trees in the peachhouse does not differ materially from the practice out of doors. Fire-heat is commonly applied about the beginning or middle of February; but where there is a large suite of houses, and an extended succession is wanted, forcing, as it then truly becomes, may begin a month sooner. At first the temperature is kept about 45°, but it is afterwards gradually increased to 50° or 55° Fahrenheit.' While the trees are in flower, and till the fruit be set, the house is occasionally steamed, either by sprinkling water on the warm flues, or by admitting the vapour from the pipes, where steam is employed for heating. After this period, the foliage is washed, from time to time, with the gardenengine. When the fruit has stoned, or the kernels have been formed, the temperature is raised to about 60°. Water is now copiously supplied to the border; the fruit is thinned out; the various operations of disbudding and tying are performed, and air is admitted in abundance. After the end of April, little fire-heat is required for the peach-house. The trees often suffer from mildew: the best preventives consist in keeping the borders of the peachhouse clear, and in good condition as to fresh soil, and in observing that nothing be permitted to obstruct the free circulation of air and full admission of sun. ’

It may here be remarked, that by curious cultivators several uncommon kinds of exotic fruits are occasionally grown with success in conservatories, vineries, hot-houses, or other glazed structures, along with the more regular or usual inmates. Among these may be mentioned . the Lo-quat, Eriobotrya japonica ; the Jamrosade Eugenia jam-bos ; the Purple Granadilla, Passiβora edulis ; the Granadilla vine, P. quadrangularis ; the May-apple, P. incarnata ; the Water-lemon, P. laurifolia ; and the» Sweet Calabash, P. maliformis ; the Papaw, Carica Papaya ; and the Banana, Musa sapientum. The Leechee, Nephe-lium Litchi, has ripened in our stoves; the Long-yen, Euphoria longana, has yielded its fruit at Syon-House; and the Mango, Mangifera indica, at the garden of Earl Powis. The China Guava, Psidium cattlcianum, fruits freely in the vinery of the Experimental Garden at Edinburgh: the fruit is round, about the size of a small plum; of a fine claret colour; the pulp soft, only a little firmer than that of a strawberry, and of a delightful subacid flavour, making a most desirable preserve. The Carambola, Averrhoa Carambola, of the East Indies, has of late been added to our exotic fruits, by Mr Bateman of Knypersley, near Congleton: the fruit is of the size and shape of a duck’s egg, but with longitudinal ribs on the sides; either in tarts or as a preserve, the flavour is described as exquisite. It may be noticed, that, both from the descriptions of intelligent travellers, and from the preserved fruit being sent to Britain, we know that numerous species of exotic fruit-trees exist, which have not yet reached us in a living state; and the introduction of these might form an object of innocent, pleasing, and commendable ambition to enterprising and wealthy horticulturists.

The Cherry-house, in its general arrangements, resembles the peach-house, with the exception of the front trellis, the place of which is commonly occupied by a stage for pots of early strawberries or kidney beans. The cherry-trees are trained against the back wall: the house should therefore be narrow, and the roof steep. The operation of forcing generally commences early in January, with a very moderate temperature. Air is admitted freely till the flowers begin to expand, when great caution becomes necessary. When the fruit is setting, the temperature is kept as steadily as possible at 50°: after it is set, abundance of water is applied to the roots and foliage of the trees. When the fruit is colouring, water is almost entirely withheld, and air is now freely admitted. During the whole process of forcing cherries, any excessive heat from the sun’s rays must be carefully guarded against, by shading or by admitting of air. The kind of cherry usually preferred for forcing is the Common May-duke. A cherryhouse ought to form a part of every large garden establishment; for nothing better distinguishes the tables of the opulent, in March and April, than ripe cherries and strawberries appearing in the dessert at that season of the year.

The Fig-house scarcely differs in form and management from the Cherry-house, the trees being trained to a back trellis, with the addition, however, of dwarf standard trees in front. At Kew there is a fig-house fifty feet long. Here the second crop is often the most productive. In 1810, we are told the royal tables were supplied with more than 200 baskets of figs, 50 of which were from the first crop, and 150 from the second. It is seldom, however, that a separate house is erected for this fruit. The fig succeeds very well as a dwarf standard between the front flues of a vinery, provided the roof be not too closely covered with the foliage of the vines. Of late, small standard figs have very commonly been grown in large pots, fourteen or fifteen inches in diameter, and placed in any of the forcing houses. In this way considerable crops of fruit have been raised. The Figue blanche and the Marseilles are the sorts best adapted for forcing.

The Orange Tribe (Citrus) are cultivated in Britain, .rather as objects of curiosity and beauty, than for the purpose of affording a supply of fruit. Commerce with Portugal, Spain, Italy, and China, has brought this class of fruits within the reach of every one; and the copious importations which annually take place, have no doubt discouraged the cultivation of the plants. A few orange trees are nevertheless to be met with in most collections, and in large and sumptuous gardens, it is not uncommon to meet with glazed houses set specially apart for their reception.

The following brief notices of some of the cultivated species of the genus Citrus are derived principally from Mr G. Don’s General System of Botany and Gardening, a work evincing singular accuracy and unwearied research, and from Μ. Risso’s excellent paper in the Annales du Museum, vol. xx.

C. Medica, the Citron, the Cedrate of the Italians, is a small evergreen tree. The fruit is large, of an oval form, and covered with a rough skin or rind, which is charged with a highly fragrant oil. The citron is generally used in confections. It is supposed to be a native of Media, and will scarcely ripen without protection in Britain. Three subvarieties of citron are described by Risso.

C. Limetta, the Sweet Lime. This is rather a tall tree, with diverging branches. The flower is of a fine white colour, composed of five oblong petals. The fruit is globose, with a black nipple-like protuberance at the apex, having a firm rind, and sweet pulp. The colour is pale yellow. It is a native of Asia, but cultivated in Italy. Seven varieties have been described.

C. Limonum, the Lemon. The petioles of the leaves somewhat winged; fruit oblong, with a thin rind adhering closely to the very acid pulp. This, like the preceding, is a native of Asia, but is cultivated in the south of Europe. There are numerous varieties.

C. Aurantium, Sweet Orange. The petioles almost naked; fruit globose, with a thin rind, and sweet pulp. Risso has enumerated nineteen varieties; of which the principal are, the China, the Portugal, and the Maltese.
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The last has a blood-coloured pulp, with rich juice, and is now in much request.

C. vulgaris, Seville or Bitter Orange. The petioles winged; fruit globose, with a thin rind, and bitter juice. This sort is employed in making marmalade, and is also used in medicine. Twelve varieties have been described.

C. Decumana, the Shaddock. The petioles broad, with cordate wings; fruit large, weighing from ten to fourteen pounds, with a thick rind. This fruit was carried by Captain Shaddock from China to the British West Indies, where it first acquired the name which it now bears. It is now cultivated not only in the West India Islands, but extensively in South America. Four sorts are enumerated. Of all the Citrus tribe, this has the most beautiful foliage, and it is therefore not improperly selected for filling the back wall of a vinery.

The orangery, in this country, seldom differs in form, even where it is a separate structure, from that of the greenhouse. Most commonly the few orange plants which are kept, are grown in pots or boxes, and occupy a place with other exotics on the greenhouse shelves. At some places the orange trees are planted in conservatories erected for the purpose. In the neighbourhood of Paris, the orangeries are little better than dark sheds, in which the trees are kept protected during the winter months, light and air being given when the weather permits. At Woodhall, in Lanarkshire, they are trained against trellisses, under glass, and in this way produce abundant crops of fine fruit. We have there seen a single plant of the St Michael’s orange, twenty-four feet wide and eighteen feet high, clothed with fruit.

Middle-sized plants are frequently imported from the Italian nursery-gardens, and this is the readiest way of procuring large specimens at a cheap rate. The plants are closely packed in boxes, with some grass or moss around the roots. Upon their arrival they are in a withered and deadlike state, and require considerable care and management to recover them from the effects of the voyage. When propagated in this country, they are budded on citron or Seville orange stocks; the former recommended by Miller as preferable. The seeds of the stocks are sown in pots, and the growth of the seedlings is aided, during the first and second summer, by the application of a slight bottom heat in a hot-bed frame. These are usually budded in August. The late Mr Henderson, gardener at Woodhall, used to graft his trees, employing scions formed of the wood of the second year. He also propagated by cuttings, considering this the quickest mode of obtaining plants. We may add, that this most successful cultivator of the orange tribe made it a rule to keep his trees rather cool, and with plenty of air in mild weather, till the fruit was fairly set; after which he found that he could apply more heat without the risk of the fruit failing.

The orange tree prospers in a rich, fresh, and rather strong soil; and in this country it is the practice to mix with it a considerable portion of well rotted dung. When grown in pots or boxes, the plant should be shifted, and the earth partly renewed every spring. In summer, copious waterings are given, and the leaves are syringed once or twice a-wcek. The heads are kept thin, and the branches which inconveniently crςss each other are removed. When planted against trellisses, they are trained in the fan form; and in laying in the shoots, allowance is to be made for the size of the leaves in the different species.

The Pine-apple (Bromelia Ananas') is comparatively of recent introduction into Britain. It was nearly unknown to our horticulturists in the beginning of the eighteenth century; for Thoresby, the antiquary, kept a leaf of the pine-apple in his museum as a curiosity. It is now largely and successfully cultivated in all the principal gardens in this co untr. Its culture requires all the ingenuity, judgment, and watchfulness of the skilful and diligent horticulturist. We shall, therefore, treat of it at considerable length. It derives its name from the general resemblance of its fruit to a large cone of a pine-tree. The fruit is a kind of pulpy strobilus, formed of coadunate berries, and crowned at top with a tuft of fine green pointed leaves. The flavour of the pulp is of the most exquisite kind. The plant is herbaceous, and the fruit-stem, which generall; appears in the second or third year, is surrounded with long serrated leaves, resembling those of some species of aloe. The fruit grown in Britain is considered equal in all good qualities, and generally superior in size, to that reared in tropical countries. The Lond. Hortic. Catalogue enumerates 56 varieties: of these the following may be deemed most worthy of notice.

The Queen Pine is very generally cultivated. Its frui[ is of a cylindrical or tankard shape, of a yellowish colout inclining to orange, and sometimes weighs three pounds it is, at the same time, of excellent flavour. This kind produces with greater certainty than most others, and the fruit may be easily ripened in fifteen or eighteen months, from the planting of the crown or offset. It is, therefore, the most useful of all the pines. A subvariety called Hip-ley’s Queen is also excellent.

The Black Antigua has leaves armed with large spines; the flow ers are purple; the fruit cylindrical, averaging five pounds weight. It should be cut a little before it be quite ripe.

The Black Jamaica, or Old Jamaica. In this variety the spines on the leaves are small; the flowers purple; the fruit oblong, averaging about four pounds. This is an excellent kind, and is considered the best sort for fruiting during the winter months.

The New Jamaica is rather an inferior kind, but is pretty good when ripened in the summer time.

Υ∖u∖Broun-leaved Sugar-loaf is a capital black variety; and the Enville a large, shewy, and useful pine.

The St Vincent's, or, as it is sometimes called, the Green Olive, has middle-sized spines, purple flowers, and pyramidal fruit, which average about two pounds and a half. It succeeds well to come in as a winter fruit.

The White Providence has small spines, dark purple flowers, and oblong fruit of a large size, averaging, when well grown, seven pounds weight, and sometimes exceeding twelve pounds. The colour of the fruit is at first brownish-grey, but at ripening it becomes of a pale yellow. The pulp is yellow, melting, and abounds with quick lively juice, but is not equal in flavour to some of the other kinds.

The Trinidad is remarkable for the great size of its fruit, which are said to attain sometimes to the weight of twenty-six pounds. Its average is stated in the Hort. Cat. to be twelve pounds. The spines are middle-sized, the flowers lilac, and the fruit pyramidal. Apart from its magnitude, it is, like the preceding, only a secondary fruit.

The following may also be named as first-rate sorts: Bagot’s Seedling, Russian Globe, Green King with smooth leaves, Striped Queen, Sierra Leone, Brown Sugar-loaf and Orange Sugar-loaf. And three or four more, though of inferior quality, may be noticed for their beauty, or curiosity, viz. the Blood-red, Otaheite, Scarlet, Welbeck Seedling, and the FIavannah, the fruit of which last keeps long, and has sometimes been imported into this country from Cuba.

Structures for growing Pine-apples. The ananas plant has generally been found to require cultivation for two or three years before it perfects its fruit: its culture has, m consequence, been divided into three periods,—propagation, successional preparation, and fruiting; and each of these periods has its corresponding structure, viz. the nursing-pit, the succession-house or pit, and the fruiting-house.
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The nursing-pit has occasionally assumed a great variety of forms, respecting which, however, it is not necessary to go into minute detail. For summer use, a large glazed frame, placed upon a hot-bed of stable litter and tanners’ bark, is perhaps the best hitherto devised. The Alderston Melon-pit, and Atkinson’s Melon-pit, described under the head Melonry, are likewise very suitable for this purpose. In winter, it is desirable to have the assistance of fire heat, either from flues, or, what is better, from hot water; though this fire heat is not indispensable.

The succession-pit performs the same functions as the nursing-pit, but at a more advanced stage of the growth of the plant, and consequently requires an increase of size. With this difference, Atkinson’s Melon-pit does very well for summer use. In colder seasons, we should prefer a pit similar to that represented Plate CCXCII, figs. 2 and 3, in which a hot-water apparatus on the siphon principle is employed. The plants are plunged in a (fig. 2), being a bed of sand or fine gravel; b is the boiler; c pipes for supplying the bottom heat; d exposed pipes for warming the included air. If the common bark-bed is preferred, the pipes c may be omitted. This pit may be fifty feet long, and seven wide. The sashes are raised from without, as in the common hot-bed. This plan is from the pencil of Mr Charles II. J. Smith, a young but very promising gardenarchitect, of whose assistance the writer of this article has had much satisfaction in availing himself in the designing of the plates. Mr Smith also proposes another form of a succession pit, exhibited in Plate CCXCII, fig. 11, entirely heated by hot-water. The surface heat is supplied by pipes in front; the bottom heat is kept up by small pipes from the boiler, passing through cisterns of water extending the whole length of the pit. In this case it would be necessary to apply the heat only during the day. The old succession-house, or that generally in use till within the last fifteen years, does not differ materially from the common pine-stove; but, owing to its great waste of heat, it either is or ought to be entirely laid aside.

In the fruiting-house, more room, greater height, and a more powerful temperature, are requisite; and to attain these objects, many varieties of structure have been devised: we shall notice those only which are most worthy of attention. Fig. 4, Plate CCXCII. is a section of Baldwin’s Fruiting-pit. The roof is unequally ridged, the north or shorter side being slated and furnished with ventilators, to admit air. The sashes are immovable, and the laps of the panes are closely puttied. There is a path within, and a single turn of a flue behind. We should prefer the form exhibited by fig. 5. of the same plate, in which there are also ventilators a a, and a hot-water apparatus surrounding the whole pit. The dimensions of this may be fifty feet long, and nine feet wide; the glass being two feet and a half from the curb of the bark-pit in front, and five feet behind. Fig. 6. is a section of a pine-pit with a curvilinear roof, in which the astragals are parallel. A segment of an elliptical arch somewhat less than a quadrant, the origin of the curve being on the front wall, seems better adapted for a pit than any portion of a circle. This pit is supposed to be heated by a small steam-pipe passing through a large iron tank or cistern a, filled with water, on the same principle as exhibited in Plate CCXC, fig. 13. A section of the old-fashioned pine-stove is given in Plate CCXCII, fig. 7∙ This is a lofty structure, in the vinery form, with front sashes. It used to be forty or fifty feet long√ and twelve or fourteen feet broad, and was commanded by two flues. In addition to the pine plants in the pit, the roof is also partly covered with vines, a practice justly condemned by Nico. We are also disposed to agree with that experienced writer regarding the disuse of the pine-stove itself. Besides other grievous faults, a single house affords too little room; and it is a matter of experience, that where the stock of pine plants is not extensive, certain and abundant crops or ιruιc cannot be expected. Instead, therefore, of a succession and fřnit-ing-house of the old form, with two fires each, it would be better to have four pits with single fires. There might be two succession-pits of the form of fig. 2. or fig. 11, Plate CCXCII, and two fruiting-pits similar to fig. 5. or fig. 6. These would contain a much greater number of plants than two pine-stoves, would be little more expensive in erection, and, as the number of fires is the same, would not consume much more fuel.

Bottom Heat. As a substitute for the warmth absorbed by the earth, from the powerful rays of the sun in tropical countries, the pots of pine-plants are generally plunged in a bed of tanners’ bark, decaying leaves, or other fermenting substances. Tanners’ bark is most commonly used. Speechly and Nico prefer leaves shed by hard-wood trees in autumn. Others form the under and greater part of the bed with stable-litter. Whatever substance is employed, it should not be put into the bed until the first violent heat of fermentation has passed; or if circumstances impose a necessity of using it in a recent state, it should be largely mixed with old materials of the same kind. A layer of exhausted bark, ten or twelve inches thick, should be laid on the surface of the bed. In pine stoves, the curb of the bark-pit is usually elevated about three feet above the common level of the house, and has a gentle slope towards the front; in pine-pits, however, it approaches more closely to the glass. The bark is commonly five or six feet deep; but it may be questioned whether this depth is not excessive and unnecessary. A bed about three and a half feet deep would probably be more convenient, and afford a heat sufficient both in intensity and duration for any useful purpose.

We have already shewn how a system of tubes transmitting steam or hot-water may be made available to the production of bottom heat. There is another method worthy of at least a cursory notice, which is all that we can afford it. Its invention is due to Mr M*Murtrie, and the apparatus is described at length in % the Land. Hort. Trans, vol. vi. His contrivance will be understood by an inspection of his pine-pit, of which a section and plan are given in Plate CCXCII. figs. 8 and 9∙ A shallow bark bed, about two feet deep, rests upon an arched chamber of single brick. 1 is the fire-place; 2 a fire-flue running along the whole length of the chamber 4, which is also kept full of steam by means of the boiler and pipe 3; the apertures 5 admit steam and heat into the air of the pit, and of these there is one, both in back and front, under each sash, capable of being stopped at pleasure. The waste-pipe 6 allows the steam to escape, when the apertures marked 5 are shut-By the return of the flue 2, the atmosphere of the house is heated; and by the joint action of the inclosed part of the flue, and of the steam in the chamber, an abundant and salubrious bottom heat is easily maintained.

The proper management of bottom heat is a matter of some difficulty, and in this there have been more failures than in any other part of the pine-apple culture. The heat arising from violent fermentation, is greater than the tender roots can bear, and if all watchfulness be not employed, the labour of many months may be blasted in a single day. Mr Knight has discarded bottom heat altogether; but he has not succeeded in convincing others that pine apples can be grown equally well without it. Bottom heat is, however, almost universally kept too high. Perhaps the upper limit of its temperature may be fixed at blood-heat, or at most 100°, while the under or winter limit may be brought down to 70° or 75°. Gardeners are accustomed to judge of the heat of the bed, by means of long sticks pushed into it; these are occasionally drawn out and felt by the hand, and a rough guess at the temperature is thus ob tained. A far preferable method is to employ a slow thermometer slightly cased in wire.
[7:11:662]

Soil. Various nice and minute directions have been given respecting composts for ananas plants. Any compost, however, will be found suitable, which is at once rich, fresh, and simple. Perhaps a mixture of the top-spit, including the turf, of an old pasture, and about a half of good, well-rotted dung, combines these qualities as completely as possible. When it is necessary to lighten these materials, a compost of decayed leaves, and a little sand, may be added. It is of importance that the compost, whatever it may be, should be prepared a considerable time beforehand, and frequently turned over. It should be broken with the spade, but not screened; and when used, it should not be too moist. Pine-apple plants are found to shew fruit more readily in a rich light soil, than in strong loam, but do not produce large fruit. In selecting his compost, the cultivator must make his selection between these advantages. At all events the soil must be rich; it can scarcely be too rich. “The pine,” says an intelligent writer in the Gardener’s Magazine, vol. ix. “is a gross feeder, and will thrive in vegetable manure, however rich and fresh.” Liquid manures have been applied; but these, however useful when recent, prove deleterious in a fermented state.

Propagation. The ananas is propagated by planting the crowns or tufts which grow on the fruit, or the suckers which appear at the base of the stem. These, when removed from the fruit or the stem, are laid aside for a few days, till the scar at the place of separation have dried or healed, a precaution to prevent their rotting; after which they are potted immediately. Sometimes late in the season, they are merely thrust into exhausted tan, without pots, where they remain till the following spring. In general the offsets should be as large as possible. Speechly did not break off his suckers before they were twelve or fourteen inches long, and he reserved only the largest crowns. These large suckers and crowns grow with greater rapidity, and come sooner into fruit, than those of smaller size: and in this, in truth, consists the principal secret of what has been called the short method of culture, by which fruit is obtained in a much briefer space of time than usual. The soil employed in propagation is rather lighter than that afterwards applied. The pots may be from three to six inches in diameter, and, to promote draining, should contain at bottom a layer of shivers or clean gravel. For some time the plants are shaded from the rays of the sun, and in about eight or ten days they receive a little water. As already stated, the older and more common routine of pineapple culture embraces a period of three years; but recent improvements have reduced these to two years, or even to eighteen months. This has given rise to two modes of preparatory management, which we shall notice separately, premising that the treatment in the fruiting-house is the same in both.

Triennial Course. The plants which were potted in autumn, are kept in the nursing-pit during winter, with a mild temperature, a slight bottom heat, and a sparing allowance of water. About the beginning of April they are transferred into larger pots, and are commonly shifted into hotbeds or pits heated with stable dung, in which they are found to prosper exceedingly. Air is given every day, and is copiously admitted, as soon as the sun’s rays have acquired considerable power. During summer the average morning temperature may be from 70° to 7 5° Fahrenheit, but in sunshine it may be allowed to rise to 85°, 9θ o , or even more. The heat is maintained by adding occasional linings of stable litter, and, when it is exhausted, the plants are transferred into other beds or pits, more recently made up, and in which fermentation is going on. In flued nursing-pits the management is precisely the same. The bottom heat is aided by fresh additions of tan. As nothing is to be dreaded from damp where there is a command of fire-heat, more copious waterings may be given, and the plants may be syringed over head, or slightly steamed, by throwing water on the flues. It is not very common to shift the plants in the nursery during summer; but it is a good ride to have recourse to that operation as often as the roots begin to mat on the sides of the pot. Before the end of autumn, the young plants become vigorous. The lower part of the stalk should then be thick, the centre or funnel formed by the leaves should be upright, open, and rather short, and the leaves themselves not long nor very numerous, but broad, stiff, succulent, and free from contortion and deformity. Towards the end of autumn, the plants are taken into the succession-pit, which, in fact, is only a nursing-pit on a large scale. The temperature for winter should be about 60°. About the middle of March, they are shifted into pots nine or ten inches in diameter. At this period, it is not uncommon, in compliance with the recommendation of Abercrombie and the other older authorities, to cut away the whole of the roots, and to re-pot the plant somewhat in the capacity of a sucker. The reasons alleged for this extraordinary practice are, that the pine-apple plant is continually pushing out roots at the surface, while those below are rapidly dying; that the soil, in the course of three years, becomes completely exhausted; and lastly, that this treatment prevents premature starting in the course of the second year. This last reason is very questionable, and it assumes that ananas plants must be treated for three years before they produce fruit. There is some force in the other reasons, but they do not prove the absolute necessity of the practice. Roots may be pruned without being removed altogether. The earth may be shaken almost entirely away, and replaced by fresh compost, at the expense of only a few fibres. Again, if, at every shifting, a small portion of the earth be taken from below, as florists treat auriculas in pots, at the end of two years scarcely any portion of the original soil will remain. The grand objection to the operation is, the great and unnecessary check to vegetation, and the consequent stuntedness of habit, which, in succulent plants of such an age, is scarcely remediable. That it is possible to grow ananas without cutting away the roots, is consistent with our own observation, and is borne out by the testimony and practice of Griffin, Appleby, and other distinguished cultivators. When the roots are removed, the plants must be shaded for some time, and be watered sparingly, till they begin to grow freely. The summer temperature should be comparatively warm, the range being from 65° to 70° of fire-heat, or during night, and from 70° to 85° solar heat. Abundance of air is admitted, and the plants are set widely, that they may have room to swell below, and become stout and bushy.

Biennial Course. The method of culture which we have denominated the biennial course, was first brought into notice by Abercrombie, and more recently has been strenuously recommended by Baldwin. Its chief feature is the acceleration of the growth of the plants by the application of higher temperatures than it was formerly supposed they could bear. They are, in fact, made to attain the growth of two summers in one.

About the beginning of March, the most forward of the plants potted over winter, or the suckers kept in tan, are taken out, the earth or tan shaken away, and the roots shortened. They are then put into pots about five inches in diameter, which are plunged into frames or pits heated with tan or stable litter. They are shaded as usual, and after they begin to grow, receive moderate waterings. When the roots appear around the balls of soil, which will be about the middle of June, the plants are again shifted into larger pots, from six to seven inches in diameter, and, if the heat be declining, are removed into other pits or beds. In the beginning of August they are transferred into larger pots, in which, unless they are intended for [7:11:663]early spring forcing, they stand during the winter; and in February they are finally shifted into pots twelve or fourteen inches in diameter. For spring forcing, the last shifting takes place in October, and the pots may be two inches narrower. At every shifting the ball of earth is preserved entire. From March the temperature is gradually increased; little air is admitted, even in strong sunshine, and a lively bottom heat is kept up by means of repeated linings. When there is danger of burning the roots, the pots are partially drawn up, or even set upon the surface of the tan. The following table will give an idea of the temperature (Fahrenheit’s thermometer) and its progressive increase:

During Night. During Day.

March 60° to 70° 70° to 80 a

April 70 — 75 80 — 85

May 75 — 80 90 — 100

June 80 — 85 100 — 120

After the beginning of July, the heat is allowed to de cline by degrees, until it arrive at the winter temperature of 60°. It is to be understood, however, that these temperatures regard only stable dung or tan heat; and that too applied to crowns, as the larger suckers seldom require more than 100°. Where fire-heat is used, and it should always be through the medium of hot-water, the nocturnal temperature should onlyapproach towards 80°; and there should be some expedient for the slow immission of steam into the atmosphere of the pit. During the whole summer care is employed to prevent the plants from being drawn, and for this purpose they are allowed much space, and are placed as near the glass as possible. In August and September abundance of air, and more copious supplies of water, arc given. In winter the chief care is to preserve the roots from damping off, and for this reason, though it is not the common practice, we should prefer winter pits having at least the command of fire-heat.

This mode of driving, as it has been significantly called, is applicable only to the varieties called the Queen, and Ripley’s New Queen. The large growing sorts require a longer period. For this reason it is desirable that both courses of culture should be carried on at one time. The large varieties might be consigned to the triennial course, while the vacancies in either might be made up from the other. That this is practicable, at least in gardens where there are two fruiting houses, may be seen from the tabular compendium of culture given below.

Fruiting-House. — About the beginning of August, the plants, now two years old, are shifted for the last time. The pots are from twelve to fourteen inches in diameter, and the balls are preserved entire. About eight or ten days previously, the bark-pit of the fruiting-house has been cleared out, the old tan screened, if necessary, and fresh material supplied. The pots are then plunged into the bark as deeply as can be done with safety, and the plants are so treated as to keep them in a growing state during the whole of autumn. In winter, the nocturnal temperature is kept at 60°; but towards the end of January it is gradually raised to 70°. This rise, however, should follow, and not precede or be a cause of, the vernal growth of the plants. About the middle of February, the second fruiting-house may be prepared, for the reception of the plants in the biennial succession pit. These are existing in a mild temperature, and start during the general progress of the season.

That period at which pine-apple plants first shew their fruit-stalks, or, as it is technically termed, start, is the most critical in their whole culture. It is generally desirable that this should happen at a certain age, and at a particular season; but these are circumstances over which the cultivator can scarcely be said to have a direct control, and accordingly, while the most successful can hardly deem themselves beyond the reach of failure, the less skilful are almost sure to err. We are not aware that the rationale of starting has been investigated on the principles of vegetable physiology; and it is certain that the most absurd practices have been resorted to, in order to force the plants into fruit. We pretend not to give a theory: but a few practical remarks may be of advantage. It is evident, then, that the plant must be of a certain age, or at least of a certain magnitude, before it will start freely or to good purpose. Suckers of the first year are wholly taken up with the production of roots and foliage; and if any of them happen to start, they exhibit little more than a tuft of leaves where the fruit should be. In the second year a Queen pine is capable of producing a perfect fruit; and in the third year the New Providence and other large varieties arrive at puberty. The solid part of the stem is then observed to have increased in bulk, and to have ascended considerably above the soil. It is of more practical importance, however, to remark, that the fruit-stalks do not appear until the pot is filled with roots. Apparent exceptions there may be to this principle, but in every case where it does not hold good, the plant will be found to be diseased, or the roots to have been violently destroyed. The grower should therefore take care that the roots shall have nearly occupied all the new soil before the end of autumn, and that in the course of the winter the tender fibres be not exsiccated by drought, or rotted by excessive moisture. Again, it is probable that at starting there is a peculiar check in the growth of the plant, which causes it to divert the sap from the formation of leaves, and, like most other vegetables in straitened circumstances, to provide the means of reproduction, by throwing out flower-buds. This diversion of the sap is influenced by the quantity of vigorous fibres, for it is observed that when, from some accident, plants not well furnished in this respect, do shew fruit, they bestow the greater part of the sap upon the leaves. Further, it is not a mere suspension of vegetation, otherwise fruit would be produced by every plant which has had the roots cut from it in the manner noticed above. Lastly, it is probable that the proper check consists in a transition from growth, however slight, to a temporary suspension of vegetation, which again is followed by a copious flow of the sap, circumstances which, as might be easily shewn, occur both in the winter and summer starting. If these imperfect observations be correct, it follows that starting is a natural process, requiring certain conditions in the state of the plant, and therefore not to be forced by violent treatment, or any sudden changes in temperature and watering.

After the plants have shewn fruit, they are never shifted; but the surface soil may be removed, and replaced by a little fresh and rich compost. Water is supplied from time to time as necessity requires; but it is impossible to give any definite rule on this subject. The observant gardener will soon, from experience, discover the proper measure. Water should never be given in a colder state than the average temperature of the house; when, therefore, there is no tank within the house, the watering-pots should be filled, and left in the house for some time before the •water be applied. Fire-heat is kept up either continuously or at intervals, during the greater part of the season. It should always be moderate, never exceeding, by itself, 7θ o ∙ During sunshine, the temperature may range from 70° to 100°. The greater proportion there is of the latter the better. Whilst the fruit is swelling, care must be taken to carry on the growth of the plant with equability and moderation. Violent checks are pernicious: they debilitate the stalk, and cause a stringiness in the fruit. As the fruit approaches maturity, water is gradually withheld, lest the flavour should be injured. Pine-apples should be cut a short time before they attain complete maturity. The [7:11:664]larger varieties will keep only a day or two; the smaller varieties a week or more.

The following tabular compendium is from Abercrombie, altered, however, in some of its details, to suit the idea of two crops a-year. To execute this plan, two fruiting-houses or pits, and one succession-pit, would be required, together with a variety of hot-beds, or pits for the nursing department. It is necessary to premise, that crowns and suckers are usually potted soon after they are taken off, and that August 15. may be considered the date at which the whole operations of potting should be finished. When there is only a biennial course, it commences from about February 14.
[table]

I he Melonry —a department deriving its name from the melon, the principal plant cultivated in it—is an important appendage of the forcing garden. After noticing some of the most necessary apparatus employed in it, we shall treat of the melon, cucumber, &c., and their culture respectively.

The common hot-bed frame is most usually employed, and is so well known, as scarcely to require description. It is a rectangular box, with sliding sashes, which are single, in pairs, or in threes. The length of the sash is five or six feet, and its breadth about three feet and a half. The back of the frame is about double the height of the front, and the slope is set towards the south. When used, it is placed on a bed of fermenting stable litter, from three to six feet in thickness, according to the purpose to which it is to be applied, or the severity of the season.

The Alderston Melon Pit, of which fig. 6, Plate CCXCIII. is a section, is partly above and partly below ground. The front and back walls a, a, are of brick, supported on piers or stone pillars: b, b, are spaces inclosed within outer walls, and covered with boards to contain linings, which communicate, without any object intervening, with the fermenting substances in the interior of the pit. These spaces may be two feet wide: the interior pit should seldom be more than six feet in breadth. A principal quality of this structure is its neatness and cleanliness. Caled. Hortic. Mem. vol. ii. p. 217.

West’s Melon and Cucumber Pit is also built of brick. It has, Plate CCXCIII. fig. 7, a chamber a to contain dung; b a square opening by which the dung is introduced; c rafters of wood or cast iron, sustaining the interior soil; d, d, openings to permit the ascent of steam. The walls are nine inches thick, and the pit may be seven feet wide inside measure. Lond. Hort. Trans, vol. iv. p. 220.

Atkinson’s Melon Pit, Plate CCXCII. fig. 10, is a brick structure. The back wall a and the end walls are four inches thick, built in the pigeon-hole fashion, that is, with square interstices between the bricks. The front wall b is double: the interior portion is brick in bed, the exterior brick on edge, with piers under each rafter. The included space communicates with the inside of the bed c. The pit d is filled with fermenting litter or tanners’ bark: e, e, are spaces for linings. This pit, according to the experience of the Horticultural Society of London, has been found “far superior to any other yet constructed.” Trans, vol. vi. p. 373. The whole is sometimes formed of wood, or sometimes only the part above ground.

Besides these, pits constructed on the principles exhibited in Plate CCXCII. figs. 2 and 11, may also be employed.

The extent of the melonry must depend upon the size of the garden, and the amount of the demand. Where there is a large family, and especially where pine-apples are cultivated (to the forwarding of which some portion of the melonry may frequently be auxiliary), sixty or seventy sashes may be considered as a moderate complement.

The Melon (Cucumis Meld) has long been cultivated in Britain, but the period of its introduction and its native country are not well ascertained. The plant is a tender annual, requiring considerable care and skill to rear it in perfection; but it repays the labours of the horticulturist by affording a large, and to most persons a highly palatable fruit. The varieties are numerous, and, from their tendency to sport or vary, are rather fugitive in their duration. Many of the old favourites have disappeared, and those at present in vogue will doubtless take the same course, or will at least assume new forms, while they retain their old names. In these circumstances, it is deemed unnecessary to enter into minute description, or to do more than give a list of the sorts at present deserving of cultivation. It may be premised, that they all belong to the species usually called the Musk-Melon. The Water melon [7:11:665](Cucurbita Citrullus) appertains to another genus, and is seldom reared in this country except as a curiosity.

Early Cantaloupe, Des Carmes,

Scarlet-fleshed Cantaloupe, Green-fleshed Egyptian. Early Polignac, Green-fleshed Italian,

Smooth Scarlet-fleshed, Daree Persian,

Golden Rock, Green Hoosainee Persian,

Silver Rock, Keiseng Persian,

Cephalonian, Sweet Melon of Ispahan.

It is important that none but such seeds as have been procured from approved genuine specimens of the several sorts should be sown. In general, the fresher or more recent that garden seeds are, the better; but the case is different with the melon. Here it is desirable that the seeds should have been kept in a dry state for some years: it is found that plants produced from recent seeds push too vigorously, sending their shoots to a great length before they shew a single fruit; while those from old seeds are less luxuriant in growth, but more fruitful.

The melon succeeds best in a strong, rich soil. A compost, formed of two-thirds of rotted turf, and one-third of old cow-dung, will be found very suitable. This should be prepared for a year or two before it be employed in the melon frame.

There are generally several, perhaps three, successive crops of melons raised in large gardens. It is seldom expedient to sow before the middle or end of January, and sometimes it is soon enough a month later. A seed-bed capable of receiving a frame with a single sash is previously prepared. This bed, composed of fermenting stable litter, should be of considerable thickness, perhaps about five feet. Immediately upon its formation, the frame and sash are placed on it, and they are kept close till the heat begin to rise, when the hot vapour is permitted to escape. Three or four days after the bed has been formed, it is covered over to the depth of three inches with earth prepared beforehand. Rich, light, dry earth, is best adapted for this purpose; and that it may be dry enough, it is proper to use such as may have been protected from rain during winter. A few small flower-pots are filled with the same earth, and kept in the hot-bed, that the soil in them may acquire a suitable temperature. The seeds are then sown in the flower-pots, and covered half an inch deep; after which the pots are plunged a little way into the earth of the bed.

When hot vapour rises copiously, fresh air is admitted by raising the sash a little. The frame is covered every evening by sunset with mats, and is again exposed in the morning about nine o’clock, sooner or later according to the state of the weather. A single mat is sufficient at first, as the heat in the bed is generally strong. In two or three days after the seed has been sown, the plants appear, when the glasses are raised a little, to admit fresh air, and permit the escape of vapour. Unless this be done, the plants are apt either to damp off or become yellow and sickly. To guard against the casualties of the season, and the chance of miscarriage, it is proper to make two other sowings at short intervals, so that, if any accident befall the first plants, the others may supply their place. Two or three days after the plants have come up, they are transplanted into other small pots, only two or three being put in each pot. If the earth be very dry, it is now moistened with a little tepid water. The pots are then plunged into the earth, and much care and watchfulness are employed to prevent the roots from being scorched. When the transplanted seedlings begin to grow, they are watered occasionally in the warmest part of the day. As the heat of the hot-bed declines, it is supported by linings, applied from time to time, around its outer surface. The lining should not exceed fifteen or eighteen inches in thickness, and should rise above the level of the bed, upon the sides of the frame.

About a month after the seeds have been sown, hot-beds or pits are prepared for the reception of the young plants. For the first crop, it is generally found that hot-beds are preferable. These are formed about three feet and a half thick, and of such extent as to receive several frames of two or three lights each. The same precautions with respect to vapour, and other matters connected with the fermentation, are observed as in the seed-bed. When the violence of the heat has begun to subside, the surface of the bed is covered, to the depth of two inches, with dry, light earth; and under the centre of each sash, a conical heap of the same soil is raised to the height of ten inches. By the following day, the earth generally acquires a sufficient warmth, and the bed is ready for the reception of the plants. The pots containing the young plants should be well watered the day previous to their being ridged out, to make the ball adhere together, and come out of the pot entire. After the tops of the hillocks of earth have been flattened a little, in the centre of each a hole is made capable of containing one of the balls of earth which is to be turned out of the pots. Some of the pots containing the strongest plants are selected, and the young melon-plants are plunged out, with balls entire, into the ridges or hillocks already mentioned. After this operation has been performed, they receive a gentle watering. The sashes are replaced, and for some time, unless the vapour be strong, little air is given. Care is taken to prevent the tender fibres from being scorched. When the roots begin to show themselves through the surface of the hillocks, a quantity of fresh earth is applied all around them, and in a week or fortnight after, the whole surface of the bed is covered nearly as high as the top of the hills.

When the plants have got two or three rough leaves, the top of the stalklet, which now begins to elongate, is pinched off, and from the axillae of the leaves lateral shoots are soon shot forth. These are fastened down with pegs, and are so disposed as regularly to cover the surface of the bed. These laterals will sometimes show flowers at the second or third joints; if they do not, they are topped in their turn, and afford laterals, which seldom fail to be fruitful. As these runners advance, they are trained along the surface, and all weak useless shoots are removed. This should be done frequently, as it is found injurious to cut out a great quantity of shoots and foliage at one time. No plant, as has been shown by Mr Knight (Hortic. Trans, vol. i.), is more beholden to its leaves, both as respects health and flavour of fruit, than the melon.

It is seldom proper to leave more than one fruit on each shoot, and in the large kinds perhaps not more than four or five fruit should be left on one plant. When the fruit begins to swell, a slate or piece of tile is laid under each, to separate it from the damp soil of the bed. During the process of growth, the fruit is usually turned about once a-week, to expose all sides to the rays of the sun; but, in turning, care must be taken not to twist the foot-stalk, as this would destroy the fruit altogether. At this period water is given with moderation, and abundance of air is admitted. The fruit should be gathered before it be quite ripe. Its approaching maturity is known by the appearance of a number of cracks near the footstalk, and by the emission of a rich odour. It is cut in the morning, and is kept in a cool place till served up; if this precaution be not attended to, there will be a considerable deficiency of flavour.

The average heat required for the successful growth of melons is about 70° Fahrenheit. In the common hot-bed, this is maintained by defending the bed during the night, and by applying linings from time to time. In pits heated by hot-water circulation, this is easily effected at any season; and were it not that the included air is apt to become too dry, especially in winter, when much heat is required, such pits would doubtless supersede the hot-bed frame altogether. At present the old methods, partly it may be from custom, [7:11:666] are still principally employed. It is unnecessary to give minute directions respecting the management of melons in pits; as, in these, the mode of procedure recommended for hot-beds, with some trifling variations, will also prove successful.

The Cucumber (Cucumis sativus), like the melon, is a tender annual, requiring the assistance of artificial heat. It properly belongs to the class of culinary vegetables, being used in salads and pickles, and has long been cultivated in this country. Its culture, however, requires the closest attention of the gardener. The sorts commonly grown are,

The Early Frame, Green Turkèy,

Long Prickly, White Turkey,

Short Prickly, White Spined.

Of these, the long and short prickly are well suited for ridges in the open air.

The culture of early cucumbers so much resembles that of the melon, that it would be useless repetition to enter into minute details. The cucumber, indeed, is somewhat the hardier, and therefore in summer requires less heat; but in every other respect the management of the plants is precisely the same. The first crop of cucumbers is generally sown in the end of December, or the beginning of January; a second in March, and a third in June. In summer, cucumber plants, after they have been fairly established, require scarcely any other attention than to thin them out occasionally, and to supply them with water.

Cucumbers, particularly the prickly sorts, are often raised in the warmer months under hand glasses. A cavity is made in a border in front of a wall or other warm place, and is filled with hot dung. This dung is covered with earth, and two or three plants are put into it, and sheltered with a hand-glass. They are watered and dressed from time to time; and by this means a sufficient supply of small cucumbers, or girkens, is obtained for pickling.

In the southern counties of England, pickling cucumbers are easily raised without any artificial heat, being sown in drills in the open ground. The earth is made fine and level, and shallow circular hollows are formed with the hand, a foot -wide, and half an inch deep in the middle. The distance between each hollow is three feet and a half, and the distance between the rows five or six feet. Eight or ten seeds are deposited in each cavity. This is done in the beginning of June. When the plants appear, they are thinned out to three or four, the weakest or least healthy being rejected. They are watered occasionally, according to the state of the weather. The cucumbers are gathered chiefly from the middle to the end of August. Vast quantities of these open ground girkens are taken to the London market. The village of Sandy, in Bedfordshire, has been known to furnish 10,000 bushels of drilled cucumbers in one week.

Gourds, species or varieties of the species of the genus Cucurbita, may be grown like drilled cucumbers, or trained against walls or on pales. Though occasionally used as esculents, they are regarded chiefly as curiosities. The Succada, or vegetable marrow, is a very useful sort, and in request for the table, being eaten stewed with sauce or mashed like turnips. It may be raised in an exhausted melon-frame or pit; or it may be sown under a hand-glass, and afterwards transplanted into a good aspect, and trained against a wall or trellis.

The Mushroom (Agaricus campestris), though not properly an inmate of the melonry, may appropriately enough, from the nature of its culture, be taken along with the plants grown in this department of the garden. It is a well-known fungus, a general favourite, and esteemed a delicacy during winter and the spring months.

Mushrooms used to be grown in ridges or prepared beds, in sheds, or covered with litter in the open air. Of late years, the Russian form of the mushroom-house has been introduced into Britain by Mr Isaac Oldacre, and is now in very general use. Its arrangement may be seen by inspecting the back part of the vinery fig. 3, Plate CCXCI. Two tiers of boxes, three in each tier, and supported by a strong frame-work, are constructed round the whole house, with the exception of the spaces occupied by a door and two windows. The boxes may be from two feet and a half to three feet and a half broad, and about a foot deep. The house is supposed to be heated by hot-water circulation. In the centre d is a narrow pit, by which the house may be worked by means of fermenting litter instead of the hot-water, or in which rhubarb stalks, &c. may be forced. The windows are furnished with shutters to regulate the admission of light, and are moveable, to permit the ingress of air.

Mushrooms are propagated from what is technically called spawn, which is a collection of vegetable threads pervading dried dung or other similar substance, having the smell of mushrooms, and apparently the fungus in its undeveloped state. It may be obtained from old pastures, decayed mushroom beds, or purchased from nurserymen in the form of bricks charged with spawn. When once obtained, it may, like leaven, be indefinitely preserved. If not otherwise procured, it may be produced, or in a manner generated, by placing quantities of horse-dung and rich earth in alternate layers, and covering the whole with straw, to exclude the rain and air. Mushroom spawn commonly appears in the heap in about two months after the dung and earth have been laid together. The droppings of stall-fed horses, or of such as have been kept on dry food, are found preferable for this purpose.

The old method of growing mushrooms has been referred to above; and, as it has some conveniences, particularly for those who have not extensive apparatus, it may be proper to give some account of it. The beds are formed of horse-droppings which have been laid out for some time without having fermented, and may be made two or three feet broad, and of any length. A layer of dung about eight or ten inches thick is first deposited, and covered with light dryish earth to the depth of two or three inches; then another layer of dung of the same thickness, covered like the former; and lastly a third layer, with its covering. The whole should grow narrower as it advances in height. When the bed is finished, it is covered with straw to protect it from rain, and from the parching influences of the sun and wind. In ten days the bed will be ready for planting or spawning. Pieces of spawn bricks are inserted in the sloping sides of the bed, about four or five inches asunder. A layer of fine earth is then placed over the bed, and the whole is covered with a thick coat of straw. When the weather is temperate, mushrooms will appear in about a month after the bed has been made; but at other times, a much longer period may elapse. The principal things to be attended to are to preserve a moderate state of moisture, and a proper degree of warmth; and the treatment at different seasons must vary accordingly.

Of the many other methods of raising mushrooms, Mr Oldacre’s, already referred to, may deserve to be particularised. In forming the compost, he procures fresh short dung from a stable, or from the path of a horse-mill. To this is added about a fifth part of sheep-droppings, or of the cleanings of a cowhouse, or of a mixture of both. The whole ingredients are thoroughly mixed and incorporated. A stratum of the prepared mixture, about three inches thick, being deposited in the boxes already described, is beat together with a flat wooden mallet. Another layer is added, and beat as before; and this is repeated till the beds [7:11:667] be rather more than half a foot thick, and very compact. The boxes are then placed in the mushroom-house, or any out-house where a slightly increased temperature can be commanded. A degree of fermentation generally takes place; but if heat be not soon perceptible, another layer must still be added, till sufficient action be excited. When the beds are milk-warm, or between 80° and 9Q 0 Fahrenheit, some holes are dibbled in the mass to receive the spawn. The holes are left open for some time; and when the heat is on the decline, but before it be quite gone, a piece of spawn-brick is thrust into each opening, and the holes are closed with a little compost. A week afterwards the boxes are covered with a smooth coating, an inch and half thick, of rich mould mixed with about a fifth part of horse-droppings. The apartment is now kept as nearly and equably at 55° Fahrenheit as circumstances will allow. When the boxes become dry, a little soft water may be sprinkled over them, but sparingly and with circumspection. The more that free air can be admitted, the flavour of the mushrooms is the better; but the exclusion of frost is indispensable. If a number of boxes have been prepared at first, a few only at a time may be covered with mould and brought into bearing, the rest being covered and cropped in succession, as mushrooms may be in demand.

Mr Edward Callow, in a tract on the artificial growth of mushrooms, describes a method in which the pits are wrought by means of dung heat. His structure somewhat resembles Atkinson’s melon-pit, only the roof is covered with thatch, and a suite of air-flues is formed within the interior of the pit, with branches crossing the principal bed which occupies the floor. Linings of fermenting litter are applied on the exterior of the house at the back and front. The atmosphere of the pit, in the earlier stage, is kept at 55° to 65° Fahrenheit, and when the bed is in full bearing, about 70°. The other details of this method scarcely differ from those of Mr Oldacre’s.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

In this department those plants are cultivated which, after being subjected to various culinary processes, are used as articles of food. They may be enumerated in the order of their importance, each, for the sake of precision, being accompanied by its botanical name.

Cabbage Tribe.

The Brassica oleracea, Lin. is a plant indigenous to our rocky shores; but no one, seeing it waving in its native habitat, could possibly anticipate that it would ever appear in our gardens, disguised as the ponderous drumhead or sugar-loaf cabbage, or on our tables as the delicate cauliflower and broccoli. The cultivated varieties are numerous; but the following are the most important.

Common White Cabbage. The economical uses of this vegetable are well known. Its principal subvarieties are the following:

Small Early Dwarf, East Ham,

Early May, Large Sugar-loaf,

Dwarf Vanack. Drumhead,

Early York, Scotch,

Chinese, Tronchuda.

The first three are adapted for early crops; the next three for use in the end of summer and autumn, and the others for winter. The leaf-stalks of the Tronchuda are used like sea-cale.

The Cabbage is propagated from seed, which may be sown in beds four feet wide, and covered over with a thin layer of earth. The proper seasons for this operation are file middle of August, the beginning of March, and Midsummer. By observing these times, and employing different sorts, the succession may be kept up through the year. For the early spring crops, the late sown plants are in October transferred from the seed-bed to some open and well manured ground, where they are arranged in rows two feet asunder. The principal supply may be put out in February, affording the larger sorts more width between the rows. The crops sown in spring are planted out in May and June. For subsequent culture, all that is necessary is, to keep the ground clear of weeds, and to draw up the soil about the stems. In some situations watering in summer is beneficial.

The cabbages grown late in autumn and in beginning of winter are denominated Coleworts, from a kindred vegetable no longer cultivated. The object is to have them with open or slightly closed hearts. Two sowings are made, in the middle of June and in July, and the seedlings, when they acquire sufficient strength, are planted out in lines, a foot or fifteen inches asunder, and eight or ten inches in the rows.

The Red Cabbage, of which the large or Dutch red is the common variety, is much used for pickling. It is sown along with the white varieties in August and in spring, and the culture is in every respect the same.

The Savoy. This variety, like the preceding, forms into a close head, but is distinguished by the wrinkling of its leaves. It is a very useful vegetable during the winter months. The principal subvarieties are the Early Green, the Yellow, and the Winter, of each of which there are various forms. The seed is sown in autumn and in the end of spring, and two plantings may take place, in April, and in June or July.

Brussels Sprouts. This vegetable is allied to the foregoing, but does not close or cabbage. From the axillae of the stem-leaves proceed little rosettes or sprouts, which resemble savoy cabbages in miniature. The seed should be sown in spring, and the seedlings planted out before midsummer, during showery weather. In October the plants should have additional earth drawn to their roots, to firm them, and save them from being destroyed by frost. The earliest sprouts become fit for use in November, and they continue good, or even improving in quality, till the month of March following. Mr Van Mons of Brussels mentions {London Hortic.Mem N<A. iii.), that by successive sowings the sprouts are there obtained for the greater part of the year. In spring, when the plants have a tendency to run to flower, their growth is checked by lifting them, and replanting them in a slanting direction, in a cool shady situation.

Open Kale. The principal subvarieties are:

German Greens, or Curlies, Buda Kale,

Scotch Kale, or Green Borecole, Jerusalem Kale,

Purple, or Brown Kale, Woburn Kale.

Delaware Greens,

Of these the three first are considered the most valuable, and are the sorts chiefly cultivated in this country. The seed is sown at various times from February to May, and the seedlings are planted out in moist weather during summer, in rows two feet asunder. The Buda Kale is sown in May, planted out in September, and being hardy, affords a supply in the following spring.

Of the Turnip-rooted Cabbage, or Kohl-rube, there are two varieties, one swelling above ground, the other in it. There is nothing peculiar in the culture, unless that, in the case of the first mentioned, the earth should not be drawn so high as to cover the globular part of the stem, which is the part used. The seed may be sown in the beginning of June, and the seedlings transplanted in July; they are thus fit for use at the. approach of winter.

Cauliflower. This variety is cultivated for the sake of the flower-buds, which form a large dense cluster or head, and afford one of the most delicate products of the [7:11:668]kitchen-garden. There are three subvarieties, the Early, the Late, and the Reddish-stalked; but these seem to present scarcely any well-marked distinction.

The sowing, for the first or spring crop, is made in the latter half of the month of August; and, in the neighbourhood of London, the growers adhere as nearly as possible to the 21st day. A second sowing takes place in February on a slight hot-bed, and a third in April or May.

The cauliflower being tender, the young plants require protection in winter. For this purpose they are sometimes pricked out in a warm situation ąt the foot of a wall with a southern exposure, where, in severe weather, they are also covered with hoops and mats. A better method is to plant them thickly in the ground under a common hot-bed frame, and to secure them from cold by coverings, and from damp, by giving air in mild weather. For a very early supply, it is useful to be at the pains of potting a few scores of plants; these are to be kept under glass during winter, and plunged out in spring, defending them with a hand-glass, and watering them when needful. Sometimes, as in marketgardens, patches of three or four plants are sheltered by hand-glasses throughout the winter in the open border. It is advantageous to prick out the spring-sown plants into some sheltered place, before they be finally transplanted and committed to the open ground in May. The later crop, the transplantation of which may take place at various times, is treated like early cabbages. Cauliflower succeeds best in a rich soil and a warm situation. After planting, all that is necessary is to hoe the ground, and draw up the soil about the roots.

It is found that this vegetable, being induced to form its large and crowded clusters of flower-buds in the autumn, may be kept in perfection over winter. Cauliflowers which have been planted out in July, will be nearly ready for use in October. Towards the end of that month, the most compact and best shaped arc selected and lifted carefully with the spade, keeping a ball of earth attached to the roots. Some of the large outside leaves are removed, in order that the plants may occupy less room, and at the same time, any points of leaves that immediately overhang the flower are cut off. Where there are peach-houses or vineries the plants may be arranged in the borders of these, together, but without touching. Or they may be placed in the same manner in hot-bed frames: In mild dry weather the glass frames are drawn off, but they are kept close in rain; and in severe frost they are thickly covered with mats. In this way cauliflower may be kept in an excellent state for several months.

Broccoli has a close affinity to cauliflower, being, like it, of Italian origin, and differing chiefly in the greater hardiness of its constitution. The subvarieties are numerous, and exceedingly diversified. The following are those which are in most repute at present. The first five produce their buds in autumn, the others in spring:

Purple Cape, Cream-coloured,

Green Cape, Sulphur-coloured,

Grange’s Early, Spring White,

Early Purple, Late Purple,

Early White, Late Danish.

Of the autumnal sorts there should be two sowings, one in the middle of April, and one in the middle of May. As the plants acquire strength they are shifted into the open ground, where they are placed in lines two feet apart. The Cape varieties are of great excellence, being of a delicious flavour when dressed; but on account of the plants being apt to start into flower, their cultivatioyι has in many places been neglected, With proper management, however, this tendency may be overruled. The first sowing may be made on any border of light soil, scattering the seed very sparingly. In about a month the plants may be transferred directly into a quarter consisting of sandy loam, well enriched with rotten dung. The greater part of the second crop should be planted in pots likewise directly from the seed-bed. These pots are to be sunk in the open ground till the heads be formed; and in the end of November they are to be placed under a glass frame, where very fine broccoli may be produced during the severest weather of winter. Mr Ronalds of Brentford recommends (London Hortic. Ťrans. vol. iii.) that the Early White, which is also a very fine sort, should be sown on a hot-bed, and treated like the secondary crop of cauliflower.

The spring varieties are extremely valuable, as they come at a season when the finer vegetables are scarce. They are sown in the middle of March or the beginning of April, and afford a supply from March to May inclusive of the following year.

To obtain seed of the Brassica tribe, true specimens of the different varieties should be selected, in such a state of advancement as that they will flower as early as possible in spring. They should be planted in an open situation, and kept as far apart from other kinds of the same tribe as may be. As they are very liable to cross or hybridize, it is perhaps better, except in the case of some favourite variety, to procure supplies from a respectable seedsman, from whom they are almost uniformly to be had genuine, the extensive seed-growers being at great pains to prevent intermixture of crops.

Leguminous Plants.

Of the Pea (Pisum sativum), there are two principal varieties, the Field or gray hog pea, and the Garden Pea. The latter alone requires our attention here. Its chief subvarieties are:

Early Frame, Knight’s Tall Marrowfat,

Early Charlton, Dwarf Marrowfat,

Bishop’s Dwarf" Prussian Blue,

Dwarf Marrowfat, Prussian Green,

Tall Marrowfat, Leadman’s Dwarf,

Imperial, Sugar.

The first three are suitable for early crops, and the others for successional supplies. In the sugar pea, of which there are two sorts, the tall and dwarf, the inner filmy lining of the pod is absent, and the young legumes are used like kidney-beans.

The first crop of pease is sown about the beginning of November, in front of a south wall; and these, after they have appeared above ground, are defended by spruce-fir branches, or other spray, throughout the winter. In January and February other sowings are made, and sometimes the seed is put into flower-pots and boxes, and the young plants afterwards plunged out in spring. From the end of February moderate sowings should be made twice a month till the middle of August, thus ensuring a supply of successive crops of delicate green pease. For the latest crops the early frame and the Charlton are the best. Pease are sown in rows from three to five feet asunder, according to the height which the different sorts are known usually to attain. As they grow up the earth is drawn up to the roots, and the stems are supported with stakes, a practice which, in a well kept garden, is always advisable, although it is said that the early varieties, when recumbent, arrive sooner at maturity.

The early crops come into use in May and June, and by repeated sowings, the supplies are prolonged to November. Pease grown late in autumn are subject to mildew, to obviate which, Mr Knight has proposed the following method. The ground is dug over in the usual way, and the spaces to be occupied by the future rows of pease are well soaked with water. The mould on each side is then collected, so as to form ridges seven or eight inches high, and these ridges are well watered. On these the [7:11:669]seed is sown in single rows. If dry weather at any time set in, water is supplied profusely once a-week. In this way the plants continue green and vigorous resisting mildew, and not yielding till subdued by frost.

Of the Garden-bean (Faba vulgaris), amongst many varieties may be mentioned:

The Early Mazagan, Green Genoa,

Early Lisbon, Windsor,

Dwarf Fan or Cluster, Green Windsor,

Long Pod, White-blossomed.

The Mazagan and Lisbon are sown in November, and are defended during winter in the same manner as early pease, but they are more difficult to preserve. The same sorts should be sown again in January and February. In March the Dwarf Cluster and Long-pod may be put in the ground for a general crop, and subsequently the Windsor and White-blossomed. The latter is a variety of considerable merit, and when the pods are taken at an early stage, they have little of the peculiar bean flavour, or only enough to render them pleasant. During the growth of the bean crop, all the culture that is necessary is, that the earth be drawn up about the roots. Topping the plants is usually practised, being found to promote the filling of the pods.

Kidney-bean. Under this general title are included the common kidney-bean (Phaseolus vulgaris, Lin.) of many varieties; and also the Scarlet Runner (P. multiflorus, Willd.) Kidney-beans are the haricos of the French, who enumerate upwards of 200 varieties. The sorts usually cultivated in this country are,

Early Yellow, White Canterbury,

Early lied Speckled, Black Speckled,

Early Black, Brown Speckled,

Early White, Scarlet Runner,

White Battersea, Dutch White.

; The first four are the earliest; the others are more productive, and better fitted for a general crop. As the plant is of tropical origin, our climate is scarcely sufficient for the extensive cultivation of the ripe beans, which are the principal object in France and Italy. The immature legumes are chiefly used in this country.

It is seldom advantageous to sow kidney-beans in the open ground before the middle or end of April; after which period successive sowings may be made every fourteen days to the end of July. The plants are grown in rows two feet apart, and the earth is carefully drawn to the roots. Kidney-beans are well adapted for forcing, in hot-beds, or in hot-houses; the climate of the peach-house, when it can be obtained, being considered the best. The sowings may begin in January; they are made in pots, and a supply may be thus obtained in the months of March, April, and May. The dwarf speckled is commonly used in hot-houses, and the early white in hot-beds.

Esculent Roots.

The Potato (Solanum tuberosum). This well-known plant is a native of the elevated regions of equatorial America. It was introduced into Europe about the middle of the 16th century, but remained little known or regarded till within the last hundred years: it is now so generally cultivated, as to have effected almost an economical revolution in this country. Most of the original British sorts were derived from Ireland. Its multitudinous varieties now set enumeration at defiance, and many are indeed appearing and disappearing every year. The culture of the late sorts properly belongs to the farm, and when the gardener has to take them under his care, he will find it best to adopt such as are common in the agriculture of the district. Of the early kinds, most of which are supposed to have originated in Lancashire, the following may be esteemed the best:

Early Royal Dwarf, Early Frame,

American Early, Early Kidney,

Early Ash-leaved, Walnut-leaved Kidney.

Potatoes are commonly propagated by dividing the tubers, leaving to each segment one or two eyes or buds. The sets are then planted by the aid of the dibble or spade, in rows at a distance varying from fifteen inches to two feet. It has been suggested by Mr Knight (London II ortie. Trans. vol. vii.), and his views have been amply confirmed by experiment, that by planting whole tubers, and at greater distances, a larger produce will be obtained. Mr Knight proposed to leave four feet between the rows, a distance which, except with the larger varieties, was found to be too great. An experienced horticulturist in Scotland states, that by planting whole tubers, and by leaving in the case of dwarfs two feet, and in the tall varieties two feet and a half, between the rows, a return from one-third to one-half more was obtained than could be had from the old method. Of course a greater quantity of tubers are required for planting, but these bear no proportion to the great increase which results; and besides, early potatoes at the planting season being unfit for eating, there is little economy in sparing them.

The earliest crops should, if possible, be placed in a light soil and in a warm situation, and are planted about the middle of March. Sometimes the eyes of the tubers are made to spring or vegetate on a hot-bed, and the plants are put out as soon as the leaves can bear the open air. Perhaps it is better, as recommended by Mr Saul of Lancaster ( Gardener’s Mag. vol. ii.), to promote incipient vegetation in some warm place, as a house or greenhouse, by laying a woollen cloth or some other covering over them. When the sprouts are about two inches long, he plants them out towards the end of March, and thus procures young potatoes in seven or eight weeks. A secondary planting of tubers should be made before the middle of April. When the stems are a few inches above ground, the earth should be drawn to them; an operation, however, which, while it improves the crop, delays its maturity for two or three weeks. Mr Knight recommends removing the flowers as they appear, and states that by this means the produce is increased by a ton per aere. The fine early varieties, however, scarcely produce any flowers.

An important faet in the cultivation of the potato was observed about the year 1806, by the late Mr Thomas Dickson of Edinburgh, viz. that the most healthy and productive plants were to be obtained, by employing as seedstock unripe tubers, or even by planting only the wet or least-ripened ends of long-shaped potatoes; and he proposed this as a preventive of the well-known disease called the Curl. This view has been confirmed by Mr Knight. An intelligent writer in the Gardener’s Magazine (vol. ii. p. 171) states a method by which sprouting of the eyes is accelerated. He takes up the seed potatoes a considerable time before they are ripe, and exposes them for some weeks to the influence of a scorching sun. The resulting crop is at least a fortnight earlier; but it is not said how this practice affects the curl.

The forcing of early potatoes on hot-beds has long been practised; but it is attended with considerable trouble and expense. Small supplies of young waxy tubers are now often produced during winter, in boxes placed in a mushroom-house, or in a common cellar, if free from frost. In October, old potatoes are placed in layers, alternating with a mixture of tree leaves and light 'mould. Vegetation soon proceeds; and there being no opportunity for the unfolding of stems and leaves, the energies of the plants are ex pended in the production of. young tubers. Before mid [7:11:670]winter these often attain the size and appearance of early potatoes; but they are much inferior, being watery and of little flavour.

Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus), or tuberous-rooted sunflower. This plant, which is a native of Brazil, derives its epithet Jerusalem from a corruption of the Italian Girasole, a sunflower, and Artichoke from the resemblance, in flavour, which its tubers bear to the floral receptacles or bottoms of the artichoke. It is propagated by means of its tubers in the manner of potatoes. In March they are planted out in rows three or four feet asunder, and in autumn the new tubers are fit for use. For the sake of convenience, it is advantageous to store them, though the roots are hardy enough to bear the winter frosts. Some, indeed, allow them to remain in the ground, and dig them up when required. In this way a sufficient number of sets are generally left in the ground, and the stalks are thinned into rows in summer; but this is a slovenly mode of treatment, and seldom produces well-flavoured crops.

The Turnip (Brassica Rapa), like the potato, has, to a great extent, migrated into the fields, and become the care of the husbandman more than of the gardener. The following are the most esteemed garden sorts:

Early White Dutch, Early Yellow Maltese,

Early Stone, Dutch Yellow,

Green-topped White, Aberdeen Yellow,

Long White, Long Yellow.

Besides these, the Navet of the French (Brassica Napus v. esculenta) is occasionally cultivated, and more frequently the Swedish Turnip (Brassica campestris v. Napo-brassica, L.), which is a most excellent winter sort, though it belongs more properly to the farm. For early crops, the white Dutch is the principal variety; the other white sorts, and the beautiful yellow Maltese, are useful in summer and in the beginning of autumn. The yellow Dutch being capable of enduring any degree of frost, affords the best winter supplies.

Turnips succeed best in a rich, well-worked soil, of a light or medium quality. The first sowing is made about the end of March, in a warm situation; and it is usual to put in additional sowings, once a fortnight or three weeks, till the end of August. The early crops are sown broadcast, and the later in drills. After the plants have shewn a rough leaf or two, they are thinned out, being left at the distance of eight or ten inches in the drill; and the ground is hoed and kept free from weeds. As turnips which have stood the winter throw up their seed-stalks early in spring, after which their roots become stringy, and are much deteriorated, it is useful to store the turnips in winter, keeping them in a close place, and covering them with straw.

The young plants, while in the seed-leaf, are often destroyed by a small beetle called the turnip-fly (Haltica nemorum). Many remedies have been proposed: it has been found beneficial to dust the rows with quicklime; but perhaps the best precaution is to sow thick, and thus insure a sufficient supply both for the insect and the crop.

The Carrot (Daucus Carota) is one of our native I mbelliferae, but has been much transformed by cultivation. The best varieties are the Early Horn and the Orange Carrot, the former for early, the latter for general cultivation. The carrot loves a light, deep, fresh soil, in which it may be at liberty to push down its long spindle-shaped roots. A few Early Horn carrots may be sown in February on a moderate hot-bed. In the beginning of March, the same sort may be sown in the open air. In April, the orange variety may follow as a general crop: it succeeds best in drills. In many old gardens the early plants are liable to the attacks of a small grub, the larva of some insect; it is therefore a useful precaution to sow a moderate crop of the Early Horn variety in July. After sowing, it is only necessary to thin the plants and keep them clear of weeds. The roots are stored in winter in the manner of turnips.

The Parsnep (Pastinaca sativa) is now less cultivated than it was in Catholic times, when it was a favourite accompaniment to dried fish in Lent. To some its flavour is not agreeable; but it is a very nutritious vegetable, and of easy digestion. Like the carrot, its root is long and tapering, differing chiefly in being of a whitish colour. Its culture is also very much the same.

Red Beet (Beta vulgaris) is a biennial plant, a native of the shores of the south of Europe. The boiled root is eaten cold, either by itself or as a salad: it is also often used as a pickle. The varieties are numerous, but the most common are the Long-rooted, the Short or Turnip-rooted, the Bassano, and the Green-topped. There is a fine French variety called Castelnaudary, from a town in Languedoc; but as yet it is little known in this country.

Red beet prospers in a rich, deep soil, not recently manured, and which has been well pulverized by the spade. During April the seeds may be sown in drills, fifteen inches asunder, and the plants are afterwards to be thinned to eight inches from each other in the lines. In the northern parts of the island, the roots are stored in winter, care being taken not to break them or cut off the leaves too closely, as they bleed when injured.

Skirret (Sium Sisarum) is a native of China, now seldom seen in our gardens. Its tubers are used like parsneps. It is a perennial, and may be propagated by separating the roots in spring; but it succeeds better by annual sowings, which may be made in April.

Scorzonera (Scorzonera Hispanica) and Salsify (Tτa-gopogon porrifolius) are generally associated together in gardens, and are now less cultivated than they deserve. The roots are used in soups, and sometimes as dressed side dishes. They are sown in lines, and treated like the crops of red beet or parsnep.

The Radish (Raphanus sativus) is a native of China. There are two principal varieties, the spindle-rooted and the turnip-rooted radish; and of these the subvarieties are numerous. The following may be mentioned:

Early Frame Scarlet, White Turnip,

Short-topped Scarlet, Yellow Turnip,

Scarlet Salmon, White Spanish,

Long White, Black Spanish.

The first two and the white turnip radish are best suited for early crops; the scarlet salmon for summer, the yellow turnip for autumn, and the white and black Spanish for winter.

Some cultivators sow their earliest crop in November, in a warm situation, at the foot of a wall or in front of a pinery, and continue sowing once a-month, if weather permit, during winter. Others grow their first radishes under frames, aiding vegetation by a slight bottom heat. As the season advances, successional supplies are sown once a fortnight. From the middle of July to the middle of September, the turnip-radishes are sown from time to time; and on the approach of frost they may be stored up in sand like carrots, and kept throughout winter.

Oxalis Roots (Oxalis crenata, J acq. ; 0. arracacha, G. Don) have of late years been cultivated for the table in [7:11:671]this country. The plant produces tubers at the root, somewhat in the manner of the potato; but they are of small size, seldom exceeding that of a walnut. By cultivation, however, by manuring, laying down, earthing up, watering, and other helps known to horticulturists, considerable increase of size in the tubers may be effected. From the mode of culture adopted by the most intelligent gardeners, we conclude that a rich light soil is the most proper (although some cultivators have recommended a poor soiD; that it is useful to forward the plants in a hot-bed, in the way practised with early pease, so as to have them ready to transplant by the middle or end of May; that in planting out, they should be inserted in a sloping position, so that a considerable portion of the stem may be covered by the soil; that earthing up, or drawing up additional soil to the stems in June and July is important; and that laying down the stems horizontally in August, and covering them slightly (to the depth perhaps of two inches) with mould, tends greatly to promote the productiveness. It should be observed that the tubers continue to swell in size till November, or till stopped by frost. It is believed that the largest tubers, having full eyes or buds, yield the strongest plants; and therefore a portion of the largest should always be reserved for seed-stock. Cut sets of these large tubers are, by some cultivators, preferred to whole tubers. The rest, from the size of a filbert to a walnut, go to the cook. We may remark, that till the plant become more common, the very smallest tubers should not be thrown away, but should be carefully preserved, for increasing the extent of the oxalis bed the following season. The mode of dressing for table is simple. The tubers, after being cleaned, are boiled for about ten minutes, or till they be slightly softened; and they are then served up -with white sauce. Some persons merely put them into boiling water for a few minutes; then, pouring off the water, transfer them to a covered saucepan; and place the pan upon hot cinders, drawing some of these near to the lid: in this way the tubers are rendered more dry or mealy. They are of excellent quality and pleasant flavour; somewhat resembling a new potato, with the additional zest of a nut or kernel. The oxalis comes from the same country that afforded us the invaluable potato, and has been extolled as likely to rival it; but this it will never do: a dish of oxalis will form an agreeable variety and adjunct, but no more; bearing to the potato such relation as sea-cale does to asparagus. It may be added, however, that the oxalis crenata is, in other respects, a useful vegetable. The leaves may be used as salad, and form, indeed, the principal salad at Lima. The shoots and young branches are found to make a pleasant purée, having the wood-sorrel flavour; and the larger stems have been used in tarts, in the manner of rhubarb-stalks, and been found more tender.

Alliaceous Plants.

The Onion (Allium Cepd) is too well known to require description: it has been cultivated in this country from time immemorial. Among the varieties may be enumerated:

Strasburgh, Silver-skinned,

Deptford, White Portugal,

Globe, Blood Red,

James’s Keeping, Potato Onion.

Besides these, the Welsh Onion or Ciboule (Allium fistulosum, L.), a native of Siberia, is sometimes grown for scallions. For a general crop, the Strasburgh and Deptford varieties may be esteemed the best. The White Portugal grows to a large size, but does not keep well. The silver-skinned is chiefly used for pickling.

The onion affects a light, rich, well worked soil, which has not been recently manured The principal crop may be sown in the course of the month of March, according to the state of the weather and the dryness of the ground. Onions are grown in beds, four or five feet in width, and are regularly thinned, hoed, and kept free from weeds. About the beginning of September the crop is ripe, which is known by the withering of the leaves; the roots are taken up, and, after being well dried, are stored in a garret or loft, where they may be perfectly secured from damp.

Towards the end of August a secondary crop is sown, to afford a supply of young onions or scallions, as they are called, in the spring months. The Strasburgh and White Portugal may be used for this purpose. Those which are not required for the kitchen being allowed to stand, if the flower-bud is picked out on its first appearance, and the earth is stirred about them, frequently produce bulbs equal in size and quality to the large ones that are imported from the Continent.

Some eminent horticulturists have strongly recommended the transplanting of onions. Mr Knight sows the White Portugal onion in spring under the shade of a tree, where they remain of a diminutive size. They are kept over winter, and are planted out in the succeeding spring. Mr Brown collects all the minute bulbs of the ordinary crop, and uses them in the same way. Mr Macdonald, Dalkeith Park, confines his operations to one summer. He sows in February on a slight hot-bed, or sometimes merely under a glass frame. In the first or second week of April, according to the state of the weather, he transplants the young seedlings in rows, eight inches asunder, and at the distance of four or five inches in the row. Previously to planting, the roots of the seedlings are dipped in a puddle of one part of soot to three parts of earth, an expedient which is found to secure the transplanted onions from the wire-worm. Onions thus treated attain a large size. We have seen autumn-sown onions submitted to a similar management with great success.

The Potato Onion is propagated by the lateral bulbs, which it throws out, under ground, in considerable numbers. It is planted about mid-winter, and ripens in summer. Its flavour is strong, and not unpleasant; but the plant being rather delicate and troublesome in cultivation, is not likely to supersede the common onion.

The Pearl Onion, of recent introduction, and hitherto little known, produces clusters of small bulbs at the root. These little bulbs are of a fine white Colour, like the silver-skinned onion, and very fit for pickling.

The Leck (Allium Porrum) is a native of Switzerland, but has probably been cultivated in this island for many centuries. The varieties are the narrow-leaved or Flanders leek, the Scotch or flag leek, and the broad-leaved or tall London leek. Of these the Scotch leek is considered as the most hardy.

Lecks are sown in beds in spring; and in June or July are planted out in rows fifteen or eighteen inches apart, and six inches asunder between the rows. The tips of the fibrous roots are trimmed before planting. When the weather is moist, it is found beneficial merely to lay the plant into the hole made by the dibble, without closing the earth upon it, the stem being by this means encouraged to swell out and fill the hole.

Shallot (Allium ascalonicum) is a native of Palestine. It is much used in cookery for high-flavoured soups and gravies, and is sometimes put into pickles. It is propagated by off-sets, which are commonly planted in September or October. Some recommend the mixing of soot with the manure as a protection against ma'ggots, by which this plant is greatly infested. Autumn planting, however, is found the best expedient, as the bulbs are ripe before the larvae commence their depredations.
[7:11:672]

Garlic (Allium sativum) and Rocambole (Allium Sco-rodoprasum), though common ingredients in continental cookery, are comparatively seldom used in this country. A few rows will generally be found sufficient. They are propagated by offsets from the roots, or by the bulbils which grow on the flower-stem. The Chive or Cive (Allium Schoenoprasum), a pleasant little native plant, is used occasionally as salad and alliaceous seasoning. A single row may be planted as an edging to an onion bed, and it is easily increased by parting the roots in spring and autumn.

Spinaceous Plants. Spinach (Spinacia oleracea) is an annual plant, and is a native of Western Asia. It has long been cultivated for the sake of its succulent leaves, which, when properly dressed, form a pleasant and nutritious article of food. There are two varieties; the round-leaved or smooth-seeded, and the angular-leaved or prickly-seeded. The latter, as being the most hardy, is used for the winter crop.

The first sowing is made in August, in some sheltered situation; the plants, as they advance, are thinned, and the ground is hoed. In the beginning of winter the outer leaves become fit for use; in mild weather, successive gatherings are obtained, and, with proper management, the crop may be prolonged to the beginning of May.

To afford a succession crop, the seeds of the roundleaved variety should be sown in the end of January, and again in February 7 and March. From this period it is proper to sow small quantities once a fortnight, summer spinach lasting only a very short time. The open spaces between the lines of cauliflower, and others of the cabbage tribe, will generally afford enough of room for these transient crops. They are generally sown in shallow drills, and are thinned out and weeded as may be required.

White Beet (Beta Cicla) is cultivated for the leaves, which are used as spinach. The midribs and stalks of the great white beet, when separated from the leaves, are stewed and eaten as asparagus, under the name of Swiss Chard. The culture does not differ materially from that of the red beet.

New Zealand Spinach (Tetragonia expansa) is a half-hardy annual, a native of New Zealand, from which it was brought by the late Sir Joseph Banks. It is an excellent substitute for spinach; and if well watered, it will continue to afford large quantities of succulent leaves during the hottest weather. It is sown in a pot placed in a melon-frame in March: the seedlings are transplanted into small pots, and kept under cover till the beginning of June, when they are plunged out at two or three feet apart, and treated somewhat like gourds. In gathering the leaves, care must be taken not to injure the leading shoots.

Quinoa Spinach (Chenopodium Quinoa). This vegetable is a native not only of Chile, but of the table land of Mexico It is described and figured by Ruiz and Pavon, and Humboldt informs us, that in Mexicothe leaves are universally used as spinach or greens, and the seeds in soups, or like rice, so that quinoa there vies in utility with the potato itself. Although the plant had been known in Britain for a number of years, it was only during the autumn of 1834 that any considerable portion of seed was ripened or saved in this country. This was accomplished at Boyton in Wiltshire, by Mr Aylmer Bourke Lambert, the well known patron of botany and horticulture. Considering the elevated region in America in which the quinoa is successfully cultivated, there can be no doubt that its herbage will be freely produced in this country; but it seems probable that, in order to secure the ripening of seeds, it may be requisite to place some plants close by a wall having a south or south-west aspect, as is practised with seeding onions; more especially since we are warned by Willdenow, that, in Germany, “semina sub dio non semper perficit.” There are two varieties, the common white-seeded or green quinoa, and the dark-seeded or red quinoa, the former seemingly the more hardy, or at least germinating most freely.

Garden Orache (Atriplex hortensis), Wild Spinach ( Chenopodium Bonus Henricus), and Garden Patience ( Rumex Patientia), are sometimes used in place of çommon spinach; but as, in this country at least, they are deemed rather curious than useful, it may be sufficient to indicate their names.

Asparaginous Plants. Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial plant, a native of the shores of Britain, where it occurs sparingly, and of the steppes in the east of Europe. Though somewhat unpromising while in a state of nature, it affords, in cultivation, an esculent of considerable value, and is therefore grown extensively both in private and in sale gardens. The principal varieties are the red-topped and the green-topped, of which the latter, while it is less succulent, is considered the better flavoured. There are numerous subvarieties, such as the Battersea, Gravesend, Giant, &c·, which differ only slightly or not at all from those already mentioned.

Asparagus, growing naturally on loose sand, loves a light deep soil, through which it may be able to shoot its long stringy roots. Two feet and a half is considered a desirable depth, but in France the ground is sometimes prepared, by sifting, to the double of that depth. A considerable portion of well-rotted dung or of recent sea-weed is laid in the bottom of the trench, which may be from two to three feet deep; and another top-dressing of manure should be digged in preparatory to planting or sowing. The older horticulturists used to grow their asparagus in beds four or five feet wide, with intervening alleys of about eighteen inches in breadth. At present, in Scotland, it is customary to sow or plant in rows from three to four feet asunder; a method which, in every way, is found to be most convenient. Except where the garden is new, when, of course, it is advantageous to procure a supply of ready grown plants, it is thought preferable to keep up the stock of asparagus by sowing.

The sowing is made in March, in slight drills; and, as a portion of the seed often fails to germinate, it is a good precaution to employ about double the quantity of seed that may be ultimately necessary. If the plants come up too thickly, they may be thinned out towards the end of the first summer, to the distance of about six inches in the rows. The ground is hoed, and kept clear of weeds. It is a common practice to take slight crops of onions, lettuce, cauliflower, or turnip, between the lines of asparagus during the first, and, if the rows be wide, also in the second year. The young heads or stalks, the part used, should not be cut before the third spring, and they arŭ not in perfection till the fourth or fifth.

The asparagus quarter can scarcely be over manured. The proper time to perform this operation is in the end of autumn, when the annual flower-stalks are removed, preparatory for winter. When beds are employed, their surface should be stirred with a fork; a layer of well-rotted hot-bed dung is then laid on, and the whole covered with a sprinkling of earth from the alleys. If the plants are grown in rows, the manure is simply dug in by means oř a three-pronged fork, care being taken not to injure the roots. This operation is repeated annually. No other culture is required; but it is necessary to observe a due moderation in reaping the crop, as the shoots, when much cut, become progressively smaller and less valuable. Hence a considerable quantity of ground is required for the culti-vation[7:11:673] of this vegetable, and it is a general rule never to gather it after pease have come into season.

Asparagus readily admits of being forced. The most common method is to prepare, early in the year, a moderate hot-bed of stable litter, and to cover it with a common frame. After the heat of fermentation has somewhat subsided, the surface of the bed is lined with turf, to prevent the escape of vapour; a layer of light earth or exhausted tan-bark is put over the turf, and in this the roots of plants five or six years old are closely placed. The crowns of the roots are then covered with two or three inches of soil. A common three-light frame may hold 500 or 600 plants, and will afford a supply for several weeks. After planting, linings are applied when necessary, and air is occasionally admitted. Care must be taken not to scorch the roots. Where there are pits for the culture of late melons or succession pine plants, such as the Alderston pit, or the succession pit with the hot-water circulation, they may advantageously be applied to this purpose.

It has been recommended (Lond. Hortic. Traits, vol.'v.) to force asparagus on the ground on which it grows. Perhaps the best method is that suggested by Mr Spiers in vol. iv. of the Gardener’s Magazine. The seed is sown in beds four feet eight inches w ide, and there are four rows of plants, eleven inches asunder in the bed. The beds are lined by a pigeon-hole brickwork two feet deep, an operation which we presume need not be performed till immediately before forcing, that is, when tłie plants are at least four years old. In October, when the stalks are cleared away, the surface is covered with littery straw. When forcing is commenced, the brick-lined trenches are filled with hot stable-dung, well beaten, to about eighteen inches above the surface of the ground. The bed is also covered with prepared dung. In about twelve days, when the buds have begun to appear, the latter covering is removed, glazed frames are placed upon the brick-work, a little fine soil is sifted over the plants, the linings in the trenches are raised higher, and the whole treated like a common hot-bed. In this way, we are informed, excellent supplies may be obtained, and the plants may be forced every year.

Before leaving this subject, it may be mentioned, that about Bath, the young flow er-spikes of Ornithogalum py-renaicum, found native in that neighbourhood, are used like asparagus, under the name of Prussian grass. Sea-kale ( Crambe maritima) is a perennial plant, growing spontaneously on the shores of the southern parts of the island. The roots are spreading, the leaves waved, glaucous, and covered with a fine mealy bloom, and the stalks rise to about two feet high, bearing white flowers which smell of honey, followed by seed-pods, each containing a single seed.

The country people in the west of England have long been accustomed to use in spring the young shoots, which, by passing through the sand and gravel on which they grow, are somewhat blanched and rendered tender. In conformity with this practice, the cultivation formerly recommended consisted merely in covering the beds on the approach of spring with a little dry earth or sand, in order to the blanching or intenerating of the shoots. These were cut as they appeared in March and April. Now, however, the blanching is not only much more completely effected, but simple means have been devised for supplying the table for half the year, including all the winter months. It has, within these few years, become a vegetable of common ocr currence in the markets both of London and Edinburgh.

Sea-kale seems partial to a light dry soil. If manure be added, it should consist of sea-weed or leaves of trees. The plants may be propagated by offsets, or small pieces of the roots having buds or eyes attached to them; but the most eligible method is by seed. We have seen very tolerable blanched stalks produced by plants only nine months old from the seed, and after two summers, seedling plants will have acquired sufficient strength for general cropping. The sowing is made in March, the seeds being deposited in patches of three or four together, the patches being arranged in lines three feet apart, and two feet in the line. In order to secure a succession, and to obviate the bad effects of forcing, it is proper to sow a few lines of sea-kale every year.

Various modes of blanching the shoots have been resorted to. In the first volume of the Memoirs of the Caledonian Horticultural Society, Sir George Mackenzie describes a very convenient method. The sea-kale bed is merely covered, early in spring, with clean and dry oatstraw, which is removed as often as it becomes dry and musty. The shoots rise through the straw, and are at the same time pretty well blanched. Others employ dried tree-leaves for this purpose. Another method practised by many gardeners consists in placing over each plant a flower-pot of the largest size inverted; but convenient blanching-pots, with moveable lids, have been constructed for the express purpose. It may be proper to provide from thirty to sixty such pots; and it may be expected that each pot will, on an average, furnish a dish and a half of shoots during the season.

With the aid of these pots, sea-kale is forced in the open border in the way now to be described. In the latter end of autumn a bed of vigorous sea-kale plants is dressed, that is, the stalks are cut over, and the decayed leaves are removed. The ground is, at the same time, loosened about the eyes, and a thin stratum of gravel or sifted coal-ashes is laid on the surface to keep dowm earth-worms. A pot with a moveable cover is placed over each plant or each patch of plants. Stable-litter is then closely packed all round the pots, and raised up to about a foot above them; the whole thus assuming the form and appearance of a large hot-bed. When fermentation commences, a thermometer should be occasionally introduced into a few of the pots, to ascertain that the temperature within does not exceed 60° Fahrenheit, and the depth of the litter is to be regulated accordingly. The vegetation of the included plants is speedily promoted; so that, in the space of a month or six weeks, the shoots will be ready for cutting, which, being thus excluded from the light, are most effectually blanched, and are exceedingly tender and crisp. By means of the moveable lids, the plants are examined and the shoots gathered without materially disturbing the litter. By commencing at various times, a supply for the table can be readily furnished from the middle of November till the middle of May.

The Artichoke (Cynara Scolymus) is a perennial plant, a native of the south of Europe, and is a well known inhabitant of our gardens. It resembles a thistle on a large scale. In France, the entire head or whole leaves of the involucre of the artichoke are eaten, when in a young and tender state, en poivrade, or with pepper, salt, and vinegar; but in this country the only parts used are the base of the leaves of the involucre, and the immature floral receptacle, or phoranthium, commonly called the bottom, freed from the bristly seed-down which has been called the choke. The varieties are the conical or French, the globe or red artichoke, and the dwarf globe. Of these the first is the highest flavoured, the second is well adapted for a general crop, and the third is prolific, and occupies little room.

The artichoke loves a deep cool dry soil. It is propagated by parting the roots in April, the sets being planted in rows four or five feet asunder, and two feet apart in the rows. The young plants generally afford a crop which succeeds that of old plants; and for this reason a new plantation[7:11:674] is made in some gardens every year. During summer the plants are kept clear of weeds, but require little other attention. In November the decayed stems and leaves are removed, and the ground cleared. In some gardens the earth is ridged slightly around the roots, in order to defend the stools from the frost. This, however, is done more effectually by a litter of straw, or of the refuse of the stable-yard, of the depth of a foot, drawn close round the base of the leaves. In April this litter is taken away, the stocks are examined, and two or three only of the strongest shoots are permitted to remain. The offsets, which are carefully removed, afford materials for a young plantation. The ground between the rows is digged over. At this time manure may be applied; well-rotted hot-bed dung, and above all sea-weed, being considered preferable.

The Cλrdoon (Cynara Cardunculus) is a perennial plant, a native of the south of France and Spain. It has a close resemblance to the artichoke, but surpasses it in size. The edible part, or chard, as it is called, is composed of the blanched and crisp stalks of the inner leaves. Besides the common sort there is a prickly variety, known in France by the name of the Cardoon of Tours. The common artichoke is also used for the production of chard. Cardoons are found to prosper on light deep soil. The seed is sown annually about the middle of May, in shallow trenches, like those for celery, and the plants are thinned out to ten or twelve inches from each other in the lines. In dry weather water is copiously supplied, not only to increase the succulence of the leaves, but to prevent the formation of flower-stalks, which render the plant useless. In autumn the leaves are applied close to each other, and wrapped round with bands of hay or straw, the points of the leaves only being left free. Earth is then drawn up around the leaf-stems to the height of fifteen or eighteen inches. Sometimes cardoons are blanched by a more thorough earthing up, in the manner of celery, but in this case the operation must be carried on from the end of summer. During severe frost the tops of the leaves should be defended with straw or litter.

The Rampion (Campanula Rapunculus) is an English native biennial, the roots of which, under the name of ramps, are used as a salad, or boiled like asparagus. It is but little cultivated in this country. The seed is sown broadcast, about the beginning of June, in a cool situation, and the young plants arc merely to be thinned and kept clear of weeds. On the approach of frost, the roots, which somewhat resemble small radishes, are stored in sand, and will keep fresh and firm till spring.

Salads, &c. Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) is a hardy annual, but"of what country it is a native is unknown. Some suppose it to be a seminal variety of the native L. virosa, a poisonous plant, “which,” says Professor Lindley, “would not be more remarkable than the fact, that the indigenous celery is one of our strongest poisons.” Besides its well known uses, it may be mentioned that the late Dr Duncan senior, of Edinburgh, prepared from its milky juice, a medicine denominated Lactucarium, similar in its action to opium, but capable of being administered in cases where that powerful drug is inadmissible. There are two principal varieties, the Cos or upright, and the Cabbage-lettuce. The subvarieties are numerous; we may mention the following:

Early Forcing Cos, White Cabbage,

Green Cos, Brown Dutch Cabbage,

White Cos, Imperial Cabbage,

Cilicia, Grand Admiral.

By proper care fresh lettuce may be had throughout the whole year. The first sowing is made in January, in some sheltered situation, or under hand-glasses, or in tebruary on a gentle hot-bed. The seedlings are transplanted as soon as the weather will permit. A second sowing may be made in the beginning of March, and another in April. Besides the ordinary compartments, the seedlings may be planted on celery ridges, between rows of slight crops of other vegetables, and, in short, in any odd corner which may occur. To obtain a winter supply, a sowing is made in August or September, and the plants are pricked out in October, along the bottom of walls, or under glazed frames.

Endive ( Cichorium Endivia) is an annual plant, a native of China, from which it was introduced in 1548. It is the lettuce of winter, the blanched hearts being used for salads and in soups. The varieties are, the Broad-leaved Batavian, the Green Curled-leaved, and the White Curledleaved. A sowing may be made in the beginning of June, and another in July, the seeds being scattered very sparsely, that the plants may not come up in clusters. The seedlings are transplanted into a rich soil, and are arranged in rows twelve or fifteen inches asunder, and at the distance of ten inches in the row. Sometimes they are planted in drills to facilitate the operation of blanching. The later crop should be placed in a sheltered situation, where it may be able to withstand the winter. When the plants have reached their‘maturity, the leaves are gathered up, and tied together an inch or two below the tips, and afterwards about the middle of the plant. In two or three weeks they are found sufficiently blanched for use. In winter it is necessary to draw the earth quite up about the leaves. At that season, too, the plants may be inserted into a sloping bank of earth, or blanched in boxes in the mushroom-house, or in a cellar.

Succory (Cichorium Intybus) is an indigenous plant, the cultivation of which may be said to have been introduced by the foreign refugees during the French revolutionary war. By the French it is much esteemed as a winter salad, and, when blanched, is known by the name of Barbe du Capucin. When intended for winter use, the seed is sown in May or June, commonly in drills, and the plants are thinned out to four inches apart. If the first set of leaves grow very strong, owing to wet weather, they are cut off perhaps in the middle of August, about an inch from the ground, so as to promote the production of new leaves, and cheek the formation of flower-stems. About the beginning of October the plants are raised from the border; all the large leaves are cut off; the roots are also shortened. They are then planted pretty closely together in boxes filled with rich light mould, and watered when needful. When frost comes on, the boxes are protected by any kind of haulm. As the salad is wanted, they are removed into some place having a moderately increased temperature, but with little light, such as a mushroomhouse or cellar off the kitchen. Each box affords two crops of blanched leaves, and these are reckoned fit for cutting when about six inches long. The roots of this plant, it may be added, have been employed as a substitute for coffee-beans, and in Flanders, and some parts of France, a portion of them is very often mixed with coffee.

Parsley (Apium Petroselinum) is a biennial plant, of well-known use in cookery. It is said to be a native of Sardinia, but it now grows spontaneously in various parts of Britain. The varieties are the Common, the Curledleaved, and the Hamburg, the last of which is cultivated for the sake of its tuberous roots. Parsley loves a light rich soil. It is sown in drills about the beginning of March, and the seed lies some weeks in the ground before the plants appear-As they grow up they are thinned out, and they are defended by branches or other coverings from hard [7:11:675] weather in winter. The Hamburg variety being cultivated for its roots, is sown about the same time in a well trenched soil, in drills a foot apart, and it is thinned to about nine inches in the rows. In the beginning of November the roots are taken up and stored in sand.

Celery (Apium graveolens) is a native biennial, an inhabitant of the sides of ditches near the sea. In its wild state it is of an acrid nature, and of a coarse, rank flavour; but by cultivation it is improved into one of the most agreeable salads. There are two principal varieties; celery properly so called, with upright stalks and fibrous or slightly tuberous roots; and celeriac with large turnip-shaped roots. Of the former, the principal subvarieties are, the Italian, the Red Solid, and the White Solid, of which the second and third are the best.

Celery is usually sown at three different times: on a hotbed in the beginning of March, and in the open ground in March, and again in April. The seedlings, when about two inches high, are pricked into rich soil, in which they are allowed to stand till they are four or five inches high. The first crop is defended by frames or hand-glasses, and is planted wide to admit of being lifted with balls of earth adhering to the roots. Towards the end of May trenches for blanching the celery are prepared. These trenches are three and a half or four feet apart, fifteen inches wide at the bottom, and about a foot below the natural level of the surface. The soil at the bottom of the trench is carefully digged and manured, and a single row of plants is placed in each trench. Sometimes where a large supply is required, the trenches are made six feet wide, and after a similar preparation, rows fifteen or eighteen inches apart are planted across the trenches. As the plants advance in growth, earth is laid up about the stalks of the leaves, an operation which is repeated at the end of every ten or fifteen days, care being taken not to choke the plants. As the celery approaches maturity, scarcely any thing but the tips of the leaves appear above the ridges, and, when lifted, the stalks are found to be completely blanched. Successional crops should then be planted out. Celery loves a rich light soil and an abundance of moisture. '

Celeriac, or turnip-rooted celery, is treated at first like the early crop of common celery. In the beginning or middle of June it is planted out in a flat bed, in drills fifteen inches apart. A single earthing afterwards suffices. Its large round roots are used in soups, and are much relished by some. It is, however, more attended to in France and the Low Countries than in Britain.

Garden Cress (Lepidium sativum), and White Mustard (Sinapis alba), are generally associated in their use as salads, and in their culture in the garden. They are annua! plants, and are eaten only when very young. In winter they may be raised on a slight hot-bed, in spring under hand-glasses, or in drills near a south wall, and in summer, when they should be sown once a fortnight, in drills, in any cool shady situation. Table mustard, which is made from Sinapis nigra L., belongs rather to the department of agriculture. Durham mustard, which is distinguished for its poignancy, though not remarkable for fine colour, is said to be made principally from the seeds of the common yellow field mustard or charlock, Sinapis arvensis L.

Of Rhubarb (Rheum) several species and many varieties are cultivated for the purpose of supplying materials for tarts, the foot-stalks of the leaves being well adapted for that purpose, and coming into use at a most convenient season. R. rhaponticum and palmatum were the species first employed, and are still occasionally used; but the sorts now preferred are seminal varieties, mostly allied to R. hy- bridum and R. undulatum.. The following are the most worthy of notice:

Wilmot’s, Elford,

Gigantic, Buck’s.

Of these, the talented editor of the Horticultural Register decidedly prefers the first two, the former as being excellently suited for forcing, the latter as growing to a great size, without rankness. They may be multiplied by dividing the roots, and this is the common practice; but they thrive much better when grown from seed. Mr Paxton recommends sowing on a slight hot-bed in spring, and transplanting out in rows in the month of May. No stalks are gathered from them for the first two years, but in the third season they are fit for use. A portion of the crop is allowed to come on under the general influence of the season; but much also is forced, which may be done in a variety of ways. Some treat it like sea-kale, covering the root allowed to remain in the ground with a large pot or box, and wrapping it round with litter. Others take up the roots in autumn, pot them, and force them in vineries or hot-beds. Perhaps the best method is to procure long narrow boxes of a moderate depth, and to place them, packed full of roots, in a mushroom-house or cellar, where there is a considerable temperature. The rhubarb soon throws up its stalks, and these being partially etiolated, possess a delicacy and flavour superior to those grown in the open air. It is easy, by varying the time of subjecting the boxes to the increased temperature, to keep up a succession of rhubarb stalks, from the period at which kitchen apples become scarce or begin to lose their flavour, till green gooseberries come into season.

The following annual plants are occasionally used in cookery, or as salads: Chervil, Scandix cerefolia; Purslane, Portulaca oleracea; Lamb s-Lettuce, Fedia olitoria; Indian Cress, Tropaeolum majus; Marigold, Calendula officinalis; Borage, Borago officinalis. These may be sown in spring, or in the beginning of summer, in any fresh light sods. In general a small quantity will suffice.

The Common Sorrel, Rumex acetosa; and the French Sorrel, Rumex scutatus; and the Horse-radish, Cochlearia Armoracia, are perennials, and are increased by parting their roots. They thrive in any cool shady situation.

The Capsicum or Chili, Capsicum annuum, and the Love-Apple, Solanum Lycopersicum, are tender annuals from tropical climates. Both are sown in hot-beds in spring, and after being transplanted and nursed in separate pots, are planted out, the former in a warm border, and the latter against a wall. In Scotland the Capsicum will scarcely mature its fruit without the aid of glass.

Bill, Anethum graveolens, and Angelica, Angelica archangelica, are umbelliferous biennials, which have been for a long period, though not extensively, cultivated in our gardens. They are easily raised from seed. With these may be associated the beautiful perennial, Fennel, Anethum Foeniculum, used in salads and sauces. It may be propagated either by parting the roots, or by seeds, which should be sown in autumn, soon after they are ripe.

In every garden there is a small department set apart for the culture of Sweet Herbs and Medicinal Plants. We need not here enter into details respecting their uses or culture, but shall merely give classified lists.

Shrubby Plants increased by parting the roots, or by cuttings:— Thyme, Thymus vulgaris; Sage, Salvia officinalis; Winter Savory, Satureja montana; Rosemary, Rosmarinus officinalis; Lavender, Lavandula Spica; Hyssop, Hyssopus officinalis.; and Rue, Ruta graveolens.

Perennial Herbaceous Plants, increased by parting the roots :— Spearmint, Mentha viridis; Peppermint, Μ, pipe-rita[7:11:676]; Pennyroyal, Μ. pulegium; Balm, Melissa officinalis; Tarragon, Artemisia Dracunculus; Tansy, Tanacetum vulgare; Costmary, Balsamita vulgaris; Chamomile, Anthémis nobilis.

Biennial or Annual Plants, increased by sowing the seeds:— Clary, Salvia Sclarea; Coriander, Coriandrum sativum; Càraway, Carum Carui; Sweet Marjoram, Origanum mājorana; Summer Savory, Satureja hortensis; Sweet Basil, Ocimum basilicum; and Bush Basil, 0. minimum. These last, the basils, which are natives of the East, and in much request for their delicate flavour, are raised on hot-beds in spring, and transplanted with balls, into some warm situation. In Scotland, they are mostly treated as tender annuals, and are grown, under glazed frames, in flowerpots.

There are besides a few others, which, in each of the classes, more properly belong to the Dietetics, and the Materia Medica. The young green leaves of Prunus Laurocerasus (under the name of laureD, may properly enough be employed in garnishing; but they ought never to be used, as they too often are, for giving a nutty flavour, or for greening other articles; hydrocyanic acid being given out, and proving injurious, even in small quantities.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

The cultivation of flowers, if not the most useful, is at least one of the most pleasing occupations of the horticulturist, and has generally shared largely in his attention. It is probable, that at first, flowers, as objects of curiosity, were confined to a few patches or borders in the garden, as is still the case in many old places; but in the progress of the art, and the diffusion of taste, separate departments were allotted to them under the name of Flower Gardens. After some general remarks on style and situation, we shall treat of the component parts of flower gardens, their various decorations, and of floriculture.

The designing of flower gardens unquestionably belongs to the fine arts, involving in it, the exercise of invention, taste, and foresight. Its principles are more vague and evanescent than those of any of the sister arts. The hand of the designer is not here guided by the imitation of Nature, for his work is wholly artificial in its arrangements and appliances; neither does utility come in, as in architecture, to supply a form and frame-work, which it is. the artist’s part to adorn. “As flower gardens,” says Mr Loudon, the best authority on this topic, “are objects of pleasure, the principle which must serve as a guide in laying them out, must be taste. Now, in flower-gardens, as in' other objects, there are different kinds of tastes; these embodied are called styles or characters; and the great art of the designer is, having fixed on a style, to follow it out unmixed with other styles, or with any deviation which would interfere with the kind of taste or impression which that style is calculated to produce. Style, therefore, is the leading principle in laying out flower gardens, as utility is in laying out the culinary garden. As objects of fancy and taste, the styles of flower gardens are various. The modern style is a collection of irregular groups and masses, placed about the house as a medium, uniting it with the open lawn. The ancient geometric style, in place of irregular groups, employed symmetrical forms; in France, adding statues and fountains; in Holland, cut trees and grassy slopes; and in Italy, stone walls, walled terraces, and flights of steps. In some situations these characteristics of parterres may, with propriety, be added to, or used instead of the modern sort, especially in flat situations; such as are inclosed by high walls; in towns, or where the principal building or object is in a style of architecture which will not render these appendages incongruous. There are other characters of gardens, such as the Chinese, which are not widely different from the modern; the Indian, which consists chiefly of walks under shade, in squares of grass; the Turkish, which abounds in shady retreats, boudoirs of roses and aromatic herbs; and the Spanish, which is distinguished by trellis work and fountains; but these gardens are not generally adapted to this climate, though, from contemplating and selecting what is beautiful or suitable in each, a style of decoration for the immediate vicinity of mansions, might be composed preferable to any thing now in use.” It may, however, be remarked, that the flower garden properly so called, has generally been too much governed by the laws of landscape gardening, and these often ill-understood, and misapplied. In the days of “clipped hedges and pleached alleys/’ the parterres and flower-beds were of a description the most grotesque and intricate imaginable. At a subsequent period, when the natural and die picturesque became the objects of imitation in the park, there appeared the most extravagant attempts at wildness in the garden. The result has been unfortunate. It is not meant that when there are merely a few patches of flowers by way of foreground to the lawn, they should not be subordinated to the principles which regulate the more distant and bolder scenery; but wherever there is a flower garden of considerable magnitude, and in a separate situation, it should be constructed on principles of its own. In such a spot, the great object must be to exhibit to advantage the graceful forms and glorious hues of flowering plants and shrubs; and it is but seldom that mere elegancies in the forms of compartments, and other trickeries of human invention, can bear any comparison with these natural beauties. To express the peculiar nature of garden scenery, as distinct from the picturesque in landscape, Mr Loudon has invented the term gardenesque ; and, whatever may be thought of the term itself, it is very desirable that the distinction should be preserved.

Two varieties of flower gardens have chiefly prevailed in Britain; one, in which the ground is turf, and the pattern, so to speak, is composed of a variety of figures cut out of the turf, and planted with flowers and shrubs; and another, when the flower-beds a l re separated by gravel walks, without being interspersed with grass at all. The choice of one or other of these varieties ought greatly to depend upon the situation. When the flower garden is to be seen from the windows, or any other elevated point of view, from which the whole or the greater part of the design may be perceived at once, perhaps the former should be preferred. Where the surface is irregular, and the situation more remote, and especially where the beauty of flowers is the chief object of contemplation, the choice should probably fall on the latter. This variety, too, seems preferable, on the principle of contrast, where there are large lawns in the outer grounds, in order that kept (or smoothly mown) grass may not be found every where.

Respecting the situation of the flower garden, no very precise directions can be given, as it must be influenced by the nature of the lawns, and of the site of the mansion to which it is attached. Generally speaking, it should not be at any great distance from the house; and in places where there is no distant view of importance, it may be constructed under the windows. In retired scenes, it is delightful to step out of the drawing-room into compartments of flowers, in the vicinity of a greenhouse or conservatory. On the other hand, when the park is spacious, and the prospects extensive and picturesque, it is perhaps better that the flower garden should be at some distance, say not more than a quarter of a mile, and out of sight of the house, but with an easy access in any sort of weather; an arrangement which would give an agreeable termination to a short walk, a desirable matter in most cases, for it has been often remarked that many parts of [7:11:677]extensive grounds remain unvisited, because they afford no remarkable object to attract the attention.

The particular form of a flower garden is equally beyond the inculcation of specific rules. Indeed, it may be of any shape, and, except where the dimensions are extremely limited, the boundaries should not be continuously visible. The taste of the proprietor or designer, and the capabilities of the situation, must determine not only the external configuration, but also the arrangement of the interior parts. By judicious management, it may be made to pass through shrubbery, gradually assuming a more woodland character, and groups of trees, into the park on the one hand, and into the kitchen garden or orchard on the other. In most cases, even when it is in the vicinity of the mansion-house, the flower garden should be encircled with some sort of fence, in order to convey the idea of protection, as well as to furnish security to the vegetable inmates of the parterres, it being impossible to carry on floriculture to any great extent in open places which are accessible to hares and rabbits. In detached localities, the fences may be made sufficiently strong to preclude the intrusion of every species of vagrant; and these it is not difficult to mask with shrubs and trees. A north wall of moderate extent and moderate elevation, is often desirable, as affording space for ornamental climbers, and half-acclimatized exotics, and as forming a point d’appui for the conservatory and other botanical structures, Such a wall may be surmounted with urns and other architectural ornaments, and screened at some little distance behind by trees. The other fences may be of wire-work, generally called invisible, or of wooden rails, or of holly hedges with rails.

Formerly the flower-beds were made either circular, straight, or in curves, and were turned into knots, scrolls, volutes, and other compartments; and this taste prevailed, perhaps, in some measure from a desire on the part of the contrivers, to compensate by their ingenuity for the paucity of the ornamental plants which they then cultivated. Now that the riches of Flora have poured into our gardens, a simpler taste has obtained. Of the figures in fashion at present in the lawn-flower-garden, perhaps the kidneyshape and its varieties occur too frequently. It is needless as well as impossible to specify the numerous configurations of flower-plots, for they abound in kaleidoscopical variety. Good taste will suggest that those only should be associated which harmonize well together; and it is better to incur the hazard of an apparent monotony, than to excite wonder by incongruous combination. When the figures are separated by turf, it is necessary that the little lawns or glades should have a certain degree of breadth, as nothing has a worse effect than over-crowding. A multitude of little figures should also be avoided, as they produce what Mr Gilpin calls spottiness, and which, as he has correctly pointed out, is a grievous deformity. In this sort of flower garden, it is desirable that a gravel walk should skirt along at least one side of the principal figures; in our humid climate, the grass would otherwise render them inaccessible with comfort during a great part of the year. In those gardens in which turf is wholly or partly excluded, the compartments should be of a larger and more massive character. Narrow borders, bounded by parallel straight lines and concentric curves, should be avoided. The centres of the figures should be filled with tall-growing shrubs, and even with an occasional low evergreen tree, such as a yew or a holly. The walks, arranged in long concave curves, may communicate here and there with one another. A dial, a few seats and arbours, with an urn or two or a vase, may be introduced with good effect. It is to be regretted that few good specimens of this species of flower garden have hitherto been executed in Britain.

Amongst the accompaniments of the flower garden may be mentioned the Rock-work. This consists of variously grouped masses of large stones, generallysuch as are remarkable for being figured by water-wearing, or for containing petrifactions or impressions; and into the cavities between the stones, filled with earth, alpine or trailing plants are inserted. In proper situations, a small piece of water may be introduced, for the culture of aquatic plants. One of the walks is sometimes arched over with wire-work, and covered with ornamental climbing shrubs, forming a delightful promenade in the glowing days of summer. A separate compartment, generally of a regular figure, is set apart for roses, under the name of the Rosary. A moist or rather a shady border, with bog earth, is devoted to that class of shrubs, commonly, but not very accurately, designated “American plants.” In extensive places, a separate “American Garden” is often formed, in a locality which, if not damp, has at least the command of water, occupying generally some warm corner of the park.

Some writers have advocated the formation of Winter and Spring Gardens in separate localities; but we are not aware that their ideas have ever been embodied to any great extent. It is proposed that in the winter garden should be assembled all the most beautiful evergreen shrubs and plants, together with the few flowers that bloom during the winter months. The situation, it is recommended, should be well sheltered, and open only to the warm rays of the sun, which are peculiarly grateful in our cold winter seasons. However attractive this scheme may be in theory, it seems doubtful whether it would be very successful in execution. Masses of evergreens have a sombre and monotonous effect, even in winter, unless occasionally broken and varied by deciduous trees. The contrast of their leafless neighbours relieves the intenseness of their gloom, and sets off their brilliancy. Though a winter garden, the very name of which is chilling, is perhaps not very desirable by itself, the object to be attained in it should be kept in view in the formation of the park or flower garden. We can easily suppose a particular section of the latter to contain a predominance of evergreens, and to possess the principal characters of a Winter Garden, without the formality of its name and purpose. In the immense variety of situations, it is not difficult to imagine a sloping bank, for instance, facing the sun, with a long walk skirting its base, the lower side of which might be adorned with a border or narrow parterre planted with arbutus and periwinkle, whilst the slope is covered with the higher evergreens, and the summit of the acclivity is crowned with groups of deciduous trees, interrupted by a few straggling firs, through which the wind, unfelt below, might sigh its melancholy music. Again, the Spring Garden, which need not be of very great extent, may take refuge in the vicinity of the greenhouse or conservatory, with which it is naturally allied.

Soil. — A variety of soils is required in the flower garden, to suit the very different kinds of plants that fall to be cultivated. To florists’ flowers particular compounds are assigned, and these shall be mentioned when treating of the flowers themselves. American plants require a peaty earth, varying from boggy peat to almost pure sand. Alluvial peat, that is, boggy earth which has been washed away and incorporated with white sand, is to be preferred: peat, cut from its natural bed and only partially decomposed, is of no value at all, or is positively prejudicial to plants. In collecting soil from the surface of a muir, it is proper to take no more than the upper turf or sod, with the peat adhering to it, and only from the driest parts of the muir, where, besides the common heath, fescue-grasses occur. Where this cannot be procured, a good substitute is found in vegetable mould, that is, decayed leaves swept from lawns or woods, and allowed to lie in heaps for a few years. For the general purposes of the flower garden, a light loamy soil is advantageous; and where the natural covering is thin, or requires making up, recourse should be had to the [7:11:678]surface-earth of old pastures, which, especially when incumbent on trap-rocks, is found to be excellent. It is expedient to have a large mass of this material in the compost yard. The turf, and the surface-soil adhering to it, should be laid up in a rough state, in which way it is continually ameliorating by the decomposition of the vegetable matters, and the action of the air.

Garden Walks. — During the prevalence of the Dutch taste, grass-walks were common in our gardens; but, owing to their frequent humidity in our climate, they have in a great measure disappeared. Their disuse is perhaps to be regretted, as in some situations, particularly behind lengthened screens of trees, or in gardens from which grass has been in a great measure excluded, an example or two of them would be agreeable. It is justly observed by Sir William Temple, that “ two things peculiar to us, and which contribute much to the beauty and elegance of our gardens, are the gravel of our walks, and the fineness and almost perpetual greenness of our turf and therefore no trouble should be spared in securing excellence in these respects. In old times grass walks were formed with much care. After the space which they were to occupy had been digged and levelled that it might subside equally, a thin layer of sand or poor earth was laid upon the snrŕàce, and over this a similar layer of good soil. This arrangement was to prevent excessive luxuriance in the grass. In selecting the seed, all annual, wiry, and coarse sorts of grass should be avoided. Perhaps a mixture of Roughish Meadow-grass (Poa trivialis), Sheep’s Fescue-grass (Festuca duriuscula and Festuca ovina), and Crested Dogstail grass (Cynosurus cristatus), is about the best that could be selected. Poa nemoralis is well adapted for shaded situations.

Gravel-walks, in this department, are formed precisely in the same manner as those in the kitchen garden. It may, however, be remarked, that a multitude of gravelwalks, particularly when narrow, have a puny effect. All the principal lines should be broad enough to allow at least three persons to walk abreast; the others may be narrower. Much of the neatness of walks depends upon the material of which they are made. Gravel from an inland pit is to be preferred; though occasionally very excellent varieties are found upon the sea-coast. The gravel of Kensington and Blackheath has attained considerable celebrity; and.is frequently employed in remote parts of the kingdom, the expense being lessened by its being conveyed to different sea-ports as ballast for ships. In summer a gravel-walk requires hoeing and raking from time to time, to clear it from weeds and tufts of grass. After this operation, or even after a simple sweeping, it is rolled down with a handroller; and this is repeated as often as the surface is ruffled. Nothing contributes more than frequent rolling to the elegance and convenience of garden walks.

Edgings. — Walks are generally separated from the borders and parterres by a variety of plants planted closely in line. By far the best edging is afforded by the Dwarf Dutch Box (Buxus sempervirens var). It is extremely neat, and, when annually clipped, will remain in good order for many years. It may be planted at any season, except when in full growth or in mid-winter. Excellent edgings are also formed by Sea Pink (Statice armeria) and Double Daisy (Bellis perennis). Dwarf Gentian (Gentiana acaulis) and London Pride (Saxifraga umbrosa) are also sometimes used. Indeed, any low-growing herbaceous plant, susceptible of minute division, is fitted for an edging. Among the great variety occasionally employed for this purpose may be mentioned, the Pansy (Viola tricoor), the Dwarf Bell-flower (Campanula pumila), the Cowslip, Polyanthus, Auricula, Hepatica, Veronica fruticulosa, and Erica carnea. Edgings may also be formed of spars of wood, narrow pieces of sandstone flag, or even of slight bars of cast iron. In shrubberies and large flower-plots, verges of grass-turf, about a foot in breadth, make a very handsome border to walks. These should not be allowed to rise high above the gravel: an inch and a half may be assigned as the limit they should not exceed. The grass is kept short by repeated mowings, and the edges arc defined by clipping with shears, or cutting with a paring iron.

Shrubs. — Much of the beauty of the pleasure garden depends upon the proper selection and disposition of ornamental trees and shrubs; and it is to be regretted that this department of the art has often been greatly neglected. In many gardens we still find only a few evergreens, and a parcel of rugged deciduous species, introduced probably before the age of Miller. No wonder is it, therefore, that we sometimes hear of the insipid scenes of the shrubbery. Nevertheless, shrubs are highly elegant in themselves, and they afford a most efficient means of diversifying garden scenery. Of the many beautiful species now to be had in Britain, and affording the materials of exquisite decoration, we can mention only a few. For extensive lists and for much general information, we may once more refer to the work of Mr Loudon.

Of Evergreens, besides the Common Laurel (Prunus Laurocerasus) and the Portugal Laurel (P. Lusitanica), we may notice the American Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis), as adapted to large masses of shrubs; and the Chinese Arborvitae (T. orientalis), whose size and mode of growth fit it for smaller compartments. The different varieties of Rhamnus Alaternus, and the species of Phillyrea and Juniperus, have long and deservedly been favourite evergreens. The Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilis), in favourable situations, rises into a handsome shrub or low tree, and may convey to the student of the classics an idea of the Delphic laurel. The Strawberry tree (Arbutus Unedo), a native of Ireland as well as of the south of Europe, will always find a place as one of the most elegant of plants, equally beautiful as regards foliage, flower, and fruit: nor should its countryman, the Irish Yew, ascending like the pillared cypress, be forgotten. The Cypress itself, though rather a denizen of the park, may be sparingly introduced. The Laurustinus (Viburnum Tinus), with blossoms approaching the snow in whiteness, enlivens the winter season, when nothing else is in flower in the shrubbery. The Swedish and Irish Junipers deserve a place. Different species of Daphne will not be forgotten; it may be sufficient to enumerate pontica, collina, Cneorum, and hybrida. As extremely low evergreens, we may mention Gualtheria procumbens and Shallon, Polygala Chamaebnxus, and Astragalus Tragacantha; but these would probably be better placed among what are popularly called American plants. Of the more tender evergreens, we should name the Andrachne (Arbutus Andrachne), a beautiful shrub, but liable to be injured by severe frosts. The Broad-leaved Myrtle (Myrtus Romana), in warm places, and with the aid of a covering in the depth of winter, may be made to clothe the walls with its brilliant verdure for eight months in the year, and with its white flowers for some weeks in the end of summer. Aucuba Japonica, and Buxus Balearicus, are handsome shrubs, of a somewhat stronger constitution: the former is very ornamental in dull shady places, where no other shrub will grow. The beautiful tribes of Cistus and Helianthe-mum, some of which are quite hardy, are admirable for adorning sloping banks.

Amongst the shrubs that require a peaty soil, or at leasts damp and shady situation, the splendid genus Rhododendron holds the principal place. Of the larger species may be mentioned R. Ponticum, Catawbiense, and maximum, with their many beautiful varieties. In early spring, R. Däuricum expands its blossoms among the first of flowering shrubs. Nor should we overlook R. punctatum, hirsutum, ferrugineum, and Chamaecistus, of humbler growth, [7:11:679] but not inferior in beauty. With these the closely cognate genus of Azalea, with its multitudinous species and varieties, disputes the palm of elegance. The pale and drooping Andromedas are scarcely of inferior interest. The hardy Heaths, particularly Erica carnca, tetralix, and stricta, Menziesia polifolia and coerulca, and the Canadian Rho-dora, combine to bring up the rear of this department of Flora’s train. .

The deciduous flowering shrubs are too much neglected in many gardens. They are seldom well managed, either in point of arrangement or in the evolution, by pruning, of picturesque effect. Very often they are huddled together promiscuously, and grow up into the shape of huge sheaves of rushes. With judicious management, there is not a finer object in the vegetable kingdom than the common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris), or the hybrid Varin (S. Rathoma-gensis). Even the old Guelder-Rose (Viburnum Opulus) is worthy of the poet’s eulogy; the “scentless rose,” which he describes as “tall,”

“And throwing up into the darkest gloom, Of neighbouring cypress, or more sable yew, H er silver globes, light as the foamy surf That the wind severs from the broken wave.”

It would lead us into disproportioned detail to specify a tithe of those shewy shrubs which should be dear to every floriculturist. Suffice it to name Ribes sanguineum, Daphne mezereum, Spartium of many species, Cytisus, Amygdalus, and Pyrus. The Ribes speciosum, or Fuchsia-flowered gooseberry, seems to require the protection of a wall, but deserves it. The fine suffruticoe plant Paeonia Moutan, requires the most sheltered position in the shrubbery, where, in May and June, its flowers excel all others in magnificence. From such a list as that published by Mr Loudon, any one might form such a collection as, when properly ιrranged, would produce all the variety and beauty expected from the shrubbery.

There are many fine climbing shrubs, such as the species of Clematis, and of Loniccra or Honeysuckle. Others, though not precisely of this class, are much beholden to the shelter of a wall, such as the beautiful Magnolia conspicua, and Edwardsia tetraptera and microphylla. Among those of recent introduction, may be noticed Glycine Sinensis and Eccremocarpus scaber. The numerous species or varieties of Fuchsia, when planted against a wall, or even in the open ground, and shaded with an occasional covering in winter, convey to us a better idea of the riches of Chilian vegetation, than when they are confined to the shelves of the greenhouse. Many roses are also well adapted for walls, such as the varieties of Noisette, Boursault, and the different species from China.

A separate compartment, called the Rosary, is generally devoted to the cultivation of roses. It is often of an oval form, with concentric beds, and narrow intervening walks of grass or gravel, but it may assume any configuration which is suited to display this favourite plant. Of the thousand varieties of roses which exist in the nurseries, we pretend not to give any selection. It may, however, be remarked, that in planting the Rosary, care should be taken to classify the sorts according to the sizes and affinities, otherwise the effect will be much impaired. The climbing sorts may be advantageously introduced, being trained to pillar-like trellises. When the rosary is extensive, it is judicious to intersperse some of the most showy hollyhocks; for thus the beauty of the quarter is maintained in the later months of autumn, when the roses are chiefly past. Of late years, quantities of standard roses have been imported from the Continent. These are the finer sorts, budded on tall stocks of the wild species, such as R. villosa and canina. They are well adapted to stand singly on the little lawns in flower-gardens, or to break the uniformity of low flower borders.

All shrubs nearly may be propagated by layers, some by budding or grafting, many by separating the roots. In planting, shrubs may be arranged either singly or in masses: the latter method is perhaps the most efficient in the production of effect, but it should not be very servilely adhered to, as it is apt to beget monotony. Some kinds should never appear in masses: The white Portugal broom, for instance, when so arranged, gives a limy tint to a garden. Perhaps it is better that groups should contain a predominance of one shrub, set off by a few others of a contrasting figure or colour, than that they should be entirely homogeneous.

Herbaceous Plants. — Common perennial flowers, whether strictly herbaceous or bulbous, afford the principal materials for floral decoration. Botany supplies, as it were, the colours for the picture, and gardening grinds and prepares them for use. The painting is continually varying, and new shades are arriving and departing in succession. The least consideration of the subject will suggest the rule, that in planting flowers they should be arranged according to their stature, otherwise many of the most beautiful little flowers would be lost among their taller compeers. The lowest plants should therefore stand next the margin of the border or parterre, and they should increase in height as they go back. To produce a full shew, a profusion, just not amounting to crowding, is requisite. The flower-plots should present a regular bank of foliage and blossom, rising gradually from the front; but as this might convey an idea of too great precision, a few staring plants, on the same principle as those employed in greenhouses, should be thinly scattered over the surface. These may be shrubs, or any tall showy plant, such as Bocconia cordata, Papaver bracteatum, Gladiolus Byzantinus, or Lilium candidum, The management of colour is more difficult. When the length of the flowering season is considered, it will be obvious that it is impossible to keep up the show of a single border or plot for six months together, and consequently that much of the labour employed in mixing colours is misspent, since plants, as they are commonly arranged, come dropping into flower one after another; and even where a certain number are in bloom at the same time, they necessarily stand apart, and so the effects of contrast, which can be perceived only among adjacent objects, are entirely lost. To obviate this defect, it has been recommended that ornamental plants should be formed into four or five separate suites of flowering, to be distributed over the garden. Not to mention the more vernal flowers, the first might contain the flora of May; the second that of June; the third that of July; and the fourth the tribes of August and the following months. These plants should be kept in separate compartn⅛ents, arranged either singly or in masses; but the compartments themselves should be so intermingled, as that no particular class should be entirely absent from any one quarter of the garden. The May parterres should, however, chiefly occur in the vicinity of the greenhouse or conservatory, or, when these are absent, in a warm sunny situation. The flowerings of June and July, as being highly shewy, should occupy the most conspicuous parts of the garden. The autumnal perennials, not being so imposing, may retire into the more secluded situations, as they arc supplanted by the superior brilliancy of the annuals, which fill the vacant beds of florists’ flowers, or are scattered over the faded chimps of May and June,

Before attempting to plant, the floriculturist would do well to construct tables or lists of flowers, specifying their respective times of flowering, their colours, and altitudes. These tables, when skilfully used, would prevent mistakes, produce a greater facility of execution, and put the colours nearly as much under control as they are on the painter’s pallet. To diversify properly and mingle well together the reds, whites, purples, yellows, and blues, with all their [7:11:680]intervening shades, requires considerable taste and powers of conception; but if success is not attained in the first attempt, inaccuracies should be noted, and rectified at the proper time next season. Certain series of colours have been given, but these it is needless to mention, as it is quite immaterial whether the first flower in a row be red or white. The principal object is to preserve an agreeable contrast; and as at particular seasons a monotony of tint prevails, it is useful at such times to be in possession of some strong glaring colours. White, for instance, should be much employed in July, to break the duller blues and purples which then preponderate. The orange lily, too, is very effective at that season. On the other hand, yellows are superabundant in autumn, and therefore reds and blues should then be sought for.

Besides mere vividness of colour and elegance of form, there are other qualities which render plants desirable in the flower-garden. Whoever has visited a botanic garden, must have been sensible of an interest excited by the curious structure or by the scarcity of some plants. Even quaintness of form is deserving of attention. The -writer of this article has seen Allium fistulosum (the common Welsh onion) making a conspicuous figure in a flower-garden; and he remembers well a plant of sea-kale (Crambe maritima), which the good taste of the owner had introduced into the parterre, to the great disturbance of the ideas of the gardener. At the same time, it must be admitted that such expedients should be employed with reserve. No handsome plant should be rejected because it is common, nor any inconspicuous weed preserved merely because it is scarce. The flower-gardener should have a small nursery for the propagation of finer plants, to be transferred into the borders as often as is required.

We shall enumerate merely the. names of a few of the most shewy flowers, adapted to the British flower-garden.

Vernal Herbaceous Plants — Helleborus niger, lividus; Erianthus hyemalis; Hepatica triloba var.; Primula vulgaris var., veris, elation, marginata, helvetica, nivalis, viscosa, integrifolia, cortusoides; Cortusa Matthioli; Soldanella alpina, Clusii; Viola odorata, tricoor, biflora, altaica; Dodecatheon Meadia vars.; Orobus vernus; Adonis vernalis; Omphalodes verna; Corydalis lutea, longiflora; Sanguinaria canadensis; Iris pumila; Anemone apennina, Halleri, pulsatilla.

Vernal Bulbous Plants. — Galanthus nivalis; Leucoium vernum; Crocus, species; Cyclamen coum, vernum; Corydalis bulbosa; Erythronium Dens canis; Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus, moschatus, odorus, Jonquilla, &c.; Fri- t tiliaria imperialis, meleagris, persica; Gagea lutea; Tulipa sylvestris; Iris persica; Trillium grandiflorum, &c.; Scilla verna, praecox, bifolia, sibirica.

Herbaceous Plants βowering in May. Anemone nar-cissiflora, sylvestris, dichotoma; Primula farinosa, scotica; Convallaria majalis; U vularia gran diflora, perfoliata; Phlox divaricata, subulata, setacea, &c.; Asphodelus luteus, ramosus; Draba Aizoides; Viola cornuta, obliqua; Gentiana verna, acaulis; Lupinus polyphyllus; Gaillardia bicoor; Iris florentina, cristata, &c.— Bulbs : Leucoium aestivum, Scilla non-scripta, italica, &c. Hyacinthus monstrosus; Muscari moschatum, botryoides, comosum; Narcissus Bul∙- bocodium, poeticus, &c.

June — Herbaceous Plants. Paeonia officinalis, albiflora, corallina, Humii, &c.; Dianthus, species; Geranium sanguineum, Lancastricnse, Wallichianum, striatum, &c.; Mo-narda didyma, Kalmiana; Papaver bracteatum; Saxifraga, species; Spiraea, species; Mimulusluteus, moschatus; Trollius Americanus, europaeus; Lysimachia verticillata; Veronica latifolia, &c.; Geum coccineum; Aconitum napellus, &c.; Potentilla nepalensis, &c.— Bulbs : Allium Moly, Gladiolus byzantinus, communis; Lilium Pomponium, bulbiferum, aurantiacum, monadelphum, penduliflorum, concolor, &c.; Iris Xiphium, Xiphioides, &c.

July — Herbaceous Plants : Phlox intermedia, and many other species of that fine genus; Pentstemon, numerous species; Oenothera, various species; Campanula persici-folia, &c.; Asclepias amaena, syriaca; Iris fulva, pallida, variegata; Gentiana lutea, asclcpiadea, cruciata, septemfida, &c.; Chelone obliqua, barbata, Lyoni Bulbs : Lilium martagon, canadense, tigrinum, superbum, &c.; Gladiolus cardinalis, Tigridia pavonia, Commelina coelestis, Cyclamen hederaefolium.

Autumnal Herbaceous Plants : Phlox decussata, pyramidalis, tardiflora, &c.; Lobelia cardinalis, fulgens, splendens, &c.; Aster sibiricus, amellus, pulcher, &c.; Eschscholtzia californica; Solidago, several species; Aconitum japonicum, volubile, variegatum; Gentiana Saponaria; Pentstemon, several species— Bulbs: Colchicum autumnale; Crocus nudiflorus, serotinus; Tritona pallida, media.

It is with regret that we thus confine ourselves to a dry list of border flowers; but to do them any thing like justice, would require many pages. Within the last few years great accessions have been made to our stores. The Lupines and Pentstemons from the Columbia Priver, the Verbenas and Calceolarias from South America, and the Po-tentillas and Geraniums from Nepal, have in a great measure changed the face of our flower gardens. While our riches have increased, the difficulty, as well as the necessity, of making a selection have increased also.

Most herbaceous perennial plants are propagated by parting the roots, or by cuttings; but some most conveniently by the sowing of seed.

Biennial Plants. Plants whose existence is limited to two years, in the latter of which they flower and then decay, are called biennials. Many of them possess considerable beauty; and by their easy propagation, and rapid growth, they afford a ready means of decorating borders. The following may be considered most worthy of notice: Agrostemma coronaria; Antirrhinum majus; Hedysarum coronarium; Lunaria biennis; Campanula media; Oenothera sinuata, biennis; Verbascum formosum, Hesperis matronalis, Scabiosa atropurpurea, Mathiola simplicicaulis. When a very desirable variety is procured, such as the striped Antirrhinum majus, attention should be paid to the striking of cuttings during the summer, as the only means of continuance.

Biennials are sown in beds in the end of spring, and are generally transplanted in the course of the autumn, into the places where they are intended to stand, that they may be confirmed before winter, and shoot up readily into flower in the following summer.

Annual Plants —Many of the annuals species, though of fugitive duration, are possessed of much beauty of hue and elegance of form. They are further valuable from their pliability, so to speak, and the promptitude with which they may be used. They are besides of easy culture, many requiring nothing more than to have the seeds sown in the spot where they are to grow. Annuals may be divided into three classes, the hardy, the half-hardy, and the tender. The first class, as stated above, are sown at once in the ground which they are to occupy; the half-hardy succeed best when aided at first by a slight hot-bed, and then transplanted into the open air; the tender are kept in pots, and treated as greenhouse or stove-plants, to which departments they properly belong. It is scarcely necessary to remark that the hardy and half hardy sorts may be grown either in patches or in beds, and are subjected to all the rules which regulate the disposition of common border flowers.

Hardy Annuals. — Adonis autumnalis; Iberis umbellata; Knautia orientalis; Alyssum, several species; Linaria, various species; Delphinium Ajacis, consolida; Silene Armeria[7:11:681]; Campanula speculum, Lorii; Lavatera trimestris; Malope trifida; Hibiscus trionum, bifrons; Nolana, various species; Papaver somniferum, numerous varieties; P. Rhoeas, varieties; Gilia capitata, tricoor; Collinsia grandiflora; Kaulfussia amelloides; Clarkia pulchella, elegans; Oenothera rosea, rosea-alba, tenella, Lindleyana, Roman-zovii; Rudbeekiaamplexicaulis; Senecio elegans; Mathiola annua; Lupinus, several species.

Half-hardy Annuals — Callistemma hortense; Lopezia racemosa, Tagetes patula, erecta, racemosa, &c.; Zinnia elegans, pauciflora; Xeranthemum annuum, Helichrysum fulgidum, Chrysanthemum carinatum; Amaranthus caudatus; Sehizanthus pinnatus, porrigens, Grahami, Hookeri; Salpiglossis atro-purpurea, straminea; Petunia nyctagini-flora; Mirabilis Jalapa.

Tender Annuals.— Impatiens Balsamina, Browallia elata, Celosia eristata, Gomphraena globosa; Solanum melongena; Mesembryanthemum crystallinum.

We have been able to enumerate only a small selection of species, out of a multitude which is continually receiving accessions. Many of the sorts mentioned above have been introduced during the last ten or fifteen years; and we doubt not that, in an equal period from the present, many more will come into notice.

Before leaving this part of the subject, it may be proper to mention, that it is now the practice of some florists to grow and treat as annuals, or rather as biennials, great quantities of the more hardy Pélargonia, Verbenae, Salviae, Fusehiae, Hemimeris, and other genera. Mr James Smith at Hopetoun House, every season propagates, by cuttings or seeds, several hundreds of these plants. Grown in moderate-sized pots, they are kept in frames or cold vineries during winter. About the end of May, or as soon as there is no longer any apprehension of injury from frost, the plants are taken out of the pots and plunged into the open ground, in any warm sunny spot or elump in the flower garden. If the stems are long or naked, they are pegged to the earth. Towards the middle of July they begin to grow vigorously, and in August or September present, in luxuriance, at least, if not in magnitude, a better representation of their native vegetation than we see elsewhere in our gardens. Upon the approach of frost, they are, with the exception of the Fuschias, left to their fate, as it is easier to propagate new ones than to preserve the old. These plants, with the fine new annuals, and the gorgeous Dahlias, give a splendour to the autumnal flower garden which in former times it did not possess.

Florists’ Flowers This technical appellation has been restricted to certain flowers, which have been especial favourites with florists, and have consequently received a large share of their attention. Though possessed of great individual beauty, few of them are calculated to make a shew at a distance, and the arrangements requisite for their culture do not harmonize well with the general disposition of a flower garden. It is, therefore, desirable, particularly when considerable refinement is aimed at, that a separate garden, or a separate section of the garden, should be set apart for their culture. The more robust or less valuable varieties, however, which are often as shewy as the most esteemed, may be introduced into the general parterres. We shall notice the most considerable, in the order in which they naturally attract attention.

The Hyacinth, Hyacinthus orientalis, one of the most beautiful and fragrant of the spring flowers, is a native of the Levant, where it occurs abundantly, in form not unlike our common harebell. It has long been a favourite in the East: but has been brought to its present artificial perfection in Holland, chiefly since the beginning of last century. Many years ago it was successfully grown in the vicinity of Edinburgh, by Justice, one of the most ingenious horticulturists of his time: but it must be confessed that, in the culture of this flower, the British florists have never attained to the eminence of the Dutch, principally, however, as is alleged by some, from want of attention and pains-taking. According to Miller, the catalogues of the Haarlem florists used to enumerate' 2000 sorts, some of which sold as high as L. 200 a bulb: they are now less numerous, and much less expensive.

Hyacinths are either single, semidouble or double, and exhibit a great variety of tint. In a fine flower the stalk should be tall, strong, and upright; the blossoms numerous, large, and suspended in a horizontal direction; the whole flower having a compaet pyramidal form, with the uppermost blossom quite erect; the plain colour should be clear and bright; and strong colours are preferable to pale; when colours are mixed they should blend with elegance.

The hyacinth delights in a rielι light sandy soil; and it is chiefly owing to the want of these qualities in his composts, that the British florist fails in the growth of this beautiful plant. The Dutch compost, as given by the Hon. and Rev. Mr Herbert in the London Hortic. Transactions vol. iv., is the following: One-third coarse sea or river sand; one-third rotten cow-dung without litter; and one-third leaf mould. The natural soil is removed at least two feet deep, and the vaeant space filled up with compost, previously prepared and well mixed. These materials retain their qualities for six or seven years, but the Dutch do not plant hyacinths upon the same place for two years successively. In the alternate years they plant it with narcissus or crocus. We may mention that, in the finest lied of hyacinths which we have seen in Scotland, a considerable portion of the soil was composed of sleetch, a sort of sandy and marly deposition from the ooze on the shores of the Forth.

A ecording to Mr Main (Villa and Cottage Florists’ Directory, p. 84.J St Crispin’s day, the 25th of October, is the best time to plant the bulbs. They arc arranged in rows, eight inches asunder, there being four rows in eaeli bed; or, if more convenient, they may be placed in rows across the bed. The bulbs are sunk about three or four inches deep, and it is recommended to put a small quantity of clean sand below and all around them. As the roots are liable to be injured by frost, it is usual to cover the beds with decayed tan-bark, with litter or with awnings. The first may be considered the neatest during winter, but an awning is nearly indispensable in spring when the lingering colds prove exceedingly hurtful to the young flowerstems. The awning may be made of coarse sheeting or duck. As the flower-stems appear, they are tied to little rods, to keep them upright and preserve them from accident. In order to perfect the colours, the rays of the sun are admitted in the morning or in the evening, but the glare of mid-day and the cold of the night, are both excluded. When the season of blossom is over the awning is removed, or only replaced to keep off heavy rains. Much of the success, in the culture of this flower, depends on the subsequent management of the bulbs. It is the practice in Holland, about a month after the bloom, or when the tips of the leaves assume a withered appearance, to take up the roots, and, cutting off the stem and the foliage within half an inch of the bulb, but leaving the fibres, to lay the bulbs sideways on the ground, covering then} with half an inch of dry earth. After three weeks, they are again taken up, cleaned, and removed to the store-room. In this country it is more common to allow them to stand till the leaves be withered, and then to take them up at once. In the store-room the roots should be kept dry, well-aired, and apart from each other.

Where forcing is practised, a few hyacinths may be forced in deep flower-pots filled with light earth, and, when coming into flower, transferred to the greenhouse, which they enliven at the deadest season of the year. In chambers, they [7:11:682]are grown in water-glasses made for the purpose; or, with still greater advantage, in boxes filled with damp hypnum moss.

New varieties of hyacinths are procured by sowing the seed; but this is a tedious process, and seldom followed in this country. The established sorts are propagated by offsets or small bulbs, which form at the base of the parent bulb. Almost all the hyacinths cultivated in this country are imported from Holland, and the quantity of roots annually introduced must be very considerable.

The Tulip, Tulipa Gesneriana, is a native of the East, whence it was introduced in Europe about the middle of the 16th century. Gaudy as it is, it has no proper corolla, but only a calyx of six coloured sepals. About the year 1635 the culture of the tulip was very engrossing; and, indeed, the rage for possessing rare sorts had become so great in Holland, as to give rise to a strange species of gambling, known to the collectors of literary and scientific anecdotes by the name of Tulipo-mania, which has tended to bring unmerited discredit on this fine flower. At present the finer tulips are mostly of moderate price, and, though not to be met with in every garden, have yet some ardent cultivators.

There are some varieties, such as the early Due Van Thol, the Clarimond, the Parrots, and the Double Tulips, which belong, properly speaking, to the general cultivator. In this country, the florists’ tulips are arranged under four classes. 1. The Bizarres, which have a yellow ground marked with purple or scarlet. 2. The Bybloemens, with a white ground marked with violet or purple. 3. The Roses, with a white ground marked with rose-colour. 4. The Self or Plain-coloured tulips, which are of one uniform colour, and are chiefly valued as breeders. The Byblβemen class includes most of those tulips which are held in highest esteem ill this country.

The properties of a fine late tulip, as specified by Mr Hogg, are the following, somewhat abridged. The stem should be strong, erect, thirty inches high: the flower large, of six petals (sepals), which should proceed almost horizontally at first, and, turning up, should form an almost perfect cup, with a round bottom, rather widest at top. The three exterior petals should be rather larger than the three interior ones: the limbs of the petals should be rounded, and freed from every species of, serrature. The ground colour of the flower at the bottom should be clear white or yellow; and the various rich-coloured stripes, which are the principal ornament of a fine tulip, should be regular, bold, and distinct at the margin, and terminate in fine broken points, elegantly feathered or pencilled. There are other refinements upon which florists are not quite agreed: and it must be confessed, that their standard of excellence is somewhat factitious; for, to an uninstructed eye, though practised in the contemplation of other sorts of beauty, a tulip, which by them is looked upon as worthless, will often appear as fine as the choicest variety in the select bed.

Tulips prosper in a light sandy soil, richly manured with well rutted cow dung. Twenty inches depth of soil should be removed, and the vacant space filled up with compost. Some put alternate layers of light soil and cow dung. The bed should be filled up with compost about the middle of October, and in a fortnight, when the soil has subsided, the bulbs are planted in rows, distant eight or nine inches, and at the depth of about three inches. A little clean sand may be put around the bulbs. After planting, the bed may be covered over with tan, or with a hooped awning, as in the ease of hyacinths. In spring, it is necessary to shield the leaves and flower-stalks -from frost, and also from heavy rains; and, when in bloom, the flowers must be sheltered from the sun’s rays, by which they are speedily injured. After the sepals have fallen, the seed-vessels are broken off close by the stem, to prevent the plant from exhausting itself in perfecting seed, and to direct its energies to the forming of the new bulb. When the leaves have withered, the bulbs are taken up, dried, and stored until the planting season come round.

Tulips are readily propagated by offsets, which are taken off from the parent bulbs, and nursed in separate beds till they be full grown. New varieties are raised from seed; they are from five to seven years old before they flower, and, if raised from promiscuous seed, they often turn out worthless. Early in the 18th century, the distinguished Scottish cultivator, Sir James Justice (already mentioned as a most successful cultivator of hyacinths), was eminently successful in raising fine seedling tulips; and some skilful florists of our own day, such as Mr Strong of Brook Green, and Mr Oliver of Edinburgh, succeed in breaking their seedlings into colours equal to the finest bybloemens of Holland. They save the seeds from the first-rate sorts, the stigma of the intended parent flower having been fertilized with the pollen of some other fine variety. Seedling tulips, it may be remarked, present this anomaly for the first two or three years, that they form their new bulbs several inches below the old ones, so that an inexperienced cultivator is sometimes apt to miss them at the time of lifting.

The Ranunculus (R. Asiaticus) is, like many of the other florist’s flowers, a native of the Levant, where it is a favourite of the Turks. It has sported into innumerable varieties, and those now in cultivation in this country are mostly of British origin. The plant is of small stature, furnished with decomposite leaves, and rising from a root formed by a bundle of little tubers. . ∙.

According to the canons of floral criticism, the properties of a fine double ranunculus are the following: The stem should be strong, straight, and from eight to ten inches high, supporting a large well-formed blossom at least two inches in diameter, consisting of numerous petals, the largest at the outside, and gradually diminishing in size as they approach the centre of the flower, which should be well filled up with them. The blossom should be of a hemispherical form; its component petals imbricated neither too closely nor too much separated, and having rather a perpendicular than a horizontal direction. The petals should be broad, and have perfectly entire well-rounded edges; their colours should be dark, clear, rich or brilliant, either consisting of one colour throughout, or be otherwise variously diversified on an ash, white, sulphur or fire-coloured ground, or regularly striped, spotted, or mottled in an elegant manner.

The ranunculus requires a stronger and moister soil than most other flowers. Maddock prefers a fresh, strong, rich loam. Hogg recommends a fresh loam, with a considerable portion of rotted cow or horse dung. The Rev. Mr Williamson (Hort. Trans, vol. iv.) uses a stiff clay loam, with a fourth of rotten dung. “The bed should be dug from eighteen inches to two feet deep, and not raised more than four inches above the level of the walks, to preserve the moisture more effectually: at about five inches below the surface should be placed a stratum of two-year-old rotten cow dung, mixed with earth, six or eight inches thick; but the earth above this stratum, where the roots are to be placed, should be perfectly free from dung, which would prove injurious if nearer. The fibres will draw sufficient nourishment at the depth above mentioned; but it the dung were placed deeper, it would not receive so much advantage from the action of the air.” Other florists have recommended to put the manure at least two feet and a half below the surface of the earth. The principal object, however, is to maintain throughout the bed a genial moisture; and this is to be done by avoiding all hot gravelly earths, and particularly soils that are apt to cake. The tubers are planted late in autumn or early in spring, in rows five or six inches apart, and three or four inches separate [7:11:683]in the rows. They should be so close that the foliage shall cover the surface of the bed, for in this way a salutary degree of shade and moisture is preserved. The autumn planted roots must be sheltered from frost by old tan or hooped mattings. When in flower, the plants are covered with an awning. When the leaves wither, the roots are taken up, dried, and stored.

Scarcely any florists’ flower is more readily propagated from seed, or sooner repays the care of the cultivator. The seed is obtained from semi-double sorts, which are often of themselves very beautiful flowers. It is generally sown in boxes in autumn or spring. We have often seen it committed with success to the open ground. The young plants thus raised flower, often in the second, and always in the third year.

The Anemone of the flower garden includes two species, Anemone coronaria, a native of the Levant, and A. hortensis, a native of Italy. These have long shared the attention of the florist, and in his arrangements have generally been associated with the ranunculus, resembling it in its natural affinities and mode of culture. The single and semi-double flowers are considered nearly as fine as the double ones. The sorts are numerous, but at present are seldom distinguished by names. In a fine double anemone, the stem should be strong, erect, and not less than nine inches high. The flower should be at least two and a half inches in diameter, consisting of an exterior row of large well rounded petals, in the form of a broad shallow cup, the interior part of which should contain a number of small petals, mixed with stamens, imbricating each other. The colours should be clear and distinct, when diversified in the same flower, or striking and brilliant, when there is only one tint.

The soil and culture are so nearly the same as in the ranunculus, that it is needless to specify them. The plant continues longer in flower, and the leaves often remain so long green, that it is difficult to find a period of inaction in which to take up the roots. It has been recommended, that as soon as the bloom is over, the bed should be screened from rain by mattings until the leaves wither. As the roots are rather brittle, they require considerable care in handling. Anemones are easily raised from the seed. A bed of single anemones, it may be remarked, is a valuable addition to a flower garden, as it affords, in a warm situation, an abundance of handsome and often brilliant spring flowers, almost as early as the snowdrop or crocus.

The Narcissus is an extensive genus, including a great many interesting species and varieties. It belongs, however, rather to the botanicoflorist than to the florist proper; but as it contains many plants of great elegance, it ought to receive more general attention. The Polyanthus Narcissus (N. Tazetta) affords the varieties which are chiefly cultivated by florists. These prosper in a rich light soil, containing a little dung. The roots should not be stirred more frequently than once in three years; and this remark applies also to Narcissus Jonquilla and odorus, the small and large jonquil, of which fragrant plants there should be beds in every flower garden. N. Tazetta, like the hyacinth, may also be grown either in pots or in water-glasses.

Iris. The species which peculiarly appertain to the florist are, I. Xiphium and Xiphioides, of both of which there are many beautiful varieties. They are of easy culture, succeeding in almost any kind of soil, and requiring to be moved only once in three or four years. The roots are not improved by being kept out of the ground; and perhaps the best method is, upon taking them up and freeing them from their shaggy skins, to replant them immediately.

Besides these, may be mentioned the Persian Iris (I. Persica), a low bulbous-rooted plant, with delicate blue or violet coloured flowers, and a high degree of fragrance. It has long been cultivated by the Dutch, from whom bulbs are annually procured. It is grown in water, or in pots of nearly pure sand. When planted out, it requires to be guarded from frosts and rain. The Snake’s-head Iris (I. tuberosa, Bot. Mag.) is also a fragrant species, and is more hardy than the preceding. Mr Denson, who has been very successful in the culture of this plant, recommends, in Gard. Mag. vol. viii., that it should be allowed to stand two or three years in succession on the same spot; when, “in July, take it up and divide the tubers, planting them soon as dug up, six inches deep in a compost formed of half friable mould, and half leaf mould, or old hot-bed dung, rotted to the consistence of soil. Let the situation be a dry bed or border, at the base of a wall, with a southern aspect, and plant the tubers close to the wall, or only a few inches from it.” The Chalcedonian Iris (I. susiana), is the most magnificent species of the genus, and is well worth the labour of the cultivator. Its little stalk, a few inches high, is surmounted by a splendid corolla, the petals of which are nearly as broad as the hand, and are of a purple or black ground, striped with white. It loves a loamy soil, and a sunny exposure, and must be guarded from moisture and frosts in winter. For these three species Mr Loudon recommends the protection of a frame.

There are many other species which are worthy of a place in a select flower garden, and when well grouped in a peaty earth, form an agreeable appendage to a parterre. Of these we may mention the low creeping I. cristata and pumila, the more aspiring prismatica, flexuosa, virginica, sordida, variegata and Swertii, the taller Sibirica, triflora and ochroleuca, the broad leaved Florentina, Germanica and sambucins⅛ and the stately pallida, which, for simple elegance, is not outshone by any of its compeers. This beautiful family is much beholden to David Falconer, Esq. of Carlowrie, who has introduced some of its most interesting members to the horticultural world in Scotland.

The Lily. Of the genus Lilium there are many species, some of which have not been exhibited to the extent of their capabilities in the flower garden. The old white Lily (L. candidum, L.) after supplying the poets with so much imagery, has retired into the modest station of a common border flower. The flaunting Orange-Lily (L. bulbiferum) may be allowed, if it pleases, to follow its example. L. mar-tagon may occupy the same place. The scarlet Turk’s Cap (L. Chalcedonicum) is worthy of more care, as being more beautiful and more tender. It does not relish being disturbed, and it dislikes peat. On the contrary, the splendid Tiger Lily (L. tigrinum), which propagates rapidly by axillary bulbs, succeeds best in peaty soil. The same remark applies to the rarer L. canadense, and superbum (magnificent species) as well as to L. concolor, Pennsyl-vanicum and others, which ought to be more common in our gardens. L. Japonicum and longiflorum, in which the genus attains its greatest magnificence, unfortunately require a finer climate than ours, and must therefore be grown in pots under glass.

Omitting Crocus, Fritillaria, and some other bulbous genera, which are sometimes treated as florists’ flowers, we proceed to one of the prime ornaments of the autumnal flower garden, the Dahlia, or Georgina, as it is called by some writers.

The Dahlia, of which there are two species (D. variabilis and D. coccinca), is a native of Mexico from which it was introduced in 1789, but afterwards lost by our cultivators. It was reintroduced in 1804; but it was not till ten years later that it was generally known in our gardens. The first plants were single, of ¼ a pale purple colour, and though interesting, as affording a new form of floral ornament, they by no means held forth a promise of the infinite diversity of tint and figure exhibited by their successors. At present the varieties are endless, each district [7:11:684] of the country possessing suites of its own, and cultivators occasionally raising at one sowing a dozen or two of sorts, which they think worthy of preservation. The results have been most propitious to the flower garden, from which, indeed, the Dahlia could nearly as ill be spared, as the potato from the kitchen garden.

The varieties of Dahlia may be classed under the following heads: 1. The Common or Rose-shaped form, under which the double sorts first appeared. This is by far the most numerous class, and perhaps the most beautiful. The dwarf sorts arc in most repute. 2. The Anemone-flowered, having a radius of large petals, and a central disk of smaller ones, somewhat like the double anemone. 3. Globe-flowered, having small globular flowers, which are extremely double. They possess great intensity of colour, and, rising for the most part above the leaves, make generally as striking an appearance as those of a more massive efflorescence.

In a fine Dahlia the flowers should be fully double, always filling the centre; the florets should be entire or nearly so, regular in their disposition, each series overlapping the other backwards; they may be either plain or quilled, but never distorted: if, instead of being reflexed, the florets are recurved, the flower will be more symmetrical. The peduncles ought to be strong enough to keep the blossoms erect, and long enough to shew the flowers above the leaves. Bright and deep velvety colours are most admired.

New varieties are, of course, procured from seed. If sown in flower-pots, and aided by a little heat, the seedlings, speedily planted out, will flower the first season. Estab'lis'hed •varieties are propagated by dividing the large tuberous roots, but in doing so, care must be taken to have an eye to each portion of tuber, otherwise it will not grow. Sometimes shoots of rare varieties are grafted on the roots of others. A good method is to take cuttings close from the roots of the plants, as soon as they shoot up in the beginning of summer, and to strike them in small flower-pots. These will generally flower during the current season.

Dahlias succeed best in an open situation, and in rich loam; but there is scarcely any garden soil in which they will not thrive, with manure. They are, however, injured by being repeatedly planted on the same spot. They may stand singly like common border flowers; but have the most imposing appearance when seen in masses arranged according to their stature. Old roots often throw up a multitude of stems, which render thinning necessary. As the plants increase in height, they are furnished with strong stakes, to secure them from high winds. Dahlias generally flower till they are interrupted by frost in autumn. The roots are then taken up, dried, and stored in a cellar, or some other place, where they may be secured from frost and moisture.

The Auricula (Primula Auricula) is a native of the Alps and the Caucasus. It has long been an inmate of our gardens; and has generally been a favourite with those florists whose means and appliances arc of a limited kind. Some of the most successful cultivators at present are among the Operatives in the vicinity of Manchester and Paisley.

Besides the double varieties which have never been in much repute, Auriculas are classed under two divisions: the Selfs or plain-coloured, and the variegated or painted sorts. Professed florists, confine their attention to the latter: it must, however, be confessed, that their criteria of fine flowers are often .arbitrary, and that although many of their favourites are examples of undoubted beauty, the eye of the uninitiated would generally prefer the simpler hues, of the self-coloured flowers.

The auricula, though now almost wholly an artificial plant, and strangely transformed from its original appearance, still loves a moist soil and shady situation. The florists’ varieties are grown in rich composts, for the preparation of which numberless receipts have been given. We quote that of Mr Hogg, an experienced grower, as stated in his Supplement, p. 166. “One barrow of rich yellow loam, or fresh earth from some meadow or pasture land or common, with the turf well rotten; one barrow of leaf mould, one ditto of cow-dung, two years old at least; and one peck of river, not sea sand. For strong plants intended for exhibition, add to the same composition, as a stimulant, a barrowful of well decayed night soil, with the application of liquid manure before the top-dressing in February, and twice more, but not oftener, in March. A portion of light, sandy, peat-earth may be added, as a safe and useful ingredient, particularly for plants kept in low damp situations.”

Auriculas may be propagated from seed. It is to "be sown in January or February in boxes, which are kept under cover, and exposed only to the rays of the morning sun. When seed has been saved from the finer sorts, the operation is one of considerable nicety, as it not unfrequently happens that the best seedlings are at first exceedingly weak. They generally flower in the second or third year; and the florist is fortunate who obtains three or four good sorts out of a large sowing. The established varieties are increased by dividing the roots, an operation which is performed in July or in the beginning of August.

Fine auriculas are grown in pots about six inches in diameter. These are kept in frames, or stages constructed for the purpose. For winter use, perhaps there is nothing better than a common hot-bed frame, as this admits of an exact adjustment of air and temperature, things to which attention is absolutely necessary as the plants approach the flowering season. After the bloom is over, the pots may be placed on stages slightly elevated, and facing the north. Though not absolutely necessary, it is useful to have the power of sheltering them from long continued rains. It is usual every year to shift the plants, shortening the roots, and giving them a large portion of new soil, soon after the flowers have decayed. For more detailed information on this subject, we may refer to the well-known treatises of Maddock and Hogg.

The Polyanthus is supposed to be a seminal variety of Primula vulgaris; and is much cultivated by some florists. Like the auricula, it has sported into many hundred varieties. It is not necessary to give a detailed account of its culture, as it scarcely differs from that of the auricula. The polyanthus, however, is the hardier of the two, and seldom perishes from cold. It may be mentioned that there are several beautiful double varieties of the common primrose, which are deserving of a place in every garden.

The whole genus Primula merits the attention of the curious cultivator. P. helvetica and nivalis adorn the flower borders in spring with their abundant trusses of blossom. P. marginata, when planted in a shady situation, is equally lavish of its pale and delicately beautiful flowers. P. viscosa and integrifolia, with their intense colours, are the ornaments of the alpine frame; or, with P. longifolia, farinosa, and Scotica, may be plunged into the margin of the American border. A supply, however, should be kept in pots. Besides these we might name P. cortusoides, Pallasii, Palinuri, and others. The curious P. verticillata, and the splendid P. Sinensis, are inmates of the greenhouse. The florist of simple tastes will love them all.

The Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus) has long been a favourite flower, not only for the beauty but for the delightful fragrance of its blossoms. It is a native of Germany, and it is occasionally found in an apparently wild state in England. The cultivation of it, however, is by no means easy, and calls forth all the resources of the florist. The varieties, which are very numerous, have been arranged under three heads: Flakes, having two colours, with their stripes running quite through and along the [7:11:685]petals; Bizarres, irregularly spotted, and striped with not few er than three colours; Picoεes, spotted, with serrated or fringed petals. Mr Hogg, who has written a treatise expressly on this flower, has given a catalogue of nearly 350 bθrts.

Carnations are propagated by layers or pipings: the former method is most practised, but with some sorts piping, it is said, should be preferred. Layering is performed when the plant is in full bloom. Proper shoots are selected; a few of the lower leaves are then removed; an incision is made a little below a suitable joint passing up through it, and the shoot is then pegged down and covered with some fresh soil, the tip being left above ground. Layers are generally found to be rooted in about a month after the operation has been performed. Pipings are little cuttings, separated at a joint, and planted thickly under bell-glasses on a slight hot-bed. They require great attention, and are precarious in their success, but form excellent plants.

Numerous directions have been given respecting composts for carnations. We abridge those of Hogg, who is principal authority in this matter. Take three barrows of loam, one and a half of garden mould, ten of horse-dung, and one of coarse sand; let these be mixed, and thrown into a heap, and turned over two or three times in the winter, particularly in frosty weather. Towards the end of November a barrow-load of lime is added while hot, to aid in the decomposition of the soil, and destroy worms. For the varieties which are liable to sport, he recommends a poorer compost.

The more robust carnations are planted out in beds or singly in the flower garden; but the finer and tenderer sorts are growm in pots of about a foot in diameter. The time of potting is about the end of March. When the flower-stems shew themselves, they are furnished with rods, to which they are tied as they lengthen, to prevent their being broken by the wind or other accident. When the plants begin to expand their blossoms, they are removed to a stage calculated to exhibit their beauties. Some florists attach ligatures of matting to the flower-buds, in order to prevent irregular bursting, and even arrange the petals, by removing distortions with scissars.

New varieties are raised from seed. The seed of the hardier double or semidouble sorts often affords a very beautiful bed of flowers, and should not be neglected by those who have the command of extensive flower gardens.

The Pink is considered by botanists as merely a variety of the preceding. It is, however, very distinct in its character, and constant in its habits. It is one of the mechanics’flowers, and is cultivated most extensively in the neighbourhood of some of the manufacturing towns. Its simple elegance does credit to the taste of those who select it for their favourite; and it deserves a place in the garden of the highest as well as of the lowest in the land. Pinks are numerous, the growers at Paisley enumerating about three hundred varieties. Those are preferred which have the limb of the petals nearly entire, and are well marked in the centre with bright crimson or dark purple.

Pinks are mostly propagated by pipings in slight hotbeds or unde; hand glasses; and when proper attention is given to the due admission of air, they generally succeed. Occasionally rare sorts, which are scantily furnished with grass, are propagated by layers. This flower does not require such elaborate composts as some others, but it likes fresh light soils, well manured with decayed cow dung. Not more than two years of blooms should be taken from the same bed, and it is the practice of most florists to have a new bed every year. The flower stalks are supported by small sticks. As in the carnation, ligatures of matting, or collars of card, are sometimes applied to the calyces of the flowers: but this practice, however it may be followed by those who judge according to the technical “criteria of a fine flower,” will scarcely be adopted by any who have an eye for natural beauty.

The genus Lobelia may now be regarded as affording a group of florists’ flowers. L. Cardinalis, the cardinal flower, has long been a valued but somewhat rare plant. It is propagated by seed or by off-sets. L, fulgens is a more shewy species, which, when potted and treated as a tender annual, forms a magnificent plant. It also succeeds perfectly well in the open borders. Being a semi-aquatic, it may be preserved during winter in springs or cisterns. We have seen quantities kept most successfully at the mouth of an Artesian spring at Hopetoun House. L. splendens is also worthy of notice. Besides the quaint L. tupa, there are many other species, particularly the blue and yellow procumbent sorts, which merit a place in every collection of fine flowers.

It would lead us too much into detail to speak minutely of Calceolaria, Phlox, Chelone, Pentstemon, Oenothera, and other genera, which approach the character of florists’ flowers. To have them in perfection, they should be kept in beds by themselves: and we are persuaded that, were a moiety of the care bestowed upon some of the preceding flowers, which are conventionally supposed to belong peculiarly to the florist, expended on them, they would amply repay the labour of the cultivator.

The Chinese Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum sinense), from the peculiar culture which it now undergoes, may be considered to belong to this department of flowers. It is a native of China, and though introduced many years ago, its ornamental capabilities have only recently been brought into notice. Flowering in November and December, it fills up, with its many coloured blossoms, the blank of a most dreary season, and affords the means of decorating greenhouses, conservatories, and dwelling-houses, when almost all other means of embellishment fail. Forty varieties have been enumerated by Mr Sabine in the London Horticultural Memoirs, but it is believed that there are many others not yet introduced from China. The Chrysanthemum is hardy enough to live in the open air, but it requires the shelter of a wall, and from the lateness of its flowering, it is only the early varieties that, even n fine seasons, are permitted to unfold their blossoms. It is seen in its beauty only when grown in pots. Yearly plants are preferred. In the beginning of April, cuttings of the last year’s shoots, about three inches long, are put singly into small pots, filled with soil composed of one half bog earth 0 ∙ leaf mould, and one half pure sand. Their growth is expedited at first by gentle heat. In about a month they are rooted and are put into a cold frame, in which they are kept till the beginning of June, when they are put into larger pots, and set out in some airy situation, About this time the tops of the plants are pinched off to make them bushy, but no more side shoots are allowed to remain for flowering than the plants are likely to be able to support. In August they are again shifted into larger pots, filled with strong rich soil, During the whole season, the pots are frequently moved to prevent the roots from striking through, and they are never plunged. Mr Monro of the Lond. Hortiç, Garden, whose method of culture we have been describing, recommends liquid manure to be applied from time to time in summer and autumn. Other cultivators, in order to have a greater succession of flowers, and a variety in the stature of the plants, strike cuttings at two seasons, in March and in May, and propagate by layers in August. In the beginning of winter the plants are put into a cold frame or vinery, and they are brought into a milder temperature as they are wanted. To produce large shewy plants, a few of the. chrysanthemums of the former year may be selected, and, being freed from suckers, and having the mould shaken from their roots, may be repotted and shifted repeatedly during the summer and autumn.
[7:11:686]

BOTANICAL STRUCTURES.

Glazed houses, for the reception and culture of exotic plants, though sometimes placed in connection with similar structures in the forcing department, are now almost universally regarded as appendages of the flowet’ garden. In the hands of architects they have assumed a great variety of forms. We shall confine ourselves to the exhibition of the principle of the most important of these, and shall limit our remarks to the Greenhouse, the Conservatory, and the Stove.

The Greenhouse is intended to afford a winter and partly a summer shelter to the less tender classes of exotic plants grown in pots. Fig. 5, Plate CCXCIII., exhibits the old lean-to greenhouse. The general form of the house is that of a vinery with pretty lofty front glass. The main part of the area is occupied by a stage rising in steps to receive the potted plants. At some height above the front flue is placed a narrow horizontal bench of trellis work to receive small plants which require to be near the light. The interior air is warmed by one or two flues, or other heating apparatus, according to its volume; but a temperature of 45° Fahr, during winter is sufficient. Sometimes greenhouses are constructed with span-roofs and a double stage. They may indeed assume any form which taste can suggest, provided there be a sufficiency of light, and the plants be not too far from the glass. The heath-house does not essentially differ from the greenhouse, but for it a span roof is certainly preferable.

In the Conservatory the chief plants grow in beds of earth sunk in the floor. Fig. .3, Plate CCXCIII. shews the principle of this species of house. The beds marked b b are filled with a light soil calculated for the plants which are to inhabit them. Fig. 4. represents the front elevation of the roof. Numerous varieties of this structure also have appeared, and some most sumptuous examples have been erected in the gardens of the nobility. With similar restrictions as in the greenhouse, the conservatory may be said to be capable of assuming any form.

The Plant Stove may be either a dry stove or a bark stove, or both combined, and is applied to the cultivation of tropical plants which require an elevated temperature. The dry stove may be considered as a greenhouse with a larger than usual apparatus for the production of heat. The bark stove is furnished somewhat in the manner of a pine stove, with a receptacle to contain a bed of fermenting tanners’ bark into which the pots are plunged. In this country, stoves are regarded as belonging rather to the botanic than to the flower garden; they are extremely useful, however, in the latter, for, besides presenting the florist with many unusual forms of vegetation, they afford in summer a variety of beautiful plants, which, when in flower, may be introduced into the greenhouse.

Sometimes the various botanical structures are combined into one imposing assemblage, as that exhibited in Plate CCXCIII. Fig. 1, the ground-plan of which is given in Fig. 2 of the same plate; a being a palm-house; b for New Holland plants; c large greenhouse; and the intermediate spaces being occupied by dry stove, heath-house, and greenhouses. This mode is, of course, suited only for places of the first order, where splendour is the object, where every thing is on a great scale, and expense little regarded. In a vast proportion of cases economy must be studied; and in villa gardens the ornamental plant-house is very often attached to the library or the drawing-room. A good plan for such a glazed house may be found in the Gardener’s Magazine, vol. vi. p. 664.

Greenhouse Plants. — This beautiful class of plants have become so numerous, that, in a sketch like the present, it is impossible to give the names of even a limited selection. We may once more refer to Mr Loudon’s tables in his Encyclopedia of Horticulture, or to his still more copious lists in the Hortus Britannicus, in both of which works much valuable information may be obtained. The recent increase of species makes the work of selection at once more necessary and more difficult; a work which it must be confessed is often negligently performed. Many of the finer sorts of woody plants are propagated with difficulty, and consequently, being high priced in the nurseries, are possessed in requisite abundance only where there is considerable liberality on the part of the proprietor. On the other hand, the species which strike easily are circulated by gardeners themselves, many of whom, by their own interest and resources, more than half fill their greenhouses without calling for the aid of their employers. To this cause may be ascribed the perpetuation of many mean looking plants, which, if hardy, would scarcely be tolerated in well-kept shrubberies, and certainly ought not to encumber the greenhouse.

Light mould produced by the rotting of turf from pastures, and reduced with sand if necessary, or enriched with leaf-mould, is well adapted for most greenhouse plants. Some require a mixture of peat earth: others thrive only in pure sandy peat. If more specific directions be wished, we would recommend the reader to have recourse to Cushing’s Exotic Gardener, or to the more recent work by Sweet, entitled The Botanical Cultivator. The common means of propagation is by cuttings, inserted in earth or sand, and covered, if necessary, with bell-glasses. A few sorts are increased by grafting or layers. Nearly all may be raised from seed, large quantities of which are annually imported from abroad; and, it may be added, many greenhouse plants ripen their seed in this country.

Many of these plants require shifting and fresh earth twice a year; all of them should be repotted once a year at least. It is the common practice to examine their roots in spring or the early part of summer, and, removing the matted fibres, to put them into larger pots if necessary. As room is extremely valuable in limited greenhouses, it is desirable that the plants should be kept of a moderate size; and they are, therefore, rather to be under-potted than otherwise. Many of the free-growing plants require to be shifted again in August; at which period of the year, it is considered preferable to repot those which require to be disturbed only once a year. During the summer months, a great proportion of the inmates of the greenhouse are placed in the open air, on a spot paved or laid with ashes, to prevent the entrance of earth-worms into the pots, and not too much exposed to winds. Meanwhile, their place in the greenhouse is occupied by balsams and other tender annuals of a showy character. On the approach of winter the plants are again placed under cover. All that is necessary in the management of the greenhouse in winter, is to keep up a steady but very moderate temperature, to prcelude the access of damp by regular airing in mild dry weather, and to attend to moderate watering where it may be needed.

Of late years, particular genera of plants have come greatly into vogue, and it would be an omission not to notice some of them. Among the foremost may be mentioned Pelargonium, with its affinities. This beautiful tribe has varied nearly as rapidly as the Dahlia; to the discomposure of some botanists, whose scientific logic has been brought into jeopardy. Pelargoniums are of easy culture, propagating readily by cuttings, and requiring only to be shifted from time to time. Equal to these in point of beauty of colour, and certainly superior in elegance of form, is the family of Cape heaths, the Ericae of botanists. Of this genus there is said to be 600 species, considerably more than the half of which exist in our collections. Many heaths [7:11:687]may be raised from seed, which occasionally ripens in this country: the most common mode of propagation, however, is by cuttings, and this in some species is attended with difficulty. Heaths require a peaty soil, and attention in watering. For further information, we may refer to the excellent little treatise of Mr M‘Nab of the Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, whose success in this department is quite unrivalled, and in whose hands heaths attain a splendour which, we believe, they never reach in the environs of Table Mountain itself. The superb genus Camellia is the only other that particularly claims our attention. To the elegance of the finest evergreen it unites the beauty of the fairest rose. The Camellia, though a native of Japan, is not particularly tender, but from some peculiarities in its constitution, its culture requires a considerable degree of attention and care. Cuttings of the single red variety strike freely, and upon these as stocks, the finer sorts are grafted by marching or side-grafting; The soil generally employed is a mixture of peat and light loam. Care must be taken not to allow the roots to become matted in the pots. The young plants should be shifted at least once a year; when old, and in large tubs, once in two years will be sufficient. It is found beneficial to apply a certain degree of heat while the plants are growing, and till they form flower-buds for the following season. To have Camellias in perfection, a house with a span roof should be appropriated for their reception. There are some splendid collections of this noble plant in the nursery-gardens in the neighbourhood of London, particularly at Hackney, Vauxhall, and Clapton.

Conservatory Plants. — These are composed of a selection from the numerous inmates of the greenhouse. They should be naturally of an elegant form, capable in general of sustaining themselves, and somewhat hardy in their constitution. Many of the Australian plants, particularly the Acacias and Banksias, are well adapted for this purpose. The ascending Proteas of the Cape, Clcthra arborea of Madeira, and many others of a similar habit, may likewise take their place in this department. To these may be added a few of the hardier Heaths and Camellias, together with a Myrtle or two, double flowering Pomegranate, Camphor-laurel, Tea-tree, and some of the varieties of the magnificent and consecrated Rhododendron arboreum. Any wall in the interior of the house may be furnished with a trellis, and covered with such climbing plants as Lonicera Japonica, Cobbea scandens, Maurandia semperflorens and Barclayana, and the trailing Pelargoniums. In the management of the conservatory, abundant air should be admitted, and care should be taken not to draw the plants; that is, not to cause them to become too tall and spindle-formed by over-crowding. They should be so pruned as to keep them comparatively short and bushy; but after all pains have been taken, the sorrowful time at length arrives, when they either disfigure themselves by pressing against the glass, or must submit to the no less distorting process of a violent amputation, To meet such exigencies, it is recommended that, wherever there is also a greenhouse, a few plants should be kept in training for the conservatory, and substituted in the room of any that become unmanageable. After all, the fourth, fifth, and sixth, summers of the conservatory will always be the finest: and when a longer series of years have gone by, and the plants have outgrown the space allotted to them, perhaps the best thing that can be done is to change the whole interior of the house, plants, earth and all. If this operation be anticipated, and for a year or two prepared for, sufficiently large plants may be had in readiness, and the appearance of a well-furnished house be attained in one or two seasons. It is scarcely needful to add, that the neatness which is so desirable everywhere in the flower-garden is absolutely indispensable in the conservatory.

Stove Plants. — There are many beautiful plants, natives of tropical regions, which are cultivated in our stoves, but which, from the elevated temperature they require, can be only occasionally visited with pleasure. This may account for the fact that stoves are seldom found but in first-rate gardens, even where the price of fuel is inconsiderable. It is unnecessary to be minute respecting dry stove plants: their culture is precisely that of greenhouse plants, differing only in the degree of heat. Many dry stove plants are succulent, such as Cactus, Aloe and Mesembryanthemum, and of course require an arid soil, composed of a little light loam mixed with lime-rubbish or shivers. One of the most successful growers of the cacti was the late Mr Walter Henderson at Woodhall. The compost which he employed consisted of 1 part rotted dung, 1 rotted leaves, 1 heath mould, 1 ļ loam, and 1 coarse sand, all well mixed together; and the pot was nearly one-third filled with shreds, so as to form an effectual drain. Some of the species, such as Cactus speciosus and Cereus flagelliformis, arc improved, and made to flower more freely, by being kept growing vigorously in the greenhouse during summer. The bark stove plants thrive best in the tepid vapour peculiar to the equatorial climes. In order to furnish bottom heat, a bark pit is prepared, into which the pots or tubs are sunk; and the atmosphere is heated by flues, by steam, or, what is better, by a circulation of hot-water. Along the front glass, and on the back wall, are shelves on which pots may be arranged, according to the necessities of light and shade. On the front shelves are occasionally placed shallow troughs, filled with old tan, leaves, or decayed wood, for the reception of the air-plants and other epiphytes. Small cisterns too are introduced to contain tender aquatics. Along the rafters some of the more elegant species of Passiflora, such as P. quadrangularis, may be trained; and through the branches of some of the woody plants, Cuscuta, Tropaeolum, and other tender climbers, may be allowed to twine themselves. In the pit may be plunged some of the Palms, those princes of plants. In short, there is no end of those numerous tribes, “the potent sons of moisture and of heat,” with which the teeming regions of the equator are filled; and no suite of stoves in this country, however extensive, can come up to the wishes of the botanist. The management of this department of floriculture is laborious and trying to the constitution. A strong heat, both in the bark bed and in the atmosphere, must be maintained; the air must be kept charged with vapour, and the plants require frequent shifting and repotting. For more detailed information as to the management of particular stove plants, we may again refer to Cushing, who, in his Exotic Gardener, has treated this subject with a skill and fulness that have not been surpassed, perhaps not coualled, by any of his successors,

CALENDAR.

January. Kitchen Garden. — Sow early frame and Charlton pease in the beginning of the month, and dwarf marrowfats about the end of the month; early mazagan and longpod beans during the first and last weeks; onions, on very light soils; as also parsley, if not done in August, on a warm border; short-topped radish in two or three sowings·, at a week’s interval, in the same situation. In the last fortnight sow hardy green and brown Dutch lettuce.

Plant fruit trees, in general, in open weather, mulching the trees to protect them from the drought which may occur in spring. Plant shallot.

Prune all sorts of fruit trees in mild weather or in moderate frosts, nailing only in fine weather; wash those trees [7:11:688]infested with insects, with soap-suds, flowers of sulphur, and tobacco liquor.^[2. We have not deemed it necessary to treat separately, or at length, of the means of destroying insects; many of the nostrums recommended proving very inefficient. The wash here mentioned is perhaps the best and simplest for the stems and branches o wall fruit-trees. Some prefer making it of the consistence of paint, and laying it on with a brush. One advice we would tender to all gardeners,—not to be anxious to kill the smaller kinds of the feathered songsters, the soft-billed warblers of the garden, which are often suspected of attacking blossom or fruit, when they are only picking off caterpillars or aphides, their favourite food. In hothouses, the keeping of the walls and frame-work clean, by frequent white-washing and painting, is very important; and much benefit results from occasionally filling them with the smoke of tobacco-paper, and then thoroughly syringing. ] Forcing Department. — Prepare for making up hot-beds for early cucumbers and melons, at least where a pit heated with hot water is not in use. Sow salads, carrots, and kidney-beans on slight hot-beds. Sow pease in cold frames for transplanting. Force asparagus, sea-kale, and rhubarb, in hot-beds, in pits, in the mushroom-house, or in the open garden by covers surrounded with litter. Give air in fine weather, and water sparingly, to the pinery and cucumberpit; and to other forcing houses, according to the progress of the trees. Attend to the forced kidney-beans and strawberries. Give abundance of air to the greenhouse, conservatory, and alpine frame, but little water. Begin to force roses, kalmias, rhododendrons, &c., and hardy flowers and bulbs.

Flower Garden. — Plant dried tubers and bulbs of border flowers, if not done in autumn; but roots of the finer florists’ flowers ought to be deferred till next month.

Transplant herbaceous plants and evergreen shrubs in light soils, if not done in autumn; also deciduous trees, shrubs, and hedges. Lay edgings in fine weather.

Sow mignonette, stocks, &c., in pots; sow pease, and a few hardy annuals, on a warm border. Give stage auriculas and carnations abundance of air; but keep them rather dry, to prevent damping off.

February. Kitchen Garden.- —Sow beans and pease in the beginning and end of the month; a few early cabbages, to replace the last sowing in August; red cabbages and savoys in the last week. Sow also early horn carrot; Dutch turnip; onions for a full crop in light soils, with a few leeks. Sow chervil and fennel, and lettuce for succession, with radishes and round leaved spinach, twice in the course of the month; small salads every fortnight.

Plant Jerusalem artichokes, garlic, horse-radish, and early potatoes. All sorts of fruit trees may still be planted. Strawberries may be planted about the end of the month. Transplant for seed, if not done before, all the brassica tribe, including cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, &c.; also carrots, onions, beet, celery, endive, leeks, and parsneps. Transplant to the bottom of a south wall a few of the pease sown in November for the first crop.

Prune apricos, peaches, nectarines, and plums, before the buds be much swelled; also apples, pears, cherries, gooseberries, currants, and raspberries, before the end of the month. Finish the dressing of vines, keep the fruitroom free from spoiled fruit, and shut it close.

Forcing Department — Plant out melons and cucumbers on hot-beds and in pits, sowing more for succession. Sow carrots, turnips, and early celery; cauliflower, to be afterwards planted out. Plant early potatoes on slight hot-beds. Continue the forcing of asparagus, rhubarb, and sea-kale. Pine-apple plants require little air or water at this season, except young plants in dung-frames, which ought to be kept free from damp. Shift fruiting plants by the middle of the month, if not done in August. Continue the forcing of all sorts of fruits. Those who have not commenced sooner will find this one of the best seasons to begin. Be careful to protect the stems of vines that are outside of the forcing houses.

Let the greenhouse and conservatory have plenty of air in mild weather. Put in an extra quantity, if not done in autumn, of cuttings of Pelargoniums, Fuschsia, Salpiglossis, Calceolarias, Heliotropium, and Salvia splendens, for the flower garden. Sow stocks, a few tender annuals, and dahlia seed, on a slight hot-bed, or in pots.

Flower Garden. — In good weather plant dried roots, including most of the finer florists’ flowers; continue the transplanting of hardy biennial flowers, and herbaceous plants, shrubs, and deciduous trees.

Sow in the last week mignonette, and hardy annuals, in a warm border, for subsequent transplanting.

March. Kitchen Garden.— Sow main crops of pease, beans, cabbages, onions, leeks, carrots, parsneps, Brussels sprouts, borecoles, lettuces, and spinach. In the beginning, and also in the end of the month, sow turnips and savoys. In the last fortnight sow asparagus, cauliflower, sea-kale, cardoons, celery, and most of the culinary aromatics, as dill, fennel, parsley. Small salads should be sown every ten days.

Plant early potatoes in the first week, and a main crop during the last fortnight. Jerusalem artichokes, sea-kale, asparagus, and pease raised in frames, may now be planted. Full crops of cabbages should now be planted out, and cauliflowers under hand-glasses. Propagate by slips the various pot-herbs, as mint, sage, savory, tansy, &c.

Fruit Garden —Finish the planting and pruning of fruit trees before the middle of the month. Protect those coming into blossom. Begin grafting in the third week; dig and dress between the rows of gooseberries, currants, and other fruit trees, if not already done. Kill wasps when they first appear, for the death of every individual now is equal to the destruction of a colony in autumn.

Forcing Garden. — Proceed with the forcing of melons and cucumbers, giving air, and applying linings to maintain the proper temperatures. Examine pine-suckers and crowns, potting those that are kept in tan during the winter; repotting those that require large pots, and dressing the roots of such as are sickly; about the middle of the month, shift to the succession pit, and give a top-dressing to the fruiting plants; turn the tan, and add new bark to the pits, to keep up bottom heat. In the vinery and peach-house, attend to the keeping down of insects by watering; and promote the growth of the young shoots, by steaming in the evenings. Sow the seeds of capsicum and tomato.

Greenhouse. — More water may be given than formerly. Sow seeds of greenhouse and hot-house plants; also the different sorts of tender annuals; pot off those sown last month; shift greenhouse and stove plants; plant tuberoses in pots for forcing. Begin to propagate greenhouse plants by cuttings.

Flower Garden and Shrubbery. — In the last week, sow hardy annuals in the borders, with biennials that flower the first season; as also perennials. Plant anemone and ranunculus roots. Transplant from the nursery to their final sites annuals sown in autumn, with biennials and herbaceous plants Propagate perennials from root-slips and offsets. Protect tulips, hyacinths, and choice flowers, from severe weather. In the last week put into heat the finer sorts of dahlias, so as to spring them, and prepare them for propagation by [7:11:689]cuttings and by division of the roots. In the first week 'finish the planting of hardy deciduous tr^es and shrubs; evergreens by the middle; but some of the hardier sorts may still be planted towards the end of the month. Likewise finish the pruning of all deciduous trees and hedges as soon as possible. Attend to the dressing of shrubberies, laying of turf-edgings, and to the state of gravel walks.

April. Kitchen Garden. — Sow asparagus, sea-kale, beet, salsify, scorzonera, skirret, carrots, and onions on heavy soils; also pease, beans, turnips, spinach, celery, cabbages, savoys, and German greens, for succession. Sow broccoli and kidney beans both in the second and in the last week; and small salads should be sown twice or thrice during the month; also all sweet herbs, if not done last month.

Plant cauliflower, cabbages, sea-kale, lettuce; and finish the planting of the main crops of potatoes. Propagate all sorts of pot-herbs, and attend to the hoeing and thinning of spinach, onions, turnips, &c. Earth up cabbages, cauliflower, pease, beans, and early potatoes. Stake up pease; blanch sea-kale and rhubarb in the open air, by-covering with straw or leaves.

Fruit Trees — No pruning ought to be left undone till this period; stone fruits, in particular, are much injured by spring pruning. If vines have been neglected, rubbing off the buds that are not wanted is safer than pruning. Protect the finer sorts of fruit-trees on the walls.

Forcing.— Continue the preparation of succession beds and pits for cucumbers and melons. Sow gourds and basil. Pot love-apples and capsicums. Attend to the routine culture of the pinery, giving water and air when necessary. Keep up the bottom heat with linings and additions of new tan. In the forcing houses, from the variable state of the weather considerable vigilance is required in giving air. Keep down red spider (acarus) in the more advanced houses by frequent waterings. Continue the usual operations of disbudding and thinning of fruit, and take care to keep up the proper temperatures.

Greenhouse. — Still sow all sorts of tender annuals. Proceed with all necessary shiftings. Propagate rare and fine plants by cuttings or grafting. Pot off tender annuals, and cuttings of ^half-hardy greenhouse, plants put in in February for the use of the flower garden.

Flower Garden and Shrubbery Sow main or succes sion crops of annuals of all sorts; half hardy annuals in warm borders, or on slight hot-beds. Biennials and perennials should be sown before the middle of the month. Plant Tigridia pavonia and fine stocks. Finish the transplanting of herbaceous plants by the end of the first week. Protect stage auriculas and hyacinths from extremes of every description of weather; and tulips from hoarfrosts and heavy rains. Plant out tender deciduous trees and shrubs raised in pots. Remove part of the coverings of all tender shrubs and plants in the first week, and the remainder at the end of the month. Form and repair lawns and grass walks, by laying turf and sowing perennial grassseeds.

May. Kitchen Garden Sow small salads every week; radishes and lettuces thrice; spinach once a fortnight; carrots and onions for late drawing; kidney-beans in the first week and last fortnight. Pease and beans, cauliflowers, cabbages, Brussels sprouts, bore-cale, broccoli, savoys, and German greens, for late crops. Sow pumpkins and cucumbers on a warm border in the last week. Continue the various operations of hoeing and carthing up the different crops.

Fruit Trees. — Disbud peaches, nectarines, and other early trees against the walls; also attend to the thinning of fruit. Give occasional washings with the engine to keep down insects. Pick caterpillars from gooseberries and wall trees on their first appearance. Mulch, if not done before, all newly planted fruit trees, watering abundantly in dry weather. Remove from raspberries and strawberries all suckers and runners that are not wanted.

Forcing. — Plant melons, and cucumbers, and some basil, on the hot-beds prepared for vegetables in February, and now free. Plant out pumpkins on dung-ridges, under hand-glasses. Sow late crops of cucumbers and melons; attend to the various particulars in their culture, heat, air, water, shade, and insects. Go on with the usual culture of the pinery; give abundance of heat and water, keeping down all manner of insects.

Greenhouse. Turn out all hardy plants about the middle, and the more tender at the latter end of the month. Sow tender annuals for succession; potting and shifting all those sown at an earlier period. Pot off, likewise, all rooted cuttings. Put in cuttings of the different desirable species which are now fit for that purpose. Sow a few hardy annuals and ten-week stock, &c. for late crops.

Flower Garden — Sow annuals for succession; biennials in the last week, in the nursery compartment, for next year. Propagate by cuttings, dahlias, pansies, double wallflowers, rockets, scarlet lychnis, and lobelias, by dividing the roots. Plant out, during the first week, dahlias, hardy pelargoniums, stocks, and calceolarias, protecting the dahlias from slight frosts. By the middle and end of the month, masses of the following plants may be formed with safety: pelargonium, heliotropium, fuschsia, salpiglossis, niercm-bergia, salvia, verbena, bouγardia, erica, and lobelia. Protect tulips, ranunculuses, and anemones, from the mid-day sun, from rains, and winds. Remove the coverings from all tender plants in the open air.

Shrubbery — Planting out of tender evergreens from pots may be continued, but any other kind of transplanting will be carried on at considerable risk, except in very moist and cloudy weather. Proceed with the laying down of lawns and gravel-walks.

June. Kitchen Garden. — Sow pease and beans for late crops. The kinds used for early crops arc likewise best for this purpose. Sow salading every ten days; also carrots and onions for drawing young. In the beginning of the month sow endive for an early crop. In the first week sow turnips for succession; and in the third week for a full autumn crop. Scarlet and white runners for a late crop; cabbages for coleworts.

Plant full crops of broccoli, Brussels sprouts, savoys, German greens, and leeks; ridge out early celery, successional crops of cabbage and cauliflower. In the first fortnight of the month, plant cucumbers for pickling, in a warm border, placing hand-glasses over them. Pull and store winter onions.

Fruit-Trees Train and prune the summer shoots of all descriptions of wall and trellis trees. Standards do not require this, except those arc trained en pyramide or en quenouille. Mulch and water fruit-trees and strawberries in dry weather, desisting from watering as soon as the fruit begins to ripen. Net over cherry-trees, to protect the fŗuit from birds. Destroy insects by frequent washings, and directing tobacco-smoke against them, or by strewing snuff (or the fine powder of tobacco) over them. In the first week, plant out love-apples in vacant spaces along the bottom of a south wall.

Forcing and Greenhouse Department. Hot-beds and Pits. — Proceed with planting melons and cucumbers raised from seeds and cuttings, for late crops. Keep up, by [7:11:690]linings, the necessary temperatures for ripening of the fruits. Continue the cultivation of the pinery stated for last month; but, if you wish very large-sized fruit, and do not care about preserving suckers, remove the whole suck- ω γs from the stem and roots, and apply heat and water in abundance. Shift suckers and succession plants in the beginning and middle of the month, as the state of the plants may require.

Forcing-houses may have the same treatment as stated last month. Little water and a good deal of air must be given to those houses where the fruit is beginning to ripen. Those in which the fruit is past, ought to be constantly under a system of thorough ventilation.

The Greenhouse will now be occupied with tender greenhouse plants and annuals, and the more hardy plants from the stove, for here they will remain longer in flower. Shift, re-pot, and propagate all plants, fine perennials, biennials, or annuals, and cuttings of all sorts that are desirable. Sow fragrant or showy annuals, to flower in pots during winter.

Flower Garden. — Take up bulbs and tuberous roots, and dry them in the shade before you remove them to the store-room. Fill up with annuals‘and greenhouse plants those beds from which the bulbs and roots have been raised. After this season, keep always a reserve of annuals in pots, or planted on beds of thin layers of well-rotted hot-bed dung, from which they are easily removed with balls, to fill up any blanks which may occur in the border or parterre. Sow perennials, if neglected last month, to be planted out in the spring. Lay and pipe carnations and pinks in the end of the month.

July. Kitchen Garden — In the first week, sow pease for the last crop of the season. In the last week, sow yellow turnip for a full winter crop, and spinach for an early winter crop. Endive, for autumn and winter crops, in the beginning and end of the month; also snccessional crops of let-tuce and small salads.

Plant full crops of celery, celeriae, endive, about the middle and end of the month; late crops of broecoli, cauliflower, and coleworts, in the last week. Gather and dry medical and pot herbs; also propagate such by slips and cuttings.

Fruit-trees — Continue the summer pruning and training of all wall and espalier-rail trees, with the destruction of insects. Plant strawberries in pots, for forcing next winter. Propagate different sorts of fine fruit-trees, by budding on other trees, or on prepared stocks.

Forcing.-— Attend to the pruning of melons and cucumbers, giving air and water, renewing linings, &c. Go on with the usual cultivation of the pinery, but withhold water from the plants when the fruit begins to ripen. Have the old plants with suckers on them put into a brisk bottom-heat, giving proper supplies of water; this will increase their size very much, and materially shorten the period of their coming into fruit. The forcing-houses ought to have the same treatment as stated for last month.

In the Greenhouse, little alteration will take place in the culture and management from that given for last month; necessary attention being paid to potting, shifting, and putting in cuttings, and giving abundance of water to the potted plants, both in the house and out of doors.

Flower Garden and Shrubbery. —-Take up the remainder of tuberous roots, such as anemone, ranunculus, &c., finishing by the end of the first week; fill up their places, and any vacancies that may have occurred, with annuals from the reserve ground. Propagate herbaceous and other plants that have gone out of flower, by means of cuttings and slips; also roses and American shrubs, by laying, budding, or cuttings.· Go on with the laying and piping of carnations and pinks; attend to the staking and tying up of dahlias and strong herbaceous plants.

AUGUST.

In the Kitchen Garden, sow winter and spring spinach in the beginning and about the end of the month; parsley and winter onions, for a full crop, in the first week; cabbages, cauliflower, savoys, and German greens, about the middle of the month, for planting out in spring; lettuce in the first and last week; small salads occasionally; black, Spanish, red and white queen radish, for winter crops.

Plant and earth up celery and endive. A few coleworts may still be planted.

In the Fruit Garden, proceed in the training and regulation of summer shoots of all fruit trees as directed for the three last months. Mat up, in dry weather, gooseberry and currant bushes, to preserve the fruit till late in the autumn. Every exertion must now be used by the gardener to preserve the ripening fruits on the walls from insects, and to destroy wasp nests.

Forcing — The same routine of cultivation in hot-beds and pits may be proceeded in as stated for last month. Sow, and propagate by cuttings, in the beginning of the month, cucumbers, to be afterwards grown in hot water pits, or in boxes in the front of the pine-stove, for a winter crop. In the pinery most of the fruit will be cut by the middle of the month, when a general shifting of succession plants will take place; as also a potting of suckers; but these will be strengthened by being allowed to remain on the old plants until the end of this month. In the forcing-houses where the crops are past, part of the sashes may be removed, so as to permit thorough ventilation.

Greenhouse. — Attend to the propagation of all sorts of greenhouse plants by cuttings, and to the replacing in the greenhouse and stoves the more tender species, by the end of the month in ordinary seasons, but in wet weather in the second week. Sow half-hardy annuals, as Clarkia, Sehizanthus, Coreopsis, &c., to flower during winter.

Flower Garden and Shrubbery —Sow in the second and the last week, on a warm border of a light sandy soil, with an east aspect, for planting in spring, CÎarkia pulehella and elegans, Coreopsis tinetorea, Oenothera Lindleyana, and rosea-alba, Collinsia grandiflora, Schizanthus pinnatus, &c. Auricula and Primula seeds in pots and boxes. Propagate all sorts of herbaceous plants by rooted slips; lay chrysanthemums; take off layers of carnations, pinks, and pansies. Transplant evergreens in moist weather, about the end of the month; and propagate them by layers and cuttings.

September. Garden — Sow a few small salads for late crops; lettuce and spinach, if not done last month, for spring crops. Plant endive and lettuce. If broccoli be too strong or tall to withstand the winter, lift them and lay them nearly up to the neck in the earth. Lift onions, and lay them out to win on a dry border or gravel walk. Lift potatoes and store them.

Fruit Trees, &c Finish the summer pruning and train ing. Assist the maturing of the fruit, and, what is equally important, the ripening of the young wood for next year, of peaches and nectarines on hot walls, with fires during the day. Gather and lay up in the fruit-room with care the autumnal sorts of apples and pears. Plant strawberries for a main crop.

Forcing. — Take care that late crops of melons and cr. cumbers be not injured by damping, from getting too much water and too little air. In the pinery the usual routine of cultivation may be carried on; in the first week take off and pot all strong suckers, if not done in the middle of last [7:11:691]month; the remainder may be taken off at the end of the month, and planted in old tan in a frame or pit prepared for that purpose. In this way they will be found to keep much better over the winter, and to be better supplied with roots, than if they had been potted, which ought never to be done after this season. Expel damp, and assist the ripening of late crops of grapes and peaches, with fires during the day. Prune early vines and peaches.

Flower Garden, &c.—Sow in the beginning of this month all half-hardy annuals stated for last month, if not done at that time. Sow also the different species of primula; and the seeds of all such plants as, if sown in spring, seldom come up the same season, but if sown in September and October vegetate readily the succeeding spring. Continue the propagation of herbaceous plants, taking off the layers of carnations, pinks, pansies, and chrysanthemums, by the end of the month. Plant evergreens; lay and put in cuttings of most of the hard-wooded sorts of shrubby plants.

October. Kitchen Garden. — Sow small salads and radishes in the first week; Mazagan beans and early frame pease in the last week. If the w inter prove mild they will be somewhat earlier than those sown next month or in January.

Plant cabbages in beds or close rows till wanted in spring. Cauliflowers in the last week, to receive the protection of frames, or, at any rate, at the bottom of a high wall or hedge in a sheltered situation.

Store potatoes, beet, salsify, scorzonera, skirret, carrots, parsneps, by the end of the month.

Fruit Garden. — Such fruit trees as have dropped their leaves, may be transplanted. Protect fig-trees, if the weather prove frosty, as soon as they have cast their leaves. Cover late crops of grapes on hot walls with woollen nets or mats, to prevent injury from frost. Store and lay up very carefully during the month all sorts of apples and pears, the longest keeping sorts not before the end of the month, if the weather be mild. A part of them may be placed in a close cellar.

Forcing .— Assist hot-beds and pits with fresh linings, to keep up the declining heat of such beds as have not ripened off their crops. Give abundance of air in good weather. Gradually lower the heat of the pinery.

Dress vines and peaches; clean and repair the forcing houses and their flues.

Greenhouse. — Replace all sorts of greenhouse plants. Fill the pits with pots of stocks, mignonette, and hardy annuals for planting out in spring, along with many of the more hardy sorts of greenhouse plants. The whole ought co be thoroughly ventilated, except in frosty weather. Begin to force roses, hyacinths, and a few other bulbs, for winter and early spring decoration.

Flower Garden. — Sow a few pots of hardy annuals in a frame, or on a sheltered border, for spring use, as directed for August.

Plant the greater part of the common border bulbs about the end of the month, with a few anemonies for early flowering. Transplant strong plants of biennials and perennials to their final situations.

Protect alpine plants, stage auricules, and carnations with glass frames; half-hardy greenhouse plants, such as fuschsias, &c. about the end of the month, with coverings of broom or spruce-fir, preferring the latter. Takeup, dry, and store daĥlias and tigridia tubers in the end of the month; pot lobelias from the open borders.

Transplant all sorts of hardy evergreens and shrubs, especially in dry soils, giving abundance of water. Put in cuttings of all sorts of evergreens, &c.

• November. Kitchen Garden — Sow early from pease and mazagan beans, in the second week, for an early crop. Protect endive, celery, artichoke, seakale, with stable-litter or ferns; mulch asparagus with hot-bed dung; take up endive, late cauliflower, early broccoli, and lettuces, and lay them in an open shed, or in old cucumber and melon pits, which will protect them from frost, and afford a supply during winter. Force rhubarb and seakale in the open border, under boxes or cases, surrounded and covered with well-fermented stable dung. Plant all sorts of fruit trees in fine weather, giving an abundant supply of water to settle the earth about the roots. Commence and carry on the various operations of pruning and nailing when the weather may permit. Take off such late sorts of apples and pears as may remain on the trees, and lay them carefully past in the fruit-room; which place will require frequent examination, and the removal of all decayed fruit.

Forcing and Greenhouse —In hot-beds and pits keep up the requisite degree of heat by frequent additions to the linings. Cucumbers and pines, on hot-beds, will require more than ordinary attention, to prevent them damping off from too much moisture. Where a circulation of hot water in pipes is employed for heating, the necessary temperature and dryness are much more under the control of the gardener* Force asparagus, rhubarb, and seakale, in the mushroomhouse or pits.

In the forcing-houses, prune and train the trees; dig and dress the borders of such houses as have not been already done. Continue the forcing of roses, hyacinths, &c. The directions for the greenhouse and conservatory in January apply also to this month generally.

Flower Garden, <įc Plant dried tubers of border flowers, but the finer sorts had better be deferred till spring. Protect such half-hardy plants as were not sheltered last month. Plant deciduous trees and shrubs as long as the weather continues favourable. Dig and dress such flower borders and shrubberies as may now be cleared of annuals and the stems of herbaceous plants.

December. Kitchen and Fruit Garden. — Sow a few pease aħd beans, as in November. Very few operations can be carried on during this month, with the exception of trenching and digging in dry weather.

Plant all sorts of fruit trees in mild weather. Proceed with pruning and nailing wall-trees, whenever an opportunity occurs. Examine the fruit-room every week, removing the fruit found in a state of decay.

Forciĵig, Sįc. — The same degree of attention to hot-beds and pits will be necessary as in the last month. Continue the forcing of asparagus, rhubarb, and sea-kale, in pits and in the mushroom house.

Proceed with the usual routine of culture commenced last month, making the necessary preparations to begin forcing by the last week of this, or the first of next month.

Flower Garden, Ąc.—The directions for last month will be found equally applicable to this. Rake and sweep leaves from lawns and gravel-walks, repairing the latter as occasion may require.
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