GHAUTS. The term of Ghaut signifies originally a pass through the mountains, or the place where boats land. But it has been applied to designate the mountainous chains which run in a direction nearly north and south through southern India. These are divided into the Eastern and Western Ghauts. The eastern ridge commences in the south, to the north of the Cavery, in about latitude 11. 20. north, and extends, with little interruption, and nearly in a straight line, to the banks of the Kistnah, in latitude 16. north. The height of this ridge has never been accurately ascertained throughout its whole extent. It is estimated, however, to rise at its highest part, which is opposite Madras, to the height of 3000 feet; and Bangalore, which is within the chain, was found by barometrical observation to be 2900 feet above the level of the sea. Dr Buchanan, who had an excellent opportunity of observing the strata of these mountains, where the rock was cut away to form the road, describes their component parts to be granite, consisting of white felspar and quartz, with dark green mica, in a small proportion to the other two ingredients. The rocks appear to be stratified; but the strata are broken and confused. In some places they are almost horizontal, and in others vertical, with all intermediate degrees of inclination. The country above the Ghauts, about Naickan Eray, rises into swells like the land in many parts of England, and is overlooked by high barren peaks, which close the view to the eastward. The country is but poorly cultivated, and is far from populous. Dr Buchanan judged that not above one half of the country had been ploughed; and about a tenth part of the whole rises into hills too steep for the plough. The soil in the gently swelling ground is very poor, and covered with coppice, having a few large trees intermixed. The coppice land serves for pasture; and the bushes supply the natives with fuel. Reservoirs are constructed like those below the Ghauts; and the watered fields are productive in rice. The want of water, however, is the great drawback on agriculture throughout all the eastern parts of the Upper Carnatic. The mountains produce iron ore, which is washed down by the torrents, and, being found in the form of black sand, is smelted by the natives. Each forge pays a certain tribute in iron, for permission to carry on the work. These mountains abound in rude and magnificent scenery, and there is a number of passes through them, the principal of which are those leading to Seringapatam and Poonah. Many of these roads have been, formed with great labour across the mountains; but they are soon ploughed into inequalities by the mountain torrents, and are thus as rough as before. Among the lofty peaks of these mountains large tracts of barren land are to be found; the country is naked, and is not even clothed with forests. The hills next the Vellore road by Sautghur are covered with large stones, among which grow many small trees and shrubs, with occasionally a tamarind tree of great age and size. The pass here has been greatly improved, being widened and levelled since the conquest by the British; and is now practicable for artillery.

Ghauts, Western. This great chain of mountains runs along the peninsula of Hindustan, from Cape Comorin to the Tuptee or Surat river, at the distance of not more than sixty or seventy, and in some places not above forty miles from the western shore of the Indian peninsula, namely, the coasts of Malabar, Canara, &c.; and they are frequently visible from the sea, to which at one point they approach within six miles. By this peculiar configuration of the country all the great rivers of the peninsula of India run down the eastern slope of these mountains into the Bay of Bengal, there not being sufficient space for the collection of any great body of water on the western declivity, which is of greater elevation, and more abrupt in its ascent. The range is generally computed to rise to between 3000 and 4000 feet above the level of the sea-These mountains do not terminate in a point or promontory, but bend eastward in a wavy line parallel to the river, and are afterwards lost among the hills in the neighbourhood of Boorhanpoor. These hills extend about 800 miles in length, with the exception of a break in the ridge about sixteen miles wide, where the river Paniany takes its course from the Coimbetore country to the sea; and here it is well known that ships which navigate the Malabar coast during the north-east monsoons commonly experience a stronger gale in the neighbourhood of Paniany than elsewhere; a circumstance which Major Rennell ascribes to this opening in the Ghaut Mountains.^[1. Rennell, Memoir of a Map of Hindurtan, p. 196. ] The altitude of this mountain chain is sufficient to intercept the great body of the clouds which are alternately impelled across the continent of India by the south-west and north-east monsoons; and accordingly these winds occasion a rainy season on one side of the mountains only, so that while the periodical rains are deluging the country on one side, the weather is serene and dry on the other. But it is only a particular tract of country that is sheltered from rain by the ridge of the Ghauts; for the clouds do pass over, but at too great a height and too much attenuated to be condensed into rain. At a greater distance, however, they collect into masses, and occasion a rainy season in the countries farther to leeward. Thus, at Nagpoor, in the very centre of India, the seasons differ but little from their usual course in Bengal and on the western side of India. They have a rainy season occasioned by the south-west monsoon, though it is not so violent as in Bengal. At the mouth of the Godavery, and in the neighbourhood, the south-west monsoon occasions a rainy season, when the Godavery is swollen and overflows; and this country is about the same distance to leeward of the Ghauts as Nagpoor. Major Rennell suggests that the clouds which occasion the rainy season at the mouth of the Godavery may come from Cape Comorin, though from the prevalence of westerly[7:10:496] winds this appears doubtful. But it is certain that the clouds which bring rain at Nagpoor must pass over the Ghauts. Madras lies in the sheltered tract, though at least 300 miles to leeward of the Ghauts. The country near the mouth of the Godavery is about 200 miles more. It would be curious, if we had facts for such a speculation, to trace the limits between wet and dry, and thus to ascertain the influence which this elevated and extensive mountain chain exercises on the climate of the Indian peninsula; but without fuller and more minute information we can scarcely enter into such an inquiry.

The Western Ghauts, about the fifteenth degree of north latitude, although they are steep and stony, are by no means rugged or broken with rocks. On the contrary, in the country near Cutaki the stones are buried in a rich mould, and in many places are not visible until they are dug up. Thus, instead of the naked, sun-burnt, rocky peaks, so common in the eastern chain, these mountains are clothed with stately forests. Dr Buchanan mentions that he had nowhere seen finer trees, nor any bamboos that could be compared ‘to those he saw there. These bamboos compose a large part of the forest; they grow in detached clumps, with open spaces between, and equal in height to the most stately palms, which are also found in great abundance. There is no underwood nor creepers to interrupt the traveller who may choose to wander in any direction through these woods. But there are numerous tigers, which, joined to the unhealthiness of the climate, renders any long stay there uncomfortable. About midway up the mountain the teak becomes common; but it is very inferior in size to other trees. Hoads have been formed through these mountains with great labour, out of a bed of loose rock. These roads are ploughed up by torrents during the rainy season, which wash away their softer parts, and leave single rocks of four or five feet diameter standing in the centre. The difficulty formerly experienced in penetrating these mountain passes was very great. In 1791, when the Bombay army was advancing to the Mysore through the Poodicherrim pass, it required two days to draw up twenty light field-pieces two miles, and three weeks to bring up the other artillery to the top of the Ghauts.