BUENOS AYRES, The capital of the Argentine republic or united provinces of the Rio de la Plata, is situated in the province of Buenos Ayres, on the southern margin of the river Plata, in South America. This province is bounded on the north by the province of Sante Fè and the rivers Parana and La Plata, on the east by the La Plata and the Atlantic Ocean, on the west by the province of Santa Fè and the Indian territory, and on the south by the country of the Indians. This latter boundary, previous to 1822, was formed by the river Salado. The greatest diameter of the province, then consisting of about 200 miles, extended from the mouth of the Salado, at the bay of Samborombon, in south latitude 36°, in a north-westerly direction, to the Arroyo en Medio, which separates it from Santa Fĕ, in south latitude 33. 20.; the breadth of the province was estimated at about 70 miles; and the area included about 1518 square leagues.

In 1740 an imaginary line was drawn across the continent, in about 35° of south latitude, to the south of which the Indians were understood to confine themselves, and various forts were constructed for the defence of this frontier; but these limits appear to have been little respected by either party, since the Indians have been in the frequent practice of making incursions into the frontier provinces, and plundering their inhabitants, or interrupting the commercial intercourse maintained between the capital and the interior provinces situated along the eastern base of the Andes. The inhabitants of the provinces, and especially those of Buenos Ayres, have been gradually extending their estancias or breeding farms into the territory of the Indians south of the river Salado, and more especially on the sea-coast of the Atlantic. To render these possessions more secure, and to extend the jurisdiction of the government of Buenos Ayres, an attempt was made in 1822 to obtain, by purchase from the Indians, the cession of an extensive tract of land situated to the south of the Salado. The principal Indian caziques having assembled to meet the commissioner from the government of Buenos Ayres, consented to sell their lands, but were so exorbitant in their demands that the negociation failed, partly through the influence exercised by those tribes residing near the Andes and in Chili, who were less immediately interested in the sale of these lands. The failure of these laudable endeavours to accompliśh this object by amicable means has led to consequences injurious not only to the Indians, but to the industrious inhabitants of the province of Buenos Ayres. Both parties have had recourse to arms. The Indians have made repeated irruptions into the possessions of the latter, carrying off great quantities of cattle, and committing other atrocities. The government of Buenos Ayres, on the other hand, has sent various expeditions into their country; built fortresses; and established military posts at Laguna Blanca, Cruz de Guerra, Federa-cion, and other places, on an advanced frontier, extending nearly to the 38th degree of south latitude, and formed in part by the insulated ranges of mountains known by the names of Las Sierras del Volcan, del Tandil, and de la Ventana. Along the coast of the Atlantic they possess establishments still farther to the south; the foundation of a new city, called New Buenos Ayres, was laid in 1827, in an eligible situation to the north of the mouth of the river Colorado, which enters the Atlantic in latitude 39. 40. S.; and they have long possessed a fortress and agricultural settlement near the mouth of the Rio Negro de Patagones, called El Carmen de Patagones, with which Buenos Ayres has hitherto communicated only by sea; but measures have been taken to establish a more direct communication by land with these dependencies. It is evidently the intention of the government of Buenos Ayres to extend their frontiers to one or other of these rivers; an undertaking of great importance, as it will not only afford protection to the numerous industrious settlers established to the south of Buenos Ayres, by forming a defensible and well-defined frontier, but will open up an extensive line of water communication with the interior, and facilitate the conveyance of the valuable agricultural products of the fertile provinces which extend along the eastern base of the Andes.

This extensive territory, south of the river Salado, which has in'this manner been added to the province of Buenos Ayres, possesses a fine climate and very fertile soil. It is considered as still better adapted for agricultural purposes than that around Buenos Ayres, especially for the cultivation of wheat, which is produced there in great abundance, and with more certainty than at the latter place. The number of estancias already formed in this territory is very considerable, having reached the Sierras del Volcan and Tandil, and they are yearly augmenting in number and importance; only requiring the fostering care of a paternal government, and protection from the incursions of the Indians, to insure their prosperity. Now that the civil dissensions have terminated, it is expected that the inhabitants of the provinces which are in contact with the Indian territory to the south will unite in the important undertaking of forming a well-arranged frontier, connected by fortifications; previously obtaining the consent of the Indians by purchase and other conciliatory means, before having recourse to the force of arms.

The whole extent of the province of Buenos Ayres forms one continuous and unbroken plain, of great fertility, and covered with perpetual verdure. Proceeding from the city upwards along the margin of the river Plata, the ground is somewhat more elevated than the surrounding country; but to the westward the same level surface extends across the Pampas, until it reaches the confines of the province of Cordova, where the country gradually rises in elevation as it approaches the base of the mountainous range of Cordova. To the south and south-east the country presents the same monotonous appearance, unless where interrupted by some inconsiderable elevations near the origin of the river Salado, and farther south by the insulated range of mountains already mentioned, called Tandil, Volcan, and La Ventana.

Throughout this territory, especially towards the south, and in the vicinity of the river Salado, there is a considerable[7:5:640] number of lakes, to many of which that river forms an outlet. Some of these are very shallow, and are ' only filled with water during the rainy season, at which times also considerable tracts of country become so much inundated that they cannot be passed except on horseback. On the approach of summer, and when exposed to the powerful influence of the sun, the evaporation is so great that these inundations and many of the lakes disappear, leaving the country in a very dry and parched condition, and very deficient in the necessary supplies of water.

To this great equality of surface may be attributed the very few rivers, even of moderate size, which are to be found in such an extent of country. They are in general easily forded, unless when swelled by long-continued rains. The small river called Riachuelo, or the Narrow River, which joins the river Plata about a mile to the south of the city of Buenos Ayres, affords a good example of their size. Near its mouth it is not above thirty yards in breadth, and has a depth of water not exceeding two fathoms; consequently it does not admit even moderate-sized vessels, but affords an excellent haven for small vessels and lighters, employed in the landing of goods and the embarkation of produce.

The Rio Salado, which is the largest of these rivers, rises on the confines of the Pampas to the south of the fort of Melincue; runs in a south-easterly direction, being connected in its course with a considerable number of lakes; and enters the Atlantic at the Ensenada de Samborombon, near the mouth of the river Plata. At twelve leagues from its mouth it is about 600 feet in breadth, and so deep that passengers require to be ferried over. The importance of this river was unknown until the late war with the Brazils, when, in consequence of the strict blockade of the port of Buenos Ayres by the Brazilian squadron, all access to the country by the ordinary channels was cut off. The inhabitants were compelled by necessity to find out other avenues by which to communicate with the sea; and as, on examination, the mouth of the river Salado was found to be well adapted for the admission of shipping, it became during the war the principal rendezvous for the Argentine privateers, their prizes, and other vessels; a circumstance which for a time gave a new aspect to that part of the country. But much inconvenience was experienced in carrying on the traffic thus created, from the want of good roads. The discovery of so good a port for small vessels at the entrance of the river Plata will, however, prove of importance to this part of the country, when the population has been augmented, and greater advances have been made in agricultural industry, for which the district in question is peculiarly well adapted. A number of small rivers rise in the hilly country near the Sierras del Volcan and Tandil, and run into the Atlantic.

Ί he Ensenada de Barragon, distant about thirty-six miles to the south-east of Buenos Ayres, forms a safe and commodious anchorage for shipping, which is well protected from the prevailing winds; but it is not much frequented except by vessels engaged in the mule trade, or requiring to be careened. The province contains various thriving and populous towns and villages, among which may be enumerated San Jose de Flores, San Isidro, Quil-ιnes, Las Conchas, Luxan, Chascomus, San Pedro, San Nicoas de los Arroyos, and others. The latter, San Nicoas, which is situated at the north-western extremity of the province, on the margin of the river Parana, is likely to become a commercial station of much importance, from its vicinity to the Rio Tercero, and its favourable position for communication with the provinces of Cordova and of Cuyo.

The level surface which so uniformly characterizes the whole' province of Buenos Ayres affords little scope for variety in its vegetable productions; still the aspect of the country is marked by many striking peculiarities. Dif-. ferent kinds of clover and other leguminous plants, intermixed with grasses, constitute the great mass of the vegetation; give to the country its verdant appearance; and form an inexhaustible source of nutriment, not only to the deer and Other wild animals which are so abundant, but to the numerous herds of cattle and horses which may be seen grazing in all directions.

The country is naturally destitute of wood, and, with the exception of an occasional natural copse of the tala shrub, of very inconsiderable height, nothing resembling trees is to be seen. The ombu (Phytolacca dioeca), however, sometimes makes its appearance, to diversify the scene and relieve its monotony. Trees of this kind generally point out to the traveller the site of some habitation, near which they are usually planted; since, from the great rapidity of their growth, they soon become conspicuous at a distance, and afford a grateful shade to the inhabitants diu ’ ing the hot season of the year. They are otherwise very useless, on account of the spongy nature of the trunk, which is so soft that it has sometimes been used as wadding for artillery during the wars which prevailed in the country.

In the more cultivated districts of the province, and especially in the neighbourhood of the city, numerous plantations are met with of peach trees, which are cultivated for fire-wood, and form a very profitable investment of land and capital, as they grow with great luxuriance, and may be cut down every four years; so that by dividing a plantation equally, a fourth part may be cut down yearly, which is sure to meet with a ready sale, being the principal fire-wood used in Buenos Ayres. The fruit, which is produced in great abundance in such plantations, is applied to no useful purpose except the feeding of pigs and poultry.

The immense forests of thistles which spring up at certain seasons of the year tend more to diversify the scenery of this country than any other cause. These consist of two species, well known in Europe, but principally of the cardoon (Cynara Cardunculv s'y and have both in all probability been introduced from Europe. Having met with a soil and climate congenial to their nature, they have extended themselves over an immense tract of country, in some directions upwards of one hundred miles; and they are in such abundance, and so vigorous in their growth, as to exceed in height the tallest man mounted on horseback, and to form an apparently impenetrable thicket on each side of the road. This scene may be witnessed in its greatest perfection during the early months of summer, more especially in November; and contrasted with the same country during the winter season, when the whole has disappeared from the surface of the earth, it conveys to the mind a striking instance of the luxuriant vegetation of the country. When young and tender, these thistles constitute a favourite article of food for cattle, which form numerous and devious paths in the thickets when in search of food at a later period of the season. Along these they are easily traced by the practised eye of the gaucho i who fearlessly rides along, his body and limbs being protected from injury by means of a portion of dried bullock’s hide, judiciously placed before him, and extending a little way on each side of the horse. These thickets have on some occasions been used as a place of concealment by such as lay in wait to attack the unwary traveller, and have occasionally been employed in aid of military operations during the civil dissensions which have so frequently prevailed in these countries since their separation[7:5:641] from the dominion of Spain. In autumn the same scenery assumes a desolate appearance, as the thistles are then withered and drooping, and become so dry, that if by any accident they catch fire, and a breeze of wind prevails, the conflagration spreads with such rapidity in all directions as occasionally to destroy much agricultural produce, and great numbers of cattle and other animals who are unable to escape. In the neighbourhood of the city at this season they are cut down in great quantities, and sold for the purpose of heating ovens. The florets of this thistle are in common use in the country for the purpose of coagulating milk, which they accomplish in the same manner as rennet. A quantity of these florets is tied up in a rag and stirred about in warm milk for a few minutes. This thistle is also used as a vegetable at table. The tender footstalks of the leaves, and the young stems, when boiled and the outer skin removed, have the flavour of artichokes.

Deer are so abundant in those parts of the country which are least inhabited, that some hundreds may occasionally be seen at the same time along the horizon; but they are not much molested, as their flesh is of little value in a country where good beef is so abundant. The bisea-clios are very numerous in the province of Buenos Ayres. This animal resembles a rabbit in appearance and habit, but is somewhat larger. Biscachos burrow in the ground, and have numerous openings to their subterranean abodes, where they remain concealed during the day-time; but they sally out at night and devour-great quantities of grass, corn, and green crops. Their holes, which are numerous, and covered over with grass and herbage, are dangerous to those riding on horseback, and occasionally give rise to accidents. They may be seen in considerable numbers at the mouths of their holes about sunset, and are caught in traps, or by inundating their dwellings, which obliges them to issue out, when they are easily killed. Their flesh is considered as good eating. Various species of armadillos are found in the provinces, where they are distinguished by the names of quirquincho, mataco, and mulito. T hey are easily caught when found sleeping in the sun, and are much prized as an article of food when roasted in their shell. The zοτrino, which is not unfrequently met with, is about the size of a rabbit, of a chestnut colour, and marked on each side by two white lines. Its appearance is handsome, but when attacked or molested it ejects with considerable force a liquid possessing an odour so intolerable, that its vicinity is dreaded by man, and every animal who has once experienced its effects. This serves it as a powerful means of defence against every enemy. If caught and suspended by the tail, it is deprived of the power of emitting this fluid, which is contained in a bag at the root of the tail.

The South American ostrich or nandu {Struthio Phea) is met with in considerable abundance on the Pampas, usually in coveys of twenty or thirty in number, gliding rapidly along the plain. These birds are hunted by the natives on horseback at full speed, and are caught by means of the holas, formed of three balls or round stones, covered with hide, and united to one common centre by thongs, each a fathom in length. After acquiring an impetus by whirling them round the head, the gauchos throw them with such dexterity that the bird seldom escapes. The young are easily domesticated, but become troublesome from their propensity to swallow money, or any thing metallic which they can find. Their food in the natural state consists of seeds, herbs, and insects. When young, their flesh is considered as palatable. They lay a number of eggs in one nest, which is lined with dry grass, and not always in very concealed situations. They seem to have an exact knowledge of the number of their eggs, as any attempt to diminish or increase their number, or even to handle them, inevitably leads to the destruction of the whole, and the desertion of the nest. As a proof of their provident care for their young brood, it is affirmed that the parents roll several eggs to a little distance from their nest, and break the shell, so that they become filled with maggots and insects, which supply suitable food for their young brood on coming forth. The male bird takes charge of rearing the young brood, which he performs with great attention. When two male ostriches thus employed meet each other, they fight for the supremac} r , the victor in the combat usually carrying off the two broods.

The country abounds in game of various descriptions, especially wild ducks, pigeons, partridges, and quails: the latter are so stupid as to allow themselves to be caught with little trouble, by means of a noose fastened to the end of a cane; or by riding round them in the form of a circle, they may be gradually approached so close as to be killed by the stroke of the rider’s whip. They are exceedingly abundant, and being easily caught, are much used as an article of food. On the banks of the rivers and lakes are found great abundance of water-fowl; and in moist places a bird closely resembling the lapwing of Europe in appearance and habit, but having a spine of nearly an inch long projecting forward from each shoulder, and serving it as a powerful weapon of offence. Venomous reptiles are rarely or never met with in this province; and the inhabitants are exempt from the annoyance of those numerous insects which abound so much in the provinces farther to the north. Mosquitos, however, occasionally occur at certain seasons of the year, and in low damp situations. Fleas are also abundant where sufficient attention has not been paid to ventilation and cleanliness.

Bones of the megatherion, and other extinct animals, have been discovered in the alluvial soil of the province of Buenos Ayres. One of the most perfect specimens of the bones of this animal was found on the banks of the river Luxan, fifteen leagues from Buenos Ayres, when forming some excavations, in the year 1789. It was removed entire to Spain, and is now in the cabinet at Madrid. More recently a tooth of the same animal was discovered near Areco, about sixteen leagues farther west; and only a few years ago various bones of a similar description were found near Los Desmochados, on the south side of the river Tercero. Three skeletons of the mastodon were recently discovered to the south of the river Salado, by Mr Woodbine Parish, his Britannic majesty’s late consul-general at Buenos Ayres; and one of these skeletons, in nearly a complete state, has lately been brought to England by that gentleman. The circumstance of these organic remains having been found in a shell somewhat resembling that of the tortoise, gives much additional interest to this discovery. Occurrences such as these lead to the conclusion that in former times these tribes of animals have existed in considerable numbers on these alluvial plains; and many similar discoveries may be anticipated in future.

The mineral productions of this country possess very little interest. A rock or a stone is scarcely anywhere to be seen throughout the province. Some gypsum has been found in the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres, and lime in several parts of the country. Such stones as are required for paving the streets, or in building, are brought from the island of Martin Garcia, at the mouth of the Uruguay, or as ballast from Europe. Many of the lakes to the south of Buenos Ayres are strongly impregnated with salt, and hence is derived the name and quality of the water of the river Salado. Salt, however, exists in greatest abundance and purity at Las Lagunas de las Salinas, situated in lat. 37. 0. S. in a south-west direction from the city, and not [7:5:642]far distant from the mountains called La Sierra de la Ventana. At these lakes, when the evaporation has been considerable, salt is procured in great quantities; and to obtain supplies of this article, considerable numbers of Indians and Creoles are attracted at certain periods; but owing to the distance and expense of land-carriage, little of it reaches Buenos Ayres, as it can be obtained cheaper from England, and of a superior quality.

The climate of Buenos Ayres, as its name indicates, is excellent and salubrious, being by its situation equally removed from the extremes of heat and cold. In general, the atmosphere is clear and the sky unclouded.

Meteorological Observations in Buenos Ayres during 1822.
[table]

The preceding table indicates the state of the weather during the year 1822, and is given as the most complete which can be obtained, although it does not denote the extremes of heat and cold which occasionally take place during other years, and appears to have included a greater proportion of rainy days than usually occur. In January 1823 the thermometer rose as high as 94°, and in February and March following to 93°; and during the winter months of 1820 it often fell to the freezing point, and thin crusts of ice were formed on the shallow pools around the city. The mean temperature of 1822 was 62° ∙30 of Fahrenheit, and the mean height of the barometer for eleven months 29-67 inches, showing the elevation of the city above the level of the sea to be about 300 feet. The north and north-east winds, especially the former, which sweep over the low and wooded country of Entre Rios and the other districts extending along the margins of the rivers Parana, Uruguay, and their tributaries, are generally loaded with moisture, and succeeded by heavy rains. When the winds have prevailed for some time, and before the rains fall, the atmosphere generally becomes so clear and transparent that objects may be seen distinctly at a great distance. During its continuance the moisture of the atmosphere materially affects the health and feelings of the inhabitants. The pamperos, or south-west winds, which traverse a comparatively dry tract of country, are by far the most agreeable and wholesome which prevail in this country; and from this quarter the winds sometimes blow with very great violence. During the summer months a refreshing breeze arises periodically every evening from the river to the eastward, and is evidently produced by causes similar to those which operate in equatorial regions. Storms of thunder and lightning occasionally prevail at Buenos Ayres, and are sometimes very violent and terrific. A remarkable change, indeed, has of late taken place in the climate of Buenos Ayres, for since 1829 it has rained so very little as materially to disappoint the hopes of the husbandman and the breeder of cattle. In the early part of 1832 the drought had reached to such a height as to convert the whole province into one continued bleak and dreary desert, and to produce phenomena which had never before been witnessed even by the old est inhabitants. On some recent occasions such densi clouds of dust have been raised by the winds, as to obscurt the rays of the sun completely at mid-day, and envelop« the inhabitants in almost total darkness. When the rain: at length commenced in March, the water in its passage through the air intermingled so completely with the dusl suspended in the clouds through which it fell, as to descend in the form of showers of mud, and on some occasions gave to the white exterior of the houses the appearance of having been plastered over with earth. Many flocks of sheep were smothered on these occasions by the dust, in a similar manner as in the snow-storms which occur in the mountains of Scotland.

As an evidence of the healthiness of this climate may be adduced the frequent instances of longevity which occur. Epidemic diseases are of rare occurrence, and there are few complaints arising from local causes. Consumption, pulmonary affections, and inflammatory complaints, are those which principally prevail. In the country the inhabitants enjoy almost uninterrupted good health. The ravages of small-pox, formerly very destructive in this country, have been arrested by the introduction of vaccination, for which an institution has been established under the direction of Dr Segurola, whose exertions in the cause of humanity are well known and appreciated by his countrymen. The benefits of this institution have been widely extended all over these provinces, and vaccination ha⅛ been introduced to a considerable extent among the Indians to the south.

The city of Buenos Ayres, or, as it was formerly caked, Nuestra Señora de Buenos Ayres, was founded in 1535, by’ Don Pedro de Mendoza, and so named in consequence o the great salubrity and purity of the air. It is situated on the southern margin of the river Plata, on a rising groun elevated about thirty-five feet above the surface of' t e river, and in long. 58. 23. 34. W. and lat. 34. 36. 29. ∙ from Greenwich. It is distant· ten leagues from Colonia, situated on the Banda Oriental, at the opposite side o the river, and seventy-two leagues from Cape Santa ria, at the mouth of the river Plata.
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The city is seen to advantage from the river, its site being somewhat more elevated than the surrounding country. It occupies a considerable extent of ground, being in its longest diameter, which runs parallel with the river, about two miles, and in breadth about a mile and a half. All the streets cross at right angles, and at regular intervals of about 150 yards from each other; and they are of moderate breadth, with pavement on each side, and hollow in the middle. They were formerly very ill kept, and with numerous pantanos or quagmires, especially near the outskirts of the town; but since the establishment of an efficient and well-regulated police in 1821, these defects have in a great measure been removed, and the streets well cleaned. Most of the principal streets have been well paved and lighted. They have all been systematically named, and the houses are regularly numbered. A street patrol has been formed, whose duty it is to repress irregularities, which were formerly so frequent, and to preserve order and tranquillity. It is only in the more central parts of the city that the houses are built adjoining to each other, so that the four sides of the square form a continuous line of houses, no access being obtained to the interior of the square excepting through the houses. Formerly they were almost all flat roofed, with a parapet before and behind, and afforded, by means of these azoteas, a ready communication between the inhabitants of the square, without their persons being exposed to the view of those passing along the streets. From this circumstance originated that singular and efficient mode of defensive warfare which was first practised in Buenos Ayres, and has recently developed itself so successfully in Europe; every successive square of buildings thus forming a formidable line of defence to the entrance of an invading force, and the defenders being able to take aim at the assailants with little exposure of their bodies. Hence the very unequal contest, and the great loss of life, which attended the attempt of the British troops under General Whitelocke to take the city by storm. More recently the form of the houses has been somewhat altered, by the addition of altos or upper stories, balconies, and various other architectural improvements. The houses were formerly all built of mud; but one of the jesuits introduced the practice of employing bricks and lime, which is that now generally in use, excepting in the houses of the lower classes towards the outskirts of the city. The walls formed of brick and lime are plastered outside with stucco or cerhent, and whitened.

The entrance to every house is by a large massive gate, which leads to a square court or patio, round which are situated the various apartments with which it communicates. It is usually paved with brick, and has generally formed underneath a large cistern or algive, in which the rain water is collected from the court and tops of the houses, and preserved for the use of the family. The sides of the court and front of the balconies are frequently ornamented with vines or other climbing and odoriferous plants. I he air plants (Tillandsia), of which several very beautiful kinds are natives of this country, are also used to ornament dwelling-houses; and when in flower they have a very brilliant appearance, and excite additional interest from the peculiarities of their nature, requiring no other nourishment than what they receive from the atmosphere, 2nd demanding no further care than that of attaching them to the iron railings of the windows.

That part of the house which is situated on each side of the entrance is commonly used for shops or warehouses, and those apartments communicating with the court as public rooms, the bed rooms being situated in the altos, or around a second court or patio, to which there is a passage leading from the first. Beyond these are situated the servants’ apartments, the kitchen, offices, stable, and sometimes a small garden.

The windows, which look into the court or the street, are large, occupying nearly the whole height of the apartment, and are secured from intrusion by perpendicular bars of iron, fitted in a frame so as to occupy its whole extent; a precaution necessary to secure the interior of the houses, as it is customary to throw open the casements to admit the cool air of the mornings and evenings; while the seats inside form the usual resort of the female inmates during their hours of relaxation, and when disposed to see and be seen by those passing along.

The interior of the houses is much better calculated for the warm season of summer than for the winter. The apartments are large and spacious, but somewhat gloomy, from the deficiency of windows and ornaments, the walls being generally white-washed; while the floors are formed of tiljes, bricks, or more recently of wood. They are damp and cold in winter, from the defective ventilation and the want of chimneys, against which strong prejudices long existed. The only substitute used was a large brasero or chafing-dish, of a circular form, placed in a wooden frame on the floor, and filled with burning charcoal, round which the inmates assembled; but unless the doors were kept a little open to allow the escape of the noxious air which was generated, it proved most injurious to the health of those exposed to its influence. The example of the English, who introduced chimneys into their houses, and the superior comfort and healthiness which they enjoy in consequence, has materially tended to remove the existing prejudices; and consequently the houses of the natives are now also, for the most part, provided with chimneys. The interior arrangement of their houses has also been greatly improved in other respects; and they are now commonly, furnished in the English or French style, and in every respect are more comfortable than formerly.

There are about ten public squares or plazas in the city of Buenos Ayres, some of which are of small dimensions, and principally in use as market-places. The largest, which is of considerable size, is situated opposite to the fort, and is divided into two unequal parts by the Alcova, a long building extending from one side to the other, and containing a range of small shops, with a corridor on each side, affording shelter to the public and the market people. That part of the square which is next to the fort is used as the principal public market. The other division, which is by far the largest, and is named Plaza de la Victoria, forms the principal parade for exercising troops, and. for the celebration of religious and national festivals. In its centre is placed a pyramid to commemorate the revolution, having an emblematic figure at each of its four corners, indicative of Justice, Science, Liberty, and America, the whole being inclosed by a light railing. On the west side of the plaza, opposite to the Alcova, is situated the town-house or Cabildo, a large and fine edifice, in which are held the different courts of justice, the meetings of the municipality, the police establishment, and the various offices belonging to these departments.

The cathedral is situated on x the south side of the plaza, and, although not finished according to the original design, it occupies an extensive space of ground. It possesses considerable claims to architectural beauty, and its interior is adorned with somelarge scriptural pain tings. Ί he other churches, which principally merit attention for their architecture and extent, are those of San Francisco, La Merced, Santo Domingo, and San Nicoas; besides which there are various churches, in all about fifteen, throughout the city. The university, which is situated in the vicinity of the principal square, was built by and for the use of the Jesuits when established in the country, and is one of the [7:5:644]most substantial public buildings in the city. Within these few years an episcopal chapel has been built by the British residents, forming a new and interesting object in this part of the world. _

The theatre, which is much frequented both by natives and foreigners, is of mean exterior appearance, but of considerable size. Besides the Spanish plays and farces performed here, there are frequent Italian operas, which are generally well represented, and seem very congenial to the public taste. A mint has been recently formed in Buenos Ayres, and is situated in the Consulado, near the plaza. The machinery has been erected under the able superintendence of Mr Miers, and is so complete in all its details as to be highly creditable to all concerned. The political state of this country since its completion has, however, been such as to prevent this establishment from being used for its original purposes.

The post-office is under the charge of a director, and is managed with regularity, but is very defective in some of its details. The mails are conveyed by riders on horseback, and with considerable dispatch and regularity; being sent weekly to Chili by way of San Luis and Mendoza, and to Bolivia by the route of Cordova, Tucuman, and Salta. On the arrival of letters from any place, a list is made out of the whole; and any one applying for the letters receives them on paying the postage; a practice which often leads to the loss of letters, and other numerous inconveniencies.

The fort, which is opposite the Alcova, is situated on the banks of the river Plata, and in front of the centre of the city. It is built of stone, and is of considerable strength, being well mounted with cannon, but can never be of much importance as a fortification, since no vessel of war can approach within gunshot of it; and the cannon are therefore only useful for firing salutes. It has a small garrison, and contains apartments for the president and his ministers, and the various public offices connected with the government.

In the neighbourhood of the fort there was recently a pier or wharf, used for landing passengers. It was built of stone and earth, the former brought from Martin Garcia, and cost the Spanish government half a million of dollars; but it was of so little use even in landing from boats, except when the river was full, that it has been allowed to fall into decay, and has now almost wholly disappeared. The usual mode of landing goods and passengers is by carts with high wheels, which are in constant attendance; and sometimes, when the river is low, they have to proceed a quarter of a mile into the water before reaching the boat, owing to the shallowness of the river.

The level space which intervenes between the margin of the river and the more elevated ground on which the city is placed, rises very little above the level of the river. At the end nearest the fort is situated the Alameda, or public promenade, along which are planted rows of Lombardy poplars. To this place the citizens resort in the evenings and on holidays; but, as a place of recreation, it is very inadequate to the wants of so large and populous a city. Various improvements are now, however, in progress, and a subscription has been raised by the inhabitants to inclose the whole with a handsome iron railing. The banks of the river to a considerable extent, where they are covered with green sward, arc usually occupied by females employed in washing and drying their clothes; and numerous parties of bathers may be seen during the summer months enjoying the refreshing influence of rhe waters of the river. The further extremity of this track often presents a busy and animated scene, being the resort, on their arrival and departure, of the numerous troops of waggons which carry on the traffic with the interior provinces. On the rising ground in this neigh bourhood is situated the British Protestant cemetery. Proceeding to the south-east along the margin of the river, the Riachuelo presents itself, having a circular basin at its mouth, in which are received small vessels and lighters; and in its neighbourhood are situated the Saladeros, and other establishments for slaughtering cattle, and preparing for exportation the various productions of the country. Before reaching this rivulet, the elevated bank on which the city stands has terminated.

The markets are abundantly supplied with provisions, such as beef, mutton, pork, poultry, and game of various kinds, and so moderate in price, that excellent beef and mutton may be purchased at one halfpenny per pound; and pork, veal, and lamb, at from one penny to three halfpence per pound. Fish are also obtained in great abundance, at a moderate price and of good quality. They are necessarily all fresh-water fish, and consist principally of Coe pexerrey or king’s fish, the dorado, the hagre, lisa, and a variety of others. Vegetables are good and plentiful, but expensive, excepting pumpkins and Indian corn, both of which are cheap, and much used for culinary purposes. Fruit, with some exceptions, is not obtained in such variety, or of so good a quality, as the climate is calculated to produce if its cultivation were more carefully attended to. Melons, musk-melons, sandias or water-melons, oranges, lemons, figs, pomegranates, and quinces, are the best and most abundant. Peaches are in immense abundance, but of inferior quality, as their cultivation is but little attended to. Potatoes do not seem to thrive in so tenacious a soil, and are often imported from England. All the vegetables and fruit produced here, with few exceptions, appear very susceptible of improvement, and many additional kinds will be introduced as industry advances. The vine answers very well, but has hitherto been cultivated only in gardens to a very limited extent. Milk is carried about in jars by boys on horseback, and is expensive, considering the abundance and cheapness of cows; but the dairy has been little attended to in this country, excepting by the foreigners settled there, who almost monopolize the manufacture of butter and cheese, which they sell at high prices. Bread is also an expensive article of consumption.

Water for culinary and domestic purposes forms an expensive article of housekeeping, as every family which has not in the house a cistern of rain water is obliged to purchase water from the river Plata, brought in carts to all parts of the city, and sold at about threepence a barrel of four gallons. The carts formerly employed for this purpose were of a large and clumsy construction, but they have been greatly improved of late by the foreigners settled there, some of whom have engaged in this lucrative occupation. The water obtained in this country from wells, which are necessarily very deep, is of an inferior quality, and unfit for washing or other domestic purposes, in consequence of being impregnated with saline or calcareous matter from the subsoil or tosea ; consequently a plentiful supply of good water is a great desideratum m this city. An attempt was made in 1824 to obtain supplies of this necessary article by boring, and an engineer was brought from England with the requisite machinery for this purpose. It was tried principally at the Retirο, the most elevated ground in the vicinity of the city; but after penetrating a hundred and seventy-five feet into the earth, and expending considerable sums of money, t∙ ιe undertaking was abandoned, because, much to the disappointment of the government and the inhabitants, no water had been obtained. It does not, however, appear so very difficult an undertaking to obtain a plentiful supply °fθ x ' cellent water from the river, which is only distant a few hundred yards from the Petiro, where a large resewoir might be formed, and the city supplied by means of p ι P es [7:5:645]from this source. The water might be conveyed by a canal or tunnel to the base of the Retiro, which is not forty feet above it in level, and raised by means of machinery similar to that which is employed in mines for emptying them of water.

Fuel is also an expensive article of consumption in Buenos Ayres, the coal used there being brought from England, and fire-wood from Entre Rios and the islands of the Parana and Uruguay. Considerable supplies, however, are furnished by means of the peach trees, which are cultivated very generally in the neighbourhood.

All vessels coming to Buenos Ayres, excepting those of a small draught of water, usually anchor in the outer roads, distant about eight or nine miles from the shore, where there is upwards of three fathoms of water. In this situation they usually embark and disembark their cargoes by means of lighters; but when unloaded and waiting for cargoes, they generally come into the inner roads, distant only about two miles from the shore, where the water is much shallower. In neither of these situations are they well protected from the storms blowing from the eastward; but the most violent winds which prevail here are the pamperos from the westward, and during these the shipping is sufficiently sheltered by the land.

The river Plata throughout its whole extent, as if to compensate for its great breadth, is extremely shallow, and requires very careful navigation even for vessels of moderate size. The direction of the winds, when strong or long continued, very much influences the quantity of water contained in the river: thus, when they blow from the eastward up the river, the flow of the water downwards is so much impeded, that it accumulates greatly, and the level rises. A remarkable instance of this occurred in 1820, when, during a violent gale of wind from the east, which drove upwards of twenty vessels on shore, the tract of land situated along the margin of the river was overflowed and covered with the cargoes and remains of the wrecked vessels. On the contrary, after long-continued and violent pamperos or westerly winds, the flow of the waters of the river is so much accelerated as to leave its channel comparatively empty; an occurrence which has been frequently observed. On one occasion, during the British expedition against Buenos Ayres, this took place to such an extent that many of the vessels were grounded, and one was left in such shallow water as to have been actually boarded and taken possession of by a party of gauchos on horseback; and in the first volume of the Naval Chronicle a still more remarkable occurrence of this kind is recorded. “In 1793 the waters of this river were forced, in the month of April, by a most violent current of wind, to the distance of ten leagues, so that the neighbouring plains were entirely inundated, and the bed of the river left dry. Ships which had been sunk in the river for upwards of thirty years were uncovered, and, among others, an English vessel which was cast away in the year 1762. Several persons repaired to the bed of the river, where they could walk about without wetting their feet, and returned laden with silver and other riches which had been long buried under the water. This phenomenon continued three days, at the end of which the wind ceased, and the water returned with great violence to its natural bed.” Such an occurrence, although apparently somewhat exaggerated, may to a certain extent be accounted for by the inconsiderable depth of water which prevails throughout the greater part of this river, and the great extent of surface exposed to the influence of the wind.

The breeding and rearing of cattle constitutes by far the most important and extensive branch of agricultural industry in this province, which, in all directions excepting in the immediate vicinity of the city, is covered with estancias or breeding farms, which are considered as the most profitable investments of capital, the increase of stock being so rapid under ordinary circumstances as amply to repay the labour and expense of these establishments. The number of cattle which formerly existed in this country almost exceeds belief. Before the revolution they were often killed merely for the sake of their hides, and were generally purchased at a dollar each. But since that time their value has greatly increased, owing to the increased demand for exportation, and the diminution of numbers occasioned by the political occurrences which took place subsequent to that period; but even at present their number is very considerable, and they are sold at from five to eight or ten dollars each. The size of the estancias is sometimes very considerable, comprising many square leagues; and the number of cattle on the largest may vary from twenty to forty or fifty thousand. Every proprietor can easily distinguish his own cattle and horses by a mark branded on each of them; the period of the year when the young animals are collected to undergo this operation being a time of festivity and enjoyment. At each estancia, after stated intervals, a rodeo is held, when all the cattle are collected together and examined, and those which have strayed from the neighbouring estates are driven back by the peons or farm servants, who attend on such occasions from the surrounding estancias, and the animals are thus prevented from straying too far. They are remarkably fond of salt, and sometimes travel great distances to feed on this substance at the lakes and other places where it abounds. It is a common observation, that the flesh of those cattle and sheep who feed in districts where salt abounds is much more savoury than any other; and every circumstance tends to prove that salt powerfully assists the process of digestion in these animals, as well as in the. human species. In consequence of the diminution which bad taken place in the number of cattle, a law was enacted prohibiting the slaughter of cows, so as to encourage by every possible means the increase of this staple article of produce.

Horses.are likewise very abundant. They are from fourteen to sixteen hands high, hardy, and capable of undergoing a great deal of fatigue in the performance of long journeys. Their usual pace, which is a canter or gallop, is very easy, and-causes little fatigue to the traveller. Their price varies from four or five dollars to eighteen or twenty, according to the quality and demand; but they have occasionally been purchased in large quantities, for the use of the government, at three dollars or twelve shillings each. The large Flemish or dray horse has recently been introduced into the country, with the view of employing it in the traffic with the interior. A great prejudice exists here against using mares for the saddle; and such is the ridicule excited among the natives by their use, that only some foreigners have as yet ventured to introduce the custom. They are only useful for breeding and treading out corn, and may be purchased at half a dollar or two shillings each. They are often bartered or sold to the Indians, who use them as their principal article of food, and prefer their flesh to any other. This practice has exercised a remarkable influence on the mode of warfare which these tribes have carried on against the Creoles, giving them a mobility in all their operations which cannot be attained by any other means. Provided with a herd of mares, which on such occasions form their only food, they can advance or retreat with great celerity, and thereby evade a rencontre with their opponents. The late Colonel Rauch, however, followed their example, when in command of the frontier, by feeding his soldiers on mares’ flesh while on service, and thereby gained the desired superiority which discipline afforded, over his uncivilized opponents.
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The number of mules reared in this province is inconsiderable compared with that in the interior provinces, where the ground is harder, and better suited for the rearing of mules for exportation to Bolivia, and for the use of the mountainous districts. Sheep were formerly valued only for their wool, and were purchased for about threepence each; their flesh was seldom used for food, but was frequently dried and used as fuel in the burning of bricks; and there is still a law extant, prohibiting the practice of .driving the sheep alive into the brick-kilns to save the trouble of previously killing them. They are now more valuable, both as an article of food, and for their wool and skins, which are exported. Endeavours have already been made to improve the quality of the wool by the introduction of Merino sheep. The price of sheep varies from half a dollar to a dollar each.

As the breeding of cattle has principally occupied the attention of the inhabitants of this country, comparatively little attention has hitherto been paid to the other branches of agriculture. Wheat is only cultivated to a small extent, and in quantity quite insufficient to supply the demands of the inhabitants. This is owing principally to the frequent failure of wheaten crops, which in dull and moist weather are liable to blight, and during other years to total loss from the long continuance of dry weather. In future this branch of agriculture will probably be principally confined to the country south of the river Salado, where the soil and climate are much better adapted to the production of wheat than nearer Buenos Ayres. In the former district the soil consists of a stratum of black mould, several feet in thickness, under wduch is a bed of clay, resting on sand and gravel, where water is usually found. In the latter it consists of a chalky yet productive mould, unmixed with stones, but resting on a stratum of tosea, consisting of hardened clay and lime, which is usually situated from ten to thirty yards beneath the surface. Barley and maize are cultivated with success; the latter being produced in great abundance, and extensively used as an article of food. The great influx of intelligent foreigners into the province has introduced many branches of agriculture previously unknown, and materially contributed towards developing the natural resources of the country. The introduction of timber and forest trees into the province as an article of culture has excited much attention; and efforts are making to form plantations, which will greatly beautify the country, and eventually supply the inhabitants with timber, which at present is brought from a great distance, and is very expensive.

The fences or inclosures used in this country consist, in the neighbourhood of the city and the more cultivated districts, of the tuna (Cactus Peruvianus) and American aloe (Agave Americana), which grow with rapidity and luxuriance, especially the latter, whose tall, flowering stem rises up to the height of twenty-five or thirty feet in the course of one year, and strikingly evinces the strength of vegetation in this climate. It is considered objectionable as a fence, as its large sheathing leaves afford shelter to numerous small animals, which destroy the produce of the fields inclosed. In the more remote districts ditching has been found to be the only kind of inclosure suited to the country, the earth which is excavated forming a raised embankment on the inside. Some of the foreigners settled in the country have improved this mode of fencing, by planting rows of the tala shrub along these embankments.

In consequence of the long and extensive intercourse which has been maintained between the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres and the numerous foreigners established in their country, they have been deeply impressed with the importance of an increase in their numbers, having had ample experience of their greater industry and superior attainments in agriculture and the arts. The authorities, fully participating in these feelings, took effectual measures to encourage, by every means in their power, the ingress into the country of industrious artisans and agricultural labourers from Europe. Accordingly, on the 13th April 1824, and 19th January 1825, decrees were issued by the government, appointing a committee of emigration, who were provided with the necessary funds and instructions to enable them to carry forward this important undertaking. This committee consisted of citizens, and foreigners resident and possessing fixed property in the country, so proportioned as duly to represent the interests of all parties concerned. They were directed to take effectual measures to make known to the industrious classes in Europe the inducements held out to them to emigrate to Buenos Ayres, and to employ agents in Europe in furtherance of the undertaking. They were authorized to pay a sum not exceeding one hundred dollars, or twenty pounds sterling, as passage-money for each adult arriving in the country; to provide such as required assistance on their arrival, with food and lodgings for fifteen days, during which time they were allowed to seek for employment, and, if unsuccessful at the expiry of that period, the committee were charged with the duty of finding employment for them, and of regulating the contracts and agreements entered into by mutual consent with their employers, in such a manner as to secure the rights and privileges of each party during its continuance, and to provide for the repayment of the expenses incurred by the committee, by means of a well-regulated system of gradual instalments. It was likewise enacted, that emigrants completing the terms of their respective engagements to the satisfaction of the committee, were entitled to a preference in the renting of the state lands, each portion of land not being of less extent than sixty acres, but greater in proportion to the fitness and means of each. Under such circumstances, deserving individuals were authorized to receive from the funds of the committee a loan of three hundred dollars, or sixty pounds sterling, on which a per centage was to be paid annually, and the whole repaid by instalments at stated but convenient periods; all such occupiers of land having the right of possession of the legal value of the lands, of all the improvements effected, and to negociate or transfer them, as also to become the purchasers of such lands in preference to every other competitor, when authorized by law to be sold. The emigi’ants were to enjoy the protection and guarantee of the laws of the country, the security of persons and property, and the enjoyment of all rights and privileges possessed by the natives; exemption from all taxes and contributions not imposed on the rest of the community; and exemption during a certain period from all civil and military services, unless voluntary, together with the free exercise of their religion.

These judicious regulations were speedily carried into effect by the committee, in the preparation of the Recoleta, a large and spacious convent in the vicinity of the city, for the reception of emigrants and their families on their arrival, and by the active circulation, in Great Britain, France, and Germany, of these regulations. The efficacy of these measures was soon afterwards evinced by the numbers who resorted from these countries to Buenos Ayres. The following table will show the progress made in this undertaking during the interval between the time of its enactment and November 1826, when all further arrivals of emigrants were prevented by the war with Brazil. It shows the amount of monies advanced to the emigrants by the committee, and the extent of the repayments whic had been made, up to April 1828; and the results are highly [7:5:647]creditable to the national character of the Germans, who, on account of their industry and correct conduct, are much esteemed in this country. The village of Chorroarin, alluded to in the table, was an establishment formed for the German emigrants on 11th March 1827, in the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres.

Abstract of Proceedings of Committee of Emigration of Buenos Ayres, from 24√7* September 1825 to April 1828.
[table]
[table]

The subsequent proceedings of the committee are of little interest, the continuance of the war, and the other political circumstances of the country, having prevented any renewal of their exertions. On the 20th of August 1830, the committee was abolished, and their proceedings brought to a conclusion, by a decree of that period, the existing authorities disapproving of those political principles which originally gave rise to its formation. They affirm that experience has proved to their satisfaction, that the method hitherto pursued with the agricultural emigrants in this country has not been productive of that advantage to the country or to the emigrants themselves which was at first anticipated. It has therefore been determined that any subsequent endeavours to encourage emigration by the government shall be conducted on different principles from those formerly pursued.

The efforts to promote emigration to this country were not, however, entirely confined to the government of Buenos Ayres, but were participated in by two emigration associations connected with Great Britain. The one formed in London under the direction of Mr Barber Beaumont, and named the Rio de la Plata Agricultural Association, sent out emigrants on various occasions to the number of more than six hundred persons, and incurred considerable expense; but it completely failed in accomplishing the principal objects of its institution, the formation of an extensive agricultural establishment in the country. This failure has been attributed by some of those engaged in the undertaking, but evidently on insufficient grounds, to the bad faith, apathy, and want of co-operation on the part of the authorities of Buenos Ayres; and it may with much greater justice be ascribed to the precipitation and mismanagement of those intrusted with the affairs of the association. The emigrants, injudiciously selected, were hurried from Great Britain before they had provided efficient or responsible agents in the country, or had made the necessary arrangements for their reception; the consequence was, that the greater number were kept in a state of idleness and inactivity at Buenos Ayres for many months after their arrival, during which time they became acquainted with the country and its inhabitants, and formed connections tending to divert them from fulfilling their engagements to the association, so that only a few of them ever reached their final destination. The greater part of their operations were carried on during the war with Brazil, when every obstacle was thrown in the way of their success; and the principal agricultural establishment which they formed was in the province of Entre Rios, where the authorities of Buenos Ayres exercised no influence or control, more especially during the war. The Committee of Emigration advanced, in aid of these emigrants, 26,802 dollars, or L.5025. 7s. 3d. sterling, no part of which appears ever to have been repaid. But although this undertaking proved a complete failure in as far as the interests of the shareholders were concerned, yet the emigrants had no cause of complaint, since all those inclined to be industrious found plenty of employment and good wages. Some of them entered on board the privateers and into the naval service of Buenos Ayres during the war with Brazil, and greatly distinguished themselves during their various combats with the Brazilian squadron.

The other association was of a very different character. It was formed by the Messrs Robertsons, British merchants settled in Buenos Ayres, and in connection with some of the natives possessing influence and capital. They purchased some adjoining properties at Monte Grande, situated about fifteen miles south-west of the city. The emigrants were selected with great care from among the intelligent and experienced farmers of the south of Scotland, and were conveyed to the new colony with their families, domestic and farm servants, and all the requisite implements of husbandry. The property, which contained upwards of fifteen thousand acres, was divided into nearly equal portions, and distributed among the principal farmers by lot, a part having been reserved for the formation of a projected village, and for some other purposes connected with the establishment; and a comfortable brick house and offices were built at each farm for the accommodation of the emigrants.

In April 1828, when the colony had been in existence three years, and had the fairest prospect of ultimate success, it presented a very interesting appearance. It had already attracted the attention of the most intelligent citizens of Buenos Ayres, and of the inhabitants around it. The farmers had made considerable progress in bringing under culture the lands which had been apportioned to them, and which they found almost in a state of nature. While introducing the Scottish system of farming, they judiciously adopted those agricultural practices of the country which were found best suited to the soil and climate, and with the most decided advantage. Two thousand and fourteen acres had then been inclosed with well-made ditches, and planted with young hedges formed of tala, a thorny shrub, natural to the country, which, on trial, had been found well calculated for this purpose. Four hundred and thirty-nine acres had been planted with forest and fruit trees, in addition [7:5:648]to the tala thicket, which they found in existence; and-they had abundant crops of maize or Indian corn, but had failed in their attempts to cultivate wheat. The dairy had proved a very lucrative branch of industry, the colonists having in their possession two thousand seven hundred and fifty-seven head of black cattle, principally milch cows. They made considerable quantities of butter and cheese, which, on account of its excellent quality, was quickly sold in the city at high prices.

Some of the original emigrants had left the colony, but had been replaced by others of the party of Beaumont; and the colony then consisted of one hundred and fifty-three men, eighty-eight women, and eighty-seven children, in all three hundred and twenty-six Scotch; and a hundred and eighty-eight natives of the country were employed in their various domestic and agricultural occupations, with which they had become familiarized. A Presbyterian chapel had been erected, and a clergyman brought from Scotland, who, besides his clerical duties, superintended the education of the children of the colony. The improvements which they had introduced into the agricultural practices of the country were numerous and important; but it may suffice to state one or two instances to evince the advantages arising from their zeal and intelligence. During the first year of their settlement one of their number lost some of his crop, in consequence of the dried thistles in the neighbourhood taking fire and extending its ravages to his fields. The conflagration, however, was speedily extinguished, and prevented from extending itself farther, by the strenuous and united efforts of all the colonists. But to prevent a similar occurrence in future, and to clear their lands from suchrintruders, one of their number invented an instrument which with little expense and trouble speedily accomplished this object. The wheels, axle-tree, and trams of a cart were procured; two perpendicular shafts were made to project downwards from the axle-tree, having the lower extremity armed with scythes; a rotatorymotion was communicated to these scythes by the movement of the wheels of the cart, and they cut across all the young thistles which intervened between the wheels in passing. It was moved by a single horse. When this was done at the proper season, the thistles did not arrive at maturity or bear seed that year, and were thus gradually extinguished. The biscachos committed great ravages among their corn and green crops, and were therefore rooted out of the colony by the following means. By the common consent of the colonists, the whole of their burrows, which are generally found crowded together in certain localities, were firmly closed up with earth; and the same operation was repeated daily for some time, where new holes were formed, until these animals were either driven from the district, or perished in their burrows from excessive labour and deficient food; for they are timid, and only venture out to feed during the night time.

Since the above period, however, the Scottish colony at Monte Grande has experienced various vicissitudes tending to retard its progress. During the civil war which prevailed in the province in 1829, the whole of their live stock was swept away by the combatants; but the colonists having assiduously cultivated their fields when their neighbours had suspended their agricultural operations in consequence of the disturbed state of the country, they sold their produce at high prices, the people being almost entirely dependent on them for some articles, and thereby more than counterbalanced the losses they had otherwise sustained. Subsequently they have experienced, in common with all the rest of the province, the fatal consequences of the longcontinued drought which has almost ever since prevailed, and against which no foresight or industry could provide. From these and other causes the original establishment has been broken up; and the farms are now held on a different tenure by several of the original farmers, who have, in some instances, been joined by their friends and relatives from Scotland.

Artizans in considerable numbers have likewise resorted from Europe to this province, and, when industrious, they have almost uniformly improved their circumstances. They have plenty of employment, and, as well as the agricultural labourers, receive high wages. These inducements, the abundance and cheapness of living, and the protection of person, property, and religion, which is enjoyed at Buenos Ayres, only require to be better and more generally known in Europe to induce a considerable portion of its redundant population to remove to a country possessing so fine a climate, with such great natural and social advantages.

Emigrants from Great Britain have even greater inducements than others to settle in this country, as, besides the security and privileges insured to all foreigners settling among them by the established laws of the country, they are especially protected by a treaty of amity, commerce, and navigation, concluded on the 2d February 1825, between his Britannic majesty and the supreme authorities of the united provinces of the Rio de la Plata. This treaty guarantees a reciprocal freedom of commerce and navigation; security of person and property, even in the event of a rupture between the two countries; the right of possessing and disposing of property of all kinds by will or otherwise; exemption from all compulsory military services by sea or land, and from all forced loans or military exactions; the enjoyment of perfect liberty of conscience, with the free exercise of religion; and the right of building churches or chapels, with the previous consent of the government, and of forming burial-places for their own use. į.British capital to a considerable amount has already been invested in the purchase of property in this country, and in the formation of estancias and other establishments; and emigrants from Great Britain are received with the best and most friendly feelings on the part of the inhabitants, the more intelligent part of whom are strongly impressed with the conviction, that the future prosperity of their country will mainly depend on the augmented number of industrious emigrants from Europe.

Such emigrants as possess capital, and resort to Buenos Ayres for the purpose of engaging in the breeding of cattle or in agriculture, will find valuable properties which may be purchased at moderate prices. The value, however, varies considerably according to situation and other circumstances. The sale of public lands has been prohibited for some years past, in consequence of the extensive alienation of state lands which formerly took place, ata time when the price obtained was very inconsiderable, and altogether inadequate to their real value. The law of emphyteusis was therefore passed, which prohibits the further sale of public lands until the country shall be relieved from the debts and other obligations contracted by the government, and its revenue otherwise well regulated; it being anticipated that, as the government becomes more permanent and efficient, and the population more numerous and industrious, the increased value of these lands will not only suffice to relieve the country of these encumbrances, but will furnish a permanent revenue, so as to enable the government to lessen the custom-house duties and other taxes. This law has been considered as favourable to emigrants and natives desirous of forming estancias or farms, by its preventing the accumulation of large tracts of land in the han s of capitalists, who might exercise an undue or caρ∏cio us influence over such settlers, or retain their lands in an un productive state; and by enabling settlers at once to employ all their capital in the improvement of the proper y [7:5:649] they occupy, instead of sinking a large portion of it in the purchase of land.

These regulations enable the authorities to dispose of the public lands on leases of not less than eight years, at an annual quitrent, estimated at about eighty dollars, or L.16 sterling, for every square league of land; the precise sum, however, is fixed by a jury of the neighbouring proprietors, on a survey and measurement being made at the public expense, under the direction of the topographical board; it being necessary in granting leases, or in the transfer of property, to have their limits determined by such means, to render these transactions legal. To the leases of public lands are annexed the following conditions, namely, that all improvements made on the lands during the lease shall belong to the lessee, be transferable to his heirs or successors, and paid for according to valuation, by government, or by his successor, in the event of his leaving the land at the end of the lease; and that, in the event of the property being sold by the government, the lessee shall have a preferable right to become the purch’aser over every other person. To render such leases valid, if for an estancia, the tenant is required within two years to have on the property at least a hundred head of cattle, the requisite number of horses, a hut or dwelling-house, and a corral or inclosure for the cattle, for every square league of land so occupied. At the termination of the lease, if desirous of continuing in possession, a renewal of the lease may be obtained on an increase of rent proportioned to the augmented value of land, as determined by a jury.

The promulgation of this law was followed by many applications for lands, and numerous estancias have accordingly been formed. Endeavours have been made by influential individuals possessing capital, and desirous of obtaining entire possession of some of these lands, to have this law rescinded, but hitherto without success, or any probability of such a change; as the general impression among the influential inhabitants of Buenos Ayres is favourable to the permanency of a measure so much calculated to maintain the credit and respectability of the country and of government.

From its advantageous position, Buenos Ayres seems destined to become the great emporium of commerce in this part of South America, being situated near the confluence of the rivers Parana and Uruguay, where they unite to form the Rio de la Plata. An easy communication is thereby afforded with those extensive and important countries through which these mighty rivers and their numerous tributaries flow. The Parana, which is considered the parent stream, may be navigated without impediment as far as the island of Apipe, distant fifteen hundred miles from the mouth of the river Plata, at Cape Santa Maria. The river Paraguay, of equal importance, may be ascended nearly as far as the Laguna de los Xarayes, and conveys vessels of considerable size to Assumption, the capital of Paraguay, in which country vessels of three hundred tons have been built, and afterwards employed in foreign voyages. The large and important rivers Pilcomayo and Vermejo flow into the Paraguay, and extend the communication by water within a short distance of the centre of Bolivia, traversing in their course the provinces of Salta and Gran Chaco. Farther south the fertile provinces of Tucuman and Sant Iago del Estero communicate with the Parana by means of the Salado, which unites with it at Santa Fě; and the river Tercero may be rendered available, at an inconsiderable expense, in improving the communication with the provinces of Cordova and of Cuyo, situated near the Andes.

1he Uruguay, in connection with the Rio Negro, and other important rivers which unite with it, penetrate far into the interior, and open up an extensive and fertile country to commerce and civilization. Little advantage, however, has hitherto been taken of all these facilities, either by the Spaniards or their successors; and the commerce which is carried on by means of these rivers is as yet very limited. The establishment of steam navigation will powerfully contribute to the extension of industry and civilization throughout these countries, by the certainty and rapidity of communication which will be the consequence. By this means a voyage may be made from Buenos Ayres to Assumption in a fortnight, though under present circumstances it occupies several months.

The commercial intercourse of Buenos Ayres with the interior has hithertobeen principally carried on by means of mules, and of waggons drawn by six bullocks each. These waggons are of a rude and clumsy construction, being formed entirely of wood, and are secured and strengthened by pieces of hide.. They usually travel in troops of from twelve to twenty in number, for mutual protection and assistance in cases of difficulty. Those which travel from Mendoza or San Juan to the capital, a distance of about nine hundred miles, generally occupy a month in the journey. By means of these waggons a very extensive traffic was formerly carried on from Buenos Ayres for the supply of Upper Peru with European productions, and yerba or Paraguay tea, of which about 2,500,000 pounds were formerly sent every year to Peru, and 1,000,000 pounds to Chili. They travelled by way of Cordova, Tucuman, and Salta, to Jujuy, which is situated on the confines of Bolivia, and distant 1617 miles from Buenos Ayres. But the war of independence greatly interrupted this traffic; and subsequent events having enabled Bolivia to obtain supplies by a cheaper and more direct route, it has nearly ceased, excepting for the consumption of the intervening provinces, the greater part of which will eventually obtain supplies, and an -outlet for their productions, at much less expense, by means of the rivers Vermejo and Salado, which traverse these provinces.

The commerce of Buenos Ayres, although subject to many and injurious restrictions under the Spanish regime, was very considerable, as Peru obtained many of its supplies by this channel. The average annual trade of this port between 1792 and 1796 was as follows:
[table]

The extent and value of the foreign commerce of Buenos Ayres have since become very considerable, having gradually increased in importance since free intercourse has been permitted with other countries. The external wars and civil dissensions in which its inhabitants have been engaged have somewhat retarded its progress, but to a less extent than might have been expected. When its commerce is viewed in relation to the population and resources of the country, its amount far exceeds that of the other New South American states, and shows the great advantages it has derived from a free and unrestricted intercourse with other nations, and the liberal and enlightened principles pursued by the authorities in regulating this intercourse, and encouraging industry and enterprise.

In 1S21 the number of vessels cleared out at Buenos Ayres were 322, of which 114 were British; in 1822 there were 304, of which 167 were British; in 1830 there were 250, of which sixty were British, seventy-one North American, forty-one national, twenty-six Brazilian, and the remainder of various nations. During 1821 and the [7:5:650]three following years, the number of vessels which arrived at Buenos Ayres laden with goods and produce from Great Britain were a hundred and twenty-eight, a hundred and thirty-three, a hundred and thirteen, and a hundred and ten; but during 1831 only forty-four British vessels with cargoes arrived at Buenos Ayres, owing to the depressed state of commerce. The trade of Buenos Ayres with Paraguay has been almost entirely suspended during the last twelve years, in consequence of the extraordinary policy pursued by Francia, the ruler of that country; but it will undoubtedly be renewed on a change taking place, as its productions are important and in great demand all over South America, especially the yerba or Paraguay tea, obtained from the Ilex Paraguayensis ; and the tobacco, which is of superior quality. Valuable timber is also obtained from the same country, with which an extensive commerce was formerly carried on.

With the exception of Brazil, the commerce of Buenos Ayres is of more importance to Great Britain than that of any other of the new states of South America. The whole exports from Britain to South America and Mexico exclusive of Brazil, during four years ending 1825, amounted to L.12,986,139 sterling; and of this upwards of one third, or L.4,648,451, was sent to the Rio de la Plata. The value of the trade of Great Britain with this country is shown by the following table of exports and imports to Buenos Ayres in each year from 1806, when it was first opened to foreign commerce, to 1830, with the exception of 1808, 1809, 1810, 1811, and 1813, the records of which years were destroyed by fire. The diminution during 1826, 1827, and 1828, was owing to the war carried on between Buenos Ayres and Brazil, during which period the port of Buenos Ayres was strictly blockaded by the naval forces of the latter power.
[table]

The commerce of the United States of North America for one year ending 30th September 1826, with Buenos Ayres, amounted to 522,769 dollars, or L.104,553. 12s. of imports, and 379,340 dollars, or L.75,868, of exports, of which 222,832 dollars consisted of domestic produce, and 155,508 dollars of foreign produce. This trade has, however, greatly extended itself of late years, in consequence of the fatal effects of the civil dissensions and other domestic calamities upon the crops. To supply the necessary wants of the inhabitants, large quantities of flour have been imported from North America, which has greatly tended to impoverish the country. The trade with the United States for flour will no doubt be greatly diminished, or cease altogether, if the republic remains tranquil, and is enabled to attend to agricultural pursuits. In former times considerable quantities of wheat were exported from Buenos Ayres to Brazil.

The imports into Buenos Ayres consist of manufactured goods from Europe, Asia, and North America; wines and brandies from France, Spain, and Sicily; Rhenish wines from Hamburg; gin from Hamburg, Antwerp, and North America; rum from Brazil and Havannah; ale, porter, salt, coals, iron, flag-stones, and other merchandise, from Great Britain; sugar, rum, and arrack, from the Isle of France, in exchange for mules; rum, rice, and tobacco, from the Havannah, in exchange for jerked beef; flour, pine-boards, planks, and mahogany, from the United States of North America. The following table shows the nature and value of these imports during 1829 and 1830.
[table]

The nature and value of the various articles of θ^P. from Buenos Ayres during one year, will be seen in following table :— [7:5:651]Table of Exports from Buenos Ayres during one year after the termination of the war with Brazil, showing its nature and amount, the Shipping employed, and destination.
[table]
[7:5:652]

The regulations of the custom-house at Buenos Ayres are very good, and business is transacted there with so much dispatch and precision as to prove very satisfactory to merchants and travellers. The import, export, and transit duties payable at the port of Buenos Ayres are as follow, but liable to yearly revision and alteration.

Import Duties. — Mercury, machinery, and instruments used in agriculture, the sciences, and the arts; books, engravings, pictures, statuary, printing presses; wool and furs for manufactures; embroidery in silk, gold or silver, with or without jewels; watches, jewellery, coal, saltpetre, gypsum, lime, stone for building, bricks, timber, rushes, and canes, pay five per cent. Raw and manufactured silk, arms, powder, flints, pitch, tar, cordage, and rice, pay ten per cent. Manufactured goods and hardware pay seventeen per cent. Sugar, tea, coffee, yerba mate, cocoa, and provisions, generally pay twenty-four per cent. Furniture, looking-glasses, coaches, saddlery and harness, wearing apparel, boots, shoes, liquors, brandies, wines, vinegars, malt liquors, cider, and tobacco, pay forty per cent. All other articles pay seventeen per cent. Wheat, when not exceeding six dollars per fanega, pays four dollars; when seven dollars, it pays three dollars; and above seven dollars, it pays two dollars of duty. Flour pays three dollars per quintal; salt pays one and a half dollar per fanega; and hats of silk, wool, or fur, nine dollars each. Export Duties. — Hides of bulls, oxen, cows, horses, and mules, pay one dollar each. Salt beef exported in national vessels, grain, provisions, biscuit, flour, sheep skins, wool, tanned hides, and all manufactures of the country free of duty. Gold and silver pay one per cent., but the export of coined money is at present prohibited. All other productions of the province or interior provinces pay four per cent. Transit Duties. — Goods of maritime introduction, on being transhipped, pay a fifth part of the amount of duty payable on their introduction into the country. Goods warehoused pay two per cent, on being re-embarked. Twenty-five days are allowed for transhipping, and six months for reembarking goods which have been warehoused, each being dated from the day of the vessel’s arrival.

A bank of discounts was established in Buenos Ayres in 1822, with a capital of one million of dollars, which continued to prosper while it remained a private concern, and under the management of those most interested in its prosperity. When the province of Buenos Ayres became engaged, almost single handed, in a contest with the empire of Brazil, the exigencies of the government induced the authorities to use their influence to have it converted into a national bank, of which the government became large shareholders, and acquired great influence in its management. Strenuous efforts were made to extend its operations to the other provinces, but the introduction of its paper currency was so firmly opposed in almost every quarter, that very little has ever gone beyond the province. The fatal consequences of this measure were soon apparent in the great and rapid depreciation of the bank paper; an evil which was increased by every successive issue of paper to supply the wants of the government during the war with Brazil, and during the civil dissensions which have subsequently occurred. From forty-five pence, at which the paper dollar stood before the formation of the national bank, it fell at one time as low as fivepence halfpenny, and, according to the latest accounts, was sevenpence halfpenny per dollar. The interference of the government with this institution, of which they became the principal debtors, has proved ruinous in the extreme to the wealth and prosperity of the inhabitants. An effort was made by the authorities to remedy this great evil, by the imposition of certain extra duties and taxes, from which sources a sinking fund was created to purchase up and extinguish the bank currency; and some progress has already been made in this undertaking, but as yet little compared with the extent of the evil. The bank has thus become so intimately connected with the financial state of the country, that it can now only recover its former credit in proportion as the state is enabled to repay the debts which it has contracted in relation to this establishment.

The revenue derived by Spain from Buenos Ayres from 1776, when it was formed into a vice-royalty, until 1806, when it was taken by the English, seldom exceeded seven hundred thousand dollars annually; which sum not only comprised the revenue of the provinces of Rio de la Plata, but also that of Upper Peru. It was derived from the alcabala, a duty of from three to five per cent, on all sales and re-sales, tithes, royal fifths of gold and silver, a poll tax on the Indians, sales of papal bulls, tonnage duties, &c. Many of these imposts were very oppressive, and often exacted with great partiality and injustice. But they ceased to be productive on the commencement of the revolution, with the exception of the customs, which were greatly augmented, in consequence of the extensive, trade which ensued. The revenue derived from the custom-house of Buenos Ayres for five years ending 1795 amounted to 1,947,849 dollars, giving an annual average of 389,569 dollars; during 1802 it had increased to 857,702 dollars. Various attempts were made by the new government to increase the amount of revenue from this source, by an augmentation of the duties, but with the most injurious consequences to the revenue, as the high duties created so extensive a system of contraband trade, in a country possessing so many facilities for the infraction of the revenue laws, that on some occasions whole cargoes were landed without the payment of any duties.

In 1821 effectual measures were taken to remedy this evil, by remodelling the custom-house, and establishing a new scale of duties, formed on such moderate and just principles as tended to remove the temptation to further violation of the revenue laws. By the new tariff, the duties imposed on imports were from five to twenty-five per cent.; all duties being abolished on goods transmitted to the interior or received from thence, hides excepted. The beneficial consequences resulting from these regulations were apparent, in the immediate termination of smuggling, and the great increase in the revenue from the custom-house. The stamps and licenses were properly regulated, and extended to public houses. The port duties were continued, but national vessels were exempted. A property tax was imposed on capital, merchants paying annually eight dollars, manufacturers six, breeders of cattle two, farmers one, and all others two dollars for every thousand dollars of property; every one having less than one thousand dollars of capital being exempted from this duty, and, if married, less than two thousand dollars. The alcabala was abolished, and next year the tithes shared the same fate. After the improvements made in 1821, however, the increase of the revenue from the customs and other sources was very remakable. In 1822 and 1823, and subsequently, the amount of these, with sales and rents of public property, has been as follows.

Devenue of 1822 and 1823.
[table]
[7:5:653]

Revenue of 1824.
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During the early years of the revolution, the revenue having proved insufficient to meet the expenses of the war of independence, various loans were at different times obtained, and these were allowed to accumulate until 1821, when they were examined and found to amount to about four and a half millions of dollars. This debt was then consolidated, and a sinking fund created for its gradual extinction, which has been in operation cver since. But in the interim a variety of causes gave rise to the accumulation of new debts. During 1824 a loan was contracted in London for one million sterling at six per cent., the contracting price being eighty-five per cent. The value of these bonds fluctuated considerably during the continuance of the Rivadavian administration, the interest having been regularly paid in London when due; but only on one occasion did they fall so low as forty. Since 12th July 1827, however, no interest whatever has been paid, consequently these bonds have fallen in value, having varied from forty to twenty, their present value being about twenty-four per cent. Besides this loan, various other additions have been made to the public debt during the war with Brazil, of which the following statement presents an approximate view.
[table]

To this amount should be added the interest due on the loan contracted in England at six per cent, during the last five years; and also a loan of four millions of current dol- ' lars, amounting, at 7∣d. each, to L.125,000 sterling, which has been raised by subscription in the province during the early part of 1832, to enable the government to pay the expenses incurred by the late civil war. These sums being united to the others, will raise the total amount of the public debt to about four millions sterling.

With the exception of the loan contracted in London, the whole of the remaining debt is redeemable in the currency of the country, and, in consequence of its great depreciation, could easily be paid off' at the present time. But as this can only be accomplished gradually, the rates of exchange will necessarily rise in proportion to the progress made in the payment of the floating debt, and on the general prosperity of the country. The two sinking funds are still in operation for the extinction of the public debts; the one to redeem the funded debt, the other formed from the new duties imposed for the express purpose of buying up and destroying the bank-notes in circulation, or floating debt, and thereby removing the principal cause of the present depreciation. From 16th November 1829, when this latter sinking fund was first established, to 15th January 1832, it has produced 2,481,323 current dollars, or L.76,29l. 6s. lid. sterling, which has been already applied to the extinction of the paper currency. The revenue, in times of peace, considerably exceeds the necessary public expenditure; and, if tranquillity can be maintained for some years, it will materially contribute to the ultimate payment of the public debt. Besides, the public lands are preserved inviolate as a guarantee to the public creditors; an example which ought undoubtedly to be followed with the public lands of the other provinces, as they have had an equal share .in the good or bad consequences resulting from the war of independence, the war with Brazil, and the civil contentions which have occasionally prevailed in the country, and given rise to the accumulation of these debts, the province of Buenos Ayres having on all these occasions principally contributed the necessary funds. That effectual measures will be adopted to accomplish this very desirable object as soon as circumstances will permit, cannot be doubted, as the authorities and the community are in general strongly impressed with the importance of regaining their credit, both at home and abroad; and it is but doing justice to the national character for good faith in pecuniary matters, to state, that prior to the Brazilian war, and the depreciation of the currency, it was a rare occurrence for any native of the Argentine Provinces engaged in business to become bankrupt, or to fail in the due performance of his pecuniary engagements.

In 1806, when the city of Buenos Ayres was taken by; the British, its population was estimated at sixty thousand, ι In 1823 a calculation of the population was made from the bills of mortality of the city and country; the proportion of 3 1 g being assumed as the measure of mortality in the former, and ⅛ in the latter, which gave 81∙136 for the city and 82∙080 for the country. In 1822 and 1823 the proportion of deaths to births was as 100 to 111 in the city, and 100 to 156 in the country, the average of the whole province being 100 to 131. The assertion that a larger proportion of females than of males is born in this country has been disproved by the same returns, which show the births of males to that of females to be 100 to 95 in the city, and 100 to 96 in the country. The proportion of deaths under fifteen years of age to that of deaths above this age was 100 to 95 in the city, and 100 to 98 in the country. The following table of marriages, births, and deaths in the city and province of Buenos Ayres during the first six months of 1822, indicates the relative proportions[7:5:654] of the white and coloured population, and what proportion of the latter were then slaves. Their number has since been considerably diminished, in consequence of the operation of the existing laws for the extinction of slavery.
[table]

The number of negro slaves in the province of Buenos Ayres was never very great; they have seldom been employed in laborious works, but principally in the city as domestic servants, and have generally been treated with great kindness by their masters and mistresses.· The laws which have regulated the relation of master and slave in the Spanish colonies have always been mild and favourable to the latter, and their condition has been improved by the revolution. There is a law in this republic which enables a slave, if dissatisfied with the treatment received from his owner, to insist on being sold, provided he can find a purchaser willing to pay the price given for him, or his full value as ascertained by competent judges; a regulation which exercises a most beneficial influence on the proprietor as well as on the slave. In 1813 it was decreed by the national congress, on the declaration of independence, that all children born of slave parents after that date should be free, consequently the number of slaves has been greatly diminished. During the early part of the revolution several thousands of the male negro slaves were purchased by the government from their owners, to serve as soldiers in the patriot armies, a practice which was discontinued in 1822. From all these causes, the number of negroes who are not yet free cannot now exceed one twelfth or one fifteenth part of the population. By the treaty concluded with Great Britain, all Argentines are prohibited from engaging in the slave trade. Little attention has hitherto been paid to the education or moral training of the free children of slaves; an evil which is now very apparent, and which ought to have been provided for on passing the law to which they owe their freedom.

The aboriginal tribes of Indians who inhabit the southern part of this continent, east of the Cordillera of the Andes, are very inconsiderable in number, not exceeding 8000, including men, women, and children, according to the most authentic information; but even these have often proved formidable enemies, from their rapid movements and unexpected attacks on the Creoles, who, although more numerous, were often disunited, and without effective means of defence. Occasionally on these incursions they have been augmented by parties of the Araucanian Indians from the shores of the Pacific Ocean, who are closely allied to them in manners and character, use nearly the same language, and are distinguished by the same acuteness and intrepidity which have so long characterized that nation. It is truly satisfactory to find, that of late peace and tranquillity has been maintained with the Indians, and a good understanding established with them, in consequence of the conciliatory and pacific measures recently pursued by the authorities of Buenos Ayres in their intercourse with these tribes, who now resort in greater numbers and with more confidence than formerly, to the capital, where they carry on a traffic with the inhabitants, and behave with more order and decorum than previously. They have evinced some disposition to adopt the customs and habits of civilized life; and in one district on the frontier the Indian population applied to the government for the erection of a Catholic chapel. Such occurrences as these indicate that the present period is favourable for the introduction of schools for the education of their children, and of those institutions which tend to the promotion of order and industry. Instances are not wanting of their aptitude for improvement, and of the great value they attach to the attainment of knowledge; but hitherto no effort has been made to improve their condition; and they have been taught little by the Creoles excepting their vices, a large proportion of those who have hitherto penetrated into their country having been worthless characters, or such as have fled from justice to avoid the punishment of their crimes. A systematic plan for introducing civilization among this people, if pursued with steadiness and good faith, could not fail of success, and in a few years would convert these tribes, from being the scourge and terror of the country, into quiet and industrious neighbours. The further extension of the Argentine republic towards the south would be greatly facilitated by these means, and very extensive and valuable tracts of country acquired by purchase at an expense far inferior to their real value; every circumstance calculated to produce a renewal of hostilities on the part of the Indians would be avoided; confidence and security would be restored; and a new impulse would be given to the industry and enterprise of the country. Hitherto it has been too much the practice to deprive the Indians of their lands by fraud or violence, when the same object might have been more effectually attained by milder means, had good faith and strict justice been observed towards them. The number of foreigners resident in the city and province of Buenos Ayres is estimated at 12,000, of whom one third are British, one third French, and the remainder Germans, Italians, &c.

Great improvements have taken place at Buenos Ayres in all the departments of education. In 1821 a university was founded there by a decree of the government, and an annual grant of ten thousand dollars given for its maintenance; salaries varying from four hundred to one thousand dollars per annum having been assigned to each of the professors. The principal departments of education then and subsequently instituted at this establishment have been Latin, French, and English, drawing, elementary and practical mathematics, logic, moral and natural philosophy, political economy, civil and national law, theory and practice of medicine and surgery, materia medica, chemistry, and natural history; and a commencement has been made in the formation of a national museum. Provision was also made for the education of those destined for the clerical profession. Degrees of law, medicine, and legislature, are conferred at this university. The government of Buenos Ayres made an offer to the provinces to educate at this university, at the public expense, six young men from each province; an offer which, with few exceptions, was gratefully accepted: but one province in particular, [7:5:655]Mendoza, not satisfied with this number, solicited permission to send twelve of the youth of that province; a request which was acceded to, much to the satisfaction and advantage of its inhabitants. Numbers of young men have also been sent from Buenos Ayres to different parts of Europe for the improvement of their education.

Commercial, military, and various other academies and public schools, on improved principles, have been established in the city for the education of the children of the more wealthy classes, and, among these, an infant school particularly merits attention. Upwards of eight schools on the Lancasterian system have been formed for the tuition of the boys of the lower classes, and are supported at the public expense. A school for the education of the children of foreigners has been established by the British residents, and supported by voluntary contributions and other charitable expedients. During 1830 seventy-two boys and seventeen girls were educated at this school.

In former times the education of females was entirely neglected in this country; but since the country became independent, great advances have been made in this branch of education, more especially in the course of the last nine years, during which time no department of public improvement has made more steady or efficient advances than that of female education. On the 12th of April 1823 an institution called the Society of Beneficence was established under the auspices of the government, and composed of about twenty of the most influential ladies of Buenos Ayres, to whose care was intrusted the direction and superintendence of female education throughout the city and the province. The system of tuition adopted by this society in their schools was that of mutual instruction, introduced by Lancaster, with various improvements recommended by Madame Quignon and others. Besides reading, writing, and arithmetic, they are taught sewing and embroidery in all its departments, and are likewise, in some schools, instructed in the domestic and other duties most suited to their respective stations. In 1825 the number of schools was seven, and these contained six hundred children. In 1827 there were eleven schools, seven in the city, with five hundred and eighty-eight scholars, and four in the province, at San Jose de Flores, San Pedro, Chascomus, and San Nicoas, with two hundred and seventy-one scholars; in all eight hundred and fifty-nine female children. At the commencement of 1832 the number of schools under the care of the society, in the city and province, amounted to fourteen, new ones having been instituted at Luxan and San Fernando; and the number of females educated altogether amounted to one thousand two hundred and four. The experience acquired has enabled the society to reduce its expenditure to less than one half of the sum incurred in 1825, which was sixteen thousand one hundred and six dollars, and at the same time to double the number of schools and young females educated. A uniform system of education prevails in all these schools; and the mistresses or teachers employed, with the exception of four, have been trained and educated in the schools of the society.

There is annually a public examination of the scholars attending these schools, about the time of celebrating the festivals in commemoration of independence. On these occasions the needle-work and other productions of the girls are exhibited to the public, and prizes, provided at the expense of the government and the society, distributed to the most deserving. At each festival three other prizes, the one valued at two hundred, and the others at a hundred dollars each, provided by the government, are adjudged by the society to those females who have most distinguished themselves by good moral conduct, industry, and filial affection. These prizes have been distributed annually since the establishment of the society, and have had much influence in improving the moral and industrious habits of the community. The zeal and uniform constancy with which the ladies connected with this institution have discharged the duties intrusted to them reflect the highest credit on their patriotism and active benevolence, and have already conferred important and lasting benefits on their country.

In 1830 a commission was appointed by the government to investigate the actual state of education in all its various departments throughout the province. An able and judicious report was given in on the 16th March, pointing out numerous defects in the system pursued at the different establishments for education, and suggesting various improvements calculated to render them more efficient, and to place the different departments in greater harmony and accordance with each other, and under a more efficient and responsible superintendence, than heretofore. Primary instruction, consisting of reading, writing, arithmetic, grammar, and the elements of morals and religion, was to be general and obligatory on all the inhabitants. Scientific instruction, consisting of preparatory studies and philosophy, physical and mathematical sciences, medicine, jurisprudence, and theology, was to be optional but gratuitous to all the youth of the country. This report was approved of by the authorities, and is now in course of being carried into practice. These regulations do not apply to any other seminaries of education, excepting those supported at the public expense. No interference, however, has taken place in the department of female education, which still continues under the efficient superintendence of the Society of Beneficence.

In 1811 a public library was formed in Buenos Ayres ļ by the late Dr Mariano Moreno, one of the most influential persons in effecting the revolution of 1810. At first it contained only 12,000 volumes; but in 1822 it had increased to abput 20,000. It has been well selected and regulated, while every convenience and accommodation has been provided for those desirous of consulting the works which it contains. Books of all kinds have free admission into the country on the payment of a small duty, and have of late been imported in considerable quantities from France and England; evincing the increased desire for information which has extended itself over the country. Nothing, however, tends so much to demonstrate the advances made in intellectual pursuits by the inhabitants, as the great activity of the periodical press of Buenos Ayres. The newspapers are numerous, and generally well conducted. They contain much local information connected with statistics and commerce, numerous advertisements, and intelligence from other countries, more especially from the various New South American states. Three daily newspapers are at present published in Buenos Ayres, one of which has existed for eight years. There are various others published once, twice, or three times a week, among which are one in the French and two in the English language; one of the latter, the British Packet, having been published during the last six years. The free and unrestricted liberty of the press was established in 1821, and thereafter exercised in its fullest extent until 1828, when party spirit having become greatly excited, some publications displeasing to the existing authorities made their appearance, and led to the enactment of various restrictions on the freedom of discussion. Trials for offences of the press have in consequence since taken place, and no publications expressing opinions at variance with the policy of the ruling authorities have been allowed to make their appearance, while much difference of opinion has been known to exist. The preceding administration pursued a very dif-ferentpolicy, and imposed no restrictions, but trusted to public opinion for a refutation of any calumnies raised against them. The tranquillity, contentment, and prosperity which [7:5:656]prevailed at Buenos Ayres previous to 1828, when contrasted with the scenes which have followed, sufficiently demonstrate the great importance of allowing the utmost liberty in the expression of opinions on political matters.

Among the literary productions which have issued from the press may be enumerated the historical work of Dean Funes, in which are detailed all the events connected with the revolution and the war of independence; some dramatic productions of Varela; and recently there has been published a collection of Buenos-Ayrean poetry, which is highly creditable to the talents and imaginative powers of the inhabitants. Among these the national ode written by the distinguished Don Vicente Lopez, the present minister for foreign affairs, particularly merits distinction. A statistical register was established in 1822, under the auspices of government, and published monthly for several years, containing the most minute and circumstantial statistical details. A literary society was also established, which, during its continuance, published periodically the Abeja Argentina·, a work containing much scientific and useful information. A topographical society was formed, and the labours of its members have been most useful in fixing the limits of property throughout the province, the greater portion having been scientifically surveyed under its direction. Plans and maps of the various districts have been constructed, and some of them published. The results of the whole, and a general map of the republic, will, it is expected, be soon published under the able auspices and superintendence of the members of this department. No sale or transfer of property can now take place in the province without a previous survey of it being made to the satisfaction of this department.

Few alterations have been made in the Spanish laws which regulated these countries; and these have been principally for the purpose of rendering them more applicable to the new political condition of the country. Their administration has, however, been much improved; judges have been made independent in the exercise of their functions; and justices of the peace, to take cognizance of all cases in the first instance, have been established in the city and all parts of the provinces, each being resident in the centre of his district for the administration of justice; an institution which has been attended with the most satisfactory results. The administration of justice is still, however, very defective in many respects. The plan of a new system has been prepared by the Camera de Justicia, which, it is expected, will be adopted; but it is objectionable in as far as it does not admit of viva voce evidence. All offences committed by the press are decided by the verdict of a jury, but no law has yet been made to regulate the impartial selection of persons qualified to sit on such juried; they have hitherto been chosen by the government, a pow er which appears very liable to abuse. The law of primogeniture does not exist in this country, the property of each parent, on his or her decease, being divided equally among all the children; an additional share, however, may be reserved and bequeathed by the parent to such of the children as may have been most deserving of such a distinction.

Since the commencement of the revolution this country has been deprived of the services of the Bishop of Buenos Ayres, who was a suffragan of the see of Lima. On that occasion the government assumed to itself the authority of the head of the church, the pope having repeatedly refused to acknowledge their independence, or to interfere in their church affairs; and it authorized an ecclesiastical senate to exercise these functions, which it did until the 23d March 1831, when, in consequence of his holiness having acknowledged the independence of the republic, Dr Don Mariano Medrano was selected from a list of two submitted to him for that purpose on the part of the government, and created Bishop of Aulon and apostolic vicar of the diocese of Buenos Ayres; and he has since been formally recognized as the head of the Catholic church of the Argentine republic. The authority has been transferred to him which had been previously exercised by the ecclesiastical senate under the auspices of government; but this transfer was not accomplished without considerable resistance on the part of that body. The long-continued suspension of all direct connection between his holiness and the church of Buenos Ayres has broken asunder the link which formerly bound them so closely together; and the general diffusion of education and intelligence has produced important changes on the public mind, which will prevent the Catholic church from ever again attaining that ascendency in this country which it once possessed.

During the early part of the revolution, the Catholic clergy, from their activity and influence over the community, exercised a considerable, and often pernicious influence in the politics of the country, being generally opposed to the introduction of improvements of every kind. It became, therefore, a primary object with the government, in its endeavours to remodel the political institutions of the country, to liberate itself from this source of distraction. Accordingly, most rigorous measures were pursued to introduce extensive reforms in ecclesiastical affairs. A board was named to take possession of the rents of the convents, and to examine the inmates and internal economy of these establishments; all convents were abolished which contained less than sixteen or more than thirty inmates; the retiring members of the suppressed convents were allowed a yearly salary, and permission to proceed to whatever place they might choose; and no friars were allowed to enter the province, without previously obtaining special permission from the government, while every difficulty was at the same time thrown in the way of further seclusion, by restricting the age of profession to twenty-five, and to those obtaining a license from the government. By these means many convents were suppressed, and their chapels converted into parish churches; and, under the new regulations, the service of the church has been performed with an efficiency and splendour previously unknown. The tithes were abolished, and funds provided by the state for the expense of the churches; and the salaries of the dignitaries and other ministers of the Catholic church were judiciously regulated. These measures of reform were carried forward with much vigour, and powerfully aided by the Centinela, a well-conducted periodical, instituted for the express purpose, and which exercised much influence on public opinion. These exertions proved so completely successful, that at the present time not more than one or two convents are in existence at Buenos Ayres, and the greater part of the friars who have not become secular clergy have left the province. Two nunneries still exist in this city, but their inmates do not increase in number; on the contrary, facilities have been afforded to those nuns who were dissatisfied with their life of seclusion, to liberate themselves from their vows, and to leave these establishments; a privilege which has already been taken advantage of in some instances. .

Since the commencement of the revolution a spirit of toleration has been forming at Buenos Ayres, and becoming stronger in proportion as their intercourse with foreigners became more extended; and it was so much strengthened by those vigorous proceedings of the executive in reforming the ecclesiastical affairs of the country, that at length the government were enabled to establish toleration legally, which had previously existed only by sufferance. In concluding a treaty with Great Britain, on the 2d o February 1825, it was provided that no British subjects resident in the united provinces of the Rio de la 1 l ata [7:5:657]shall be disturbed, persecuted, or annoyed on account of their religion, but have perfect liberty of conscience and of public worship’; the government reserving the right of formally approving of the formation of all places of public worship. This article of the treaty was sanctioned by all the members of the congress of the United Provinces, including eight of the secular clergy, with only two dissentient voices.

On the 12th of October of the same year the provincial legislature of Buenos Ayres enacted the following law in favour of religious toleration, which was sanctioned by the government, and has ever since been in operation. “Every individual in the province of Buenos Ayres shall enjoy the inviolable right of worshipping Almighty God in the manner which his conscience may dictate to him; and the exercise of this religious liberty shall only be subject to the regulations which are prescribed by good morals, public order, and the established laws of the country.” That practical toleration fully exists in Buenos Ayres, is proved by the existence there of one Protestant Episcopal church, two Presbyterian chapels, two Sabbath evening schools, and a Bible society.

Since the administration which accomplished these important changes in the religious institutions of this country ceased to exercise its functions, its successors have relaxed somewhat in the strictness with which the regulations were enforced, and some indications have been given of a desire to restore, in some respects, the exclusive system which formerly prevailed, but fortunately with little prospect of success; for the measures of ecclesiastical reform previously adopted were too efficient, and pursued with too much vigour and success, and the inhabitants have become too intelligent ever again to submit to the religious thraldom to which they were formerly subjected.

The manners and customs of the inhabitants of Buenos Ayres have undergone many remarkable changes since the country became independent. The general diffusion of education and intelligence, the extensive intercourse maintained by its inhabitants with other nations, and the influence and example of the numerous foreigners who have been temporary or permanent residents among them, have all powerfully contributed to improve their moral, intellectual, and social condition, and to place them in a position more in accordance than formerly with the present state of civilization in other parts of the world. In these respects they have made greater progress than any other of the new states, and exercise an extensive and beneficial influence on the moral and political opinions of their contemporaries all over the South American continent. The natives of Buenos Ayres are active, intelligent, and enterprising, and may be met with in most parts of South America, engaged in commerce, agriculture, and other branches of industry. They arc polite and affable in their manners, sober and temperate in their habits, and possess considerable vivacity and good natural abilities; they are, however, not remarkable for intense application or perseverance, but rather fickle, and prone to novelty, owing perhaps to the circumstance of their having lived in times so fraught with change and innovation; and this tendency is evinced in a variety of ways. They are fond of dress, and set the fashions to the other provinces, where, notwithstanding they arc imitated, they are often held up to ridicule for their attention to external appearances. Being now more occupied than formerly in useful and rational pursuits, they are less addicted than heretofore to gambling and other demoralizing amusements. The diversions of the carnival have been discountenanced; the cruel practice of cock-fighting has lost much of the interest and importance it once possessed; and bull fights have long since been abolished, as tending to brutalize the feelings of the community, and unworthy of a civilized nation.

The ladies, however, are by far the most interesting part of the community in this city. They possess the black eyes, delicate features, and handsome figures of Spain, and know well how to set off their charms to the greatest advantage, by the neatness and elegance of their attire and the gracefulness of their carriage while on the promenade. They are affable and unassuming in their manners, and possess great vivacity, but tempered with so much suavity of demeanour as tends to diffuse a charm over their society, which is very attractive, especially to foreigners, who are generally well received. Their evening parties, or ter-tulias, which are exceedingly agreeable, are frequent and well attended; they are diversified by conversation and a variety of amusements, and generally enlivened by music and dancing, in which they excel. The Spanish costume has now nearly become obsolete, and their dresses are generally modelled after the French and English fashions. The ladies of Buenos Ayres have in many instances formed matrimonial alliances with the foreigners settled amongst them, and have, with few exceptions, proved most amiable and exemplary wives. The social and domestic habits of the strangers, especially those from Great Britain, give them in many instances a decided preference over their own countrymen in the estimation of the fair sex of Buenos Ayres, as the latter are much more in the habit of passing their leisure and evening hours in the coffee-houses, or in other society, than in the midst of their own families.

The peasantry or gauchos of Buenos Ayres have many remarkable peculiarities in their character, arising from their manner of living and the occupations in which they are principally engaged. They pass the greater part of their time in the open air, and are almost continually on horseback. Their horses are saddled in the morning, and kept in readiness for use during the whole day, as no one. in this country ever thinks of walking even a short distance on foot. They are rather indolent in their domestic habits. They live in rude habitations formed of mud and reeds, possessing very few conveniencies, and only some rude articles of furniture. Their food principally consists of beef, besides which they possess few luxuries; yet seem very happy and well contented with their situation, having few external wants, and enjoying a considerable extent of personal liberty and independence. They are kind and hospitable to strangers, courteous in their manners, and often possess many estimable qualities.

Crimes of an atrocious nature, such as murder and robbery, rarely occur among them. Such deeds have occasionally been perpetrated during the civil dissensions, but have in almost every instance been committed by deserters from the army, and not by the peasantry of the country. As an evidence of the confidence which is with justice reposed in their honesty, may be adduced the well-known fact, that, until a late period, couriers and others have been in the constant practice of carrying quantities of gold and silver from Chili, Bolivia, and the interior provinces, to Buenos Ayres; and although generally alone and unarmed, very few instances have occurred of their having been robbed or maltreated. Travellers, both natives and foreigners, are continually traversing the country in all directions, and have in general enjoyed the same immunity.

The gauchos are all trained from their earliest years in the art of horsemanship, and acquire great dexterity in the management of their steeds and in the performance of all the evolutions practised on horseback. The throwing of the noose or lasso, and the bolas, at full speed, is generally performed with so much precision and certainty, that the animal they are in pursuit of seldom escapes. But to perform these feats in perfection requires mucn practice [7:5:658] and early training. It is customary to see little boys employing their mimic lassos and bolas in catching dogs, cats, poultry, and other small animals. In some parts of the country young boys first acquire the art of riding by being mounted on sheep, which are equipped with miniature saddles and bridles, and are rendered docile and easily managed by feeding them occasionally with salt, and otherwise treating them with care and kindness. Parties of boys may occasionally be seen proceeding to or from school mounted on these little chargers, and vying with each other in the performance or races and other equestrian exercises. A gaucho fully accoutred and mounted on horseback is one of the most independent persons imaginable, as he carries along with him almost every thing requisite to supply his immediate wants. The saddle is not only useful during the day-time, but at night serves all the purposes of a bed, and the majority of the peasantry never use any other. It consists of two portions formed of tanned leather; the largest is spread out on the ground, and the other part serves as a pillow. The jergas or coarse woollen blankets which are manufactured in the country, and some prepared sheep-skins, which are placed underneath and over the saddle when riding, serve all the purposes of blankets during the night, with the 'addition of the poncho. When on a journey, or employed at a distance from their habitations, they carry a supply of provisions in a pair of alforjas, or small woollen bags, and water in a pair of chiβes or bullock’s horns slung across the saddle. While on horseback they carry the lasso, coiled up and ready for use, one extremity being attached to an iron ring on one side of the saddle, and the bolas to the other side; by these means they often supply themselves with game and other articles of food when necessary. The lasso serves to secure their horses during the night, or they use two small portions of hide attached to each other, which are fastened to the horse’s fore legs, and arc removable at pleasure: this contrivance permits them to feed, but not to stray .to a distance. The Spanish bit or bridle is universally used in this country, and is considered as more secure than any other, giving the rider the most complete command of his horse, and enabling him to perform a variety of evolutions on horseback with great dexterity and precision. Their reins are formed of plaited hide, and variously ornamented; they are lengthened out so as to serve the purposes of a whip and other uses to the rider. The girths of their saddles are formed principally of a network of hide, into the meshes of which the rider can at pleasure entangle the large blunt rowels of his spurs, when requiring to secure a firm seat on his horse on making any unusual or difficult exertion.

The dress of the gaucho consists of a short jacket, with breeches or drawers open at the knees. A woollen or leathern belt is worn round the loins, to which they secure a large knife inclosed in a sheath, and a pouch containing tobacco, and the yesquero or tinder-box, usually formed of the tail of the armadillo. Their feet and legs are protected by bolas de potro, or boots formed from the skin of the hind legs of the horse or mare, to form which, the skin is cut round in the middle of the thigh, and above the fetlock, and then stripped off; the hair is removed by the knife, and in its moist and pliant state is drawn over the leg and foot, to adapt itself in drying to the shape of the limb, the upper part forming the leg of the boot, the bend at the knee being fitted to the heel, and the lower part covering the foot. They generally wear a handkerchief tied round the head, with the corners hanging down to keep them cool, and to avoid the annoyance of mosquitos in warm weather; over it is worn a small straw hat. The poncho, which is universally worn as an outer garment, is a most useful and convenient article of dress, especially on horseback, as it covers the whole of the trunk of the body, leaves the arms free, and, when of good quality, throws off the rain. It is composed of a cotton or woollen cloth, woven by the Indians, and is sometimes very handsome, from the tasteful display of the rich colours employed in its formation. Ponchos are from six to eight feet in length, and four or five in breadth, having in the centre a slit sufficient to allow the head to pass through; and they fall down in graceful folds before and behind, being variously ornamented along the edges. The value and richness of the clothing and horse accoutrements of the gauehos vary considerably, according to the wealth and taste of the individual, some indulging in silver spurs, and various ornaments for their horses of the same metal, but all of them partaking more or less of the same general character.

It is not intended on this occasion to give an account of the political history of Buenos Ayres, which with more ∣ propriety will merit consideration in the article La Plata; a few observations, however, on this subject are requisite to illustrate the present state of the country.

During the first years of independence, little progress was made in organizing the government, or in establishing the political institutions of the country on an efficient basis. The measures had recourse to from time to time were more calculated to serve temporary purposes than to produce permanent results. A variety of circumstances conspired to produce disunion and discord among the provinces, the greater part of which were in a state of complete isolation, with separate and independent governments, and by their provincial legislatures enacting laws much more calculated to promote individual and local interests than to favour the general industry and prosperity of the country. From these and other causes they were frequently at variance with each other, and all were more or less inimical to Buenos Ayres, which they viewed with a jealous and invidious eye, on account of its superior wealth, and the greater influence which it exercised in all public affairs. The authorities of Buenos Ayres were implicated in a plan to give a new form to the government, by the introduction of a foreign prince from Europe; but they completely failed in the attempt, not, however, without causing great excitement among the inhabitants, which terminated in civil war at Buenos Ayres and the adjoining provinces. These occurrences, however, interrupted the commerce with the interior, and occasioned great loss of life and property. During the year 1820, when these transactions took place, the changes in the government of Buenos Ayres were frequent, and the authority assumed was in some instances of very ephemeral existence; but this state of affairs was brought to a termination in October of the same year, by the forcible entrance into the city of the party under the direction of Don Martin Rodríguez, who was soon afterwards elected governor of the province of Buenos Ayres.

Under his auspices was formed an efficient and enlightened administration, composed of individuals well qualified to discharge the important duties intrusted to them, and unobjectionable to all parties, as they had been some time absent in the service of their country, and had taken no part in the political disputes which had previously divided the inhabitants. Don Bernardino Rivadavia, who had been in Europe on a diplomatic mission, and had become conversant with the institutions of those nations farthest advanced in civilization, became the leader of the new executive, and by the activity and energy of his character infused a degree of vigour into all their proceedings, which inspired general confidence, insured the ultimate success which so eminently attended their labours, and conferred important and lasting benefits on their country.
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The aspect presented by the various provinces at this period offered little prospect of success in any attempt to form an efficient general government by the union of such discordant materials. It was therefore deemed expedient, in the first place, to use every exertion to introduce an improved internal organization into all the provinces, although still in a state of separation, and more especially into the city and province of Buenos Ayres, by far the most important and influential in every point of view, and the best calculated by its example to produce beneficial consequences in all the interior provinces.

The attention and active energies of the new government of Buenos Ayres were therefore principally directed to remodel and improve the various moral and political institutions of the city and province, and the changes introduced were principally the following :—The provincial legislature was formed of representatives elected by the direct suffrages of the citizens; the persons and property of every one, foreigner as well as native, were rendered inviolable; and no imposts or contributions of any kind were allowed to be imposed, or any of the public funds to be expended, except by authority of the legislature. Publicity was given to all the proceedings of the legislature and of the government; and the public accounts of all the departments were published at stated periods. The imposition and collection of the public revenue were regulated on judicious principles, so as not only to augment the amount of the revenue, but effectually to put an end to the extensive contraband which had previously prevailed. The public expenditure was regulated on the most economical principles. The military officers, and others who had devoted themselves to the service of their country, were rewarded according to their respective merits and services. The debts due by the state were consolidated, and means provided for their gradual extinction. Afterwards, when circumstances had led to the accumulation of new debts, the sale of all public lands was prohibited, and they were preserved as a guarantee for the ultimate payment of the public debts. These lands, however, were not kept in an unproductive state, but rendered available for agricultural purposes by a judicious system of leasing. The administration of justice was also greatly improved, and rendered more efficient. The police and other municipal establishments were remodelled or improved, and rendered much more efficient than previously. Education in all its branches was encouraged and promoted, every facility being afforded to the general diffusion of knowledge. The liberty of the press was established and guaranteed to the community. Various important reforms in the church establishment were satisfactorily accomplished, and the enjoyment of complete religious liberty was established by law. Industry and enterprise were promoted, and every encouragement was given to the ingress of industrious persons from other countries. Savings banks were instituted to assist the industrious in the accumulation of their savings. The formation of roads, bridges, canals, and various other public undertakings of acknowledged utility and importance, was commenced and prosecuted.

Mueh energy, zeal, and perseverance, were exemplified by the government and their supporters in the prosecution of these beneficent plans for ameliorating the institutions of this country, and in their progress they were powerfully aided by the publicity given to all their transactions, which diffused general confidence; and by the judicious use of the periodical press, public opinion was prepared for the reception of these innovations. Tranquillity prevailed at this period over all the provinces, and a marked improvement took place in the general prosperity or the country, not only in the city where it commenced, but throughout the other provinces, where the example of Buenos Ayres exercised a great and beneficial influence. In these the progress of Buenos Ayres towards improvement was watched with much interest and attention, and the valuable productions of its press were received with the utmost avidity. The patriotic feelings of the inhabitants of the provinces were much excited by these occurrences, and the more intelligent among them directed their attention to the most effectual means of profiting by the example given them by their neighbours; accordingly, in some of the provinces, considerable progress was made in the improvement of their local institutions and government.

On 1st April 1824 some changes took place in the government. Rodríguez, having completed the legal period of his service as governor, was replaced in that office by General Las Heras. On that occasion Rivadavia, although repeatedly urged to continue his services, retired from office and went to Europe, leaving in the entire charge of the executive government his colleagues Don Manuel Jose Garcia and General Cruz, who, equally zealous and interested in the success of the measures which had been adopted, did not relax in their exertions to give them permanency. The improved state of the provinces, and the desire evinced by them for a general union, indicated the time as propitious to the formation of a general government. The authorities of Buenos Ayres therefore sent commissioners to the various provinces to make the preliminary arrangements; deputies were assembled from all the provinces; and the national constituent congress was formally installed at Buenos Ayres on the 16th December 1824.

The independence of these provinces had been already acknowledged by the United States of North America and Brazil; but on the 2d February 1825 Great Britain also conferred on them this important act of justice, by concluding with the government of Buenos Ayres a treaty of amity,’ commerce, and navigation, which was approved of and sanctioned by the general constituent congress, and was hailed with general satisfaction, from its connecting them so closely with one of the most powerful European states, and giving the new republic a respectable status among civilized nations. In the arrangement of this treaty much advantage was derived from the liberality and judicious policy pursued by Garcia, then minister for foreign affairs. Their independence was acknowledged by France in 1830, and by the Pope in the following year.

So many innovations in the institutions of Buenos Ayres as those which have been enumerated could scarcely fail to produce opposition on the part of those persons whose interests or prejudices were affected. The clergy in particular, in many instances, made use of the influence they possessed over the prejudices of the people to accomplish this object, and considerably augmented the number in opposition. An attempt was on one occasion made to overturn the administration by violence, and to awaken the religious prejudices of the community by raising the cry that their religion was in danger; but the attempt completely failed. This party did not renew these violent attempts, but still continued their opposition, becoming from various circumstances more numerous and united in their views. During the debates which took place in the national congress, they used their influence to thwart the policy recommended by the government party; and their number being augmented by the accession of many of the provincial deputies, an origin was thus given to the political party which subsequently assumed the name of federal (fédérales).

A dispute had subsisted during some years between the government of Buenos Ayres and the court of Brazil, in consequence of the occupation of the province of the Banda Oriental by the troops of the latter power; and all [7:5:660]the efforts of Buenos Ayres to induce them to retire proved ineffectual. During 1825 General Lavalleja landed with thirty-two resolute followers in the Banda Oriental; and having raised the standard against the Brazilians, he was speedily joined by numbers of his countrymen, and defeated his opponents in various engagements. 1he provincial legislature assembled, and requested that their province might be admitted into the Argentine confederation, which was agreed to by the constituent congress on the 25th October 1825. Upon this ground the emperor of Brazil declared war against Buenos Ayres on the 10th December; an example which was followed, on 3d January ensuing, by the government of Buenos Ayres, with the full concurrence of the congress. About this time Rivadavia returned from Europe, bringing with him from London the ratified British treaty, and was elected president of the Argentine republic on the 7th February 1826 by the constituent congress. The provincial government and legislature were then dissolved, and the duties of the former devolved on the president of the republic.

After prolonged discussion, the new constitution of the Argentine republic was completed, and subscribed on the 24th of December 1826 by all the members of congress. The form of government agreed upon was the representative republican, with unity of regimen; the representatives being to be chosen by direct suffrages of the citizens, the senators and president by electors chosen by the citizens. Each province was to be under a governor chosen by the president of the republic from three persons elected by the inhabitants, and assisted by a council of administration elected by the citizens. To become legal, the constitution required to be approved of by two thirds of the provinces. The final adoption of this constitution, which was considered by competent judges as well suited to the existing state of the country, was at first postponed, and finally prevented, by the active exertions of the federal party in the provinces, and the increasing difficulties and embarrassments of the general government, occasioned by the continuance of the war with Brazil. But this war had been carried on with a degree of success which rendered it very popular with the people. The contest was principally supported from the resources of Buenos Ayres and the Banda Oriental, as they received little assistance, even in men, from the other provinces; those sent from Mendoza and other places having been either intercepted, or so diminished by desertion, encouraged by the fedcrals, that few ever reached their final destination. The scarcity of funds at the disposal of the executive to carry on the wailed to the conversion of the private bank of discounts, which had previously prospered, into a national bank; an expedient which soon afterwards produced the most fatal consequences to the credit and prosperity of the country, and produced the great depreciation of the currency formerly noticed.

In April 1827 the government made an effort to terminate the war, by sending Garcia to the court of Brazil to negotiate a treaty of peace under the mediation of the British authorities; but the hopes of the government and of the people were frustrated by Garcia’s deviating so far from his instructions as to agree to cede the Banda Oriental to the emperor. This preliminary convention was disapproved of by the president of the republic and the constituent congress, and consequently was never ratified. Although no blame could with justice be attributed to the executive on this occasion, this transaction led to the cessation of that administration which had been paramount in Buenos Ayres for upwards of six years, and had produced such lasting and beneficial consequences to the country. Rivadavia perceiving that, by continuing in office, he could no longer preserve the honour or consult the permanent interests of his country, voluntarily resigned the presidency on the 27th of June 1827, and his example was followed by all his ministers. All prospect of forming a permanent union of the provinces having now vanished, the congress dissolved itself, and each of the provinces returned to its former state of isolation and self-government.

On renouncing the presidency, Rivadavia retired into private life, and having since principally resided in Europe, he has on no occasion taken part, either directly or indirectly, in the political transactions of his country. His merits as a practical politician, which are of the highest order, will be long held in grateful remembrance by the more thinking part of his countrymen, and will receive due homage from posterity; and the numerous and important institutions which he established and brought to maturity will serve as lasting monuments of his sound judgment and eminent talents. Had the same influence which proved so beneficial in the only province where his authority was ever fully established, been equally extended to the other provinces, they would by this time have undoubtedly presented an aspect of prosperity and contentment which would have formed a striking contrast to their present desolate condition.

Those persons who favoured the policy of Rivadavia, and advocated the adoption of the constitution sanctioned by the congress, were called unitarians (unitarios), and at first comprised a large proportion of the wealth and talents of the country; but subsequently they were joined by many others actuated by less pure and patriotic motives, who, in assuming the name, forgot the principles which originally gave rise to the distinction. The spirit of faction and of individual aggrandisement seems principally to have influenced the subsequent proceedings of both parties, and to have given origin to the numerous evils which have befallen their country.

On the resignation of Rivadavia, the management of public affairs was intrusted to Dr Don Vicente Lopez; and the provincial legislature having been assembled, Don Manuel Dorrego was afterwards elected governor of the province, and obtained from the other provinces full powers to manage all their foreign relations. Accordingly, under his government the war with Brazil was brought to a satisfactory termination in the latter part of 1828. On the army being withdrawn from the seat of war, many of the principal officers concerted measures to overturn the influence of the federal party in Buenos Ayres and the other provinces. On the 1st of December 1828, a movement was successfully made by General Lavalle in Buenos Ayres, and hostilities commenced with the ex-governor Dorrego. He was defeated and taken prisoner at Navarro on the 9th, and was shot without trial on the 13th by order of Lavalle. This arbitrary act, which cannot be justified on any principle, was productive of the most fatal consequences, by giving to the civil war that sanguinary and vindictive character which it has since maintained. Lavalle became governor of Buenos Ayres, but had to sustain a contest with the federal party under Don Juan Μ. de Rosas, who, possessing great influence with the inhabitants of the country, cut off his supplies, besieged him in the city, and at length obliged him to form a convention on the 24th of August 1829, by which Lavalle consented to relinquish the government of Buenos Ayres, and soon afterwards retired to the Banda Oriental. Gθ∙ neral Paz, an officer distinguished for his public and private virtues, as well as bravery, obtained the entire ascendency in the central province of Cordova, and· was successful in surprising and totally defeating the federal forces opposed to him, on the 25th of February 1830; but he did not, on this occasion, retaliate on his opponents for the great excesses and cruel assassinations they had perpetrated[7:5:661] on the adherents of the unitarian party, more especially at La Rioja and Mendoza.

A period of tranquillity followed the victory of Paz, who thereby obtained for the unitarians the entire ascendency in all the interior provinces; various attempts were made at conciliation, but without success; and at length both parties commenced preparations for the approaching contest. The civil war again commenced in the early part of 1831, with evident advantage to the federal party, who had at their command all the resources of Buenos Ayres, and numerous adherents among the peasantry. An accidental occurrence greatly contributed to increase the influence and power of the federals, and to dispirit their opponents; for on the 10th of May General Paz, while engaged in reconnoitring the positions of his adversaries, was taken prisoner by a small party placed in ambuscade. Soon afterwards General Quiroga carried the war into the provinces of Cuyo and La Rioja, and was successful in all his rencontres with the unitarians. He followed up his advantages, the unitarians retiring from Cordova to the province of Tucuman; and having met each other at Ciudadela, in that province, on the 4th of November, an obstinate and sanguinary battle ensued, in which the unitarians were totally defeated and dispersed. Thirty-nine of the principal officers, who were afterwards taken prisoners, were shot by order of Quiroga, and the remainder escaped into the province of Salta. The war was at length brought to a conclusion on the 4th of December 1831, by means of a convention formed between Quiroga and the authorities of Salta, in which it was expressly provided that all the unitarian officers should be obliged to leave the Argentine Provinces. ‘ Thus has terminated the civil war which prevailed with more or less violence during the last three years; covered these fine provinces with desolation and bloodshed; interrupted the progress of industry in all its branches; paralyzed the commerce with the interior; and greatly diminished the commercial intercourse of Buenos Ayres with other countries. The civil war has not, however, been the only cause of the depressed state of agriculture and commercial industry at Buenos Ayres; the long-continued drought which has prevailed throughout the province during nearly the whole of the last three seasons has been much more fatal in its consequences, as it has occasioned the total failure of the crops, and the destruction of multitudes of cattle, horses, and other stock. The latest intelligence from Buenos Ayres, dated 4th April 1832, intimates that this disastrous period had at length happily terminated by copious rains; that tranquillity prevailed in all the provinces; and that, as considerable quantities of produce were coming from the interior, commerce was expected to improve.

It will require some years of tranquillity and good government to restore Buenos Ayres and the other provinces to their former prosperity; but with a country possessed of so many natural advantages, and a population so elastic and enterprising in their character, that period under ordinary circumstances cannot be far distant. The federal party, who now possess the entire control over all these provinces, will have ample opportunities of proving how far the system of government which they have hitherto advocated is calculated to promote the happiness and prosperity of their country. A treaty of alliance, offensive and defensive, was formed in 1822, between the littoral provinces of Santa Fè, Corrientes, Entre Rios, and Buenos Ayres, the provisions of which, with little interruption, have ever since been maintained. In 1830 this alliance was renewed, each province binding itself to the adoption of the federal system of government. Since the termination of the civil war several of the interior provinces have indicated their desire to unite with these provinces; an example which will probably be soon followed by the remainder. But there are well-founded apprehensions that they will fail in their attempts to establish a federal republic at all similar to that of the United States of North America, which they profess to imitate; all the provinces excepting Buenos Ayres being deficient in population, wealth, intelligence, and the other requisites essential to the establishment of efficient local governments. As an evidence how imperfectly they know their true position and interests, it is sufficient to state that each of the provinces has its own custom-house laws, import and transit duties being imposed on all commodities coming from any of the other provinces. The only prospect of success amidst so many difficulties will be the formation of a greatly modified federation, in which, however unwilling the provinces may be to acknowledge it, the province of Buenos Ayres, from its advantageous position, and its greater wealth and intelligence, must necessarily maintain a decided ascendency over them; and if tranquillity can be preserved, time and experience will eventually convince them of their true interests, and remove the impediments which have hitherto prevented their union. The present institutions of Buenos Ayres have now existed in full operation during a sufficient time to establish themselves in the good opinion and affections of the community; and no apprehension need be entertained of their permanency, especially during the administration of the present governor Rosas, who has much influence in the province; while by his active endeavours to promote education, to encourage industry, and to civilize the Indians, he has merited the confidence and good will of his countrymen.

Wilcock’s History of Buenos Ayres; Brackenridge’s Voyage to South America ; Caldcleugh’s Travels in South America; Accountof the United Prouincesof Riodela Plata, translated from the Spanish of Nunez; Beaumont’s Travels in South America ; Memoirs of General Miller, (u u.)