NICARAGUA, one of the five states which compose the republican confederation of Central America. It is bounded on the south by Costa Rica and by the Pacific Ocean; on the north by Honduras; on the west by the Pacific Ocean; and on the east by the Mosquito shore, which is washed by the Carribbean Sea. From north to south it extends about seventy-five leagues, and from west to east about eighty-five. That elevated mountain range which forms the spine of the whole continent, called in South America the Andes, and in the United States the Stony Mountains, may be traced throughout Central America, although at a smaller elevation than in the two adjoining continents, dividing this country into two grand portions; the waters on the north of the ridge falling into those of the Atlantic, and those on the south running into the Pacific. This range has in Central America no determined name, and in many parts is even without a visible existence. It may almost be said to be interrupted in its course by two transverse valleys, in one of which is contained the Lake of Nicaragua, and in the other the plain of Comayagua. “But this interruption,” says Colonel Galindo,^[1. Journal of the Geographical Society of London, vol. vi. part ü. 1836. ] “is more apparent than real; for to the southward of the lake there certainly exists an elevation, which separates its waters from the Pacific; and in the extensive valley of Comayagua, the only one of the union which runs north and south, there is decidedly a central eminence, on each side of which the waters drain off to the respective oceans.” In the state of Nicaragua, the mountain chain inclines close to the borders of the Pacific, leaving the lakes on the east. The climate of this state is hot, and it yields excellent grapes and other fruits, cocoa, indigo, cotton, the gum called cavana, and various medicinal drugs. But the productions of the cold or temperate zones, such as wheat, do not thrive, and the soil is not favourable for breeding sheep. Immense herds of cattle, however, are pastured in the large grazing farms, for the consumption not merely of the province, but also of the city of Guatemala.

The most remarkable feature of this province consists in its numerous rivers and immense lakes. The Lake of Nicaragua, the largest sheet of water in Central America, is about 150 English miles in length, and about sixty in breadth. It has almost everywhere a depth of ten, and sometimes of fifteen fathoms, with a muddy bottom, except along the shore, where there is clear sand. This vast basin receives a number of rivers; but the only visible outlet to its waters is the river St John, which flows into the Atlantic, and forms about thirty considerable falls before [7:16:201]it reaches the marshy shores of the ocean. On the northwest it communicates with the Lake of Leon or Managua (upwards of fifty miles in length and nearly thirty in breadth) by means of a navigable channel called the Rio Tapitapa, about twenty miles in length. With regard to the grand canal by which it is proposed to connect the Atlantic with the Pacific through the Lake of Nicaragua, the following is the most recent information on this very interesting and most important subject.^[2. Journal of the Geographical Society of London, vol. vi. part ii. 183G. ] “It would be an important service rendered to geography, would any person endeavour to ascertain the levels on this line of road, and the physical obstacles it would be necessary to overcome to form a water communication. It is believed that some such survey has been set on foot by the government, or by a company of the United States. In the mean time, the only observations we have are from a Spanish manuscript existing in the archives at Guatemala, and copied by Mr Thomson,^[3. lhomson’s Visit to Guatemala in 1825, London, 1829. ] which states that the engineer Don Manuel Galisteo executed a survey in the year 1781, by means of a water-level, from the Gulf of Pagagayo, in the Pacific, as far as the Lake of Nicaragua; and that, by 347 levels, at about 100 yards apart, the surface of the lake was found to be elevated 133 ’ 11½ feet above the sea. But the lake is said to be fifteen fathoms deep, so that its bottom is still forty-six Spanish feet (one Castille foot is 0∙9267 of an English foot) above the level of the South Sea. The distance between the lake and the sea, at the proposed communication, is, by this measurement, only 29,880 English yards, or fifteen geographical miles nearly, and the greatest actual height of any part of the land is nineteen feet above the level of the lake. Thus we are assured of a grand natural reservoir of water at a sufficient elevation. But the practicability of communication with the Pacific, either by this line or through the Lake of Leon, or with the Atlantic by the Rio San Juan, or some great transverse valley, is not yet ascertained with any certainty. The coast-line has hitherto been very imperfectly laid down on our maps; but the recent survey of Captain Owen, R. N. now in progress, will doubtless remedy this for the northern coast.” It is also expected that the survey of Captain Beechey, R. N. on the coast of Peru, will reach this coast, and correct the errors which exist in all the maps of it that are to be met with. With regard to the undertaking itself, it appears to us insignificant, when compared with some of those which are frequently engaged in and successfully accomplished by the Americans of the United States, where canals sometimes five hundred miles in length are cut, and not unfrequently to a considerable extent through the solid mountain rock. We have no doubt that ere long this speculative and enterprising people will set this great work on foot, which will doubtless cause a revolution in the commercial world, and prove of incalculable utility to it. There are a number of islands on the Lake of Nicaragua; but the only one inhabited is Ometepe, and it is also the only one on which a volcano is found. This lake is subject to violent agitations from tempestuous gales of wind. The lakes, rivers, and coasts, both on the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, furnish an inexhaustible supply of various kinds of fish. The surrounding country is weil wooded, and much valuable timber, affording dye-woods and gums, is found in the forests; amongst these may be mentioned the dye-wood which is known by the name of the state. Some of the most populous villages of Nicaragua are likewise found in its vicinity.

Of the numerous volcanic eruptions which have taken place in Central America, one of the most appalling on record is that of the volcano of Cosiguina, situated in Nica ragua, near the eastern promontory of the Bay of Concha-· gua, which separates the waters of the gulf from the Pacific. This took place in January 1835; and as no convulsion of the kind ever occurred before on the same spot, it was quite unexpected. On the 16th and 17th of that month, continued noises were heard at a great distance all round, and were supposed at first to be caused by artillery; but during the following ten days, the violent earthquakes, the fall of showers of pumice-stone and ashes, and the deep darkness which overspread the country and the contiguous sea for many leagues, pointed out the true cause. The official report from the city of Leon states, that there, and in the department of Granada, “the catastrophe was not perceptibly felt until the dawn of the 25th, when the eruption developed itself to such a degree that the sky was darkened, and continued to deepen till eleven in the morning, when the district was enveloped in the most fearful darkness, terrific reports being at the same time heard, and showers of calcined lava being precipitated over the whole face of the country.” In other parts of the state, the same train of phenomena occurred, accompanied with the loudest thunder and the most vivid lightnings, together with violent convulsions of the earth. Two islands and a number of shoals were formed in the sea; the river Chiquito, which flowed towards the north-west, was completely choked up, and another river made its appearance flowing in an opposite direction. Two farms, along with a great quantity of live stock, were destroyed; and within the limits of the eruption there were afterwards found the remains of all kinds of quadrupeds and birds. Few of the human species, however, perished; and the damage done was inconsiderable, considering the tremendous nature of the eruption, an idea of which may be formed from the fact, that the sound was heard and ashes fell at Jamaica, more than 800 miles from Cosiguina. At sea, clouds of dust were discovered floating at a far greater distance from the scene of the catastrophe.

The city of Leon, the capital of the state, is situated in a savannah, about eight leagues from the western shore of the Lake Leon, and four leagues from the shores of the Pacific, in latitude 12. 20. north, and longitude 86.16. west. It was originally founded in 1523, on the spot now called Old Leon, but was rebuilt on its present site a few years afterwards. Previously to the revolution it was populous, and rapidly increasing in prosperity; but, along with the whole of the state, it suffered severely in that struggle, and has not yet recovered from its effects. Four leagues to the north-west of Leon, on the shores of the Pacific, is the town of Realejo, inhabited entirely by Ladinos, who are chiefly employed in ship-building. The harbour, formed by a large and beautiful river, is excellent, and capable of containing 1000 vessels commodiously. The conveniences for ship-building are great, as timber, cordage, sailcloth, pitch, and tar may be procured to an almost unlimited extent. The supply of masts is also inexhaustible. The town was built in 1534, by the companions of Alvarado, in his expedition to Peru, who, observing the advantageous situation of the harbour, determined to establish themselves on a spot so convenient and promising. At a short distance is the village of the Viejo, where the corregidors formerly resided, on account of the salubrity of its situation. The principal place in the vicinity of the Lake of Nicaragua is the town of Granada. This city was founded in the year 1523. It stands on the north-western shore, in an advantageous position for commerce (latitude 11. 30. north, and longitude 86. 21. west), being distant from Leon about thirty leagues. This place contains about 6000 inhabitants[7:16:202]. The town of Nicaragua, situated twelve leagues south-east of Granada, is inhabited by the descendants of Spaniards, who carry on a traffic in cocoa. But the place which is said to carry on the largest trade is Masaya, situated at the bottom of a deep rocky dell. The situation of this village was certainly ill chosen; water is very scarce, and the inhabitants are compelled to bring it up in pitchers from a well of extraordinary depth. Besides, at a short distance from Masaya is the volcano of the same name, now indeed extinct, but at the time of the conquest known by the name of the Infierno de Masaya; and the light of the lava constantly boiling up in the crater might be perceived at sea twenty-five leagues. Not far from this there is another volcano, called Nindiri, from which an eruption took place in 1775, when “the torrent of lava that rolled into the Lake of Masaya destroyed the fish, and heated the lands which it traversed to so great a degree that all the cattle feeding on them perished.” The only other places of any consideration in the state are Segovia Nueva, situated on the river Yare, near the confines of Tegucigalpa, thirty leagues north of Granada; Esteli, Acoyapa, Villa Nueva, Subiana, a very populous Indian village contiguous to the city of Leon, and Nicoya. The cities, towns, and villages in Nicaragua, and the other states of Central America, have municipalities, the members of which are annually elected, and the alcaldes or chief justices preside. Each of the states is governed by a chief. The inhabitants are chiefly Roman Catholics, but the monkish orders have been wholly extinguished, and the few nunneries which remain cannot compel their members to stay in them against their will. In 1836 Colonel Galindo estimated the number of inhabitants at 120,000 Indians, 110,000 whites, and 120,000 Ladinos; the total being 350,000 souls.

Nicaragua was the first province subdued by the Spaniards, having been discovered and partially settled by Gil Gonzales Davila and his companions in 1522. It takes its name from a powerful cacique, who was one of the first to enter into amicable relations with the Spaniards, and submit to baptism. The indigenous natives of Nicaragua speak five different languages. The Chorotec seems to be that of the principal indigenous tribe. It bears no kind of affinity with the Aztec or Mexican, which had been rendered common, previously to the arrival of the Spaniards, by the invasion of an Aztec colony. These new comers used a species of hieroglyphical figures for the communication of ideas, but the Chorotecs would seem to have been ignorant of writing. They reckoned eighteen months in the year, and had an equal number of great festivals. Their idols were honoured with a sanguinary worship like those of Mexico and their women were liable to be offered in sacrifice, although otherwise they exercised considerable power. The Spaniards, on their arrival, discovered palaces and spacious temples, and found some expert workers in painter’s gold. The bulk of the people, however, were in a state of barbarism and abject misery. (r. r. r.)