CAVAN, the most southern county of the province of Ulster, in Irelend, is bounded by the counties of Leitrim, Fermanagh, Monaghan, Louth, Meath, Westmeath, and Longford. Its form is nearly circular, with the exception of the barony of Tullaghagh, which projects in a northwestern direction between the two first named of the surrounding counties. It lies nearly in the centre of Ireland, midway between the Atlantic Ocean and the Irish Sea, its extremities being less than eighteen miles from either of these waters. According to the latest and most accurate calculation, its contents are estimated at 473,450 acres, or 740 square miles.

The most ancient geographers speak of it as being inhabited by the tribe of the Erdini. At the period of the arrival of the English, and for some centuries afterwards, it was known by the name of the Brennie, Brennie O’Reylie, or O’Reylie’s country. Under a commission issued by James I. for the subdivision of the county, it was portioned out into seven baronies, two of which were assigned to Sir John O’Reylie, three to his brother, uncle, and the representatives of another of the family, while the two remaining baronies, possessed by the septs of M‘Rernon and M‘Gaurol, being remote, and bordering on O’Rorke’s country, now the county of Leitrim, were allowed to continue subject to the exactions of the Irish lords, the crown reserving two hundred beeves upon the whole county for the lord-deputy’s provision. There was also an ancient subdivision of the county into small portions called polls, each containing twenty-four acres. It is now divided into the baronies of Castleraghan, Clonkee, Clonmaghon, Upper and Lower Loughtee, Tullaghgarvey, Tullaghagh, and Tullaghonoho. At present the county rates are levied according to a peculiar measurement. A certain number of town lands are united under the name of a carvagli, of which each barony contains a thousand, making eight thousand carvaghs for the whole county. Hence, if these were all of an equal size, which is not the case, as they vary with the superficial contents of their respective baronies, each would contain something less than sixty acres.

The county, according to its civil arrangements, under which the local taxes are levied, contains twenty-nine parishes, besides four parts of parishes, the remaining parts of which are in the adjoining counties, three in Meath, and one in Fermanagh; but, according to its ecclesiastical arrangement, into thirty-three, of which twenty-nine are in the diocese of Kilmore, three in that of Ardagh, and one in that of Meath. The bishopric of Kilmore extends over the whole of the county. The seat of the see is at Kilmore, a small town nearly in the centre of Cavan. According to the latest return made to parliament, the see lands amounted to 47,361 acres, but no statement was then sent in as to the pecuniary value of the see.

The population was estimated by Beaufort in 1792 at 81,570 souls; in 1813, according to the imperfect census then taken, it was supposed to be 164,000; in 1821, by the census of that year, it amounted to 195,076; and, according to the late but imperfect census of 1831, it was 228,050, giving an increase, in forty years, of 146,480 souls, or nearly double of its amount at the earliest of these dates.

The county sends two representatives to the imperial parliament. Before the union it sent six, two for the county, and two each for the towns of Cavan and Bel turbet.

The surface of the country is very uneven, consisting altogether of hills and valleys, without any level ground. The hills rise to a considerable elevation in the interior. The highest land in the county is the mountain of Slieve Russel, in the barony of Tullaghagh, on the confines of Fermanagh. In the same barony is Quilca Mountain, which is held in great veneration by the inhabitants, who relate many traditionary fables connected with the ancient superstitions of the country. It was also the place for installing the M‘Guires, the chieftains of Fermanagh.

The valleys arc, in many parts, the receptacles of lakes, which, though not of very extended dimensions, arc objects of much interest, from the picturesque beauties of their scenery. Lough Ramor, one of the largest, is in the southern extremity of the county, near Virginia. It contains several islands, once well wooded, but now mostly bare. Lough Gawnagh, in the south-west, may be considered rather as a boundary between Cavan and Fermanagh, than as exclusively belonging to either county. The same observation applies to Lough Shillin. Lough Ough-ter lies between the towns of Cavan and Killeshandra. Though not of very imposing dimensions, the irregularity of its form, the large and beautiful islands imbedded in its waters, and the many deep recesses studded with overhanging woods that wind among its high banks, produce a rich variety of prospect. The interest excited by its natural beauties is augmented by a circumstance of historical notoriety. Bishop Bedel, when taken prisoner during the civil wars of 1641, was confined in Cloghoughter, one of its islands. The castle, which was used as the prison of this venerable prelate, is still pointed out to strangers. Beclel’s remains were deposited in Kihnore church. 'The most remarkable of the smaller lakes, which are to be met with in most parts of the county, is Lough Swillan, in the neighbourhood of Shercock, it being considered by many as the principal source of the river Erne. According to others, this river, the largest in the county, derives its origin from the Lake of Scrabo, one of the minor sheets of water that form Lough Gawnagh. The river itself takes a northerly direction by Killcshandra and Belturbet, being enlarged during its course by the Croghan, Ballyhayes, Annalee, and other streams. It enters Lough [7:6:256]Erne at its most southern extremity, passes through it, and discharges itself into the Atlantic at Ballyshannon, in the county of Donegal. Woodside River, which skirts the county on the side of Fermanagh, falls into Lough Erne at the same place. The Shannon is said by some topographers to take its rise in Quilca Mountain, under the name of the Owenmore, which it changes for its more celebrated appellation on its junction with the Doubally, at the point where it enters the county of Leitrim, a few miles before it discharges its united streams into Lough Allen.

The climate of this county is chilly, and the weather often boisterous, particularly in the mountainous districts. The soil is a stiff wet clay, cold and spongy, producing a coarse rushy pasturage, beneath which is usually a thick stratum of brown clay, resting upon a heavy yellow argillaceous substratum. The soil is much improved by draining, for which its undulating surface affords great facilities, and by gravelling or liming. Limestone is scarce in some districts, yet much sought after; so that it is at times drawn from distances of ten or twelve miles. In other parts, particularly throughout the baronies of Castleraghan, Clonkee, and Clonmoghan, marl, which is met with very generally, is preferred to lime, as the latter forms hard lumps when mixed with the clay soil, while the former renders the soil loose and friable. A very fine kind of manure, formed of decayed limestone, is found in the mountainous parts of Tullaghagh. In the banks of rivers it is in great plenty; and about a mile from Swadlingbar there is a large pile of it, which, when used judiciously, produces most luxuriant crops.

Bog of the best quality, the red ashes of which form an excellent manure, is abundant. The upper part next the surface is dense and close, and makes the best fuel; that immediately under is friable, and therefore less valued as fuel. The bottom is solid and serviceable. In the moorish bogs, in which argillaceous strata are met with throughout the peat, marl abounds, and is very easily raised.

A rich iron ore was raised from Quilca Mountain, and long wrought with considerable profit. The ore was smelted at Swadlingbar, where mills were erected for the purpose; but the works were ultimately relinquished, in con-quence of the failure of timber for fuel. At Ortnacullagh, near Ballyconnel, fragments of lead and silver ore are carried down the stream. Pure sulphur is also found there. In this and in other parts of Tullaghagh barony, fullers’ earth, pipe-clay, potters’ clay, and brick-clay, are frequently met with. Fine white and red transparent spars have also been occasionally picked up near Fermanagh. There are indications of coal in Lugnaguilla, the most north-western point of the county. It is also said that this mineral has been found in the mountain of Slieve Russel, where it has been dug out of the side of the hill in blocks near the surface. Another vein is said to exist at Glasleek, near Shercock, of a very sulphureous quality, burning well, and emitting a bright blue flame.

These indications of minerals are accompanied with their usual concomitants, mineral springs. The most remarkable is that of Swadlingbar, which has long maintained a high character for its efficacy in restoring debilitated constitutions. Its predominant ingredient is sulphur. Near the same village there is a chalybeate spring. The small lake of Lough Leighs, or Lough-an-Leighaghs, which signifies the healing lake, on the summit of a mountain between Bailieborough and Kingscourt, is celebrated for its antiscorbutic qualities. Its waters are used for drinking and bathing; but the most beneficial effects are said to be produced by the mud raised from the bottom of it being rubbed on the diseased part. The level of the lake never varies. It has no visible supply nor vent for its discharge; neither is it ever frozen or changed in temperature during the severest winters. The water at the surface is clear; but within a foot downwards it becomes clogged with mud, which thickens as the lake descends, to a depth hitherto unascertained. The mud is drawn up for medical purposes from a depth of thirty feet, by means of a pole with a hay-rope twisted round it, to which it adheres, exhibiting, when exposed to the atmosphere, a greasy shining surface like tar. The water is slightly chalybeate. The best season for its use is from June to August. It is said to have been effectual in the cure of leprosy. Other mineral springs of inferior note are those of Derrylester, containing sulphur and natron; Owen Bruen, containing sulphur and calcareous nitre; and Carrickmore, containing calcareous nitre, alkali, and some sulphur. The water of the last named is extremely cold.

The general character of the people is highly favourable. They are much inclined to acts of kindliness towards each other; their hospitality to strangers is proverbial, and they testify the most laudable anxiety for the education of their children. Crimes of atrocity are uncommon. According to a parliamentary return in 1830, the total number of individuals committed for offences during that year was 171, of whom only 61 were convicted; of these thirty were for illicit distillation, seventeen for larceny, and the rest for assaults, cattle-stealing, and vagrancy. Domestic manufactures are generally combined with agricultural occupations. The culture of flax and the fabric of linens of coarser qualities formerly employed much of the time not required for the external labours of the farm; but this source of profitable employment has gradually declined with the general depression of the linen manufacture in Ireland. The farms are small, from thirty to seven acres, the smallest being the more numerous, in the proportion of ten to one. In the mountainous parts, where the land is chiefly under grazing, the farms are more extensive. Wheat and barley are but little cultivated. The hilly grounds are chiefly under oats, of which the more elevated parts produce a very hardy species, quite black. They are sown after one or two crops of potatoes; and these two vegetables form the principal part of the food of the peasantry. In the mountainous parts the plough is never used, in consequence of the rocky nature of the ground. The loy, a kind of spade long in the blade, with a peculiar curve to prevent the adhesion of the soil, is used in its stead. With this instrument the grain is trenched in high ridges. Twelve men can dig an acre in a day. The undulating nature of the ground, and the copious supply of water from the numerous small lakes and rivers, render the land well suited for draining; but this and other modes of improvement are in many instances checked, in consequence of the short and unsatisfactory tenure by which much of the land in this country is held under church and school land leases. The general character of the farming may be summed up in the expression, that the people are by no means wanting in exertion, but their modes of culture are defective. Most farmers prefer the old Irish breed of black cattle, because, though less inclined to fatten, they give a larger quantity of milk. The oxen of Lough tee barony arc an exception to this remark.

Illicit distillation was carried on here to a great extent. The lakes afforded great facilities to its practice. The grain was steeped in them, and the portable and cheap apparatus employed in the process was set up close to their borders; so that, in case of alarm, the whole could be flung into the water at a moment’s notice, and remain concealed till raised again for future service. The practice, so injurious to industry and moral improvement, is considerably on the decline.

The soil, in those districts not well adapted for tillage, [7:6:257]is peculiarly favourable for trees. Shrubs, which flourish vigorously in spi<e of the inclemency of the climate, spring out of the fissures of the rock on the mountainous districts. Throughout the barony of Loughtee, and more particularly along the rich tract watered by the Erne, timber trees are to be seen in great numbers. They are chiefly to be found in demesnes, where the gentry seem to vie with one another in their cultivation; so that the bareness of the landscape, too long a glaring drawback upon the natural beauties of the county, is every day less observable. The seats of the resident gentry are numerous and elegant. Lord Farnham has a noble mansion at Cavan. A fine see-house, now building by the Bishop of Kilmore, is nearly completed. Villas of much architectural and rural elegance are to be seen in various parts of the county.

According to the returns made under the population act in 1821, and by the commissioners of education in 1824-5, the state of education was as follows:
[table]

The religious persuasions of the pupils in the latter of these two statements were as follows :—Of the established church, 4004; dissenters, 922; Roman Catholics, 12,648; religion not ascertained 164. The number of schools was 346: of these, 280, containing 12,700 pupils, were wholly maintained by the fees of the pupils; and the remaining 66, containing 5039 pupils, were supported by the contributions of the higher classes, or by grants or endowments of public money. ∙

The population of the county is chiefly rural. None of its towns contains 3000 inhabitants, and but five contain more than 1000 each.

Cavan, the capital of the above county, has little to recommend it to special notice. It is situated near the centre of the county, in the parish of Urney, and barony of Upper Loughtee, on one of the tributary streams of the Erne. Its situation is pleasant and healthful, being a large valley, surrounded on every side by elevated grounds. A hill immediately above the town, on the Dublin side, commands a very extended prospect. The town was burnt down in 1791. The consequence has been that it has risen from its ashes in an improved form, excepting some of the suburbs, which consist of a succession of mud-built hovels, the seats of squalor and destitution too often to be seen in similar situations in other country towns of Ireland. The court-house is elegant in its proportions, and convenient in its internal arrangements. The church, built on an elevated site, at one extremity of the town, is also an elegant erection. Not far from the church is a large Roman Catholic chapel, which, together with a dissenting house, was erected at the expense of Lord Farnham, the proprietor of the town. In another quarter is the county infirmary, to the support of which the surrounding gentry contribute liberally. Six alms-houses for destitute widows have been founded by a bequest of a member of the Lanesborough family. The most conspicuous building is the grammar-school, one of the royal foundations of Charles I. It was rebuilt about thirty years ago, at an expense of L.7500, on an eminence overlooking one of the main entrances into the town. It is large and handsome, though by no means highly ornamented, and is capable of accommodating upwards of one hundred resident pupils. The master enjoys a salary of L.300 per annum, besides the fees from pupils, with an additional allowance of L.100 for an assistant; he has also the produce of ten acres of land adjoining the house. Notwithstanding these advantages, the residents of the town and neighbourhood have for some years reaped little benefit from this noble endowment, in consequence of the very advanced age of the head master; nor have their remonstrances to the board of education under whose superintendence it is, and which consists of the four archbishops, and several of the bishops, nor their application to the lord lieutenant, in whose gift is the disposal of the mastership, as yet been effectual in procuring for them the benefits of liberal education for their children contemplated by its royal founder. The sons of the neighbouring gentry, and of the respectable resident inhabitants, are therefore sent, at much expense and inconvenience, to distant places for their literary improvement. The county jail is a substantial building, but rather small for the average number of its inmates. A monastery of Dominican friars, founded by O’Reilly, chieftain of the Brennie, existed here; and it was the place of burial of the celebrated Irish general Owen Roe O’Neal, who died by poison at Cloghoughter in 1649. The town was incorporated by a royal charter of James I., dated 15th November, in the eighth year of that monarch’s reign. The population in 1821 amounted to 2320, and in 1831 to 2322. (Coote’s Statistical Survey of Cavan ; Shaw Mason’s Parochial Survey of Ireland ; Rutty’s Mineral Waters ; Lynch’s Geography of Ireland ; Reports of Commissioners of Educations .