LONGFORD, an inland county in the north-western extremity of the province of Leinster, in Ireland, is bounded on the north by the counties of Leitrim and Cavan, on the east and south by Westmeath, and on the west by [7:13:556]Roscommon, from which it is separated by the Shannon. It is amongst the smallest counties in Ireland, and the smallest but one as to the quantity of arable land; its contents being 263,645 acres, of which 192,506 are capable of cultivation, 55,247 are unprofitable mountain or bog, and 15,892 are covered with water.

The county, according to Whitaker, was peopled by the tribe of the Scoti, who spread themselves over most of the inland regions. Afterwards, under the name of the Annaly, it became the principality of the O’Ferrals. In the reign of Elizabeth, it was made shire-ground, being one of the seven counties into which Connaught was then divided; but it was afterwards transferred to Leinster, of which it still continues to form a part. It is divided into the six baronies of Abbeyshruel, Ardagh, Granard, Longford, Moydow, and Rathcline, which are subdivided into twenty-three parishes, all in the diocese of Ardagh, except one, which is in that of Meath.

The diocese of Ardagh, which was founded in the fifth century, was in 1658 united with that of Kilmore, from which it was subsequently separated, and, after being for some time held alone, was ultimately united with the archdiocese of Tuam, to which it is still attached; but, according to the new ecclesiastical arrangements, it is to be separated from it, and united with the sees of Kilmore and Elphin. No traces of the cathedral are now in existence. All that remained of it in the middle of last century was part of a wall built of large stones, which apparently had formed a portion of a very small edifice.

By much the greater part of the surface of the county is level, but in its northern angle it rises into bleak and rugged hills of no great elevation; and some hills also protrude in various parts of the plain country. The general surface is of considerable elevation, the summit-level of the Royal Canal, which is within the county, being 290 feet above the level of the sea. The general appearance of the country, though in many parts well planted and cultivated, presents few attractions to the lover of the picturesque. The only rivers of any size are, the Camlin, which rises near Granard, and flows by the town of Longford into the Shannon near Tarmonbarry; and the Inny, which has its source in Lough Shillin, on the borders of Cavan, passes by the southern border of the county, through a fertile and well-peopled district, and discharges itself, after a winding course, into Lough Reagh, being navigable from Ballymahon. There are several lakes within the county, but none of them of great extent. The most remarkable are Lough Gawnagh in the north, Derrylough, Lough Drum, and Lough Bannow. The fine expanse of Lough Reagh, on the western side of the county, may be considered as partly belonging to it. It has in it the islets of Innisbofin, Innisclothran, and Innismacsaint. Lough Derry-macar is merely an arm of this lake. The quantity of bog is considerable. The bog, myrtle, and larch, grow freely in it In some of the bogs are deep holes, which throw up large quantities of water; they are known by the name of swallow-holes. In 1809, part of the bog near Johnstown burst away from the main body, and moved to a considerable distance, crossing in its passage the river Camlin, the channel of which it choked up, and caused all the adjoining lands to be flooded.

The northern boundary of the great limestone field of Ireland passes through this county. The line of division is marked by the Camlin as far as Longford town, and thence proceeds by Johnstown to Lough Shillin. To the north of this line the formation is of clay-slate and greywacké. Isolated hills of sandstone show themselves at Slievegoldry and at Ballymahon, on both sides of the Iiiny. Indications of iron are abundant in the northern parts. Near Lough Gawnagh very rich iron ore is found, not in thin beds, as in Leitrim and Roscommon, but in solid rocks of a dark-red colour, and it breaks into small shelving prisms. Indications of coal appear in the same neighbourhood. Marble of fine colour, and susceptible of a high polish, is raised from quarries near Ledwithstown. It is much used for chimney-pieces.

A great portion of the northern part of the county is of a rough, untractable quality, affording little encouragement for agricultural speculations; but all the more level districts, where these are not covered with bog, are of a good quality. The soil is mostly rich, and of easy culture.

The statements of the population at various periods, with the authorities on which they rest, are as follow :—
[table]

The census taken in 1834, by the commissioners of public instruction, having been collected according to dioceses instead of counties, prevents any specification of it here. It is observable that the rate of increase diminishes considerably in the latter period of this statement; a circumstance to be accounted for partly from the greater accuracy of the mode of calculating the numbers, and partly from the increased pressure of population upon the means of subsistence. The proportion of Protestants to Catholics is as one to ten, but the number of Protestant dissenters is inconsiderable. According to the parliamentary returns, the number of children receiving education in public or private schools was as follows :—
[table]

Of the numbers stated in the latter of these returns, 1512 were Protestants of the established church, 7621 were Roman Catholics, 136 Dissenters, besides sixteen whose religious persuasion was not known. Of the total number of schools, amounting to 180, twelve, containing 870 pupils, were maintained by grants of public money; fifteen, containing 1003 pupils, were supported by voluntary contributions of societies or individuals; the remaining 153 depended wholly upon the fees of the pupils.

The county returned ten members to the Irish parliament, viz. two for the county at large, and two for each of the boroughs of Longford, Granard, Lanesborough, and Johnstown. It now returns only two county members. The state of the constituency was as follows at three periods, viz. 1. previously to the passing of the Catholic relief bill; 2. subsequently to that measure, but previous to the reform act; 3. after the reform act, viz.
[table]

The mode of tillage is such as is common throughout most parts of Ireland, namely, either ploughing up the lea, or manuring the surface highly and planting potatoes on it with the spade. The usual rotation of crops is, potatoes, bear, and oats. Wheat is also grown. In the vicinity of Ballymahon are some rich lands in a high state of cultivation, and tracts of excellent meadow. The low lands along the Inny produce a coarse kind of hay mixed with reeds; it is chiefly used for thatching. The black cattle and horses in the southern district are of a good kind. The breed of the former has been considerably improved by judicious crossing with the best English bulls.

The manufactures are confined to those which are necessary to supply the limited wants of an agricultural population. The principal are linen, frize, linsey-woolsey, for the garments of men and women, and leather for shoes and [7:13:557] harness. The Royal Canal, which passes through the centre of the county, has greatly increased the inland trade.

The peasantry are a shrewd, intelligent, and industrious race, fond of manly exercises and active amusements, such as hurling, wrestling, foot-ball, and swimming. Their pastime on Sunday evenings is dancing for a cake set up on a pole. English and Irish are both spoken. The most prevalent disease is fever, particularly in the hilly districts. Its access is generally attributed to the neglect of cleanliness and the poverty of the people. The climate in general is healthy. Several persons are known to have lived to the advanced age of a hundred years.

The customs of the inhabitants deviate in few particulars from those observable in other parts of Ireland. The first day of the year, month, and week are considered as the most lucky days for commencing an undertaking. Friday is one of the cross-days, therefore every one avoids removing to a new habitation on that day. A Saturday’s flitting is also said to make a short sitting. For a fortnight previous to Shrove-Tuesday, the great day for weddings, the boys amuse themselves by running in disguise through the villages, proclaiming the names of the parties about to be married, or whom they wish to have thought so. The first of May, Hallow-Eve, and Christmas, are celebrated with all the usual honours. Bull-baiting is one of the sports indulged in on St Stephen’s day.

The only vestige of remote antiquity worthy of special notice is a tumulus at one end of the town of Granard, said to have been a Danish rath, and called the Moate of Granard. It commands a view of six or seven surrounding counties. Though several ruins of monastic buildings may still be traced, few memorials of their history have been preserved. The erection of those at Ardagh, Lerha or Granard, Clonebrone, and Drumcheo, is attributed to St Patrick. Those of Longford, Abbeyshruel, and Ballynasaggard, were founded by members of the O’Ferral family. Abbey Deirg was built by O’Quin. A house of gray friars, dedicated to St John, gave name to Johnstown. At Lanesborough are some ruins said to have been part of a monastery, but no historical trace of such a foundation there can be discovered. The island of Inchi-more in Lough Gawnagh, and those of Innisbofin, Innisclothran, and Innismacsaint, in Lough Reagh, were each at some remote period the site of a religious house now in utter ruin.

The castle of Longford, once the mansion of the O’Ferrals, was taken at the commencement of the war of 1641, and the garrison slaughtered after their surrender upon terms. Castle Forbes, in the same neighbourhood, made a gallant resistance during the same period, under the command of the widow of Sir Arthur Forbes, until reduced by famine. Rathcline, placed in a highly romantic position near Lanesborough, was dismantled by Cromwell, and burned in the subsequent wars between William and James. The castles of Ballymahon, Barnacor, and Castlecor, were built to command passes over the Inny. Of these, the last named has suffered, not only by the ravages of time, but by excavations made in order to discover concealed money, imagined to have been buried in its interior.

The seats of the gentry are numerous. Carrickglass on the .Camlin, belonging to the Newcomen family, is a fine residence; as is also Castle Forbes, the seatof the Earl of Granard. Edgeworthstown will long be noted in the annals of British literature as the residence of the Edgeworth family. Castlecor, the seat of the Hussey family, and said to have been modelled after the round tower of Windsor Castle, is more remarkable for eccentricity of appearance than architectural elegance or domestic convenience. Tirlicken was built by Lord Annaly, near the ruins of a former edifice of the same name, the seat of Sir

Connel O’Ferral, which was forfeited in 1641. This county is also celebrated for having given birth to Oliver Goldsmith, a writer, the pride of his country, and the delight of elegant literature. He was born at Pallas, a village near Ballymahon, where it is said that the originals of much that he has enshrined in immortal verse in his poem of the Deserted Village may still be traced.

Longford, the county town, is situated on the river Camlin, in the midst of an extensive plain, interrupted only by the hill of Fenaghfadd, which rises to a height of 200 feet, at some distance south of the place. It contains a Protestant church and a Roman Catholic chapel, a gaol built according to the newly-suggested plans of classification, a court-house, an infirmary, and a market-house. It has a tolerable share of inland trade, which has latterly been much enlarged by the extension of the line of the Royal Canal through it, and also a market for yarn and unbleached linen. Here is also a brewery and several flour mills. Its population amounted in 1831 to 4354 souls. The other towns the population of which exceeds a thousand souls are as follow: Granard, 2058; Ballymalion, 1081; and Edgeworthstown, 1001.