SENEGAMBIA, a large country of Africa, on the Atlantic Ocean, lying between the rivers Senegal and Gambia, from the mouth of the Nunez to Portendik, with several adjoining districts, and extending from 8° to 18° 20' of north latitude, and from about 5° to 17° 30'30'' of west longitude. It is bounded on the west by the Atlantic Ocean, on the south by Guinea, on the east by Nigritia or Soudan, and on the north by the great desert of Sahara. This fine territory lies upon the western and northern declivities of the mountains of Kong, which here stretch from east to west in some degree parallel with the Gulf of Guinea, and is separated by the great valley of the Quorra or Niger from that part of the northern table or terrace land in which the elevated portion of Africa sinks into Soudan. The interior of this extensive tract of high land, called High Soudan, whose southern limit towards the Gulf of Guinea more especially bears the name of the Kong Mountains, is wholly unknown to us; but its general height is not more than two thousand feet above the level of the sea. It appears to be fine pasture-land, to have an excellent climate, and to support a vast number of African tribes. Surrounding it on the west and north, are those table-lands called the Wildernesses of Jallonkadu, which are only inhabited by wild beasts and reptiles, and through which Mungo Park travelled five days without seeing the face of man. But beyond these to the north and west extends a fertile country, rich in streams, which descend to the coast in a westerly or north-westerly direction. Immediately north from Sierra Leone the fruitful part of the coast is narrow, but enlarges as we proceed in the same direction, especially where the mountains on the middle of the Gambia fall back to the east; and on the Senegal it expands into broad plains, which reach to the foot of the highlands already mentioned. The principal capes upon the coast arc called Verga, Roxo, St Mary, and Verd. The low parts of this tract of country are reckoned amongst the hottest on the globe, the average temperature throughout the year being 63° Fahrenheit; but the heat is of course moderated on the mountainous districts and high table-lands. From November till the end of March is the[7:20:93] dry and healthy season, during which the nights are cool, and the east and north-east winds prevail. Between the dry and the wet season a period intervenes when those terrific visitations, the tornadoes, prevail, and which are in general accompanied by violent thunder-storms. During the rainy season the heat is suffocating and the air loaded with humidity. Bad fevers are then common, and multitudes of insects and crawling vermin swarm in the air and on the ground, the torment and terror of man. Towards the end of the rainy season the harmatta begins to blow from the Sahara, which, although troublesome in itself, dries up the soaked ground, and purifies the air from its pernicious miasmata.

The mountains of Kong are more rich in water than any other part of Africa. Great numbers of rivers of various sizes descend its declivities, and after traversing large tracts of country, find their embouchure in the Atlantic Ocean. The most important are, the Rio Grande, the Gambia, and the Senegal, each of which is described under its own head; the Rio Nunez, which originates in the high table-lands in the interior, and, without having a very long course, is abundant in water; the Katherine and the Domingo, or the Upper and Lower Geba, originating in the table-land of Mandingo, and forming during its course a large lake, whence a considerable river flows to the sea, where it has deposited an extensive delta. From this point to the embouchure of the Gambia, numerous rivers or arms of the sea intersect the flat coast like net-work, so that between 10° and 14° of north latitude it appears as if partitioned into numberless islands. In front of this maritime tract extends a long bank of sand, out of which the islands called the Bissagos have been formed.

The inhabitants consist of Moors and Negroes, which races present a remarkable contrast in respect to their physiognomy, hair, colour, manners and customs, and the like. To the last-named people belong the Jallofs, situated between the Senegal and the Gambia. They are a fine specimen of the negro. Their colour is of a deep glossy black, of which they are very proud, and also of their ancient origin. The Mandingoes, who are partly Mahommedans, are situated on the Gambia; but, on account of their trade, they have colonies scattered over the interior of Africa. The Soosoos lie between the sources of the Gambia and the Senegal. The Feloops are scattered along the banks of the Lower Gambia, in Casamansa, and St Domingo. The Serawoollies occupy the kingdoms of Galam and Senegal. The Serreres, or Seraires, are distributed in little republics on the borders of the kingdom of Kayor; and the Rappels are situated on the south side of the St Domingo, and on the Bissagos islands. The Foulahs, on the Senegal, the same race which in Soudan is called the Fellatahs, are not true negroes; they have silken hair, and a reddish or olive complexion. Amongst those tribes which have more recently become known to us, we have to mention the Timmanees, whose principal place is Rokon, on the river Rokelle, some miles distant from the colony of Sierra Leone. From their youth they accustom themselves so much to drinking palm wine, that they get into a relaxed and effeminate state at a very early age. The Koorankas are mixed with the Mandingoes. They go constantly armed, usually with a firelock and dagger. Lastly, the Soolimas are a gay, thoughtless, stirring race, whose principal town is called Falaba, not far from the sources of the rivers Rokelle and Kabba. The principal languages spoken are the Jallof, Mandingo, Serawool, Soosoo, Arabic, Portuguese, and many varying dialects formed out of these.

In the trade of Senegambia, the English, French, Dutch, Danes, and North Americans participate. The exports consist of slaves, which, however, are of less value than those of Guinea; skins of tigers, and other animals; wax, hides, ivory, gums, cotton, and the like. England obtains ivory and gold from the countries situated between Cape Blanco and Cape Negro, and gives in return such of her own manufactures as are required. The trade in gold amounts to 30,000 ounces yearly.

Of the numerous kingdoms and countries into which the vast territory of Senegambia is partitioned, there will be found described in this work, each under its own head, Βαμβοοκ, Bissagos, Bondoo, and Kajaaga. There still remain unnoticed a considerable number, of which we shall here present a brief account.

1. The land of the Foulahs consists of a number of provinces or kingdoms, interspersed throughout the tract comprehended between the mountainous border of the country of Sierra Leone on the west and that of Timbuctoo on the east, as also a large tract on both sides of the Senegal, and several districts on the Gambia; these provinces being insulated from each other in a very remarkable manner. The principal of the Foulah states is that within Sierra Leone, and of which Temboo is the capital. The next in order appears to be that bordering on the south of the Senegal river, and on the Jallofs. Others of less note lie between the rivers Gambia and Falemé; Foola-doo and Brooko are situated along the upper part of the Senegal; Was-sela, beyond the upper part of the Niger; and Massina, lower down on the same river, adjoining Timbuctoo on the west. Amongst other districts belonging to the Foulahs may be mentioned Morfil or Ivory Island, Bilbos, and other islands of the river Senegal. On the former is a French factory, at a place called St Podhor, which is fortified. A trade in gum is here carried on. Not fur from the sources of the Senegal, and three hundred and seventy miles inland, are situated, on the mountains of Kong, the towns of Temboo, which has eight thousand inhabitants, and Ladi, which has five thousand inhabitants. In both are Maraboot schools; and some trade is carried on in iron, silk, and leather. The other towns it is unnecessary to enumerate, nor can the whole number of inhabitants in the land of the Foulahs be ascertained. 2. Ludamar, situated on the borders of the Sahara. It is ruled over by a Moorish king, who resides at Benowm. On the borders of the neighbouring kingdom of Kaarta lies Tsharra, where the unfortunate Houghton met his fate. 3. The land of the Jallofs or Yolofs, comprising four territories or governments, and situated near the sea-coast, in the region between the rivers Senegal and Gambia. This country is rich in provisions, cattle, and poultry, and flourishes under a more regular administration than that of the adjoining states. The people manufacture cotton goods. The chief ruler bears the title of emperor of the Jallofs, and resides at Hikarkor, the principal town. The states separated from the Jallof empire, such as those of Baol and Cayor, are governed by a prince, who bears the title of Damel. 4. Sin, or Barb-Sin, for the most part situated on the north of the Gambia, has a hundred and forty square leagues of territory, and contains sixty thousand inhabitants. The regent, who is called Boor, has his principal seat at Joal, a seaport, formed by the mouth of the river of that name. There is a trade carried on in cattle, poultry, rice, slaves, wax, hides, and ivory. 5. Boorsali, or Salum, situated on a river of the same name, which discharges itself into the Atlantic in latitude 13° 44' north. It comprehends a surface of 1500 square miles, and contains 300,000 inhabitants. The principal place, and the residence of the king, is called Calyoon. Upon the Gambia are situated Kahan or Cahon, and Cower or Kayee, where cotton-weaving is carried on. 6. Bar or Barrah, situated at the mouth of the Gambia, has an area of 700 square miles, and contains 200,000 inhabitants, who arc Mahommedans. There are here public schools, so that it must have risen above the barbarism of most of the surrounding states. The country is tributary to Salum, and is governed by regents of circumscribed authority. The principal town is called Ba-[7:20:94] rinding; the others are Albreda, on the river Gambia, which has 7000 inhabitants, and Jellifree, on the same river, a Portuguese settlement, where there is also an English factory. Salt is the principal article of trade. 7. Badiboo, situated to the east of the former, on the right bank of the Gambia, is about 600 square miles in extent. The capital is a small place of the same name. The population of the country may amount to 150,000. 8. Yani, also situated on the Gambia. The chief towns are Pisania, where there is an English factory, and Jonkadouda, where are several other European factories. There is a trade carried on in gold, ivory, and other products of the country. 9. Wally, or Bembook, is situated to the east of the former, and is rich in wood, corn, rice, garden-stuffs, cotton, indigo, cattle, and fish. Malchme is the chief town, where resides the king, who exercises a limited sovereignty. 10. Wooli, a Mandigo kingdom, extends along the northern bank of Gambia, between Salum and Bondoo. The country is generally covered with extensive woods; the soil is everywhere fertile, producing cotton, tobacco, and esculent vegetables; and there are a number of towns situated in the valleys, which are the tracts chiefly cultivated. Medina, the capital, is a walled town, the residence of the king and state officers. It does not appear that this is a place of any considerable trade. 11. Gedumah, situated on the northern bank of the Senegal, and inhabited by nomadic Moors, who here find pasture for their cattle. It appears to be destitute of either town or village. 12. Combo, Foini, Caen, Jemaroa, Tom-mani, and Kolar, are the names of small kingdoms or territories, generally productive in rice, wax, goats, poultry, and the like, and in the principal towns of which are European factories. 13. The land of the Soosoos, which is situated between the sources and head waters of the Senegal and Gambia. This country is inhabited by an active race of men, who appear to live under a monarchy. From the conflicting statements of travellers and geographers, it seems doubtful if these people do not form a part of the Foulahs. 14. The land of the Fel∞ps, situated upon the banks of the Casamanza, and on the upper course of the Vintain, is about twenty-five leagues in length by fifteen in breadth. The country is very fertile, and the inhabitants rear cattle, which they defend with much courage against lions and other wild animals, with which their forests abound. Rice, goats, poultry, bees’ wax, and honey, are abundant, and partly exported. The population may amount to fifty thousand, who inhabit about sixty villages. 15. Kaboo is a territory situated on the upper part of the rivers St Domingo and Geba. It is subject to a king, who trades with the Portuguese in slaves, gold, and ivory. His residence, which is in the chief town, lies on the lake from which the river Geba flows. The Portuguese have here a settlement. Kaboo is very fertile in rice, millet, maize, indigo, and cotton. It is inhabited by a mixture of nations, chiefly Pagan Mandingoes, whose language prevails. 16. The important kingdom of Foota Torra, which extends considerably both to the north and south of the middle Senegal, but whose interior has not yet been explored by Europeans. There are a number of other kingdoms or territories in Senegambia, but they do not require particular notice. The most distinguished are the kingdom of Jallonkadoo, in which the river Senegal takes its rise; and the kingdom of Soolimana, which extends along the rocky Rokelle, and the Camaranca and Mungo.

Besides those places we have mentioned as possessing European factories, the English, French, and Portuguese have also settlements. The English have factories on the rich gum coast at Portendik, to the north of the Senegal; the island of James, situated a few miles from the mouth of the Gambia, with the fort of the same name; the island of Boolam, with a secure and spacious harbour, and formerly one of the Sierra Leone Company’s stations, for promoting civilization amongst the Indians, for assisting in putting down the slave-trade, and for cultivating West Indian products; and the island of St Maria, on the Gambia, with twelve thousand inhabitants.

The French possess the island of St Louis or Senegal, at the mouth of the river of the same name, with 16,130 inhabitants, and the Fort St Louis, whence ships proceed on their voyage up the Senegal; but navigation is very much embarrassed by a dangerous bank across the mouth of the river. The trade between this place and the mother country was at one time very considerable, amounting to L.750,000 annually; and the English disposed of an equal amount of goods on the Gambia. At the French settlement a considerable quantity of cotton is still grown, and gum collected. The names of the other places are, the island of Goree, which is separated from the mainland by the canal of Dakar, 1500 toises in breadth. It is a great basaltic rock, with a town upon it, which bears the same name, and a fort, which bears that of St Michael. The French have also in the neighbourhood of Cape Verd a place called Riofresco. On the left bank of the Senegal is the settlement of Bakel, a hundred and five miles from St Louis, to which there is a steam-boat sent annually with goods. There are, besides, St Charles, formerly called Fort St Joseph; and the islands of Babaghee, Safal, and Geber.

The Portuguese possess St Cachao or Cacheu, situated on the north-east of the island of Bassao, at the mouth of the river St Domingo, in the kingdom of Koombo. It is fortified, has a Catholic church and a monastery, is the seat of a Portuguese governor, trades with the Cape Verd and Azore Islands, and contains 8000 inhabitants. The Portuguese also possess the island of Bissago, and the posts of Farim, Zeguichor, and Geba, which belong to the government of Cape Verd. (r . r . r .)