PAISLEY, the principal town of Renfrewshire, and, in point of manufacturing importance and population, the second in Scotland, is finely situated on the banks of the White Cart, about three miles south of the river Clyde. The ancient and principal part of the town occupies the summit and slopes of a beautiful declivity, the eastern base of which is washed by the river, which divides the burgh into two parts, that on the east side being styled the New Town, from its more recent erection. Paisley is generally considered as the ancient Vanduaria of Ptolemy, and as having been a Roman town or station during the presence of these invaders in the northern part of Scotland. As late as the beginning of the last century, considerable vestiges remained of a Roman camp on the western side of the hill on which Paisley is built; but these have long since been obliterated by the progressive extension and improvement of the town. The latitude of Paisley is 55. 48. north, and the longitude 4. 26. west. The climate is temperate, but humid. Inflammatory and pulmonary complaints are prevalent, and infectious diseases have been of rather frequent occurrence in its history. In 1645, a pestilence committed great ravages in this place; and in 1765 dysentery prevailed to an alarming extent. In 1771, pleurisy carried off numbers of the inhabitants; and a virulent influenza visited it in 1803, 1830, 1831, and in the beginning of 1837. Paisley is not, however, considered as unhealthy, nor is its mortality above the average of other large manufacturing cities. Whether the Roman town or station called Vanduaria was a place of any size or importance, ancient chronicles are entirely silent. A dark cloud overhangs the history of Paisley till about the year 1163, when Walter, the first Stewart, founded a monastery on the eastern bank of the Cart, opposite to what is now termed the Old Town of Paisley. At this period there does not appear to have been a village or hamlet, however small, in existence; but the protection which the monastery afforded in those rude times, and the multitude of pilgrims, travellers, and persons of distinction, who frequented it, gradually induced a population to assemble in its vicinity; and a village of some extent made its appearance on the western bank of the river, and began slowly to clamber up the gentle slope of the hill on that side. In 1220, the monastery was elevated to the dignity of an abbey, and many valuable privileges were subsequently conferred upon it by the pope, and by its founder and successive patrons. Its jurisdiction and revenues were very extensive, extending to, and being derived from, localities at a great distance; its abbots were commonly men of the highest family connections, and appear frequently as prominent actors on the stage of Scottish civil and ecclesiastical history. After the Reformation, the revenues and privileges of this ecclesiastical establishment were bestowed upon Lord Claud Hamilton, and have since become the property, though greatly reduced, of the noble family of Abercorn. A considerable part of the ancient abbey still remains, and is in excellent preservation. The skeleton of a beautiful window, thirty-five feet in height by eighteen in breadth, almost the only fragment of the more ancient part of the building, has been much admired for its size, lightness, and fine proportions. The external architecture of the remaining portion is perhaps scarcely equal to that of some other ecclesiastical edifices in Scotland; but the appearance[7:16:734] of the nave, which is occupied as a parish church, is grand and striking in no ordinary degree; and some few fragmentary remains of the old monastery exhibit fine specimens of the purest Gothic. Before the accession of the Stuart family to the throne of Scotland, their burying-place was in the abbey; and even after that event, two of its members were interred there, namely, the queen of Robert II. in 1387, and Robert III. in 1406. The tomb of Marjory Bruce, the daughter of Robert I. is still to be seen in the famous sounding aisle, now occupied as a burial-vault by the Abercorn family.

Notwithstanding the wealth and manufacturing importance of Paisley, it is only a burgh of barony; but its privileges are so very considerable as almost to equal those of a royal burgh. Previously to 1770, the burgh had a vote in the election of a member of parliament for the county. Now, by the Scottish Reform Act, Paisley sends a member to represent it in parliament. The constituency in 1837 was 1484. Formerly the government of the town was vested in a provost, three bailies, and seventeen councillors; but by the. Scottish Burgh Reform Act there are now a provost, four bailies, and ten councillors.

In 1553, John Hamilton, the last abbot, conveyed, by a deed, the revenues and privileges of the abbacy to Lord Claud Hamilton, then a child of ten years of age: he was afterwards deprived of the latter, on account of his adherence to the fortunes of Queen Mary, but in 1591 they were restored, with the title of Lord Paisley. In 1653, the second Earl of Abercorn disposed of his interest in the abbacy to the Dundonald family; and in 1658 the magistrates and council purchased this superiority, and since that time Paisley has held directly of the crown. The old valuation of the burgh-lands was a thousand pounds Scotch. The town’s revenue, from various sources, such as lands and houses, river-dues, and various other civic items, amounts to L.3843. 12s. 7d., and the supposed value of the burgh property is about L.50,000; but, deducting debts and other obligations, its nett amount may be L.20,000.

The topography of Paisley and its vicinity is not very remarkable. Previously to the year 1736, the whole of this district was included in one parish, known by the name of the parish of Paisley; but since that time the burgh has been divided into three parishes, the High, the Middle, and the Low. The Abbey parish now comprehends the New Town, which, with a trifling exception, is separated from the burgh by the river Cart, and the populous villages of Johnstone, Elderslie, Thorn, Quarrelton, Nitsil, Hurlet, and Dovecote Hall, with the country districts. To the north, and affording a noble view from the eminence on which Old Paisley is chiefly built, extends the great plain of the lower valley of the Clyde, anciently called Strathgryfte. On the south, the Gleniffer, or Paisley Braes, distant about three miles, swell gently up to the height of 760 feet above the surface of the Cart. The soil is of a mixed character, generally poor and thin, but in many places rich and fertile. From the heights just mentioned descend a variety of minor streams, of great utility to the agriculturist and the manufacturer, and adding to the richness and beauty of the scenery. The surface of the country in the neighbourhood, with the exception of that to the north, which is flat, is agreeably diversified, and broken into gentle swells and soft declivities, which, with the mixture of gentlemen’s seats, farm-houses, bleachingfields, and other public works, confers a picturesque and animated character upon the entire vicinage. Valuable minerals abound in the parish, such as coal, limestone of the coal formation, and ironstone; though the latter is not smelted, at least to any extent, but is sent to the Lanarkshire furnaces. There are very extensive coal-pits wrought in the neighbourhood, chiefly at Johnstone; and in that vicinity, and at Hurlet, the chemical works of the Messrs

Wilson at Thornly are on a very large scale. Very fine freestone is also obtained in the neighbourhood.

As it is chiefly, however, to its being one of the principal manufacturing stations in the kingdom that Paisley owes its celebrity, we shall now present a brief sketch of the history, progressive improvement and increase, and present extent, of its principal manufactures. There is no certain account as to the precise period when the art of weaving was introduced. It appears, however, that the manufacture of linen was carried to a considerable extent during the last century. Shortly after the union, the spirit of manufacturing enterprise sprung up in the west of Scotland, and Paisley was not slow in availing itself of the general impulse. Craufurd, describing the state of Paisley in 1710, observes, “That which renders this place considerable, is its trade of linen and muslin, where there is a great weekly sale in its markets, of those sorts of cloth; many of the inhabitants being chiefly employed in that sort of manufactory.” From 1744 to 1784 the linen manufacture increased in amount from L.18,886. 15s. 10d. to no less than L.184,385. 16s. 6½d. About the year 1722, the manufacture of linen thread was introduced into Paisley, and carried on to a large extent. For several years it reached the amount of L.l 00,000 annually. Cotton thread, having superseded that made from linen yarn, is manufactured to a very considerable extent, and forms one of the principal manufactures of the place. In 1760, silk gauze began to be manufactured in Paisley; and in a short time the skill and ability with which this manufacture was prosecuted caused its abandonment by the manufacturers of Spitalfields, the original seat of the silk manufacture in Great Britain. This manufacture flourished extensively until near the close of the last century. From 1772 there existed also a considerable manufacture of ribbons, and other articles in silk. It has been calculated, that in 1784 the value of the manufactures of Paisley, in silk gauzes and other silk goods, linen lawns, linen gauze, and sewing thread, was L.579,185.16s. 6d., and that in 1769 it amounted to L.660,385.16s. sterling. In 1744, only 867 looms were employed in the weaving of linen; and forty years afterwards no fewer than 5000 looms were engaged in the manufacture of silk, the produce of which amounted to L.350,000.

Towards the end of the last century, from the caprice of fashion, and the gradual introduction of the cotton manufacture, the making of silk goods declined rapidly; but a new species of manufacture sprung up, which has since been carried to a much greater extent. The manufacture of shawls, of cotton, silk, and fancy woollen fabrics, was introduced, and has now become the staple trade of Paisley. Although little more than forty years have elapsed since its introduction, this manufacture is so extensive, that in 1834 the value was calculated to be about a million sterling; and since then it is understood to have increased considerably.

Previously to the present century, fine shawls had been manufactured in this country, chiefly at Norwich and Stockport in England, where they were made in imitation of the rich India shawls. The latter, from their high price, were beyond the reach of all but a few wealthy individuals, when the manufacturing skill and enterprise of Paisley embarked in the manufacture, and, by successive inventions and improvements in the loom, and in the kind and quality of the materials, prosecuted for a long series of years, succeeded in realizing a nearly perfect imitation of those oriental fabrics, in colours, texture, and design, and at a mere fraction of the cost. Besides the extraordinary cheapness, the variety of new and beautiful fabrics and designs which have been introduced into the shawl manufacture have largely contributed to its extent and success. The manufacture of shawls is almost wholly confined to Paisley; but a considerable proportion of these find their way to the [7:16:735]Glasgow markets for home and foreign sale. The kinds produced are various in quality and cost, and there is a great variety in the styles and fabrics. Some are wholly made of silk, but these are not now much in demand; others of silk and cotton, and a great many of Persian and fancy wools mixed with both or either. Thibet-cloth shawls, a very rich and fanciful fabric; Chenille shawls, a beautiful imitation of silk velvet; Canton crape shawls; and various other and newer kinds, of every possible variety in size, texture, pattern, and price; are produced from the looms of Paisley, with a rapidity and abundance which, whilst it tends occasionally to overload the market, affords satisfactory evidence of the manufacturing skill and resources of Paisley. The present annual amount of the trade and manufactures of Paisley has been roughly calculated at nearly two millions sterling. To give any thing like a view of the various inventions and improvements in the art of weaving, by means of which Paisley has attained its present eminence as a chief seat of the silk and cotton manufactures in Scotland, would swell this article beyond all due bounds. The hasty sketch which we have supplied affords some general data to the reader, who may consult, if he wishes for more minute information, Wilson’s Survey of Renfrewshire; Craufurd’s Description of the Shire of Renfrew, with Robertson’s continuation; and the New Statistical Account of Scotland. The spinning of cotton yarn is also extensively carried on by Paisley manufacturers in the town and parish, but there are no data to be relied on for ascertaining its annual amount. Bleaching and dyeing are, as might be expected, prosecuted to a very considerable extent. Soap-making is a trade of some antiquity and importance; and malting, the distillation of raw spirits, and silk throwing, have also a considerable capital embarked in them.

Under the head of General Statistics we may notice the increase of the population in Paisley from 1791 to 1835. In 1695 the population of the town of Paisley, exclusively of the Abbey parish, where there were then very few houses, was only 2200. In 1755, sixty years after, it amounted in the town and Abbey parish to 6799; and in 1781 to 11,100 in the town alone, the population of the Abbey parish not being given in the register.

In 1791 the total population was 24,592 ... 1801 31,179

... 1811 36,722

... 1821 47,003

... 1831 57,466

The population may now be assumed at about 65,000, according to the ordinary increment of increase. Thursday is the market-day in Paisley, and there are four fairs annually, which last three days each. The races at St James’s Fair are well known in the west of Scotland, and attract great numbers from the surrounding districts. For the last three or four years these races have been much frequented by the sporting world. Race-horses of high celebrity have made their appearance on the course; and a greal deal of money, it is understood, has changed hands. Paisley is abundantly supplied with the means of external communication; and when the Ayrshire and Greenock railways are completed, few towns in the empire will possess equal facilities for traffic or travelling. By the canal betwixt Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone, no fewer than 423,186 passengers were conveyed, from the first of October 1835 to the first of October 1836. From the latter period, however, to the first of October 1837, the number had decreased to 386,157, owing to other means and modes of locomotion being opened up. After the railway to the Clyde near Renfrew, which is from two to three miles in length, was opened, in the spring of 1837, about 50,000 passengers passed along it, going up and down the river, during the first seven months; and no fewer than 100,000 persons were carried by coach to and from Glasgow, from October 1836 to the same time in 1837. The carriage of goods on the canal has increased from 48,991 tons in 1831, to 67,305 tons in 1836. The yearly returns of the post-office afford additional evidence of the growing prosperity of Paisley.

In 1720 the amount was only L.28 13 0

... 1769 223 3 8

... 1809 2814 17 4

... 1834 3194 0 0

The river Cart is navigable to Paisley for vessels of from sixty to eighty tons burthen; but the improvements in progress upon the river, by deepening, and removing various other obstacles to the navigation, for which an act of parliament has lately been obtained, are expected greatly to increase the facility of external traffic. The river dues in 1835 amounted to L.260. An act of parliament has also been obtained to make a cut from the Forth and Clyde Canal, to enter the Clyde as near as possible to the confluence of the Cart with that river; an undertaking which will be highly advantageous to the Paisley manufacturers, by affording them a cheaper and more expeditious transit for their goods to London and the continental markets, for which a large portion of their manufactures are prepared.

The antiquities of Paisley, with the exception of its abbey, of which we have already spoken, are hardly worth mentioning. There are a few old castles in the vicinity, in a state of lesser or greater dilapidation; but, with the exception of that of Crookston, once the property of the family of the feeble and worthless Darnley, and which, from its commanding situation on a richly-wooded slope, about four miles to the east of Paisley, and its air of venerable antiquity, forms a most picturesque feature in the general landscape, none of them possesses much interest, either historically, or as agreeable accessories in the general scenery.

Notwithstanding the enterprising and intellectual character of the inhabitants of Paisley, the means of education are not so abundant as might be expected. From a report by the presbytery to the General Assembly in 1834, the number of schools in the town and Abbey parish was only sixty-five, and the scholars amounted to 4776. Since then, however, considerable exertions have been made to remedy this deficiency. Government lately granted L.700 to the burgh for educational purposes; and this sum, aided by liberal subscriptions from the citizens, and the exertions of the general session and various philanthropic individuals, has provided the means of education for a large additional number.

The town is well lighted with gas, and an act of parliament has lately been obtained by a public company to supply it with water from the neighbouring heights. The assessment for the poor for 1838 is L.3500 for the three town parishes. The only public building in Paisley of any importance, with the exception of the abbey, is the countyjail and public offices, an edifice of considerable extent, castellated in style, and standing in a fine situation on the western bank of the Cart. The news-room at the cross is also a handsome building. There are three bridges over the Cart, connecting the Old and New Town of Paisley, but none of them is particularly remarkable.

The civil history of Paisley affords little to interest or deserve the attention of the general reader. Its ecclesiastical history is curious and interesting, but supplies few points sufficiently salient and compact to be entered upon in so brief a sketch. The famous “Black Book of Paisley,” which was long supposed to have been a history of Paisley and its monastery, has been ascertained to be the Scoti-chronicon of Fordun, a monk of the fourteenth century. Manuscript copies of this curious old work, with continuations by Bowmaker and others, are in the College Library[7:16:736] at Edinburgh, and in the British Museum. The Chartulary or Register of the Monastery of Paisley, printed in 1832, at the expense of the Earl of Glasgow, president of the Maitland Club, is a valuable document, containing much curious information respecting those primitive times. Previously to the Reformation, Paisley was a place of little importance. The neighbourhood of its abbey, however, with the presence of its lordly abbots and their distinguished guests, conferred upon it considerable dignity even then, and drew into it the neighbouring gentry, who, down to a comparatively recent period, had family mansions in the town. The inhabitants early embraced the doctrines of the Reformation, notwithstanding the naturally adverse influences of their great monastic establishment; and displayed their attachment to these on various occasions during the civil wars and prelatical persecutions of the seventeenth century. In 1715 and 1745, they showed equal zeal for the house of Brunswick; and the burgh had to pay a fine of L.500 to the Young Chevalier,‘at the latter period, as a composition for its anti-Jacobite predilections. The magistrates afterwards memorialized government for compensation, but they never obtained it. In 1597, the queen of James VI. honoured the inhabitants with a visit to their town, when it would appear that the royal entertainment fell so heavy on the burgh funds, that in 1617, when her royal consort also visited it, the civic dignitaries prudently forbore so costly a welcome, but in lieu thereof employed “a prettie boy, a son of a Sir James Semple of Beltrees,” to make him a speech, which, from the extracts of it we have seen, was judiciously spiced for James’s royal ear. Its modern history is comprised in the progress of its manufactures, and the improvement of the town in all its interests and appearances, of which we have supplied this brief analysis.