FLORIDA, a country of North America, now belonging to the United States. It is about 450 miles in length, and has an average breadth of about 120 miles. It is comprehended between the parallels of 80. 25. and 87. 20. W. long, and 25. and 31. N. lat. Formerly it was separated into two political divisions, whose geographical limits were strongly marked by nature, viz. East and West Florida. But this division has ceased to exist, and the two Floridas now constitute one government. It is bounded on the north by Alabama and Georgia, on the east by the Atlantic Ocean, and on the south and west by the Gulf of Mexico - The northern part of the western boundary ι⅛ formed by the river Perdido, which separates it from Alabama. Florida formerly extended as far west as the Mississippi, the northern boundary being formed by St Mary s River from the ocean to its source, thence by a right line to the point where Flint River unites with the Appalachicoa, thence up the Appalachicoa to the parallel of a 31. N. and thence due west on that parallel to the Mississippi. The part lying between the Mississippi and Fear River is now included in the state of Louisiana; and the part between the Pearl and the Perdido, in the states of Mississippi and Alabama. The part east of the Perdido is under the territorial government of Florida. It is supposed that this country contains about twenty-four millions of acres of marketable land.
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It is now generally admitted that Florida was discovered in 1497 by Sebastian Cabot. In 1512, however, it was more fully explored by the Spaniards under Juan Ponce de Leon, who gave this region its name from Pasqua Florida, or Palm Sunday, probably the day on which land was descried. For a long time the name was general, in Spanish works, for the whole Atlantic coast of North America. The first effectual settlement of the country was made in 1524. Four years afterwards an expedition was undertaken by Pamphilo de Narvaez, with 400 men, from the island of Cuba. He penetrated into the interior of the country, but was never heard of more. In 1538 Florida was entirely subdued by Fernan de Soto, an officer in the Spanish service, after a long and bloody struggle with the natives. In 1564 the French also obtained a footing in the country, owing to the facility with which they gained the good will of the natives, and the readiness which the latter displayed in assisting them against the Spaniards. They formed little settlements along the shore, but these were ultimately destroyed by the Spaniards. In 1597 the French made severe reprisals against their European enemies, but from this time they abandoned their settlements in this part of North America. In 1586 the town of St Augustine was attacked and pillaged by Sir Francis Drake; and in 1665 it was also entered and plundered by a body of bucanneers under Captain Davis. In 1702, Colonel More, with a body of troops, besieged this town for three months; but the Spaniards having come to its relief, he was compelled to retreat. Another attempt to take St Augustine was made in 1740, but without success. In 1763 Florida was ceded to Britain by Spain, which received Havannah in exchange. The British government gave great encouragement to agriculture, and numerous colonists poured into the country from various parts of Europe, as well as from Great Britain. This is regarded as the most flourishing period in its history. It was, however, by a well-concerted scheme of the Spaniards, reconquered in 1781, and guaranteed to them by the peace of 1783. In 1819 negotiations were commenced between the United States and Spain, for the cession of Florida to the former; and a treaty to that effect was entered into. This treaty was ratified shortly afterwards, and in July 1821 Florida was finally taken possession of by General Jackson, by order of the government of the United States, to which it now entirely belongs.

As the whole province is a peninsula, it presents an extended point to the sea, and from its position, as well as its formation, is calculated, when peopled, to enjoy a considerable share of navigation; but the want of secure bays and harbours, and the dangerous bars at the mouths of its rivers, will prevent any sanguine expectations of its speedy pre-eminence from being realized.

From the uncommon flatness of the country on the sea shore, and from its being intersected by numerous rivers, there is perhaps no part of the world of the same extent which has so many inlets, sounds, narrow passes of water between the islands, and communications of one point łf the shore with another by means of inland channels, the whole coast is almost a continued line of these sounds; an <l it is contemplated that, at a comparatively small expense, a canal, communicating with the sea in a hundred places, might be made from New Orleans to the river St “ary. Almost all the rivers, before discharging themselves into the gulf, spread into broad lakes, which are frequently joined by a natural canal, containing from four to six feet of water. Perdido Bay, which divides Alaba- rna f rom Florida, is thirty miles in length and from two to ' ιχ 111 breadth. Pensacola Bay is of about the same length, “t °f greater breadth; it receives several rivers, and af- °fds the best harbour on the whole shores of the gulf.

Chactawhatchee Bay is forty miles in length, and from seven to fifteen in breadth. It is connected with Pensacola Bay by St Rosa Sound, a fine sheet of water, about forty miles in length and from one and a half to two miles in breadth. There are a number of other bays, but of smaller dimensions than those above mentioned.

All the rivers which have long courses rise in the high lands of Georgia, Alabama, and Mississippi. St Marys, which is for a long way the separating line between Florida and Georgia, is a very considerable stream, which falls into the Atlantic by a broad mouth, but is only navigable for a short distance. St John’s is also a large river; it rises in the centre of the peninsula, and flowing with a gentle current in a northerly direction, spreads into a wide channel, and passes through several lakes, the largest of which, St George, is twenty miles long and twelve broad, and finally falls into the sea forty miles to the south of St George. It has been navigated by a steam-boat. Most of the rivers which fall into the gulf have their sources in Georgia. The most important of these is Appalachicoa, which divides East from West Florida. It is formed by the conjunction of two considerable streams, and is the longest, largest, and most important river in Florida. Besides those above mentioned, there are a great number of other rivers which fall into the gulf at different points. Indeed the whole country is intersected by them, and so furnished with inlets, and level in the soil, that there is no part of the territory at any considerable distance from water communication. The value of the rivers, however, is considerably depreciated by most of them having a bar at their mouth, which prevents vessels drawing much water from entering. But schooner and steam-boat navigation is practicable to a considerable extent.

The sea islands on the Florida shore are not of much importance. St Rosa island is a long and narrow slip parallel to the coast, between St Rosa Bay and Pensacola. The Tortugas are a group of islands opposite the southernmost point of East Florida; they are covered with mangrove bushes, and extend from north-east to south-west. Anastasia, which is opposite to St Augustine, and divided from the mainland by a narrow channel, is twenty-five miles in length. They are covered with pine trees and sand banks, and have a sterile soil. On the West Florida shore are Hummoch, Crooked, St Vincent’s, St George’s, Dog, and James’ Islands.

There are a vast number of springs, fountains, and lakes in Florida. The subterranean waters frequently burst forth in the form of vast boiling springs, which form rivers at a short distance from their outlets, and by their frequency, their singular forms, the transparency of their waters, and the multitude of their fishes, constitute one of the most striking curiosities of the country. There is a spring or outlet of immense size situated about twelve miles from Tallahasse. It has a depth of about two hundred and fifty fathoms. The waters, like those of the gulf, have a cerulean tinge, and are of aerial transparency. Amongst the other curiosities of Florida may be mentioned a number of natural caverns and bridges, some of which are of considerable dimensions. The antiquities consist of great roads, causeways, forts, and other indications of former occupation.

The climate of Florida may be considered as in some respects tropical, but the northern belt of country, which lies along the southern limits of Georgia and Alabama, partakes of the cooler temperature of those states, and is remarkably salubrious. > The regular range of the thermometer throughout Florida, from June to the autumnal equinox, is between eighty-four and eighty-eight degrees of Fahrenheit. The mercury occasionally rises to above 100°, but this seldom occurs. There is generally a sky of mild [7:9:626]azure, a southern breeze, and an air of great purity; but even in winter the influence of the unclouded and almost vertical sun is uncomfortable. The evening air, however, is very humid, and the dews are excessive. In the peninsular parts there are sometimes slight frosts, but water seldom or never freezes. The most delicate orange trees bear fruit in full perfection, and of a delicious quality. The rainy season commences only in winter, and the sultry season begins in June and ends with the autumnal equinox. The peninsular parts being nearer the tropics, have a higher temperature than West Florida, which is occasionally fanned by Canadian breezes, sweeping the valley of the Mississippi. Like the West Indies, the peninsula is subject to tornados; and during the autumnal equinox hurricanes and destructive gales sometimes occur. There are in particular seasons indications of considerable humidity over the whole country; and the same sudden variations of temperature which constitute so distinct a feature in all the south-western parts of the United States are experienced here. The unremitting heat which prevails, and the frequent rains which fall from June to October, are apt to generate the fevers of southern climates, especially in places which lie in the vicinity of ponds and marshes. On the other hand, it may be safely asserted that those parts of Florida which are removed from swamps and other stagnant waters are healthy.

The lands of Florida, in their general character, are light and sandy; and they are represented as not capable of sustaining a continual succession of exhausting crops. Considerable tracts in different parts are fertile; but by far the greater part is sterile or unproductive. The lands have been divided into seven varieties: 1. Pine Barrens, which constitute a great part of the country. They produce vast quantities of yellow and pitch pine; also shrubs in great variety, and a wiry grass, which yields sustenance to numerous herds of cattle. In wet seasons, orchards of peach and mulberry trees flourish remarkably well on these lands. 2. Hainmoch Land. This variety, which constitutes the main body of good land, is so called because it rises in mounts or small tufts among the pines. Most of the islands remote from the sea are of this kind, which is adapted to sugar cane, cotton, indigo, potatoes, and pulse. 3. Prairies. These are of two kinds; one of them, found in the pine barrens, has a covering of sand, and is sterile; and the other, which is covered with wild grass, is met with on high lands. 4. Swamps. These are of two kinds, the river and inland swamps; the latter are the most valuable, producing rich crops of rice, and, in some instances, the best cotton, corn, and indigo, in the country. 5. Marshes, some of which are covered with salt water, and others with fresh. The fresh-water marshes produce an abundance of wild oats. 6. A species of marsh called Gallen, consisting of water courses covered with strong earth, which trembles like jelly when touched. 7. Elevated grounds covered with large trees of different species.

Florida is not rich in minerals, although it is affirmed that several kinds of precious stones have been found in it.

it coal, iron ore, and ochres of different colours, are, however, abundant.

• The vegetable kingdom in Florida displays greater variety than is to be found in any other part of the United states. In the hammock lands, on the river courses, and in the richer swamps, nothing can surpass the luxuriance and splendour of the trees and shrubs. Ever verdant forests of pine cover a great extent of country, and the trees are of uncommon height and beauty. What are called vlnte cedar and cypress abound in the swamps, and they fheT∙PP l’ e T 1 T s size ∙ 1 θ aks are a ⅛o numerous, and the tree here developes itself in full perfection. After the union of Florida with the United States, a plantation of oaks was commenced at Deer Point, and m 1829 upwards of 76,000 were growing in a flourishing condition. The cabbage palm, or choemarops palmetto, is common, and grows to a great height. The leaves of this superb tree are manufactured into hats, baskets, and mats. In the deep swamps immeasurable cypress trees shoot up in straight columns, the foliage of which is closely interwoven at the top, forming a canopy of verdure of vast extent. On the hammock lands, the beautiful dog-wood trees spread their horizontal branches, which, interlacing each other, form a fine deep shade, impervious to the rays of the sun, and surpassing the growth of all vegetation underneath. Here also may be seen the beautiful pawpaw, which has a stem perfectly straight, smooth, and silver-coloured, with a conical top of evergreen foliage, and fruit of the richest appearance. Titi is the name of a shrub which fills the southern swamps, as the elder does those of the north. It flowers in masses of white ornamental blossoms, and has singular strings of covered seeds, which hang on the bushes till winter. Five or six species of pine are found here. The southern extremity of Florida is very rocky. Instead of the trees and shrubs which are found in the rest of the country, it is covered with mastic, lignumvitae, gum elemy, ovino, wild fig, and mangrove.

There are many traces of ruined towers and Indian villages, together with other indications of former occupation; and wherever these are discovered, there may also be seen those groves of lime, orange, peach, and fig trees, which are spoken of by travellers as having been found here indigenous to the soil. Wild grape vines abound. Myrica odorata, or candle berry laurel, is common; and from the berries of this plant an excellent kind of wax for candles is prepared. Among other flowers is found the magnificent Hybiscus, which, though an herbaceous and annual plant, grows to the height of ten feet, branching regularly in die form of a sharp cone. It is covered with large crimson flowers, which unfold in succession during the whole of the summer months. Tillandsia usneoides, long moss or Spanish beard, is common here. It hangs down in festoons, sometimes from ten to fifteen feet in length, like the pendent stems of the weeping willow. The fibre, when properly prepared, is elastic and incorruptible, and in many respects resembles horse hair, both in appearance and use. It is used for stuffing cushions, saddles, and the like.

The low savannahs are covered, like the prairies of the upper country, with a prodigious growth of grass and flowers. In the swamps, the cane brakes arc of great height and thickness, and the rushes, and other meadow plants, grow to an uncommon size. Some of the reed canes are seen from thirty to forty feet in height. The lakes and creeping bayous, especially in summer, are covered with a curious species of aquatic plant, called by botanists ρistια stratiotes. It somewhat resembles the vegetable commonly called house-leek, and has a beautiful elliptical leaf. When the roots of thousands of these plants have twined together, so as to form a large and compact surface, the mass is often drifted by the wind or current to a considerable distance, and thus presents the appearance of a floating island of considerable extent. The herbarium of this country is exceedingly rich and diversified. The cultivated vegetables are, maize, beans, potatoes, especially sweet potatoes, pumpkins, melons, rice, and a variety of esculent roots, particularly a species of arum, which is not cultivated in the maritime parts. It has a large bulbous root, which, when roasted or boiled, has a taste similar to the yam. The pistache is a kind of nut in pods, which grows abundantly in sandy land. It is much cultivated both by the Seminoles (an Indian tribe) and by the Americans. It is baked or roasted in the shell, and used by confectioners as a sweetmca Tobacco, cotton, indigo, rice, and the sugar cane, wil ι n [7:9:627]future be the principal articles of culture. The African and Otaheite cane flourish remarkably well in the southern parts of the country, and planters are beginning to turn their attention to the cultivation of them. The coffee-tree has been tried on the peninsula; and coffee can unquestionably be raised there, but whether of a kind or in quantities which will justify an extensive cultivation of the article, has not yet been sufficiently proved. The olive, it has been found, flourishes here, and bears well. A species of cactus, on which the cochineal fly feeds, is common in the country. This plant, it is conjectured, will become an important article of manufacture. A species of cabinet wood of great beauty called bastard mahogany is also found here.

Florida is an admirable country for raising stock, and formerly the rearing of cattle and horses was the chief employment of the small planters. Deer are very abundant, and hunting is pursued to a considerable extent, although the Indians complain of the scarcity of game. Wolves sometimes assemble in great numbers, and, whether united or single, they are always formidable enemies to the folds and vacheries of the planters. Bears are still found here, and their flesh is esteemed a luxury by the inhabitants. The other quadrupeds of Florida are, wild cats, panthers, foxes, rabbits, many beautiful kinds of squirrels, raccoons, Mexican oppossums, and wood-cocks.

The ornithology of Florida is probably the richest in North America. The variety and splendour of the birds is one of the most striking features of the country. Those of the aquatic species are immensely numerous, especially during winter. In the woods are vultures, hawks, rooks, jays, parroquets, wood-peckers, pigeons, turkeys, herons, cranes, curlews, cormorants, plovers, blue birds, mockingbirds, red birds, and great varieties of the sparrow tribes. The dog-wood groves are the resort of vast numbers of the small singing birds. Among the remarkable specimens of the feathered tribes are the snake birds, a species of cormorant of great beauty. Wild ducks and wild geese are found in prodigious flights; wild turkeys are plentiful, and of a very large size.

The sea coasts, the rivers, and the lakes, abound with every variety of fish, and furnish food to the greater proportion of the people, especially on fast days and in Lent. The rivers and lakes swarm with alligators, who feed most voraciously on the innumerable fry of smaller fish. The abundance of these smaller fish is a most singular fact. The sea-shore abounds with sharks, which, like the alligators, find a supply of food by preying on the smaller tribes, which, when pursued by those voracious monsters, ascend the creeks to parts where they suddenly contract, and so fill the water as to impede the passage of a boat. In some instances, where the contraction of the stream is very sudden and very great, those smaller fish have been seen so closely crowded as to become a mass actually filling the channel, and even rising, wedged together, above the surface of the water.

Various kinds of serpents are common in Florida, and incredible numbers of the small insects called ephemerae cover the surfaces of the lakes and rivers, supplying abundant food for the birds, frogs, and fishes. Gnats, mosquitos, and other insects, also abound, and in some parts are extremely annoying.

This country was, in some respects, an invaluable acquisition to the United States. Besides its political importance, it was necessary to them on account of its harbours, its immense line of coast, and its inexhaustible supplies of ship timber. From the period of the incorporation of Florida with the North American States, emigra-hon to this state has been considerable. It has been di- vι ded into counties, judicial and military districts; and the benefits of American institutions have been diffused over its whole extent. The present number of inhabitants is estimated at about 35,000. They comprehend emigrants from all countries, and from every American state, and they are as thoroughly mixed as any community in the United States. Almost all the inhabitants are poor, and too great a proportion of the recent emigrants consists of mere adventurers. Most of the ancient "inhabitants lead a pastoral life, and subsist by the rearing of cattle. A few of the planters are opulent, and possess good houses, which are generally situated in remote forests and savannahs. They are said to be remarkable for their hospitality to strangers.

Of the Indians, which were formerly so numerous and powerful in this country, only a few small fragments of tribes remain, which, with refugees from other tribes, are dispersed throughout the forests and savannahs. The Indians of this region are an alert, active, and athletic people; of joyous dispositions, and fond of war. They have the common propensity for intoxicating liquor, and for gambling. As hunters they are expert; and by the sale of bear, deer, panther, and wolf skins, of horses and cattle, bees’ wax, honey, venison, and such articles as are the produce of the chase, they procure the necessaries of life.

The chief town of East Florida, and the most populous in the country, is St Augustine. It is situated on the Atlantic coast, thirty miles below the mouth of St Johns, on an inlet behind the island of St Anastasia, in north lat. 29. 45. It is about two miles within the bar, which has only from eight to ten feet of water, thus precluding the entrance of large vessels into the harbour. The town is built of an oblong form; it is surrounded by a ditch, fortified by bastions, and defended by a castle called Fort St John. The river St Mark flows through the harbour, and divides the town from the island. The streets are in general narrow; the houses are not more than two stories high, with thick walls, spacious entries, large doors, windows, and balconies, and having commonly a fine garden attached to them. Although the soil around St Augustine is so sandy as to have the appearance of being sterile, yet it is productive to a considerable extent. It yields two crops of maize yearly, and garden vegetables are reared in abundance. The orange and lemon arrive at great perfection here; the palm or date tree grows near to the town, and the olive has become naturalized in the soil. The population of St Augustine consists of between 4000 and 5000 inhabitants. The capital of West Florida is Pensacola, which is situated on a bay of the same name, in long. 87. 12. W. and lat. 30. 20. N. The shore is low and sandy, but the town is built on a gentle ascent. Like St Augustine, it is of an oblong form, and nearly a mile in length. Small vessels only can come close up to the town; but the bay affords one of the safest and most capacious places of shelter for shipping in the Gulf of Mexico This town has been selected by the American government as a naval station and depot, for which it is admirably adapted. Pensacola has increased in prosperity since its union with the United States, and at present contains about 3000 inhabitants.

The seat of government for the territory of Florida is Tallahasse. The position of this town was fixed upon in 1824, and in the year following it was divided into lots, and immediately incorporated as a city. The situation of Tallahasse is remarkably pleasant, and is supposed to be healthy. The ground on which it stands is considerably elevated, and the surrounding country is high. An elevated chain of hills bounds the shores of the Mexican Gulf, and the town lies three miles north of this ridge, in long. 84. 36. W. and lat. 30. 28. N. The country around is generally fertile, and suited to the cultivation of sugar. At present it is covered with various kinds of trees, amongst [7:9:628]which is an excellent kind of mahogany. In 1830 the population amounted to about 1200. St Marks, an inconsiderable place, situated at the distance of nine miles from Tallahasse, is the nearest sea-port. The other towns, villages, &c. of this territory are too insignificant to require a separate description.

It is contemplated to cut a canal through Florida, which, when accomplished, will develope its resources, and cause the country to present many attractions to the emigrant. Upon this subject Mr Flint observes, “As an agricultural country, it must be confessed, a great part of Florida is sterile. The level pine forest lands will bring one or two crops of corn without manure; and will probably be cultivated to a certain extent with indigo. The drier lands of this sort are admirable for sweet potatoes, and on the whole better, with the requisite cultivation and manuring, for gardens, than soils naturally more fertile. There are considerable bodies of excellent land distributed at wide intervals over all the country; but a small proportion of these are what are denominated first rate. Some parts, probably, offer equal advantages for the cultivation of sugar with the sugar lands of Louisiana. Cochineal, it is supposed, will be made to advantage, and, it may be, coffee. It offers superior maritime advantages of every sort; abounds in the materials of ship-building; and, in its rich and inexhaustible fisheries, and its supply of oysters and sea fowl, has its own peculiar advantages. The immigrant, who sought to enrich himself by cultivation alone would probably make his way to the richer soils west of the Mississippi. But, if taken as a whole, it is more sterile than the country along the Mississippi, it feels the refreshing coolness of the sea breeze and the trade winds, and it is beyond a doubt more healthy.”

The counties and chief towns, besides those already mentioned, are, Alachua, Dell; Duval, Jacksonville ; Escambia, Pensacola ; Hamilton, Miccotoum ; Jackson, Marianna ; Jefferson, Monticello ; Leon, Tallahasse, 896 miles from Washington; Madison, Hickstoum ; Monro, Key West; Moscheto, Tornoka; Nassau, Ferdinanda; St Johns, St Augustine, 841 miles from Washington, 292 south-east from Tallahasse; Walton, Aliqua ; Washington, Holme’s Valley. There are also Gadsden, Fayette, and some other new counties.