JAEN, an ancient kingdom of the south of Spain, now forming one of the four portions into which the province of Andalusia is divided. The extent of this province is 268 square leagues, and its population amounts to 206,807 souls. La Mancha bounds it on the north, Cordova on the west, and Granada on the east and south. It is surrounded on every side by lofty mountains, which almost exclude it from intercourse with the surrounding provinces. Its surface is a constant alternation of hills and valleys; and as from the surrounding mountains innumerable rivulets issue, its lower levels of land are abundantly irrigated, and therefore highly productive, whilst the hills, from want of moisture, are barren, or yield little except some sheep pasture in the winter season, when the merino flocks, driven from the north, seek food in the southern provinces. It produces wheat and barley, but not sufficient for its consumption. It has abundance of oil, and a full supply of wine, and its fruits are exquisite and plentiful.
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The principal river is the Guadalquivir, which runs through the centre of the province, and receives additions to its copious stream from the junction of the Guadali-mar, the Jandula, the Jaen, and the Escobar. There are some mines of lead in this province, in which sometimes considerable quantities of silver are found. These mines were of some celebrity whilst the Romans governed Spain; and though the silver has been less sought for since the discovery of the mines of America, yet, for the sake of the lead, they are now carried on by the government, and furnish sheet lead, shot, and musket balls, to the southern part of the kingdom. The manufacture of earthen jars, called alcarrazas, for keeping liquors in a cool state in the warmest weather, is the most considerable production of Jaen that is sent out of the province; and they are much esteemed in every part of Andalusia. The celebrated university of Alcala la Real, founded by Cardinal Ximenes, still exists in this province, and is attended by a number of students in divinity. The biblical scholar recognises it as having been the scene of the labours of the editors of the Complutensian edition of the Old Testament. In this province is the celebrated field, called the Plain of Tolosa, on which, six centuries ago, the most sanguinary battle was fought that the history of Spain has recorded.

Jaen, a city of Spain, capital of the ancient kingdom of the same name, in latitude 37. 4S. and now forming one of the divisions of Andalusia, is situated on the declivity of a mountain, between some lofty sierras, in a fertile and productive country, which yields some wine and abundance of oil, for which there are twenty-seven mills. It stands on the left bank of a small river, now of the same name, but called by the Moors Guadalbullon, which, after proceeding about six leagues beyond this city, falls into the Guadalquivir below Mengibar. The city is deemed very healthy. The situation being elevated about 1400 feet above the level of the sea, renders it temperate; and the sierras which surround it, by the breezes that descend from them, tend to refresh the air in the most sultry seasons. The inhabitants amount to about 9000, who are not distinguished by their industry; and the only manufactures that are carried on are those of leather and soap. It is a bishop’s see; and the cathedral, of great antiquity, has no peculiar beauty to render it deserving of notice.