Title: Tuesday 7th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Last night about nine o clock we saw a number of fish. We could not tell what they were; some say they are Dolphins some that they are Porpoises but it being dark we could not perceive them well only the path they made in the water. I write it in this days Journal because the Captain dont allow any light in the night for fear that there are some british frigates hereabouts; and I could not write in the dark. 10 o clock. I hear some of the sailors cry Land! Land! I must go and see what truth there is in it. I have been up to the Main crosstrees and have seen the Land. It appears to be very high and looks as if it was a great, ways off. The Captain conjectures it is Cape Finister. The wind freshens up a little. We go about 4 kn an hour. 11 o clock. Very foggy. We can’t see Land now. 4 o clock. It has clear’d up. We can see Land very plain now.


Title: Wednes 8th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning about half after four o clock we saw a sail. At about seven o clock we could see her very plain. She hoisted spanish coulours and we french ones and fir’d a Gun: she goes before to Pilot us. We lay to all last night. 9 o clock. We just fir’d a gun for a signal for a Pilot to come on board but none comes yet. 11 o clock. There’s a pilot on board. 1 o clock P M. We have just now cast anchor after coming by five forts; it is an amazing strong place. In one of the forts there are 365 guns. We saw a number of french ships here three of which are agoing to Brest the first good wind. A number of the officers belonging to them came on board to see the Captain. As we pass’d by the ships we saluted them with three huzzas which were returned by them. As we passed by the last fort we were saluted from it by 21 guns; we did not return it. I wonder why they did not? The city of Ferrol the harbour of which we are now in is a small city but the houses appear (from here) to be well built. About a league out of the town there is a Vessel with three decks abuilding. It appears to be a Vessel of a hundred guns; the Entrance of the port is very narrow being but about a mile wide. The magazines are very large and magnificent. There is a large building in about the middle of the City which appears to be a monastry. The houses (as I said before) are large and well built. The port is what they call a bason basin. Thus have I given a small description of this place. This afternoon my Pappa and the Captain went on board the french and spanish comandants and after that on shore. 4 o clock. I thought that the fort saluted us at twelve o clock but I find it is the spanish Admiral’s birth day, and they have a great festival of it, they have fir’d, again. About 7 o clock my Pappa and the Captain Came on board. We have got down our Top Gallant Masts.


Title: [Titlepage]
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       A journal from thetime I left the fregateLa Sensible to thetime I left Ferrol.


Title: Friday 10th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This forenoon I took a walk about the town but saw nothing worth remarking. At about half after twelve o clock Pappa and Mr. Dana went on board one of the french ships to dine with the Captain and a number of other Gentlemen. At four o’clock Sammy Cooper and Charles went on board the frigate. Nothing more remarkable to day.


Title: Tuesday 14th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       The French consul was here last night (he is to go to Coronna with us). He told us that he would send a man this morning to tell us if it was possible to go to Coronna this day. At 10 o clock a Messenger came to our lodgings after our things. The Muletiers came and carried our things down to the boat. At 4 o clock the Consul came and told us we should set out to Morrow morning at 5 o clock in the morning. The officers here French and Spanish have a cockade red and white for the alliance between France and Spain. Capt Chavagnes desir’d all his officers to add the Black to it and put one in himself. He says that he has not wore a Cockade before since he was a Midshipman and accordingly they have got one in. The Spanish and French officers wonder’d at it and Enquir’d of the Frigates officers what they had the black for. They told them that France being allied to the thirteen United States of America they put it in. For that reason, the Captain said that it was only what was due for the Politeness that he had been used with in Boston. There’s an Example of French Compliments. 10 o clock. I have been to the play. Much the same thing that we had Yesterday and the other day except that a Farce was added to night spoken in the Portugese Language and the Actors and Actresses acted their parts more lively.


Title: Wednesday 15th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at 5 o clock the Consul’s servant came and wak’d us up. We dress’d and drank a cup of Chocolat. After breakfast the Consul came and told us he was ready. We then went down to the wharf and went on board a boat to cross over the other Side of the bason. When we arrived the Muletiers were not quite ready but we soon got ready, and then we sot out like so many Don Quixote’s and Sancho Pancha’s or Hudibras’s and Ralpho’s. We were eleven in Company and in this order. 1st the Consul. 2d My Pappa. 3d Mr. Dana. 4th Mr. Allen. 5th Mr. Thaxter who made the front. 6th Mr. Sam Cooper Johonnot, 7th My Brother Charles and 8th Myself who made the centre. 9thly the Consuls servant. 10th Mr. Dana’s servant. 11nth and last the Muletier who brought up the rear. We past several bridges and amongst the rest one of a Mile long which they call devils bridge and another at which we din’d* which was call’d hogs bridge. Droll names for bridges I think? We also pass’d a river and a number of Prodigious high mountains. The ground is in General well cultivated. Corn, Turnips, and all other vegetables stand in the Ground. In the Month of December the Ground is cover’d all about with a sweet verdure and all appears like the Month of May. At about 7 o clock P.M. we arrived at Coronna and took our lodgings. A Gentleman told us that there was an American schooner here belonging to the Tracy’s in Newburyport. The city of Coronna appear’d to me to be better built and handsomer than that of Ferrol. The streets are larger, but I entered it in the night and therefore could not observe anything very well.
       *The French Consul provided our dinner and we were glad of it for we found nothing at all that was eatable at the tavern. He said that they found nothing in Spain but some of the Gentlemen asking for water. Ah? says he “as for water you may find enough of that in Spain.”


Title: [Section Title]
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       A Journal from the time I left Ferrol to the time I left Coronna.


Title: Thursday the 16th of December.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning I took a walk about the town to see and found that it was a much more pleasant town than Ferrol. The Chamber which I lodge in comands a beautiful prospect of Rocks and mountains and also a fine view right out to sea and a small part of the town. There is a tour tower in the city, but I have not been to see it. Pappa has seen it to day and I beleive I shall go with Mr Thaxter and Mr. Allen to see it to morrow. Nothing very remarkable this day.


Title: Saturday 18th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning I went to the French Consul’s and from there to the Governor’s of this place. We saw Mr. Logonare at the Consuls. We gave him a Letter and carry another to the Governor’s and gave it to him. He said he would give us a Passport this afternoon or to morrow and that it was impossible to go till monday. Very fine weather. I look’d this morning out of our chamber window and saw a beautiful sight. The waves all foaming upon the Beach and Breaking made a terrible noise and as beautiful a sight as I ever saw in my life. We expected to see a Nun made to day but we were disappointed. The Nuns are shut up in Convents and never see any men Except the friars. They go? ... different ... reasons. Sometimes the thing is this. In these European Countries a Girl must marry the person that her parents to chuse for her. If they are ever so obstinate as to absolutely refuse to marry a Person This afternoon the Gentlemen all went to see the armory but I was a writing a Letter and therefore could not go.


Title: Sunday 19th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This forenoon we all went to the Consuls where we dined. There were 16 Gentlemen 51 dishes, and 20 different sorts of Wines. As we came home brother Charles led me a wrong way and we were near an hour before we found our lodgings but at last we found them. Very rainy and a Great deal of wind all day. I beleive that there is a heavy Gale of wind at sea.


Title: Monday 20th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Very rainy all this forenoon. This morning Pappa, Mr. Dana, Mr. Allen and Mr. Thaxter went to Court to see and hear the mode of pleading in this country. At about noon it clear’d up. This afternoon I went to the Consuls after the Inscription on the “tour de fer.” He told me that he not got it yet but that he expected to have it to day. He also told me he should come to see my Pappa, and accordingly he came and drank tea here with the king’s Lieutenant who is an Irishman. The Administrator of the kings to bacco came also and made a visit to Pappa and made him a present of some to bacco and four bundles of segars which are used in this country instead of Pipes. The king of Spain will be 64 year old the 20th of January 1780.


Title: Tuesday 21st.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This forenoon Sammy Cooper Charles and I went to the Consul’s in order to go a Gunning. The Consul told us it was too late to go this forenoon but that his Servant should Go with us after dinner. He desir’d us to dine with him which accordingly we did and after dinner the Consuls servant went with us. We had but little Game because it rain’d almost all the time, we went up on the top of the Tour de fer, call’d by the Spaniards tour d’hercule, at about 5 o clock we arriv’d at our lodgings. We live at a french house at the sign of the Grand Amiral in Spanish le Grante Amirante. The Master is a Frenchman and his name is Le Brun and he appears to be a very Clever man.


Title: Saturday 25th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This is a great day with the Roman Catholics. “Fete de Nouailles” Christmas. However I find they dont mind it much. They dress up and go to mass but after that’s over all is. So if they call this religion I wonder what is not it; after Mass, almost all the Shops in town are open’d. But stop. I must not say any thing against their religion while I am in their country but must change the subject. This forenoon Madame Lagoanere sent us some sweetmeats: for my part I was much obliged to her for them, but I shall diminish them but little. We expect to go for Madrid to morrow. The Muletiers came to look and see how many mules it would take to carry our Baggage, however I am afraid that it will be a bad day as it is cloudy and has been rainy all day with intermissions. I thought that Marti Augusto Sacrum was the whole of the inscription upon the tour de fer, but the Consul came here this Evening and gave us the inscription after this manner. “Inscription gravée Sur un Roche au pied de la Tour d’hercule. Marti Aug. Sacr. G Serius Lupus Lusitanus Ar. Flaviensis Architectus. ex Voto.” Inscription in Graved upon a Rock at the foot of the Tour of hercules. Dedicated to Mars and Augustus. Gaius Serius Lupus Lusitanus Architect of Flaviensis. From desire. It was a Monk who took this inscription from the rock some years agone. Perhaps the translation may not appear very Elegant but the Characters being effaced a great deal, the Monk could not take down the whole of the inscription: but I have translated it as well as I can, and therefore it must go as it is. Flaviensis the Consul informs me is a city in Portugal; he says also that G S L L. is a Portugues.


Title: Sunday 26th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This Morning Mr. Lagoanere came to our lodgings and told us that we should go at one o clock and that he would accompany us as far as the first stage. This Gentleman is about 45 years old according to my supposition. He is neither handsome nor homely. He is well shaped and a very agreable Gentleman; he is Consul for the American affairs at Corunna. At about 12 o clock the French Consul came to our lodgings. He embrac’d my Pappa and took leave of us all. He is as I conjecture of about 35 years of age. He is pitted with the Small pox without which he would be handsome. He is a little tall but not overgrown. He is very sociable and very polite. At half after one the Chaises came and any body would think that they were as old as Noah’s ark made in the year one and at a Quarter after two we got into our Chaises.


Title: Sunday 26th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Their were three Carriages all drawn by Mules, two at each carriage and each carriage carries two persons except one which carries three. The three servant’s Andrew Mr. Allen’s, John Mr. Dana’s, and Stevens My Pappa’s rode a Mule back as also did our Guide whose name is Martin, Mr. Lagoanere rode on a horse belonging to him. And thus equipped our caravan set out. In the first carriage was Mr. Allen and Sammy Cooper. One of their Mules had near a Hundred little bells tied round it’s neck. Next Mr. Dana, and Mr. Thaxter, one of theirs had some bells but not many. And lastly My Pappa, brother Charles and Myself. Neither of our Mules had any bells. We pass’d I beleive almost 20 crosses. We came about 3 leagues and a half good way and the other half a league was very bad and muddy. I forgot to say that our first stage was 12 Miles off of Corrunna; at about 7 o clock we arrived at a village call’d Betancos. We found a place to lodge for once not among the Mules, however I beleive that we sha’nt have that to boast of long. This city of Betancos otherwise Betanzos was formerly the Capital of the province of Galicia which is to this day call’d the Kingdom of Galicia. We have right against our lodgings a large Church. This also is the place where the archives otherwise call’d records of this province are kept at present.


Title: Monday 27th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at six o clock our ears were assaulted by “Tis time to get up.” If the Guide had not have kept his time the bells of the Church opposite us would have kept the time for him, for about a Quarter of an hour after we got up they begun to ring and rung for about a half an hour. Our Muletiers all went to Mass but we were not much obliged to them for it. However, let them do as they please, for I beleive that is the best way. Mr. Lagoanere says that there are two convents for men (the Dominican and the Franciscan) and two Nunneries for women. The one which is opposite us is the Dominican. Mr. Lagoanere also says that St. Yago is the Capital of this province by name because the body of St. James was buried there and because the Archbishop is there at present but Corunna is actually the Capital And the Governor of the province and the audience are there. The building in which the archives are kept, is over against us. It is a large building and is not unlike one of the Colleges at Cambridge. The orders of Nuns I do not know; they have besides these a parish Church, but the Carriages are ready and I must go. There is but one Nunnery of women which is of the order of Augustines. At 8 o clock Mr. Lagoanere took leave of us all and we set out. We pass’d several prodigious mountains and passing over one of them the Axletree of one of our carriages broke and we were obliged to let it stay to have the Axletree mended. We proceeded on and stopt at a Miserable Cottage. In the Chamber Where they put us there was straw, chests, grain, barrels, and chestnuts but however I expect to see more of this yet. We saw a very high rock and on the top of it? a Chappel which our guide told us was dedicated to St. Martin. Rain all day with intermissions. We could go but four Leagues to day.


Title: Tuesday 28th of December.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we got up at 6 and were stirring at 8. Mr. Dana, Mr. Allen, and Mr. Thaxter rode on Muleback. Pappa, Charles, and I rode a little ways in the Carriage and then got out and walk’d. At 2 o clock we arrived at a little village calld Baamonde where we din’d . At abouto clock P M We set out fromto go as far aswhich is aboutleagues off of one Another and I beleive we shall lodge there to night.


Title: Wednesday 29th of December.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at about 8 o clock we set away from Baamonde and travell’d on. At twelve o clock we arrived at a Place call’d Ravadan Rabade. We stopped there and eat a bit of Bread and Cheese. This Village of Ravadan is by the Side of the River Minho Miño which empties itself in the Sea in some port in Portugal. At about half after twelve o clock we got into our Carriages and Proceeded as far as Lugo where we arrived at half after Three. We have several Times fell in with a Spanish Marquis who has treated my Pappa with a Great deal of Politeness. We are now at the same lodgings with him. We have came 12 Miles a day ever since we left Corunna. There are a great number of English Prisoners here. This afternoon two Irish Gentlemen came, and left their names and about a half an hour after they came here themselves, and very politely invited us all to lodge at their house, but we could not. They stay’d about half an hour and went away. At about 9 o clock P M they sent two very fine pies and 2 bottles of Wine Which was very polite of in them.


Title: Thursday 30th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we all got up at 3 o clock but did not set out till 7. We went over several mountains. At about two o clock we stopt and dined at a little cottage by the Side of a River which is call’d Carasedo and from thence we proceeded on as far as a little village call’d Galiego Gallegos where we shall lodge this night. This is the best house we have Lodged at since we Left Corunna. We have come 6 Leagues to day.


Title: Friday 31st.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       We had nothing worth remarking to day except we kept ascending all day and we are now at the very top of the mountains. The guide says that this is the worst day that we shall have the whole journey. We came 7 Leagues to day. In my next Volume of my Journal I will give the description of several things which I have not done in this Volume.
       End Of the first volume of my Journal. 1779.


Title: [December 1779]
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

      1779 December Wed 1st.

       We housed all the Guns to day because she rolled a great deal. A fresh breeze from the S.S.E. Nothing remarkable to day.

      Thur 2d.

       A fresh breeze from the South. Continual Squalls thunder and lightning. 6 o clock PM. The weather has cleared up.

      Friday 3d.

       Pleasant weather. A fresh breeze from the S.W. The Captain intends to go to Spain to search the ship and see if he can find the leak. At twelve o clock We were according to our agreement at 180 leagues from Cape Finister.

      Satur 4th.

       A middling breeze from the SW. This afternoon about four o clock a land Bird came a hovering over the frigate; she being so tired we Caught her. Nothing very remarkable to day.

      Sun. 5th.

       A middling breeze from the S.W. We replaced our guns. We took in the Main, and forsails in order to get the Anchors ready. The Captain expects to spy Land tuesday.

      Mon 6th.

       This morning my brother Charles look’d out of Pappa’s window and said he saw a flock of Wild fowl. A fine breeze from the South. About twelve o clock being in my Pappa’s room I heard a noise upon deck. I went out and was told by one of the Gentlemen that we saw a sail. I immediately went up to the Main cross trees and saw a brig. The Gentlemen conjecture that she is a cruizer and intends to come and reconnoitre us she having but Very little sail set. I o clock. I thought she was a brig but I hear she is a ship which has lost her Main mast. 2 o clock P M. She has got almost out of sight. 4 o clock. She has got Quite out of sight.

   A square-rigged vessel with a bowsprit and three masts, each composed of a lower, top, and topgallant mast; a brig is a two-masted vessel with square rigging like the ship’s fore- and main-masts, but the main-mast has also a fore-and-aft sail (OEDThe Oxford English Dictionary, Oxford, 1933; 12 vols, and supplement.).

      Tuesday 7th.

       Last night about nine o clock we saw a number of fish. We could not tell what they were; some say they are Dolphins some that they are Porpoises but it being dark we could not perceive them well only the path they made in the water. I write it in this days Journal because the Captain dont allow any light in the night for fear that there are some british frigates hereabouts; and I could not write in the dark. 10 o clock. I hear some of the sailors cry Land! Land! I must go and see what truth there is in it. I have been up to the Main crosstrees and have seen the Land. It appears to be very high and looks as if it was a great, ways off. The Captain conjectures it is Cape Finister. The wind freshens up a little. We go about 4 kn an hour. 11 o clock. Very foggy. We can’t see Land now. 4 o clock. It has clear’d up. We can see Land very plain now.

      Wednes 8th.

       This morning about half after four o clock we saw a sail. At about seven o clock we could see her very plain. She hoisted spanish coulours and we french ones and fir’d a Gun: she goes before to Pilot us. We lay to all last night. 9 o clock. We just fir’d a gun for a signal for a Pilot to come on board but none comes yet. 11 o clock. There’s a pilot on board. 1 o clock P M. We have just now cast anchor after coming by five forts; it is an amazing strong place. In one of the forts there are 365 guns. We saw a number of french ships here three of which are agoing to Brest the first good wind. A number of the officers belonging to them came on board to see the Captain. As we pass’d by the ships we saluted them with three huzzas which were returned by them. As we passed by the last fort we were saluted from it by 21 guns; we did not return it. I wonder why they did not? The city of Ferrol the harbour of which we are now in is a small city but the houses appear (from here) to be well built. About a league out of the town there is a Vessel with three decks abuilding. It appears to be a Vessel of a hundred guns; the Entrance of the port is very narrow being but about a mile wide. The magazines are very large and magnificent. There is a large building in about the middle of the City which appears to be a monastry. The houses (as I said before) are large and well built. The port is what they call a bason basin. Thus have I given a small description of this place. This afternoon my Pappa and the Captain went on board the french and spanish comandants and after that on shore. 4 o clock. I thought that the fort saluted us at twelve o clock but I find it is the spanish Admiral’s birth day, and they have a great festival of it, they have fir’d, again. About 7 o clock my Pappa and the Captain Came on board. We have got down our Top Gallant Masts.

      Thursday 9th.

       This morning My Pappa, Mr. Dana, Mr. Allen, Mr. Thaxter, Sammy Cooper, my brother Charles, and myself came on shore and we all but pappa went and dined at Coll. Fleury’s lodgings which are at a french tavern, the master of which was born in South Carolina. At half after six oclock we went to the play and came back at ten. One thing which is remarkable is that all our Voyage we have not had once the sun set clear.

   This last sentence is written in the margin, presumably at a later date in a slightly different hand. The rest of the page contains a scrawled design, probably completed after the entry was written.

       Titlepage

       A journal from thetime I left the fregateLa Sensible to thetime I left Ferrol.

   The first of two titlepages to the continuation of JQA’s journal, the contents of which constitute the latter two-thirds of the Diary booklet, D/JQA/1. The title is followed by the same scrawled design repeated throughout the booklet.

       Titlepage

       AJournal byJohn Quincy AdamsContinuationFrom The XthOf DecemberTo The Last OfThe Same MonthMDCCLXXIX

      Friday 10th.

       This forenoon I took a walk about the town but saw nothing worth remarking. At about half after twelve o clock Pappa and Mr. Dana went on board one of the french ships to dine with the Captain and a number of other Gentlemen. At four o’clock Sammy Cooper and Charles went on board the frigate. Nothing more remarkable to day.

   Dana records having dined with Hippolyte, Comte de Sade, Chef d’escadre, that evening on board the flagship Triomphant, and on the following night with Chevalier de Gras Préville, Capitaine de pavillon, on board the same ship (Dana, Journal; Hoefer, Nouv. biog. généralJ. C. F. Hoefer, ed., Nouvelle biographie générale depuis les temps les plus reculés jusqu’à nos jours, Paris, 1852-1866; 46 vols.; JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:406).

      Saturday 11th.

       This forenoon a Captain of one of the french men of War came and very politely invited me on board to dine with him. Mr. Thaxter my brother Charles and I went on board of the Jason of 64 Guns. There are three French Men of War here the Triumphant of 80 Guns the Sovereign of 74 and the Jason of 64. The Captain and all the officers were all exceeding polite. At about 5 o clock we came back. We were to go to the play but there is none. We are to go for Coronna tomorrow.

   M. de La Marthonie, commander of the Jason (JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:405).

      Sunday 12th.

       This morning I went to the French Consuls to ask him if he went to day. He said that it blew so smart and right against us that it was impossible for us to go to day and that he would take proper Measures to go to morrow by Land. 4 o clock P.M. Rains very hard, Thunder and lightning. 7 1/2. The Weather has clear’d up. I have just been (with Mr Dana, Mr. Allen, Mr. Thaxter, Sammy Cooper, and my Brother Charles) to the play house but found there was no play to night. As we were going we met The frigate’s doctor, Mr. De La Roche, And Mr. Denian who told us that there was no play but we thought we would go to the door and see but they told us there was none to night but that there would be one to morrow.

   That is, to La Coruña, situated about five leagues away across the bay or six leagues by land from El Ferrol. M. Detournelle was consul there (Almanach royal,Almanach royal, année M.DCCLXXVHI [8cc.]. Présenté à sa majesté pour la première fois en 1699, Paris, no date. 1778, p. 501).

      Monday Evening 13th.

       Very rainy all this day. It is impossible to go to Coronna to day. 10 o clock. I have been to the play with Mr. Dana, Mr. Allen, Mr. Thaxter, and my Brother Charles. We saw there Captain Chavagnes, Mr. De Goesbriand, and all the officers of the Ship and one of the officers of the jason. The actors are very indifferent and so are the musiciens. There are some fine dancers there but I beleive they are not spaniards. I have been twice and both times an opera was acted all spoken in the Italian Language.

      Tuesday 14th.

       The French consul was here last night (he is to go to Coronna with us). He told us that he would send a man this morning to tell us if it was possible to go to Coronna this day. At 10 o clock a Messenger came to our lodgings after our things. The Muletiers came and carried our things down to the boat. At 4 o clock the Consul came and told us we should set out to Morrow morning at 5 o clock in the morning. The officers here French and Spanish have a cockade red and white for the alliance between France and Spain. Capt Chavagnes desir’d all his officers to add the Black to it and put one in himself. He says that he has not wore a Cockade before since he was a Midshipman and accordingly they have got one in. The Spanish and French officers wonder’d at it and Enquir’d of the Frigates officers what they had the black for. They told them that France being allied to the thirteen United States of America they put it in. For that reason, the Captain said that it was only what was due for the Politeness that he had been used with in Boston. There’s an Example of French Compliments. 10 o clock. I have been to the play. Much the same thing that we had Yesterday and the other day except that a Farce was added to night spoken in the Portugese Language and the Actors and Actresses acted their parts more lively.

      Wednesday 15th.

       This morning at 5 o clock the Consul’s servant came and wak’d us up. We dress’d and drank a cup of Chocolat. After breakfast the Consul came and told us he was ready. We then went down to the wharf and went on board a boat to cross over the other Side of the bason. When we arrived the Muletiers were not quite ready but we soon got ready, and then we sot out like so many Don Quixote’s and Sancho Pancha’s or Hudibras’s and Ralpho’s. We were eleven in Company and in this order. 1st the Consul. 2d My Pappa. 3d Mr. Dana. 4th Mr. Allen. 5th Mr. Thaxter who made the front. 6th Mr. Sam Cooper Johonnot, 7th My Brother Charles and 8th Myself who made the centre. 9thly the Consuls servant. 10th Mr. Dana’s servant. 11nth and last the Muletier who brought up the rear. We past several bridges and amongst the rest one of a Mile long which they call devils bridge and another at which we din’d* which was call’d hogs bridge. Droll names for bridges I think? We also pass’d a river and a number of Prodigious high mountains. The ground is in General well cultivated. Corn, Turnips, and all other vegetables stand in the Ground. In the Month of December the Ground is cover’d all about with a sweet verdure and all appears like the Month of May. At about 7 o clock P.M. we arrived at Coronna and took our lodgings. A Gentleman told us that there was an American schooner here belonging to the Tracy’s in Newburyport. The city of Coronna appear’d to me to be better built and handsomer than that of Ferrol. The streets are larger, but I entered it in the night and therefore could not observe anything very well.
       *The French Consul provided our dinner and we were glad of it for we found nothing at all that was eatable at the tavern. He said that they found nothing in Spain but some of the Gentlemen asking for water. Ah? says he “as for water you may find enough of that in Spain.”

   The knight Hudibras and his squire Ralpho, the principal characters in Samuel Butler’s mock-heroic poem Hudibras.

   John William Christian Fricke was a German-born captured British mercenary (JA to the Governor of La Coruña, 18 Dec., LbC, Adams Papers; information from Mrs. Robert W. Otto to the Adams Papers Editorial Office, 1966).

   In 1775 Nathaniel Tracy, Newburyport merchant and shipowner, his brother John, and brother-in-law Jonathan Jackson launched a mercantile business in European goods, but as war approached they converted their fleet to privateering (Sibley-Shipton, Harvard Graduates,John Langdon Sibley and Clifford K. Shipton, Biographical Sketches of Graduates of Harvard University in Cambridge, Massachusetts, Cambridge and Boston, 1873- . 17:247–251, 646–649).

       Section Title

       A Journal from the time I left Ferrol to the time I left Coronna.

      Thursday the 16th of December.

       This morning I took a walk about the town to see and found that it was a much more pleasant town than Ferrol. The Chamber which I lodge in comands a beautiful prospect of Rocks and mountains and also a fine view right out to sea and a small part of the town. There is a tour tower in the city, but I have not been to see it. Pappa has seen it to day and I beleive I shall go with Mr Thaxter and Mr. Allen to see it to morrow. Nothing very remarkable this day.

   In the margin: “a mile out of the city.”

      Friday 17th.

       This morning I went to see the tour de fer (as the French call it and the spaniards Tour d’hercule). It is 100 foot in height and perhaps 2000 years old. There is an inscription which I have not seen for I could not go in which runs thus “Marti et Augusto sacrum. Dedicated to Mars and Augustus." Pappa supposes that it was built by Augustus Caesar just after he had routed Brutus, and Cassius, at Phillippi. Pappa, Mr. Dana, Mr. Thaxter and Mr. Allen dined at the Governors and at about 7 o clock they came back again. Captn. Trash of the Newbury vessel sail’d to day.

   General Don Pedro Martin Cermeño, governor of the province of Galicia (JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:409).

   Probably Philip Trask, captain of the schooner Success, a privateer owned by the Tracy firm and commissioned by a letter of marque on 2 Sept. 1778 (Currier, Newburyport,John J. Currier, History of Newburyport, Massachusetts, 1764-1905, Newburyport, 1906-1909; 2 vols. 1:640).

      Saturday 18th.

       This morning I went to the French Consul’s and from there to the Governor’s of this place. We saw Mr. Logonare at the Consuls. We gave him a Letter and carry another to the Governor’s and gave it to him. He said he would give us a Passport this afternoon or to morrow and that it was impossible to go till monday. Very fine weather. I look’d this morning out of our chamber window and saw a beautiful sight. The waves all foaming upon the Beach and Breaking made a terrible noise and as beautiful a sight as I ever saw in my life. We expected to see a Nun made to day but we were disappointed. The Nuns are shut up in Convents and never see any men Except the friars. They go? ... different ... reasons. Sometimes the thing is this. In these European Countries a Girl must marry the person that her parents to chuse for her. If they are ever so obstinate as to absolutely refuse to marry a Person This afternoon the Gentlemen all went to see the armory but I was a writing a Letter and therefore could not go.

   Michel Lagoanere, “acting” American agent in La Coruña, who proved unusually helpful to JA by providing travel information and hiring mules and carriages for the trip across northern Spain (JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:412; and letter to Lagoanere referred to in note 2, below).

   Both letters are dated 18 Dec. (LbC, Adams Papers); in the Lagoanere letter JA discussed his travel needs for the journey across northern Spain and in his letter to the governor listed the names of those for whom he was requesting passports.

   The passport, which was issued that day for JA and his party, is in the Adams Papers and is reproduced in JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:facing p. 290).

   Not found.

      Sunday 19th.

       This forenoon we all went to the Consuls where we dined. There were 16 Gentlemen 51 dishes, and 20 different sorts of Wines. As we came home brother Charles led me a wrong way and we were near an hour before we found our lodgings but at last we found them. Very rainy and a Great deal of wind all day. I beleive that there is a heavy Gale of wind at sea.

      Monday 20th.

       Very rainy all this forenoon. This morning Pappa, Mr. Dana, Mr. Allen and Mr. Thaxter went to Court to see and hear the mode of pleading in this country. At about noon it clear’d up. This afternoon I went to the Consuls after the Inscription on the “tour de fer.” He told me that he not got it yet but that he expected to have it to day. He also told me he should come to see my Pappa, and accordingly he came and drank tea here with the king’s Lieutenant who is an Irishman. The Administrator of the kings to bacco came also and made a visit to Pappa and made him a present of some to bacco and four bundles of segars which are used in this country instead of Pipes. The king of Spain will be 64 year old the 20th of January 1780.

   Charles III (1716–1788), son of Philip V and Elisabeth Farnèse, who had reigned since 1759 (Larousse, Grand dictionnaire universelPierre Larousse, Grand dictionnaire universel du XlXe siècle ..., Paris, [1865]; 15 vols, and supplements.).

      Tuesday 21st.

       This forenoon Sammy Cooper Charles and I went to the Consul’s in order to go a Gunning. The Consul told us it was too late to go this forenoon but that his Servant should Go with us after dinner. He desir’d us to dine with him which accordingly we did and after dinner the Consuls servant went with us. We had but little Game because it rain’d almost all the time, we went up on the top of the Tour de fer, call’d by the Spaniards tour d’hercule, at about 5 o clock we arriv’d at our lodgings. We live at a french house at the sign of the Grand Amiral in Spanish le Grante Amirante. The Master is a Frenchman and his name is Le Brun and he appears to be a very Clever man.

      Wednesday 22d Of December.

       Rain’d all day with intermissions. At about 3 o clock PM we went a Gunning with Flamand. We got but little because Flamand the Consul’s servant put a wad into his Gun and did not put any powder and was forc’d to go and draw it out. Stevens, Sam Cooper, brother Charles, Flamand and I went together. I fir’d three times but once in the Air. I kill’d once. This morning a Spanish Vessel went out and this afternoon a French Frigate and another French Ship came in, to this Port. At about 6 o clock we came home and found nobody but Mr. Allen there.

   Joseph Stephens (sometimes Stevens), a former soldier and sailor, was JA’s servant in Europe from 1778 to 1783. In the latter year Stephens presumably lost his life at sea while returning to America (JA, Corr. in the Boston PatriotCorrespondence of the Late President Adams. Originally Published in the Boston Patriot. In a Series of Letters, Boston, 1809[-1810]; 10 pts., p. 533; JA to the Printers of the Boston Patriot [14 Feb. 1812], published in their issue of 29 April 1812).

      Thursday 23d Of December.

       A good day. At about 11 o clock we saw a Sail and at one o clock we saw a nother one of which prov’d to be a Dutchman which came in to this port, and the other a French man and went to Ferrol. This Afternoon Flamand, Sammy Cooper, and I went agunning again, we got Nothing because Flamand’s Gun would not go off. Sammy Cooper and I fir’d at a Mark twice and hit both times. At about 5 o clock We arrived at our lodgings. The 2 frigates which we saw enter yesterday are both French and one of them is the famous Belle poule the fregate which fir’d the first gun against the English this war. The Captain of the Belle Poule invited my Pappa to dine with him to morrow.

   For an account of the incident, see Jonathan R. Dull, The French Navy and American Independence: A Study of Arms and Diplomacy, 1774–1787, Princeton, 1975, p. 118–119.

      Friday 24th.

       This morning a Spanish 80 Gun Ship went out of this harbour. At about 10 o clock the Consul came to our lodgings and brought us the French paper call’d the Courier de L’europe in which was the following news that a part of the Count d’Estaing’s fleet had arrived at L’orient which was seperated in the Storm and that it brought news that the Count was repulsed at Savannah with the loss of six hundred men, part of the fleet is also arrived at Cadiz who had a 60 days passage, that there is an American Vessel Arrived at La Rochelle which sail’d with the Confederacy the 16th of October Last and had left her the Same day and arrived at La Rochelle the 8th of December which was the Same day that we arrived at Ferrol. The part of the Counts fleet which arrived at L’Orient brought also an account that the Count was wounded twice in the battle, once in the arm slightly and once in the leg dangerously but was in a fair way of recovery. To day Pappa went with the Consul on board the Belle Poule, and at about 5 o clock he came back again with the Consul. In about a Quarter of an hour the Consul went away.

   Charles Henri Théodat Comte d’Estaing became vice admiral in the French navy in 1777 and took command of the fleet organized to battle the British in America in the following year. D’Estaing’s attempt to recapture Savannah in Oct. 1779, which he finally abandoned and in which attempt he was severely wounded, was his third unsuccessful effort in behalf of Americans (John Richard Alden, The American Revolution, 1775–1783, N.Y., 1954, p. 206–207; Alfred Thayer Mahan, The Major Operations of the Navies in the War of American Independence, Boston, 1913, p. 59, 66–75, 115).

      Saturday 25th.

       This is a great day with the Roman Catholics. “Fete de Nouailles” Christmas. However I find they dont mind it much. They dress up and go to mass but after that’s over all is. So if they call this religion I wonder what is not it; after Mass, almost all the Shops in town are open’d. But stop. I must not say any thing against their religion while I am in their country but must change the subject. This forenoon Madame Lagoanere sent us some sweetmeats: for my part I was much obliged to her for them, but I shall diminish them but little. We expect to go for Madrid to morrow. The Muletiers came to look and see how many mules it would take to carry our Baggage, however I am afraid that it will be a bad day as it is cloudy and has been rainy all day with intermissions. I thought that Marti Augusto Sacrum was the whole of the inscription upon the tour de fer, but the Consul came here this Evening and gave us the inscription after this manner. “Inscription gravée Sur un Roche au pied de la Tour d’hercule. Marti Aug. Sacr. G Serius Lupus Lusitanus Ar. Flaviensis Architectus. ex Voto.” Inscription in Graved upon a Rock at the foot of the Tour of hercules. Dedicated to Mars and Augustus. Gaius Serius Lupus Lusitanus Architect of Flaviensis. From desire. It was a Monk who took this inscription from the rock some years agone. Perhaps the translation may not appear very Elegant but the Characters being effaced a great deal, the Monk could not take down the whole of the inscription: but I have translated it as well as I can, and therefore it must go as it is. Flaviensis the Consul informs me is a city in Portugal; he says also that G S L L. is a Portugues.

      Sunday 26th.

       This Morning Mr. Lagoanere came to our lodgings and told us that we should go at one o clock and that he would accompany us as far as the first stage. This Gentleman is about 45 years old according to my supposition. He is neither handsome nor homely. He is well shaped and a very agreable Gentleman; he is Consul for the American affairs at Corunna. At about 12 o clock the French Consul came to our lodgings. He embrac’d my Pappa and took leave of us all. He is as I conjecture of about 35 years of age. He is pitted with the Small pox without which he would be handsome. He is a little tall but not overgrown. He is very sociable and very polite. At half after one the Chaises came and any body would think that they were as old as Noah’s ark made in the year one and at a Quarter after two we got into our Chaises.

       Section Title

       A Journal from the timeI left Corunna to the timeI arrived at Astorga.

      Sunday 26th.

       Their were three Carriages all drawn by Mules, two at each carriage and each carriage carries two persons except one which carries three. The three servant’s Andrew Mr. Allen’s, John Mr. Dana’s, and Stevens My Pappa’s rode a Mule back as also did our Guide whose name is Martin, Mr. Lagoanere rode on a horse belonging to him. And thus equipped our caravan set out. In the first carriage was Mr. Allen and Sammy Cooper. One of their Mules had near a Hundred little bells tied round it’s neck. Next Mr. Dana, and Mr. Thaxter, one of theirs had some bells but not many. And lastly My Pappa, brother Charles and Myself. Neither of our Mules had any bells. We pass’d I beleive almost 20 crosses. We came about 3 leagues and a half good way and the other half a league was very bad and muddy. I forgot to say that our first stage was 12 Miles off of Corrunna; at about 7 o clock we arrived at a village call’d Betancos. We found a place to lodge for once not among the Mules, however I beleive that we sha’nt have that to boast of long. This city of Betancos otherwise Betanzos was formerly the Capital of the province of Galicia which is to this day call’d the Kingdom of Galicia. We have right against our lodgings a large Church. This also is the place where the archives otherwise call’d records of this province are kept at present.

   Andrew Dismié (or Desmia) had been a servant of one of the officers of La Sensible. Upon arrival in Spain and with that officer’s consent, he served Allen on the journey from El Ferrol to Bordeaux (JA to the Governor of La Coruña, 18 Dec. 1779; JA to Andrew Dismié, 15 May 1780, both LbC, Adams Papers).

      Monday 27th.

       This morning at six o clock our ears were assaulted by “Tis time to get up.” If the Guide had not have kept his time the bells of the Church opposite us would have kept the time for him, for about a Quarter of an hour after we got up they begun to ring and rung for about a half an hour. Our Muletiers all went to Mass but we were not much obliged to them for it. However, let them do as they please, for I beleive that is the best way. Mr. Lagoanere says that there are two convents for men (the Dominican and the Franciscan) and two Nunneries for women. The one which is opposite us is the Dominican. Mr. Lagoanere also says that St. Yago is the Capital of this province by name because the body of St. James was buried there and because the Archbishop is there at present but Corunna is actually the Capital And the Governor of the province and the audience are there. The building in which the archives are kept, is over against us. It is a large building and is not unlike one of the Colleges at Cambridge. The orders of Nuns I do not know; they have besides these a parish Church, but the Carriages are ready and I must go. There is but one Nunnery of women which is of the order of Augustines. At 8 o clock Mr. Lagoanere took leave of us all and we set out. We pass’d several prodigious mountains and passing over one of them the Axletree of one of our carriages broke and we were obliged to let it stay to have the Axletree mended. We proceeded on and stopt at a Miserable Cottage. In the Chamber Where they put us there was straw, chests, grain, barrels, and chestnuts but however I expect to see more of this yet. We saw a very high rock and on the top of it? a Chappel which our guide told us was dedicated to St. Martin. Rain all day with intermissions. We could go but four Leagues to day.

   Santiago de Compostela, located about 30 miles south by west of La Coruña, well off the route to France traveled by JA and his party. From medieval times Santiago was one of the most frequently visited places of pilgrimage in western Europe (JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:418; 4:217–218).

      Tuesday 28th of December.

       This morning we got up at 6 and were stirring at 8. Mr. Dana, Mr. Allen, and Mr. Thaxter rode on Muleback. Pappa, Charles, and I rode a little ways in the Carriage and then got out and walk’d. At 2 o clock we arrived at a little village calld Baamonde where we din’d . At abouto clock P M We set out fromto go as far aswhich is aboutleagues off of one Another and I beleive we shall lodge there to night.

      Wednesday 29th of December.

       This morning at about 8 o clock we set away from Baamonde and travell’d on. At twelve o clock we arrived at a Place call’d Ravadan Rabade. We stopped there and eat a bit of Bread and Cheese. This Village of Ravadan is by the Side of the River Minho Miño which empties itself in the Sea in some port in Portugal. At about half after twelve o clock we got into our Carriages and Proceeded as far as Lugo where we arrived at half after Three. We have several Times fell in with a Spanish Marquis who has treated my Pappa with a Great deal of Politeness. We are now at the same lodgings with him. We have came 12 Miles a day ever since we left Corunna. There are a great number of English Prisoners here. This afternoon two Irish Gentlemen came, and left their names and about a half an hour after they came here themselves, and very politely invited us all to lodge at their house, but we could not. They stay’d about half an hour and went away. At about 9 o clock P M they sent two very fine pies and 2 bottles of Wine Which was very polite of in them.

      Thursday 30th.

       This morning we all got up at 3 o clock but did not set out till 7. We went over several mountains. At about two o clock we stopt and dined at a little cottage by the Side of a River which is call’d Carasedo and from thence we proceeded on as far as a little village call’d Galiego Gallegos where we shall lodge this night. This is the best house we have Lodged at since we Left Corunna. We have come 6 Leagues to day.

      Friday 31st.

       We had nothing worth remarking to day except we kept ascending all day and we are now at the very top of the mountains. The guide says that this is the worst day that we shall have the whole journey. We came 7 Leagues to day. In my next Volume of my Journal I will give the description of several things which I have not done in this Volume.
       End Of the first volume of my Journal. 1779.


Title: [Back Cover]
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

      Mamma | |

       Letters to America

      Sister |
      Mamma |

      Brother |
      Sister | |

      Mr. Thaxter | | | | | | | | | | | |
      Tommy |

      Uncle Smith |
      Harry Warren |

      Pappa | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |
      Josh Green |

      Charles | | | | | | | | | | | | |
      Cousin Billy |

      Col. Jonno | |
      Cousin Lucy

      Sammy | | | | | | | | | | | |
      George Warren

      Capt. Tucker |

      Captn. Chavagnes | | | | | | | | | |
      Letters

      Mr. Allen | | | | | | | | |

      Mr. Dana | | | | | | | | | |

      Coll. Fleury |

      French Consul | | | | | | | | | | | | |

      Flamand | | | | | | | |

      Mr. Lagoanere | | | | | |
      Total

      | | | | | | |


Title: 2d Sunday.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at seven o clock we got up and at 9 o clock set away. We went through several villages and dined at Ponfarada Ponferrada. After dinner we went Through several more villages and arrived at a little village call’d Benbibere Bembibre at about 6 o clock. We shall lodge at this place to night. We have come 7 Leagues to day.


Title: January 3d 1780 Monday.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we got up at 5 o clock and at 6 we set away from Benbibere. We dined in a little hut amongst the mules and at about 6 o clock we arrived at Astorga. We have had very Good roads all this day. The Guide told us that we had 7 Leagues but we had 10 good English Leagues.
       In the first volume of this journal I promised to give a description of several things. I will now give one of the Roads, Houses, men, &c from Corunna as far as this place. The roads in General are very bad. The Lodgings I will not attempt to describe for it is impossible. However I will say something about them. We did

       not once lodge with the mules but not much better. They shew us chambers in which any body would think a half a dozen hogs had lived there six months. I have in my first volume said something about Castellano. We have not met with any place quite so bad as that but we have come very near it. Sometimes we might see a chimney but it is very seldom. They have a large flat stone in the middle of the room and they punch two or three holes in the roof of the house out of which some of the Smoke goes and the rest must be borne with. They never wash nor sweep their floors from the time the houses are made to the time they are pull’d down. The roofs of the houses are generally a parcel of boards cover’d with straw. As for the People they are Lazy, dirty, Nasty and in short I can compare them to nothing but a parcel of hogs. Their cloaths are commonly of a dirt colour and their Breeches are big enough for to put a bushel of Corn in besides themselves. I do not wonder at it. Poor Creatures they are eat up by their preists. Near three quarters of what they earn goes to the Preists and with the other Quarter they must live as they can. Thus is the whole of this Kingdom deceived and deluded by their Religion. I thank Almighty God that I was born in a Country where any body may get a good living if they Please. Thus have I given a description of several things. At another opportunity I will give one of several others.


Title: 4th Tuesday.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning our Guide told us that the Chaises had several things to be mended and that we could not go to day. At about 12 o clock I with Mr. Dana Mr. Allen Mr. Thaxter and S C Johonnot went to see the Cathedral but the man was gone to dinner and the door was shut. The Gentlemen went again after dinner but I did not go with them. I here will say a little about this Town. The streets are very filthy and muddy. There are four convents here two of men and two of women one of each sex Franciscan and one of each sex Dominican, there is a Cathedral in this town which the Gentlemen say is very Magnificent and Elegant. This is a very ancient city. The walls our Guide Tells us are 600 years old. There is but very little of them remaining. The Cathedral was struck by Lightning in the year 1776 which knockt down one part of it. In side of it there is the picture of St. Michael the Archangel trampling the Devil under his feet and out Side of it is carved a picture of Christ upon the Cross and in a nother place (outside also) is carved the virgin Mary holding a cross in her hand. All this show cannot come from the Heart but is all out side appearance.


Title: 5th Wednesday.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at about sun rise we set of f from Astorga with very fine weather and roads. We dined at a little village the name of which I do not know. We arrived at Leon at about 6 o clock. Before we arriv’d we came through a strait road with a row of trees on each side, at the end of it is a very large building which our Guide tells us is a College dedicated to St. Marcus. We made several twistings and turnings and at last arrived at a house in which we shall lodge to night. It is eight Leagues from Astorga here and the roads are very fine all the way.


Title: Thursday 6th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we asked a man how many convents there were in Leon. He wrote what follows.

     Noticia de los Conbentos queay en esta Ciudad de Leon

       de Freiles

      De St. Francisco

      2

      De St. Domingo

      1

      De St. Claudio Benitos

      1

      4

       De Monjas

      De St. Benito

      1

      De la concepcion

      1

      Des Colzas

      1

      Recoleta

      1

      4

       Canonigos

      Cassa de San Isidro

      1
      }
      2

      Cassa de San Marcus

      1

      Parroquias

      Catedral y parroquias

      9

      Total

      19

       Notice of the Convents in this city of Leon. &c.
       I now will take down the name of our Guide and those of the postillions and men that go on foot.
       Senior Miguel Martinus our Guide.
       Senior Raymon San, the Master of all the Carriages and the Mules which draw them.
       Senior Diego the postillon who drives Mr. Aliens carriage.
       Eosebio Seberino the postilion who drives Pappa’s carriage.
       Joseph Diaz the postilion who drives Mr. Dana and Mr. Thaxter.
       Bernardo Bria the owner of the Mules which Stevens and the Guide ride upon.
       Juan Blanco the owner of the Mules which John and Andrew ride upon.
       As this city is a large one we shall stay here till 1 o clock.
       10 o Clock AM
       I have been to see the Cathedral which is so Exceeding rich and magnificent that it is beyond the reach of my pen to describe it. This Cathedral has only a bishop belonging to it. Our Guide tells us that there are but 4 Archbishops In this Kingdom one in Galicia one in Burgos one in  and one in  that the rest of the Cathedrals have bishops only. We saw the procession. The bishop passd. Our Guide told us to kneel. I did. He gave me his Benidiction but I did not feel the better for it. As we were coming back we saw the Castle of King Alphonsus which he built to drive out the Moors. It is 1938 years old. At 12 o clock we dined and at I set away from Leon and went as far as Manzilla which is 3 Leagues from Leon.


Title: Friday 7th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we set away from Manzilla with good weather and roads but very cold. We stopt and dined at a little village the name of which I donot know and at 5 o clock P M arrived at St. Juan le Segun Sahagún which is a Small city at 6 Leagues from Manzillo.


Title: Saturday 8th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Fine weather. We came through several villages. We have come seven leagues to day. At about 6 o clock we arrived at a little village called Parades Paredes de Naba. Very bad accomodations to night.


Title: Sunday 9th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Cloudy weather. We din’d at Palentia Palencia which is a city as Large as Corunna. At about 7 oclock P.M. we arrived at Torre quemada Torquemada which is 7 Leagues from Parades de naba.


Title: Monday 10th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at 7 o clock we set away from Torre quemada. Just after we set away we went over a Bridge with 25 Arches to it and at about ten o clock we went over another with 18 Arches to it. We dined at a little village the name of which it is not necessary to mention and at about half after five arrived at Sellada el Camino where we shall lodge to night. It is 8 leagues from Torre quemada.


Title: Thursday 13th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Rose at about day break and set away ½ an hour before sun rise. Passed through several villages and dined at Pan Courbo. Before dinner we went along in a Plain between two ridges of mountains the soil of which is excellent and after dinner we went along another plain betwixt two ridges of rocks some of which were 150 200 and 300 foot in height some right strait up, some hanging over our heads, and some slanting from us but I never saw so beautiful a sight in all my life. After dinner we pass’d two villages. I went forward with the Guide and Stevens to find the lodging. Tolerable good roads to day, we have come 8 Leagues, to day. We determined to go to Bilboa Bilbao. The name of this place is Espexo Espejo.


Title: Saturday 15th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we rose at about day break and at about a half an hour before Sun rise we set off from Luyando. At about 8 o clock it began to rain, rain’d till about 12 and then left of f raining but it did not clear up. At about 1 oclock we arrived at Bilbao.
       When we arrived we found two American Vessels one a brig Capt Bapson belonging to the Tracy’s of New-bury port and the other a Ship of 18 6 pounders Capt Lovett belonging to one of the Cobet’s of Beverly. After dinner Mr. Gardoqui came to where we lodge and my Pappa and the Gentlemen being gone out he gave me his address and about an hour after he came again with Captn. Bapson and drank tea and spent the Evening with us.


Title: Monday 17th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       All the Gentlemen dined at Mr. Gardoqui’s but I being unwell did not go. Settled with Raymon and our Guide and all the boys.


Title: Wednesday 19th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       To day all the Gentlemen went down the river except Mr. Dana and myself. At about 6 o clock they came back. Mr. Gardoqui’s stay’d here about a half an hour, and then went away and about a half an hour after Sent us the french newspapers but there was no news.


Title: Thursday 20th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Sot out about 3 o clock P M. Nothing remarkable.


Title: Sunday 23d.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Nothing remarkable for these 3 days. At about 5 o clock P M arrived at Bayonne. Nothing more remarkable to day.


Title: Saturday 29th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Nothing remarkable Since we left Bayonne. At about 5 arrived at Bordeaux. Mr. Vernon and Mr. Bonfeild came to see us.


Title: Sunday 30th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       We all dined at Mr. Bonfeild’s. After dinner went to the play. Had Amphitrion and Cartouche.


Title: Monday 31st.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Went about to see the town. Saw the Shipping which made a Grand appearance. The Gentlemen dined out but us younkers dined at home. After dinner we went to the hotel d’Angleterre and after that to the comedy, but could find no places.


Title: [January 1780]
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

      1780 January 1st Saturday.

       This morning Mr. Thaxter wak’d me up by sounding in my ears, I wish you a happy new year and about half an hour before sun rise we sot out from Sebrero which was the place where we lodg’d last night and went 5 leagues before dinner. We stopt at a little cottage where we dined. After dinner we went two leagues and at about 5 o clock we arrived at a city call’d Ville Franc Villafranca del Bierzo where we lodg’d to night. As we were coming along we saw on the Top of a high hill an ancient castle of the moors and right over against us there is a castle of one of the Lords built before the use of musquets were known. There is a convent of men which is of the Franciscan order and a parish church. We have come 7 leagues to day. We expect to arrive at Astorga Monday night. There we shall determine whether to go directly to Bayonne, by the way of Madrid, or by the way of Bilboa Bilbao as the routs change there.

   First entry in D/JQA/2, which covers the period, 1–31 Jan. 1780 and JQA’s travels from Sebrero, Spain, to Bordeaux, France. No titlepage was made for this Diary booklet; instead, JQA used the outside pages as the cover, which he illustrated with drawings. This Diary booklet, measuring 7⅞″ × 5¾″, consists of six leaves of paper folded over and stitched. Fifteen pages are used for the Diary, others are left blank, and four pages contain drawings. The cover designs are reproduced in this volume; see the Descriptive List of Illustrations, No. 2, and the entry for 31 Jan., note 1 (below).

      2d Sunday.

       This morning at seven o clock we got up and at 9 o clock set away. We went through several villages and dined at Ponfarada Ponferrada. After dinner we went Through several more villages and arrived at a little village call’d Benbibere Bembibre at about 6 o clock. We shall lodge at this place to night. We have come 7 Leagues to day.

      January 3d 1780 Monday.

       This morning we got up at 5 o clock and at 6 we set away from Benbibere. We dined in a little hut amongst the mules and at about 6 o clock we arrived at Astorga. We have had very Good roads all this day. The Guide told us that we had 7 Leagues but we had 10 good English Leagues.
       In the first volume of this journal I promised to give a description of several things. I will now give one of the Roads, Houses, men, &c from Corunna as far as this place. The roads in General are very bad. The Lodgings I will not attempt to describe for it is impossible. However I will say something about them. We did

       not once lodge with the mules but not much better. They shew us chambers in which any body would think a half a dozen hogs had lived there six months. I have in my first volume said something about Castellano. We have not met with any place quite so bad as that but we have come very near it. Sometimes we might see a chimney but it is very seldom. They have a large flat stone in the middle of the room and they punch two or three holes in the roof of the house out of which some of the Smoke goes and the rest must be borne with. They never wash nor sweep their floors from the time the houses are made to the time they are pull’d down. The roofs of the houses are generally a parcel of boards cover’d with straw. As for the People they are Lazy, dirty, Nasty and in short I can compare them to nothing but a parcel of hogs. Their cloaths are commonly of a dirt colour and their Breeches are big enough for to put a bushel of Corn in besides themselves. I do not wonder at it. Poor Creatures they are eat up by their preists. Near three quarters of what they earn goes to the Preists and with the other Quarter they must live as they can. Thus is the whole of this Kingdom deceived and deluded by their Religion. I thank Almighty God that I was born in a Country where any body may get a good living if they Please. Thus have I given a description of several things. At another opportunity I will give one of several others.

   A reference to the deplorable lodging conditions in Castillano, the town in which they stayed on the night of 27 Dec. on their journey from Betanzos to Baamond, which was described vividly and at length by JA (Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 4:214–216).

      4th Tuesday.

       This morning our Guide told us that the Chaises had several things to be mended and that we could not go to day. At about 12 o clock I with Mr. Dana Mr. Allen Mr. Thaxter and S C Johonnot went to see the Cathedral but the man was gone to dinner and the door was shut. The Gentlemen went again after dinner but I did not go with them. I here will say a little about this Town. The streets are very filthy and muddy. There are four convents here two of men and two of women one of each sex Franciscan and one of each sex Dominican, there is a Cathedral in this town which the Gentlemen say is very Magnificent and Elegant. This is a very ancient city. The walls our Guide Tells us are 600 years old. There is but very little of them remaining. The Cathedral was struck by Lightning in the year 1776 which knockt down one part of it. In side of it there is the picture of St. Michael the Archangel trampling the Devil under his feet and out Side of it is carved a picture of Christ upon the Cross and in a nother place (outside also) is carved the virgin Mary holding a cross in her hand. All this show cannot come from the Heart but is all out side appearance.

      5th Wednesday.

       This morning at about sun rise we set of f from Astorga with very fine weather and roads. We dined at a little village the name of which I do not know. We arrived at Leon at about 6 o clock. Before we arriv’d we came through a strait road with a row of trees on each side, at the end of it is a very large building which our Guide tells us is a College dedicated to St. Marcus. We made several twistings and turnings and at last arrived at a house in which we shall lodge to night. It is eight Leagues from Astorga here and the roads are very fine all the way.

      Thursday 6th.

       This morning we asked a man how many convents there were in Leon. He wrote what follows.

     Noticia de los Conbentos queay en esta Ciudad de Leon

       de Freiles

      De St. Francisco

      2

      De St. Domingo

      1

      De St. Claudio Benitos

      1

      4

       De Monjas

      De St. Benito

      1

      De la concepcion

      1

      Des Colzas

      1

      Recoleta

      1

      4

       Canonigos

      Cassa de San Isidro

      1
      }
      2

      Cassa de San Marcus

      1

      Parroquias

      Catedral y parroquias

      9

      Total

      19

       Notice of the Convents in this city of Leon. &c.
       I now will take down the name of our Guide and those of the postillions and men that go on foot.
       Senior Miguel Martinus our Guide.
       Senior Raymon San, the Master of all the Carriages and the Mules which draw them.
       Senior Diego the postillon who drives Mr. Aliens carriage.
       Eosebio Seberino the postilion who drives Pappa’s carriage.
       Joseph Diaz the postilion who drives Mr. Dana and Mr. Thaxter.
       Bernardo Bria the owner of the Mules which Stevens and the Guide ride upon.
       Juan Blanco the owner of the Mules which John and Andrew ride upon.
       As this city is a large one we shall stay here till 1 o clock.
       10 o Clock AM
       I have been to see the Cathedral which is so Exceeding rich and magnificent that it is beyond the reach of my pen to describe it. This Cathedral has only a bishop belonging to it. Our Guide tells us that there are but 4 Archbishops In this Kingdom one in Galicia one in Burgos one in  and one in  that the rest of the Cathedrals have bishops only. We saw the procession. The bishop passd. Our Guide told us to kneel. I did. He gave me his Benidiction but I did not feel the better for it. As we were coming back we saw the Castle of King Alphonsus which he built to drive out the Moors. It is 1938 years old. At 12 o clock we dined and at I set away from Leon and went as far as Manzilla which is 3 Leagues from Leon.

   Identified as Diego Antonio in JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:422.

   Two blank spaces in MS.

      Friday 7th.

       This morning we set away from Manzilla with good weather and roads but very cold. We stopt and dined at a little village the name of which I donot know and at 5 o clock P M arrived at St. Juan le Segun Sahagún which is a Small city at 6 Leagues from Manzillo.

   Referred to by Dana as Burgo, or more precisely, El Burgo Ranero (Dana, Journal).

      Saturday 8th.

       Fine weather. We came through several villages. We have come seven leagues to day. At about 6 o clock we arrived at a little village called Parades Paredes de Naba. Very bad accomodations to night.

      Sunday 9th.

       Cloudy weather. We din’d at Palentia Palencia which is a city as Large as Corunna. At about 7 oclock P.M. we arrived at Torre quemada Torquemada which is 7 Leagues from Parades de naba.

      Monday 10th.

       This morning at 7 o clock we set away from Torre quemada. Just after we set away we went over a Bridge with 25 Arches to it and at about ten o clock we went over another with 18 Arches to it. We dined at a little village the name of which it is not necessary to mention and at about half after five arrived at Sellada el Camino where we shall lodge to night. It is 8 leagues from Torre quemada.

      Tuesday 11th.

       This morning at 7 ½ we set away from Sellada el Cameno. At about 10 o clock it began to snow and snow’d about a Quarter of an Hour. At about 12 o clock we arrived at Burgos which is a City about as big as Corunna. We shall lodge here to night. We have come 4 Leagues to day. I said that at Astorga we should determine the routs, we did determine not to go to Madrid but we shall determine at this place whether to go to Bilboa or directly to Bayonne.
       This afternoon we all went to the Cathedral which is larger Than Those at Astorga and Leon (tho’ not so Magnificent). It was supported by, four of the largest pillars That I ever saw in my life. There are no less than 33 religious Houses in the place. Their orders are these.

      Conbentos de Fraires

      Franciscos
      1

      La Trinidad
      1

      Benitos
      1

      Augustinos
      2

      Dominicos
      1

      Mercenarios
      1

      Carmelitos
      1

      8

      Parroquias 15

      Cathedral y St. Yago de la Capilla

       2

      St. Nicholas
      1

      Sn. Roman
      1

      La Blanca
      1

      Bejaria
      1

      St. Martin
      1

      St. Pedro
      1

      St. Cosmos
      1

      St. Lesmes
      1

      St. Esteban
      1

      St. Gil
      1

      Combentos de Monjas

      Sta. Dorotea Agustinos
      1

      Sta. Franciscas
      2

      Carmelitas
      1

      Agustinas
      1

      Trinitarias
      1

      Bernardos Bernardas
      2

      Benitas
      1

      Catatrabas
      1

      St. il de fouso Fonso
      1

      Total

      De Monjas
      10

      Frailes
      8

      Paroquias
      15

      33

   This enumeration includes several discrepancies. JQA lists eleven instead of the fifteen parishes mentioned by the Adamses’ informant, their guide, and the number of nunneries recorded was actually eleven rather than ten (JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:427–428).

      Wednesday 12th.

       Good weather. Set away from Burgos and pursued our journey. Dined at a little village and at about 6 o clock arrived at a village called Bibrieski Briviesca. We have come 8 Leagues to day. Very Muddy. The roads something hilly.

      Thursday 13th.

       Rose at about day break and set away ½ an hour before sun rise. Passed through several villages and dined at Pan Courbo. Before dinner we went along in a Plain between two ridges of mountains the soil of which is excellent and after dinner we went along another plain betwixt two ridges of rocks some of which were 150 200 and 300 foot in height some right strait up, some hanging over our heads, and some slanting from us but I never saw so beautiful a sight in all my life. After dinner we pass’d two villages. I went forward with the Guide and Stevens to find the lodging. Tolerable good roads to day, we have come 8 Leagues, to day. We determined to go to Bilboa Bilbao. The name of this place is Espexo Espejo.

      Friday 14.

       This morning we set away at about sun rise. We came two leagues and then went a league up hill and then another League down hill. This was a road made through a mountain I suppose 300 foot in Height and all the way almost perpendicular. We came 4 Leagues before dinner and dined at Orduña a little city with gates to it at the foot of the mountain. After we had passed the mountain we saw some ways off a Convent which a man whom we stopped said was of women and were of the Franciscan order. After dinner we went a plain road about 2 leagues to a small village called Luyando where we shall lodge to night. We have come 6 Leagues to day.

      Saturday 15th.

       This morning we rose at about day break and at about a half an hour before Sun rise we set off from Luyando. At about 8 o clock it began to rain, rain’d till about 12 and then left of f raining but it did not clear up. At about 1 oclock we arrived at Bilbao.
       When we arrived we found two American Vessels one a brig Capt Bapson belonging to the Tracy’s of New-bury port and the other a Ship of 18 6 pounders Capt Lovett belonging to one of the Cobet’s of Beverly. After dinner Mr. Gardoqui came to where we lodge and my Pappa and the Gentlemen being gone out he gave me his address and about an hour after he came again with Captn. Bapson and drank tea and spent the Evening with us.

   The vessels were the brigantine Phoenix, James Babson, captain, and the ship Rambler, commanded by Benjamin Lovett and owned by Andrew Cabot. The Traceys and the Cabots had close connections with the Bilbao firm of Joseph Gardoqui & Sons. During the Adamses’ stay in Bilbao, the Gardoquis extended numerous courtesies to them, treating JA “with the Magnificence of a Prince” (JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:433; 4:236–237; Adams Family Correspondence,Adams Family Correspondence, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1963- .3:xiv–xv).

      Sunday 16th.

       Went to look about the Town. Saw nothing worth remarking. The two Mr. Gardoqui’s Capt. Bapson and Captain Lovett Spent the Evening here.

      Monday 17th.

       All the Gentlemen dined at Mr. Gardoqui’s but I being unwell did not go. Settled with Raymon and our Guide and all the boys.

      Tuesday 18th.

       Felt better to day. We all dined at home to day. We expect to set out for Bayonne on Thursday. Nothing remarkable to day.

      Wednesday 19th.

       To day all the Gentlemen went down the river except Mr. Dana and myself. At about 6 o clock they came back. Mr. Gardoqui’s stay’d here about a half an hour, and then went away and about a half an hour after Sent us the french newspapers but there was no news.

      Thursday 20th.

       Sot out about 3 o clock P M. Nothing remarkable.

   Gaps appear among the final days recorded in JQA’s second Diary booklet. There were no entries for 21–22 Jan., on which days the party was en route from Bilbao to Bayonne; for 24 Jan., the day they spent in that French provincial town; and 26–28 Jan., while traveling to Bordeaux. Some details of this part of their trip are provided in JA’s Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 4:238–239, and in Dana’s Journal.

      Sunday 23d.

       Nothing remarkable for these 3 days. At about 5 o clock P M arrived at Bayonne. Nothing more remarkable to day.

      Tuesday 25th.

       Set away at about 9 o clock. At about half after 9 began to Snow. Snow’d 2 hours. Went 45 miles to day.

      Saturday 29th.

       Nothing remarkable Since we left Bayonne. At about 5 arrived at Bordeaux. Mr. Vernon and Mr. Bonfeild came to see us.

   William Vernon Jr., also known as William H. Vernon, was the son of a wealthy Newport, R.I., merchant and member of the Continental Navy Board. To gain experience in trade young Vernon had been sent to France under JA’s care at the time Adams made his first voyage to Europe in 1778 (JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:271; 4:9).

   John Bondfield, a merchant with the firm Bondfield, Hayward & Co., had been commercial agent for the United States at Bordeaux and other French ports since March 1778 (Cal. Franklin Papers, A.P.SI. Minis Hays, comp., Calendar of the Papers of Benjamin Franklin in the Library of the American Philosophical Society, Philadelphia, 1908; 5 vols.., 1:384; JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:294; 4:35–36, 96–97).

      Sunday 30th.

       We all dined at Mr. Bonfeild’s. After dinner went to the play. Had Amphitrion and Cartouche.

   Probably Molière’s Amphitryon, but possibly Jean Baptiste Raguenet, Amphitryon, ou les deux arlequins, a musical parody of Molière’s play, n.p., 1713; Marc Antoine Legrand, Cartouche, ou les voleurs, Paris, 1721 (Cioranescu, Bibliographic du dix-septième siècleAlexandre Cioranescu, Bibliographie de la littérature française du dix-huitième siècle, Paris, 1965.; Brenner, Bibliographical ListClarence Dietz Brenner, A Bibliographical List of plays in the French Language, 1700-1789, Berkeley, 1947.).

      Monday 31st.

       Went about to see the town. Saw the Shipping which made a Grand appearance. The Gentlemen dined out but us younkers dined at home. After dinner we went to the hotel d’Angleterre and after that to the comedy, but could find no places.

   Such scenes of “a Grand appearance” may have inspired several sketches of ships and soldiers which appear at the end of this Diary booklet, on the last leaf and on the inside of the back cover. These sketches come after two blank leaves (which follow this last diary entry) that JQA may have intended to fill, but never did, with his descriptions of travel from Bordeaux to Paris during the following week. For details about the sketches, see the Descriptive List of Illustrations, No. 3.

   Dutch, for youngsters.

   This is the last extant entry in D/JQA/2. There is some indication that the Diary may have been continued in this booklet on the following day, 1 Feb., the last day the party stayed in Bordeaux. On the following leaf in the MS the top quarter has been torn off, but part of one or possibly two unidentifiable words survive along the torn edge.


Title: [Titlepage]
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       a e A. b, c, d, e, f, g, h, i, j, k, l, m, n, o, p, q, r, s, t, u,
       received u h, z o mb w, e, a, f k, v i,
       v, w, x, y, z
       j

        Dear

      Journal

      L

      Jaulvob.

      D.

      Siumcez

       r.

      Saufrit

       august

      jaulvob

      a

      have

      Journal.

      a

      Jaulvob.

      Siumcez.
      f

      o

      Saufrit.

      favours

   Titlepage of D/JQA/3, covering the period 25 July–30 Sept. 1780, which describes JQA’s journey from France to Holland and his settlement there, where JA began efforts which later culminated in Dutch recognition and financial aid to the American colonies. This Diary booklet, approximately 7¼″ × 4½″, is subdivided by JQA into three distinct “volumes,” as he described them, corresponding to three twelve-leaf sections which have been sewn together with two blank pages between volumes two and three. The divisions occur at 17–18 Aug. and 9–10 Sept.

   The titlepage was written probably sometime between 25 July and 10 Sept., when JQA seems to have perfected part of the cipher which is started here. Presumably he began at the top of the titlepage a simple transposition of the alphabet, which is perfected and used in the enciphered message found on the second of two otherwise blank leaves separating entries for 9 and 10 Sept. Near the left margin at the center and bottom of the title-page, JQA appears to manipulate a seven-letter word combination, presumably generated from the word “Journal.” There are other markings to the right of these, most of which have been crossed out and probably have little or no connection with the rest.

   After 31 Jan., the day on which JQA’s second Diary booklet ended, he and the other Americans continued on their way to Paris. The party left Bordeaux on 2 Feb., traveled through Angoulême, Poitiers, Tours, and Orléans, and arrived in Paris late in the afternoon of 9 Feb. The Adamses took lodgings at the Hôtel de Valois in the rue de Richelieu, where JA was to remain until he left for Holland the following July. While JA visited Benjamin Franklin at Passy, the Comte de Vergennes, French secretary of state for foreign affairs, at Versailles, and others during his first week in the French capital, JQA, CA, and Sammy Johonnot were placed in school in Passy the day after their arrival. There they attended the pension academy of M. Pechigny and his wife, which was highly popular among Americans who had children in France (Dana, Journal; Adams Family Correspondence,Adams Family Correspondence, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1963- .3:272–273). JQA’s American schoolmates at Pechigny’s may have been the same who attended Le Coeur’s school with him in 1778–1779. Few, however, can be identified. One was Jesse Deane, son of Silas Deane, the American Commissioner in Paris whom JA replaced. Young Deane had originally come to France in 1778 with JA and JQA and remained in Europe until 1783, living with his father in Ghent and London during the last two years. Another American student at Passy who attended Le Coeur’s and possibly Pechigny’s school was Charles B. Cochran, a South Carolinian, who later returned to his native state to practice law and served in the state legislature. There may have been other Americans at the school, but none was subsequently mentioned by JQA (entry for 5 Sept., below; JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:271; John B. O’Neall, Biographical Sketches of the Bench and Bar of South Carolina, 2 vols., Charleston, 1859, 2:600; Walter B. Edgar, ed., Biographical Directory of the South Carolina House of Representatives, 2 vols., Columbia, 1974, 1:238, 267; Cochran to JQA, 5 June 1809, Adams Papers).

   JQA’s course of study at Pechigny’s in-cluded Latin and Greek, geography, mathematics, writing, and drawing. When JA wrote to Pechigny some months later he asked that his sons be excused from dancing and fencing instruction and requested that they “attend the Drawing and Writing Masters, and bend all the rest of their Time and attention, to Latin, Greek, and French, which will be more useful and necessary for them in their own Country, where they are to spend their Lives.” Somewhat earlier JA had advised JQA to concentrate on Latin and Greek, “leaving the other studies to be hereafter attained, in your own Country” (Adams Family Correspondence,Adams Family Correspondence, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1963- . 3:348, 309). While JA found his sons’ schooling expensive, he was “well satisfied with the Care that is taken of them, and with the progress they make.” For JQA’s part, he was “very content with his situation” during the half year he was to remain there (same). In addition to letters about his studies, the Adams Papers also contain a copy of JQA’s English translation of La Fontaine’s fables, made between 31 March and 16 Aug. 1780 (M/JQA/42, Adams Papers, Microfilms, Reel No. 237).

   In midsummer 1780 JA left Paris for Amsterdam with his two sons. For his reasons for doing so, see JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:434–435, as well as the sources mentioned there. On 30 Aug., JQA and CA were placed as boarding students in the well-known Latin School on the Singel, in the heart of the city. The school is described in some detail in the diary entries which follow. Regrettably, JQA’s Diary ends a month later and is not resumed until the following summer, but not before he hinted of growing difficulties with the native language and the segregation imposed, “because we dont understand the Dutch.” Attempts to overcome language problems may also help to explain why the pair remained at the school during a three-week vacation a short while later. JA, with whom the boys spent Wednesday and Saturday afternoons and Sundays, became so displeased with their course of studies that he wrote, though never sent, a letter to Rector Verheyk, preceptor of the school, complaining about his holding JQA back, which he regarded as “a damage to interrupt him in Greek, which he might go on to learn without understanding Dutch.” Matters came to a head on 10 Nov., when JA promptly removed them from the school after he received a strongly worded letter from Verheyk (entry for 6 Sept., below; Adams Family Correspondence,Adams Family Correspondence, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1963- . 4:10, 11–12).


Title: Tuesday 25th of July.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       At about eleven o clock took leave of all my Schoolmates, and went to Paris, with an intention to set out for Holland on thursday, next.


Title: Wednesday 26th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Prepared everything for the journey. In the afternoon pappa went to Dr. Franklin’s for a Passport.


Title: Thursday 27th.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Stevens went to the lewtenants of the Police for a passport to go out of the kingdom. He could not get it till 10 o clock. At twelve o clock we dined. Mr. Austin, Mr. Appleton, Mr. Dana, Mr. Thaxter Mr. Fox Captn. Robinson and Dr. Foulk took leave of us and at about 1 o clock we sot out. We passed over the boulevards and out of the porte St. Martin and left Paris. We had very good roads passed over some land very well cultivated and at about ten o clock at night we arrived at Compiègne which is a small city and a very old one. We came 9 Posts and a half which is 57 Miles to day.


Title: Friday 28th of July 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we got up at about 5 o clock. We breakfasted upon tea and the Horses being come at about 6 o clock we sot away from Compiegne. We had very good roads. We dined in the carriage and went as far as Valenciennes. At a small city call’d Cambray we were stopped to be search’d but by the means of a half a crown conducted into their hands we passed along. At Valenciennes we were stopped again for the same thing twice but by the foresaid Manner we passed along. We Shall lodge at the sign of the swan; we got in at about half after nine o clock. This is the last city in France. The whole country which we have passed over to day is cultivated, we saw wheat, rye, Barley, oats, flax, and all sorts of grain. What difference there is from this part of the country than from going from Paris to Nantes!


Title: Saturday 29th 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This Morning we got up at about 7 o clock and at about half after seven we set away from VALENCIENNES. We were stopped a going out of the city by the excisemen but by the way of yesterday passed along. When we had got almost at the end of our post we were stopped again, but the same way and we passed along. But at the end of the post we were stopped and by the excisemen who belong to her Majesty the Empress Queen; we were searched and our trunk was plumbed. Her Majesty’s arms were stamped on a bit of Lead and put on to our trunk, which hinders our being stopped any more. We passed by MONS which is a city and a very pretty one. The Meadows all around it, the sheperds flocks, cattle feeding, the green orchards, made a beautiful prospect. In fine, I never saw a more beautiful one in my life; at about half after five we arrived at Bruxelles. Pappa went out to find Mr. Jennings but he was not at home. My pappa met Mrs. Izard in the street. At about eight o clock Mr. Jennings came to our lodgings (we lodge at L’hotel de L’lmperatrice) and stay’d some time after which he went away.