Title: [July 1780]
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

      Tuesday 25th of July.

       At about eleven o clock took leave of all my Schoolmates, and went to Paris, with an intention to set out for Holland on thursday, next.

      Wednesday 26th.

       Prepared everything for the journey. In the afternoon pappa went to Dr. Franklin’s for a Passport.

   At this time American ministers were empowered to issue passports to Americans traveling in the country to which they were accredited (Adams Family CorrespondenceAdams Family Correspondence, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1963- ., 4:xv).

      Thursday 27th.

       Stevens went to the lewtenants of the Police for a passport to go out of the kingdom. He could not get it till 10 o clock. At twelve o clock we dined. Mr. Austin, Mr. Appleton, Mr. Dana, Mr. Thaxter Mr. Fox Captn. Robinson and Dr. Foulk took leave of us and at about 1 o clock we sot out. We passed over the boulevards and out of the porte St. Martin and left Paris. We had very good roads passed over some land very well cultivated and at about ten o clock at night we arrived at Compiègne which is a small city and a very old one. We came 9 Posts and a half which is 57 Miles to day.

   Jonathan Loring Austin, one-time secret agent for Franklin in England and secretary for JA at Passy, had come back to Europe in a vain endeavor to secure a loan for Massachusetts from Dutch, French, and Spanish authorities (Sibley-Shipton, Harvard Graduates,John Langdon Sibley and Clifford K. Shipton, Biographical Sketches of Graduates of Harvard University in Cambridge, Massachusetts, Cambridge and Boston, 1873- . 16:303–308; Adams Family Correspondence,Adams Family Correspondence, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1963- .3:262–263).

   John Appleton, son of Nathaniel Appleton, the commissioner of the Continental Loan Office and Boston merchant, was in Paris on mercantile business and later followed the Adams’ party to Holland, carrying letters for JA (Francis Dana to JA, 31 July, Adams Papers; Adams Family Correspondence,Adams Family Correspondence, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1963- .3:390, where the date of Dana’s letter is incorrectly given as 31 Aug.).

   George Fox, an American traveler in Europe, portrayed as a man of “fortune and genius,” sympathetic to the promotion of agriculture, natural history, and the arts in America (Anne H. Cresson, “Biographical Sketch of Joseph Fox, Esq., of Philadelphia,” PMHBPennsylvania Magazine of History and Biography., 32:196 [April 1908]; Cal. Franklin Papers, A.P.S.,I. Minis Hays, comp., Calendar of the Papers of Benjamin Franklin in the Library of the American Philosophical Society, Philadelphia, 1908; 5 vols. 2:243).

   Dr. John Foulke, described in Benjamin Rush’s letter of introduction for him to JA as “a young gentleman of a respectable Quaker family who goes to France to finish his Studies in Medicine” (Benjamin Rush to JA, 28 April, Adams Papers).

      Friday 28th of July 1780.

       This morning we got up at about 5 o clock. We breakfasted upon tea and the Horses being come at about 6 o clock we sot away from Compiegne. We had very good roads. We dined in the carriage and went as far as Valenciennes. At a small city call’d Cambray we were stopped to be search’d but by the means of a half a crown conducted into their hands we passed along. At Valenciennes we were stopped again for the same thing twice but by the foresaid Manner we passed along. We Shall lodge at the sign of the swan; we got in at about half after nine o clock. This is the last city in France. The whole country which we have passed over to day is cultivated, we saw wheat, rye, Barley, oats, flax, and all sorts of grain. What difference there is from this part of the country than from going from Paris to Nantes!

      Saturday 29th 1780.

       This Morning we got up at about 7 o clock and at about half after seven we set away from VALENCIENNES. We were stopped a going out of the city by the excisemen but by the way of yesterday passed along. When we had got almost at the end of our post we were stopped again, but the same way and we passed along. But at the end of the post we were stopped and by the excisemen who belong to her Majesty the Empress Queen; we were searched and our trunk was plumbed. Her Majesty’s arms were stamped on a bit of Lead and put on to our trunk, which hinders our being stopped any more. We passed by MONS which is a city and a very pretty one. The Meadows all around it, the sheperds flocks, cattle feeding, the green orchards, made a beautiful prospect. In fine, I never saw a more beautiful one in my life; at about half after five we arrived at Bruxelles. Pappa went out to find Mr. Jennings but he was not at home. My pappa met Mrs. Izard in the street. At about eight o clock Mr. Jennings came to our lodgings (we lodge at L’hotel de L’lmperatrice) and stay’d some time after which he went away.

   Maria Theresa (1717–1780), Archduchess of Austria and Empress of the Hapsburg dominions which included the Austrian Netherlands (Larousse, Grand dictionnaire universelPierre Larousse, Grand dictionnaire universel du XlXe siècle ..., Paris, [1865]; 15 vols, and supplements.).

   Edmund Jenings, Maryland-born, English-educated lawyer and commercial agent who moved from England to Brussels, where he proved helpful to JA in placing pro-American articles in the British press. For a more thorough account of Jenings’ connection with JA and his other activities and subsequent disappointments, see JA, Diary and AutobiographyDiary and Autobiography of John Adams, ed. L. H. Butterfield and others, Cambridge, 1961; 4 vols., 2:355–356.

   Mrs. Alice Izard, a De Lancey from New York, was the wife of Ralph, a wealthy South Carolina plantation owner and U.S. commissioner to the court of Tuscany in 1777. He was just returning to America, recalled by the congress. The government of Tuscany had never received Izard as commissioner. Consequently, he had remained in France, where he and Franklin quarreled bitterly over his prerogatives (Correspondence of Mr. Ralph Izard, of South Carolina, from the Year 1774 to 1804; with a Short Memoir. Volume I., ed. Anne Izard Deas, N.Y., 1844, p. v–vi). The Izards’ numerous offspring, several of whom JQA mentions in the following day’s entry, cannot be specifically identified, but they are listed in Langdon Cheves, “Izard of South Carolina,” S.C. Hist, and Geneal. Mag., 2:205–240 (July 1901).

      Sunday 30th.

       This Morning Pappa went out and at about half after one came home with Mr. Jennings who dined here. After dinner we went to the parc. We walked there some time after which we went to the cathedral. We met Mr. Jennings’s Nephew whose name is Bordly. We heard part of a sermon spoke in Flemish. We saw an alter the banisters of which were of Solid silver and cost 30000 Pound sterling. We heard some very good musick: after which we went to Mr. Lee’s, a little after we got there Mrs. Izard, her son, and two daughters, came and a Miss Steed. We drank tea at Mr. Lee’s, and stay’d there till about eight oclock P.M. when My Pappa, Mr. Lee, Mr. Jennings, Mr. Bordly, my Brother Charles and myself took a walk down the town and saw the canals; we walk’d along upon the ramparts which was a very agreable place: and at about half after nine we got home to our lodgings.

   This is probably either Matthias or John, sons of John Beale Bordley, the agriculturist, a half-brother of Jenings (DABAllen Johnson and Dumas Malone, eds., Dictionary of American Biography, New York, 1928-1936; 20 vols, plus index and supplements.; Mrs. Elizabeth Bordley Gibson, Biographical Sketches of the Bordley Family, of Maryland . . ., Phila., 1865, p. 21–26, 78–79).

   William Lee, brother of Richard Henry and Arthur Lee, chosen by congress as commercial agent at Nantes in 1777 and made commissioner to the courts of Berlin and Vienna later in the year. Like Izard, however, Lee failed to gain recognition and was recalled in 1779. He decided to remain in Europe, making Brussels his residence until his return to Virginia in 1783 (DABAllen Johnson and Dumas Malone, eds., Dictionary of American Biography, New York, 1928-1936; 20 vols, plus index and supplements.).

   Mary Stead, sister of Elizabeth Stead Izard and sister-in-law of Ralph Izard Jr. (“Izard of South Carolina,” S.C. Hist. and Geneal. Mag., 2:236 [July 1901]; “South Carolina Gleanings in England,” same, 4:237 July [1903]).

      Monday 31st of July 1780

       This morning Pappa went to Mr. Jennings’s lodgings but he was not at home. At about half after eleven o clock Mr. Lee came here and stay’d till about half after twelve. At about twelve Mr. Jennings came and at about one we went to take a walk. We went to the place Royale. We saw the portico out of which the Counts Egmont and Horn came to be executed. It is at present barr’d up and there are two pillars near it and it is a sanctuary for any person who has committed a crime. There is a New Library building there. There is also the statue of Prince Charles there but it is said to be very badly done. From thence we went down to the grande Place, and we saw the Hotel de Ville, on the top of which is St. Michael trampling the devil under his feet, most magnificently done, on the other side of the Place is another large, building on which is this inscription in Letters of gold A PESTE FAME, ET BELLO LIBERA, NOS MARIA PACIS. HIC VOTUM PACIS PUBLICAE AELYSABET CONSECRAVIT. After this we went to Mr. Lee’s house where we found Mr. Bordly. We dined and drank tea there: after tea Mr. Bordly, My Brother Charles, and myself, went to the Park. We walk’d there a little while and went back to Mr. Lee’s but he being gone out we took another turn to the Park. We walked all round the ramparts and had a very pretty view of the town. We saw the statue of Philip 2d. He had a scepter in his hand and a very menacing look. We after this came home and at about ten o clock Pappa got home.

   “From pestilence, hunger, and war free us, Mary of Peace. This vow [or payment of a vow] for public peace Elizabeth consecrated.” This Elizabeth was possibly the wife of Philip II of Spain.


Title: Tuesday 1st of August 1780
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at about half after ten Mr. Jennings came here and at about half after eleven Pappa Mr. Jennings and Brother Charles went to take a walk. At about twelve they got back again. A little after twelve My Brother Charles and myself went to Mr. Bordly’s lodgings but he was not at home. Mr. Jennings dined at our Hotel. At about four o clock Mr. Lee came to see my Pappa. At Six o clock my Brother Charles and I went to the Play where we saw Les Trois Fermiers and Rose et Colas. The actors play but indifferently in this town. At about nine o clock we got home.


Title: Wednesday 2d of August 1780
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This Morning my Brother Charles went to find Mr. Bordly but he was not at home. Charles and I went to find him at his Uncles but met him on the way there. We went in to water with him some ways out of town and got home about dinner time. Mr. Jennings came here after dinner and in the Evening Pappa and he went to take a walk. Mr. Bordly spent the Evening here. At about Nine o clock Pappa and Mr. Jennings got back and Mr. Jennings stay’d here about a half an hour and then went to his lodgings.


Title: Friday 4th of August.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we set away at about 5 o clock. We went about two leagues on the pavements and then had for 9 leagues nothing but sand. We were stopped for the last time in her Majesties dominions and for the first in Holland. We got out of the sand and passed over a river we got at about 2 o clock P.M. At Moerdyk we passed a River and we took there a nother Carriage and went for Rotterdam. We arrived there at about half after six. We passed two rivers before we got there. We passed up a Canal and stopped before the door of the Hôtel du Marechal de Turenne where we shall lodge.


Title: Saturday 5th of August 1780
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Pappa brother Charles and myself went to see a Gentleman for whom Pappa had Letters: he invited us to dine with him. After that we went to see the city. We saw the statue of Erasmus, he is in the Grande Place, he holds a book in his hand, there are four inscriptions under it, two in Latin and two in dutch: we walk’d about the town, and came back at about twelve o clock, we went upon the Exchange, where we met Mr. Dubblemuts, (for that is the Gentleman’s name) and went and dined with him with some other Gentlemen who speak English. After dinner we went to walk with a Gentleman who speaks French. Pappa bought a dutch Grammar; after walking about the town some time we came home and drank tea. A little after tea the same Gentleman with whom we walked came and took us in to Mr. Dubblemuts coach and we went to his country seat. We saw some other Gentlemen there who spoke English. We supped there and after supper we came home in Mr. Dubblemuts carriage with a Nephew of his. After we got home Pappa received a Letter from Mr. Jennings with a Card from Mr. Douglass who had came to day from Antwerp and who is lodged in this house. The letter informs that there are fifteen sail of American Vessels arrived at Bordeaux, who brought an account that the Americans were not at all struck at the loss of Charlestown Charleston, that there was no news heard of Mr. de Ternay the 14th. of June. The letter says also that Mr. D’Estaing had been overturn’d in a Chaise in his way to Bordeaux. Mr. Jennings had came to Antwerp on Purpose to overtake us.


Title: Sunday 6th 1780
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       At about 8 o clock got up and at about half after nine Pappa brother Charles and myself went to a Protestant Church where they spoke English. We heard a very good sermon. At about twelve o clock we got home. We dined at our lodgings and at about 5 o clock we drank tea there. After tea we went to take a walk. We walked all about the town and got back at about half after six. I will now give a short description of this town. It is not a very large city but it is very agreable. There are Seven canals which pass through the town a great number of Small vessels in them but there are no large vessels in this harbour. In each street which is on the side of the water there is a row of Trees. There are 4 Churches in Rotterdam 2 of which are Protestants and the other 2 are catholicks. Most all this town are Protestants but there are also a great number of Catholicks. There are about 70,000 inhabitants in this city. There are a great number of draw bridges here. There are a Great number of English in this town. I have heard that near half the inhabitants are Englishmen. There are also a great number of English shops here but there are very few French here. I have seen no Frenchmen at all in this city.
       The text to day was. For I say through the grace given unto me to every man that is among you not to think of himself more highly than he ought to think but to think soberly according as God hath dealt to every man the measure of Faith. Romans twelvth chapter third verse.


Title: Monday 7th of August 1780
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we got up at about 7 o clock and at about half after eight we set away from our Hotel. We went down to the boat and went on board. We went along down by some very beautiful meadows Where the cattle were feeding made it very beautiful. We went through Delft. We changed boats there. At Rotterdam Pappa bought a book which gives a description of Delft and I will take it down.

          This city is in the Neighbourhood of the Hague, a day or at least an Afternoon cannot be better spent than in going to see it. The Generality of Travellers indeed pass thro it on their way from Rotterdam to the Hague but that is always done in an Hurry, in order to secure the first boat that goes off for the Hague, without allowing themselves sufficient Time for viewing so considerable a City.
          Delft is but five Miles or a large Hour from the Hague but a Chaise with a good Horse will run it in half that Time. The Road is exceedingly fine. The Village of Ryswick Rijswijk is left a little on the right, and one drives on to the Canal, over which there is a bridge, which being passed, the fine Road continues along the Side of the Canal quite to Delft.
          Without the Gate there is a fine Grove of Trees, under the Shade of which Passengers generally take a Turn, till the Boat for the Hague goes off. From the opposite Gate the Canal, which goes to Rotterdam is very broad at which there is an handsome Key or Landing place, adorned with Trees. Here the Yachts which bring the Deputies of the several Provinces to the Assemblies of the Hague, have their Station. The Deputies quit the Vessels here, and take Coach for the Hague. These Yachts are exquisitely beautiful and rich the Provinces and Cities vying with each other, which shall have the finest Yachts for the Accommodation of their Representatives. Their Burden generally is from about 30 to 50 Tons. They are adorned with streamers and carry Guns, with Trumpets and other musick which is very sweet on the Water. Colliers from Scotland also unload here, and furnish the Inhabitants of Delft the Hague and Leyden with Coals.
          This City as indeed all the rest of the Province, lies in the midst of beautiful meadows. It is surrounded with a Wall, and a Trench full of Water; it is above two Miles more in circumference than it is broad, and consists cheifly of two beautiful Streets, that lie parallel. They are almost a Mile in Length adorned with Trees and canals, over which are many handsome stone bridges. All here is as calm and still as in the midst of the country Delft being inhabited chiefly by rich People who have quitted Business for the sake of Retirement.
          The remarkable buildings and other things here, are the old Palace, where Prince William, Prince of Orange, the Founder of the State and of its Glory, was treacherously murder’d by an Emissary of Phillip IId. King of Spain. He was shot with a Pistol charged with three Bullets, just as he was rising from Table, and ordering the Assassin a Passport to go to a certain Place whither he was sending him. The Balls enter’d the Prince’s Temples and lodged in the Wall: the Holes they made in it are still shewn to Strangers. After the Prince received the Wound he died immediately, saying only, LORD HAVE MERCY ON MY SOUL AND ON THIS POOR PEOPLE. The People lamented him as their common Father and never was a Funeral celebrated with greater Pomp, and more real Sorrow. He was only one and fifty Years old at his Death; but lived long enough to humble a proud lawless Tyrant, to assert the Liberty of his Country, to establish a national church, and found a glorious commonwealth by his wisdom and Valour. The Assassin Balthazar Gherard Gérard was soon after executed and died so hardened as to say He would do it if it were to be done again. That villain is inrolled by some Roman Catholick Monasteries amongst their Martyrs.
          The Remains of this great Prince were interred in the new Church here and the Republick caused a magnificent Mausoleum to be erected over them to perpetuate the Glory of her Founder, and her Gratitude for the inestimable Services she had received from him. The Effigies of the Prince is represented in Marble with his statue standing by it in Brass compleatly armed with This motto TE VINDICE TUTA LIBERTAS; You were the Champion and Preserver of our Liberty; and another Emblem representing the Prince going on steadily in a Storm, with these Words, Sævis tranquillus in undis. At his feet lies the Figure of a Dog which is said to have died of Grief when he was murdered. There are four other Princes and Princesses of his Family interr’d in this Monument. The last of whom was a Princess, Daughter of the present Prince and Princess of Orange, that died at her birth in 1735. The corpse was exposed upon a bed of State during three Days to the view of the People.† So far to Cousin Billy. This Monument is excellently well adorned and the whole executed with a masterly taste. The Inscription is very fine and worthy the Hero, whom it is intended to commemorate.
          D. O. M. et aeternae memoriae Gulielimi Nassoviae supremi Auransionensium Principis Patr. Patr. qui Belgii fortunis suas posthabuit et suorum; validussimos exercitus aere plurimum privato bis conscripsit, bis induxit; Ordinum auspiciis Hispaniæ tyrannidem propulit; verae religionis cultum, avitas patriae leges revocavit restituit; ipsam denique libertatem tantum non assertam, Mauritio principi; paternae virtutis haeredi filio stabiliendam reliquit. Herois vere pii, prudentis invicti, quem PH. II Hisp. R.Europae timor, timuit non domuit, non terruit; sed empto percussore fraude nefanda sustulit; Foederat Belgii provinc. perenni memor. monum. fec.
          To the most good and most high God and to the immortal Memory of William of Nassau, soveriegn Prince of Orange, the Father of his Country; who preferred the good of the Netherlands to that of himself and his Family; twice levied, and brought in a strong Army principally at his own Expence; repell’d the Tyranny of Spain, as General for the States; recover’d and reinstated true Religion; and the ancient Laws of his Country; and lastly not only asserted the publick Liberty himself but left it to be firmly establish’d by his Son Prince Maurice the Heir of his great Father’s virtues. The United Provinces of the Dutch Netherlands have erected this Monument to perpetuate the Memory of this truly pious wise and invincible Hero, whom Phillip II of Spain, the Terror of Europe, dreaded, but not being able to terrify or conquer, hired an Assassin to murther him treacherously.
          The Church in which this Monument stands is a very noble Building its steeple one of the highest of the low countries, and the Chimes unusually harmonies harmonious. They play one tune at the first quarter after every hour, two at the Half hour, three at three quarters, and four before the hour strikes.
          *Cousin Billy. The Market place which is a spacious Square, has this lofty Steeple on one Side and opposite to it the town-House. On the two other Sides are Houses of the Citizens. The Town-House is an old-fashion’d Gothick Structure built about two hundred years agone, but the Walls being new painted and gilt, it looks as fresh as if erected but yesterday. It may be compared to those antiquate Beauties who besmear themselves over with paints and washes, to conceal the wrinkles and deformity of old age. It is adorned with several Statues; as those of Justice, Prudence, and Mercy; Divinities or virtues which ought to preside in sovereign Courts. Over the Gate are these two Lines

           Haec domus odit, amat, punit, conservat, honorat,
           Nequitiam, pacem, crimina, jura, bonos.

          In the old Church, which is also a lofty Pile with an high steeple, but inferior, to the new, are the Monuments of the great Van Tromp and Heine two Dutch Admirals kill’d at Sea. Van Tromp is represented reposing on a Cannon, surrounded with Arms and Trophies. That Admiral defeated the Spaniards in two Engagements, and ruined their Power at Sea. In Cromwell’s war with the Dutch, Van Tromp fought Blake, and both sent an Account of their Victory to their Principals. In another Engagement the English were obliged to retire into the Thames; but in a third, which lasted three Days, the Dutch were defeated. In 1653, two other cruel Battles happen’d, in the last of which the English were victorious, and Tromp kill’d. Notwithstanding these Defeats, that Admiral was buried with great Pomp, and had the utmost posthumous Honours done him by his grateful Country.
          The Dutch are excellent Masters to serve. They value their Servants for their Merit,and strenuous Endeavours to acquit themselves well, rather than for their Success. The former is in the power of man, the latter depends finally on God, who alone is the Giver of Victories. In this Spirit it is that they adorn their vanquish’d Admirals with Crowns of Lawrel, and transmit their faithfull Services and glorious Deaths to Posterity.
          Peter Heine the Admiral took the Spanish silver Fleet.
          The principal Magazine and Armory of the Province of Holland is kept here. The House which is very large, was built in 1692. There is a terrible Display of Cannon and Mortars regularly pil’d up one above another without Doors. Amongst the rest are two Peices of Ordnance cast at Lubeck in 1669 of which each weighs 8000 pounds.
          This city is also famous for its excellent earthen ware in imitation of China. On the Market Days or during the Wake, or Kermis, vast Quantities of that Commodity are exposed to Sale in the streets. It is call’d delft Ware from this City. They are arrived to such perfection in making it that it is hardly inferior to China in Firmness Fineness; but they have not yet been able to make it transparent. It is probable, that they will attempt nothing farther that way for want of Encouragement. The Dutch East India Company import such vast quantities of Porcelain from China, and which is sold so cheap, that there is hardly a Family in the Province, tho ever so poor, that is not tolerably well provided with this foreign Commodity, so that their own Manufacture is in no small Measure of Disgrace.
          Formerly there was a considerable Settlement of British Merchants and Clothiers here but they removed to Rotterdam as more convenient for Trade.

       End of the description of Delft.
       We pass’d down by some beautiful Meadows and at about I o clock at The Hague. After dinner Mr. Dumas came here and invited us to supper for to Morrow. He stay’d here some time and then went away.


Title: Wednesday 9th of August 1780
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Mr. Dumas came and went with Pappa to the French Ambassadors lodgings. After they came back at about eleven o clock we dined and at half after twelve we set away from the Hague for Leyden. We pass’d down some very beautiful Meadows. We saw a great Number of very pretty country seats and at half after 3 o clock we arrived at Leyden. We took lodgings a la Cour D’Hollande. We went to see Mr. Fine a Gentleman whom Mr. Dumas knows. We supped there. Before supper Mr. Dumas went with us to see several curiosities which being in that same book I will take it down as also a description of this city.

          Leyden is no more than three Hours, or about nine fifteen Miles, from the Hague, and as many from Delft. To each of those Cities eight Boats set out every Day at certain Hours as also to Haerlem, and from thence to Amsterdam, from whence Leyden is only six Hours distant; but crossing the Lake of Haerlem with a fair wind, it is only Three.
          Next to the four Capital’s which I call Rome, London, Paris, and Amsterdam, Leyden is one of the largest and most beautiful Cities in Europe. It is fortified, as are all the other Towns in the seven Provinces with a strong Rampart of Earth and a very broad Fossé or Canal, so that it is capable of sustaining a seige. The Citizens are able to lay the whole country about them under water, as was done by advice of the Prince of Orange during the famous Seige which they sustained against the Spanish Army in 1574. They had recourse to the desperate Remedy of cutting the Banks of the Maes Maas or Meuse and Issel Ijssel, by which all the neighbouring country was turn’d into a kind of Sea, and 1500 Spaniards were drowned before they could retire. The beseiged were reduced to extraiordinary Straits, and forced to make Paper Money, which was afterwards changed into two Peices, of Silver of different Value. They had these Legends upon them, Haec libertatis ergo, and Pugno pro patria; which is as much as to say alluding to the Occasion, These Miseries we suffer for the sake of our Liberty, and in defending our Country. And on the Reverse are these Initials. N. O. U. L. S. G. I. P. A. C. that is Nummus obsessae urbis Lugdunensis sub gubernatione illustrissimi Principis Auriaci cusus. In English The Money of the beseiged city of Leyden, coined during the Government of the most illustrious Prince of Orange. Whilst great Numbers were dying of Famine a body of the Citizens went to Adrian Vander Werf one of their Magistrates and told him they must either surrender or die of Hunger. Upon which that Magnanimous person said to them, Freinds here I am, kill me if you please and divide me amongst you: for it is the same thing to me, whether I die by your hands or those of our Enemies. A year after this terrible seige, the University was founded by the States, to reward the Inhabitants for their courage and sufferings.

          It is call’d Lugdunum Batavorium, to distinguish it from Lyons in France. Hengest Castle or the Berg, said to be built by Hengest the Saxon as a Trophy for his conquest of England is situated in the middle of the city, in an Angle formed by the Channels of the Old and new Rhine, and is planted with Trees. From the Top of it is an Extensive Prospect of the adjacent Country and Villages, the Lake of Haerlem, and the downs, or Sand hills. Some Antiquarians contend, that it was built by the Romans as a garrison for one of their Legions. There is a Well here, out of which, it is said, the Inhabitants took a Fish alive, when the Place was almost famished during the seige that was shewn to the Enemy over the Wall, in order to discourage the beseigers, by making their condition seem better than it was. This Well is now dried up. It is supposed to have been a subterraneous Passage to Catwick on the Sea, which is about four Miles off.
          The pleasantest Street in Leyden is the Rapenburg. It has a fine Canal, over which are several handsome bridges of Stone with Iron Rails. Each Side of it is adorned with a Row of Lofty Trees, and the streets (as well as those of all the other Cities of Holland) have a Small Declivity towards the Canal; so that they can never be dirty even after the greatest Rains. The street that leads from the Hague’s gate to that of Utrecht, is very long, broad, and, airy, and is the most frequented. The third principal Street is that of Haerlem. It has a Canal call’d the Old Rhine upon which are many fine Bridges, that serve for Market places to the City.
          Leyden has given Birth to many eminent Persons; but to none so famous as the Taylor, John of Leyden, King of the Munster Anabaptists. The Disorders occasioned by that crack-brain’d fellow, unluckily happen’d during the Change of Religion, to the no small Prejudice of the Reformation of Germany and the Netherlands. Having seiz’d Munster the Capital of Westphalia, John forc’d the People to treat him as king and wore a Crown of Gold. When he went abroad, this great Monarch had always 2 Harbingers before him, of whom one carried a Sword and the other a Bible. All who did not fall down, and worship him, were immediately sentenced to die, and executed. He caused one of his Concubines to be put to Death for despising his pretended Inspirations. The Bishop of Munster besieged the Place, and John made the poor People suffer as much as Saguntum or Jerusalem suffer’d from Hannibal and Vespasian, assuring them all the while of a miraculous deliverance. The Town was taken at last, and the mock King with his two principal Associates, were sent in derision about the Country. He was afterwards put to Death by having his Flesh torn off with red hot pinchers. The Table on which this Taylor used to sit at work, is still kept; but in my opinion, the Citizens might as well throw it into the Fossé, as neither the shop board nor he can be supposed to do them any Honour. The People of Leyden have a much nobler Curiosity to shew; It is the fine Painting done by Luke of Leyden representing the day of Judgement. The Emperor Rodolph Rudolf set so high a Value upon it, that he offer’d as many Peices of Gold for it, as would cover it. The Hospitals here are numerous, and well taken care of. The Hall for examining and sealing of Cloth, of which 100,000 Peices are said to be made here every Year, is a fine building. The Mall lies without the Hague’s Gate along the Canal but is far inferior in beauty to that of Utrecht.
          The other remarkable things here are, the University the Library, and the Anatomy hall or theatre, where amongst a thousand other Curiosities mentiond by Writers of Travels, there are some Heathen Reliques or Idols, and two Egyptian Mummies, of which one is that of a King of Egypt, beleived to be 1800 years old. The Wonderful art of Embalming and preserving human Bodies for so many Centuries, is absolutely lost; nor can we have any Insight into it from the nicest Enquiries into these dry Remains. The Physick Garden is another Curiosity. The Inscription on old Clusius’s Tomb like most others upon Monuments, flatters him a little. The Poet in extolling this Professor of Botany, who died in 1619 1609 says wittily enough

           Non potuit plures hic quaerere Clusius herbas
           Ergo novas campis quaerit Elysius.
           Since no more Herbs the Earth to Clusius yeilds
           New ones he seeks in the Elysian Feilds.

       This is not all but it is all that is worth copying. At about ten o clock we got home to our lodgings.


Title: Thursday 10th of August 1780
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we got up breakfasted and went down to Go away in the Nine o clock boat. When we got to the wharf we met Mr. Appleton and an Englishman whose name is Du Shan. They came with us to Amsterdam. We pass’d along not quite so beautiful a Country as we have Generally. At about 1 o clock we arrived at Haerlem of which I will take a short Description from that same book.
       I have taken all that is remarkable. At about 4 o clock we set away from Haerlem and arrived at Amsterdam at about Six o clock. We walked about 2 Miles and took our lodgings at l’Hotel des Armes d’Amsterdam. As we were coming along we met several american Gentlemen and among others Mr. Bradford who went to America with me last summer. Mr. Appleton went and took his lodgings a la premiere Bible where those American gentlemen live at present.
       J Q Adams 1780


Title: Friday the 11th of August 1780
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning we got up and breakfasted. After breakfast Pappa went to the premiere bible to see those American Gentlemen. While he was gone a French Gentleman whose name is Duneville came to our lodgings but not finding my Pappa he went away but soon after came back again with Commodore Gillon. They both Gave their address’s and went away. At about 12 o clock Pappa got back with my brother Charles who had been with him. We all three dined at Mr. Duneville’s house with Mr. Appleton Mr. Bradford and some other Americans. After dinner we went to the Stat house. There are a great number of paintings in there. There are also a Great number of the armours of some Dutch Admirals. We went on the top of the State-House and had a fine Prospect of the sea and the whole city and the ships which are in this Harbour. We came down from the top of the Stat house to the bottom which is 195 steps. Mr. Dunevilles son came home with us. After we had got home Commodore Gillon sent Pappa word not to trouble himself about a lodging for he had found one out and that he would send Pappa the Price of them soon.
       I cannot take here a description of this town. It would be too long but I will take it upon some other paper.


Title: Sunday 13th 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Mr. Deneufville came and My Pappa, Commodore Gillon, Mr. Holdenpyl, Captn. Joyner Mr. Appleton Brother Charles and myself went to Haerlem to a Country Seat belonging to Mr. Deneufville. We went to see some curiosities. We saw a great number of stuff’d birds. We saw also a stuff’d Lion. After this we dined at Mr. Deneufville’s seat. After dinner we took a walk to the wood. We walked there till six o clock and then went back to Mr. Deneufville’s seat. We stay’d there till about 8 o clock and then took leave of Mr. Holdenpyl who is going back to Rotterdam where he lives. He is to set away for Rotterdam at ten o clock. At eight o clock we set out Mr. Deneufville, Pappa Commodore Gillon, and My Brother Charles in one Carriage, and Captn. Joyner Mr. Appleton and myself in the other. At about 10 o clock at night we arrived at our lodgings. We wish’d good night to the whole company and then came in.


Title: Monday 14th of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Pappa went out and at about 10 o clock came back. At about 1 o clock Commodore Gillon came and we went with him to dine at a Gentleman’s house whose name is Staphouse. Captn. Joyner, Pappa, Commodore Gillon Brother Charles, and myself dined there. After dinner we all went on board Commodore Gillon’s ship. Pappa, Mr. Staphouse and Captn. Joyner went on foot but Commodore Gillon Brother Charles and myself went in a Carriage. We went on board the ship which is to be call’d the South Carolina. She is a ship of forty guns thirty-two 36 pounders on the main deck and 8 12 pounders on the Quarter deck. I saw Mr. Amiel on board who is first Lieutenant, I saw also Mr. Fitzgerald and Mr. Mastin, who are midshipmen on board. We stay’d there some time and after that we came back. Captn. Joyner did not return. She is a new ship and this will be her first cruize. She is a very fine Ship indeed. When we had got about as far as the statehouse we took leave of Mr. StapHouse and when we got home Commodore Gillon took leave of us. After we got home Commodore Gillon sent Pappa a Letter which came from some Gentlemen on board the Alliance. She was in Latt 46. D 13.M. Long 36. D 16 M.


Title: Wednesday 16th of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Pappa went out and came back again at about eleven o clock. At about two o clock Commodore Gillon came to our lodgings and went out to dinner with Pappa but my brother Charles and myself dined at our lodgings. At about four o clock Pappa came back without Commodore Gillon. Pappa drank tea at our lodgings. After tea Brother Charles and myself went to take a walk and got back at about seven o clock. I Wrote a Letter to Paris. The Post goes from here to there every Monday and thursday at half after 8 o clock in the Evening and arrives there every friday and monday at the same hour.


Title: Friday 18th of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Mr. Deneufville’s son came here with his father’s carriage and at about ten o clock Pappa, Mr. Deneufville son, brother Charles, and myself went to see the admiralty. We saw all the magazines of cables, ropes compasses, Blocks, sails, Flags, &c. After this we went on board one of the Dutch Men of war of seventy four Guns which was on the camels which are machines made to lift the body of the ship this harbour not being deep enough to come in without. The ship is call’d the Admiral de Ruyter who was a famous dutch Admiral. The Ships here are not so long as the French ships are in general. The Officers on board treated us with a great deal of Politeness. The dutch ships as well as every thing else in Holland are exceeding clean. The decks are as clean as any room could be kept. After this we went on board a yatcht which was very fine and elegant indeed. This Yatcht is for the Admiralty whenever they go out on a party of pleasure. After this we went to see a seventy four gun ship which is on the stocks and then we came home again, when we got to our lodgings Mr. Deneufville son left us. We all dined at home. After dinner Pappa went to the Premiere Bible to see some American Gentlemen who live there. Pappa got back at about six oclock.


Title: Saturday 19th of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Pappa, brother Charles, and myself went to a booksellers shop where we bought a dictionary, a Grammar, and the History of Gilblas in Dutch. We met there Mr. Guile who brought letters for us Mr. Ingraham and another american Gentleman, we came to our lodgings and Mr. Guile gave us some letters. I receive two letters one dated april tenth and the other may eighth but no news. At about two oclock Commodore Gillon came here and, Pappa Commodore Gillon brother Charles and myself went to dine at an American Gentleman’s house who has been here Nine years. After dinner we went to see some horses. We saw seven horses which were of a brown colour with white manes and tails. They are very rare and they ask five thousand Gilders for the seven. We came back and drank tea at Mr. Le Roi (for that is the name of the Gentleman’s) house. After tea we all came home. Commodore Gillon did not come in.


Title: Sunday 20th of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Commodore Gillon came here at about nine o clock and We all went to a gentleman’s house who lives in the Country. We walk’d out of the City and then we found a coach with four horses waiting for us which Commodore Gillon had hired for us. At about a quarter after eleven o clock we arrived there. We went to walk with that Gentleman Whose name is Hooft and who is a Burger master of the city of Amsterdam, we walk’d some time and then came back and dined. After dinner we went to see a Gentleman whose name is Crommelin, he came from New York fifty Six years agone. We stay’d there some time and walk’d in his Garden and then came back to the Burger Masters and drank tea there. After tea we set away from there, and arrived at home at about half after eight o clock.


Title: Monday 21st of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Commodore Gillon came here and went out with Pappa to take a Walk and did not come back till about half after eleven o clock: at about two o clock Pappa went out to dinner but Brother Charles and I dined at home. At about five o clock a man came to be a Dutch Master for Brother Charles and I, he is to give us his first Lesson to morrow morning at six o clock. At about 6 o clock Pappa went to the play with Commodore Gillon and got back at about ten o clock P.M.


Title: Tuesday 22d of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Pappa went out to take a walk and did not come back till about three quarters after eleven. At about half after twelve Mr. Guile came here. Pappa dined at home and Mr. Guile dined here. Very bad weather all the fore part of the day but in the afternoon it clear’d up. The weather is very uncertain here. There was one man kill’d and another stunn’d to day by a clap of thunder in the morning at about nine o clock just out of the gates of this city.


Title: Wednesday 23d of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       Pappa went out in the morning and came home and dined at home. Our Master comes every morning at six and every noon. Nothing very remarkable this day.
       Reading a Volume entitled the World I found this fable.


Title: Thursday 24th of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This day at about half after twelve PM. Commodore Gillon came here and went into the country with Pappa, but Brother Charles and I did not go. At about half after five Pappa came back and stay’d about an hour when Commodore Gillon came again and Pappa went out to spend the evening some where with Commodore Gillon but I do not know where. At about half after ten o clock Pappa got home again.
       Reading the World I found another fable which I will transcribe also.


Title: Friday 25th of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at about half after ten o clock Mr. Leroi came to our lodgings and then went with Pappa brother Charles and myself to see the medicinal garden, we saw there several american Plants. After having seen this we walk’d out of town upon the dyke and got home at about two o clock. Pappa dined out but brother Charles and myself dined at home. At about half after four o clock Pappa got home and at about five we went to Mr. Leroi’s where we drank tea, after tea Mr. Le Roi and two other Gentlemen went with us to see the Jews Synagogue and hear them sing. When we first got there it was not begun and therefore we went to another Synagogue Which does not sing tonight. When we got back it was almost time for them to begin. An old man with a long beard read a chapter of the bible in hebrew after which three of them sung. They seem’d to me to be songs as I beleive they were and not psalms. There was a vast congregation. The women have a place up above but no woman can go to church without being married but the men can.
       They say there are an hundred Thousand Jews in this town, I am sure they are all wretched creatures for I think I never saw in my life such a set of miserable looking people, and they would steal your eyes out of your head if they possibly could. At about eight o clock we got back. Brother Charles and I went to the Post office for Letters but found but one which was for Stephens.


Title: Saturday the 26th of August 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning at about eight o clock Mr. Le Roi came here and went with Pappa, brother Charles and myself to buy some books. We went through the Exchange into a street call’d Kalve Straat. We went to 2 booksellers shops and Pappa bought a Latin Grammar and some Greek testaments. After this we went along another road back again, coming we came through the Exchange. At about twelve o clock we got back to our lodgings. Mr. Le Roi left us. In the afternoon brother Charles and I went to take a walk.


Title: Monday August 28th 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Pappa went out to take a walk and did not get back till about half after one o clock. At about two o clock Pappa went out to dine at Mr. Staphorst where I dined Some Time agone. At about half after four o clock Mr. McCrery came here with another Gentleman to see Pappa but not finding him they went away again. At about Six o clock Pappa got back to our lodgings. I received three Letters from Paris from my Schoolmates which Mr. McCrery brought with him.


Title: Tuesday August 29th 1780.
From: Adams, John Quincy
To:

       This morning Mr. Le Roi came here and also Mr. Guild. Mr. Guild dined here and drank tea here. At about tea time Mr. LeRoi came here. He has recieved a letter from Bruxelles in which there is some good news and an Extract of which I will now take.
       Extract of a Letter from Bruxelles August 27th. 1780.
       The English Post due three days ago is not yet arrived but by a private Conveyance we learn that the English Admiralty have received certain advice that their fleet bound to the West Indias consisting of fifty four Sail with a regiment of Soldiers on board convoy’d by a Ship of the line and a frigate and accompanied by five East India Ships had, on the 8th Instant in Lat. 36:40 and Long 15 West fallen into the combined French and Spanish fleet from Cadiz, and that almost the whole convoy was taken.
       After tea Pappa went out with Mr. Le Roi and Mr. Guile and got back at about 8 o clock.