Home Products System partner End customers Insurance Contact Companies 24h hotline 07664-505590 HomeEnd customersMoisture in the home Moisture in the home overview How was it then? And today? Effect of heat and moisture on the home Humidity and temperature Comfortable living Ventilate and heat properly Court rulings on the mold problem Get to grips with the gray horse Summer makes the walls damp Mold grows Is everything tight? Ventilate in summer Controlled ventilation PROFESSIONAL WATER DAMAGE IMMEDIATE AID ✅ Effective immediate measures ✅ Nationwide ✅ 60 years of experience ✅ Available 24/7 Feuchtigkeitsschäden in Wohnungen sind in zunehmenden Maße Anlass für Streitigkeiten zwischen den Mietern und Vermietern, insbesondere dann, wenn sichtbare Folgeschäden, wie ablösende Tapeten, Schimmelpilzbefall, Stockflecken usw., bereits eingetreten sind. Nicht selten enden derartige Auseinandersetzungen vor Gericht. Je nach Interessenlage ist man mit Schuldzuweisungen schnell bei der Hand: Mangelhaftes Be- und Entlüften und Nutzungsfehler seitens der Vermieter, unzureichende Wärmedämmung bzw. bauliche Mängel seitens der Mieterschaft. Wie war's denn früher ? In Zeiten, in denen Heizenergie beinahe unbegrenzt und billig zu haben war, spielte die Problematik der Feuchteschäden in Wohnungen eine eher untergeordnete Rolle. Wohngebäude waren früher in der Regel meist so undicht, dass die natürliche Lüftung alleine schon ausreichte, die vorhandene Feuchtigkeit zu entfernen. Nicht selten konnten bei vor 1970 errichteten Gebäuden acht- bis zehnfache Luftwechselraten gemessen werden. Zudem bewirkte die sogenannte Einfachverglasung der Fenster früherer Jahre einen Kondensatanfall, gerade an den Scheiben. Eine Wasserrinne am Fensterfuß mit Ablaufrohr nach außen verhinderte die Feuchtigkeitsbildung auf den Fensterbänken und an den Fensterleibungen. Wände und Decken aus Kalk- oder Gipsputz und Fußböden aus Holz waren durchaus in der Lage, erhebliche Mengen an Innenfeuchtigkeit aufzunehmen und zu speichern. Selbst Gardinen, Polstermöbel und Bettzeug sowie die Bekleidung aus Naturfasern verkörperten einen idealen Feuchtigkeitsspeicher für den Gesamtfeuchtehaushalt der Wohnung. Und heute ? Heute sorgen veränderte Bauweisen, gewandelte Lebensgewohnheiten und nicht zuletzt die verschärften Gesetze und Verordnungen zur Energieeinsparung und Umweltbeachtung in Wohngebäuden für völlig neue Verhältnisse. Wir wohnen mittlerweile in zentralbeheizten Wohnungen mit dichten, isolierverglasten Fenstern. Alles ist technisch modern ausgestattet und bequem zu handhaben. Aber: In dem Maße, wie nun dichter schließende Fenster und Türen eingebaut bzw. vorhandene abgedichtet wurden, ergaben sich äußerst günstige Bedingungen für eine zunehmende Anreicherung und Speicherung von Feuchtigkeit mit einer auffallenden Zunahme der Schimmelpilzbildung in den Wohnungen. Während früher durch die Undichtigkeiten von Fenstern und Türen und zusätzlich über die Öfen zum Schornstein ein häufiger Luftwechsel ständig automatisch stattfand und die feuchtebelastete warme Luft gegen trockenere ausgetauscht wurde, führt gerade heute die erhebliche Verringerung des Luftwechsels zu einem drastischen Anstieg von Feuchtigkeitsansammlungen in bewohnten Räumlichkeiten. Heute heißt die Devise: Energie sparen! Man heizt nicht mehr so hoch, man hat besser isoliert (wärmegedämmt) und lüftet nicht mehr so ausgiebig. In der Regel sind beide Ehegatten berufstätig und die Wohnung ist während der Dauer der Arbeitszeit unbewohnt und die Zentralheizung tagsüber meist ausgeschaltet, um nicht unnütz Wärme zu verbrauchen und unnötige Kosten zu verursachen. The damage reports received by housing companies are increasing and range from the mere change of materials to their partial or complete destruction. Effect of heat and moisture on the home Do you know how warmth and moisture affect the home from inside and outside? From outside: sun, rain, temperature and humidity. From inside: heating, cooking, showering, bathing, ventilation. And don't forget: the warmth and moisture that humans and indoor plants give off - and that's far more than you might think. Take a look at the moisture-releasing evaporation in apartments at a room temperature of 20 ° C: Human, light activity: 30 - 40 g / h Drying laundry, spun: 50 - 200 g / h Drying laundry, dripping wet: 100 - 500 g / h Indoor flowers: 5-10 g / h Potted plants: 7-15 g / h Medium-sized rubber tree: 10-20 g / h Free water surface (aquarium): 40 g / h / m2 surface With regard to the problem of moisture damage, in particular the increase in the above-mentioned water concentration is of not inconsiderable interest. Let's just calculate how much indoor moisture can arise in a medium-sized living room: It releases into the air: 5 potted plants 50 g / h 1 rubber tree 20 g / h 1 aquarium 10 g / h Do it together: 80 g / h -> 1920 g / day Now humans join in - and they moisturize far more than a plant, namely 40 g / h. If he spends only eight hours a day in this room, then there is an additional 320 g of water per day in addition to the 1,920 g of water already listed above. With three people, that equates to almost a liter within eight hours. The moisture emissions when cooking in the kitchen and when bathing and showering in the bathroom bring additional moisture. Up to 12 liters of water per day can very easily develop in the home. Humidity and temperature The air in the room can only absorb a certain amount of water vapor, and that depends on the room temperature. The warmer the air, the more it can store until it is saturated. At 20 ° C, one cubic meter of air can hold up to 17.5 g of water, at 0 ° C, however, only 5 g. Now the temperature can change quickly; for example, if you turn off the heating. And then it happens: warm, humid air that cools down can no longer hold the moisture, and what becomes too much for it is deposited as condensation on the surfaces of walls, windows, floors and furniture. For all its cleanliness, the bathroom is a place where large amounts of moisture often accumulate - the condensation on the cold mirror surfaces and window panes is a clear indication of this. Comfortable living The physical well-being, health and performance of people are, regardless of the type of construction, highly dependent on a comfortable, healthy room climate. With a thermometer and a humidity meter, you can quickly find the right room climate for optimal comfort. Experience has shown that the following temperatures and humidity values must be taken into account for the individual rooms: Living room: Summer 22 - 25 ° C, 40 - 60% RH Winter 20 - 23 ° C, 40 - 50% RH Bedroom: Summer 19 - 22 ° C, 40 - 60% RH winter 17 - 20 ° C, 40 - 50% RH kitchen: summer 20 - 22 ° C, 40 - 60% RH winter 18 - 20 ° C, 40 - 50% RH Bathroom: Summer 22-25 ° C, 40-60% RH winter 20-23 ° C, 40-50% RH WC: Summer 19-22 ° C, 40-60 % RH winter l1-20 ° C, 40-50 % RH hallway: Summer 19 - 22 ° C, 40 - 60% RH winter l7 - 20 ° C, 40 - 50% RH By the way, the wall temperature should only be around 1 to 2 ° C below the room air temperature on average so that the Person still feels comfortable in his apartment. Ventilate and heat properly Here the emphasis on the word should be right . Correct heating: Choose the right room temperature based on our specifications: One degree more in the whole apartment means 6% more energy costs. Therefore, do not set your heating higher than the comfort level requires. Heat your rooms differently: You will agree that the hall, kitchen and bedroom do not need to be as warm as the living room. It is also important not to obstruct radiators. No obstacles should be placed in the way of the unhindered heat circulation. During the night, a person releases about half a liter to a liter of water into the ambient air. Moisture damage and water damage in apartments are increasingly the cause of disputes between tenants and landlords, especially if visible consequential damage, such as peeling wallpaper, mold, mold stains, etc. has already occurred. It is not uncommon for such disputes to end in court. Depending on your interests, you can quickly assign blame: Inadequate ventilation and usage errors on the part of the landlord, inadequate thermal insulation or structural defects on the part of the tenants. Therefore, do not place furniture too close to the radiator. Do not draw curtains or blinds in front of the radiators, the heat builds up behind them, the room itself remains cold. It is a bad habit of many tenants to simply turn off their heating during the day and then turn it up all the more in the evening. Many professionals practice it this way. Reduce your heating to around 15 to 16 ° C during the day. This temperature is sufficient to prevent the walls from cooling down. If you set your heating higher for a short time in the evening hours, you will notice how a pleasant and comfortable room temperature prevails again in a short time. It has been clearly proven that tenants who heat their apartment evenly throughout the day have fewer heating costs in their bill than tenants who constantly turn off their radiators when they are absent and turn them on more when they are present. Also avoid a temperature gradient from room to room. Therefore keep the inner room doors as closed as possible. Don't let your radiators breathe in! Air worsens the heat output considerably. Correct heating also includes correct ventilation A decisive factor in avoiding the accumulation of moisture in apartments and the resulting consequential damage is a tenant's ventilation behavior that is adapted to modern heat and insulation measures, which ensures sufficient air exchange and an exchange of the amount of moisture-laden air. Therefore the ventilation must be particularly effective. The recipe is simple: several short-term ventilation (draft) with the windows wide open without turning off the radiators during ventilation (several times a day for about 5 to 10 minutes). Since there should be no migration of moisture-laden air into colder rooms, the doors between rooms of different warmth should be kept closed during ventilation. It is important, however, that with this so-called shock ventilation, the furniture and walls, It would also be wrong if the used warm air z. B. would lead a living room by opening the other interior rooms in other, unheated rooms (z. B. corridor). Here, the excess moisture would immediately condense on the cooler surfaces of the little or unheated rooms and form moisture or wetness. Therefore, once again a short version of our advice: Avoid ventilating with the window tilted (continuous ventilation) during the heating period! A multiple short draft with the window fully open is better! Constant heating of all rooms to a set room temperature of 20 ° is more economical and more practical! The costs with this heating behavior are demonstrably significantly lower! It is uneconomical and harmful to only strongly heat the room in which you are mainly staying while the other rooms are almost not heated. Heating is like any other comfort in life: moderate but regular. You should also ventilate regularly, briefly, but vigorously! Regular ventilation for 5 - 10 minutes is much better than leaving the windows in the tilted position all day. It's not just about saving costs or conserving materials - it's also about your health, because mold can cause allergies and respiratory diseases. Court rulings on the mold problem: 1. Das Auftreten von Schimmel ist die typische Folge von Kondenswasserbildung und daher aufgrund bauphysikalischer Gesetze der erste Anschein dafür, dass ein fehlerhaftes Heizungs- und Lüftungsverhalten ursächlich ist. (LG München, WM 88, 352) 2. Ein erster Anschein für die Verantwortlichkeit des Mieters ist ebenfalls gegeben, wenn in einer vormals mängelfreien Wohnung Feuchtigkeitsschäden erstmals auftreten, nachdem der betreffende Mieter die Wohnung bezogenhat. (LG Lüneburg, ZMR 85, 127) 3. Der Mieter muss ausreichend lüften und dabei Besonderheiten der Wohnung beachten. Bei alten Fenstern, die ohnehin nicht dicht schließen, muss er z. B. weniger lüften als bei neuen Doppelfenstern mit Gummidichtung, die einen fast hermetischen Außenabschluss bilden. (LG Hannover, WM 85, 22) 4. Der Mieter macht sich schadensersatzpflichtig, wenn er die ihm mietvertraglich obliegende Obhutspflicht verletzt hat, dass sich in seiner Wohnung Feuchtigkeitsschäden (Schimmelpilzbefall) gebildet haben, die durch ausreichendes Lüften hätten vermieden werden können und die Notwendigkeit zu lüften auch für den nicht sachverständigen Nutzer spürbar war (hier: stickige verbrauchte Raumluft). (LG Berlin,- 16 S 19/84) Dem Schimmel zu Leibe rücken Correct ventilation is extremely important, especially in damp basement rooms! Especially in the basement, unsightly problems can arise in summer when the weather is warm and humid. This can result in musty air, condensation problems or mold growth on walls and objects stored in the basement. This was recently reported by the hausgarten.net internet portal and gave the tip: in most cases, correct ventilation of the basement prevents moisture damage. A cellar wall that is not insulated is almost as cold as the ground behind it. This means that these basement walls can adapt to the temperature of the outside air much more slowly in the transition periods. In particular, the basement floor and the lower part of the basement walls usually stay cold for a long time. If the room is ventilated in warm, humid weather, the moisture condenses in these cold areas and there is a risk of mold growth if the moisture is longer. For this reason, you should only ventilate the cellar extensively in dry, warm weather so that the cellar can warm up more quickly and the risk of condensation is reduced. In this case, cross ventilation is recommended in order to enable the greatest possible exchange of air within a short period of time. To ensure that the air can freely enter everywhere, walls should not be blocked with large furniture or objects. No carpet should be placed on the floor. However, uncovered slatted crates and open shelves are possible. If it is not possible to ventilate on warm, humid days, additional moisture exposure, e.g. through washing or drying, should be avoided. Due to the increased risk of mold, no moisture-absorbing materials should be stored in the basement. Such hygroscopic materials are, for example, leather goods. If the basement components are sufficiently heated, the risk of condensation or mold formation is reduced. In a new building, it may be necessary to use a construction dryer to dry out a cellar that is still damp. Summer makes the walls damp In winter there is usually too little ventilation in order not to lose valuable heat. In summer it is exactly the opposite. If you let in too much warm and therefore moist air, you also run the risk of a mold problem. Who thinks at the lake or in the beer garden that mold problems can arise at home, especially at these hot temperatures? But the number of German households suffering from fungal infestation is steadily increasing and all too often the beginning of the unpleasant spread of mold is to be found in the hot season. Mold grows According to a study by the Friedrich Schiller University in Jena, at least three million households across Germany now suffer from visible mold infestation. The chimney sweep association estimates moisture, fungus or water damage in every fifth apartment . In particular, the invisible spores of mold in the home are extremely harmful to health - there is a risk of allergies and respiratory problems. Is everything tight? The reason for the steady increase in mold growth is to be found in the airtight outer shell of modern buildings prescribed by the Energy Saving Ordinance (EnEV). Because natural air exchange can no longer take place in the houses, the load on the building fabric increases dramatically due to high humidity. In a four-person household, for example, the residents give up up to ten liters of water a day, which is absorbed by the air in the room. Because this moisture can no longer escape, it settles in the wall and thus provides ideal nesting conditions for mold spores. Ventilate in summer Active ventilation is therefore more important than ever. But especially in summer you increase the risk of condensation by manual ventilation, because the warmer the air, the more water it can absorb. If this summery, humid outside air hits a colder surface, such as an interior or cellar wall, it cools there and the moisture is "sweated out": The condensate released in this way not only remains in the wall, it loosens and binds from wallpaper and Colors are also optimal nutrients for mold growth. Where rooms are noticeably cooler than the outside air, the following applies: close the windows during the day and only ventilate them in the evening. Basement rooms in particular should not be ventilated during the day. Ventilate in a controlled manner In the hot season it is therefore not only important to remove excess moisture from the apartment, but at the same time not to ventilate additional moisture. Automatic ventilation systems offer the ideal solution for this. The system automatically ensures the necessary exchange of air and keeps the humidity at the ideal level. The home ventilation not only acts as a "mold hunter" and ensures a healthy indoor climate. Due to the energy efficiency of a controlled ventilation system, ventilation heat losses can be reduced by up to 80 percent, which also saves money. If such a system is not available, only discipline in manual ventilation helps. PROFESSIONAL WATER DAMAGE IMMEDIATE AID ✅ Effective immediate measures ✅ Nationwide ✅ 60 years of experience ✅ Available 24/7 Weitere Produkte und Leistungen welche Sie interessieren könnten: Luftentfeuchter Kondenstrockner Bautrockner Dämmschichttrocknung Hohlraumtrocknung Bauheizung Verdichtungs-Luftumwälzungsaggregat Ortungs- und Messtechnik Gebäude Messtechnik Stationäre Entfeuchtungsanlagen Unsere Standorte: Freiburg Emmendingen Offenburg Lahr Waldkirch Denzlingen Bad Krozingen Breisach Gera Jena München Deutschland Produkte: Leistungen: Luftentfeuchter Bautrockner Kondenstrockner Ortungs und Messtechnik Feuchtigkeitsregelung Entfeuchtungsanlage Diagnostik Leckageortung Feuchtigkeitsmessung Bautrocknung Sanierung Gebäudetrocknung DÖLCO GmbH Gewerbestr. 19 79112 Freiburg info@doelco.de www.doelco.de +49(0)7664/50559-0 Informationen: Partner: Wasserschaden Versicherung Luftentfeuchter Bautrockner Kondenstrockner Messtechnik Technokompetenz Gann Flir Testo TÜV Rheinland PK Concept Impressum | Kontakt © Copyright by DÖLCO GmbH | 2020