Auto Tuning VAZ Oct 13 Tuning VAZ 2106 | Installing two carburettors on a classic engine Tuning VAZ » Engine I think that many will be interested in this topic. And therefore I will try to present it as detailed and understandable as possible. Naturally, in order to do all this, you must at least be able to hold a wrench and a screwdriver in your hands. So let's start: The fact is that at high revs the engine lacks: 1. air; 2. fuel With a high mileage, it can be seen that the pistons of the second and third cylinders are blacker (re-enriched mixture), and the first and fourth cylinders are light (depleted). The issue is solved by installing two carburetors, which give a more balanced flow of the fuel-air mixture than one even fancy carburetor. With 2 carbides, the engine pulls very well on the bottom (moment) and pulls very robustly on the top (power). To install this device, we need the following tools and materials: - we will need keys and screwdrivers of different sizes, pliers, a drill, a grinder, and a vice, of course. - from the materials we need, of course, two carburetors of the same model, I installed the simplest Weber model 2106, other specialists also installed Solex model 21083, I think you can install others if you wish. You also need two collectors from the Oka, as it turned out, it is not so easy to find them, we also need every little thing like tees for gasoline, antifreeze, vacuum, and, of course, all these hoses. In addition, you may need a cutter for metal and gas drive parts. So, let's start describing the installation of two carburetors. To begin with, if you have a heated bottom of the carburetor in your car, I would recommend draining the antifreeze, after which we remove the carburetor. After that, we unscrew the collector mounting nuts (there are five of them) and carefully remove the collector, then we take the purchased collectors from the Oka and put the carburetors on them. First, to the first collector, then to the second, then we open both carburetor chambers with our hand and see if the collector edges are sticking out anywhere (this is especially true for Weber type carburetors). If it doesn't stick out, then it's okay, go to the second carburetor and manifold and do the same. If, nevertheless, these edges stick out, then we take a drill, insert a roller cutter into it and, holding the collector in a vice, grind off these edges. The work is, in principle, simple, but long, you need to do it carefully. After the work done, we put the carburetor on the manifold again and look, the collector edge sticks out or not. If yes, then we repeat the operation with the cutter. Then we take the collector and watch the channels. Experience shows that the quality of production is so lousy that studs sticking out on my collectors inside, thereby creating frenzied resistance to the flow. If there are any protrusions, then they must be eliminated. After that, it is necessary to try on the collectors to the block head, and then make slots for the thread in place. It's not difficult either. After that, you need to correctly set the collector, usually for this you need to remove the block head, but I did it and so, I hit it almost exactly. Then you need to make the central collector fasteners. I made it from a strip of steel with a thickness of 3-4 mm, but you can also from anything else. The collectors are fastened with two nuts along the edges (for this, slots have already been made with a grinder), one in the center and two (the most inconvenient) at the bottom closer to the central fastener along the nut on the collector. To do this, it will be necessary to make two metal plates, which will press the collector (this is important, because if you do not press it in these places, the antifreeze will go into the cylinders and the engine will work poorly, it has been verified by our experience). this is how it will look in the intermediate version (photo by Eugene GTI): So, we have secured the collector and we can go further. Now, through the tees, we connect the heating of the collectors and the vacuum brake booster (if it is not there, then these holes will have to be plugged) Now we take the carburetors and set them as on a regular manifold. As for the carburetors, it must be said that it is desirable that they are the same, and the components are also the same. When installing the quality and quantity screws on both carburetors, loosen the same amount. Now that the carburetors are on, it's time to get to the gas drive. If the carburetors are Solex, then it is easier to make a cable drive there. For them, there are special plastic pads that are put on the carburetor at the point where the gas thrust is attached. If you look at it, it is clear. For Weber, they will need to be redone. Personally, I bought two throttle cables from Tavria, they are about 40 cm in length, and did a regular drive. The end of the cables was fixed on those plastic things and in the place where the old rods were attached to the gas pedal, the brackets for attaching the outer cover of the cable are very simple to make. The main thing is to make sure that the dampers open as synchronously as possible. Now, the bay is drained antifreeze, you can try to start. Naturally, it is advisable to tighten all the hoses with clamps, the first time it may not start (I started from the second). Everyone can make a filter as he pleases, I cut four ovals from a sheet of metal with a grinder to the size of a regular filter, put a filter on each carburetor. After the engine has started, it needs to be warmed up, after that it needs to be adjusted. You can turn to bikers who adjust multi-carburetor motorcycles with the help of a vacuum gauge bar. You can make this bar yourself from econometers, but they, like all VAZ devices, have an error, be healthy, first they need to be calibrated. I adjusted the mixture quality sensor IKS-1, it is screwed in instead of a candle and you can observe the color of the mixture, it should be light blue at idle. First in the first, then in the second, and so on, everywhere there should be the same color of the mixture. You need to set the speed with the number screw, that's actually all, the suction is not difficult to do, although in the summer the engine works well without it. As for the performance indicators, the phrases, they say, the consumption is large, frankly, nonsense, my consumption was 9. 5 - 10 liters per hundred in the city and 8.5 liters on the highway at speeds over 100 km / h. At the time of this writing, more than 1000 km have been driven off, and the consumption data has not changed. As for the dynamics, the car accelerates an order of magnitude faster, works more readily at high speeds, pulls well at low speeds, in general, there are some pluses. I found only one minus - the price, well, and there is also a small dip, if you press the gas sharply at low speeds (1000-1800), but it can be removed. When tested on the highway, the car accelerated without much strain to 160 km / h in 4th gear at 6000 rpm, and this is not the limit. Testing continues: Options for other installations: 0 Comment (s) " Similar news Tuning VAZ | Polishing and mating intake and exhaust manifold holes ... 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