**My Traveler Ride** A little progress on my 1980 IH Scout traveler.  
Purchased in fresno, CA from son of an IH dealer owner, was in great shape. Went through a severe accident, decided to not keep it original. The outcome is a little fun, see pictures.  
  
Engine- 1982 345v8 out of a low mile bus, was fuel injected, currently 4brl carburetor, new seals, core olugs, welch plugs throughout, rear main replacement with speedi sleeve, modified oil pan for dual drain plugs, stock internals, replaced water pump, IH/ duraspark/ GM ignition. Strong motor but smokes a little, May be oil drain back or valve seals, not sure. Compression, vacuum, oil pressure all check out. 2 1/2" dual exhaust w/ flowmaster mufflers, custom tri y block hugger headers, ceramic coated with ball collector flanges. 1979 Scout waterneck ordered up a 1210 waterneck for more room, lokar throttle cable, claimer throttle cable aluminum bracket. Like to add FI back in, hotter cam. Fabricated fan shroud for body lift, 195 thermostat for awesome heat  
drivetrain-  
1991 GM 4l60 od transmission with IH Parts America adapter. Transmission supposedly GM factory rebuilt. Shifts into gear but wont shift out of first. Did a speedi sleeve fix on splined yoke torque converter due to rot and leaks. Lokar dip stick, fluid and filter change custom fabricated crossmember with 700r4 trans mount, perma cool electric fan transmission cooler mounted behind driver side headlight core support. Lokar tv cable.  
1991 np241c transfer case, rebuilt with jb conversions sye 1350 kit and cable shift kit. Equipped with TSM parking brake kit. Nwf clocking ring.  
4"od rear drive shaft w/ 1410. No front drive shaft yet. Need to sort out pinion angle on front axle first.   
14 bolt cab and chassis rear, 4.10 gearing, open for now. Hope to install a detroit locker and then reseal.  
1980 Scout Dana 44 front with Chevy 8 lug outers/ warner hubs, oem shafts. Need to regear to match rear, cut and turn for pinion angle/ caster, want ARB front locker. Used chris pucci's awesome direction on this outer conversion.  
  
Brakes- 1975 k20 calipers, discs all four corners. 1995 Chevy astro van hydroboost with psc pump, rebuilt mc, new brake lines, kartec fluid filter, summit racing heat sink finned rail cooler mounted to behind front frame crossmember.  
  
Steering- psc steering gear tapped for hydro assist. Hd tie rod and drag link with Chevy 1 ton tres. Jeep wagoner pitman arm, factory non tilt column, borgeson joint, grant 13" wheel. Wheel's too small, steering is very light. Want a larger wheel, add more weight to the steering feel. Any ideas?  
  
Suspension- front IH Parts America front shackle reversal, hd u bolt plates, Bilstein shocks light racing bump stops, 1992 Ford f350 upper shock towers, spring under still. 4" Rough Country Scout leaf springs. Debating spring over or coil over radius arm setup. Rear 2001 Chevy hd leaf springs with overloads removed, light racing bump stops, Bilstein shocks, fabricated upper shock mounts outside frame rails, fabricated spring mounts front and rear, setup for IHPA rear sway bar, not connected.   
  
Wheels/ tires- dick cepek mud countrys, 35 x 12.5x 17 8 lug. Are teflon mojave wheels 17 x 8 8 lug. Steel waggon wheel full size spare.   
Electrical related- kwikwire 22 circuit harness. Battery switch, optima red top mounted in bed with heavy gauge cables. New lamp sockets, bulbs, integrated FI harness for future use. Deutsch connectors used throughout, so much better than weatherpack style, more choices.need you add in relays, but most everything is working, still sorting out dome light circuit, need to wire up heater/ defroster.  
  
Interior- stock crazy rust plaid. Autometer phantom II gauges in IH Parts America aluminum gauge cluster rivnut used to mount. Hind sight I would have ordered radio delete as the radio hole doesn't match the chop job in my dash. Oh well. Custom transmission covery to mount moroso 6 switch toggle switch bank, B&M shifter, and transfer case shifter out of diamond plate. Removed factory center console. Have a factory heater/ defroster unit to repair and mount, still to do, in progress. New windshield and seal, self dimming/ compass/ temperature rear view mirror. Need to recover passenger bucket seats and remount seat belts, order up defroster hose, finish rivnut work on dash panel, sort dome light switch circuit (think I have the polarity on the circuit reversed as they work great till you shut the door, then the fuse blows!).  
Need to buy and mount fire extinguisher, want a permanent mounted oba system too. Versa track system in rear for cargo tie down points.  
  
Body- pretty well intact, need to replace taillight sheet metal on one side, rocker panel on passenger side, bang out passenger front fender. Still want a set of bulged and flared set of fiberglass fenders to run larger tires. One day and $5k. Running stock traveler top, in good shape, have terra top and bulkhead. Terrands top needs glass, have seals. Needs to be refinished too. Fabricated rear bumper/ receiver hitch, tow points, high and tight to body. Need to build a rear tire carrier for huge tire- build off of current rear bumper, mounted high, incorporate a tail gate to also use when terra top is in place, and to extend the bed to carry my ktms but still usable with traveler top installed. Front bumper is unfinished but currently setup for warner xd9000i winch with remote. Will build out to incorporate a brush guard hoop, auxiliary lighting with lazer star leds. Would like to mount up a 40"+ light bar on the windshield, shorter one on front bumper. Repaired windshield frame with windshield removed. Need to build nerf bars/ side steps. Probably will make them to where they can be used as air tanks.  
  
Sorry for lengthy post, but maybe it will give someone ideas. My goal with this truck is to be able to use it as a daily driver, camping, long trips, somewhat bulletproof and definitely reliable, incorporating parts that will be readily available for years to come.I don't plan on selling this one, my third Scout. Yesterday I finally was able to get it registered, making it legal for the first ime in 4 years. It's been out of service for that long! Major milestone reached.  
  
Wants- ARB front locker, detroit rear locker, coil over/ radius arm front suspension (or spring over with Chevy leaves), oba, train horn, dual battery setup, air conditioning. These are items I don't have yet and are long range to dos. Attached Images |  | 20161102_180555.jpg  
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What would I do different so far/ lessons learned  
transfer case clocking ring- nothing would do but for me to get the transfer case as high as possible for clearance. My Scout has a clean bottom of frame, that is, nothing extends below the bottom of the frame rails. Good intentions, but the nwf clocking ring I used has been nothing but trouble, a source of leaks. Between core plug issues (replaced back of engine ones twice, remove your engine!), rear main seal issues (did it twice because it didn't work the first time), and leak between transfer case and transmission (due to clocking ring) I removed the transmission transfer case at least ten times. Avid the clocking ring if possible.   
Tv cable- do everything you can to use the factory GM setup with bracketry, maintains factory geometry. Pita.  
GM 4l60- big transmission. Don't buy used transmissions, or rebuilds with no paperwork, r have been sitting "for awhile." this transmission is a hd version of the 700r4, basically identical. This is good, but like the 700r4, the connection between the transmission and transfer case is wet. Buy a manual and use it. I bought one but didn't. Found this out the hard way. Removed transmission several times because of this. I can now do it in under 20 minutes!  
TSM driveline brake- this wants to be a great product... It goes between the transfer care output yoke and drive shafts connection consisting of a bracket, rotor, and giant mechanical caliper. The instructions are horrible. I'm not sure about the strength of it either because the rotor bolts to replacement aluminum u joint/ yoke caps. The TSM gentleman was very helpful, but I had to build a bracket to mount the caliper, build one to mount the cable retainer, buy a custom length cable (California cables was great), and I still don't have it right. This is my fault, but in hindsight, I would go with the cadillac el dorado option for parking brake equipped brake calipers for the rear. I have pressure on the rotor, but I can't get it to hold with truck in gear at idle. Needs more work, rehab. If you go the driveline brake route from TSM, call before ordering and discuss the install thoroughly.  
Kwikwire 22 circuit harness- I bought this year's ago like many of my parts from IH Parts America. Jeff quizzed me on the necessity of it and recommended just going with the 8 circuit. I should have. There's no way I'm using all that wiring and creates unnecessary bulk and mess. Kwikwire support is next to nonexistent, tough to get ahold of them. Great kit, but research your oem wiring, identify your needs and future add one, plan accordingly.  
IH shop manual- buy them, use them. You can disassemble and reassemble a Scout with these two volumes. Well worth the $100. Then use it. I wish I had when doing the core plugs, rear main. Great for wiring too.  
Rear main seal replacement- I'm not certain I ever had to do this initially. I replaced the original motor because I had a stuck valve and debated whether to rebuild or replace do to the mileage. I went with buying a used motor, with 68k miles on it out of an old sparks, nv prison bus. Because of the source, I had to swap pump pickups, oil pans, flywheels, etc. When swapping in my at flywheel, I didn't use the IH shop manual to do so.I simply installed my old hub onto the new to me engine. I didn't use hylomar or other sealant on the threads. Didn't even google it. Didn't even do it when I saw an oil leak at the rear. Thinking it was the rear main seal needing replacement, I spent $40 and bought a new rear main seal. Installed it, pita. Still leaked, wtf? At that point I finally opened the shop manual, noted sealant was required on the 9 bolts as they see oil from the pan. Spring forward with core plug issues, removed engine, noticed speedi sleeve from po, installed new sleeve, seal, plugs per manual and usn bill's excellent thread. No more leaks, imagine that. Attached Images |  | 20161102_180458.jpg  
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Core plugs- this was a low mile engine, but had been sitting for a while. I had leaks at the rear of the block, needing the transmission to be removed to replace. I rounded up the appropriately sized plugs, bought an electric sears craftsman angled hammer, and thought I could pound them in. The po had installed a 3" body lift which gave me more romantic than a factory Scout. After removing old plugs, sanding the holes, blasting them with brake cleaner, I buttered up the new ones with indian cylinder head gasket sealer and banged then in. The hammer program sucked. I thought I got them in sufficiently seated. Went ahead and reinstalled transmission, fired it up after topping off with water. Leaked. Noticed front plug leaking on driver side. Can't win. Can't learn from my mistakes. Removed engine, removed all core plugs, flushed block as best I could, cleaned holes, blasted with brake cleaner, buttered up plugs with same indian sealer, banged them in. Touched up outside with right stuff rtv, no leaks since. This worked out because I was able to redo the rear main at this time.  
Intake manifold leaks- the purchased motor was equipped with a 2brl intake, I wanted one use my 4brl intake. I removed both, cleaned the 4brl unit, installed on new motor. I used fel pro intake gaskets with copper rtv and factory bolts. Thought I had abother stuck valve, but noticed water in the oil. So... While engine was out for core plug business,removed intake, had it blasted, flange connections machined flat in case of warpage, replaced welch plugs on bottom, installed with new fel pro gaskets, copper rtv gaskets and bolts, flanged serrated ss hardware. Reinstalled while motor was out.. No leaks  
headers- sorry the ones I'm using were dabbed by an enthusiastic out of louisiana. There were a small run of these about 5 years ago. Block hugger, tri y design, ceramic coated. I first installed these when purchased new and bought the Scout. Took me forever then to get them to seal. I used three different custom by me angled wrenches to access the bolts. The collectors were a 4 bolts flange connection to the exhaust. It was nye impossible to get these to seal then. What I have now- same headers, bought and cut in/ welded in flowmaster ball collectors for positive sealibg, had header flanges machined flat for sealing, installed with fel pro gadgets, copper rtv on gaskets and bolts, mr gasket ss header bolts. No leaks.  
Exhaust- I used flowmaster series 90 mufflers. Hard to fit. I also have a 2 1/2" dual exhaust that I built myself. Hindsight I would use a long tube muffler, have someone do it for me. Between the transmission removals and exhaust, exhaust gave the most grief as it was very time consuming. But... No leaks I did the exhaust for $300 including mufflers, excluding header work and purchase. I straight up saved $700 from having someone doing it for me. Local shops quoted me $1000 using my our chased mufflers for a alumagalv dual exhaust. I couldn't justify it. I will say it took me probably 80 hours to complete though as it was my first time, no bender, everything welded, and it's a Scout.   
Light racing jounce shocks- simply unnecessary for me. I May remove one day and install a good urethane unit. Look good though. I had these left over from another project, decided to use them as I didn't want to waste the $1200 I spent on them plus install time. Incredible fab work was required to install. You May not have the same issue if you're running a wider axle, smaller tire, etc.  
Sway bars- jury is still out. Seemed like a good idea at the time. Had trouble with steering interference industry front so I removed that one and have not reinstalled the rear but fpundits it useful in the past. These are IH parts americas kit units purchased a long time ago. The front issue is due to my steering setup, needs more time to sort out to use. Would be fine on a more common Scout I'm sure. Something with less mods, more fab effort on my part.  
Efi- highly recommend it, I used an afi harness, junkyard sourced TBI setup, afi chip. This was 8 years ago. Bought a converted distributor of this forum. Had other engine issues on replacement, so I haven't reinstalled it yet. But I will.  
Hydroboost- another great mod, I thought I had a bad mc as I never could get the brakes bled out. Finally discovered a pin hole in a brake line (arced out while welding close to it I guess) and fixed it. I used a psc pump, astro van booster, wound up replacing mc before I found the leak, astro van proportioning valve. May upgrade to a truck size mc in the future. Stops great. I will say that belt tension is important. I fiddled with this a great deal. Went to a smaller belt to get more tightening range. Took all my parts to a hydraulic shop and plumbing diagram of what needed to go to what and had them make up hoses. Using a single return line.  
Study study- buy and use every manual you can find, research the things you want to do, don't reinvent the wheel because chances are it's already been done. There's no need. I'm not doing anything ground breaking here.   
Power heated seats- I spent $250 on a pair of 2005 pontiac gtp front seats that incorporated seat belts because I just had to have heated seats, power was just a bonus. These are for sale btw. The wiring is a nightmare, two level heat only, and a crappie load of fab worm to fit them in. Poor choice. I put my factory Scout buckets back in.   
Join a club, make friends with similar interests- this May seem like a no-brainer, but I very done 95% by myself. It's been tough. When you have like minded friends, they can help. Join a club, maybe they have a facility you can use to work on your junk. Again, an opportunity to meet folks with similar interests that can help and provide insight, experience, ideas, suggestions.  
  
I'm no expert, but feel free to ask questions. My junk is far from done. Much of the repairs, replacements, upgrades were learned and done the hard way and self performed by me, on my own. Forums like IH Parts America have been very helpful, thanks to all. Good luck and best wishes for your rig, I still have a long ways to go! I'll post up pictures of the various bits and pieces of what I'v done in time. Attached Images  
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I posted a thread here for a heater upgrade for my Scout. Check out the results and how to. Pdf included.  
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/i....134075/page-2 Attached Images |  | Scout II Heater Upgrade 12-17-2016 Reduced.pdf  
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**Re: My Traveler Ride** Nice work and great write up. Here in n.CA, my issue with the heater is that the water valve is either to hot or cold. Is there one on your setup? __________________  
1974 Scout II 345 T-19  
1971 Travelette 392 T-36  
1972 Loadstar 1700 dump truck 345 T-35   
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**Re: My Traveler Ride** Quote: |  Originally Posted by **fdchappie** nice work and great write up. Here in n.CA, my issue with the heater is that the water valve is either to hot or cold. Is there one on your setup?  
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Thanks for the compliments!   
  
I have a factory replacement valve in place. I have the same issue as you do. I generally stroke the defroster side to divert some of it for comfort. I think to accomplish what you would need is some sort of temperature control valve. When shifting through Ford wiring diagrams I noticed an item called a tempered heater switch. I think this May have been used to control the ammount of heat created. Not sure how to incorporate into what I have now or a stock Scout heater system though.. Would be worthwhile!  
  
Nice read. Your ride looks great. Did you put new mods in it?  
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do you have the tilt steering wheel and cruise control?  
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nice looking ride! any updates?  
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Quote: |  **TruckeeZ** Nice read. Your ride looks great. Did you put new mods in it?  
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Sorry, haven't come back to this thread on a long time!  
  
Quote: |  Originally Posted by **Richard** do you have the tilt steering wheel and cruise control?  
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No sir, regular column with after market cruise. I forget the name of the manufacturer. It works great though. CC kit gives you a replacement turn signal lever commonto the 80s GM vehicles.  
  
Quote: |  Originally Posted by **BigRed15** nice looking ride! any updates?  
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Thanks!  
  
She's my daily driver now. Sorting out the kinks every day. Yet to finish-  
Install AC parts.  
Redo my home fab fan shroud, clearances were too tight and tubbed on cooling fan.  
Re-fab the flywheel cover. Never really fit right. I have a 345/ 4L60 combo so I married the two together to create one. Kind of ghetto. Need to rework it.  
Remove TSM parking brake kit and install a more common parking brake setup.  
  
Sweet! You've got yourself a nice ride to build on! Would love to see updates in the near future. What kind of mileage are you getting out of that combo?  
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Quote: |  Originally Posted by **BigRed15** Sweet! You've got yourself a nice ride to build on! Would love to see updates in the near future. What kind of mileage are you getting out of that combo?  
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Thanks!  
  
Measured a hair over 14mpg on a roundtrip from Boston to New Hampshire the other day.  
  
**Tablet Install** A few updates-  
Installed a Samsung TAB A 7" android WiFi only tablet in the outfit. Uses an Arkon fleet locking mount on a RAM Mount AMPS mount/ ball. My dash panel is an IH ONLY NORTH unit. I bought and installed years ago with the radio cutout. If there's a next time, I'll buy it without! welding aluminum is a PITA. Data comes from my cell as a hotspot if needed. I use Google Maps offline areas downloaded if needed. Downloaded music with a micro SD for storage. Not shown, but behind dash panel, are a 4 port USB hub with FM transmitter, 64GB USB thumb drive, DAC converter. Next step for this is a small amp in the dash to power speakers. Take the signal from the tablet to the DAC, to the amp, out to the speakers. Gives me a radio, favorite music, navigation if needed, and diagnostic for when I get the FI back in at some point. Fills the hole in the dash too! Wired in on a 10AMP fuse that was unused on my Kwikwire harness. Attached Images |  | 20180311_143401.jpg  
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