[QUOTE=morpwr;1290490]Scoops are tough because they can make the ffb do strange things and its difficult to tell whats right and wrong sometimes. The effects get changed or reproduced at our wheel differently just by changing them a little bit. It helped me trying cars on cold tires to see how they felt. If you have a really hard time on cold tires they are probably off some. You should clearly be able to feel the grip it just wont be as good until the tires heat up. The clio and focus are good for testing because the rears don't heat up being fwd. These should be very drivable with the default setups except for dropping the air pressure some.[/QUOTE   
  
I noticed in the settings I had linkage stiffness and linkage damping set to 1.0 each. I turned these all off and did some laps, I am unsure what they may have been affecting or not? With these left off I left SR at 0.41 and put SK to 0.82 then 0.83. I'm definitely finding that rear grip loss somewhat I believe. As the back end comes round and I counter steer the wheel stiffens up, am I along the right lines here?  
  
Pretty sure the scale is set to zero so they don't do anything. I think I settled at 83 for sk. It was a compromise between grip and road feel but for me gave the best most comfortable feel. You might want to try raising the sr some. If I remember correctly me and spacepadrille are a little higher than you are. Sr too low with our wheels does odd things. Yes the road /bump feel will get a little weaker but the grip feel especially on cold tires gets better as you raise it and becomes more progressive.

  
Pretty sure the scale is set to zero so they don't do anything. I think I settled at 83 for sk. It was a compromise between grip and road feel but for me gave the best most comfortable feel. You might want to try raising the sr some. If I remember correctly me and spacepadrille are a little higher than you are. Sr too low with our wheels does odd things. Yes the road /bump feel will get a little weaker but the grip feel especially on cold tires gets better as you raise it and becomes more progressive.  
  
Yes, the linkage scale was at 0 anyway. My SR is slowly creeping up 1 click after doing a few laps. Just put it to 0.45. To be honest, if I end up back at your exact settings I wouldn't consider it wasted time as I've got a bit more knowledge and understanding what scoops do at least. Just regarding formula c and little grip feel at rear, it was at least partly due to tyre pressures being low, they were running well over 200 so gained some feel back by upping the pressures there.

[QUOTE=morpwr;1290490]Scoops are tough because they can make the ffb do strange things and its difficult to tell whats right and wrong sometimes. The effects get changed or reproduced at our wheel differently just by changing them a little bit. It helped me trying cars on cold tires to see how they felt. If you have a really hard time on cold tires they are probably off some. You should clearly be able to feel the grip it just wont be as good until the tires heat up. The clio and focus are good for testing because the rears don't heat up being fwd. These should be very drivable with the default setups except for dropping the air pressure some.[/QUOTE   
  
I noticed in the settings I had linkage stiffness and linkage damping set to 1.0 each. I turned these all off and did some laps, I am unsure what they may have been affecting or not? With these left off I left SR at 0.41 and put SK to 0.82 then 0.83. I'm definitely finding that rear grip loss somewhat I believe. As the back end comes round and I counter steer the wheel stiffens up, am I along the right lines here?  
  
Your on the Right Path...Remember to change things in Small Steps and Trust what you Feel!!! If it Feels Good then it is Good...what feels Right for Me may Feel Wrong for you... its all about finding what feels best to you then make small Changes to improve it.

  
Yes, the linkage scale was at 0 anyway. My SR is slowly creeping up 1 click after doing a few laps. Just put it to 0.45. To be honest, if I end up back at your exact settings I wouldn't consider it wasted time as I've got a bit more knowledge and understanding what scoops do at least. Just regarding formula c and little grip feel at rear, it was at least partly due to tyre pressures being low, they were running well over 200 so gained some feel back by upping the pressures there.  
  
Yes I totally agree. It was a long road but worth it in the end. It was good seeing what even one click changes once youre in the ballpark.

That's what I felt with wps. Again I think part of the reason you cant go as low is the our wheels. I'm guessing the v2 is a lot faster. With mine I can just not use it and all the weaker forces get noticeably better without rattling.  
  
That's exactly what I was thinking. The stronger motor and quicker response would make the forces changes feel harder, especially when reversing direction.

I have a problem for some reason my wheel seems to be really sensitive like its in 900 or 540 mode i made sure i got 5 blinks so i know its in 1080 mode. FFB bug or firmware bug on wheel ??? Doing this since I played dirt rally.  
  
Its like the wheel is pulling on one side or the other pwm adjusting does nothing makes it worse

I have a problem for some reason my wheel seems to be really sensitive like its in 900 or 540 mode i made sure i got 5 blinks so i know its in 1080 mode. FFB bug or firmware bug on wheel ??? Doing this since I played dirt rally.  
  
Its like the wheel is pulling on one side or the other pwm adjusting does nothing makes it worse  
  
Recalibrating in the PCars control menu is probably something you have done but the most immediate thing I can think of. I still calibrate my wheel every time I go on pcars, not sure what everybody else does. I also have mine set to 900 degrees. Only bug I encounter occasionally is the grinding on turning. Hope you get it sorted!

I have a problem for some reason my wheel seems to be really sensitive like its in 900 or 540 mode i made sure i got 5 blinks so i know its in 1080 mode. FFB bug or firmware bug on wheel ??? Doing this since I played dirt rally.  
  
Its like the wheel is pulling on one side or the other pwm adjusting does nothing makes it worse  
  
I would recalibrate the wheel. My wheel did the same after couple of times playing Dirt Rally

I would recalibrate the wheel. My wheel did the same after couple of times playing Dirt Rally  
I have it did nothing

I have a problem for some reason my wheel seems to be really sensitive like its in 900 or 540 mode i made sure i got 5 blinks so i know its in 1080 mode. FFB bug or firmware bug on wheel ??? Doing this since I played dirt rally.  
  
Its like the wheel is pulling on one side or the other pwm adjusting does nothing makes it worse  
  
It just started doing that, all of a sudden? Did you change anything before it happened?

I have it did nothing  
  
What about resetting all the controls in pcars menu? I'm sure I've seen that mentioned on here before. Obviously just note down current values for everything. Reset to defaults then re input your values.

[QUOTE=Haiden;1290900]It just started doing that, all of a sudden? Did you change anything before it happened?[/QUOT  
  
I was playing with pwm stuff something is not right re calibrated the wheel, there is like a triangle shape in the FFB line.  
If I'm going in a straight line the triangle shape goes to the bottom then top like the FFB is back words. Wheel feels OK in dirt and I have put the settings back in didn't fix it

It just started doing that, all of a sudden? Did you change anything before it happened?[/QUOT  
  
I was playing with pwm stuff something is not right re calibrated the wheel, there is like a triangle shape in the FFB line.  
If I'm going in a straight line the triangle shape goes to the bottom then top like the FFB is back words. Wheel feels OK in dirt and I have put the settings back in didn't fix it  
  
What kind of wheel? Can you re-flash the firmware, to reset the wheel completely? If you do that, and you're still having issues, then at least you know it's probably the game installation.

I'm going to play crew and dirt to see that, the more I think it's the game I even made sure the settings was not stuck in between numbers. This all happened while I was playing it I was driving everything was good went out to adjust pwm went back it was all eff up

Can you put both PWMs back to 0.00? Or confirm that they are at zero now?

Also, just recently I bought Assetto Corsa and a little tweak came to my attention on the forum. They have made a .lut file that manipulates the force curve, almost like a scoops tool. The difference is that it is a text file and it can manipulate the curve at whatever point you wish, with whatever value you want. If it indeed works as straight-forward as I was led to believe in the thread (which I cannot find now for some reason, my search skills are poor) it is superior to scoops, and was also most likely inspired by the scoop function. Could PCars support such functionality? Not that I m complaining with Scoops, it's great, but that .lut file is as accurate as it can get.

I'm going to play crew and dirt to see that, the more I think it's the game I even made sure the settings was not stuck in between numbers. This all happened while I was playing it I was driving everything was good went out to adjust pwm went back it was all eff up  
  
Have you pushed the Triangle Button in Controler menu to Reset All Global settings??? This is what i do when things go off for No reason and it gets things back to Straight.  
  
I find when i play in the Global settings exiting thise settings and pushing other buttons to load a track or Car seems to Corrupt the Global settings... Always wait until the Save data icon goes away before pushing more buttons when exiting Global settings... I find doing it this way i have Very Few if any problems.

I'm going to play crew and dirt to see that, the more I think it's the game I even made sure the settings was not stuck in between numbers. This all happened while I was playing it I was driving everything was good went out to adjust pwm went back it was all eff up  
  
If the wheel works fine in other games but not p cars and the settings are correct id try resetting the globals. If that doesn't work youll probably have to delete the game and reload it.

Have you pushed the Triangle Button in Controler menu to Reset All Global settings??? This is what i do when things go off for No reason and it gets things back to Straight.  
  
I find when i play in the Global settings exiting thise settings and pushing other buttons to load a track or Car seems to Corrupt the Global settings... Always wait until the Save data icon goes away before pushing more buttons when exiting Global settings... I find doing it this way i have Very Few if any problems.  
  
Waiting for the save icon definitely seems to help. It does actually tell you to do that but most of us are in a hurry. lol

[QUOTE=konnos;1291047]Can you put both PWMs back to 0.00? Or confirm that they are at zero now?[/QU  
  
That's where I had it at before this happened the wheel was really heavy.... so went back and changed it that's when I started having problems. I played dirt felt OK crew felt OK I might just delete the game don't want too, it's like pcars is keeping my wheel in 900 degree and I checked the control panel on PC and it's at 1080.

Attention!!!  
  
For anyone who is on Xbox 1 using TX and is still chasing/looking for a good set-up - Please try my latest Global Settings. They feel better than ever, tried many cars, many variations, the feel is all there.   
  
I'm also using Jack Spade's (Classic) in Car Settings.   
  
If anyone tries, let me know what you think.  
  
Link -> http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/xbox-1/168

[QUOTE=gotdirt410sprintcar That's where I had it at before this happened the wheel was really heavy.... so went back and changed it that's when I started having problems. I played dirt felt OK crew felt OK I might just delete the game don't want too, it's like pcars is keeping my wheel in 900 degree and I checked the control panel on PC and it's at 1080.[/QUOTE]  
  
Have you reset the Global Settings by pushing the Green Triangle Button???

Yep didn't fix it

Yep didn't fix it  
  
Sounds like you Need a Total Reset...  
there is 1 other option Try doing the Data Base rebuild... Turn Off the PS4, Hold the Power Button until the second Beep then follow the prompts to do a Data Rebuild.

Yeah I'm going to do that tonight, I don't think its the firmware on the wheel or it would not work in any other game's and it happened when I was playing the game anyway.

Yeah I'm going to do that tonight, I don't think its the firmware on the wheel or it would not work in any other game's and it happened when I was playing the game anyway.  
  
Id agree if the firmware was screwed up youd be having issues on other games too.

One more month. :) Hopefully.   
  
Another good review.   
  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoKBPY1KU6c

One more month. :) Hopefully.   
  
Another good review.   
  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoKBPY1KU6c  
  
I hope so. Id love to have another good racing game.:D

Check this mixed reality video out. I love the beginning, where he's sitting in the pit lane getting ready...LOL  
  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlFKjWGxZqk

Yeah I'm going to do that tonight, I don't think its the firmware on the wheel or it would not work in any other game's and it happened when I was playing the game anyway.  
  
gotdirt410sprintcar what type of wheel are you utilizing on PS4 ? :confused:   
  
If it's a Thrustmaster T300 RS it defaults to 900 degrees of rotation when it boots up and calibrates its self on PS4 even though it is capable of 1080 degrees of rotation.  
Some games on PS4 can give it instructions to change degrees of rotation like F1 2015 will give it instruction to change to 360 degrees of rotation.  
If I want to play Project Cars right after playing F1 2015 on PS4 I always just restart the PS4 or unplug wheel and plug back in so it will calibrate its self to 900 degrees of rotation for Project Cars.  
Maybe Dirt Rally gives it instruction to set 1080 degrees of rotation on PS4.  
Also, it does not remember settings from Thrustmaster Control Panel on PC when you use it with PS4.  
I've got Dirt Rally for PS4 but, have only played it for about 30 minutes !  
Have to learn how to set it up eventually to play it !:confused:  
I just make sure to reboot PS4 before starting up another racing game after another.  
If not it can kinda confuse the wheel and make it act wonky ! :numbness:  
Hope I was of some help to you.  
Love you guys here ! :cool:

I have a t500 but it probably does the same thing have to check it out

Indeed, some games will change the settings in the wheel's drivers (which you can't see in the consoles) and they do not reset them on exit.

I can confirm Dirt sets the DOR to 1080 when launching game. You will have to put manually the wheel to 900° if you go from dirt to pcars without restarting the console

WOW its been Very Quiet in Here... Feels Very Strange... Im used to waking up to a flood of New post, Break throughs or Debates...We have been posting sharing Ideas over a year Now and it feels Odd that its sooo Quiet... Posting and Reading every 1's comments have become part of My Daily routine.

One more month. :) Hopefully.   
  
Another good review.   
  
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UoKBPY1KU6c  
  
As it is Now its Going to be Hard to beat Pcars FFB feel wise!!! I have and Play Assetto Corsa on Pc... The FFB feels Good but it also Feels Flat compared to Pcars on some tracks... I've compared both Gt3 BMW's on Spa and Nubergring Gp and Pcars has more Road Feel especially on Smooth tracks... The one thing about Assetto Corsa is the Progressive Steering... The Closer you get to Full turning Lock while going fast the Harder the wheel gets to turn... I like that Feel... Other than that they are pretty equal.  
  
I have a Hard time trusting ISR game reviews its been a Few Games that are just Garbage that they gave good Ratings on PS4!!! Ex: Sabastian Loeb Rally... Pure Garbage and they said it was Good on PS4!!! ISR said it was better on PS4 than on PC!!! I bought it the Game is Trash!!! Hot Smelly Maggot infested Stankin Trash even!!!

As it is Now its Going to be Hard to beat Pcars FFB feel wise!!! I have and Play Assetto Corsa on Pc... The FFB feels Good but it also Feels Flat compared to Pcars on some tracks... I've compared both Gt3 BMW's on Spa and Nubergring Gp and Pcars has more Road Feel especially on Smooth tracks... The one thing about Assetto Corsa is the Progressive Steering... The Closer you get to Full turning Lock while going fast the Harder the wheel gets to turn... I like that Feel... Other than that they are pretty equal.  
  
I have a Hard time trusting ISR game reviews its been a Few Games that are just Garbage that they gave good Ratings on PS4!!! Ex: Sabastian Loeb Rally... Pure Garbage and they said it was Good on PS4!!! ISR said it was better on PS4 than on PC!!! I bought it the Game is Trash!!! Hot Smelly Maggot infested Stankin Trash even!!!  
  
You don't get that in pCARS?

You don't get that in pCARS?  
I found some while being stuck in the Silverstone Classic pits , lol .

I have a t500 but it probably does the same thing have to check it out  
  
OK. I've heard the T500 boots up to a default of 1080 degrees of rotation on PS4 from what I've read within Thrustmaster support literature if I can remember ? Is that true ? :confused:  
  
Anyways, I always restart PS4 and/or unplug/plug wheel after playing a game and before starting another game.  
Sometimes it can be the same game. :D  
Also, after game updates I start up PS4 in safe mode and update system and rebuild database.

You don't get that in pCARS?  
  
Nope... Pcars Has some progressive resistance but mostly when turning wheel from center position... Then it Levels out and the and becomes even and Smooth throughout the rest of the turning range ... Not including Bumps, Weight tranfer etc.... I played with the settings to try and get it but cant find it...Body Scale adds that feeling but No one can seem to get body scale working right... I know i cant  
  
Assetto Corsa when at soeed in corners the Closer you get to Max DOR that is set the Harder it is to turn the wheel... Its a Give and Take thing... Some times it feels more informative other times it feels as if it could be taking away from Subtle Road Feel while cornering... Its very Track and Car dependent.... Overal i do like the Progressive feeling in the wheel though.

^ Try the Sauber C9 at Dubai Int and tell me if you feel it with that car.

Nope... Pcars Has some progressive resistance but mostly when turning wheel from center position... Then it Levels out and the and becomes even and Smooth throughout the rest of the turning range ... Not including Bumps, Weight tranfer etc.... I played with the settings to try and get it but cant find it...Body Scale adds that feeling but No one can seem to get body scale working right... I know i cant  
  
Assetto Corsa when at soeed in corners the Closer you get to Max DOR that is set the Harder it is to turn the wheel... Its a Give and Take thing... Some times it feels more informative other times it feels as if it could be taking away from Subtle Road Feel while cornering... Its very Track and Car dependent.... Overal i do like the Progressive feeling in the wheel though.  
  
I think PCars has it. It's just not as pronounced as it is in other games. That could be because it's more of a canned effect in other games, which makes it more controllable and less car dependent. But I can definitely feel a difference in wheel weight when cornering in PCars. Not as pronounced as it feels to me in F1 2015, but I feel the grip-related weight in the wheel changing in relation to my speed and steering angle as I move through the corner.

WOW its been Very Quiet in Here... Feels Very Strange... Im used to waking up to a flood of New post, Break throughs or Debates...We have been posting sharing Ideas over a year Now and it feels Odd that its sooo Quiet... Posting and Reading every 1's comments have become part of My Daily routine.  
  
Maybe we are at a point where everybody have good FFB and simply enjoy the game ? ;-) I was thinking the same as you this morning... I think we need an patch 11 who put the mess a little bit :-)

@grimey : I had some blasts with Sebastien Loeb Rally Evo since their last patch. Especially on tarmac, where DiRT fails a little bit. Maybe you can give it a second chance ? FFB settings : FFB : 50 to 60 - Vibrations 60 to 65, depending of cars and tracks.

Maybe we are at a point where everybody have good FFB and simply enjoy the game ? ;-) I was thinking the same as you this morning... I think we need an patch 11 who put the mess a little bit :-)  
  
Exactly! I've been doing Career lately, so enjoyable once I have FFB setup right. No more need to tweek or change anything anymore. I'm done :)

I think PCars has it. It's just not as pronounced as it is in other games. That could be because it's more of a canned effect in other games, which makes it more controllable and less car dependent. But I can definitely feel a difference in wheel weight when cornering in PCars. Not as pronounced as it feels to me in F1 2015, but I feel the grip-related weight in the wheel changing in relation to my speed and steering angle as I move through the corner.  
  
^ Try the Sauber C9 at Dubai Int and tell me if you feel it with that car.  
  
That Sauber C9 is a Beast!!! I will post a Video of a lap with that car at the Dubai Auto Drome.  
  
Dont get Me Wrong PCars FFB Feels Great!!!  
  
More or Stronger Progressive steering Feel would Have Been Icing on Top of Icing On Top of Icing!!!  
  
You Know How it Goes... its Human Nature... We Always want More... LOL  
  
I think the Bidy scale would add that More Progressive Steering Feel but... No one can seem to get or figure out how to make it work Good... Every time i play with it.. it just Makes the Wheel Lock to what ever side activates it....Shrugggs

Ok.. Now that every 1 seems to have the FFB right Lets see the FFB Graph Vids... Post em up for Review.

@grimey : I had some blasts with Sebastien Loeb Rally Evo since their last patch. Especially on tarmac, where DiRT fails a little bit. Maybe you can give it a second chance ? FFB settings : FFB : 50 to 60 - Vibrations 60 to 65, depending of cars and tracks.  
  
When was tha Last update??? I will Try it again... I deleted it from the PS4 but i still have the Game.

^ Try the Sauber C9 at Dubai Int and tell me if you feel it with that car.  
  
Yes i can Feel it Much Stronger with the Sauber C9!!! Nice!!!!

When was tha Last update??? I will Try it again... I deleted it from the PS4 but i still have the Game.  
  
I don't remember the exact date of the update, maybe 1 ou 2 months ago. You have to try some recent cars. The old ones are a little bit weak FFB regarding. Try Alsace for Tarmac, and Mexico for the gravels... Of course it is not PCARS, but after a while I'm sure you can enjoy it.

Maybe we are at a point where everybody have good FFB and simply enjoy the game ? ;-) I was thinking the same as you this morning... I think we need an patch 11 who put the mess a little bit :-)  
  
I haven't thought about touching anything in weeks.

I think PCars has it. It's just not as pronounced as it is in other games. That could be because it's more of a canned effect in other games, which makes it more controllable and less car dependent. But I can definitely feel a difference in wheel weight when cornering in PCars. Not as pronounced as it feels to me in F1 2015, but I feel the grip-related weight in the wheel changing in relation to my speed and steering angle as I move through the corner.  
  
I think that's exactly it. Its been an exaggerated effect in many games for a long time for that reason.

That Sauber C9 is a Beast!!! I will post a Video of a lap with that car at the Dubai Auto Drome.  
  
Dont get Me Wrong PCars FFB Feels Great!!!  
  
More or Stronger Progressive steering Feel would Have Been Icing on Top of Icing On Top of Icing!!!  
  
You Know How it Goes... its Human Nature... We Always want More... LOL  
  
I think the Bidy scale would add that More Progressive Steering Feel but... No one can seem to get or figure out how to make it work Good... Every time i play with it.. it just Makes the Wheel Lock to what ever side activates it....Shrugggs  
  
Hee Hee ! :cool:  
  
Yeah Boyieeeee ! :cool:  
  
Ya talkin about one of my favorite cars in the game ! :cool:  
  
Think I might have an ol' vid in career mode where an ol' boy made that baby do some ballet dancin' at Brno ! :cool:  
  
If I find it I will definitely share it.  
  
LOL ! :)

I think PCars has it. It's just not as pronounced as it is in other games. That could be because it's more of a canned effect in other games, which makes it more controllable and less car dependent. But I can definitely feel a difference in wheel weight when cornering in PCars. Not as pronounced as it feels to me in F1 2015, but I feel the grip-related weight in the wheel changing in relation to my speed and steering angle as I move through the corner.  
  
Still trying to find the sweet spot for adjusting the force feedback in F1 2015 ! :rolleyes:  
  
I just can't get a feel for the grip threshold with no feel what so ever for what the rear of the vehicle is doing ! :rolleyes:  
  
About to practice some F1 2015 now before I go to bed.  
  
If you have some tips on getting more informative force feedback in F1 2015 please let me know ! :confused:  
  
Been tweakin around with those 3 sliders many hours ! :confused:  
  
Cockpit view no assist ! Would be nice if you could feel rear wheel spin and loss of grip ! :confused:

f1 2015 FFB is pants, don't bother. It's playable but don't expect any kind of useful FFB like in PCars. If you want to play a good F1 game play the 2013 one, with some mods it's the best recent F1 game.

f1 2015 FFB is pants, don't bother. It's playable but don't expect any kind of useful FFB like in PCars. If you want to play a good F1 game play the 2013 one, with some mods it's the best recent F1 game.  
  
I've got it on PS3 also, 2011, 2012 and 2014. Although I admit I haven't played it that much on PS3.  
Would you say the force feedback response and fidelity is better in F1 2013 ? :confused:  
PS3 and PS4 only, I have for game play. :confused:

Hee Hee ! :cool:  
  
Yeah Boyieeeee ! :cool:  
  
Ya talkin about one of my favorite cars in the game ! :cool:  
  
Think I might have an ol' vid in career mode where an ol' boy made that baby do some ballet dancin' at Brno ! :cool:  
  
If I find it I will definitely share it.  
  
LOL ! :)  
  
That Sauber C9 is a Beast to Handle on Cold Tires with No Assist!!! once the Tires Heat up you can Really Push it but you gotta Remember to Brake way early!!!  
  
and Its Good to Drive with the Shifter instead of The Paddles!!!  
  
Ran it on Dubai Auto Drome....I didnt have time to post the Vid but i had a Nice Run in it 1:29.3xx...Im Gonna Try it on Nubergring... Dont know what kinda time it will run but its gonna be a Fun Drive!!!

f1 2015 FFB is pants, don't bother. It's playable but don't expect any kind of useful FFB like in PCars. If you want to play a good F1 game play the 2013 one, with some mods it's the best recent F1 game.  
  
I agree 2013 was the Best 1... I have it for XB360...2014 was so so.

That Sauber C9 is a Beast to Handle on Cold Tires with No Assist!!! once the Tires Heat up you can Really Push it but you gotta Remember to Brake way early!!!  
  
and Its Good to Drive with the Shifter instead of The Paddles!!!  
  
Ran it on Dubai Auto Drome....I didnt have time to post the Vid but i had a Nice Run in it 1:29.3xx...Im Gonna Try it on Nubergring... Dont know what kinda time it will run but its gonna be a Fun Drive!!!  
  
I'm not that far along in Project Cars with no assist.  
  
It was the car that taught me that I had to get into tuning at Le Mans in Project Cars cause I just got left by 2 other Sauber C9 ! Had the throttle pedal all the way down and was wondering what was wrong on the long straight ! Silly me thought it was something wrong with my pedals ! LOL ! :rolleyes:  
  
Force feedback was sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool: So, it was all good ! :cool:  
  
Ya gonna have a lot of fun with that Sauber C9 ! :cool: Don't ya just love the sound of that baby ! :cool:

Would you guys say the force feedback was better in F1 2013 ? :confused:  
  
With Codemasters making F1 all this time with a official license I think it's bullshit that by now that all tracks in their games should be laser scanned and offering some of the highest quality fidelity force feedback of any racing games at this time.  
  
The highest technological sport in the world. Probable access to racing teams that have multi-million dollar simulators for advice and tips. MADD money around the F1 motor sport !   
  
Sherlock Holmes and Confucious say somebody around Codemasters is taking big money and full of shit for not giving customer robust high fidelity informative force feedback for steering wheel !  
  
Project Cars force feedback is sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool:

Maybe we are at a point where everybody have good FFB and simply enjoy the game ? ;-) I was thinking the same as you this morning... I think we need an patch 11 who put the mess a little bit :-)  
  
Exactly! I've been doing Career lately, so enjoyable once I have FFB setup right. No more need to tweek or change anything anymore. I'm done :)  
  
I haven't thought about touching anything in weeks.  
  
^^This!! I've been trying all kinds of car and track combos and creating cool Race Weekend setups (time and weather transitions, number of laps, tire wear, etc.).   
  
Also, since getting the new Porsche rim, I've been loving the GT and road classes. They were fun before, but they didn't feel nearly as good with the heavier universal hub rim. I'm honestly not sure what to do with that one now. :( I've got a shifter coming today, which is going to add a whole new dimension to driving certain cars. :triumphant:

Still trying to find the sweet spot for adjusting the force feedback in F1 2015 ! :rolleyes:  
  
I just can't get a feel for the grip threshold with no feel what so ever for what the rear of the vehicle is doing ! :rolleyes:  
  
About to practice some F1 2015 now before I go to bed.  
  
If you have some tips on getting more informative force feedback in F1 2015 please let me know ! :confused:  
  
Been tweakin around with those 3 sliders many hours ! :confused:  
  
Cockpit view no assist ! Would be nice if you could feel rear wheel spin and loss of grip ! :confused:  
  
f1 2015 FFB is pants, don't bother. It's playable but don't expect any kind of useful FFB like in PCars. If you want to play a good F1 game play the 2013 one, with some mods it's the best recent F1 game.  
  
F1 2015 is weird. Compared to Pcars, F1's feedback leaves a lot to be desired, but it's definitely better than 2014. They had started to really lose their way with that one. But if you're a fan of F1 racing, then I think it's always a nice one to have.   
  
The issue with Codemasters is, they are highly dependent on a less sim-enthused audience. I'd venture to guess they even have more non-driving age people playing than a lot of other titles. IMO, this is the reason they keep it simple and don't go too far into more complex physics. A large portion of their audience just wants to play F1 with the pros, and are happy doing it with a controller. They'll buy a new game every year to do that, even if there's been little improvement. Basically, Codemasters is working the EA Sports business model. :)  
  
The FA in PCars has a few issues, but it's not a bad F1 style experience, IMO. I've had some really good races against the AI. Online is so-so, though. It's hard to find a decent public session and, if damage is on, you almost absolutely have to qualify ahead of the people who can't get off the line without spinning out. Otherwise, whether you make it through unscathed or not, the leaders will be too far ahead to ever catch.

Well i must have the FFB BUG in pcars fired it up today after i rebuild the database still junk. I am going to try one more thing i calibrated the wheel to 900 in dirt rally i will re calibrate the wheel there to 1080 to see if that fixes it who knows. Can someone explain what the bug does? My wheel feels like the motors are working against one another and i calibrated the wheel before i did any laps this morning.  
  
Well that did nothing and the wheel is slightly not center question if the firmware was messed up would the wheel even work at all trying to make sure about everything before i delete pcars

Well i must have the FFB BUG in pcars fired it up today after i rebuild the database still junk. I am going to try one more thing i calibrated the wheel to 900 in dirt rally i will re calibrate the wheel there to 1080 to see if that fixes it who knows. Can someone explain what the bug does? My wheel feels like the motors are working against one another and i calibrated the wheel before i did any laps this morning.  
  
Well that did nothing and the wheel is slightly not center question if the firmware was messed up would the wheel even work at all trying to make sure about everything before i delete pcars  
  
It might. But I remember seeing somewhere about the wheels losing the center. If I remember right you can re center the wheel in the control panel.

Well i must have the FFB BUG in pcars fired it up today after i rebuild the database still junk. I am going to try one more thing i calibrated the wheel to 900 in dirt rally i will re calibrate the wheel there to 1080 to see if that fixes it who knows. Can someone explain what the bug does? My wheel feels like the motors are working against one another and i calibrated the wheel before i did any laps this morning.  
  
Well that did nothing and the wheel is slightly not center question if the firmware was messed up would the wheel even work at all trying to make sure about everything before i delete pcars  
  
Seems Like a Total Delete is Needed... Seems the Game Data May have Gotten Corrupted some How.  
  
Remember you Have to Delete your Hard Drive and Cloud save Game Data.  
  
Try Deleting Just the Hard Drive Data first and Test... only the Main Physics Data should be stored on the HD...and your Game progress, Car set ups Back up save is in the Cloud.... so you may not have to start completely over.

Yeah i will do that more i play with it and research about it its the bug.... The FFB lins stays flat then i get a jolt then the line has a triangle shape then goes flat for like three inches then the triangle shape again like its clipping hope it fixes it. Thanks everyone

It might. But I remember seeing somewhere about the wheels losing the center. If I remember right you can re center the wheel in the control panel.  
Isn't it just spin the wheel full left then full right then back to center then press START+SELECT+MODE buttons at the same time after the wheel auto calibrates ?

Well i must have the FFB BUG in pcars fired it up today after i rebuild the database still junk. I am going to try one more thing i calibrated the wheel to 900 in dirt rally i will re calibrate the wheel there to 1080 to see if that fixes it who knows. Can someone explain what the bug does? My wheel feels like the motors are working against one another and i calibrated the wheel before i did any laps this morning.  
  
Well that did nothing and the wheel is slightly not center question if the firmware was messed up would the wheel even work at all trying to make sure about everything before i delete pcars  
  
Honestly, just try the reinstall. Sucks, but it'll probably save you time.

Isn't it just spin the wheel full left then full right then back to center then press START+SELECT+MODE buttons at the same time after the wheel auto calibrates ?  
  
I honestly don't remember but I'm pretty sure you can do it in the control panel also.

Yeah i will do that more i play with it and research about it its the bug.... The FFB lins stays flat then i get a jolt then the line has a triangle shape then goes flat for like three inches then the triangle shape again like its clipping hope it fixes it. Thanks everyone  
  
Backup your progress to USB first ! ! ! ! !  
Delete game save data, boot up Project Cars see if it is OK after calibrating your wheel with fresh default game save data.  
If so, reinstall your progress data. If not delete whole game and on disk game save data.  
Reinstall Project Cars calibrate wheel.  
If all is OK reinstall your progress from USB.  
To re-center check Thrustmaster T500 help file: http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T500RS/T500RS_AutoCalibration_Centering_Process.pdf  
  
They recommend not doing it in control panel or game but, on desktop on PC or in menu on PS4 not in game.  
Backup to USB regularly as you play your career and tweak your settings as to be prepared for wonky moments like you're going through which may happen every now and then.  
Make sure to update PS4 system again and rebuild PS4 database.  
Sometimes just updating PS4 system and rebuilding PS4 database cures problems with games.  
Remember to always restart PS4 and/or unplug/plug your wheel before playing different racing games !  
As they may send different instructions to your wheel !  
You just can't start up one game after another without risk of wonky issues !

F1 2015 is weird. Compared to Pcars, F1's feedback leaves a lot to be desired, but it's definitely better than 2014. They had started to really lose their way with that one. But if you're a fan of F1 racing, then I think it's always a nice one to have.   
  
The issue with Codemasters is, they are highly dependent on a less sim-enthused audience. I'd venture to guess they even have more non-driving age people playing than a lot of other titles. IMO, this is the reason they keep it simple and don't go too far into more complex physics. A large portion of their audience just wants to play F1 with the pros, and are happy doing it with a controller. They'll buy a new game every year to do that, even if there's been little improvement. Basically, Codemasters is working the EA Sports business model. :)  
  
The FA in PCars has a few issues, but it's not a bad F1 style experience, IMO. I've had some really good races against the AI. Online is so-so, though. It's hard to find a decent public session and, if damage is on, you almost absolutely have to qualify ahead of the people who can't get off the line without spinning out. Otherwise, whether you make it through unscathed or not, the leaders will be too far ahead to ever catch.  
  
I was thinking of purchasing it myself. Tried it some time ago but before the more advanced ffb settings were patched in. Thought it was a pretty good game but don't know if it would just be a waste since new f1 game is out pretty soon. Don't suppose you can really have too many racing games though.

If you have some tips on getting more informative force feedback in F1 2015 please let me know ! :confused:  
  
Been tweakin around with those 3 sliders many hours ! :confused:  
  
Cockpit view no assist ! Would be nice if you could feel rear wheel spin and loss of grip ! :confused:  
  
I haven't played in a while, but I think I had the three scales set around 85-95. I don't remember which was which, but I'm pretty sure I decided 100 wasn't working on any of them. I can feel the backend, though. For me, the challenge is adjusting to the throttle and brakes. They're much more sensitive than in PCars. You have be extremely smooth on the throttle. But I can when the back end starts to slip, I do feel it in the FFB.

I was thinking of purchasing it myself. Tried it some time ago but before the more advanced ffb settings were patched in. Thought it was a pretty good game but don't know if it would just be a waste since new f1 game is out pretty soon. Don't suppose you can really have too many racing games though.  
  
I'd say wait for the new one. It's supposed to refine a few things feel wise, but mainly, they'll be bring back things like custom championships. If you're happy with PCars right now, then just wait for F1 2016.

I'd say wait for the new one. It's supposed to refine a few things feel wise, but mainly, they'll be bring back things like custom championships. If you're happy with PCars right now, then just wait for F1 2016.  
  
That's a good shout. I was searching amazon almost forcing myself to buy something so was trying to justify it. I'd best wait. To be honest pcars has so many car types I have barely scratched the surface with it. Just steadily doing career mode. I just fancy having multiple options for racing games. Assetto, f1 2016 and pcars should do me right.

Well here is the update I think the wheel is broken I'm going to test it on the PS3 gt6 to make sure but something still not right. If I hit a curb that is when I lose center then it wants to pull to the right. THRUSTMASTER JUNK

Well here is the update I think the wheel is broken I'm going to test it on the PS3 gt6 to make sure but something still not right. If I hit a curb that is when I lose center then it wants to pull to the right. THRUSTMASTER JUNK  
  
Does it only do it on p cars? If so its not the wheel.

I haven't played in a while, but I think I had the three scales set around 85-95. I don't remember which was which, but I'm pretty sure I decided 100 wasn't working on any of them. I can feel the backend, though. For me, the challenge is adjusting to the throttle and brakes. They're much more sensitive than in PCars. You have be extremely smooth on the throttle. But I can when the back end starts to slip, I do feel it in the FFB.  
  
Force Feedback Strenght: 75  
Environment: 100  
Wheel Weight: 10  
Can't feel that rear end at all !  
Thrustmaster T300 RS, F1 Wheel Ad - On, T3PA Pro Pedals  
I think those are my force feedback settings for F1 2015  
I'm at work now tapping this message in with my phone.

Well as rarely as it happens, I was actually pleased with my driving last night. Not so great quali put me 12th for sprint race at Oshersleben, and finished 2nd with good consistent laps. GT4 Euro championship round 4 of 5. Hoping to make the move to GT3 after this season (finally).

Does it only do it on p cars? If so its not the wheel.  
  
Test with gt6 same problem wants to go left to right so the only thing I have not done was re install firmware but you would think if that was messed up it would not work at all. Or just send it out break out the g27 and go back to gt6 lol or just buy the servo base and f1 rim

Test with gt6 same problem wants to go left to right so the only thing I have not done was re install firmware but you would think if that was messed up it would not work at all. Or just send it out break out the g27 and go back to gt6 lol or just buy the servo base and f1 rim  
  
Have you tried reinstalling firmware on PC ? : http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/T500RS/T500RS_Firmware_Update_Procedure_V43.pdf  
Then reinstall trying boot loader method afterwards ? : http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/accessories/Manuals/T500RS/T500RS_Bootloader_Method.pdf  
  
Download : Package 2016_TTRS_2 Firmware released 5-19-2016 from Thrustmaster Technical Support website.

Force Feedback Strenght: 75  
Environment: 100  
Wheel Weight: 10  
Can't feel that rear end at all !  
Thrustmaster T300 RS, F1 Wheel Ad - On, T3PA Pro Pedals  
I think those are my force feedback settings for F1 2015  
I'm at work now tapping this message in with my phone.  
  
I'll have to boot mine up this weekend to check the settings, but at first glance, I'd question the low wheel weight. Why so low? I'm pretty all three of my sliders are above 70, maybe even 80 and above.

Test with gt6 same problem wants to go left to right so the only thing I have not done was re install firmware but you would think if that was messed up it would not work at all. Or just send it out break out the g27 and go back to gt6 lol or just buy the servo base and f1 rim  
  
If its in all the games it could definitely be a firmware issue or it lost center. Probably something simple so I wouldn't give up just yet. I do know for a fact our wheels do not like static electricity. My girlfriend wont even kiss me good bye anymore if I'm playing. Everytime she does I get a static shock and it kicks the wheel off the ps4 and it goes nuts. They probably should have come up with a way of grounding them better so it doesn't happen.

Been using the mark iv at hockenheim classic the last few days. Fun combo but that car and the ai is aggravating. I can set good times 2.15-2.16ish but the ai occasionally rams you from behind and its pretty much over at that point and don't even think about touching the dirt or grass with that car.lol I may try turning the ai up tonight and see if they will run better so I can finish a race.lol Only problem with that is if they turn faster laps times 2.16s is like 7th on the leaderboards and its difficult to run that hard lap after lap. The corners aren't bad but you have to nail the braking zones on that track to set fast laps so one mistake there and your either slow or you blew the corner.

I've been driving mostly open wheel since I got PCars. I've driven GT and others, but haven't really gotten as much as enjoyment out of them as I have the open wheel classes. The Porsche rim changed all of that. GT classes are lot more fun now with that rim's improved fidelity. Turns out, I liked open wheel better because the F1 Rim was lighter and provided much better feedback. :)  
  
My shifter came yesterday. Got it set up and hit the track with the Toyota Rocket Bunny, and... Wow!!! I decided to jump into the fire and started practicing on California Coast--so many gear changes...LOL. I sucked bad for the about the first 2 or 3 runs, and then it all started coming back to me. I still have a lot of practicing to do, but I think the major suckage is over. And man is it fun to drive with that shifter. :applause: Now, I'm even more psyched about the GT4, classics, and Road Classes. A year later, and this game just opened up even wider for me. :)

I've been driving mostly open wheel since I got PCars. I've driven GT and others, but haven't really gotten as much as enjoyment out of them as I have the open wheel classes. The Porsche rim changed all of that. GT classes are lot more fun now with that rim's improved fidelity. Turns out, I liked open wheel better because the F1 Rim was lighter and provided much better feedback. :)  
  
My shifter came yesterday. Got it set up and hit the track with the Toyota Rocket Bunny, and... Wow!!! I decided to jump into the fire and started practicing on California Coast--so many gear changes...LOL. I sucked bad for the about the first 2 or 3 runs, and then it all started coming back to me. I still have a lot of practicing to do, but I think the major suckage is over. And man is it fun to drive with that shifter. :applause: Now, I'm even more psyched about the GT4, classics, and Road Classes. A year later, and this game just opened up even wider for me. :)  
  
It's one of the great things about a racing game you essentially can't complete it. Being able to create your own championships would top it off for me. So far tje season lengths have been really short. Maybe that will change when I sign a GT3 contract.

Been using the mark iv at hockenheim classic the last few days. Fun combo but that car and the ai is aggravating. I can set good times 2.15-2.16ish but the ai occasionally rams you from behind and its pretty much over at that point and don't even think about touching the dirt or grass with that car.lol I may try turning the ai up tonight and see if they will run better so I can finish a race.lol Only problem with that is if they turn faster laps times 2.16s is like 7th on the leaderboards and its difficult to run that hard lap after lap. The corners aren't bad but you have to nail the braking zones on that track to set fast laps so one mistake there and your either slow or you blew the corner.  
  
The AI for a few car classes is annoying. I've not driven the Mark IV but found formula gulf was a nightmare and when I was practicing using GT3 I was getting side swiped off the track alot. I had a few good battles with ai when using formula c though. I'm not confident enough with the very high powered cars as yet.

I've been driving mostly open wheel since I got PCars. I've driven GT and others, but haven't really gotten as much as enjoyment out of them as I have the open wheel classes. The Porsche rim changed all of that. GT classes are lot more fun now with that rim's improved fidelity. Turns out, I liked open wheel better because the F1 Rim was lighter and provided much better feedback. :)  
  
My shifter came yesterday. Got it set up and hit the track with the Toyota Rocket Bunny, and... Wow!!! I decided to jump into the fire and started practicing on California Coast--so many gear changes...LOL. I sucked bad for the about the first 2 or 3 runs, and then it all started coming back to me. I still have a lot of practicing to do, but I think the major suckage is over. And man is it fun to drive with that shifter. :applause: Now, I'm even more psyched about the GT4, classics, and Road Classes. A year later, and this game just opened up even wider for me. :)  
  
The Porsche Rim is Much Better than the Hub Rim Combo!!! I Never use My Hub any more unless its on XB1.  
  
The Shifter is Really Good with the Cars that are Not Paddle Shift in Real Life... it can be done but the Gear Changes are just too Quick to use the shifter correctly... You have to take the Auto Clutch off though!!! The Auto Cluch will Make you Miss Gears.  
  
Using the H pattern Really Changes your whole Driving Style...It becomes Much More Realistic... you have to really think ahead of where your at on the Track!!! Try to Slam 2 gears down with the Shifter and your off in the Dirt or Spin out!!!  
  
Using the Shifter will Make you faster because it Really Makes you Focus on Proper Braking and Shifting points.  
California Hwy and Nubergring are Good tracks to get familiar with the Shifter... after a while using it will be second Nature and you wont have to focus to make sure your hitting the right gear slot...3rd into 2nd gets me alot and i end up in 4th gr.  
  
The C9 is a Blast to use the Shifter with!!!

The AI for a few car classes is annoying. I've not driven the Mark IV but found formula gulf was a nightmare and when I was practicing using GT3 I was getting side swiped off the track alot. I had a few good battles with ai when using formula c though. I'm not confident enough with the very high powered cars as yet.  
  
I find, you really have to obey the half car length rule with the AI. If you aren't more than half a car length alongside the AI before it reaches its braking zone, it will turn in on you. Which kind of makes sense to me. I think the AI evaluates the corner and conditions as it's approaching, and then commits to a certain tactic to take it based on the variables at that given moment. If you're alongside him by more than a car length, he'll take that into consideration, but if you're not, then he assumes you will won't be entering his line and he takes the corner accordingly. I don't think the AI is capable of making adjustments after that commit point.  
  
I'd say about 9 out 10 times, whenever I have trouble with the AI, I wasn't far enough alongside him before the incident. Of course, sometimes he'll give you your space when you're in position, but he'll do it by running off track and cutting the curb...LOL.

Soo im Finaly enjoying Career Mode... the Time progression is Really a Nice touch!!! Only thing is if your Not using the Apps you will Have No Clue that your Lap Times are sliwing down because the Track is Getting Colder!!! While Running Spa i could Not figure out why by the 5th Lap i would always Mess up and Lose Time in the same spots but My Tires were 95% Good!!! Then i turned the app on and saw that Track temp went from 98°F at Race Start to 72 by the 5th lap!!! then I really paid attention and Noticed infact that the Sun was up and Bright but was going down by the Race end...Really Nice!!!

The Porsche Rim is Much Better than the Hub Rim Combo!!! I Never use My Hub any more unless its on XB1.  
  
The Shifter is Really Good with the Cars that are Not Paddle Shift in Real Life... it can be done but he Gear Changes are just too Quick to use the shifter correctly... You have to take the Auto Clutch off though!!! The Auto Cluch will Make you Miss Gears.  
  
Using the H Oattern Really Changes your whole Driving Style...It becomes Much More Realistic... you have to really think ahead of where your at on the Track!!! Try to Slam 2 gears down with the Shifter and your off in the Dirt or Spin out!!!  
  
Using the Shifter will Make you faster because it Really Makes you Focus on Proper Braking and Shifting points.  
California Hwy and Nubergring are Good tracks to get familiar with the Shifter... after a while using it will be second Nature and you wont have to focus to make sure your hitting the right gear slot...3rd into 2nd gets me alot and i end up in 4th gr.  
  
The C9 is a Blast to use the Shifter with!!!  
  
Drove the c9 last night a little. That thing is fun especially on cold tires.lol

Drove the c9 last night a little. That thing is fun especially on cold tires.lol  
  
Its a Super Wild Ride with No Assist on until the Tites Heat up!!!

I find, you really have to obey the half car length rule with the AI. If you aren't more than half a car length alongside the AI before it reaches its braking zone, it will turn in on you. Which kind of makes sense to me. I think the AI evaluates the corner and conditions as it's approaching, and then commits to a certain tactic to take it based on the variables at that given moment. If you're alongside him by more than a car length, he'll take that into consideration, but if you're not, then he assumes you will won't be entering his line and he takes the corner accordingly. I don't think the AI is capable of making adjustments after that commit point.  
  
Yep if you don't have a clear line its better to give them room and wait for the next corner. I find in most cases they are slow out of corners so if you plan for that and carry speed off the corner usually you can get by them cleanly.

I find, you really have to obey the half car length rule with the AI. If you aren't more than half a car length alongside the AI before it reaches its braking zone, it will turn in on you. Which kind of makes sense to me. I think the AI evaluates the corner and conditions as it's approaching, and then commits to a certain tactic to take it based on the variables at that given moment. If you're alongside him by more than a car length, he'll take that into consideration, but if you're not, then he assumes you will won't be entering his line and he takes the corner accordingly. I don't think the AI is capable of making adjustments after that commit point.  
  
I'd say about 9 out 10 times, whenever I have trouble with the AI, I wasn't far enough alongside him before the incident. Of course, sometimes he'll give you your space when you're in position, but he'll do it by running off track and cutting the curb...LOL.  
  
I understand what you're saying regards the AI. Definitely the curb cutting! That is when I am often smashed off track they are unable to slow down enough going over the grass etc. So a late braking move is a risky move anyway but more so in open wheel. I just feel AI has been better in other games. The small time I had with F1 2015 a few months ago I was loving how well you could race the AI. I can only use F1 games as a reference really due to no decent PC.

I understand what you're saying regards the AI. Definitely the curb cutting! That is when I am often smashed off track they are unable to slow down enough going over the grass etc. So a late braking move is a risky move anyway but more so in open wheel. I just feel AI has been better in other games. The small time I had with F1 2015 a few months ago I was loving how well you could race the AI. I can only use F1 games as a reference really due to no decent PC.  
  
I know what you mean. I used to think the AI was better in other games, but now I think they're just different. They do seem to behave better from a predictability standpoint, but the trade off seems to be their passiveness. In other games, the AI is often far too easy to pass and doesn't do a very good job of defending. I think PCars' AI is tougher, competition-wise. And I think it will get better and better as they iron out the kinks for PCars2.

The Porsche Rim is Much Better than the Hub Rim Combo!!! I Never use My Hub any more unless its on XB1.  
  
The Shifter is Really Good with the Cars that are Not Paddle Shift in Real Life... it can be done but he Gear Changes are just too Quick to use the shifter correctly... You have to take the Auto Clutch off though!!! The Auto Cluch will Make you Miss Gears.  
  
Using the H Oattern Really Changes your whole Driving Style...It becomes Much More Realistic... you have to really think ahead of where your at on the Track!!! Try to Slam 2 gears down with the Shifter and your off in the Dirt or Spin out!!!  
  
Using the Shifter will Make you faster because it Really Makes you Focus on Proper Braking and Shifting points.  
California Hwy and Nubergring are Good tracks to get familiar with the Shifter... after a while using it will be second Nature and you wont have to focus to make sure your hitting the right gear slot...3rd into 2nd gets me alot and i end up in 4th gr.  
  
The C9 is a Blast to use the Shifter with!!!  
  
The hub combo is just too heavy to compete. I'm going to take the paddle shifter assemblies off the hub and see if that lightens it up a bit. It won't be as a light as the Porsche rim, but it might make it more usable. If it feels decent, then it would be a nice rim to use with the shifter. I find it's always easier to have specific behaviors tied to certain gear. If I'm using the Porsche rim for both paddle and H shifting, then I'll get confused sometimes and reach for the wrong shifter. If I limit paddle shifting to the F1 and Porsche rims, then whenever I'm using the hub combo, reaching for the H shifter will be more intuitive. It'll also help not having paddles on the rim. :)  
  
If removing the paddle assemblies form the GT/hub combo improves the fidelity with that rim, I'll go ahead and order the smaller flat GT rim. It's 5 cm smaller than the oval GT rim, which means even less weight.  
  
My first few cars were manual trans. The motion and clutch timing came back to me really quickly. Occasionally miss a gear, but not too often. The thing I need to practice/learn now is heel/toe braking and throttle blipping to rev match. That's causes me to lose traction more than anything else.  
  
But yeah, overall, it's way more immersive. Makes those cars a lot more fun.

I know what you mean. I used to think the AI was better in other games, but now I think they're just different. They do seem to behave better from a predictability standpoint, but the trade off seems to be their passiveness. In other games, the AI is often far too easy to pass and doesn't do a very good job of defending. I think PCars' AI is tougher, competition-wise. And I think it will get better and better as they iron out the kinks for PCars2.  
  
Yes I agree, very much lift off and let you pass drive style when slightly ahead on a corner etc. Even when you're on the outside I found with F1. A bit more thought required for Pcars regarding best time to make a pass etc. A human driver would stick to racing line if not expecting someone diving up their inside at the end of the day.

Shifter installed. Now, only three things left to add--Buttkickers, a mounted monitor, and a nice button box. :)  
  
234767

Shifter installed. Now, only three things left to add--Buttkickers, a mounted monitor, and a nice button box. :)  
  
234767  
  
Nice setup i should of bought that wheel, mine is broke only had it 6 months done everything something is broke in the center because gt6 wanted to oscillat left to right and same in p cars, so im down for awhile.   
Sad part i have a g27 and DFGT just sitting here in boxs cant be used THANKS SONY OPEN YOUR EYES ABOUT TO GO PC.

Nice setup i should of bought that wheel, mine is broke only had it 6 months done everything something is broke in the center because gt6 wanted to oscillat left to right and same in p cars, so im down for awhile.   
Sad part i have a g27 and DFGT just sitting here in boxs cant be used THANKS SONY OPEN YOUR EYES ABOUT TO GO PC.  
  
Have you done everything on a PC yet as far as trying to rectify your issue with your wheel ?  
It can not be rectified if possible at all with a PlayStation 3 or 4 !  
You must get it to a PC to check things out with it.

Did everything I can ? There are two sensitivity modes normal that blinks and high that don't blink could this be a issue.  
In pcars you have the telemetry and you can see the wheel is acting weird I need to make a video for you guy's to see.

I'll have to boot mine up this weekend to check the settings, but at first glance, I'd question the low wheel weight. Why so low? I'm pretty all three of my sliders are above 70, maybe even 80 and above.  
  
The wheel weight is low because to me it feels like it distorts the road feel with a phony heavy dampening effect if set too high.  
I'm about to practice some laps at China course in a few minutes and experiment with force feedback adjustment. I think that it is a good track to try to do force feedback adjustments on because of its strange configuration with those strange turns and two long straights. Especially turns 1 and 2 for me.  
Can you feel at all what rear of car is doing ?  
Cause I can't feel at all any force feedback information for what rear of car is doing !  
It's all visual info with with rear spin outs no physical force feedback information at all !  
Trying to figure out the physical model that best scales to my wheel with F1 2015 as per the advice of force feedback article over at race department website http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/like-your-ffb-strong-think-again.30763/5   
About to tweak around with F1 2015 force feedback then get some sleep.  
All I can get so far is just front end tire force feedback information.

Did everything I can ? There are two sensitivity modes normal that blinks and high that don't blink could this be a issue.  
In pcars you have the telemetry and you can see the wheel is acting weird I need to make a video for you guy's to see.  
  
Don't know ?  
What does it do when you connect to a PC ?

Very interesting... Since Driving the C9 i find Myself Driving and Testing More LMP1...Long Story short is they All Feel Great ... I Mostly use the Porsche Rim to drive everything... when i use the Porsche Rim i have to set in Car Masters to 150 to get the wheel weight and Feel Dialed in the way i like it...other than that the wheel feels Light and in the turns i constantly over steer... I decided to try them with the Formula Rim and In car Masters 150 was a tad too strong so i set it back to the Norm Car Masters 100 and the wheel weight and feel was spot on again!!! The Formula Rim is Smaller than the Porsche Rim and that tad Bit of size Diff Makes a Huge Diff in the Strength and Feel of the wheel. I know that the Larger Porsche Rim Gives More Leverage so it Makes the wheel feel lighter but its interesting to finally be able to put a # value to equate the Difference in Feel for Larger Rims -VS- Smaller Rim size.  
  
For Me LMP1 with the Porshe Rim Car Masters 150 and Smaller F1 Rim Car Masters 100 Give same Weight and Feel.  
  
TF/RAC 75 i can use in Car Masters 200 with No Clipping!!! LMP1 is the only car Class that i Noticed so far that Needs Higher Masters than 100 but its Dependent on Rim used.  
  
Rim Size Seems to Make a Bigger Diff than i thought... This May have been a Very under estimated factor of the Universal tweeking Process because the Diff brand wheels have slightly Diff Rim sizes... No New Facts Here but Nice to be able to put a # value to Measure the Diff...Very interesring.

I'm new to this thread and have tried to read as much as possible to self diagnose. My problem is that I appear to be clipping in every car. When I turn telemetry on, it flat lines at the top as soon as I turn the wheel. It's always been this way for me since first installing PCARS. I've tried the tweaker files and they helped a bit but I still clip. I turned down the tyre force and that did decrease clipping but it also decreased what little feel I had. When I check the force feedback calibration settings, they are exactly the same for both default and classic. I've uninstalled and re-installed the game and deleted the Project CARS folder in My Documents to no avail.   
  
At this point, I'd like to get back to OEM settings. It seems odd that I would be clipping when using default settings. Any suggestions would be appreciated.   
  
Thanks.

I'm new to this thread and have tried to read as much as possible to self diagnose. My problem is that I appear to be clipping in every car. When I turn telemetry on, it flat lines at the top as soon as I turn the wheel. It's always been this way for me since first installing PCARS. I've tried the tweaker files and they helped a bit but I still clip. I turned down the tyre force and that did decrease clipping but it also decreased what little feel I had. When I check the force feedback calibration settings, they are exactly the same for both default and classic. I've uninstalled and re-installed the game and deleted the Project CARS folder in My Documents to no avail.   
  
At this point, I'd like to get back to OEM settings. It seems odd that I would be clipping when using default settings. Any suggestions would be appreciated.   
  
Thanks.  
  
What wheel are you using? If youre using jacks tweaker files id start with his baseline settings. Tf should be 75 and gain at 1.0 to start. I'm assuming youre on pc.

I'm new to this thread and have tried to read as much as possible to self diagnose. My problem is that I appear to be clipping in every car. When I turn telemetry on, it flat lines at the top as soon as I turn the wheel. It's always been this way for me since first installing PCARS. I've tried the tweaker files and they helped a bit but I still clip. I turned down the tyre force and that did decrease clipping but it also decreased what little feel I had. When I check the force feedback calibration settings, they are exactly the same for both default and classic. I've uninstalled and re-installed the game and deleted the Project CARS folder in My Documents to no avail.   
  
At this point, I'd like to get back to OEM settings. It seems odd that I would be clipping when using default settings. Any suggestions would be appreciated.   
  
Thanks.  
  
Try My settings they are in the PDF on First page... Pist your results i will get you Clipping Free with a Few adjustments... What wheel and Ststem are you on?

I'm new to this thread and have tried to read as much as possible to self diagnose. My problem is that I appear to be clipping in every car. When I turn telemetry on, it flat lines at the top as soon as I turn the wheel. It's always been this way for me since first installing PCARS. I've tried the tweaker files and they helped a bit but I still clip. I turned down the tyre force and that did decrease clipping but it also decreased what little feel I had. When I check the force feedback calibration settings, they are exactly the same for both default and classic. I've uninstalled and re-installed the game and deleted the Project CARS folder in My Documents to no avail.   
  
At this point, I'd like to get back to OEM settings. It seems odd that I would be clipping when using default settings. Any suggestions would be appreciated.   
  
Thanks.  
I'd just confirm   
Steering Gain is at 1.00   
Tyre Force is at 75   
In game Force feedback is 100   
And us Jack Spade's incar files , personally i use 66 sop but thats not for everone , but there are like 7 to choose from .  
From here defaults should fell okay but with some wheel specific tuning it should feel pretty darn sweet .   
Sweeter than mudder fugging bear meat is how one member describes it , lol

Helpful bunch aren't we , lol   
Or maybe just bored .

Nice setup i should of bought that wheel, mine is broke only had it 6 months done everything something is broke in the center because gt6 wanted to oscillat left to right and same in p cars, so im down for awhile.   
Sad part i have a g27 and DFGT just sitting here in boxs cant be used THANKS SONY OPEN YOUR EYES ABOUT TO GO PC.  
  
Pretty sure I'll be moving to PC next year. I'd do it now, but the room I'm turning into a cave won't be available unable next year.

The wheel weight is low because to me it feels like it distorts the road feel with a phony heavy dampening effect if set too high.  
I'm about to practice some laps at China course in a few minutes and experiment with force feedback adjustment. I think that it is a good track to try to do force feedback adjustments on because of its strange configuration with those strange turns and two long straights. Especially turns 1 and 2 for me.  
Can you feel at all what rear of car is doing ?  
Cause I can't feel at all any force feedback information for what rear of car is doing !  
It's all visual info with with rear spin outs no physical force feedback information at all !  
Trying to figure out the physical model that best scales to my wheel with F1 2015 as per the advice of force feedback article over at race department website http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/like-your-ffb-strong-think-again.30763/5   
About to tweak around with F1 2015 force feedback then get some sleep.  
All I can get so far is just front end tire force feedback information.  
  
It's been a while since I've played, but I'm pretty sure I was feeling the rear step out. I'll check mine out today, and let you know. Could have been sound and visual cues that I was reading.   
  
There was a post/website with recommended F1 2015 settings for each wheel.

I'm new to this thread and have tried to read as much as possible to self diagnose. My problem is that I appear to be clipping in every car. When I turn telemetry on, it flat lines at the top as soon as I turn the wheel. It's always been this way for me since first installing PCARS. I've tried the tweaker files and they helped a bit but I still clip. I turned down the tyre force and that did decrease clipping but it also decreased what little feel I had. When I check the force feedback calibration settings, they are exactly the same for both default and classic. I've uninstalled and re-installed the game and deleted the Project CARS folder in My Documents to no avail.   
  
At this point, I'd like to get back to OEM settings. It seems odd that I would be clipping when using default settings. Any suggestions would be appreciated.   
  
Thanks.  
  
It would definitely help if you posted your hardware and settings, so we can get a feel for where you are.   
  
Also, a lot of people keep a link to their settings in their sig, but here's a database of settings indexed by wheel hardware.   
  
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse  
  
If you're new to tuning, I'd recommend trying some of these, finding a one you like, and using that as your starting baseline. Since these settings are wheel specific, you should be able to quickly find something that gets you below the clipping threshold, while maintaining a decent feedback range, so you can start enjoying the game. You can fine tune later, as you learn more about the FFB system, assuming you even want to keep tweaking.

Very interesting... Since Driving the C9 i find Myself Driving and Testing More LMP1...Long Story short is they All Feel Great ... I Mostly use the Porsche Rim to drive everything... when i use the Porsche Rim i have to set in Car Masters to 150 to get the wheel weight and Feel Dialed in the way i like it...other than that the wheel feels Light and in the turns i constantly over steer... I decided to try them with the Formula Rim and In car Masters 150 was a tad too strong so i set it back to the Norm Car Masters 100 and the wheel weight and feel was spot on again!!! The Formula Rim is Smaller than the Porsche Rim and that tad Bit of size Diff Makes a Huge Diff in the Strength and Feel of the wheel. I know that the Larger Porsche Rim Gives More Leverage so it Makes the wheel feel lighter but its interesting to finally be able to put a # value to equate the Difference in Feel for Larger Rims -VS- Smaller Rim size.  
  
Removing the shifter assemblies from the universal hub, made a huge difference. Not just the paddles, but the entire assemblies on the sides of the hub. The GT/hub combo still doesn't deliver the same level of fidelity as the Porsche rim, but it's much better and seems good enough to use for the GT4, Road, and Classic classes that don't use paddle shifters.

Thanks for the link. I registered and posted my settings. Those are the settings I have after re-installing, I haven't changed anything. I did delete the tweaker files but everything feels the same. I only have 2 menu settings to choose from: Classic and Default but when I look that line items of each, they are exactly the same for each so I don't know what the difference is.   
  
My wheel is a T300rs.   
My profiler settings are:  
overall strength: 75  
constant: 100  
periodic: 100  
spring: 0  
damper: 0  
auto center settings: by the game  
  
PCARS is the only game that I'm having issues with. I've countless hours trying to get it to feel "right" without any success so I really appreciate the help. Thanks.

Use the Classic setting... all this does, is turn down the Steering Gain to 1 from 3.  
3 is really heavy and cause a lot of clipping by the way.

Use the Classic setting... all this does, is turn down the Steering Gain to 1 from 3.  
3 is really heavy and cause a lot of clipping by the way.  
  
I get clipping regardless of either setting.

Thanks for the link. I registered and posted my settings. Those are the settings I have after re-installing, I haven't changed anything. I did delete the tweaker files but everything feels the same. I only have 2 menu settings to choose from: Classic and Default but when I look that line items of each, they are exactly the same for each so I don't know what the difference is.   
  
My wheel is a T300rs.   
My profiler settings are:  
overall strength: 75  
constant: 100  
periodic: 100  
spring: 0  
damper: 0  
auto center settings: by the game  
  
PCARS is the only game that I'm having issues with. I've countless hours trying to get it to feel "right" without any success so I really appreciate the help. Thanks.  
  
With T300, I think you need to turn the FF and TF down a bit. Running 100/100 is probably why you're getting the clipping. You Relative Adjust Clamp value is really low, too. Try raising that up to 0.85. I don't see any problem with the Low Speed Spring Coefficient and Saturation values, but they're so close to the default values, I don't really see the point in the change. Try setting they back to 1.0, and dealing with the other issues like finding a good FF/TF balance, and getting the right RAC setting. Is that the value you're using, 0.06? That's probably why you're having trouble with the feel.

So I initially turned FF and TF down to 50 and yes, that took care of clipping but also made the wheel very light and airy. So I kept TF at 50 and moved FF back to 100. Clipping is still gone and the wheel has a bit of weight to it. I also adjusted the the RAC and that seemed to improve feel a bit more.   
  
So the clipping issue is gone; Thank you, I really appreciate the help.   
  
Now, I'd like to improve the detail in the wheel. I know most guys want to know when the rear is stepping out but I'm more concerned with over all grip. In other sims, my wheel will go slightly light or even vibrate a bit to simulate fighting for traction when I've gone beyond the tires grip. Are there any settings that I can play with to improve that communication?   
  
Again, I can't thank you enough for the help.

So I initially turned FF and TF down to 50 and yes, that took care of clipping but also made the wheel very light and airy. So I kept TF at 50 and moved FF back to 100. Clipping is still gone and the wheel has a bit of weight to it. I also adjusted the the RAC and that seemed to improve feel a bit more.   
  
So the clipping issue is gone; Thank you, I really appreciate the help.   
  
Now, I'd like to improve the detail in the wheel. I know most guys want to know when the rear is stepping out but I'm more concerned with over all grip. In other sims, my wheel will go slightly light or even vibrate a bit to simulate fighting for traction when I've gone beyond the tires grip. Are there any settings that I can play with to improve that communication?   
  
Again, I can't thank you enough for the help.  
  
If your using the t300 id give my settings a try. The new ones are at the bottom on the oscarolim site. I do you use jacks car settings so you will need to use them to get the full result. You should be able to feel all the things youre looking for.

With T300, I think you need to turn the FF and TF down a bit. Running 100/100 is probably why you're getting the clipping. You Relative Adjust Clamp value is really low, too. Try raising that up to 0.85. I don't see any problem with the Low Speed Spring Coefficient and Saturation values, but they're so close to the default values, I don't really see the point in the change. Try setting they back to 1.0, and dealing with the other issues like finding a good FF/TF balance, and getting the right RAC setting. Is that the value you're using, 0.06? That's probably why you're having trouble with the feel.  
  
Remember he is on pc. Don't they leave ffb at 100 and just turn the ffb down on the profiler screen or was it the other way around? 100 on profiler and turn down the ffb in game? The way he has it isn't it like turning it down twice? Just checked jacks link 100 ffb in game adjust wheel strength at the profiler screen.

Remember he is on pc. Don't they leave ffb at 100 and just turn the ffb down on the profiler screen or was it the other way around? 100 on profiler and turn down the ffb in game? The way he has it isn't it like turning it down twice? Just checked jacks link 100 ffb in game adjust wheel strength at the profiler screen.  
  
Yes, 100 in game. But I checked with Jack before about @wheel/profile attenuation for FF. He said he was running it 100 across the board, but I don't think TF/FF=100/100 is going to work well for a T300.

Yes, 100 in game. But I checked with Jack before about @wheel/profile attenuation for FF. He said he was running it 100 across the board, but I don't think TF/FF=100/100 is going to work well for a T300.  
  
Yeah TF/FF at 100/100 is too much for my wheel. It clips as soon as I turn the wheel. With my profiler FFB set at 100, 80 seems to be as high as I can go with TF, while leaving in game FF at 100.   
  
I've been adjusting the master scale in each car that I drive as well. Seems like most cars are set at 26, so depending on the car, I've been going plus or minus, within about 4 to 6 of that.   
  
It's not perfect yet but at least now I can drive a bit harder because I have a better idea of what the car is doing.

So I initially turned FF and TF down to 50 and yes, that took care of clipping but also made the wheel very light and airy. So I kept TF at 50 and moved FF back to 100. Clipping is still gone and the wheel has a bit of weight to it. I also adjusted the the RAC and that seemed to improve feel a bit more.   
  
So the clipping issue is gone; Thank you, I really appreciate the help.   
  
Now, I'd like to improve the detail in the wheel. I know most guys want to know when the rear is stepping out but I'm more concerned with over all grip. In other sims, my wheel will go slightly light or even vibrate a bit to simulate fighting for traction when I've gone beyond the tires grip. Are there any settings that I can play with to improve that communication?   
  
Again, I can't thank you enough for the help.  
  
I can happily recommend Morpwr's settings on the oscarolim site. Brilliant feel and decent wheel weight. The best I've used. I started adjusting things a bit myself but soon ended up back at his. Using them with Jack's classic in car settings which are great.

Yeah TF/FF at 100/100 is too much for my wheel. It clips as soon as I turn the wheel. With my profiler FFB set at 100, 80 seems to be as high as I can go with TF, while leaving in game FF at 100.   
  
I've been adjusting the master scale in each car that I drive as well. Seems like most cars are set at 26, so depending on the car, I've been going plus or minus, within about 4 to 6 of that.   
  
It's not perfect yet but at least now I can drive a bit harder because I have a better idea of what the car is doing.  
  
Are you running the default in-car feedback scales? 26 is the default Master Scale, which is why I ask. If you are, you should try Jack Spade's custom settings, instead. Even if they aren't your style, they'll at least give you an idea of how the dynamic range can be manipulated.   
  
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=891198&viewfull=1#post891198

Yeah TF/FF at 100/100 is too much for my wheel. It clips as soon as I turn the wheel. With my profiler FFB set at 100, 80 seems to be as high as I can go with TF, while leaving in game FF at 100.   
  
I've been adjusting the master scale in each car that I drive as well. Seems like most cars are set at 26, so depending on the car, I've been going plus or minus, within about 4 to 6 of that.   
  
It's not perfect yet but at least now I can drive a bit harder because I have a better idea of what the car is doing.  
  
Default is 75 for the wheel so that makes sense. The wheel becomes very non linear set above that also. Id try my setting with tf at 75 and the game master at 100 and sg at 1.0 to start. Remember you cant see the in game ffb master on the hud because its after it. Are you using jacks settings still for the cars?

Are you running the default in-car feedback scales? 26 is the default Master Scale, which is why I ask. If you are, you should try Jack Spade's custom settings, instead. Even if they aren't your style, they'll at least give you an idea of how the dynamic range can be manipulated.   
  
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?22938-Jack-Spade-FFB-Tweaker-Files&p=891198&viewfull=1#post891198  
  
I was wondering the same thing. Using the default car values he probably will get a lot of clipping even if he tried my settings or something close.

It's been a while since I've played, but I'm pretty sure I was feeling the rear step out. I'll check mine out today, and let you know. Could have been sound and visual cues that I was reading.   
  
There was a post/website with recommended F1 2015 settings for each wheel.  
  
Let me know when you have a chance to play F1 2015.  
Can you feel or get any type of informative force feedback for when rear of car wants to step out or rear tires spinning ?  
Nothing for me as far as any of that type of force feedback information ! If car spins out from rear it's no feeling at all have to catch from visual cue which is usually much too late ! Have to play game based on all front tire force feedback information ! Nuts ! :hypnotysed:  
  
Force Feedback Strength : 100  
Environment : 100  
Wheel Weight : 10  
These are force feedback settings that are giviving me the best road feel with F1 2015.  
  
If anyone is getting and/or feeling any rear tire force feedback information with F1 2015 please let me know your settings and what wheel you're using.  
  
Gonna try to also, get familiar and try to set my wheel up with Dirt Rally this weekend. :confused:  
  
My next career race in Project Cars is for 2 hours so, I'm taking it in stride as to not become overwhelmed !  
Doing things in 20 to 30 minute segments then taking a break for now. LOL ! :D

Thanks for the link. I registered and posted my settings. Those are the settings I have after re-installing, I haven't changed anything. I did delete the tweaker files but everything feels the same. I only have 2 menu settings to choose from: Classic and Default but when I look that line items of each, they are exactly the same for each so I don't know what the difference is.   
  
My wheel is a T300rs.   
My profiler settings are:  
overall strength: 75  
constant: 100  
periodic: 100  
spring: 0  
damper: 0  
auto center settings: by the game  
  
PCARS is the only game that I'm having issues with. I've countless hours trying to get it to feel "right" without any success so I really appreciate the help. Thanks.  
  
I have T300 RS also, make sure to check this out on this forum and use the tools to test your for wheels linearity at different strength settings in Thrustmaster Control Panel.  
http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?35147-Baseline-Wheel-FFB-Values-Google-Sheet-amp-FCM-Universal  
Be patient ! As this will take some time !  
T300 RS is not a very strong wheel in torque but, a very sensitive wheel in interpreting force feedback information.  
Whatever you do don't try to go beyond the torque capabilities of it and burn it up like I've read that so many others have done with it.  
With the scientific mathematical information you'll acquire you will be able to refine tweaking to your preference.   
Your force feedback will be sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat !

Let me know when you have a chance to play F1 2015.  
Can you feel or get any type of informative force feedback for when rear of car wants to step out or rear tires spinning ?  
Nothing for me as far as any of that type of force feedback information ! If car spins out from rear it's no feeling at all have to catch from visual cue which is usually much too late ! Have to play game based on all front tire force feedback information ! Nuts ! :hypnotysed:  
  
Force Feedback Strength : 100  
Environment : 100  
Wheel Weight : 10  
These are force feedback settings that are giviving me the best road feel with F1 2015.  
  
If anyone is getting and/or feeling any rear tire force feedback information with F1 2015 please let me know your settings and what wheel you're using.  
  
Gonna try to also, get familiar and try to set my wheel up with Dirt Rally this weekend. :confused:  
  
My next career race in Project Cars is for 2 hours so, I'm taking it in stride as to not become overwhelmed !  
Doing things in 20 to 30 minute segments then taking a break for now. LOL ! :D  
  
I jumped back into to it this afternoon. Man, it's been a while since I played. I see what you mean about the rear end feel. It's not as strong as it is in PCars, but I can definitely feel the back end started to go. Same with understeer. The feeling of crossing the threshold and reduced grip is subtle compared to PCars. Slip feel was better with higher Wheel Weight values. I had Force Feedback/Environment Feedback/Wheel Weight set to 100/50/85. I find some of F1's environment feedback, like curbs and bumps, to be a little too strong. I also like the progressive feeling of weight building in the wheel in relation to speed and turning angle. To me, that also feels better when wheel weight is higher.

I know most if all of you guys here are done tweaking, but if anyone is interested in trying some of my further experiments, I've posted my latest settings here: http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings.  
I feel like I'm pretty close to finding a good balance between road feel/curbs and finer detail, and would appreciate some feedback to help flesh it out. Thanks in advance.

I know most if all of you guys here are done tweaking, but if anyone is interested in trying some of my further experiments, I've posted my latest settings here: http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings.  
I feel like I'm pretty close to finding a good balance between road feel/curbs and finer detail, and would appreciate some feedback to help flesh it out. Thanks in advance.  
I like it a lot.   
A few tweaks for my wheel and the car behaver feels much more like dirt rally. I can lean on the car more and feel more weight transfer. I can feel when the car is loaded under brakes and when I release it. Good work.  
You may have pulled me back into playing pcars for another 50hrs.

I jumped back into to it this afternoon. Man, it's been a while since I played. I see what you mean about the rear end feel. It's not as strong as it is in PCars, but I can definitely feel the back end started to go. Same with understeer. The feeling of crossing the threshold and reduced grip is subtle compared to PCars. Slip feel was better with higher Wheel Weight values. I had Force Feedback/Environment Feedback/Wheel Weight set to 100/50/85. I find some of F1's environment feedback, like curbs and bumps, to be a little too strong. I also like the progressive feeling of weight building in the wheel in relation to speed and turning angle. To me, that also feels better when wheel weight is higher.  
  
Thank you very much ! :cool: For your reply Haiden ! :cool:  
I will try your ratio of force feedback settings for F1 2015 soon.  
A little worn out from PS4 playing Tom Clancy's The Division. Also, purchased Transformers - Rise Of The Dark Spark on sale this morning from the PlayStation Store.  
Just woke up with my controller in my hands !  
A 60 year old man has to have something to do ! LOL ! :rolleyes:  
I'm thinking that wheel weight at 85 will be a little heavy for me and the wheel I use which is a Thrustmaster T300 RS.  
I see in your signature that you utilize a Fanatec CSW-v2. Nice ! :cool:  
With that 85 wheel weight setting I might end up having to call the fire department with my wheel. :rolleyes:  
I've read on forums where so many guys with T300 RS burned their wheels trying use it with too high of torque resistant values on PS4 in driving games Driveclub, The Crew, Project Cars etc ...... :rolleyes:  
Personally the default value of 75 FFB in Project Cars is much too high from my experience and testing with the wheel I have.  
I chose to go with the most linear Normalized Wheel Ouput fall off then raise the deadzone removal in Project Cars for force feedback that's sweeter than mudda fuggin bear meat ! :cool:  
As, to not tear me apart and not tear up my wheel ! LOL ! :cool:  
I will report back on my experience with F1 2015.  
Will definitely try to look at the F1 Austrian Grand Prix live this Sunday ! :cool:

I like it a lot.   
A few tweaks for my wheel and the car behaver feels much more like dirt rally. I can lean on the car more and feel more weight transfer. I can feel when the car is loaded under brakes and when I release it. Good work.  
You may have pulled me back into playing pcars for another 50hrs.  
  
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback! Braking does feel good with those settings, now I just have to work some more rear tire slip feeling into the mix.

Grimey , just found yours settings here   
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/ps4-12/194  
and curious how you say suitable for all wheels ? Most wheels need atleast some drr and drf and all Fanatec need some form of drag removal , be it PWM or on wheel dri and you have them as n/a ? Shruggs .   
Apart from that they seem like good numbers but just need scoops and drr and drf adjusted to suit individual wheels .

I think I'm going through p cars withdrawl.:( Havent raced in 4 days this sucks. Hate it when real life things get in the way.

I think I'm going through p cars withdrawl.:( Havent raced in 4 days this sucks. Hate it when real life things get in the way.  
  
The return to it will be that much sweeter!

Grimey , just found yours settings here   
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/ps4-12/194  
and curious how you say suitable for all wheels ? Most wheels need atleast some drr and drf and all Fanatec need some form of drag removal , be it PWM or on wheel dri and you have them as n/a ? Shruggs .   
Apart from that they seem like good numbers but just need scoops and drr and drf adjusted to suit individual wheels .  
  
Those settings Have to be adjusted for the Specific Wheel being used by the User... Those settings will Never Be the same for all wheels and they also will Vary per individual taste.  
I still Need to Go through the site and Make Changes to explain that those are wheel specific settings that need to be adjusted to specific wheel used and taste...I put that up on the Fly and didn't go into great detail about much... I have Not Had time to go back to it yet... My concern was to put the Basic settings there so people could try and adjust them according to their personal taste with out Clipping issues.  
  
People will have to adjust Most tweek settings to their wheel and personal taste... its all about giving them a good starting point to tweek from.  
  
Edit: I have added the proper notes to explain how to use and adjust the settings... but i found No way to enter or change the in car settings from what they are locked to...maybe I'm missing something:confused:

6 hours is on and the Blancpain gt is on too woo hoo wait this is just going to make me sick I cant go play pcars after lol. O well I can get my life back again for a little while

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ldMZqoG_G9U/hqdefault.jpg?custom=true&w=320&h=180&stc=true&jpg444=true&jpgq=90&sp=68&sigh=_-lVFpWiImwQ0WvZAUrypUiG9hE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldMZqoG_G9U)  
Watkins Glen GP, LMP1 Marek video 1:29.6xx  
  
Watkins Glen GP, LMP1 Marek 1:29.5xx stock settings, 2 laps Lap 1 without telemetry and lap 2 with telemetry...On Lap 2 i almost lost it a few times and was able to counter steer and save the lap!!! ended up with a 1:29.5xx...i think i could have gotten the 1:28.xxx if i had not made the mistakes... My on screen wheel movement and RL hand movement are 99.95% 1 to 1.

its time for Me to start tuning suspensions... any 1 have any Good Suspension tweeks to share???

its time for Me to start tuning suspensions... any 1 have any Good Suspension tweeks to share???  
  
It's mostly car/track specific, but overall, the AR bars on just about every GT I've driven have been too soft. I can't remember one GT (and a lot of road) that I didn't stiffen the front and back AR bars at least one click. Otherwise, there's too much body roll for me. IDK, could be driving style/preference, but I find the defaults springs and sway bars are often a little too soft for smooth to textured tracks. So, when testing for improvements, I always start going stiffer. The default settings are usually decent for rough tracks, where stiffer settings can start getting a little skittish.   
  
I'm more of don't touch it until there's a problem when it comes to suspension, though. After a decent amount of laps, I make a few minor tweaks here and there to make the car more stable, but I don't really go any further until I know the car/track combo well enough to start really pushing the car's limits on a good driving line. There's so much variety in PCars, I rarely spend enough time with one car/track combo long enough to get to that point. Hell, I don't even get enough continuous time per car class...LOL

This is an interesting watch for anyone interested in Assetto Corsa.  
https://youtu.be/eL9wV3duqe4  
If you watch this could you tell me the question at 1:20:11 ? I just Can't understand him . Something about something not coming to the console version .

This is an interesting watch for anyone interested in Assetto Corsa.  
https://youtu.be/eL9wV3duqe4  
If you watch this could you tell me the question at 1:20:11 ? I just Can't understand him . Something about something not coming to the console version .  
It's about Trento Bondone, he says it won't be in console versions.

Oh okay thanks , an Italian hill climb , must be a mod ?

This is an interesting watch for anyone interested in Assetto Corsa.  
https://youtu.be/eL9wV3duqe4  
If you watch this could you tell me the question at 1:20:11 ? I just Can't understand him . Something about something not coming to the console version .  
  
From the way he was driving/cornering, the gearing, and the tire sounds, it seems like the physics are comparable to PCars in terms of difficulty.

Oh okay thanks , an Italian hill climb , must be a mod ?  
It's been in the game officially from v1.0 i think, but don't worry if it's not on console, you won't miss much. To me it feels like they just ported the version from Netkar Pro which is a very old game now, so the track looks awful and very far from today's standards. Trento Bondone in AC is ugly and boring, IMO  
  
Sorry for OT !

I need some help / suggestions on an issue please chaps!   
I have just installed some dlc I hadn't yet purchased and when I got into a race the engine noise was almost non existant. I've had this before but it cured itself after exiting race and restarting but not this time. I've loaded different vehicles and tracks no change.

I need some help / suggestions on an issue please chaps!   
I have just installed some dlc I hadn't yet purchased and when I got into a race the engine noise was almost non existant. I've had this before but it cured itself after exiting race and restarting but not this time. I've loaded different vehicles and tracks no change.  
  
I haven't had that one yet. Did you check and make sure the effects settings didn't get changed somehow?

I haven't had that one yet. Did you check and make sure the effects settings didn't get changed somehow?  
  
I'll have a look. I checked volume levels and they were all max. I've just done a database rebuild on ps4 which took a surprisingly short time. I've never done a rebuild yet so we'll see if that helps. Thanks Morpwr, I'll update shortly when I try it out.

I haven't had that one yet. Did you check and make sure the effects settings didn't get changed somehow?  
  
Touch wood, the database rebuild has fixed it. I had one short engine noise drop for less than a second on first lap but not since. Technology sometimes!

For those still tweaking, I've done some further tweaking of my own, mostly by lowering the overall FFB value to 80. It seems that for my G29, setting it to 100 over saturated things. I'm now feeling a lot of tire slip while cornering, along with weight shift during heavy braking.  
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/ps4-13/197

For those still tweaking, I've done some further tweaking of my own, mostly by lowering the overall FFB value to 80. It seems that for my G29, setting it to 100 over saturated things. I'm now feeling a lot of tire slip while cornering, along with weight shift during heavy braking.  
http://pcars.oscarolim.pt/wheel-settings/browse/ps4-13/197  
  
Saturation is a tough one to figure out until you do and realize it covers up a lot of subtle forces. Pcars does a really good job of simulating the forces if you get the wheel set right.:)

Thomas Cameron on the Assetto Corsa forum answered a question from me about Fanatec wheels support on ps4 with AC and he is saying Fanatec have a new range coming called the CSL Elite range and hopefully Sony will give them a go again. Fingers crossed.

Thomas on the Assetto Corsa forum answered a question from me about Fanatec wheels support on ps4 with AC and he is saying Fanatec have a new range coming called the CSL Elite range and hopefully Sony will give them a go again. Fingers crossed.  
  
What do you mean by range? Product line?   
  
Also, what does "give them a go again"? Does the PS4 console version not support Fanatec?  
  
Edit: I know there isn't native PS4 support, but are they coding Fanatec support into the console version of the game?

What do you mean by range? Product line?   
  
Also, what does "give them a go again"? Does the PS4 console version not support Fanatec?  
  
Edit: I know there isn't native PS4 support, but are they coding Fanatec support into the console version of the game?  
234899  
Here's a image of my question and the answer from the AC forum.

All I really wanted to know is if my GT2 will work with AC on ps4 and still not sure.   
As for "give them ago" Sony and Fanatec had a working relationship when ps3 was around but with ps4 Fanatec lost it for some reason. So maybe with this new line coming they might get together again and then all Fanatec products should get full support.   
Again fingers crossed :-)

All I really wanted to know is if my GT2 will work with AC on ps4 and still not sure.   
As for "give them ago" Sony and Fanatec had a working relationship when ps3 was around but with ps4 Fanatec lost it for some reason. So maybe with this new line coming they might get together again and then all Fanatec products should get full support.   
Again fingers crossed :-)  
  
If that's a DD wheel from Fanatec, I'm in. :)

If that's a DD wheel from Fanatec, I'm in. :)  
  
Nope... Thats their budget Wheel Base and Rim Solution... Look at the CSL rim thats allready out.

If that's a DD wheel from Fanatec, I'm in. :)  
  
I have a hard time believing now that thrustmaster has a consumer dd wheel that more wont follow at a more reasonable cost. Maybe this will open the door for some of the big name dd companies to make console ready versions and having a larger market lower the price. 1500-2000dollars is stupid for just the wheel. I understand because they have such a limited market at this point it raises the price point but that's crazy. Should be interesting over the next year or so to see what happens with the more powerful consoles coming out.

I ll drink to that.

I have a hard time believing now that thrustmaster has a consumer dd wheel that more wont follow at a more reasonable cost. Maybe this will open the door for some of the big name dd companies to make console ready versions and having a larger market lower the price. 1500-2000dollars is stupid for just the wheel. I understand because they have such a limited market at this point it raises the price point but that's crazy. Should be interesting over the next year or so to see what happens with the more powerful consoles coming out.  
  
Agree 100%....as it is Now Fanatec has said Nada about a DD wheel but i do believe that they are working on a Bigger Plan than just the CSS wheel line up....The only prob is it takes them sooo long to get their product to the Consumer Market...   
  
Has TM out a price Tag and a release date on their DD Wheel yet??? I havent heard any New info about the TM DD wheel other than it is in the works... I would love to see a working Demo model of it in action.  
  
I would Not spend $1;500 - $2,000 on a wheel that only works on PC.... I would do it if it covered all Consoles and PC though.

Agree 100%....as it is Now Fanatec has said Nada about a DD wheel but i do believe that they are working on a Bigger Plan than just the CSS wheel line up....The only prob is it takes them sooo long to get their product to the Consumer Market...   
  
Has TM out a price Tag and a release date on their DD Wheel yet??? I havent heard any New info about the TM DD wheel other than it is in the works... I would love to see a working Demo model of it in action.  
  
I would Not spend $1;500 - $2,000 on a wheel that only works on PC.... I would do it if it covered all Consoles and PC though.  
  
No word and I'm guessing you wont here anything until its close to the time gt sport gets released unfortunately. I'm hoping I'm wrong about that. Even if it worked on both that's too much but the price should drop if they had a bigger market and could spread development cost. Plus at a consumer level not full simulator the motors should cost less. I don't think we will ever see a consumer wheel with a safety kill switch and motors that strong for obvious reasons.

I have a hard time believing now that thrustmaster has a consumer dd wheel that more wont follow at a more reasonable cost. Maybe this will open the door for some of the big name dd companies to make console ready versions and having a larger market lower the price. 1500-2000dollars is stupid for just the wheel. I understand because they have such a limited market at this point it raises the price point but that's crazy. Should be interesting over the next year or so to see what happens with the more powerful consoles coming out.  
  
When my exhaust fan on my CSW base stopped working, I had a long string of troubleshooting emails with this one guy in the shop. I emailed him a few weeks ago and asked him if they had any new rims coming out, because I wanted to know before buying the Porshce rim. He said nothing was in the pipe at this time. I thanked him, and then asked if they were working on a DD wheel base. He then replied, "I'm sorry, but we're not really supposed to comment on development."   
  
The only thing I actually take from his not answering the DD question is that they are aware that TM just plugged hole in the consumer market. Whether or not they have something currently in development is still unknown. But I do find it hard to believe that they would stay quiet about a DD product that was coming to market soon after TM just revealed theirs. Even if they knew TM's would be out first, it would still be in their best interest to let people know they have one coming.   
  
I think the higher end wheels are more expensive because they're smaller shops. They also use higher end components and produce bases capable of coming close to RL force levels. I don't think they're gonna care about the console market, because they're servicing professionals and hardcore enthusiasts. Eventually, it might be seen as a market opportunity, but not until the stigma of console sim racing is gone. Right now, brand-wise, I think it's almost best that they don't have cheaper console compatible wheel. If they did, they'd experience the same kind of elitist attitude that console sims get from PC enthusiasts, except they'd hear it from the professionals.  
  
If I was on PC, I don't know... I could see eventually getting a high end wheel, but I think it'd more like the last thing, after every other add-on is in place. Because I don't think they provide the same level of benefit as other enhancements like Buttkickers, shifters, monitor stands, graphics and sound cards, etc. All of which are much cheaper, so there's more bang for the buck. My CSW is fine for feedback, so is my T300.  
  
Edit: Also... I think CSL stands for ClubSport Lite. :rolleyes: I bought that CSL wheel for XB1 and it sucks, compared to their other rims. The rim is hardened rubber instead of leather or Alcantara--feels like crap in hands--and there's no quick release, which makes it a standout pain in the ass, when you can change your other rims on the fly without getting up. I don't understand that rim. Design wise, it's the total oddball in their product lineup.

No word and I'm guessing you wont here anything until its close to the time gt sport gets released unfortunately. I'm hoping I'm wrong about that. Even if it worked on both that's too much but the price should drop if they had a bigger market and could spread development cost. Plus at a consumer level not full simulator the motors should cost less. I don't think we will ever see a consumer wheel with a safety kill switch and motors that strong for obvious reasons.  
  
Im Guessing that the TM DD wheel will be $699.00 --> 899.00 with No pedals... I could be wrong... im just Guessing....but IMO anything over $899.00 will turn people who dont currently own T500 or The Pro Pedal set away from it because that puts wheel and pedals over $1000 just to get going... People that Have Good pedals to use may still buy it... That extra $$$ to get a Good pedal set will make all the difference in the world.  
  
I think TM will do the Right thing and Keep it Reasonably priced though because it is a Console based DD wheel made for Gt sport that can be used for PC... That Makes a Huge Difference in price point... If it were PC based wheel that could be used on console the Price would be Higher and Not come down.

There is no way I I will buy that DD my t500 couldn't last for 5 months that thing will probably blow to pieces or catch fire not worth 1000 dollars

There is no way I I will buy that DD my t500 couldn't last for 5 months that thing will probably blow to pieces or catch fire not worth 1000 dollars  
  
Pcars has Claimed Many Many Wheels!!! The FFB is Brilliant its the Best on Console to date and is every bit as Good as any PC FFB that ive ever felt...But using the wrong FFB settings will Definitly Kill your wheel.... I dont think its the wheels just Breaking... Think about it...  
IRacing, GT and Forza etc your wheel would last for years...Using the right FFB settings is very important... This is another reason i use a infrared thermometer to monitor wheel temp while tweeking ... although some settings can feel same or similar the Wheel temps can Vary drasticly

Yeah I agree with you on the right FFB I know it wasn't getting hot for sure and dirt rally broke it not pcars. I just think I will wait to fanatec comes out better built IMO anyway. I was waiting on getting the wheel you have but I could not pass up the price of 400. During Xmas got tired of playing with the gt3 at that time

Pcars has Claimed Many Many Wheels!!! The FFB is Brilliant its the Best on Console to date and is every bit as Good as any PC FFB that ive ever felt...But using the wrong FFB settings will Definitly Kill your wheel.... I dont think its the wheels just Breaking... Think about it...  
IRacing, GT and Forza etc your wheel would last for years...Using the right FFB settings is very important... This is another reason i use a infrared thermometer to monitor wheel temp while tweeking ... although some settings can feel same or similar the Wheel temps can Vary drasticly  
  
I think PCars has claimed wheels because not all wheels should be set to 100 ffb or 100 tire force. All wheels are not equal, and that's why we have so many options and parameters for adjustment.

I think PCars has claimed wheels because not all wheels should be set to 100 ffb or 100 tire force. All wheels are not equal, and that's why we have so many options and parameters for adjustment.  
  
Yep. The FFB=100 advice was thoroughly misunderstood, still is by some. As far as burning out wheels, people seem to forget that Thrustmaster was having quality issues long before PCars ever came out. People were burning them out playing Forza and other games, too. Which is why TM's reputation was already in place when PCars released.

What do you mean by range? Product line?   
  
Also, what does "give them a go again"? Does the PS4 console version not support Fanatec?  
  
Edit: I know there isn't native PS4 support, but are they coding Fanatec support into the console version of the game?  
Stefano from Kunos answered my question saying he is not sure what he can say as the situation between Sony and Fanatec is a bit messy but at the moment they have some Fanatec wheels that are compatible with ps4 but he is not exactly sure what models .

Stefano from Kunos answered my question saying he is not sure what he can say as the situation between Sony and Fanatec is a bit messy but at the moment they have some Fanatec wheels that are compatible with ps4 but he is not exactly sure what models .  
  
This still leaves the Question will Fanatec wheels work with Assetto Corsa...I know there is No Native support for Fanatec wheels with PS4 but before the whole Licensing debate started Sony said that it would be up to Game Developers to program wheel FW support into their Games if they Choose to... So unless that has Changed Kunos can program in Fanatec support just like SMS did with Pcars and Codemasters did with F1 2015, Dirt Rally and thats that. The Only game that 99.95% probably will Not work with Fanatec wheels is GT sport because that is a Sony Team developed game... I can Live without GT Sport until a Solution is Reached... It Looks very Arcade like from the Videos ive seen.

Stefano from Kunos answered my question saying he is not sure what he can say as the situation between Sony and Fanatec is a bit messy but at the moment they have some Fanatec wheels that are compatible with ps4 but he is not exactly sure what models .  
  
Kunos has been trying really hard to make sure the console version maintains as much of the PC version as possible--FFB, physics, graphics, etc. Obviously, there are no guarantees, but I'd be surprised if the PS4 version of AC didn't support Fanatec wheels. Especially since the PC and Xb1 version would.

Saturation is a tough one to figure out until you do and realize it covers up a lot of subtle forces. Pcars does a really good job of simulating the forces if you get the wheel set right.:)  
  
I've restarted from scratch with the game, fresh install, deleted save file, yup the whole thing all over and my setting are ffb @ 70 and TF 50 and there is just so much more feel and context hiding under higher settings.  
  
Yea long time no see but I've been playing and often venturing into tt's to show the results, bunch of top 10's, even more top 25's and the occasional clunker time from a tuning fubar.  
  
Trying to tune if you can't feel the road properly is just a waste of time.  
  
I see this thread hasn't slowed up much, anything interesting of late? Summer projects are in full swing or as full swing as they get for me anyway, on top of just being busy in general I have a new doctor, new to me and even new professionally too, who has turned much of life upside down. Yea I have "stuff" but so do we all so whatever but anyway that's another reason I just sort of dropped off the radar. I've hardly been able to walk never mind contribute to advancing the cause here.  
  
I really did want to say again though that the work done by you guys to unearth the gems in the ffb system are worth way more than the devs had any clue what to do with. Really poorly executed game in so many ways but made usable by it's users. Did anyone else find the Independance Day weekend races as laughable as I did? Bugs everywhere, cars crashing into invisible walls that would come and go and then that one where all of a sudden the car is sucked backward down the track a bit before it flys off into the sky? I mean in an event for standings, really? But hey it makes for great video, NOT.

its time for Me to start tuning suspensions... any 1 have any Good Suspension tweeks to share???  
  
http://projectcarssetups.eu/#/bycar

Summer Time Madness slowed down a bit and i had a Chance to Run a Few Laps... I must say that after Not Racing for a few days the FFB feels Spot on... Just the break i needed to get away from old Bad Driving Habbits... Gt3 Ruf Stock suspension and Blazing 1:22.6xx on Laguna Seca consistently!!! Even took on Sakito Gp 1:44.xxx Not too bad considering i dont run it Much...still alotta time to be had there....I Still havent tuned any suspensions yet.... dont Know how deep i wanna go into suspension tuning... Maybe when its cold and i get board:confused: But im Finally Ready to take on Mastering Nubergring in the Gt3 Ruf!!! Ran a Few Good Laps there last Night and Kept it on the Track the whole Lap! Yup im Still Hooked on the Gt3 Ruf!!!

If you don't know what you are doing, I d stick to ready-made tunings per track, of course. I know I can't be fussed to learn how each of the settings affects the car. I am in the same position as you, just stock tunes all day :)

I've restarted from scratch with the game, fresh install, deleted save file, yup the whole thing all over and my setting are ffb @ 70 and TF 50 and there is just so much more feel and context hiding under higher settings.  
  
Yea long time no see but I've been playing and often venturing into tt's to show the results, bunch of top 10's, even more top 25's and the occasional clunker time from a tuning fubar.  
  
Trying to tune if you can't feel the road properly is just a waste of time.  
  
I see this thread hasn't slowed up much, anything interesting of late? Summer projects are in full swing or as full swing as they get for me anyway, on top of just being busy in general I have a new doctor, new to me and even new professionally too, who has turned much of life upside down. Yea I have "stuff" but so do we all so whatever but anyway that's another reason I just sort of dropped off the radar. I've hardly been able to walk never mind contribute to advancing the cause here.  
  
I really did want to say again though that the work done by you guys to unearth the gems in the ffb system are worth way more than the devs had any clue what to do with. Really poorly executed game in so many ways but made usable by it's users. Did anyone else find the Independance Day weekend races as laughable as I did? Bugs everywhere, cars crashing into invisible walls that would come and go and then that one where all of a sudden the car is sucked backward down the track a bit before it flys off into the sky? I mean in an event for standings, really? But hey it makes for great video, NOT.  
  
Unfortunately with graduations,parties and honey do stuff I haven't had much time to play lately. But I was playing around with the mark iv and the old mustang. The mark is a lot of fun once you get a feel for it and tweak it a little the mustang I'm pretty sure is just screwed. There is no way a 300hp mustang can spin the tires like that car does. Ive driven plenty of them and something isn't right there. Glad youre making progress with the settings. Once you get away from the really heavy wheel it gets easier to bring out the details.

Unfortunately with graduations,parties and honey do stuff I haven't had much time to play lately. But I was playing around with the mark iv and the old mustang. The mark is a lot of fun once you get a feel for it and tweak it a little the mustang I'm pretty sure is just screwed. There is no way a 300hp mustang can spin the tires like that car does. Ive driven plenty of them and something isn't right there. Glad youre making progress with the settings. Once you get away from the really heavy wheel it gets easier to bring out the details.  
  
Its the Tires on the Mustang that make it soo easy to spin them... They are Low Grip... I find the Mustang is Not Bad once you get the Tires Hot... I just have to remember to Brake way early and account for the Body sway... That car is alotta fun to drive!... I throttle Steer alot!!!

If you don't know what you are doing, I d stick to ready-made tunings per track, of course. I know I can't be fussed to learn how each of the settings affects the car. I am in the same position as you, just stock tunes all day :)  
  
Same here I don't change much if anything except air pressures and brake bias on most cars. I just adapt to the car and try to get as much as I can out of it. In most cases the default setup is good enough to turn top 10-15 lap times.

Its the Tires on the Mustang that make it soo easy to spin them... They are Low Grip... I find the Mustang is Not Bad once you get the Tires Hot... I just have to remember to Brake way early and account for the Body sway... That car is alotta fun to drive!... I throttle Steer alot!!!  
  
Yeah the brakes in that car are bad.lol I know the tires suck but it still shouldn't be like it is with 300 hp. No old small block mustang ive ever driven will break the tires loose at 40mph.lol Maybe I just need to turn the ai down from 100 because there is no way I can get off the corners as hard as they do with that car.

The Lotus 78 has always been one of my favorites, but I had no idea how much fun it could be with an H shifter. OMG! Did a few laps around the Nords last night. So much fun, and even more immersive. :)

If you don't know what you are doing, I d stick to ready-made tunings per track, of course. I know I can't be fussed to learn how each of the settings affects the car. I am in the same position as you, just stock tunes all day :)  
  
Tuning is pretty much the same in most sims, because it's based on RL physics and mechanics. So what you learn in one usually carries over. You don't have to learn it all right away. Try one or two things at a time. If you plan to be into sim racing for a while, you might as well start learning it sometime. :)   
  
Same here I don't change much if anything except air pressures and brake bias on most cars. I just adapt to the car and try to get as much as I can out of it. In most cases the default setup is good enough to turn top 10-15 lap times.  
  
I don't get too carried away, a few clicks here and there to make the car a bit more stable. You'd be surprised how much a single click to Fast Rebound (softer rears, stiffer fronts) can improve the car's handling in corners on bumpy/rough tracks. Will it make you faster? Probably not. But it will definitely make the car more stable in corners, which translates to better consistency and more maneuverability for overtaking. :)

Tuning is pretty much the same in most sims, because it's based on RL physics and mechanics. So what you learn in one usually carries over. You don't have to learn it all right away. Try one or two things at a time. If you plan to be into sim racing for a while, you might as well start learning it sometime. :)   
  
I don't get too carried away, a few clicks here and there to make the car a bit more stable. You'd be surprised how much a single click to Fast Rebound (softer rears, stiffer fronts) can improve the car's handling in corners on bumpy/rough tracks. Will it make you faster? Probably not. But it will definitely make the car more stable in corners, which translates to better consistency and more maneuverability for overtaking. :)  
  
That usually about it for me too. Usually the only time I do anything is if its really tight/wont turn or just stupid loose. Id rather be a little loose myself. But just like real life no car is ever perfect so I just do what I can with them. Like most of us here I don't have any ambition to be number one on the leader boards and tweak for a week on the same car to find a tenth or two.

Yeah the brakes in that car are bad.lol I know the tires suck but it still shouldn't be like it is with 300 hp. No old small block mustang ive ever driven will break the tires loose at 40mph.lol Maybe I just need to turn the ai down from 100 because there is no way I can get off the corners as hard as they do with that car.  
  
I started driving mustangs in the 70's and never stopped and this whole having brakes thing is something I've never heard of. There is the go fast pedal which come in two parts, the wheel spinning portion and then the watch the Chevys in the rear view mirror portion, stopping has always been a function of splodey pistonitis and coasting.

That usually about it for me too. Usually the only time I do anything is if its really tight/wont turn or just stupid loose. Id rather be a little loose myself. But just like real life no car is ever perfect so I just do what I can with them. Like most of us here I don't have any ambition to be number one on the leader boards and tweak for a week on the same car to find a tenth or two.  
  
I'm a big fan of driving the car quite a bit before making changes but there are cars with design flaws that need attention. From day one of manufacture a mustang would spin you off the road instantly with the stock suspension. They still can, you just have to turn off the traction control. Ok well anyway yea brakes, softer rear springs and appropriate damper settings are just a start to the ford rwd product line.

Ive never driven one that drives as bad as the one in the game. Even the gt500(yes it was a real one:D) I drove wasn't anywhere near that and it was a big block.

I started driving mustangs in the 70's and never stopped and this whole having brakes thing is something I've never heard of. There is the go fast pedal which come in two parts, the wheel spinning portion and then the watch the Chevys in the rear view mirror portion, stopping has always been a function of splodey pistonitis and coasting.  
  
Its always hard stopping in your own oil though.lol

The mark is a lot of fun once you get a feel for it  
  
I can't get that car to do ANYTHING. I've thrown every set of numbers I can find at it and it still just refuses to turn. Jack Spade, Grimey's, whatever. Some numbers cause the wheel to shake hard on braking. It just seems that car is cursed with me. Now I do not go into the individual tune settings because I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing so if that has something to do with it I'll just let the car gather dust like it's been doing for several months now. But at one time, many, many updates ago it was driveable.  
  
I went into Formula A for the first time in a long time last night to see if the revised scoop numbers Grimey had helped the wheel oscillation, it didn't. Reducing the steering gain down to .60 does make it almost go away but it makes the car seem very slow to turn.

I can't get that car to do ANYTHING. I've thrown every set of numbers I can find at it and it still just refuses to turn. Jack Spade, Grimey's, whatever. Some numbers cause the wheel to shake hard on braking. It just seems that car is cursed with me. Now I do not go into the individual tune settings because I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing so if that has something to do with it I'll just let the car gather dust like it's been doing for several months now. But at one time, many, many updates ago it was driveable.  
  
I went into Formula A for the first time in a long time last night to see if the revised scoop numbers Grimey had helped the wheel oscillation, it didn't. Reducing the steering gain down to .60 does make it almost go away but it makes the car seem very slow to turn.  
  
I don't get any oscillation in the FA with my settings. Give them a shot if you want--link's in my sig. You'll probably have to adjust the FF/TF balance for your platform. Xb1 is stronger than PS4, from what I've heard. it's been a while since I've played on Xb1.   
  
Mz is often the culprit with oscillation, though. Try reducing it. I believe Jack's in-car Mz is set to 40. At one point, I had to lower it to 36 for my global settings, but with my current globas, Mz=40 is fine.

I can't get that car to do ANYTHING. I've thrown every set of numbers I can find at it and it still just refuses to turn. Jack Spade, Grimey's, whatever. Some numbers cause the wheel to shake hard on braking. It just seems that car is cursed with me. Now I do not go into the individual tune settings because I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing so if that has something to do with it I'll just let the car gather dust like it's been doing for several months now. But at one time, many, many updates ago it was driveable.  
  
I went into Formula A for the first time in a long time last night to see if the revised scoop numbers Grimey had helped the wheel oscillation, it didn't. Reducing the steering gain down to .60 does make it almost go away but it makes the car seem very slow to turn.  
  
No shaking here in either car. The mark isn't horrible with the default car settings but if your wheel settings aren't letting you feel what its doing that may be the problem. I wouldn't think the scoop values would fix the oscillation. If your using jacks car settings then its a wheel setting issue causing the oscillation.

I can't get that car to do ANYTHING. I've thrown every set of numbers I can find at it and it still just refuses to turn. Jack Spade, Grimey's, whatever. Some numbers cause the wheel to shake hard on braking. It just seems that car is cursed with me. Now I do not go into the individual tune settings because I have absolutely no idea what I'm doing so if that has something to do with it I'll just let the car gather dust like it's been doing for several months now. But at one time, many, many updates ago it was driveable.  
  
I went into Formula A for the first time in a long time last night to see if the revised scoop numbers Grimey had helped the wheel oscillation, it didn't. Reducing the steering gain down to .60 does make it almost go away but it makes the car seem very slow to turn.  
  
PS4 i dont get any Oscillation with My Current settings....What is your GM FFB on with XB1???  
  
Edit: The Oscillation problem was Bigger than just the Scoop settings its a combo of High TF, RAC & Mz  
  
The Mark IV feels good to Me as long as i respect it for the Car it is.... Its Old Race Tec and its Not going to be super responsive, Brake Early... Maybe even that beast had front Drum Brakes on it??? Disk Brakes didn't become Common until the Late 70's, The Tires are Not Super Grippy either.

PS4 i dont get any Oscillation with My Current settings....What is your GM FFB on with XB1???  
  
Edit: The Oscillation problem was Bigger than just the Scoop settings its a combo of High TF, RAC & Mz  
  
The Mark IV feels good to Me as long as i respect it for the Car it is.... Its Old Race Tec and its Not going to be super responsive, Brake Early... Maybe even that beast had front Drum Brakes on it??? Disk Brakes didn't become Common until the Late 70's, The Tires are Not Super Grippy either.  
  
I know sms tried to model the old cars correctly but it would have been nice to at least have the option to use modern tires on them. I think for a lot of people that alone would have made them get used a lot more. I don't think most people especially the younger ones realize how bad early race cars really were. Ive actually read articles where professional and well known drivers refused to drive some of them because they were so bad or just ridiculously hard to drive.

I know sms tried to model the old cars correctly but it would have been nice to at least have the option to use modern tires on them. I think for a lot of people that alone would have made them get used a lot more. I don't think most people especially the younger ones realize how bad early race cars really were. Ive actually read articles where professional and well known drivers refused to drive some of them because they were so bad or just ridiculously hard to drive.  
  
A few options concerning tires would be nice. I'd also like the option to use tire warmers or not in practice sessions. The novelty of having to warm cold tires wears off after a while, and sometimes you just want to get to it.

A few options concerning tires would be nice. I'd also like the option to use tire warmers or not in practice sessions. The novelty of having to warm cold tires wears off after a while, and sometimes you just want to get to it.  
  
Agree with that one! The cold tires is a pita if youre testing especially with a track/car combination that takes a few laps to get heat in them.

I know sms tried to model the old cars correctly but it would have been nice to at least have the option to use modern tires on them. I think for a lot of people that alone would have made them get used a lot more. I don't think most people especially the younger ones realize how bad early race cars really were. Ive actually read articles where professional and well known drivers refused to drive some of them because they were so bad or just ridiculously hard to drive.Yeah I've heard that plenty of times.  
  
A few options concerning tires would be nice. I'd also like the option to use tire warmers or not in practice sessions. The novelty of having to warm cold tires wears off after a while, and sometimes you just want to get to it.  
  
You got that right. I find it quicker to test in TT.

I know sms tried to model the old cars correctly but it would have been nice to at least have the option to use modern tires on them. I think for a lot of people that alone would have made them get used a lot more. I don't think most people especially the younger ones realize how bad early race cars really were. Ive actually read articles where professional and well known drivers refused to drive some of them because they were so bad or just ridiculously hard to drive.  
  
The Fact that we know these tbings is Very telling of our age:D the younger generation has No clue about how a Older car with Center Link steering Feels.  
  
Rack and Pinion VS Center Link steering is like WW2 fighter planes VS Fighter Planes of today:ambivalence: then when you throw in the Old Tire tech, ... the Older Cars Feel Like Riding a Wild Bull VS Riding a thorough Bread Racing Horse!!!

http://www.wmdportal.com/projectnews/inside-project-cars-seta-tire-model/#more-6739  
  
Interesting Reading about Pcars tire model

The Fact that we know these tbings is Very telling of our age:D the younger generation has No clue about how a Older car with Center Link steering Feels.  
  
Rack and Pinion VS Center Link steering is like WW2 fighter planes VS Fighter Planes of today:ambivalence: then when you throw in the Old Tire tech, ... the Older Cars Feel Like Riding a Wild Bull VS Riding a thorough Bread Racing Horse!!!  
  
Its not so much the center link that is the problem. Actually a lot of it is caused by the steering boxes and lack of caster. But with the old tires they couldn't take advantage of running more caster anyways. Ive built quite a few cars with aftermarket steering boxes,sway bars,springs and better alignment specs that handle as well as or better than most late model cars.

Its not so much the center link that is the problem. Actually a lot of it is caused by the steering boxes and lack of caster. But with the old tires they couldn't take advantage of running more caster anyways. Ive built quite a few cars with aftermarket steering boxes,sway bars,springs and better alignment specs that handle as well as or better than most late model cars.  
  
Thats Still Modern Tech compared to what they had back in the 70's.... Not to Mention Shocks and Struts have gotten Much Better....No Power Steering VS Power Steering VS Variable Speed assisted power Steering also Now cars have Electronic Variable Slip Differentials(TCS) that help prevent wheel spin VS Positraction or Limited Slip Diffs all of these factors contribute to Older Cars Floaty Boat like Feel.  
  
The End Result is i think SMS did a Pretty Good Job of Replicating the way older cars Felt.  
  
Even if the option to use Modern Tires on the older cars was there i dont think it would have helped much because the other factors that make these cars handle Floaty and Boat like would still Remain...It would have taken too Many Changes to the original car physics Characteristics model.

Thats Still Modern Tech compared to what they had back in the 70's.... Not to Mention Shocks and Struts have gotten Much Better....No Power Steering VS Power Steering VS Variable Speed assisted power Steering also Now cars have Electronic Variable Slip Differentials(TCS) that help prevent wheel spin VS Positraction or Limited Slip Diffs all of these factors contribute to Older Cars Floaty Boat like Feel.  
  
The End Result is i think SMS did a Pretty Good Job of Replicating the way older cars Felt.  
  
Even if the option to use Midern Tires on the older cars was there i dont think it would have helped much because the other factors that make these cars handle Floaty and Boat like would still Remain.  
  
They did in most cases. If we could use modern tires that alone would help a lot along with the fact most of the cars are very tunable so you could take advantage of the tires. So it should be possible to get rid of some of that feeling just like in real life.

They did in most cases. If we could use modern tires that alone would help a lot along with the fact most of the cars are very tunable so you could take advantage of the tires. So it should be possible to get rid of some of that feeling just like in real life.  
  
To me, if you could make them feel more modern, that would ruin the fun. Why not just hop in a modern car...LOL What makes those cars fun to drive, at least for me, is dealing with their shortcomings. You suck for a while, but when you start learning the car and turning decent laps, it's rewarding. :)

To me, if you could make them feel more modern, that would ruin the fun. Why not just hop in a modern car...LOL What makes those cars fun to drive, at least for me, is dealing with their shortcomings. You suck for a while, but when you start learning the car and turning decent laps, it's rewarding. :)  
  
I get that part. That's one of the reasons I like the old cars. But it would be fun to throw some modern stuff at some of them too and beat them up on the track. I really like the protouring style cars like gt had. Old looks with modern performance. I could beat most of the cars in the game with mary pozzis Camaro. Plus it would probably make the older cars more appealing to the younger crowd.

I get that part. That's one of the reasons I like the old cars. But it would be fun to throw some modern stuff at some of them too and beat them up on the track. I really like the protouring style cars like gt had. Old looks with modern performance. I could beat most of the cars in the game with mary pozzis Camaro. Plus it would probably make the older cars more appealing to the younger crowd.  
  
I hear you. Sounds a little like Forza sim-cade, though, mixing and matching. :P I think if you give players too many setup options, they will just gravitate to the ones that works best, so all you'll end up with is a bunch of Mark IVs on the grid with GT3 modern slicks, and you'll be hard pressed to find a realistic Mark IV race.

I hear you. Sounds a little like Forza sim-cade, though, mixing and matching. :P I think if you give players too many setup options, they will just gravitate to the ones that works best, so all you'll end up with is a bunch of Mark IVs on the grid with GT3 modern slicks, and you'll be hard pressed to find a realistic Mark IV race.  
  
I'm not sure that would happen in this case. Like yourself some would want the pure form while some might want the upgraded version. Myself id probably use both depending on the mood.lol

Haiden... Have you tried the latest Fanatec FW??? They put Wheel and Pedal FW out last Month have you used it yet??? I was just Browsing through the Fanatec site and saw a blog about it... its been a while since i last checked...Im going to update when i get in.

Haiden... Have you tried the latest Fanatec FW??? They put Wheel and Pedal FW out last Month have you used it yet??? I was just Browsing through the Fanatec site and saw a blog about it... its been a while since i last checked...Im going to update when i get in.  
  
I saw it, but it seemed like it was still early Beta and most of the updates looked like they only benefited or affected PC users, so I didn't bother. When it gets posted to the main product pages, I'll download it. Until then, I think they're just looking for early adopters to help them work on any last minute kinks. :)

Found sth. in the fanatec forums. I sincerely hope (for the fanatec users) that this is not true.   
  
I have it on good authority from a UK game designer that any game running SDK 3.5 or newer (basically any PS4 game from August) can't support Fanatec wheels. This means that PS4 titles such as Assetto Corsa, F1 2016 and GT Sport may not be playable. This is until a licensing deal is done. Rumour has it that the issue is purely between Fanatec and Sony and not the game developers. Project Cars apparently did something very dodgy and are still in Sony's bad books. I hope this issue gets sorted because I have a premium Fanatec rig that I would like to use on PS4, particularly with VR coming. I can obviously go PC sim racing but I enjoy the social aspect of racing on PS4 with friends that won't invest in a PC.

Found sth. in the fanatec forums. I sincerely hope (for the fanatec users) that this is not true.  
  
Yeah that would piss me off if I bought a high end wheel and then couldn't use it on any new games.

Found sth. in the fanatec forums. I sincerely hope (for the fanatec users) that this is not true.  
  
I hope that's not the case. I'm not moving to PC until next year. :p I also saw this in forums, confirming AC's Fanatec support. I hope that doesn't change. If GT Sport doesn't, then that's one less racing title I have to buy.   
  
https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/support/faq/details&id=93

I hope that's not the case. I'm not moving to PC until next year. :p I also saw this in forums, confirming AC's Fanatec support. I hope that doesn't change. If GT Sport doesn't, then that's one less racing title I have to buy.   
  
https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/support/faq/details&id=93  
  
That kind of stuff is bs. All these companies should let any wheel work as long as the game designer supports it. They shouldn't have to get paid for allowing a wheel to work. There is enough money to be made without that and if they didn't pull crap like that they would sell more games. That's the problem with bean counters they don't see the big picture. You aren't going to replace a high end wheel just to play a few games and in a case like this they will force you and many to abandon consoles.

That kind of stuff is bs. All these companies should let any wheel work as long as the game designer supports it. They shouldn't have to get paid for allowing a wheel to work. There is enough money to be made without that and if they didn't pull crap like that they would sell more games. That's the problem with bean counters they don't see the big picture. You aren't going to replace a high end wheel just to play a few games and in a case like this they will force you and many to abandon consoles.  
  
I couldn't agree more. That's one of the reasons I'm moving back to PC. I'm not sure what Sony's issue is, but after years of not giving a f'ck when it benefited them, they suddenly want to start playing games. I don't have time for that corporate playground crap. I'm investing too much in this rig to wake up one day and found out I'm cut off from future titles. For $400 and $60 a game, I'll deal with their petty rivalry inspired BS. But I'm over $2K in on my rig, and I'm not going to let MS or Sony start dictating what hardware I can use. There's too many other options and the best sim titles are usually multi-platform or PC. Microsoft and Sony can keep Forza and GT if they're going to be dicks about it. :)

I couldn't agree more. That's one of the reasons I'm moving back to PC. I'm not sure what Sony's issue is, but after years of not giving a f'ck when it benefited them, they suddenly want to start playing games. I don't have time for that corporate playground crap. I'm investing too much in this rig to wake up one day and found out I'm cut off from future titles. For $400 and $60 a game, I'll deal with their petty rivalry inspired BS. But I'm over $2K in on my rig, and I'm not going to let MS or Sony start dictating what hardware I can use. There's too many other options and the best sim titles are usually multi-platform or PC. Microsoft and Sony can keep Forza and GT if they're going to be dicks about it. :)  
  
It amazes me these companies are so narrow minded. They think they are making more money when they are actually hurting themselves. How does limiting hardware help console or game sales? It wont force people to buy a certain wheel but it will piss them off. There is a whole market of sim accessories we could us if they allowed it. With things changing in the console market I would think sony and Microsoft should do everything they can to make us want to stay with them at a possibly shorter lifespan to keep up with technology. I don't want to go pc but if they start screwing us every chance they get I will.

Sounds like I need to sell the ps4 and move to pc

It amazes me these companies are so narrow minded. They think they are making more money when they are actually hurting themselves. How does limiting hardware help console or game sales? It wont force people to buy a certain wheel but it will piss them off. There is a whole market of sim accessories we could us if they allowed it. With things changing in the console market I would think sony and Microsoft should do everything they can to make us want to stay with them at a possibly shorter lifespan to keep up with technology. I don't want to go pc but if they start screwing us every chance they get I will.  
  
I thinks it in their nature now. Consoles have never had to be open like PC. They've always played and benefitted from the exclusivity wars. I don't even think they realize what they're doing in the sim space. PCars really changed the way people think bout consoles and racing.

What ever the case i could care less... Im having Big fun with Pcars since the FFB is sorted out... I have the Hub so i will just play Assetto Corsa on XB1... But from what i understand its up to the developers to program in wheel support if they Choose... Nope Gt Sport wont work with Fantec wheels 99.99% sure of that unless sony changes its policy/ways but that just means Gt sport will sell less copies... I dont think any 1 will buy a New wheel just to play it.... Thats Sonys Loss Not ours.... We as Consumers have to unite and show our dissaproval of their ways by economic boy cot of their products/Gt sport and i bet they will release a patch that Makes all wheels work.

What ever the case i could care less... Im having Big fun with Ocars since the FFB is sitted out... I have the Hub so i will just play Assetto Corsa on XB1... But from what i understand its up to the developers to program in wheel support if they Choose... Nope Gt Sport wont work with Fantec wheels 99.99% sure of that unless sony changes its policy/ways but that just means Gt sport will sell less copies... I dont think any 1 will buy a New wheel just to play it.... Thats Sonys Loss Not ours.... We as Consumers have to unite and show our dissaproval of their ways by economic boy cot of their products/Gt sport and i bet they will release a patch that Makes all wheels work.  
  
It's strange, though. Given their new relationship with the FIA, I thought they would want as many people playing as possible. But it seems to have the opposite effect, making them cocky and demanding. Figures. :(

It's strange, though. Given their new relationship with the FIA, I thought they would want as many people playing as possible. But it seems to have the opposite effect, making them cocky and demanding. Figures. :(  
  
Exactly... they will Learn when Gt Sport sells 1/2 million less than they think it will... They have to understand that Regular people Have Bills to pay and its Hard to shell out $400.00 + tax on a New wheel when you allready have a wheel thats working Fine and to add the insult to injury you still have to pay $60.00 + Tax for the Game!!!

Right! And I've even got a T300 I could use, but I'm not going to keep swapping bases. The only way that would be an option would be if GT Sport was good enough to keep me from PCars and AC for large enough blocks of time to make the base swapping seem reasonable. From what I've seen, it looks a good title variety wise, but I think I'd miss PCars too much. Kind of like Forza. I don't like enough to bother using the CSL wheel.

The Fanatec and Sony crap is absolute shit , sounds awfully familiar (Logitec anyone) .   
I've been planning a psvr and neo purchase in the very near future with just over $1000 saved for that , but with this impending doom I'm just now (starting tonight) researching a pc . AMD RX480 , i5 6400 . Looks promising .  
http://www.pc-tek.com.au/6th-gen-intel-core-i5-6400-32gb-msi-rx-480-gaming-pc  
Aussie $

I couldn't agree more. That's one of the reasons I'm moving back to PC. I'm not sure what Sony's issue is, but after years of not giving a f'ck when it benefited them, they suddenly want to start playing games. I don't have time for that corporate playground crap. I'm investing too much in this rig to wake up one day and found out I'm cut off from future titles. For $400 and $60 a game, I'll deal with their petty rivalry inspired BS. But I'm over $2K in on my rig, and I'm not going to let MS or Sony start dictating what hardware I can use. There's too many other options and the best sim titles are usually multi-platform or PC. Microsoft and Sony can keep Forza and GT if they're going to be dicks about it. :)  
  
It amazes me these companies are so narrow minded. They think they are making more money when they are actually hurting themselves. How does limiting hardware help console or game sales? It wont force people to buy a certain wheel but it will piss them off. There is a whole market of sim accessories we could us if they allowed it. With things changing in the console market I would think sony and Microsoft should do everything they can to make us want to stay with them at a possibly shorter lifespan to keep up with technology. I don't want to go pc but if they start screwing us every chance they get I will.  
  
100% agree with both statements.  
But here is the thing... We cant even guarentee that all future titles will work on pC now days either!!! EX the New Forza for PC has No wheel support yet... it only works with Game Pads... I think MS is just trying to figure out how to only let specific wheels work on PC too!!! just as they have done with XB1....Sony is just following MS because that BS that MS pulled making every 1 buy New wheels actually worked!!! They even got Me too!!! i was sooo Needy for a Good Console Racing Game i Ran and bought a Tx wheel!!! When the V2 came out i bought it because i got the $100.00 discount...the Hub i didn't sooo much care to have it and bought it just to have it in case something Good Came out on XB1...in any event it all adds up to over $1,000 spent just to have the ability to use a wheel on XB1...The sad Fact is that XB1 and Forza sucks IMO... so i feel like i wasted $$$ I haven't spent 5 hours on XB1 in the last year!!! its just a Huge Paper weight... The only games i will play on XB1 are the Shooters or adventure games and thats only because i find the XB1 controler fits my hands better... the PS4 controler is just too Small and uncomfortable for me.  
  
I hope sony gets smart like they have done in the past and change up like they did with the DRM they Bluffed MS the whole way they switched up which forced MS to change its DRM policy...Just a Hope but its unlikely because Drive Club still wont work with Fanatec wheels...So as it is any Sony Produced games wont work with Fanatec wheels.

Yeah i dont really care about Sony games but if they stuff up me being able to play AC and even pCars 2 then the big switch to pc will happen and Sony will loose all $ from me and many more unhappy gamers .  
I really hope they sort this out . I guess we will find out in just over a month .

100% agree with both statements.  
But here is the thing... We cant even guarentee that all future titles will work on pC now days either!!! EX the New Forza for PC has No wheel support yet... it only works with Game Pads... I think MS is just trying to figure out how to only let specific wheels work on PC too!!! just as they have done with XB1....Sony is just following MS because that BS that MS pulled making every 1 buy New wheels actually worked!!! They even got Me too!!! i was sooo Needy for a Good Console Racing Game i Ran and bought a Tx wheel!!! When the V2 came out i bought it because i got the $100.00 discount...the Hub i didn't sooo much care to have it and bought it just to have it in case something Good Came out on XB1...in any event it all adds up to over $1,000 spent just to have the ability to use a wheel on XB1...The sad Fact is that XB1 and Forza sucks IMO... so i feel like i wasted $$$ I haven't spent 5 hours on XB1 in the last year!!! its just a Huge Paper weight... The only games i will play on XB1 are the Shooters or adventure games and thats only because i find the XB1 controler fits my hands better... the PS4 controler is just too Small and uncomfortable for me.  
  
I hope sony gets smart like they have done in the past and change up like they did with the DRM they Bluffed MS the whole way they switched up which forced MS to change its DRM policy...Just a Hope but its unlikely because Drive Club still wont work with Fanatec wheels...So as it is any Sony Produced games wont work with Fanatec wheels.  
  
The way I see it p cars changed the racing title market forever. These companies need to see that. We want and need better games with better support. Most of us have waited years to have something this good on console plus their forward thinking on wheel support. Let as many people as possible play it. Its fine if you want to have a branded wheel but that doesn't mean everyone will want it or be able to afford it. I have a hard time believing these companies cant figure this out. Out of 4 regulars here there are 4 talking possibly going pc at some point because of their bs. Time for sony and ms to wake up because I would think it like that everywhere. How many consoles are you going to sell if you push us away. Anybody know how many console copies pcars sold? Ill bet its a pretty big number and worth paying attention to when youre selling consoles.

Especially as they have new consoles on the horizon . Decision , do i upgrade my existing console to a new one that doesn't support my wheel or jump ship to pc ???   
New console ? $500 and probably more   
New ps branded wheel $700 (T300 in AUD)   
$1200+ and limited by $ony   
Or PC thats better and not limited by $ony $1700 and use existing wheel   
Starting to look possible .

I have not raced in over a month, loss interest, (hopefully only temporary). However found this on another thread, thought some of you maybe interested in the VR demo. by Sony in your area.  
  
So PSVR is having a tour of the get up coming to local cities across north america  
  
https://www.playstation.com/en-ca/explore/playstation-vr/trial/ For Canada  
  
https://www.playstation.com/en-us/explore/playstation-vr/trial/ For 'merica

100% agree with both statements.  
But here is the thing... We cant even guarentee that all future titles will work on pC now days either!!! EX the New Forza for PC has No wheel support yet... it only works with Game Pads... I think MS is just trying to figure out how to only let specific wheels work on PC too!!! just as they have done with XB1....Sony is just following MS because that BS that MS pulled making every 1 buy New wheels actually worked!!! They even got Me too!!! i was sooo Needy for a Good Console Racing Game i Ran and bought a Tx wheel!!! When the V2 came out i bought it because i got the $100.00 discount...the Hub i didn't sooo much care to have it and bought it just to have it in case something Good Came out on XB1...in any event it all adds up to over $1,000 spent just to have the ability to use a wheel on XB1...The sad Fact is that XB1 and Forza sucks IMO... so i feel like i wasted $$$ I haven't spent 5 hours on XB1 in the last year!!! its just a Huge Paper weight... The only games i will play on XB1 are the Shooters or adventure games and thats only because i find the XB1 controler fits my hands better... the PS4 controler is just too Small and uncomfortable for me.  
  
I hope sony gets smart like they have done in the past and change up like they did with the DRM they Bluffed MS the whole way they switched up which forced MS to change its DRM policy...Just a Hope but its unlikely because Drive Club still wont work with Fanatec wheels...So as it is any Sony Produced games wont work with Fanatec wheels.  
  
The way I see it p cars changed the racing title market forever. These companies need to see that. We want and need better games with better support. Most of us have waited years to have something this good on console plus their forward thinking on wheel support. Let as many people as possible play it. Its fine if you want to have a branded wheel but that doesn't mean everyone will want it or be able to afford it. I have a hard time believing these companies cant figure this out. Out of 4 regulars here there are 4 talking possibly going pc at some point because of their bs. Time for sony and ms to wake up because I would think it like that everywhere. How many consoles are you going to sell if you push us away. Anybody know how many console copies pcars sold? Ill bet its a pretty big number and worth paying attention to when youre selling consoles.  
  
The thing is, we're talking about companies (MS and Sony) who make their money from console sales. Unfortunately, if you check the game catalog for each console, racing titles are only a small percentage. And sim style racing titles even smaller. There are actually quite a few console racing titles that don't support wheels (as crazy as that sounds). And the majority of console gamers are transient, moving from game to game. They consume the entertainment and move on. They aren't sticking with a title for more than year and building a rig around it. This is the audience Sony and MS model their strategies around. Forza and GT are sim like, but they're aren't at the level that PCars, iRacing, AC, and other PC based sims are, nor are they trying to be. Think about all the people that jumped ship when Forza came out and swore vehemently that the Forza racing experience was lightyears better than PCars (and not just because there were less bugs). I mean...what!? LOL. Think about all the people that still play PCars with a controller. They're mostly console players. MS and Sony know this, at this time, I think they still consider console wheel users a somewhat fringe audience. And they don't know what to do with them. MS had a nice FFB racing wheel (nice for the time and console). They stopped making it. I assume because it wasn't selling well. The few people that bought it loved it. But I'm sure they were a smaller majority. Most Xb1 gamers didn't buy the wheel. Remember, a significant portion of console owners are young and don't have a lot of disposable income. They spend $400-$500 on a console, and that's all they got. From that point, they can afford the $60 here and there for a new title, but, unless they're racing enthusiasts, they aren't likely to fork over another $400 for a wheel that's only good for one game genre. And then you have the Fanatec issue. Even if a console gamer is willing to go a little extra with hardware. A Fanatec setup isn't $400; it's at least $1,250 for base, rim, and pedals. Now, if you're Sony or MS, you know that's just a tiny sliver of your market. MS only worked with Fanatec, because Forza is also a PC title.

For Me after the PCars FFB was sorted out i see No Major benefit in going to PC... My PC will Run IRacing and Asseto Corsa at decent frame rate with High to Med Graphics settings... I Need a better PC to Run Pcars.  
Pcars driving Physics is on Par or Better than PC physics for IRacing and Asetto Corsa IMO... The only Prob with Console is the whole wheel licensing debacle.  
  
I dunno once fanatec Releases a Wheel Rim so Fanatec will Have Native support for the PS4 i may just buy the New PS4 $500. price limit on it though i will Not pay More than that for it...and if the New XB1 offers anything Good i may get it for Shooters and adventure games... Thats $1,000 total investment!!! and the best of both worlds...I cant justify Buying a PC 1,500 + just to Play Pcars when its Really Solid and Looks Good enough on PS4... the Older Consoles wont go to waste either I have more than enough Rooms with TVs in the House that i could used the extra consoles as Media streaming devices Net Flix etc... I might even save some $$$ because i can get rid of the Cable Boxes in those rooms that are Hardly used but i have to keep a cable box in there for the times when i have guest.  
  
Edit: I forgot to add the Cost of a New PS4 Native support Rim $400. so thats maybe 1,500 total investment and the best of 3 worlds, All Consoles and Current Mid Range PC.  
  
When i upgrade My PC im going top tier because i want to get at least 3 to 5 years out of it before i Need to upgrade it...thats gonna be $1,500 + and i dont want to do that for just PCars.  
  
The only Major advantage to Racing on PC is you have Less Crash Dummies than you do on console...But yup they are there on PC also!!!

It's not the performance issues that make me want to go to PC. It's the community and mods. It's just bigger on PC. You have more options. You can get more liveries, cars, configure a totally custom grid for a race. That stuff's not coming to console. And also, don't forget. If Fanatec does make a PS4 compatible wheel, that still leaves Fanatec owners short in the console space, because right now, I can use any of my three rims with the PS4 version of PCars. One the Xb1 side, though. I only have one options, the CSL. And I don't even like it. If I can only use one rim with a Fanatec base on PS4, then I'm definitely gone.  
  
Edit: Also... with the exception of a few exclusives (Halo, Gears, etc), most of the games I play are multiplatform, anyway. IMO, shooters are actually better on PC for the same reasons--community and mods. That's also where I started playing shooters and to this day, fifteen years after returning to console, I'm still better at shooters with the keyboard/mouse combo than I am with a controller...LOL   
  
Of course, on the PC side, good gaming assumes you stay current with your hardware, so you can run the games at high settings. The constant upgrading is a hassle and what drove me to console. But if Sony and MS are going to start kicking out new hardware every 4 years at $400 a pop, then I'm still upgrading at approximately the same rate and expense. The only difference is, I'm upgrading a less powerful system. I don't see the point in doing that.

The Hub Rim Combo defintly sucks in Comparison to the Porsche and F1 rim... I dont own a CSL Rim but i was looking at the way it goes on the base and thought it was Not Good... after reading the Consumer reviews of it (the Beta tester Reviews were and are always going to be good because they got Free Product...Its always Good even if it sucks when its Free... LOL.) I decided that it was just better to Keep the Hub Rim combo... If they come out with a Version of the Porsche Rim for XB1 and PS4 i will buy them and get the smaller Flat Rim to use on the Hub as a F1 Rim with XB1.  
  
Sooo Much $$$ is invested in Console Racing... RS1 Rig, V2 wheel, 3 Rims, V3 pedals, CSS SQ Shifter, Hand Brake that the time for choice is at Hand... Either Jump out and Go PC all the way or Stay in it spend a few more $$$ and Hope for the best...I think im going with the latter choice and just hope for the best... Mean while Keeping a keen eye on the PC market for the best time to upgrade... as it is Now i would only go i7 and better specs and thats very Costly ATM... But in any event its a Win Win situation because what ever i invest in the wheel should/Hopefuly work on PC when I upgrade.... But i too think this may be the last Gen of Consoles i buy.  
  
Hey you only Live once so you Might as well spend $$$ on your pass time Hobby and have fun because your Not going to be burried with a single $$$ in your pocket... LOL

It's strange, though. Given their new relationship with the FIA, I thought they would want as many people playing as possible. But it seems to have the opposite effect, making them cocky and demanding. Figures. :(  
  
To me the same thing applies to automobile manufacturers. Why don't you want your cars seen and played by as many people as possible? Porsche comes to mind with their "exclusive" EA Sports license.  
  
Unless it's because they are afraid of how their cars will be represented. But you hold the cars back from some of the biggest racing games on the planet and restrict them to one of the smallest games out there? Just doesn't make good business sense to me.  
  
But talking about wheels and consoles and such, at this point I just don't ever see myself being wowed enough by a Playstation game to warrant buying another console and wheel rig just for it. One I don't have that kind of spare coinage, two being an apartment dweller I don't have the extra space.

Just in case anybody wants to know the old mustang has the springs reversed default. The front should be softer. Real factory springs were 18 front and 23 rear for a k code car. A little soft but a much better starting point balance wise and much easier to drive. It was driving me nuts why that car was so bad and adjustments didn't seem to do what youd expect so I looked up the factory specs.

I have tried the New fanatec Dr 250 and Wheel FW 176 and its very Good Very stable!!! it feels more finer tuned and more refined than the last Wheel FW...they said they adjusted some of the FFB perimeters... Not exactly sure yet what they did but it feels better in a subtle way that i cant pin point to describe yet... what i can say is the wheel center is notably better/tighter/responsive but still very smooth.  
  
if your on the fence about updating your v2 or v1 wheel... I say do it the FW is good from what i have felt sooo far.

Good news from Fanatec on the new CSL Elite wheel. Always something else to buy...LOL.  
  
"Production starts next week and if everything goes smoothly we plan to put it in our webhshop soon."

Good news from Fanatec on the new CSL Elite wheel. Always something else to buy...LOL.  
  
"Production starts next week and if everything goes smoothly we plan to put it in our webhshop soon."  
  
Were Not Buying that Haiden.... Its the Budget Line wheel...its the little Brother to the V2.... because we have V2 wheel already it would be a step backwards.

Were Not Buying that Haiden.... Its the Budget Line wheel...its the little Brother to the V2.... because we have V2 wheel already it would be a step backwards.  
  
Oh, someone had mentioned that and I thought they speculated it was the DD wheel. I should have known with the CSL in the title. It's true then. "CSL" does mean Clubsport Lite... LOL

I have tried the New fanatec Dr 250 and Wheel FW 176 and its very Good Very stable!!! it feels more finer tuned and more refined than the last Wheel FW...they said they adjusted some of the FFB perimeters... Not exactly sure yet what they did but it feels better in a subtle way that i cant pin point to describe yet... what i can say is the wheel center is notably better/tighter/responsive but still very smooth.  
  
if your on the fence about updating your v2 or v1 wheel... I say do it the FW is good from what i have felt sooo far.  
  
I gave it a shot. It definitely felt different to me--slightly weaker and a larger deadzone. It didn't feel bad, but it was different enough that I felt like I need a little practice. Oddly, the wheel also felt closer to me somehow, or like there was something between the rim and the base. Don't know how else to explain it.   
  
Anyway, I ran the FCM tool after about 30 mins of play, and the curve was very different. It was no longer even close to being linear, dropping well below the line, with a bend that looked like how the curve looks with Scoop settings. I'm reloading the 231 driver now to compare the feel again. The brakes also felt more sensitive with the 250 driver. And I like that when you center calibrate after flashing the 250 driver will immediately go into shifter calibration if you have it connected or as soon as you connect the device. With the 231 driver, you have to manually start the shifter calibration. IDK, I just don't like the look of the curve with v250.

There must have been something wrong with the first installation. I reinstalled v250, and the force curve looks similar to the way it did with v231. The FFB with v250 feels fine. The deadzone was a little larger. Increasing DRR a little solved that. The brakes also feel a little more sensitive, and somehow smoother.

Good news from Fanatec on the new CSL Elite wheel. Always something else to buy...LOL.  
  
"Production starts next week and if everything goes smoothly we plan to put it in our webhshop soon."  
  
Nice to have some good news from Fanatec, let's hope they have some good news for existing Fanatec owners for compatibility for existing wheels with new ps4 games.   
It's not so easy for my wheel to just change rims like CSW-v2 owners.   
On PC news it looks like I can build a triple screen, VR ready pc for $1300aud. With i5 6600, Gtx 980 or Rx480.

Nice to have some good news from Fanatec, let's hope they have some good news for existing Fanatec owners for compatibility for existing wheels with new ps4 games.   
It's not so easy for my wheel to just change rims like CSW-v2 owners.   
On PC news it looks like I can build a triple screen, VR ready pc for $1300aud. With i5 6600, Gtx 980 or Rx480.  
  
Unfortunately, though, it seems like Fanatec is busy trying to capture a bit of the low-mid market share being spawned by consoles. If the CSL Elite is just a cheaper, lite version of the CSW, then that's disappointing. I mean, I understand it from a business perspective. And I guess it's a good market expansion for them. But as a consumer, the only thing I'm interested in seeing from Fanatec is a DD wheel base or new rim options (with quick releases).

Unfortunately, though, it seems like Fanatec is busy trying to capture a bit of the low-mid market share being spawned by consoles. If the CSL Elite is just a cheaper, lite version of the CSW, then that's disappointing. I mean, I understand it from a business perspective. And I guess it's a good market expansion for them. But as a consumer, the only thing I'm interested in seeing from Fanatec is a DD wheel base or new rim options (with quick releases).  
  
Fanatec will eventualy Bring out a DD wheel but given their history when it comes to releasing New Products i dont expect that until Next year probably right before Pcars 2 launches... JMO Shrugggs....But with the New V2 FW i Really Question just How Much Better a DD wheel could or would Be??? With Every New FW the V2 gets better and Better!!! The New V2 FW 176 has taken PS4 Pcars FFB up a Few Notches!!! but the Biggest suprise is Dirt Rally Shows the Biggest improvement in FFB feel with the New FW... I Have Not tried the V2 and New FW on XB1 yet.

Fanatec will eventualy Bring out a DD wheel but given their history when it comes to releasing New Products i dont expect that until Next year probably right before Pcars 2 launches... JMO Shrugggs....But with the New V2 FW i Really Question just How Much Better a DD wheel could or would Be??? With Every New FW the V2 gets better and Better!!! The New V2 FW 176 has taken PS4 Pcars FFB up a Few Notches!!! but the Biggest suprise is Dirt Rally Shows the Biggest improvement in FFB feel with the New FW... I Have Not tried the V2 and New FW on XB1 yet.  
  
The thing with DD wheels is it really depends on the manufacturer, and their starting point. By design, DD wheels are more efficient than belt driven, because you're basically removing a middle man/component(s). Pulleys reduce strength from the motor and increase response time. Will TM's DD wheel be better than it's belt driven model? Yes, of course. But across manufacturers, that isn't guaranteed to be the case. Fanatec's belt system is way ahead of TM's, fidelity and strength wise. So the TM DD wheel might just bring TM up to Fanatec level, or perhaps slightly better. Now, a DD wheel from Fanatec, on the other hand, is pretty much guaranteed to be a lot better than the CSW's belt system, at least IMO. Otherwise, why spend the money and time on R&D just to make a base that's only slightly better?   
  
The new firmware does feel better. I feel like the steering has changed, though. I was online last night and felt like the BMW GT3 was turning way tighter than it was before, to the point where I might have to adjust the steering ratio. The McLaren didn't feel strange, but I haven't driven that car in months. The BMW GT3, I've been driving pretty regularly, so it'd be easier to detect the change. IDK, might just be my imagination. :)

The Hub Rim Combo defintly sucks in Comparison to the Porsche and F1 rim... I dont own a CSL Rim but i was looking at the way it goes on the base and thought it was Not Good... after reading the Consumer reviews of it (the Beta tester Reviews were and are always going to be good because they got Free Product...Its always Good even if it sucks when its Free... LOL.) I decided that it was just better to Keep the Hub Rim combo... If they come out with a Version of the Porsche Rim for XB1 and PS4 i will buy them and get the smaller Flat Rim to use on the Hub as a F1 Rim with XB1.  
  
I'm actually ordering the Flat rim today. After stripping the paddle assemblies off of the hub, my GT rim has a lot better fidelity, and I've been using it for the classics and any car that has an H or sequential shifter. This weekend, I realized that I could even remove the button assemblies, or at least a couple of them. I don't use the on-wheel buttons much at all while driving. I have my Look (behind, left, right) and brake bias mapped to the funky switch, and the cars I drive with that rim don't have KERS or DRS, so most of the buttons I need aren't really used while driving. That means the redundant little rubber buttons on top of the hub are fine for navigating menus and such. Removing two, maybe three, button assemblies would make the hub even lighter, coupled with the smaller Flat rim, the fidelity will probably be similar to the F1 rim.

The thing with DD wheels is it really depends on the manufacturer, and their starting point. By design, DD wheels are more efficient than belt driven, because you're basically removing a middle man/component(s). Pulleys reduce strength from the motor and increase response time. Will TM's DD wheel be better than it's belt driven model? Yes, of course. But across manufacturers, that isn't guaranteed to be the case. Fanatec's belt system is way ahead of TM's, fidelity and strength wise. So the TM DD wheel might just bring TM up to Fanatec level, or perhaps slightly better. Now, a DD wheel from Fanatec, on the other hand, is pretty much guaranteed to be a lot better than the CSW's belt system, at least IMO. Otherwise, why spend the money and time on R&D just to make a base that's only slightly better?   
  
The new firmware does feel better. I feel like the steering has changed, though. I was online last night and felt like the BMW GT3 was turning way tighter than it was before, to the point where I might have to adjust the steering ratio. The McLaren didn't feel strange, but I haven't driven that car in months. The BMW GT3, I've been driving pretty regularly, so it'd be easier to detect the change. IDK, might just be my imagination. :)  
  
I get that Super sensitive steering some times too with the Gt3 Ruf... Some times the wheel Steering ratio Loads screwed up... I back out Let it Reload and usualy it straightens out.  
  
I Figure the DD wheels will be Better but My Question is How Much Better??? Will it be worth the Price of Buying a New Wheel better is My exact thought:confused:... The V2 feels spot on Now... When they come out with the Final FW it will be even better even if its just a Tad better thats huge because the V2 wheel V3 pedal combo feels that Good Now.... If they Release a DD wheel Right Now... I dunno if id buy it... i would continue My Quest to upgrade to PC first then Go DD wheel because I think the V2 May be almost at the Apex of Console FFB performance as it is.

I get that Super sensitive steering some times too with the Gt3 Ruf... Some times the wheel/ STEERING ratio Loads screwed up... I back out and Reload and Let it Reliad and usualy it straightens out.  
  
I Figure the DD wheels wilk be Better but My Question is How Much Better??? Will it be worth the Price of Buying a New Wheel better is My exact thought:confused:... The V2 feels spot on Now... When they come out with the Final FW it will be even better even if its just a Tad better thats huge because the V2 wheel V3 pedal combo feels that Good Now.... If they Release a DD wheel Right Now... I dunno if id buy it... i would continue My Quest to upgrade to PC first then Go DD wheel because I think the V2 May be almost at the Apex of Console FFB performance as it is.  
  
I think that's what the steering issue was, because I also got that grinding crap during one race. It really sucked, too. As could as it can be, PCars can really disappoint sometimes, too. I found an online session with a full grid at Donington. I had just race a career race there there other day, and was warmed up to the track. Qualified 4th, and the top 7 were all within a second of each other. It was looking like it would be a good race. Then the race loaded. I got a good start went into the first turn in 3rd place, and what do I feel? Heavy grinding from corrupted FFB. Tried to keep going, but just couldn't hang and it felt too bad to continue. So I back out pissed off. It should have been a good race.   
  
A couple crash fest races later, I see a full session at Silverstone and think, "Awesome! My favorite track." Qualified first, but then got beat out by .210 in the last 30 seconds of the quali. And 3rd and 4th were close to our pace, as well. Sweet! Figured it would be a good race. I noticed the steering felt weird at the first turn, but it's wasn't until we hit the first hard right that I realized the ratio was jacked up. Had to back out of that race, too. I was so pissed at this game...LOL Both of those should have been awesome races.   
  
Anyway... a few races later I got in a server and got pushed off track at the first turn, along with half the grid. Turned out, about five of us were all around the same pace, and the leaders weren't that good. A pack of four of us spent the next ten laps working our way back up the grid, battling each other along the way and using the slower cars as moving picks...LOL. It was so much fun, I don't even remember what place we came it. But with the exception of the horrible first turn cluster (caused by two idiot), the rest of the race was clean wheel to wheel fun. Totally made up for the other two failed sessions. Damn you PCars! It's a love hate relationship.  
  
Yeah... that's a good point about the DD wheel. I don't think I would get a DD wheel for console. I don't think the console FFB is nuanced enough to properly utilize it. I'm also not sure I want to be an early adopter--probably best to wait a while. Like you said, the CSW-v2 is a great wheel. And there are quite a few other things I could add to the rig that would improve the experience/immersion more than a wheel upgrade. Might as well work on those things, and then make a wheel upgrade the final thing.

Off topic, but...   
  
Has anyone ever heard of this place? They have locations/setups all over. Three very close to me. I'm gonna look into this, because I'd love to run a few laps with a Ferrari 458 or a McLaren P1.  
  
http://www.thextremexperience.com

Off topic, but...   
  
Has anyone ever heard of this place? They have locations/setups all over. Three very close to me. I'm gonna look into this, because I'd love to run a few laps with a Ferrari 458 or a McLaren P1.  
  
http://www.thextremexperience.com  
  
I had a gift certificate for one these , exotic car drive. Be very careful of the fine print. Some of the items I remember:  
  
Can not rev over 6000 rpm . You will need to granny shift. If you do exceed the RPM, $1,000.00 cost to fix poss damage. Every school is different, read the fine print.   
  
They require a credit card with a $5,000.00 limit to place a hold, to cover any poss. damages. By the way the damages will be revealed within two weeks, not after your drive. This includes excessive tire wear. Be VERY CAREFUL.  
  
They will fee the shit out of you. They wanted 8 different fees, each at $25.00.   
  
They will have a "serpa" drive with you. You are expected to tip this person 20% of the total package , before any discounts. So if the regular package cost $700.00, expect to "tip" $140.00.  
  
Sounded like a lot of fun when I was gifted the drive, however after reading all the fine print, was not a deal.   
  
After all who wants to pay over $600.00 to drive a Ferrari at the speed of a parade.

I had a gift certificate for one these , exotic car drive. Be very careful of the fine print. Some of the items I remember:  
  
Can not rev over 6000 rpm . You will need to granny shift. If you do exceed the RPM, $1,000.00 cost to fix poss damage. Every school is different, read the fine print.   
  
They require a credit card with a $5,000.00 limit to place a hold, to cover any poss. damages. By the way the damages will be revealed within two weeks, not after your drive. This includes excessive tire wear. Be VERY CAREFUL.  
  
They will fee the shit out of you. They wanted 8 different fees, each at $25.00.   
  
They will have a "serpa" drive with you. You are expected to tip this person 20% of the total package , before any discounts. So if the regular package cost $700.00, expect to "tip" $140.00.  
  
Sounded like a lot of fun when I was gifted the drive, however after reading all the fine print, was not a deal.   
  
After all who wants to pay over $600.00 to drive a Ferrari at the speed of a parade.  
  
And some of those cars can kill a set of tires in one tank of fuel or less if driven really hard. The new viper is that way. The tires where purposely designed that way one tank of fuel and one set of tires when driven on the edge. Which actually is pretty good. With the cost of some of the tires on these cars id definitely read the fine print.You could eat up that 5,000 real quick just in tires. I'm with sgeti who wants to shift one of these cars at 6000 rpm? If I'm going to pay that kind of money to drive one of those cars I want to drive it like it was intended.

I had a gift certificate for one these , exotic car drive. Be very careful of the fine print. Some of the items I remember:  
  
Can not rev over 6000 rpm . You will need to granny shift. If you do exceed the RPM, $1,000.00 cost to fix poss damage. Every school is different, read the fine print.   
  
They require a credit card with a $5,000.00 limit to place a hold, to cover any poss. damages. By the way the damages will be revealed within two weeks, not after your drive. This includes excessive tire wear. Be VERY CAREFUL.  
  
They will fee the shit out of you. They wanted 8 different fees, each at $25.00.   
  
They will have a "serpa" drive with you. You are expected to tip this person 20% of the total package , before any discounts. So if the regular package cost $700.00, expect to "tip" $140.00.  
  
Sounded like a lot of fun when I was gifted the drive, however after reading all the fine print, was not a deal.   
  
After all who wants to pay over $600.00 to drive a Ferrari at the speed of a parade.  
  
And some of those cars can kill a set of tires in one tank of fuel or less if driven really hard. The new viper is that way. The tires where purposely designed that way one tank of fuel and one set of tires when driven on the edge. Which actually is pretty good. With the cost of some of the tires on these cars id definitely read the fine print.You could eat up that 5,000 real quick just in tires. I'm with sgeti who wants to shift one of these cars at 6000 rpm? If I'm going to pay that kind of money to drive one of those cars I want to drive it like it was intended.  
  
Cool. Thanks! I was a little skeptical, because it sounded good and I was stoked, but then after watching a few videos, I noticed that a lot of the people just didn't see like car/racing enthusiast. They just seemed like people that wanted to drive a nice exotic car. The other schools I looked at, you could tell right of the bat that the people in that class were gear head and racing enthusiast. IDK, that seemed telling to me.   
  
Thanks again.

Haiden... Fellow V2 wheel users... Did any 1 else Notice that the New Fanatec FW 176 beefed up the power of the V2??? It definitly has i used to use on wheel FFB at 75 but with the New FW i use 65.   
  
I Noticed there is More feel in center of wheel...Ex:the up Hill off camber corner at Watkins i can feel it even more when im at the apex of the Hill as the weight shifts.... Laguna Seca the up Hill into the Down Hill Left Right also feels More Detailed as far as feeling the Car weight shift...Sooo Far No complaints about the FW. its definitly stronger with a Better More accurate wheel center feel...Nice.... I even Reset My Global settings and Recalibrated My wheel to confirm these findings... because we all know some times PCars settings just get outta wack No Rhyme or Reason.  
  
The extra power the New FW added didnt show its self right away while Driving My usual Gt3 Ruf, it just felt like the wheel center was tighter and more Precise...I Really Noticed the FFB was Stronger driving the Classic Mustang... that car is Really Wild with alot of Body Roll and Sway... The weight Shift feel was soo Much stronger and more pronounced that i had a problem keeping it on the Track... Not a Bad thing i just Noticed it took more muscle to turn the wheel than i was used to using... i reduced the on wheel FFB to 65 and the FFB strength is back to Norm just with a tighter more precise wheel center...   
  
When i say tighter wheel center i dont mean it like its Hyper sensitive, Twitchy or Unstable in any way...I Mean it in a Good way that you have more feel and better control.

Haiden/Grimey,  
About the dd wheels for consoles. Remember according to sms the game is exactly the same on pc as it is on console except for graphical and obviously things like car count because of memory usage on consoles. So unless youre talking a high end dd wheel like accuforce that needs the pc it should be exactly the same on console. As long as the wheel is slightly stronger than what we have now and doesn't have belts or gears I don't see how it could possibly be bad. I would guess just losing the drivetrain would let you feel a lot more. No matter what you do when the motor changes direction there is going to be some wrap up in the drivetrain which equals lost detail. I guess we will find out for sure in the next few months.lol

at this Rate when the Final V2 FW is Released its Looking Less Likely that i will be Rushing to get the TM DD wheel... I Know that DD wheels are supposed to be better but from what i feel with the V2 its hard to imagine Simulated FFB getting Much Better than it is espescially on Console.  
  
Also when i installed the Drivers to my PC i checked the Signature... i think Fanatec may have a New company doing the wheel FW... Just a Random observation... But in any event it feels Good.  
  
Edit: The TM wheel would have to get Raving reviews for Me to Rush to get it... at this point if it gets any better i may end up unemployed and Divorced!!!...Its getting Harder and Harder to Get Me outta My Man Kave...LOL!!!  
  
With the Fanatec wheels as long as your belts are tight and Not Slipping the Loss of of detail seems to be Very Little... I have Not had to tighten my V2 belts yet but i know how... i had to tighten and adjust them on My CSR Elite its Not hard at all.

at this Rate when the Final V2 FW is Released its Looking Less Likely that i will be Rushing to get the TM DD wheel... I Know that DD wheels are supposed to be better but from what i feel with the V2 its hard to imagine Simulated FFB getting Much Better than it is espescially on Console.  
  
Also when i installed the Drivers to my PC i checked the Signature... i think Fanatec may have a New company doing the wheel FW... Just a Random observation... But in any even it feels Good.  
  
Thrustmaster?lmao But in all seriousness id love to see a side by side comparison that is unbiased between our two wheels. Tell me what you cant feel. One by somebody on here would be believable. Not by one of the sim forums that get their stuff for free. They aren't going to ever say something sucks or some of the forces aren't there.

Thrustmaster?lmao But in all seriousness id love to see a side by side comparison that is unbiased between our two wheels. Tell me what you cant feel. One by somebody on here would be believable. Not by one of the sim forums that get their stuff for free. They aren't going to ever say something sucks or some of the forces aren't there.  
  
I can do that with The V2 and TM 458 on XB1... The last i compared they were Close just the V2 had Stronger More pronounced Feel...The V2 is Mostly Metal and Carries more Vibration/FFB feel... The TM has alot of Plastic which can absorb and Mute Vibration/Subtle FFB feel.  
  
I need another Rig its just too Much work to swao wheel and pedals out constantly to test.  
  
as it was before i always thought that TM had better Wheel FW... Thats the soul of any FFB wheel. without Good FW a Great wheel will Suck... But Fanatec has caught up and is on or above par with TM FW Now... I havent updated My TX in a bit so i dont know how the New TM FW Feels.  
  
I too Laugh when i say Thrustmaster!!!... the Wife thinks its Show Time when i say that... LOL