Dorothy Wright Liebes

**Dorothy Wright Liebes** (14 Oktoobar 1897 – 20 Suwee 1972) ko Ameriknaajo diisneteeɗo e mbaylaandi, ganndiraaɗo mbaydiiji kesi, diisnondirɗi e mbaydiiji kesi ngam mahooɓe e diisnondirooɓe nder galleeji. O anndiranoo ko "yumma njuɓɓudi jamaanu"..

## '''Nguurndam adanɗam'''
Dorothy Wright jibinaa ko ñalnde 14 oktoobar 1897 to Santa Rosa, Kaliforni, o woni ɓiy Frederick L. Wright, jannginoowo kemikal, e Bessie Calderwood Wright, jannginoowo.[3] Nde o janngata ganndal anthropologie, naalankaagal, e jannginde to duɗal jaaɓi haaɗtirde jannginooɓe to San Jose (jooni ko duɗal jaaɓi haaɗtirde San Jose State) e to duɗal jaaɓi haaɗtirde California, to Berkeley, o woniino janngoowo Anne Swainson, o wasiyii jarribaade diisnondiral mbaylaandi. O soodi loomre portaabe tokosere, o janngini hoore makko no njuumri.

E hitaande 1928, o resi Leon Liebes, jom njulaagu. Ɓe ceerti ko e hitaande 1940, hay so tawii Dorothy Liebes ina jokki e innde mum to bannge golle. E hitaande 1948 o resi jaayndiyanke keɓɗo njeenaari Pulitzer, biyeteeɗo Relman Morin.

## '''Kugal'''

**1934 Koɗorɗe Gilbert Rohde** ɓuuɓnaaɗe e mbaydi Liebes

Caggal duuɓi keewɗi e nder duɗal, Liebes felliti wonde diisneteeɗo e mbaydiiji, o janngi mbaydi mbaylaandi to Hull House, to Chicago, o waɗi kadi yah-ngartaa janngude to Farayse, Itali, Guatemala, e Meksik ngam janngude mbaydiiji mbaylaandi gaadanteeji. She bought a small portable loom and taught herself how to weave. Caggal nde o golli caggal leydi, Liebes arti to Amerik, o udditi suudu makko e innde mum to San Francisco. Suudu makko gadano, udditaama to 526 Powell Street to San Francisco e hitaande 1930, ko o keeriiɗo e geɗe juuɗe ngam mahooɓe e diisnondirooɓe nder. By 1938 she had seventeen men and women working in her studio. In 1942, Liebes moved her studio in San Francisco to 545 Sutter Street. Following demand, she opened a second studio in New York. She relocated full-time to New York City in 1948. E hitaande 1935, Liebes hawri e mahoowo Frank Lloyd Wright to Taliesin to Spring Green, Wiskonsin. Wright ina joginoo semmbe e filosofi mum diisnondiral.[5] Dorothy Liebes Design, Inc. udditaama e hitaande 1937, hay so tawii gorko mum ina salii, to San Fransisko.[6] E hitaande 1938 o dañii worɓe e rewɓe sappo e jeeɗiɗo gollotooɓe e nder suudu makko.[6] E hitaande 1942, Liebes ummini suudu mum to San Fransisko to 545 laawol Sutter.[5] Caggal nde o naamndii, o udditi suudu ɗiɗaɓuru to New York.[3] O ummiima e wuro New York e hitaande 1948.[1][7]

Ɗemɗe makko ina nganndiraa e mbaydiiji mum en cemmbinɗi e mbaydiiji mum en belɗi, ina keewi huutoraade geɗe ɗe o sikkaano ko wayi no ƴiye, palastik, njamndi, jute, ticker tape, strips leɗɗe, e bamɗi.[1][7] Ɓe njamiraa ko mahooɓe, ina jeyaa heen Frank Lloyd Wright, Edward Durell Stone, Miller e Pflueger e Samuel Marx.[1][8] Sosiyateeji goɗɗi ina njeyaa heen laamɗo Ibnu Sawuud mo Arabi Sawdit, otel Ahwahnee to Yosemite, e suudu pijirlooji Paramount to Oakland, Kaliforni. Textiles makko ina kuutoree kadi e nder laanaaji diwooje, e nder laanaaji geec, e nder pijirlooji e nder oteluuji.[2]

Gagga wolde adunaare ɗiɗmere ko sahaa teeŋtuɗo wonande Liebes e sosiyetee mum. Kaɓirɗe sintetik peewnaaɗe e kuutoragol e nder hare ndee, ndeen mbaɗtaa ngam huutoraade e nder galleeji. Haa teeŋti noon e aluminium, ina waɗi nafoore mawnde e peewnoowo mbaylaandi. Liebes ina weltii, ina teskini e ɗeen baawɗe, haa teeŋti noon e laabi kesi ɗi mbaawi golloreede e huutoreede. O meeɗii teskaade e nder yeewtere makko ngam diisnondirde e almudɓe to Chicago, “Miijo-ɗee sellofanuuji jalbooji, asetaatuuji ɓutti, pilastikuuji lakketeeɗi, leɗɗe cafrorteeɗe, ƴiye pucci artificielle, geɗe ɗe mbaylaaka e ƴiye gilaas!” Dorothy Liebes ina heewi wiyeede ko huunde himmunde e dille Kaliforni Modernist, e nder kitaale 1940 e 1950 o jeyaa ko e diisnondirooɓe mbaylaandi ɓurɓe anndeede e nder leyɗeele dentuɗe Amerik. E ko feewti e palet neutral mo heewɓe e yontaaji makko modernist en mbaɗi, Liebes ina anndaa no feewi e kuutoragol geɗe ɗe o sikkaano, colour vibrant e pattern. O joginoo ko yiɗde hawrude e kalaaji ɗi nanndaani e mbaadiiji jokkondirɗi, belɗi yiyde. Liebes ina anndira innirde kala « elixir magic » e mbaydiiji mum ina ceerti e mbaydiiji mum en keewɗi ɓuuɓɗi. O sinci ɗum “Look Kaliforni”, ko yaawi noddiraa “Look Liebes”.[10]

Dorothy Liebes ko weeyoowo baawɗo, kono kadi ko o jom njulaagu tiiɗɗo, mo o miijinoo wonde mbaydiiji peewnaaɗi e keewal ina mbaawi yettaade yimɓe ɓurɓe yaajde, tawa kadi ko e bidsee kiliyaneeɓe. Nde o woni e jogaade mbaadi juuɗe, Liebes golliima ngam tafde mbaydi mbaylaandi doole e nder mbaydiiji e kaɓirɗe keewɗe ceertuɗe. Wonaa tan mbaydiiji makko ina keɓee, kono o waɗii gollodiiɗo doole ngam gollorɗe.[11]

Liebes wonnoo ko jiiloowo diisnondirɗo e sosiyeteeji bayɗi no DuPont, Dow, Bigelow-Sanford, e Goodall Fabrics mo Sanford, Maine.[3] Ko o daraniiɗo peewnugol mbaydiiji keewɗi, o wasiyiima e ƴellitgol fiɓnde sintetik, o wallitorii e ƴellitgol masiŋaaji baawɗi ƴellitde ŋakkeende estetik e ŋakkeende mbaydiiji mbaylaandi e juuɗe.[3][7] Tuggi 1955 haa 1971 Liebes wonnoo ko jiiloowo DuPont to bannge mobelaaji galleeji. Ko o kaalirde sosiyetee oo, o walli yimɓe fof e foolde caɗeele e mbaydiiji sintetik.[12]

Liebes ina anndaa sabu mum naatde e porogaraamuuji karallaagal safaara wonande veteran’en wolde adunaare ɗiɗmere e nder Amerik kala. E hitaande 1942, o toɗɗaa gardiiɗo ngenndi, fedde naalankaagal e karallaagal, Croix-Rouge Ameriknaajo.[5]

Tuggi 1961 haa 1972, naalanke mawɗo biyeteeɗo Emma Amos golliima e Dorothy Liebes, diisneteeɗo/weewoowo.

## '''Njeenaaje'''
Dorothy Liebes jeyaa ko e heɓooɓe njeenaari Neiman Marcus Fashion Award e udditgol maɓɓe e hitaande 1938. E hitaande 1946, gooto e diidi makko cuɓaama ɓurndi moƴƴude e mbaydiiji mbaylaandi e nder Duɗal Ameriknaare Dekoraasiyoŋ[13] Hitaande rewtunde ndee, 1947, o heɓi njeenaari karallaagal Medaal ummoraade e Duɗal Ameriknaare Architects.[7] O heɓi kadi njeenaaje e njeenaaje ummoraade e Lord & Taylor, e Exposition Paris, e Ligue Architectural.[3] E hitaande 1948, o heɓi dipolomaaji tedduɗi to duɗal jaaɓi haaɗtirde Mills e njeenaari Elsie de Wolfe.[3][14] E hitaande 1970 Liebes heɓi njeenaari kaŋŋe to Fedde Ameriknaare ngam golle karallaagal timmungal.[15]

## '''Wade'''
Sabu rafi ɓernde, Dorothy Liebes woppi golle mum e hitaande 1971.[3] O maayi ko to wuro New York ñalnde 20 suwee 1972.

## '''Njawdi'''
Golle makko ina njooɗii e nder defterdu Cooper-Hewitt, suudu defte ngenndiije,[16] suudu defte Victoria e Albert,[17] suudu naalankaagal to Chicago, suudu defte naalankaagal Amerik to duɗal Smithsonian, e suudu naalankaagal Phoebe A. Hearst Anthropologie to duɗal jaaɓi haaɗtirde Kaliforni, Berkeley.

E hitaande 2023, Cooper Hewitt waɗii ƴeewndo golle Liebes, tiitoonde mum ko Niɓɓere, Annoore, Jaaynde: Peeje Dorothy Liebes.[18] Koolol ngol heɓi njeenaari 2022 ngam ƴellitaare e kesam-hesamaagu ummoraade e Decorative Arts Trust.[19]

## '''Tuugnorgal'''