Set-up under a natural wave
Publisher: Naval Postgraduate School; Available from National Technical Information Service
Published: 1997
Place of publication: Monterey, Calif; Springfield, Va
Language: eng
Number of pages: 40
Subjects: SURF; BREAKWATERS; PRESSURE TRANSDUCERS
Description: Field measurements from a cross shore array of two pressure sensors to measure waves and eight manometer tubes to measure mean water elevation are used to examine set-down/up across the surf zone. The manometer tubes are connected to differential pressure transducers onshore allowing continuous set- down/up measurements. Flume measurements of set-down/up are also examined. Measured values are compared with numeric set-up values incorporating roller theory describing wave breaking. The model has two free parameters, B representing the vertical fraction of the wave covered by the roller and psi a scaling parameter for wave steepness. Optimal values of both are chosen by model fitting. Inclusion of the surface roller improves the set-up model fit to both beach and flume measurements.
Notes: Thesis advisor, Edward B. Thornton.

AD-A331 932.

Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography)--Naval Postgraduate School, March 1997.

Includes bibliographical references (p. 37-39).