Surf science
Subtitle: an introduction to waves for surfing
By: Tony Butt
Edition: Third edition.
Publisher: University of Hawaii Press
Published: 2014
Language: eng
Number of pages: 136
ISBN-13: 9780824839543; 9780906720899
Subjects: Wave-motion, Theory of; Ocean waves; Surfing
Description: Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don't, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
Notes: Includes bibliographical references (pages 128-129) and index.
Table of contents: title: Large-scale air movements; title: Formation of a depression; title: Growth of waves on the ocean; title: Propagation of free-travelling swell; title: Waves in shallow water; title: Wave-breaking; title: The temperature of the water; title: Local winds on the coast; title: The tides; title: Rips; title: Forecasting 1: the basics; title: Forecasting 2: inside the black box; title: Forecasting 3: surfing in the storm.