Barbarian days
Subtitle: a surfing life
By: William Finnegan
Contributors: Thorndike Press
Edition: Large print edition.
Published: 2016
Language: eng
Number of pages: 707
ISBN-13: 9781410485892
Copyright date: 2015
Subjects: Large type books; Biography; Surfers
Description: Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.
Table of contents: title: Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67); title: Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65); title: The shock of the new (California, 1968); title: 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971); title: The search (The South Pacific, 1978); title: The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79); title: Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81); title: Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86); title: Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003); title: The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15).