Observed directional spectra of shoaling and breaking waves
By: Matthew I. Borbash
Publisher: Naval Postgraduate School; Available from National Technical Information Service
Published: 1998
Place of publication: Monterey, Calif; Springfield, Va
Language: eng
Number of pages: 35
Description: The evolution of the frequency-directional wave spectrum, E(f,theta), across the inner continental shelf and      beach was examined with measurements collected at the U.S. Army Corps of Engineer's Field Research      Facility during the recent SandyDuck experiment. Arrays of bottom pressure sensors were deployed on the      shelf in 20 m depth and on the beach in depths ranging from 2 - 5 m. These arrays were complemented by a      directional wave buoy in 20 m depth and an array of pressure sensors in 8 m depth maintained by the U.S.      Army Corps of Engineers. A preliminary analysis of these data is presented here focused on four case studies      that illustrate the observed wave shoaling evolution in both non-breaking and breaking conditions. Estimates      of E(f,theta) extracted from array cross-spectra at six cross-shore locations are compared to predictions of      linear refraction theory. The present observations support conclusions from previous studies that the      cross-shore evolution of dominant wave propagation direction is well described by linear refraction theory.      Observations of harmonic peak development at directions aligned with the dominant waves are consistent      with theoretical wave-wave interaction rules and previous observations. In both non-breaking and breaking      conditions, the observed E(f, theta) are directionally broader than predicted. In contrast to previous      observations on a barred beach, the present observations on a planar beach do not show a dramatic      broadening of directional wave spectra in the surf zone.
Notes: "June 1998."

Thesis advisor(s): T.H.C. Herbers.

Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography) Naval Postgraduate School, June 1998.

Includes bibliographical references (p. 33).

"Approved for public release, distribution unlimited"--Cover.

Also available online.

Mode of access: World Wide Web.

System requirements: Adobe Acrobat reader.

US Navy (USN) author.

dk/dk cc:9116 9/2/98.