Andamarcan textiles
Subtitle: an elite Inca weaving tradition from Peru found on the ancient lands of Haciendas Sinsicapa (San Ignacio) and Tulpo
By: Joseph H. Fabish and Alan A. Colville
Publisher: Huamachuco Textile Press
Published: 2021
Place of publication: Claremont, California
Language: eng
Number of pages: 361
ISBN-13: 9780578714059
Copyright date: 2012
Subjects: Textile industry; History; Ancient Textile fabrics; Weaving; Social life and customs; Antiquities; Manners and customs
Description: "Distinct from all textiles in South America, with brilliant colors, varied motifs and patterns, and fine weaving, the textiles woven in and around the ancient lands of Andamarca located in the Huamachuco region of northern Peru represent an unbroken elite weaving tradition directly descended from the Incas.This remote area of the Andean highlands was designated by the Incas as a royal elite weaving community. Miraculously, its weaving traditions survived through the Spanish Colonial period to the present. Indeed, waistbands still woven today and referred to locally as "sara" belts are identical in pattern and colors found in a weaving code for a waist or head band described in a 16th Century Spanish Chronicle written by Martin de Murúa. Our interpretation is that this was made for the sole use of the Inca Queen, the Coya, and/or closely related princesses.Using ethnographic data collected through interviews with the indigenous population, blankets, waistbands, and to a lesser extent other cultural and ritualistic objects, are described and analyzed. A detailed, novel, and rigorous symmetry analysis is used to identify characteristics, patterns, evolution, references, style, motifs, and age." --
Notes: Includes bibliographical references and index.
Table of contents: title: Part I: Huamachuco; title: Recollections; title: A glimpse of daily life around the Pueblos; title: A brief history of Peru related to Andamarcan textiles; title: Daily dress and other textiles from the Pueblos; title: Concluding remarks; title: Part II: Martin de murua’s Cara Chumbi Diadem of the Inca Queen and royal robes of state of the Inca Empire; title: Introduction; title: The Murua Chronicle; title: The Coya and Inca ruler’s participation during important events; title: The Coya(s); title: The Inca calendar; title: Motifs in elite Inca garments and Andamarcan textiles; title: Cara textiles and motifs; title: The complexity of industry under the Incas; title: De Murua’s ninth chapter: “Del Taje y Vestido que Traian Ias Nustas”; title: The definition of Chumbi during the sixteenth century; title: The motif, colors, and design of the Cara Chumbi; title: Part III: The blankets: The history and evolution of twentieth century Andamarcan Mantles; title: Blankets during the 1920s; title: Blankets during the 1930s; title: Blankets during the 1940s; title: Pictorial blankets during the 1940s; title: Punto Cruz blankets during the 1940s; title: Blankets during the 1950s; title: Huamachuco tapestry during the 1950s and thereafter; title: Blankets during the 1960s; title: Blankets during the 1970s; title: Blankets during the 1980s; title: Agrarian land reform and the Sendero Luminoso; title: Weavers during the 1980s; title: Problems evident in modern Andamarcan blankets; title: Quengo en Clavel and Carita motifs during the 1980s; title: Blankets during the 1990s; title: Blankets from 2000 through 2006; title: Part IV: Symmetry analysis of Andamarcan blankets and waistbands; title: Symmetry applied to color variation in Andamarcan blankets; title: Symmetry, patterns and evolution of Andamarcan waistbands from Inca times to the present; title: Literature cited.