Fashion and orientalism
Subtitle: dress, textiles and culture from the 17th to the 21st century
By: Adam Geczy
Publisher: Bloomsbury Academic
Published: 2013
Place of publication: London; New York
Language: eng
Number of pages: 255
ISBN-13: 9781847886002; 9781847885999
Subjects: Fashion; Clothing and dress; Psychological aspects; Social aspects; Orientalism; History
Description: "Orientalism is a central factor within the fashion system, both subtle and overt. In this timely and groundbreaking book, the author shows the extent of the influence that the Orient had, and continues to have, on fashion. Our concept of Western fashion is unthinkable without it, whether in terms of the growth of the cotton industry or of garments we take for granted, such as the dressing gown. From pre-modern to contemporary times, this book demonstrates that, in the realms of fashion, the Orient is not simply a construction or a fascination of the imperial West with its eastern-other. Rather, it reveals the extent of cross-pollination, exchange and multiple translation that has taken place between East and West over the last 500 years. Exploring topics including Chinoiserie, masquerade, bohemianism, Japonisme, the 'de-Orientalization' of the Orient, perfume and the birth of couture, Fashion and Orientalism is an essential read for students and scholars of fashion, cultural studies and history"--Back cover.
Notes: Includes bibliographical references (pages 227-240) and index.
Table of contents: title: 1. Early orientalism and the barbaresque : Luxury textiles and the beginnings of the silk trade; title: Venice; title: Textiles in Western Europe; title: Cotton and chintz; title: Charles II and the origins of the vest; title: Chinoiserie and orientalism in Louis XIV's France; title: Lachinage and the visit of the Siamese; title: Ambassadors in France; title: 2. 1690-1815: Chinoiserie, Indiennerie, Turquerie and Egyptomania : Textiles; title: Banyans and fans; title: Chinoisserie design and art; title: Masquerade; title: Theatre and music; title: Institutionalizing Turquerie; title: Mary Montagu and the special case of masquerade; title: Late-eighteenth century and the revolution; title: Egyptomania; title: Military costume and weaponry; title: 3. 1815-1871: Turkophilia, Afromania and the Indes : Bohemianism; title: Travellers, adventurers and exiles; title: Cashmere shawls; title: Paisley; title: British orientalism textiles and design after 1851; title: Arthur Lazenby Liberty; title: Other women's fashions before couture; title: 4. 1868-1944: The Japoniste revolution, the deorientalizing of the Orient and the birth of couture : Japonism and the kimono; title: Deorientalizing Japan; title: Deorientalizing Turkey; title: Couture, art and costume: from Poiret to the Ballets Russes; title: Paquin; title: Fortuny; title: The interwar years: the Orient in early film; title: 5. 1944-2011: Postwar revivalism and transorientalism : Hippies and counterculture in the 1960s and 1970s; title: Perfume; title: The new Japanese revolution in French couture; title: Postmodern and contemporary couture; title: Reorienting and self-orientalizing the Orient; title: The burqa wars; title: Conclusion : The revenge of China.