Okay, so we're assuming now that these have come back from the the clinic they've been tried in and they're okay. I'm just putting some finishing touches to the wax work here your brood there it's been with the brood there it's been scratched or marked during transit or during the trying. The next thing we need to consider then is the the post dam line and go to the post dam in this is the extent of the denture as it stands at the moment and when you lift it off you can see where the old denture asks it's left to an indentation in the palette. I'm just drawing it on it oh you wouldn't normally do this it's just to show you where where the old one is. So this one's come back and it wants the post dam to match the old denture so this is a little chisel type tool I think it's called a mid-jewelst ten and that's used just to carve the post dam in and the post dam is deep at the posterior and it tapers off into the palette. That's quite hard to see there isn't it but yeah let's just you can see it a little bit here you can see the shape of the chisel it follows that shape of the chisel so it's deep at the back and then tapers into the palette and that's going to create the seal across the back of the denture and we bring the post dam right up around the back of the tuberosity there and down into the buckle sawcars just lightly down into the buckle sawcars and then that's repeated all the way up to the other side of the denture so the dentures now sealed all the way around onto the model to stop any plastic getting on onto it this is now the first process in making a mold of the denture so hot waxing half small amount of wax seal all the way around the denture onto the model saying with the lower denture and then we remove the model from the articulating base the gentle tap to the plaster knife and that was the purpose here that was the purpose of the chamfering then so we can take the model out and reposition it yeah it got to be gentle because that the articulating plaster white plaster used as well as soft doesn't it so it's easy to destroy thing oh a flask flask yes so this is what we're going to use to make the mold that's why we had to move it from the articulating base because these flasks are only a certain height so we weren't able to fit them in have you Vaseline those I have put a smear of Vaseline on the mating surfaces of them so and on the outside so that plastic comes off easier later so we're making the first half of the mold then just normal plaster of Paris in the shallow half of the mold and we're going to use this to secure the model into this this half of the mold so the model's been soaking in some water you're going to wait until the bubbles stop open wait until the bubbles stop yet otherwise it's the bubbles can come out and into your plaster and also the models would drive the plaster out too quickly as well doesn't stick so we pop those in and let the plaster set a little and then what we're doing is cutting the plaster between the model and the edge of the flask and we're aiming to create a mold that has no undercuts so that when we make the second half we'll be able to remove one from the other without causing any damage yeah and you should be making the slope from the periphery of the dental model to the edge of the flask to the inside of the flask shouldn't you yeah because it's easy with a knife just to drag it round and create a nice and line like but then the flask won't shut properly yeah you need to keep the mating surfaces clean so they'll go all the way together okay same with the lower just cleaning the edges of the flask again and then once it's firmed up a little bit you can run it under the tap and just smooth the plaster off clean any excess off the flask now you've got to be careful here I mean because it's very easy to sort of run your finger through the plaster disappears if you're not careful but okay so you can see there we've got a nice smooth section of plaster there's no undercuts that might be a little bit of the heel of that one actually that's what you come up we'll see what happens there and then once it's set we allow it to dry and let it set and then we've we've put a real thin smear of Vaseline on the plaster surfaces and that's going to stop the second half of the mold sticking it's very important not to forget that yeah and when I was learning I forget it quite a lot and it's go go do it again time so we fill the deep half of the mold there and then we put some plaster into all the fine surface detail of the denture now you're using a different plaster yeah this is a mix of after this time so the plaster is going to be a lot tougher we use the tough plaster because when we pack the denture we put the the mold under a lot of load and this is going to this part of the the mold will be under a lot of load and in the other half of the denture one that we've just done it'll be the model that's underload and that's already made out of tough plaster and just needs securing in place now this is the tricky bit isn't it and to make sure you got no air on the teeth that's right otherwise you end up with a denture with lots of little lumps and bumps all over it and straighten it over line up the looks on the flask press it so it's completely together and then we just leave it to bench set we don't touch it you don't want the plaster moving around so that plaster now then we've gone to all the fine surface detail of the denture recorded that set around the teeth and we've then put it in boiling water just to soften the wax and then we can open the two parts of the mold up like this and then the base plate can be removed along with the no wax but it should hold on to all the teeth that plaster's around all the teeth and will secure them in so you can see there's still some bits of wax left in there and what we'll do is just drop it in some boiling water and get rid of the the rest of that until the mold's nice and clean some labs have a special machine for this called a boiling out machine don't they which is a bit like a dishwasher the um but it smells a bit more and it's just a spray arm of boiling water that you just drop your flask into and this is sodium alginate which is derived from seaweed I believe and it reacts with the calcium sulfate in the plaster and forms like a skin doesn't it so how many layers are using just one just one yet so we coat all the plaster surfaces with this and it's going to stop the acrylic sticking to the plaster we avoid getting it in pools around the teeth and so on you can see the teeth stuck into the plaster there and then once that's dried we can mix up some acrylic dough and it's a monomer and polymer mix polymer mix together and you'll probably know that it goes through all this stage is it sandy and stringy and whatever and this is the dough mixed up you can see it's still quite stringy here so I'm going to put it back in the pot and this is it once it gets correct stage it snaps from there we go there you go perfect so once it's reached this stage we can then use it to pack the denture so very clean hands at this stage you need to wash your hands so you don't get bits and pieces in the acrylic dough it's a vein acrylic at it's yeah so that's into the upper denture so it's right over the palate a small amount of excess in there and then we're going to put the two halves together same with the lower just in a horseshoe shape on the lower this is all pre-measured for you isn't it you know how much you need for an upper level it's all done for you and then highly technical we put in a big press as we give them a good squeeze and wait it's important not to just jam them down then go that's it um you've got to wait and the excess um polymer dough will come out of the gaps in the flask and it does take a few minutes doesn't it we call it flash and it's that flash which you can hold the two halves of the mold apart very slightly and that gives rise to the increasing vertical dimension of the denture so we can never get rid of that completely with this method of making dentures um there are other methods of converting wax dentures into acrylic dentures which do avoid the increasing vertical dimension but this is the most popular method these is now these are now being put into a clamp then which keeps them under pressure and then they're going to go into a curing bath so this is a container full of water and it's going to go through a cycle of warming them up until they get to about 100 degrees and then they'll hold them at 100 degrees for a couple of hours the whole process takes about five or six hours it's all automated and then they'll be ready for knocking out of the molds in their acrylic state okay job done