modes on most digital cameras are, matrix or ESP, centa-weighted and spot. Matrix is probably the most used, but not so dependable or accurate for scenes of high contrast. Outer preference, I spot meter most of my images. This is not essential unless the composition has a high dynamic range and HDR is not an option. I can only recommend using spot meter for mirrorless cameras having an electronic finder, not optical. This is because the spot meter area is very precise and unforgiving if metered inaccurately. The electronic finder receives a visual preview from the camera's computer making selection easier. Optical finders do not have this facility unless live view can be used on the camera's screen. In the absence of an electronic finder and live view, try centa-weighted if using an optical finder. It is spot plus, that is, it's still spot meters a specific point, but takes into consideration a percentage of the neighbouring area. I used it frequently before upgrading to a mirrorless camera. Matrix metering is easily fooled if the composition has a high dynamic range with a predominance of shadow and highlight causing over or under exposure and sometimes both. A plastic case is a dark interior of a church with a much brighter window and whilst the human eye can accept the wide dynamic range, a camera as yet without intervention by the photographer cannot. Some post-production is required, but spot metering gives the photographer greater control than matrix for controlling highlights and shadows. HDR is of course an alternative if conditions permit. The camera usually spot meters from the centre of the screen, but this can be changed. I prefer centre because I can lock exposure by half-depressing the shutter button before changing viewpoint if it is required. In the absence of this useful yet simple facility, depress AEL button to lock exposure. I will use a church interior as an example, but this technique works just as well for landscapes such as sunlight filtering through trees. Remember, I am only talking about a composition with a high dynamic range. The fact that I spot meter everything is only my preference. Yours could be different. I spot meter towards a highlight with the aid of an electronic finder. How do I know where to meet a from? Answer? Experience. Sorry, but it takes practice. Forget numbers and graphs. I rely on my eyes and that private world between my ears for the right answer. Having found the right place to meet, if it isn't the desired composition, I first lock exposure by half-depressing the shutter button before moving the camera to the required composition and then take the picture by fully depressing the button. Do not release pressure on the shutter button whilst moving the camera and before taking the picture. Otherwise, the spot meter point is lost. Use manual focusing, not autofocus, if focusing point is different to spot metering as they are usually the same. I prefer to meet a near a highlight, but not the brightest part. Shadows are easier to correct in post-production than highlights, but this is not the hoped for perfect answer. Lightening shadows can add noise, but there are dedicated software programs available on the market to correct this. Overexposed highlights and burnt out areas are almost impossible to correct without cloning from other areas. See detailed instruction about post-production on my YouTube channel. For now, here are the settings I used for this photograph.