Hey guys, Shikonley from HowToRinch.com. In today's video, I'm going to show you how to replace a broken fuel inlet or just one that's damaged like in the case of ours. Just from old age, the plastic was starting to crack. It wasn't even all the way broke, but definitely wanted to prevent problems for the future. You get this old plastic, you know, you've taken it on and off enough, it's going to crack or fatigue. So, not only are I going to tell you the resource of where to find it, do you have any specialties or friends over there? You guys might know them as parts of them, as a replacement fuel inlet nipple. I'd be challenging for some people to put off if you haven't got with interference fits before, you know, especially for this carburetor because we have, it has to be a certain angle too, so that we can clear things to put the fuel line on and the air cleaner and then this come off out. Let's get started and I'll show you the footage I took while I replaced that. First off, as you can see, this one's pretty cracked up, actually all around the body here. Now, it wasn't leaking, to be honest here, but it's only going to get worse. And especially you think about taking that fuel line on and off, when I pushed this around, I was able to get those lines to flex, which means that, you know, even with enough vibration or anything, it could ultimately fail. So we're just going to go ahead and make it right now before there's any problems. Well, the first thing we want to do though, as we need to, since this is not a swivel mount, we need to come up with some type of relationship of where this sits as it was, you know, delivered you from the customer. You could see it's not straight up and down. If I put that straight up and down, I'm going to have some air filter problems. I'm going to take a measurement and get some reference lines here of where I want to install this. As you compare the new ones, they're exactly the same height. Let's do that now. So as you can see, I just take up a near caliper and a straight edge and come up with a measurement. Then just take a pair of pliers and break that plastic off. You can see that plastic there. It's pretty brittle. I mean, when it gets that old and discolored like that, where we couldn't see is that it was cracking all around here. And it just sometimes got a trust in mechanic on trying to avoid future problems. A fuel leak that would just start dripping would be, you know, quite a hazard there. So like I said, anytime we can go ahead and improve this for a little amount of money, that's a great idea. So now the next thing, this guy's going to be in here pretty good. So we want to go ahead and think about how we're going to get that out of there. I'm going to take my index set and step it up and just slowly get this out of here. And what that'll do is it'll help me not put any stress on this boss here on the carburetor. I attempted real lightly to try and see if this would move at all. And it doesn't want to had a really good tight fit. So we're going to go ahead and just slowly step that out of there. So we can get it ready to take this one here. So let's do it. All right, as you'll see, I go through about three different drill bits to step that up to size. The other thing I can't stress enough is to use a lube to just take your time with this. Just walk it up. Keep that drill real nice and straight too. If you get crooked and bore that crooked, you're going to hurt the carburetor itself. But just take your time, size it up, stop and check your work every once in a while, and you'll have good success. Watch that brass skill and it will start to race. It should be disastrous. Look at what we did. How fantastic. I see why it went slow. If I would have kept going, that would have sat and bore out this hole. So baby steps, baby steps. As you can see, that's a pretty dang tight fit there. I'm going to dry ice this. If you've never worked with dry ice before, it's dangerous. Do not want to touch it with your bare hand. Let's see what temperature we're at here. I can't even get it to read. So I've had that sit on there for probably a good 20 minutes and not even directly on the dry ice. I've had it just insulated between plastic. There's ambient temperature here. 66 degrees. So I'm going to go ahead and let that do more of its thing. And I'm going to go ahead and heat the body of this car butt. I've got my caliper already waiting ready to go back together. And that's where I brought my temp going out. Now you've got a member out, have any guts in here. No rubber parts in the car butt, so ever. This cold temperature, I'm going to get about 9,000 serenferents fit. All right, after squaring it up, you'll see we use a C-clamp and go ahead and start to press it down in there. You're going to see me stop and measure multiple times. I mean, you know what I'm saying? Measure twice, cut one. And then there I was dressing it with a file to create a little flatter edge because that clamp just kept wanting to slip around. And then I had to make some corrections, as you can see there. And then you'll see I reversed the clamp and put it on in the other direction. And it seemed to just not flex somewhat. Now, here's a step I do to put some pox in there. You probably don't have to with that tight interference fit. But boy, it's sure it's cheap insurance. Then clean it up real well and check your work. Nice, solid repair. It's nice close up of that flat. Don't forget to watch my other videos too, especially like the new restoration series from all the different parts I'm going to be seeing. I'll see you from our friends over at a vapor honing.