In this video we're going to look at the best possible low light GoPro settings to make your footage look as cinematic and epic as possible. John Wick styles, here we come. Now we all know that low light GoPro footage sucks, due to the tiny little sense that they can't handle the darkness. That's why for this video I took YouTube's top six videos on the topic. Chartered out their individual settings in road around Sydney Airport like 20 times, with a range of lighting conditions and recorded the results. Basically, I've done all the hard work for you, all you need to do is decide on which settings you like the most. I'll also be sharing the settings that I've used previously at the end of the video. Before we jump right into this we need to clarify just a few things. I'm using the Hero 7, the settings can be used across all heroes. I'll be making a dedicated Hero 10 version soon to see if the low light quality has improved. Keep auto low light off, we want as much manual control as possible. ProRes should always be on. Every YouTuber suggests not exceeding ISO max 1600 as the footage becomes unbearably grainy. Hyper smooth doesn't work too well in low light, due to there not being enough light or information in each frame for the process that to do its thing. So don't freak out if your footage is a little more shaky than usual. Superview is always set to on, unless of course you don't want your hands in the frame. If you're going to edit the video later, set sharpness to low with GoPro color to flat, then sharpen and grade in post accordingly. I'll be releasing a full tutorial on how to do this in the near future along with the launch of my GoPro Lutz Pack. It's going to be sick. If you're not going to be doing any editing and you're going to be using the footage right off the GoPro, then set sharpness to medium and the color to GoPro color. High sharpness doesn't really look that good, it doesn't look cinematic or professional, but if that's a look you're going for, then go for it. The footage you're seeing in this video was shot in GoPro flat with the sharpness said to low. I've then applied a tiny bit of contrast in post, which you can see here. This is the before and this is the after. Sick. Let's get into it. As a base comparison, the footage you're seeing right now is from the auto setting. We're letting the GoPro control everything here and I guess the footage isn't too bad. A few things you'll notice that the footage is blurry due to slow shutter speeds. Slow shutter speeds mean more light can hit the sensor, which is great, but it makes for a blurry image, which isn't so great. The exposure levels change with different lighting conditions, which doesn't look that cinematic or professional. We're after a nice consistent exposure across the board. The same goes for white balance, which alters its color. We want control over that. And the quality of the image gets crushed by the boost in ISO, which you all know increases the sensitivity of light to the sensor, which makes the footage brighter, which is great, but at the cost of producing grainy, noisy footage, which isn't so great. These next settings are recommended by YouTube channel Pascal Basel. 24 frames a second with a shutter speed of 148th of a second allows us much light to hit the sensor, while maintaining the correct amount of motion blur by doubling the shutter speed in comparison to the frame rate. So if that sounded a bit confusing, what's this next video if you'd like more info on motion blur? Here's why Balan said to auto, which is totally fine. I still prefer dialing in a set figure to minimize color shifting. Here's ISO max set to 800 to keep the green or noise level down to a minimum. However, resulting in a darker or under exposed shot. Now let's look at the same settings, but with the ISO dialed in at max 1600. These settings are recommended by YouTube channel mount media. You can see the difference in brightness now at the expense of introducing more noise into the footage. Around the chest mount GoPro here, that's why it's looking a little bit lower, but you can see that everything's nice and bright. Everything's a bit brighter through the airport. It looks sick. You can see straightaway as soon as we start cruising down, it gets a little bit dark. You can see all the green around the lights there going down at straight. Tunnel looks awesome, Tunnel always looks sick. In this dark section, you're going to see all the green and looks pretty bad. Which do you prefer? A bright shot but with more noise or a darker shot with less noise. Now let's take the same settings, but set the white balance to 3200 Kelvin. These settings are recommended by David Manning. You'll notice that the temperature of the footage has turned a nice blue. We're getting into the full John Wick side-to-punk territory here, which I absolutely dig. It almost looks like I'm in Tokyo or I'm playing Need for Speed 2 or something. It just takes you to a different sort of place. So we've got more control over the white balance there. You'll notice that there will no color shifts at all. You just set in 3200 Kelvin. That's what's going to be the whole time. Let's bring up the white balance to 4,000 Kelvin. These settings are recommended by Reha Alev. Now you can see that the temperature has warmed up right across the board giving a more neutral tone. The higher the temperature, the warmer the image. The lower the temperature, the cooler the image. The ISO has dropped down to 800 which he recommends. And it is a lot smoother during the low light sections. You don't get so much green or noise happening around all these little light pops. And now for the pre-sert that I have used previously in my nighttime motor vlogging bits. Now I bumped mine up to 30 frames per second at 1.60th of a second. For me, I enjoy the look and feel of 30 frames per second. But doing this means that you have to increase the shutter speed to 1.60th of a second. Meaning that there's less light that hits the sensor which results in making the image darker. Now after making this video, I don't really realize there's not much of a difference between 24 frames a second and 30 frames a second. Due to the image stability not working that well. So I think from here on in, I might even now consider going back to 24 frames a second knowing what I've learned. White balance is at 3200 Kelvin. I really did the Blue John Wick cinematic effect. And I have ISO set to 1600. I do like a brighter image and I can always de-noise it in post if I need to. Whenever I'm out riding at night though, I do make sure that I'm riding in a world-eat area. If you're riding down some dark alley streets or through some old country town roads that are just pitch black, obviously you're not going to have a good image because it's just damn too dark. So for best results, ride where there's a lot of light. Try to stick to the roads that have as much light as possible. Tunnels, airports. Just keep doing looks like what I did. So which settings do you prefer or do you think you will use? Or do you think the footage still looks horrible and they go per it needs to get their act together? I'm really keen to see how the Hero 10 will compare. But until then, let me know what you think in the comments below and watch this video right here. If you'd like some dope settings for motor vlogging during the day. PLEASE!