Hey everyone, I've got some exciting news. I just opened my own online store CyberNightMarket.com. I'm still learning the whole online retail thing, so I'm starting with one single product that I'm going to show you today. My heat in suppress that a lot of you have asked about. I'm going to talk about why you might want one and show you how to use it. It's basically a high quality soldering iron with some special tips. What we use for is to take these needle nuts and neatly melt them into place in our free deep rinse. Let me show you how to do that. Okay I have my practice piece here. I'll link to the STL on the product page. Now the heat in certain tip is still turned off. That's very important or you'll get burned. You'll notice I didn't remove the raft. This gives me a nice stable surface to work on. And if the nut is near the edge of the print, the downward pressure won't make the whole part slip. I'm going to align the color, not the end of the heat in certain tip. It's that next piece that pushes on the insert and I'm going to set that about 1mm below at the top of the part by turning this style on here. See I can tap the part against the side of the tip to get the height just right while I adjust the dial. I want a nut a tiny bit in set just to make sure that the free deep rinse surfaces are firmly pressed against each other. Next, I'm going to set the tip to 300 degrees Celsius. I found that's really the sweet spot for almost all my prints in PLA, PETG, even nylon. Cooler than that and it takes forever warmer than that and it turns into a gully mass. This is why you want a high quality hot end. If the temperature is not consistent and within a pre-denever range, things get messy fast. It does add a bit to the price but if you are doing any kind of small scale manufacturing or home fabrication, the cost of master prints and crocky inserts adds up pretty fast. This is one of those things is not a great idea to chip out while that's hitting up. I'm going to insert all my nuts like so. Now I like to insert them all first. The reason I like to do that is that they are very hot for a few minutes after you put them in and if you handle the parts that's a decent chance of burning yourself on them accidentally. Now in order to use the press, I squeezed these two bars together and this rubber bands pressed the insert down into my free deep rinse. Yes, rubber bands. Here at least the chip solution was the best solution. I tried with a spring with a gas shock using thick washers as weights. In the end, the rubber bands were best because they let me quickly change the amount of downward force of course a huge range in tiny increments. The chip and they are easy to replace as needed and I wanted the whole machine to be a binaural life kind of deal. Every part on it is metal and if somehow you manage to brace something on it, it's easy to replace. Okay, so here we go. The tip goes in the nut until the color rests flat against the nut for best heat transfer and let the rubber bands do the work. Don't try to force it down and in yourself. If you are doing a lot of them, just send the bands so it takes about 10 to 15 seconds per nut. Faster than that and you won't get the plastic fully melted into the knurling on the nut. If you turn up the heat, it can melt too much of the plastic. 300 degrees, 10 to 50 seconds is really the sweet spot. And there we go. Why do we want to do that? Why use screws at all? Why not just free different everything in one big piece? Well a few reasons. Those of you who are familiar with wood know that it has a grain and that is strongest across the grain and weakest along the grain. At the end, 3d prints are the exact same. They are weak along the lines and stronger cost the layer lines. It's no good if it's horizontal because then the legs are weak. But if it's vertical, the table top is weak. So what if we print the legs with vertical layers and the table top with horizontal layers and attach them? Now anyone who has taken a Wushup class will tell you this is how you make a popper table and the exact same idea applies to 3d printing. The next reason we use Hitty Inswers is it allows us to iterate. If we are making complex devices, we can quickly change the design and bolt it on. If we are cutting threads into the print with a sheen metal screw, that wears out pretty quickly. And all the mechanism for an automated dog feeder I'm working on. I've made a dozen or so variations. But since I'm using Hitty Insert, it's easy for me to swap them out and try new things. It allows me to skewer bearing, motors and other parts quickly and easily or complex machine that has wheel world functionality. And lastly, it allows for print sludger than the printing area of your 3d printer by bolting together many pieces. If you mostly do decorative or cosplay prints, you probably don't need one of these. Although sometimes complex props do well with inserts. It also doesn't work with resin prints. But it's probably the most important to you can get after a 3d printer itself if you do any kind of functional 3d printing. Prototypes, repairs, small machines, jigs and fixtures. I'd say about how my prints these days use his set inserts and I save a lot of time being able to change parts out and attach new ones this way. Now if you just needed a few times a year, you can absolutely do this with a careful touch and a soldering iron. You have to be careful to set and not perfectly straight, but it can absolutely be done with a little practice. If you do a lot of 3d printing, run an essay store or do any kind of small scale or home manufacturing, that gets a really fast and mistakes are inevitable and get expensive in lots of prints. If you need it fast and you need it looking clean and you can't afford to occasionally messed up a 5 hour print, this insert press will pay for itself. It comes with everything you see here, the digitally controlled hit the end, and 1.4 and 1.6 and 2 and 2.5 and 3 and 4 and 5 and 6 tips. One hit the elements and some starter nuts. This is the exact same machine I use almost daily in my own workshop to make things for my YouTube channel. If it's a good thing for your needs and your budget, how we have you to send you one, the purchases for my online store go directly to support my channel and I very much appreciate it.