Do you love to take nice time lapses with your mirrorless camera, but you really hate to deal with the huge amount of RAW files that you have to import, edit and manage in post production? There is a solution for this, and in today's video I'm gonna make your life easier. Ciao guys and welcome back, I'm Luca and in today's video I'm gonna share with you my workflow with the time lapses. When we want to capture time lapses we have basically three options. We can shoot a RAW, we can shoot in JPEG or we can shoot videos. And two of these options are a little bit problematic for my type of workflow. Work-Lof workflow. The main problem of shooting a time-lapse in RAW is that we're gonna have a huge amount of files with a huge size. So for example, if the RAW file of your camera is around 30 megabytes, if you're gonna capture 10 seconds time-lapse, that is around 300 pictures for 30 frames for 2 time-lapse, you probably have to deal with 90 gigabytes of files. That maybe doesn't sound really much, but when you're gonna import those 90 gigabytes of files in Lightroom, you're gonna do the batch correction, the batch export in JPEG. In a way that you can import the time-lapse in your video editing software, the process of exporting the RAW files to JPEG can literally take hours, even with a powerful computer. And it can be okay if you don't take a lot of time lapses, but if you really love to do it and you start to accumulate time lapses, you can see that the workflow is gonna be a little bit slow. But what are the advantages of capturing a time-lapse in RAW? Of course, you're gonna have more flexibility in post, both with the colors and with the exposure settings, because you're gonna have an higher amount of dynamic range. We're talking about 14 stops of dynamic range, and around 14 or 16 bits of color information in your RAW file. So if you wanna get the best image quality possible, you should film everything in RAW. So if you're a professional time-lapseer that you make a living out of it, you probably want to stick to shoot in RAW instead of any other option. But if you are a mature or just intermediate photographer, you probably want to consider another option instead of shooting in RAW. The second option that we have to take time lapses is to record a long video that we're gonna speed up later in post. While this can sound pretty easy and amazing, it has some drawbacks to consider. First, you're gonna deal with a huge amount of gigabytes, probably way more than shooting in RAW. Nowadays, every camera is able to record for K at 100 Mbps for seconds, so if you're gonna film for 30 minutes with that recording option, you're gonna deal with probably 30 or 40 gigabytes of video. That is way more than shooting in RAW. The second problem with video is that the battery life is gonna be extremely short because the power consummation of the camera is gonna be higher if you're gonna take videos instead of follows. The third and most important problem of this technique is that you're not gonna record with a native resolution of your sensor. So if you have a 24 megapixel sensor, it's gonna be a 6000-4000 resolution video. It's a 6K. While if you're gonna film in 4K, like all the cameras are doing nowadays, mostly our full frame cameras, also APS-C, you're gonna have a 8 megapixel file. So you're gonna have an Ultra HD resolution video that doesn't have much flexibility to reframe everything in post. It's always better to record time-lapse with high resolution possible, because in the future maybe you want to reframe your time-lapse, or maybe if you're a little bit more advanced, you can work a little bit with compositing and animate your time-lapse in a more interesting way. But there is an advantage of filming a time-lapse with a video because we can record with a log profile in 10-bit. And we're gonna get a good amount of dynamic range, plus a decent amount of color depth because we're gonna record in 10-bit. Yes, we're getting there. The third option is to shoot in JPEG. The problem of JPEG is that we're not gonna get a lot of color information because we're gonna store the information in a 8-bit file. And most of the time, if we shoot with the standard picture profile, we're gonna have the problem of low dynamic range. So we're gonna have around 10 stops of dynamic range. So while we film a landscape, there are eye chances that you're gonna blow out the sky or you're gonna crush the shadow. But there is a solution for this. Almost in every new mirrorless camera available in the market right now, there is a picture profile that works extremely well with 8-bit color. Yes, my friends, I'm talking about the HLG or HDR picture profile. And this picture profile can drastically improve and speed up your workflow process with the time-lapses. Because we're gonna retain 13 stops of dynamic range, you're gonna still have an eye resolution file of 6K, 6,000-4,000. Plus, you'll be able to color-grade your time-lapse in your video editing software without seeing weird color artifacts. I've been working with this flow for almost two years and I can say that I'm extremely happy about it. I'm pretty sure you can enable this picture profile in every mirrorless camera. For example, with the Sony cameras, you'll just have to change the picture profile to the number 9. If I remember well, I don't have Sony cameras anymore. And if you have a Panasonic camera, let's have a look together. I will show you how to enable it in your Lumix S camera. So to enable this setting in the Lumix S cameras, we have to go in the first page of the photography settings. And you go to the HLG photo and you select the full resolution. You make sure you're in the HLG standard and not HLG monochrome. Then you just have to select the image count and the shooting interval and then you're ready to go. You just have to start. But using the HLG picture profile, the Lumix S cameras will not create automatically a time-lapse for you. You can only create a time-lapse in your computer, so you're going to import the files in your video editing software. And the video editing software, most of the time, you will just generate a time-lapse for you. And then you just have to export your time-lapse with the desired resolution, frame rate and bit rate. Pretty simple. I'm pretty sure that in this way, your workflow with the time-lapse is going to be extremely faster and smoother. And you're going to enjoy the process way more than before. Thank you so much for watching guys and I'll see you next time. Ciao! Thanks for watching guys! Thank you for watching! Ciao!