Alright guys, in this video we're going to show you how to fit a Bristol Thermosathic shower cartilage. This is a cartilage that controls the temperature and a prism mix of shower. So here's the part we're going to be fitting today. Alright guys, so tools for the job before we start. In this instance when you get a 3mm Allen key, I have 2.5mm actually. The important thing here is these are the Allen keys I normally use, which have the sort of plastic sleeve in on them. These don't actually fit through the Crop screw hole. So you have to use just a plain Allen key like this to enable it to fit through the hole. Okay, it's standing now for a small screwdriver. Just for pinning off the plastic cap to reveal the Crop screw. This is the posy bit screwdriver for removing the faceplate. Set pliers just to remove the plastic bushing that's on the end of the existing cartilage. You'll see that in the video. It's a grey bushing, it just needs pulled off. It can be quite tight. Suitable wrench for removing the actual retaining nut. In this instance it was a 32mm wide retaining nut. I use my Nippex plyo wrench here, but you can use an industrial spanner as long as it's got wide enough jaws. The next thing is a tube of grease, which is important to lubricate the o-rings on the new cartilage. Lastly a good release in agent such as this. This is the one I always use, it's really good. You will find retaining nut sometimes can be a bit seized in your line scale. So you can spray this stuff for WD40, anything like that. Leave it for two or three minutes and it's loosening off. Just don't force it when you're doing the job. Remember these components are all brass, they're easily damaged so just take your time. Like guys, that's the tools you'll need for the job. That's fairly straightforward and I'll continue now. Alright guys, first things obviously to isolate the water supply and then we can start work on this. The bottom handle here is the temperature control handle so the valve is in bind. This, we need to get this off so you'll see a little hole in the bottom there. There was a plastic cap covering that, which you need to ping off, you know where they stand there for the small screwdriver. That was a real hole where you can then insert your Allen key and slacking off the small crop screw in a sense since it was two and a half millimeters. You'll notice I've left the handle pointing to nine o'clock as I'm looking at a clock face. I always do this just so we can put it back in the same position. Okay, pull the handle, so you just pull off as simple as that. Okay, so now we can see the black plastic piece there, which is the temperature stop if you like, so you need to mark or remember what way it was on. So if you see that bit on the right hand side, I can see that setting at three o'clock because if you look on a clock face, that's a way we need to put it back on. It just dictates the temperature, you know the highest temperature and the lowest temperature on the valve. Okay, so here's the small grenade bush we're talking about. You need to pliers to pull off. It's basically a bush that slips and thops at the cartridge. So basically you might need pliers losing this off but just should just pull off. Make sure you keep that because that needs to be fitted onto the new cartridge. It just pushes on on the splines of the cartridge. Okay, we need to get this actual water control off. So same process, get this handle off, so get the plastic cap off of the hole there to reveal the drop screw. Use the Allen key again, get a drop screw out or loosen it off, sorry, which will then enable you to pull the handle off like so. So just way out the side. There's nothing further we need to do with that. You won't notice that it had it in the nine o'clock position again, so I can put it back it on the nine o'clock position so we'll know what's in the same area. Okay, here I need to remove the face plate. So the only thing that was holding this was two screws, you know, so just use the screwdriver to remove those plates. It should just pull off very easily. You may find it's siliconed on, some people are siliconed on, but this one's just got a sponge, it's got a gasket so it was easy enough to come off. Okay, next thing is this collar here, so we need to just unscrew the collar. Shouldn't have an issue getting that off, just unscrew it at my hand. And now that reveals the retaining nut which is holding the cartilage in place. Okay, so this really need to use, you know, a suitable or a leasing agent. So here I'm choosing the plus gas. It's going to give out a good soaking. I'm going to thread if the retaining nut. You may need to leave it for after two or three minutes just to soak in. And then it should be fairly easy to remove, just don't force it. So here I'm choosing the Nipax player wrench. This might prefer tool for a stable job. You know, I've been up, I've obviously done this before, it's just for the video purposes. So you just pull out, just like that. The cartilage just pulls out on a spring. Okay, importantly now with a new cartilage you can see you've fitted the gray bush on the end there. That's just a case I've pushed it on. And now we're just about to apply silicon grease around the two oarings here. So two black rubber parts you see there are the oarings. So give us smidgen grease, then those. Now it would just simply push this back in. It's just a push fit fitting, so you just push it in. I've not actually pushed it in far enough here. So you need to actually push it in about an inch, give it a good push and make sure it's all the way home. You'll know as soon as you put the retaining ring in. If it's in far enough, you know if it threads the bite. So retaining rings back in, tightened up. It just needs to be nipped up, not hugely tight. The oarings do all the seal in here. All this does is hold the cartilage in place, so it's nipped up. Chrome collar back on, hand tight, tighten that down like so. Just replace the cover here. As I said, it's got a foam gasket this one, so it didn't need any silicon. But you can't silicon it if you want. Two screws, you put it back in the position, tighten it down. The water handle back on, you can see if it put it back on. The way it came off, so it's the handles pointing at nine o'clock there. So put it in position, taking up the grub screw and replace the small plastic cap on the bottom. Just that back on. Okay, so now we're fitting the refitting the temperature stop. So importantly, we've got it sitting at three o'clock again. You see that, the bit jotting out in the right hand side. So we've pretty much put it back in the same position that came off. All this does is dictate the temperature, just ensures that the shower is not scolting hot. Okay, I've just fitted the handle back with the handle again at nine o'clock. Just fitting it, the way it was and we took it apart. It's just a hub at again, do I do this all the time with things like this. So now I'm just testing to see where the stop is and where it's working. Compared to the there's markings on the actual shower, so I'm just looking to see if it's roughly in the area. You know the hot and cold, which it is, so grub screw refitted. Now we're just testing the shower obviously. So we're just going to do the water's back on. Switch the shower on. And I'll just adjust the temperature now and then feel the water just to see if it's heating up. Bearing in mind before I get called out to the show of the water, which is freezing cold. You know all the time, regardless how much it turned up there. The cartridge, so now we can feel that, it's getting really warm, you know, so I know it's working. Thumbs up, jobs are a good one. Alright guys, hopefully I have just some help to you. If you like the video, please give a like, thumbs up. Please subscribe to my channel, click on the bell, that will notify you anytime I upload new videos. Thanks again for watching, thank you. Bye.