Hey, this is Kenneth and today I want to show you a conventional repeater I built using a RIC and two Motorola mobile radios. So I know that in the last video that I used a RIC, we built a crossband repeater and I made a comment about you could build this but it either there's no way to make it legal for part 97. This is because of two things. Part 97 requires that you have automatic identification on your repeater and part 97 requires that you have some form of remote control. As I've been looking into the specifics of that for this video, that has caused some consternation for me because the definition of what warrants remote control is nebulous. So don't take this video as legal advice that I know what the definitive answer is. But that being said, what I've actually managed to accomplish here is taking a Motorola RIC radio repeater interface communications kit. This one happens to not be in its enclosure just for convenience and I've managed to get it to both automatically identify itself and enable me to remotely shut it down. So let's start with the RF deck that we've got over here. For the receiver, I've got a Motorola Max Track 300 UHF. For the transmitter, I've got a 10 watt GM 300, also UHF. And then on the top here, I've got a $100 Chinese UHF mobile duplexer. I deeply regret spending only $100 on a duplexer. This duplexer is terrible. Buy a nicer duplexer. The frame that they're sitting in right here, this is the RF deck chassis out of a GR 500 repeater. I bought it just for spare parts and so this is laying around. So you can see on the back, we've got from the duplexer, the two jumper cables that go to your transmitter receiver. And then two power cables coming out of the two radios out to power poles that I've got plugged into a ready for power pole splitter. And then this runs off to my power supply. Coax here runs off to a dummy load. All right, so there is the actual RF deck. As far as the controller, we've got the Motorola RIC. And then here, we've got the Argent Data System ADS-SR1 Simplex Rebeater Controller plugged into the accessory port on the RIC. As I didn't mention this before, but on the back of the RIC, you've got a received port for your receiver, a transmit port for your transmitter, and an accessory port. So how we are getting the automatic identification from this is I have the ADS-SR1 plugged into the accessory port. And I've turned off the Simplexer Repeater function on it, which is Crunch Crunch 7.0. And so it isn't acting as a Simplexer Repeater, but I turned on the Morris ID on it. So every X minutes, it automatically plays out its Morris ID, which gets routed through the RIC and out the transmitter. There's our Morris ID taken care of. The remote control on it is a little bit more difficult. Looking at the block diagram here, we were used to the normal duplexer receiver controller, transmitter duplexer, block diagram. And on this connection between the receive radio and the controller, we've got the 12 volts DC. We've got the receive audio and the carrier operated relay. Those are the two signals that you need from the receiver. But I've also routed this additional pin out of the Motorola 16 pin connector. I believe it's pin 4 for a signal called call alert. Call alert is a feature supported by Motorola as well as many other commercial radios that lets you signal a remote unit and try and get their attention somehow. The typical application for the call alert signal is you would wire it up to a relay in the police cruiser and it would honk the horns and flash the lights to try and get the officer's attention if they happen to be outside the vehicle. On the transmit side, I've routed an additional signal on pin 10, which is the ignition control. Normally, you control a radio by turning on and off the power switch on the front, but the Motorola support this feature where you open the radio and you cut out a fuse. And then if you apply 12 volts on the ignition control pin, the radio will turn on or off. The typical application there is that you have some sense line from your key switch in the ignition routed here so that when you turn the car on, the radio just turns on right along with it, which is a nice feature. The RIC supports a knockdown feature, I guess it calls it setup, which we ignore, again I ignored in the last RIC video, but it has this setup or knockdown feature where it's got a button on the front and internal to the circuit, it has a D flip flop. What the flip flop is looking for is a positive pulse coming in on the call alert signal from the receiver and it toggles the transmitter ignition control line between on and off. Just to demonstrate the call alert signal, so I've got just the receiver turned on, I have it unplugged from everything else. And then I'm going to take a handheld on the receive frequency, so you can see I'm keen up through the radio here. And if I send the DTMF sequence that I programmed as the call group for this radio, you'll notice it goes into this call alert mode and so it flashes CA and it beeps pretty much forever until you press a button on it. So what I also did is on the RIC in the 12 position or the 12 pole dip switch, I turned on the switch, selector switch to enable knockdown. So now if I plug this in, so we've got the receiver turned on, it's powering the RIC. The transmit radio is turned on, but internal to it I have cut jumper J801, which is a little fuse that makes it now sensitive to this ignition control pin. So you'll notice the orange light is lit right now, which means the repeater is set up. But if I press the setup button, it toggles it and the transmitter turns off. Right, and so at this point, we've got the conventional repeater going on in that I can sit here and talk into one radio, which I'm doing here, and it comes out of another one. And that's some interference on there. Oesky 6, Kilo, Oesky 5. Periodically, the ADS SR1 also plays the Morse code ID. Hey, hey, like that. That timing was phenomenal. And so there's the automatic ID taken care of. For this demonstration, I have it ID in every minute. I would realistically set it to every nine minutes. The requirement is 10. I put a minute in for a slot, just kind of out of habit, and in case someone gets pedantic. So now let's say that something with my rate, something with this repeater, or the people using this repeater started going horribly wrong out in the field. What I could do is key up on the input frequency at high power and send to the call alert signal to the receiver. The receiver would then positive pulse the call alert pin into the RIC, which would toggle the setup versus knockdown, which would then turn off the transmitter. And that would be the end of my repeater being obnoxious. Oesky 6, Kielis, and Fox. So you'll see we went into call alert mode here. We toggled the orange light here, and the transmitter turned off. So at this point, the repeater is disabled. Right? And so we have now built a conventional repeater. You got your duplexer, two radios, and a controller that has automatic ID and remote knockdown, which, and according to the A2L, this is not sufficient remote control, but I'm not going to actually try and tackle that whole bug of can of worms there. But yeah, that's it. Again, if you have any strong desire to see a video about something repeater related or have feelings about where you want to see this lecture series go, please feel free to leave any questions or comments in the comments. And thanks for watching. Bye.