Alright, throwing a mug. I've sound on this is going to be recorded with the built-in mic on the camera so it's not going to be great. I'll see about getting a different mic for future videos but at the moment this is good as it's going to get. I throw my mugs with as many grams in clay as I want milliliters capacity. So this is going to be a medium mug, 350 grams of clay, 350 milliliters capacity. It's a good way of approximating how much clay you're going to need for any size basically. So 250 grams, my 250 mill small bucks and then up to 550 for my 550 milled jar mugs. But if you wanted to make an 800 mill jug, 800 grams of clay is a good start point. So I use wooden bats, I wet them first because it just means the clay sticks in the centre a bit better. But my main trick for sticking the clay to the start, take a wet sponge and apply pressure in and down on the outside bottom edge just there once that's smeared, once the bat is not going to work. Then centering is just one of those things. You've got to practice, there are plenty of fantastic videos showing you how to do it and I've been told I sort of do it for a long way around anyway and I apply pressure with the hands backwards as how I worked out how best to do it when I started. Now I can't unman it. The one trick that I find works really well is to prevent hair scraps. You want to apply pressure with the heel of your hand which other hand is going to be in at the bottom. Really when you're combing in getting pressure right in to the middle because the reason you get S-cracks is that the clay isn't aligned and homogenized and properly wedged in together. The centre part is weak because you haven't applied pressure all the way down there and you can come back and kind of help that out once you've opened the clay and you apply pressure down in the centre with sponge or fingers. At this stage here you can apply pressure down on the bottom which definitely helps but I found you can still get S-cracks even if you do this. You have to really apply quite a lot of pressure to avoid them this way but if you comb all the way in you won't get them. So as you can, that changes with bigger balls of clay because you can't do it at the same extent that the small balls of clay really comb in and make it tall and narrow. Pulling the walls out again, you're planning to do a video showing you how to do that. I won't go into too much with the one thing I do that some other people don't do. So I use my thumbnail dig in at the bottom to make sure I'm not leaving loads of clay smeared onto the back. It's harder if you're going to use a system like I do where you use a set amount of clay for a set size you really want to know that all that clay is in the piece. So if you leave loads behind and cut it off at the end unless you do that consistently you won't know how much clay is in the piece versus how much you've thrown away. It's as much easier to incorporate all the clay into the piece and you'll know that it's going to be a set size for a set amount of clay. I trim the bottom with a triangle turning tool. I find them much better than the knife tool. They just get a remove the clay for you and they just make it effortless. The knife tools work but and sometimes the knife tools work better but it's a most of what I do. That's fine. Now I'm going to make this into a swirly muck. So the next stage is to really get the walls wet. Slow the wheel right down and then what you're looking for what I do is I've got one finger inside one fresh out. That's the finger that does the pattern. These two fingers support the clay on the outside, either side. If they don't push in they just resist the clay from moving and you apply a fresh like that. So if you watch the clay will bend outwards to start with and then once you get to the right amount of swirl you just move both hands up together back off the pressure at the top or you're not the rim of center. Once you've evened out the rim get all the water out of the bottom. That's quite important. You don't want water sat inside your piece. We're in the clay. Speed it back up makes it easier to need enough to rim. So even up the rim then I use a little stripper plastic taken from one of my clay bags. Fold that over the rim and you have a burnished smooth rim. Now what I'll do is take this off leave it on the back for the rest of the day. Come back this afternoon and I'll neat it out while it's still on the back because obviously it's still centered and attached. So there are a lot of things that are easier to do now than they would be if you were off. Plus when you are off it's firm enough that it's not going to distort when you move it. So if you have a schedule that allows it it's the easiest way through in the morning process them in the afternoon and leave them to dry slowly overnight before doing anything else. And that's it.