Hey everybody, it's Kevin from 3D Printed Props and in today's video I'm going to be showing you how to paint realistic metallics on your 3D prints. Now this happens to be a 3D resin print but you could do this on any type of 3D print whether it's a standard FDM or resin. And the prop we're going to be using to actually do this tutorial are these amazing daggers of Magida. Now these are the daggers from the Omen, these are the daggers used to kill the Antichrist. The scope down these is just super awesome. You can actually get these files over on my website 3Dprintedprops.com along with a list of everything that I use to paint and sort of create this. They're also in the descriptions below those are affiliate links. If you click those they do help out the channel. Another thing that helps out the channel if you hit like and subscribe and a little bell. Now without further ado let's go behind the fake wall and I'll show you how I got this effect with these super cool daggers. So I definitely love resin printing. These were printed on my Elligoo Saturn using CERATEK resin and you can see the detail is just super sharp. They look fantastic but of course we do have to do some sanding so we're going to start with a 220 then move to a 320 since these are pretty solid. I don't need to go much deeper. You can see some resin came out of the holes and it's got some bumps and some indents from the supports so you're going to need to take those down or fill them a little bit. So there's some indents and there's some raised areas from the supports. Now remember before you do any sanding put your mask on because as you can see the powder in this resin is really really fine. So this is a 220 and we're just giving it a once over. And the cool thing about when you're actually sanding this kind of stuff is you can see if you sort of wipe some away where those pit marks are that you know you need to fill later on and here's a few layer lines little scrapes. Now after I hit it with the 220 I went through and gave it everything a once over with the 320. Now again you know most of the time you don't have to go too rough but here I did you can see that the sort of the support marks are really heavy here so I went ahead and hit it with an 80 but I'm going to sort of leave it a little rough because these daggers are you know ancient and old but I'm just going to go through and give everything a once over with both the 220 and the 320 and of course this takes a little bit of time but that's how you make your props look great. Sanding is a pain. Sanding takes forever but if you want them to look sharp that's what you do. Now after I sand I wash all the prints down with soap and water so people are asking me how I did this what I used literally soap and water in the sink in the basement. So I just used some dowels and put some holes into this resin box to do some painting. First I hit this with a primer just a straight primer not a sanding primer and then with a gloss black and I sort of let it go a little while there so there are some white spots and I'm going to hit this with a number of the Vallejo paints that I love the metallics and I'm going to do dry brushing on all this so it's putting a little bit of paint on there wiping it off on a paper towel and then just sort of skirting the brush really lightly over the detailed areas over the highlights so that it picks it up. So you're leaving the low areas free from paint so that you know you're giving this thing dimension. So I'm going to build this up with a number of different tonals, tonal gold colors going from like a darker bronze up to a goldish color. So here is the sort of bronzes or dark gold color and you can find all of the colors I actually used in the description below and then I'm going to go through and hit it again dry brushing with an older brush that's got some sort of like harder bristles to get these lines going on in here and I'm going to just be adding highlights as I cover it where things would happen like where you're holding on to something and where you're touching it more and something like this you're going to get more highlights. So the high areas I'm just again skating over it with the brush and I'm getting I'm using a dry brush technique so not a lot of paint is being applied and I can build up the layers of color over time and again look for the areas that are the most raised because that's where your finger is going to wear away at the tarnish and keep things at bay. And you can see how it just really makes this thing come alive and give it that depth when you've got that dark dark color, the black that was the base paint, then the darker bronzes gold, then the gold and you're getting these layers that start to make it look metallic. Now I'm going to use some of this modern masters metallic colors and this is going to actually paint on rust and this stuff smells like metal. It's very heavy for the little jar it is because there's actually metal filings in it and when we put that applicator on it will actually create rust, not just the appearance of rust but actual rust. So again like the dry brushing of the colors, I am dry brushing the metallic paint, the metal infused paint onto this in areas that would probably rust low lying areas, areas where water might be and then I thought you know I want to go ahead and use a natural sponge and sort of dot that stuff on there and dabble it on so it looked more organic. And I was really happy with how it turned out and then you hit it all with the applicator, you flip them over, hit it with the applicator again and you let this sit for like a half an hour and it is a pretty incredible effect. I wish I had did a time lapse, a close up of something but there you go, you can actually see rust and this is real rust. If you were to feel it, if you were to smell it, you could definitely, I thought it was a little harsh in some areas so I'm actually going to be wiping some away and wearing gloves because it's rust and it's metallic and I'm trying to wear gloves more and more when I'm doing these things and you can see the rust come right off on the cloth. It's pretty neat. Now you want to keep that rust on there, you want to keep that paint on there so I'm going to go ahead and use their clear coat. I did a test first to make sure it wouldn't interact with the Vallejo paints and it didn't so I'm going to go ahead and put this on. Now it goes on milky like this but that's okay, it's a water based sealer and they usually go on milky looking and it actually does a fantastic job here. Now we're going to make the sort of case or the holder so I bought a little piece of burlap from Walmart, of course way too new. So I made a little concoction here of old coffee and tea bags and then just soaked the cloth in there and I probably let it sit in there for a good couple hours. I might have forgotten all about it and you can see the difference between the two one looks shiny new, one definitely looks old and ready but not ready enough. So I just mixed up some burnt sienna, some blacks, some grays, some browns and really just went to town on this thing, sprayed some water on it to sort of make the color sort of blend in and swiped it all around and got it to be super grimy. Now some of the edges still look kind of new because they were like the new edges I had forgotten about so I just went in and sort of tore and cut and ripped those to make it look more realistic. You wouldn't want everything else to look worn and then one edge to have this perfect cut down the side. And there you go. I cut off a piece to use for a tie and there they are. The daggers of Megito, the daggers from the Omen and I am super happy with how they turned out. When you're working on a prop like this, it's really the little details. It's getting the burlap, aging it, tearing it up and using the dry brush technique in getting these golds and bronzes, you can see how the background is very dark and then it's built up over time where you would touch the thing. And of course that rust really just brings these things to life and makes them look super old and super realistic. Now to get that rust look, you technically don't have to use that rust paint. I just wanted to try that out but you could just use oranges and some reds and maybe it's touch a yellow here and there to get that look. I just wanted to try it and it really makes it look super realistic because what it does is because you don't expect to see rust, real looking rust on a actual 3D print. Now yes, there are some people that can paint amazing colored rust and looking rust and I'm going to try that as well but I wanted to try that stuff. So here they are, the Omen daggers, fantastic movie if you've never seen the original. If you want, you can watch the new one, it is not good but you know, it'll do the pinch right. Any horror movie is a good horror movie. That's what I always say. I love the horror movies. So again, if you're interested, go ahead, stop over to the site, pick up these files, print them out yourself, watch the tutorial, pick up some of the paints if you need them and make your own daggers. Thanks a lot for watching guys, I really appreciate it, take it easy and have a great day.