One of the most crucial things one must learn in order to survive architecture school is rendering. Now there are a ton of options out there like alcohol markers, pastels, coloring pencils. Hell, if you're good enough you can even get away with just using Krayolas. But the most appealing rendering medium in my opinion is watercolor rendering. And that's why today I'm going to teach you guys some of the tips and tricks and maybe a few hacks that I used back when I was an architecture student in order to survive architecture school. Now there's nothing more frustrating than finishing a watercolor render piece only to find out that you can't erase the guidelines. So one solution to this is to use watercolor pencils for guidelines. This way as you apply the watercolor to your paper, the guidelines dissolve and magically vanish. Just like some sort of Genjitsu. This position is super cringy. I think most of you may already know this but for those of you who do not know, when using watercolor you should always begin coloring with the lightest hue then proceeding to layer on some darker hue on top. This prevents the previous colors from getting activated again and mixing with the new layers as they get re-wetted. Is that a word re-wetted? Anyways this brings us to our next tip. So this is what I usually do. I start of watercolor coloring on the left portion of my paper then I move towards the right. So this is to avoid my hands pressing on any of the wet watercolor areas. This also gives the left portion of my plate some time to dry as I work with the right portion of my canvas. Now if you're dry with the right side of your plate but the left side of your canvas is still a bit wet, don't be impatient and watercolor over the wet piece. This will just end up mixing all your colors. Instead you could just use a blow dryer to dry the wet parts faster. Big braaaay! Okay now one of the most crucial parts of water coloring that I think most beginners forget to account for is the wetness of the brush. To wet in your paper ends up looking like Jabba the Hot, all wrinkly and cellulite reddened but get it to dry and your colors will end up all blotchy and streaky. In order to find balance you must get a piece of rock and no this is not a mr. Miyagi thing. Okay all jokes aside this rug is what you are going to use that your brush on after you dip it in your watercolor. With enough practice young suburings you will get the correct balance. One of my main problems when I was a sapling I mean student was that my brushes was always mixing random colors onto my paper and the reason for this is because they weren't clean properly. So one solution to keep your brushes always clean is to keep two water bottles for cleaning. One for the initial dirt removal purposes and the next is to make sure that our brush is totally clean. Also I like to use plastic water bottles, because nature and the sea turtles and also after cleaning my brushes I make sure to return the caps. You guys don't even know how many times I spilled my brush water onto my paper countless millions of times such a pain. It's a real bad acting man. Anyways let's move on to tip number seven. So one thing I always use when water coloring is the spray bottle. I use it to put water on my mixing plates because my hands in steady enough to pour water from a bottle onto the mixing plate. I find that by using a spray bottle I can control the amount of water I place into each pocket of the mixing plate. It is also super handy when you're activating some dried up water color paste. So this next tip or hack is featured in one of my architectural hack videos. You could check it out up here or put a link right here. So this is used mainly for creating highlights. I usually use this when rendering windows. So what I do is I just get a white preala or a candle and I use this to right onto the areas where I want the highlights to be or where I want the watercolor to avoid. And that's it. Basically the wax makes the paper hydrophobic meaning watercolor can't get to those parts. So this is a tip that I just recently discovered. Apparently you can use a Mr. clean magic eraser sponge to erase watercolor but it doesn't completely erase things though so still use caution when watercoloring. But still if you have a minor mistake this magic eraser will sure save you in a pinch. Last tip or hack is one of my secret Nanjitsu's also featured in an architectural hacks video. Why do I keep doing this green G-Pose man? I don't know. I'm just drawn to green G-Things. That's dang it. Anyways check out the video right here. I'll put another link up there. So basically this hack lets you make a watercolor rendered image in less than 10 minutes. All you need is an inkjet printer, some eye-priced software, Iso... Isoprope... Isoprope... Isoprope... Isoprope... Just some alcohol and some cotton. So first thing you gotta do is you gotta print the image you want to watercolor on your plate but make sure to print it inverted or mirrored. After that just layer printed image onto your canvas image facing down and secure it with some masking tape. Now begin dabbing alcohol on the back of your printed image but make sure that your cotton isn't that wet. Just repeat dabbing until you achieve your desired result. And voila! A fake watercolor image transferred onto your canvas in under 10 minutes. Now all you gotta do is trace the outlines and bingo, bingo, bongo, you are now a master of this secret. No I'm not gonna do that green G-Pose. And that's it guys and probably in trouble now with the Secret Ninja Council for revealing all this secret architecture hack ninjutsus for you guys. So I got a bounce now. I didn't work did it. I'm ahead out now guys before the ninjuts find me. That's acting.婆難in Pigss!