Hello, I'm Kyle and this video is brought to you by the old road scene. Check the description below for details. Today we are talking about how to put all of these luscious textures into your maps. Stonework, grass, dirt, all of that good stuff. We're going to start with the basic floor tile. This is the most useful thing in the whole video. If you learn one thing, pay attention to what I'm doing here. Don't pay attention to how I spell words out of order sometimes. You don't want to just trace the grid. You want to draw the sides of each of these tiles, not just the top. If you draw each of these tiles individually with a little mark on going down into the ground, it's going to give it volume, it's going to make things look old and uneven and characterful, and it's going to make your map much more believable and beautiful to look at. Don't worry if your floor tiles look uneven. In fact, a lot of times that's kind of what you want. You want these places to look old and disheveled. That's what makes them look dangerous and interesting. Let me show you what I mean. Let's go ahead and draw a 3x3 grid, but let's push all of the tiles in different directions and crack them all in different ways to give them all a lot of texture. Now you don't need to individually treat all of your tiles lovingly to this amount of detail, but this is just a demonstration to kind of show you how much more interesting a featureless 3x3 tile grid looks like if you just put a little bit of extra mustard on it. Now isometric maps are kind of this cutaway style of map, not all the walls are shown. In fact, if the wall is going to block important details, we don't show it at all. This means that we end up having kind of like these parts of these tiles, the sides of these tiles if they're at the edge of the map. So go ahead and just kind of give that a little bit of volume and again, honor the lighting direction and it's going to add just that extra bit of flair, that extra bit of volume, that extra bit of material texture that's really going to make your map stick out. Let this hand drawn map be hand drawn, let your hand make things look uneven. The same goes for grass, variety, unevenness, asymmetry, all of these things are going to give it a much more natural look. Try to lay your grass out in tufts and kind of domes or kind of ponytails if you can think about it that way. And then once you do that, make sure that you keep the lighting direction in mind. That's really going to help you give your grass volume. Here's an idea, don't draw dirt. Draw rocks in dirt. Draw the dirt around those rocks. It's going to be easier. Rocks are going to fill up more space and let's face it, dirt is boring. Again, paying attention to which direction our light is going. We're going to shade in the dirt around all of those rocks that we just drew and let that contrast, let that texture describe the rocks in dirt. It's much more legible to have large chunks of rock in dirt than it is to try to render some kind of detailed dirt pattern on it. Let's draw some more grass next to a river. The river is going to be just a little bit lower than the grassy bank. Once we have the surfaces kind of plotted out, I'm going to start planning what I think of as the transition from the grass to the water. So I'm going to kind of draw these big lumpy pieces of clay or rock and then I'm going to start roughing in kind of where these waves and splashes are going to be. Now it's time to add some deeper values and really make sure that these details read. Again, keeping in mind which direction the light is coming from. Water seems trickier than it actually is. A lot of times if you just leave a little lip of that haloed light against where the water is kind of splashing up directly against something, that is going to kind of let that luster let that shine where that water kind of builds up as it runs into something. And then just kind of draw the reflection with a bunch of like these kind of zig-zags that kind of droop down. And you're basically done. We've talked about floors and water. Let's talk about walls. Let's talk about brick walls. I make my brick walls about two tiles high and then I divide that into four parts. Once I have that, then I start building in the staggered pattern of the bricks, basing it at first on the first and third row on the grid and then just dividing that in half. I'm making this as simple as I can on myself so I can do this quickly without thinking about it or measuring things. Then all you need to do to start shading your bricks is shade the bottom and the right of all of your bricks. It's going to make that if it's on the right wall do this. If it's on the left wall, you're going to do the bottom and the left of the brick. Automatically we can see that these bricks have this amount of volume. They're kind of all sticking out of the wall in their own particular way and that's what you're looking for. Add some variety to the bricks and just a little bit of shading. Maybe make that bottom row of bricks just a little bit darker with some extra hatching and honor the lighting direction on the far side of the bricks. That's about all there is to brick walls. Let's change things up a little bit. Let's add a spike pit trap. We're going to have a dirt wall and we're going to have this floor of spikes. Once you lay that out, the next step is to lay in where your spikes are going to go. Again, you want to make things uneven and jagged and dangerous looking. You want this to look kind of a ramshackle and run down in some way. I like to have my spikes pointing out every which way and it makes it look like a different kind of pattern. It changes things up and adds variety and it makes it readable as a completely different shapes that doesn't completely align to the grid. The next thing is just to shade in that back dirt wall basically the same way we've already seen. We leave the stones basically alone, maybe a little bit of hatching and it becomes really important to make sure that you protect those spikes that you don't accidentally shade inside of them. If they are too sharp, if they're too narrow, they're not really going to read at all. You won't really be able to see the pointy end of them. For shading dirt, it's kind of the opposite of water. So instead of all these zigzags kind of drooping down, they all kind of point upwards. They all kind of describe a contour that is making all these humps and lumps on the ground. All of these methods kind of build on themselves very naturally. If you can do bricks, you can do ladders as well. If you can kind of cut up the space in the same way that you cut up the bricks, but just draw all four sides of those bricks and make them just a little bit shallower. You have all of the steps of your ladder already and then you just kind of draw the sides of the ladder and you're all set. Drawing Dungeons is kind of a great way just to learn how to draw. It's fun. There's kind of something you can do with that drawing besides just show it to people. It's a function in a game. It's okay if everything kind of looks gnarly and busted, right? It's supposed to. That just kind of adds to it. If this was like a Star Trek ship, it would need to be a lot more precise. I would really need to get out my straight edge and make sure that everything was looking clean and proper and precise. This is a filthy dungeon where goblins and orcs hang out and it's okay if everything kind of looks busted and gross. Well, that's it for this Busted and Gross video. I hope this helps you figure out how to draw your next big dungeon project. If you figure out how to use some of these methods to describe these uneven surfaces and textures, it's just going to make your maps look all that much better. If you heard anything helpful in this video, please leave a like. If you want to see more of these videos, subscribe and maybe one day I'll see you on the old roads. Farewell.