What's up, Moe Parfam? I hope everybody out there is having an awesome day out there. So today's video, as you see we have my 2015 Dodge Durango over here. This has the 3.6 liter V6 engine and we're going to be talking about some of the do's and don'ts to keep you from having to replace this thing. But if you end up having to replace it, stay tuned. Alright, so some of you guys will probably already know what this is in my hand. This is an old filter cooler assembly for a 3.6 liter. Like your chargers and challengers, the Ram 1500, the Pro Masters, some of your Chryslers, your Town and Country minivans, jeeps, it goes on and on and on. The 3.6 liter is a workhorse for the Dodge and Chrysler line. No doubt about it. There's tons and tons of these engines out there. And mine's been awesome. I have had zero issues with our 3.6 liter, but there are some common failures going on with them. And most of it is actually because of the user or the mechanic. So we're going to talk about this thing a little bit. We're going to talk about what not to do and what you should do. And if it's already too late, what you got to do. So here we go. On all the 3.6 liters, the old filter is located basically on top of the engine. And this is it right here. This neck comes up from the top of the motor. And then you have an old filter cap right here. Now under the cap is your actual old filter canister. And I actually love this design. They made this very super easy to get to to build a replace the old filter and doing old change on these engines. I actually love this thing. Now what's going on is on top of the cap, it actually has a torque setting up here. 25 Newton meters is what's recommended to tighten these caps down to. And what's going on is a lot of people are over tightening them or they're cross threading the cap. Now keep in mind, this assembly is plastic. Now the actual old cooler itself is aluminum, but the entire thing is made of plastic. So if you cross thread the cap or you over tighten it and strip out the threads, you're a goner. You have no choice but to replace this entire unit. Now luckily this unit right here in my hand, this is from Spalab Auto Parts. They have a direct drop-in unit that comes complete with all the hardware. It's got the bolts, the cap, the old filter is already in it. It's got the sensors on the back already that are already installed. As you can see there's one here, one there. And it even comes with the intake manifold gaskets. As you guessed it, if you have to replace this unit, it is located underneath the intake manifold. So you do have to remove the intake manifold to get to this cooler assembly, but it's really not that big of a job. It's pretty straightforward. Other than that, these things are really not notorious for leaking or having issues. The number one thing is people are over tightening the cap or they're cross threading it. And I've actually seen some videos out there where people has actually snapped the neck off of these things because they tighten them down so much or because they cross-threaded the cap. And then the next oil change they went to do, the cap was pretty much seized and did not want to come off. So after applying so much force trying to remove it, the neck actually cracks or fractures. And then you're done and you have to get a new unit. So again, not a big deal. It's just more of one of those things where you have to pay attention and do the job correctly. Again, don't over tighten this. This is an O-ring seal. So it doesn't have to have a lot of pressure, a lot of force on here, not to leak. The O-ring will seal it up. All you're doing is pretty much tightening down this cap and you're bottoming it out right here against this frame. So you don't have to go all whole-cogin on this thing and crunch it down until you start hearing things crunch and crack. Not good. 25 Newton meters is what they recommend and that's it. No more. When you're putting the cap on, the threads on these things are pretty coarse. They're plastic. It's actually, believe it or not, pretty easy to cross-thread the cap. And you may not know it, but if you cross-thread it and then you put your torque wrench on there or your wrench and you start to try to tighten it down and you start to pull these threads or cross-thread it a little bit, you're going to be in a world of hurt because there's really not a tool out there per se to chase threads that big around. You know, let alone these plastic threads. You know, when you cross-thread on plastic, it kind of just rips them out or tears them up. It's a no-go. So again, just take your time, make sure you thread the cap on evenly and it should thread down very easy. If there's any resistance, take it back off and start over. That's pretty much all there is, guys. But again, Splab Auto Parts sent me this unit. Luckily, I don't need it for mine yet and hopefully I never need it. But they sent me this thing because we have a MoPAR channel. They know I got a V6 Durango. So I figured I'd do a review on it. And again, this is a very solid unit from Splab Auto Parts. Comes complete with everything, the hardware, sensors, the intake manifold gaskets, everything's in a box ready to go. And it's not that expensive either. It's going to set you back about 150 bucks. I'm sure that is much, much cheaper than a dealer part. And again, from what I can see, this thing is very solid. Everything is well made. It's got even the little seals here on the bottom. They are, these already come pre-assembled on the bottom as well. So you don't need anything. All you need is some tools. One of these units, if yours is already a goner, or if you're doing a repair job behind somebody that's already messed it up, this is all you need. So in the video description below, if you click on that, you'll see the link to this product from Splab Auto Parts. It'll take you right to their store. I believe it's about 150 bucks. And again, comes completely, comes complete with everything you need to do the job. Also on their website, they have some pictures and some how-to steps to actually replace in this. So very helpful there. If you're trying to tackle this your first time and you're not, you know, you don't really work on stuff all the time. They got some how-to steps and procedures along with some pictures on their website of what it takes to replace this thing. And it's really not that bad. Like I said, you do have to remove the intake manifold because the intake manifold sits above this. And then that's pretty much it. It's not all that bad. But very, very preventative. Again, we'll go over, you know, make sure you take your time. You thread the cap on correctly and you don't over torque these caps. And then you most likely will never need one of these things. But that's the number one failure that pretty much is going across the board. Even some quick loops, you know, there's always that one guy that instead of grabbing a wrench or something like that, he's going to grab his a good, good, good gun and put a socket on this thing and try to crank it down real quick. And hey, if you've done it enough times, I'm sure you can get by like that. But every now and then you might have a boo-boo. And we've been seeing some issues with this. So that's what's going on. And I think that's going to do it for this video. So again, if you need one of these, links in the video description below. As always guys, stay safe out there. Don't forget, hit that subscribe button. And we'll see you guys on the next one.