What is up players it is Warbust, stay back up in this my welcome to a video on how I paint wood elf dryads in this gray color scheme. Great trees, very cool and they're gonna pop out a lot more because they're such a off-color from the greens and the browns that I have been using. So that's a rundown of the colors that I'm gonna be using. Mechanic is standard gray, Dawnstone, Administratum Gray, sorry, Alisium Green, Castolin Green, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green. Very limited color palette but as you can see you're gonna get some great, great finishing colors all put together. You can use some shades, I decided with these miniatures that I wanted to see what it would look like without using the shades but if you want to add a little bit of extra depth then you can, the dryad models are great for that. The first thing that I did was I base coated the miniature in Mornfang Brown and Games Workshop has a colored primer that I used for this you might remember last year in the painting challenge I am base coated all of the miniatures in Mornfang Brown for my wood elves. That's because at the time I couldn't decide what I wanted to, what colors I wanted to paint. I was still thinking maybe I do the dryads in a brown kind of color scheme but in the end I decided to go with gray because like I had mentioned earlier the gray really sticks out. You can build up all the way to a kind of dusty, ashy white. You can also just change up the leaf colors. I didn't have to go with green I could have gone with if you wanted to do like an autumn color scheme you could do some red leaves and that would change how the the gray looks as well. I thought the green really is going to pop from the gray and that's why I decided to use it. Most of the other, in fact I'm going to say all of all 11 of the other dryads in this commission have been painted in this gray color scheme so I know that it works and I know that I love it. I think it's a great, great color scheme. So here we go, I'm just really brushing it on. I'm not trying to be too messy. You don't want to put too much paint on your brush and when you slap it on the miniature you don't want it to accumulate in any one area. So that's why I've got a lot of paint loaded on my brush but when I put it on the model I'm fanning it out from the center. I'm expanding it from that big glob wherever that big glob lands and I'm making sure that I get even coverage, I spread it out and even when I'm using my paint I'm adding a little bit of water to it so it flows more evenly. Mechanicus Thunder Gray isn't too thick of a foundation or a base paint so you don't have to worry about it really clogging up any details as long as you move it around while it's still a little bit of a little wet, honestly. You get it all over and make sure that you turn your model at all different angles. What I'm using for any of my new viewers and subscribers out there is I'm using a little cork handle and you can pick up any craft or hobby store. You can also use any kind of cylindrical container or shaped tool. You can even use like an old paint bottle or a prescription bottle to slap some poster tack or pinning tack glue tack to the top of it and it will make sure that your miniatures don't move and your hands won't ram up. I'm using Castellan Green to paint her little skirt. I think using this more drab green is a great idea because it shows you a little bit of a different color while also not distracting from the greens that we're going to use for the leaves. Now speaking of which I had lost that clip so I'm going to kind of work over what I did. The first thing I did was I took my Elysian Green after everything was dried. I waited for it to dry too. I took my Elysian Green and I just highlighted all of the skirt area and then I washed my warpstone glow and I painted it into the eyes and into the designs that are carved onto the bark. It's kind of gave it a glowy feel. Then I took my Don Stone and I'm just recreating everything that I did in that last video. 12 minutes worth of work and filming down the drain but that's okay. I'm highlighting all of the raised areas. This isn't the entire model. What I'm doing is I want to look at the model as a two-dimensional, almost like if I took a picture of it and I'm trying to see okay where are the most raised areas of this picture because if you just keep turning the model around and you're just highlighting the entire thing, you're going to lose your highlights. They're going to get all into the depths and the cracks and the crevices. Even though I had lost the video or actually did that, all I did was highlight the raised upper most areas in Don Stone and then I did the same thing in Administrative and Gray. Now what I'm doing is I'm taking my warpstone glow and making sure that I'm in frame. I'm picking out the leaves. There are lots of leaves sculpted onto the nature and there are some that I didn't even notice the first time that I went through painting it. I just painted the leaves that are sticking out of her head but then I realized oh yeah, this model has leaves sprouting out from her torso. So really it's a lot of fun to pick out all of the little areas and to find the sculpted leaves on your hair and dry head models. You're really going to like it and I know that because I actually have a good time painting them and what I've got on my phone on the sides make sure I don't hit any more buttons. I'm going to finish off with Moot Green and the goal here with your Moot Green is that you want to only highlight the edges of the leaves. So they're very tip and if you can either the top or the bottom you don't want to paint the entire leaf in Moot Green because then you're going to lose all that warpstone glow. You want to show the progression of color. And there you have it, how to paint a wood elf dry. I hope you enjoyed it. It's very quick simple clothing scheme that you can play with and do as you please. Thanks for watching.