Superbad Dad! Welcome to another Print and Paint video. In this video we're going to try to do things a little bit differently. It's not only a Print and Paint video, but it's also a comic book style painting tutorial. And it may be the easiest comic book style one yet. So anyone could do it and we're killing two birds with one stone. On top of that, we're also going to make a new style base, because I'm sure most of your are tired with the standard rubble one I've been making. So let's get started. I gave some clues in the last video of who this character is. Instead of hiding it, we'll just go right to them. Today we're making the Rhino. Now a lot of you probably know of who the Rhino is. He's a major Sparrowman villain who dresses like a Rhino. Well, that's all correct. Rhino was a thug who obtained a special Rhino suit that made him super strong. Of course he gets beaten and eventually gets more and more powerful using gamma radiation. Rhino basically gets beat by everyone like Spider-Man and the Hulk. But I'm not really surprised since those are two of the most powerful Marvel characters there is. The model I decided to print was created by 3DWP and it's a scan of a side-cho collectible statue. Their scans have been very impressive and remembered the same anime and the same people who made that. I print and primer this model. Now to the base color. Well, that's easy. It's gray. I use a uniform gray and paint everything on them except his little face stick now. We want a good base color here so it took me about two thin coats to full the cover room. Gray is done and then I quickly lay down his flesh color for his face. Base colors may be took me a few minutes at most. Now to have a bit more fun, dry brushing. A lot of dry brushing. I use Wolf Gray at first which is a gray blue color and go around his whole body. Pretty simple. Next I use an ash gray which is just a little bit lighter than uniform gray and I use before and I go around the same body again. For the next dry brushing colors, I go a little more selective. I decide that the light will shine from his top right down so I focus a little more on the dry brushing areas that would have the most light on them. I proceed to use an even lighter gray called Gorgon Hyde. Then a skeleton bone and finally a pure white. The reason I use some of the off whites and the blue wolf gray color is it gives some more color. Gray's can be kind of boring. Then I take some more ash gray and I paint the horns in the toes. And a flesh wash to his face as well. If you notice I do not add any wash to the body. Today we aren't using any kind of washes and relying solely on inking. And with the horn, I dry brush a little skeleton bone on there for more color. Highlights are done and I glue the rhino on the base. Here's what it looks like so far. As you can see the base is already complete but I'll go into how I made that in a little bit. Now you can stop here but that's no fun. Let's make a comic book character out of him and add some inking. Before inking you need two things, a nice long bristled liner brush and ink. I like the Vallejo gaming but you can use anything that you want. Now this process took the longest by far but can also be the most gratifying. I start the chest and do nice long lines around the crevices. In this case mostly his muscles. I like to outline areas first and then add details after. Once I get the basic outline of the entire chest I add some details. I do an insortment of small tick marks that blend into the outline. Some shadow areas where I want to place my shadows and some scratches and scuffs to larger areas to break up that grey. A rhinos hide can be very rough and have raised bumps. This many has some of those details around his knees and shoulders. I do little half circles and dots to give that look. This is where you get to be as creative as you want. If you need references check out some of the older comics that you like more of the style. I always recommend the artwork by Jack Kirby. I take my time and go through the whole model one piece at a time. The tricky part can be adding shadow areas of certain spots. This ink is fairly permanent and mistakes happen. If you're going to add large dark shadow regions make sure that's where you want it. Both all mistakes you can make it look great in the end anyways. A cool thing with a liner brush is that you can control the thickness of the line fairly easily. The more pressure you place on the brush head the thicker the line. So I recommend you start with a thin line and if you want to make it thicker go over again with some more pressure. Also make sure your finger doesn't sit on the bristles at all. The whole thing flexes to give a nice smooth line. If your finger touches it you restrict that flex. You'll also have a tendency to choke up on the brush but let the brush do its magic. Inking is kind of a revolving door. After you finish one area and go to the next you find yourself right back to that first area again. This especially applies to shadows that you find certain areas just need more ink. Now when I got to the face I totally forgot to highlight it. I just add a simple lighter flush color on it for highlights. That's all it really needs. Then I fairly carefully inked his face. I tried to make very thin lines and not to clump them up too much. For the teeth I add a bit more white and small white dots for the eyes. For the pupils I take my black ink and make dots towards the top of the eyes. Again very simple. Now we're in a home stretch and I had a few more ink accents areas that look too bare. A small tick mark or cross hatch really gives good character to larger areas. We have completed our inking. Phew that was a lot of work. Now let me show you how I made the base. Instead of a basic rubble base I want to try more of a street type base. I use a large 65mm base and add cork to the top. With the cork glued I carve out sections and give it more interesting features like cracks. Online you can find some cool asphalt mini painting products and they look great. But I didn't have them nor the money to spend on so I make my own. I take pvaglue and mix in some grays and blacks. I try to get the color that looks like asphalt, the darker side of it. It's a dark grey glue at this point and I just slather all over the cork. You can also add some sand to make sure if you want a little more texture. With the base dry the color is kind of glossy and asphalty. Yeah it's a word. Now let's spice it up. For this we start with some pigments. I use a few different yellows and reds to brighten some areas. Since this is a road I decide to apply pymates and streaks similar to how tires would make marks. Then I take some of the skeleton bone and streaky dry brush areas. Very light as a color can just be too much. Now what road would be complete without some markings? I decide to add a couple white lines. Using some painter's tape I lightly dab some gorgon hide and then pure white on top. It gives a nice texture to the line. With the stripes done let's sturdy them up a bit. I take more pigments and heavily put them on certain areas. And where I know is complete. So today we print a model, paint in the model, use a comic book style painting with inks and create a new custom street base. The best part is that it's easy to do and anyone can do it. I hope you enjoy my video and that you may be learning something new today. I would like to say thank you to all my patrons and thank you for watching.