Here's something you should have done on day one that I bet you haven't done yet. So why is your clutch adjustment important? You need to be able to fully disengage or fully engage the clutch when you're going in through gears. Otherwise you're going to prematurely wear out your clutch. And if you haven't done this yet, you are definitely prematurely wearing your clutch out. If you have never said the clutch in the first place when you first initially got the bike. So if you haven't done that, we're going to go ahead and show you right now on how to adjust your clutch properly. So how do we know that your clutch is out of adjustment? Well, per se you put it in the first gear, you're holding the clutch and the bike is still trying to take off on you. Well, clearly your clutch isn't fully disengaging even when you're pulling the clutch lever in, you're in first gear, you're still moving. Well, clearly you're not disengaging it. Or maybe you have it that even when the clutch is fully released, the bike still doesn't move because you haven't let the clutch actually engage. So once again, your clutch would be out of alignment. Or maybe you can feel it that when you've pulled it all the way back, that this is where the engagement is and it's way too far back in the pole and maybe you want your engagement to be closer towards the front half of the pole. So that is all going to be done through the adjustment of your clutch. Now before we get into today's video, I just want to say a massive shout out to all of the new subscribers and everyone who's been liking and commenting on all the videos. It's been really great and I've been loving all your guys' support and I really do appreciate it. Now the bike example that we're going to be using today is my Apollo RFZ. So there is three different adjustments points that you can change the clutch on these bikes. You got one on your clutch lever itself. This little spinning collar right here, you can set minor adjustments. You can set minor adjustments through this cable right here. This is your clutch line which feeds down into the casing. Now the third and most important one to adjust is going to be behind this cover which is what I bet you have never taken off and adjusted the clutch in behind here. So that is going to be number one. So when we're starting with our clutch adjustment, we're going to want to come down and we're going to want to start on this RFZ plate cover one. If you start with grabbing the clutch lever up here and adjusting it from there, you're already starting on the wrong foot. You need to start from the main adjustment point. This is going to be your actual real adjusting is going to be done underneath this RFZ plate cover. Then you can work up and do some adjustments on this line and then you do your final adjustments up on the actual lever itself. So go ahead. We're going to pop this cover off. So first things first, we're going to need a Phillips screwdriver preferably one with a fatter head so you can get more bite into these screws and then we're just going to go ahead and we're going to just pop these screws off. All right, now that we have our screws off, go ahead and we'll pop this cover off. This little flat head right here that's in the center of this nut, this is going to be your actual clutch adjustment. So to adjust this flat head, this silver nut that's on here, you're going to have to back this nut off. So you're going to need to grab a 10 mil. Okay, once this nut is cracked loose and I like to back it up all the way off so you can figure out where you're at. You're going to want to take that nut, you've got it loose, then you're going to take a flat head screwdriver. Now you're going to want to screw, I screw this out until I feel that there's no pressure being pressed on by this plate. So you'll feel like as you screw it out, just half to, I lose, there's just no, there's no tension on this, this black little nut in the middle that I'm screwing in. So as I screw it in, one, I can feel just as I get to that right there, it just starts to become any sort of tough or any sort of resistance on the screwdriver screwing it in. I'm going to go to right to about there is where I want it is right. Right where some tension is set on this plate and then the clutch is actually set accurately on the actual clutch slide down here. So once you have this center black flat head set in the correct position, which is going to be as soon as you screw it in, you'll start feeling it bite and get some tension up against this plate. Then that's when you know and make sure you have the nut because if you have the nut not backed off, there's always going to be tension against that plate with that nut. So you got to make sure you're back then nut off, screw it until you feel tension on the plate on the black flat head. Then you can take this 10 millimeter, tighten it back up. Okay and now you have your clutch adjustment set at the actual fork. So there is your first adjustment set. Go ahead, take our Phillips screws, go ahead, stick those back in, you're done in this section of the bike. Then here we have our secondary line adjustment. So for right now, this one we're just going to leave it set where it is and play with the settings from the rest of it up at the actual clutch lever. So we'll just leave this one for now. You can get some secondary fine adjustments out of this line here. So here we have our brake lever and our main adjustment is going to come from this guy right here. So as you screw this out, the clutch lever is going to get piled forward out towards the front of the bike. So if you want your clutch to engage further towards the front of the bike, you're going to want to screw this out. Whereas if you want to pull the clutch engagement point closer, you're going to want to screw this guy in. So as it sits right now, my engagement point is about halfway, which is where I like it. So I can usually grab it with one finger is enough to pull it in farther enough that I've disengaged it. So when I'm in a holy shit moment, I can usually just squeeze it enough that I don't have to actually pull it the last 20% of the way to disengage it. It's already disengaged when I get it to here. Now if you have some of these fancier levers, there's actually a secondary adjustment to sit where the lever actually sits in that motion of actuation. So if we look closely, if we take this screw and we screw it back up in, the lever is now going to set much closer towards the handlebar than if I take it out, screw back to where it was. Sorry, that's the wrong way. So you can see now it's even got an even closer in. So as I screw it back out, say somewhere here, now the lever is farther out than in. So we can go ahead and set that to the adjustment of where you'd like your clutch lever on how far you want to reach out with your fingers. Right? So now it's all the way out there that I can barely reach with one finger. I don't really like, so go ahead and screw it slightly back out. There you go. Now I got it back somewhere that I like where I can grab it up. So that secondary screw, these are aftermarket flip levers. So if you do wipe out, they bend completely 180 the other way. But yeah, if you guys are wanting to adjust this and screw it out, you just got to take this little collar here, back to collar off, and then you can screw this one in or out. But I don't really want to mess with that because my clutch is perfect as is. Then you go ahead, slide a little boot cover over, and then you don't get all the dust and debris. Just like that, you should have your clutch now all set up. So I just want to reiterate, make sure when you're doing your clutch adjustment, you start down with the one in behind this Apollo cover, then you can move to this one up here next to your carburetor. Then you can do the adjustments on your actual clutch lever. If you start adjusting it here and then try and adjust it down at this R of Z cover, well, you're doing it backwards and you're going to have to re-adjust your clutch lever anyway. So start down here, take the cover off. I guarantee you, no one's done this. If you just bought the bike, you should definitely take your clutch and get it aligned and get it correctly seated so that you're not prematurely wearing out your clutch or burn your clutch, slipping the clutch, you want that thing to grab and you want it to grab hard all the time for a long time. So if you guys take care of it, get your clutch in spec, and it'll last you. Once again, if you guys haven't enjoyed this video, make sure to leave a like, make sure to subscribe down below, leave any comments you have on any questions, and I will answer them. But please leave a like guys, it really does support the channel, it really makes us grow and get us shared a bunch. Make sure you subscribe because you've got a whole bunch more content always coming up. I would have another video up this week, but unfortunately I broke my GoPro mount when I was at last time, and I don't have any way of recording until my new aluminum mount comes in. So that should be in here within the next two, three days, and then hopefully you can film another video for you guys of some PipBike routing come this next weekend. But yeah, thank you guys so much for watching, and until next time, peace. 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