Closer to Baghdad than to Beijing. Xinjiang is home to 10 million Uighurs. In language, culture and religion, they're different. And China doesn't trust them. Every crowd has its informers hunting down traitors. You walk through this night food market, you think it's a normal, relaxed society, but Uighurs cannot express a political grievance, a religious grievance or criticize the government without risking many years in jail. So I can talk to them about the food that they're eating, or the hats they're wearing, but I cannot ask them about anything else because it's simply too dangerous. The surveillance state, Beijing says terrorists must be chased down like rats in the street. And the police budget has doubled. Counterterrorism trumps civil liberties. The moment Beijing's patients snapped. Tiananmen Square, October 2013. The attackers came 2,000 miles to strike at the heart of the nation, killing and maiming innocent tourists before setting their vehicle on fire. They filmed themselves before the attack. Brainwashed says Beijing, by jihadi videos from abroad. But is that the whole story of their radicalization? I heard reports the government had destroyed part of their mosque and they had vowed revenge. I'm trying to get to their village and talk to those who knew them. Our car was turned back by police. Our second attempt on a public bus. Beijing fears religion breeds terror. For anyone under 50, beards are not allowed. Veils discouraged. He confirms that government officials are not allowed to pray in mosques. At police checkpoints, young weegemen are targeted. Now it's their mobile phones that are suspect. They have to check the phone cards to see that they don't have any illegal materials on it. Apparently almost anything of a religious nature is now unacceptable to have on your phone. You're curbing up. What a wonderful woman you are. You're fighting for your father. No shooting. So the village where the Tiananmen attacker came from is just on the other side of that police call in a couple of miles. We've come a couple of thousands of miles and we're stuck here now because they've taken our passports from us because they made it quite clear that we're not going to get there. The state fears weegers and weegers fear the state. Walls have ears and no one dares speak up. When Beijing makes no distinction between those who voice aggrievance and those who resort to terror. Punishing the many for the violence of the few risks a war of attrition with China's weegers. Carrie Gracie, BBC News, Xinjiang.