So you've built your very first space marine and you're starting to wonder about how you're going to paint this guy After having a good look at the box art and maybe some pictures online You're in a situation where you're starting to doubt yourself where you can paint this model that good I too was in this situation But what if I told you that painting your very first ultramarine is a lot easier than you think and today I'm gonna show you just how One of the biggest problems with this hobby is that I tend to overthink too much Especially when it comes to painting At the start I get excited about painting the model all the things I could do and what it means for the model or the army But sure enough quickly I start thinking am I good enough to take what's in my mind and paint it onto this plastic figure Pantons shouldn't just be about panton. It's about creating something I tell myself that I'm breeding life into something lifeless and it doesn't matter if it's going to be good enough Just get over a stint and hump and enjoy the creativity of it And that's why I created this warhammer 101 series Just to show that if I can paint it you can so let's get started with this ultramarine the very first thing You need to do is the best the model with a primer This is what helps the pants stick to the model better and the pant wants our chip and off I use a gray spray from Halford's it's cheap for the studies and it works perfectly Then I spread it in by using my high-tech model holder stick and I add a bit of double-sided sticky tip to hold the models Then shake the crap out of the can and when ready head outside for the spraying Have the models about half a foot away from the can and what you need to do is spray and blast in a sweeping motion Make sure to get an even coverage across the model I'm not the clog of any of the details You just want to get a tin layer for the pant while the model is drying I'm going to start to wipe pants and brushes I need The price of pants builds up over time so I was trying to keep it as minimum as possible And for every panting session you're going to need some clean water, kitchen roll and your brush When it comes to brushes, I just buy whatever I can get I don't have expensive brushes or anything like that. I just build up a collection of GW and hobby shop ones But for this video, I'm going to be trying the brushes from the green stuff world starter brush set It's a nice little set that comes with 25 disposable brushes so just plenty to practice with For lighting I'm blessed with the clear sections of the roof So it's really bright in here when it's natural light But sometimes that style always the case when it's dark or else What I like to use is this arch LED light from green stuff world It's incredibly bright and easy to set up Other options are to get too small lamps like these from marigots That's before the left Ireland and use small day light bulbs These give you the best light as possible The very basics of panting the model is broken down into tree steps Basing, shading and highlighting Starting off with the main color of the model which is going to be McCregg blue I like to use a wet palette but any panting palette is okay to use The wet palette stops the pants from drying out more Get a bit of pant on your palette and add a small bit of water With the right mix the pants should have a silky milkish filter with And honestly that's the best way to describe it Not too thin, not too thick, just silky Spread it across the model as evenly as you can Making sure not to blow up in parts A second layer can be applied once the first layer has dried With the best coat dry I'm going to move on to anything that's black on the model Like the parts between the irmer and the weapons Just like before have the a baddened black tint down And if you go over any of the blue parts You can tidy it back up once the black is dry For the chest emblem the ultramarines have dares gold And to do that I'm going to go with Retributor Armor I'm also panting on the shoulder pads And any other emblems on the model The silver parts of the model is then panted with lead belcher This is the gun, the straps and the vents on this backpack And now for one of the trickiest parts of the model The IE's Start off with two tin layers of my fist on-rate instead of one tick layer And don't worry about being too careful here Because you can tidy up the blue Straight after once it's dried Another part that can be tricky to pant is white And under marine shoulder pads We're going to pant the arrows of Korax's wife It's important that the white is tinned down And panted with two to three tin layers But all those parts dry Is basically back up and tidy any parts panted by accent Right before we start adding the shedding I almost forgot to pant the leather belt The pouches and the holsters So I'm like to go with black for these But I like to go with a brown leather look With more and find brown But all the base coats on Is time to add some shedding Shedding has depth to the model and slides into the recesses They are easy to use But they are also easy to overuse I like to tin mine down with lamin medium or water Just a small bit though Shedding usually goes over all parts of the model But for the ultramarine I want to do some recess shedding Instead of panting it all over on the flat armor I'm just going to shade into the recess parts with nolan oil This way it takes a little bit longer But it lets you be more precise And mix the cleanup after it much easier The metal parts can be shaded by spreading the nolan oil all over it But make sure not to let it pull up If it does Just wipe your brush And let the shed soak back into the brush to remove the excess shed For the gold and the brown leather parts We're going to go with an air-graxed earth shedder This is a brown shed that works well in almost every color But it won't tack in the gold too much like the nolan oil would This model also has a grenade in his hand So I paint that with calabang green With the best colors on the sheddened done The model is looking like it's tabletop ready But to really add some finishing touches We're going to add some edge highlights Highlighten is what really makes the part of the model pop out It's a bit of a long process but worth it in the end Once you have your calgary blue ready You'll want to have just a small bit on the brush I like to twist my brush across the palette and bring it to a fine point Then I use the edge of the brush across the edges of the armor This can take a lot of practice to get the edges just right But take your time and keep your hand as steady as you can For the leather I go with a scraped brown on the edges I use the same technique to highlight the stronghold silver on the gold parts And wire-brossed green on the grenade But the model done all that's left is the base For this I like to keep it simple A scoop up some ashtonite granite and spread it across the base This doesn't need to be perfect And I add little bits of the undermarines boots for greater detail The best thing about ashtonite granite is that it's very easy to use And easily transforms a plain base in minutes Once tried I shared it with air-graxed earthshed And then I used a technique called dry brush to add donslawn to finish it off Dry brush is simply adding some paint to your brush Brushing most of it off on a towel or a textured palette Until it's almost gone And then brushing it across lightly So there's just enough paint to catch the ray as the area is With all that done your oachermine is more than ready for the battlefield When broken down Model painting can be an easy process to follow Step one, base your model Step two, add shading and step tree at your highlights in Just take your time, tin your pants and enjoy the process I hope this video helped and join me next time for Warhammer 101 Where I'm sure I'll help the paint a spacer marine blow to angel Thanks for watching and I'll see you guys in the next one