I want to challenge myself to do cyanotype printing in a way I've never done before. One of the things I've never done with cyanotype printing is printing on glass. And that's what I'm going to do in this video. To start with, I bought these very cheap picture frames to use their glass as a base for my prints. After that, it was time to mix the emulsion. To do so, I first measure and then mix my emulsion based on the instruction on the packaging. You can also use a cyanotype kit that comes in one of these bottles. This will save you some time and make the mixing a bit easier. In this case, I mixed 100 milliliters of emulsion. Now, if you have ever tried to do a cyanotype print on a smooth surface like coated canvas or metal or glass, you might have realised that it doesn't really work. You need something to make it stick. For that purpose, I'm going to use gelatin. If you want to try this yourself, make sure it doesn't have any additives like sugar or whiten. I mixed 20 grams of gelatin to my 100 milliliters of room temperature in March. Make sure the emulsion isn't too hot or otherwise you'll get clumps of gelatin. Here, you can see the consistency that the cold emulsion should have. After having mixed everything, now it's time to heat up the mixture. I found that a temperature of 40 or 45 degrees Celsius works best. Don't make it any hotter than that, or it will ruin your emulsion. Now, it will start smelling a bit. However, the next step is the coating of the glass. To do that, apply some emulsion into a plate of glass. Then proceed to move the plate slowly to create a very thin coating of gelatin. When I've achieved an even spread, I drain the emulsion. And that's it. Now, like with regular cyanotypes, you need to wait until the emulsion is completely dry. This might take anywhere between 30 minutes to a few hours, depending on the thickness of your coating and room temperature. Out the way. When the emulsion is completely dry, you can now wipe away any stains you got on the back of the plate. As you can see, I don't handle the plate too carefully, but be aware that you don't want to get any water on the front of the plate or otherwise that might ruin your emulsion. After that, it is time for printing. I start by placing a piece of black paper below everything. On top of the paper, I place my coated piece of glass. In this case, I'm placing it with the coated side facing down. In retrospect, the other way round would have been a batter corn and made the image a bit sharp. However, I place my transparency like on a standard cyanotype. And finish everything off by squeezing it together with a piece of glass and some pieces of steel. When it comes to exposure, I found that it takes a bit longer than a standard cyanotype. So instead of, let's say, 20 minutes, I'm going to expose the print above 30. Finally, I'm able to develop the print. I did handle it a bit more careful than I normally would for paper cyanotype. However, I found that the glass print is actually quite a bit more robust than I had anticipated. And here it is. I believe our thought that work turned out rather nicely. It could be a bit sharper and easier composition that fits the medium of the batter. But besides that, I'm quite happy. Maybe I'm going to use this margin to print on Matallon, Canvas, in the future. Other than that, I hope that you enjoyed this video and maybe found something interesting or inspiring. If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. And if you want to see more of these weekly videos, subscribe. Until then, see you next week.