Hello everybody. Our next camera is the Terran Vic. It might be VIC, very important camera. I don't know. Terran and Vic, VIC, both capitalized in the manual so that didn't give me any clues. It's a Japanese rangefinder from 1962 so this sucker is 57 years old. It has a coated Terranar 55-45 millimeter lens, goes from F2.8 to F22. That's mounted in a citizen LX leaf shutter which goes from a 30th to one 250th per second plus bulb. It's a little bit odd that they used a citizen shutter because Terran started as a shutter company. It has a selenium meter. It's coupled to the shutter and the aperture and the shutter and aperture are normally linked when the aperture selectors in this little slot on the side of the lens. The EV is set and it's changing the aperture and the shutter. There's a dot at the top of the rangefinder and it shows you red if you're under and yellow if you're over and that's made it to these arrows on the lens barrel. So if it's showing you red, move it in the direction of the red arrow, kind of it's showing you yellow, you move it in the direction of the yellow arrow and once it turns black that means that you have proper exposure. Amazingly for a selenium meter this old this sucker is pretty accurate. You can defeat that coupled exposure by moving the aperture selector out of the slot on the barrel and then you have to set the shutter speed first because like I just did you might capture the aperture selection. So you select your shutter speed and then take this guy to the slot and select your aperture. This has to be undone, it has to be out of the slot where it won't even let you select bulb. And that's his dot here and the shutter speeds on the bottom. So I just accidentally recaptured it and it stopped at a 30th of a second. So I'm going to undo it and then let me move the dot over to the bulb selection. Film speed is set here on the bottom of the barrel as detents. It's kind of like the aperture selector. You move it down a little bit, move it into the next slot and that's good for ISO 10 to 300. You open the back with this slider on the left side you pull it up. This one's a little bit stiff. But then to load the film you still do have to lift the rewind lever, put your cartridge in, bring it across. There's nice easy to use slots on the take-up spool. And then once you've got your film loaded you manually set or reset your film counter. You move this guy with these little metal knots and it only goes clockwise. So you bring it around to S which is fairly standard on cameras. And then there are three blank frames between S and 1. So if you load this in a dark bag you could probably set this to get two more shots to account for what was pretty exposed when you were loading the film. The RF patch in this guy is a little bit hard to see. This nice knot on the front as you're focusing not. So something like the white edge of my camera notes it's fairly easy to get it lined up. But in some light it's really hard to see. I don't know if that was the way it was designed or just because of this thing's age. But in the right light it's nice and crisp and you can see it and get your focus spot on. It has parallax marks. It doesn't correct for parallax but it shows you a line on this side in kind of a rounded corner. So it shows you what's going to be cut off if you're shooting less than two meters. It has a cold shoe and the sink connection here on the front. The manual says X-Sync but it also says a 30th but then they also only refer to flash bulbs. It is a leaf shutter so with an electronic flash it should sink at all speeds. I haven't done a lot of testing. I did use flash for a couple of photos. First what I ran through this was some of the film photography project Retro Chrome, the bulk expired Ectochrome that they got from a government auction. My chemicals were too old. Not that I had used too many rolls through them but they do not have staying power. Some of them look like negatives. Some of them have solarization. It's kind of weird because the first developer for slide film is essentially a black and white developer. It looks like my second developer, the color developer which takes out the black silver and works with a couple of dies in the film. So it looks like this time the second developer wore out from storage, not from use. Anyway I wanted to be kind of fair to this camera so I shot a half roll of T-Max 100 and I got much much better results. It's a good camera. The slide film is not the camera's fault. So I've been hanging on to this guy for a while and shooting another roll through it. It's dirt simple. It doesn't have much of a shortest shutter speed and only going to a 250th but for its vintage 1962 this guy is nice and it's in good shape so I'm issued with it again. Until then I'll see you then. Love that silent shutter.