So, this is about the sound I was talking about in the last video. As you can see that this coils look really pretty good. So, let me show you how I build it. So, first of all, I printed out the layout of the coil. Then I drilled holes in the board and screwed in some screws. This screws will be used as a guide for coil shape. This winding process is quite labor intensive, but instead of doing this, you can make a ring shaped coil and then press it into shape. This simplifies the process to such an extent that you can make, say, 10 coils for 1 kilowatt motor in 1 hour. For the first prototype when I use multiple coils, I spend about 1 hour for each coil. And this was because I want the coil to hold its shape, so I apply the epoxy after each layer or so. This method I am doing here has a disadvantage that you can theoretically make only flat coils. After you remove the screws, this coil can be pressed and its head can be reduced. I am fixing its shape right now by using small pieces of copper wire. This also forces the coil to have circular cross-section. Next, I make a mold with one side of this flat. The coil was placed in the mold and poured by epoxy. After pouring the epoxy, I realized that it would be a good idea to have a hole in center for shaft. So at the last moment, I placed some heavy round object at the center of the mold. When the epoxy has been cured, I liberated from the mold and performed a quick test. I found that the hole effect sensor can work even from the other side of the coil. Only now I have realized that what you see here is that this doesn't require shaft coupling. You can mount the rotor on the workshop and then you can mount it to the center. I found that the whole effect sensor can work even from the other side of the coil. Only now I have realized that what you see here is that this does not require shaft coupling. You can mount the rotor on the workshop and the stator can be mounted independently. Of course, there are many disadvantages and limitations, but as you can see, it can be done quite easily. Now that I know that this coil works quite well, I can fix the bearing to the coil plate. To do so, I use the layout of the coil once again and line it up with the coil that I have. Then I lined up the bearing and sealed it so epoxy doesn't get to the moving parts. Once again, I used epoxy to hold the bearing in place. I also poured epoxy on the coil so it will not vibrate that much. Now we can mount the rotor to the bearing. Previous version of the motor was constructed quite different, so vibrations there were absolutely minimal. As I am looking at this construction, it's so simple that I believe that this is the only way to mount the bearing. Now we can mount the rotor to the bearing. Previous version of the motor was constructed quite different, so vibrations there were absolutely minimal. I believe that this is the cheapest motor per watt that can be built. However, to support this, I have to make some measurements. To measure the output power of your motor, you have to know what is your torque at given speed. You saw me using a piece of aluminum to break the motor. This is in fact a proper way to introducing dynamic load. So in the one of the next videos, I will make a simple jig for measuring torque. Thank you.