What is up guys welcome back to the channel. I know it's been a hot minute since we've been in Nicarage with a bike on the lift. But today we got my 2021 road glide up on the lift and the reason for that is because I got to make an internal clutch adjustment. I'm just getting ready to do my 10k service here coming up pretty soon but I don't have all the oils and what not to do it right now. The clutch is starting to slip pretty bad so I want to take care of it. I know the clutch is starting to slip because when I go to take off it's very hesitant and feels like it wants to stall out as well as just going through gears I can tell it's lagging a little bit getting into gear as well as if I have it pretty heavily under a load I can tell it's slipping a little. It's nothing crazy but bad enough to where it's becoming annoying for me riding the bike so we're gonna go adjust the clutch. So in order to do an internal clutch adjustment we're gonna have to readjust the cable part as well so that's pretty easy but I'll go over some of the tools you need. We'll need another socket but I can't remember the size off the top of my head so when we get there I'll be sure to note the socket size and what I'm referring to is a little jam nut that's in the actual clutch basket itself but right here we have a 3H stride with a T27 to take off the Derby cover screws. We have a 732 Allen which is going to be making the actual adjustment at the clutch basket and I have a flat tip screwdriver for the actual clutch cable it's a little tab I got my magnetic tray for my Derby cover bolts and a paper towel to lay the Derby cover on so that way you don't scratch it. So first off I'm gonna pop this Derby cover off real quick and then we're gonna I'll engage and disengage the clutch so we can watch the basket and kind of see what it's doing and then I'll go over the steps on how to put slack into these newer clutch cables and then I'll walk you through the process on how to make the internal adjustment and go back and set the clutch adjustment for your lever. so I've already popped the Derby cover there's always going to be some fluid here that seeps out. I just want to go ahead and wipe it down real good so then that way when you go to put your Derby cover back on you make sure you don't have a leak. I'm going to go ahead and engage and disengage the clutch and we should see the basket here. I mean I'm no expert but it kind of looks like part of the basket's releasing at a different point. It doesn't look like it's all moving as one kind of looks like it's lagging a little bit. Yeah like right there I saw like that part lagging at the top went in a little faster than the bottom so we're gonna move over to the clutch cable. I'm gonna show you how to put some slack into that and then we can come and start our adjustments here. All right so this is your clutch cable right here but I'm gonna go ahead and do is pop this cover off here for this retainer. So that aside for now this cover just slides right up and then this little hard to see there's a red clip here so we're just going to go from the back side and just pop this clip out like so and what we're gonna do is I pull the cable down and then we're just gonna lock that tab back in the place and then if we go check our clutch lever there should be some slack. Yep as you can see all that slack within the clutch lever so we are good to see to the derby cover. So that's the jam nut I was talking about earlier. We're gonna use a 11-16th deep well and this is gonna be a little hard to break free here because the whole basket wants to move. All right got that broke free just bring it off. I like to do it kind of close to halfway just so that way when you make your adjustment it doesn't get caught up on the jam nut and then you're not sure if it's the tension from the jam nut stopping you or if it's the actual clutch adjustment. We're gonna go clockwise until you feel resistance and then the actual spec is half turn to a full turn so we're gonna go to a half turn and then just a little bit more and then we can put our jam nut back down and tighten that back up and then now obviously our clutch cable is loose so we can't really check the basket too well. So at this point we're gonna go adjust the clutch cable and then we'll check how the basket moves. Same more deal, pop the clip, just a little red tab and this is gonna adjust itself. So right there it's all done all you gotta do now is set the red tab and your actual lever is adjusted. So we're gonna go check the lever and go check the derby cover. So as you can see the cable is back to the little bit of free play that we want and at this time it is always a good habit to pop your clutch cable off here when it's loose and drop some lube in there. So back down to the clutch basket now we're gonna check. So it looks like it's a lot better so we're gonna call that done. We just got to reinstall the derby cover. Now you might have to go physically ride the bike and make sure everything shifts smooth but that is the process that you were to do. You're gonna loosen up and put slack in the clutch cable back that jammed out off using your 732nd Allen go clockwise until you feel resistance then back it off counterclockwise to a half to a full turn and then reset your jam nut and set your clutch cable. So that's pretty much the gist of it so let's get this derby cover put back on. I will drop the torque spec for the derby cover now. All right now that the derby covers back on we're gonna go and clean up the clutch side. So now that this is all done and that little lock is set we're just gonna pull this back down. And then if you have handlebars the little cheat is to hook the cable first and then pop it onto your frame room. Adding clean up the fingerprints on your clutch cable as well as your derby cover and then take the bike for a ride and make sure you like the adjustment of your clutch but that is pretty much it. So that is all there is to adjusting your new cable clutch on your Milwaukee and that's how you do an internal clutch adjustment. Like I said I'm coming up on my 10,000 miles service so it is kind of typical I'm around like 9400 miles so that is about the time at each 5k service that you should pretty much do a clutch adjustment anyway. So I'm just doing it now like I said because I don't have the oils right away but I thank you guys for tuning in today make sure to smash that like button, comment and subscribe and make sure to ride safe and I'll catch you guys on the next one. Peace!