Welcome back to Metal Tips and Tricks, my name is Dale. This is the third part of making a lead screw. In the very first one, you saw me adapt a pre-made Acme All Thread and put this end on it. In the second video, you saw me prepare the original nut that was threaded in here and where I cleared out the threads to make room for this new nut. And this nut is a precision ground nut and they're very expensive. They cost about 45 bucks. But I did not think I could make one as well as one I could buy and that's what I did especially in the timeline. So what we need to do is turn this down. And the challenge is to turn something like this down is how do you hold it? I could put it in a three jaw chuck or a four jaw chuck, turn it one side, flip it over, re-indicate it and turn it down. But honestly, that's a lot of work. So what we're going to go to is we're going to go to lathe dog and an adjustable mandrel. These mandrels are great because they're a lot more sizes you can get to and of course this hole is not a normal size hole. And we're going to simply press it on here, chuck it in the lathe and go to work. But let me go into that a little bit more detail after I press this on. I'll be back in just a minute. Well, that didn't take long. So I've got the nut pressed onto the arbor. Now let's talk about turning between centers a little bit. A lot of people want to set up a face plate that holds the lathe dog. It really is a great way to do it because you can also lock the arm in or the leg on this and keep it from rattling around. But since we're going to be continually turning this in the same direction, it really is an factor. The other thing that you're going to need is a center on this side. Now I've got a piece of six sided stock in here. I love this because it just fits onto the jaws really, really well. And I actually mark one of the surfaces as a number one. Always lines up to the chuck jaw, number one. So it's in a little bit closer. But no matter what when you put these in, you still have to turn this down and take your time and get that right. The other thing I like about turning between centers is if this was a real critical part, I can take it to my OD grinder and do the final finish on that. So it's really a great, great way of working with material on the lathe and holding it in place. So I'm going to simply bring this up, tighten it in place, things you need to check, double check your chuck, make sure it's tight because what will happen sometimes, and this happens on any material. But in a situation like this, I think it's a little more critical is as you tighten up the tail stock, it can push in this center and, well, loosen up over time and that's something we don't want to have happen because as you can see, we don't hold on with this with a lot of surface. So now we've got that in and I've got it in there pretty tight because this is also a live center so it rotates easily without friction. Now I'm also doing this on the end co-laid and I'm taking advantage of the weakness of the end co-laid and turning it into a strength. If I were to go over to the closing, the closing has a seven and a half horse motor. When I'm working on that, I make quarter-inch cuts all the time and the danger of making a quarter-inch cut is, well, this can't handle it, this arbor, this set up, and I want to go with a smaller lathe just so I'm not, well, what I want to say, I wanted to be restrained by this two horse motor so I don't make too deep a cut and damage something. Let's find out what diameter we need to make this. And we're going to simply just come in here with a snap gauge. We're going to take a measurement. This is one of the great advantages to digital is I don't care what number that is. I'm going to zero it out. Now we're at zero. Every time I make a measurement with this, I know how much further I need to go. So right now I need to go almost an inch and a third to bring this down. So I'm going to speed you guys up. It's rating about 2000s over but we're going to test it before I make another cut. It's one of the great things about working with the centers is you can just take it out, push it in. So that's that first lip that I left in. It's a darn, we are close. So it looks like I need to make another 2,000, 3,000s off. And I'm not trying to make, this is not going to be a forced fit. It's not going to be a press fit. It's not going to be a heat and shrink fit. And the reason is this casting is just too thin and I'm afraid that it would crack under the pressure of shrinking. I'm also not going to solder it because if I soldered it, what I need to do is put it in an oven and slowly bring it up to temperature because this end is going to expand a lot bigger rate than this end. So it's going to cause problems. I think gluing is going to be my solution to this one. So there we are, the final cut. Let's see how it lines up. I think that's a great fit. Let me go over the press. I'm going to pop this off. So that came out well. It's interesting how small this is now. It looks like a child's toy compared to what it was. So let's put on some gloves. We're going to glue this up. I already cleaned the inside of this out with a bright cleaner and also this surface here. But look at that fit. It's just right now. If it was too tight, there would be no place for the glue. Right now it's tight enough. It's almost too tight for solder. So I'm glad I went with glue. We're going to take some super glue here, some gorilla super glue. This is the real thick gel type. I'm going to put some on the inside, the beginning, some on the backside here or the front side. One of the interesting things about super glue is its catalyst is water. So just remember that if it's a moist day, you're going to have a problem. Now we're just going to get this in here. There we go. So here we are. I don't even know if you could tell that this was repaired. It's just such a clean, clean fix. And also this lead screw. I don't know if that was an interesting idea to actually buy Acme all thread. That's already pre-ground. Now granted it was very expensive. The three foot rod was, I know $40.50, the nut was $40.50. So I've got $100 end of this little project, but it should last me for the rest of my life with a surface grinder. Well here we go. Another project completed in the shop. Hope you guys have enjoyed this. Please give me some thumbs up. You know, click that little button down there. It only takes a second. Thumbs up. Give me some positive comments. And until next time, go out in your shop, build something cool. Thanks.