Hi, I'm Ruthie from the Featherweight shop. And today here on part 4 of getting to know your singer Featherweight, we will be showing you from start to finish how to thread your singer Featherweight. To begin, you will need to turn the hand wheel, which is technically called a balance wheel, towards you, until the thread take up lever is at its highest position, like I'm showing you here. Now you will need to determine what kind of thread you are using, is it a stack spool or a cross wound spool? A stack spool has the thread going round and round. Stacking the threads one on top of the other. A cross wound spool has a thread that is wound on the spool and a crisp cross pattern. As you can see on this orafil spool of thread. If you are using a stack spool of thread, then place the spool on the spool pin. Your thread will go directly from the spool to the first upper thread guide, like this. If using an orafil cross wound spool, then it helps to remove the bottom orange disc, so that the thread doesn't get caught. This will help the thread unwind smoothly as it goes to the needle. With a cross wound spool, it is highly recommended that you use a thread stand that is designed specifically for the Featherweight. My daddy has an excellent video tutorial on the Featherweight Schoolhouse on the importance of using a thread stand. Cross wound spools require the thread to be lifted off the spool, versus being pulled from the side, which causes a wobble of the spool. Bring the thread first to the stands upper guide. Then back down to the thread stands eyelet hole, threading from right to left. Then directly over to the first upper thread guide on the machine. The remaining steps for threading the machine will be the same for all spool types. Place your right hand on the thread to hold it taught for the next couple of steps. Use in your left hand grab the thread and bring it straight down and slip it between the tension discs. Make sure it is between the discs and not in front or behind them. Bring the thread around and under the take up spring. The take up spring should raise up as the thread is brought all the way around and into the retaining fork. Then direct the thread behind the wire thread guide directly above the tension unit. Next go up and through the take up lever threading from right to left. Bring the thread down and into the eyelet on the face plate. Usually you can catch the thread from the back of the eyelet. Bring the thread to the next lower wire thread guide as well as the last needle clamp thread guide directly above the needle. Some feather weights have this last guide situated in such a way that the thread enters from the right. Remember from our last video how important it was to have the flat set of the needle facing left? Well this last threading step is just as important too for proper stitch formation. The thread goes through the needle from right to left or an easy way to remember is inside out from the inside of the machine to the outside. If the thread or needle is difficult to see then be sure to try our super easy machine needle threader in the shop. It takes away the hit and miss guesswork and easily threads the needle. The instruction manual says to draw about 2 inches of thread through the eye of the needle, but my mom and I like to pull several inches out to have more to work with before we sew. Now I'm going to show you this whole process one more time zoomed out so you can see how quick and easy threading a feather weight can be. Once you get used to it you zip through machine threading every time no matter what kind of threads will you use. Be sure to review videos 1, 2 and 3 and the getting to know your feather weight series because our next tutorial will be all about how to pull the bobbin thread up to the surface and prepare for sewing.