We can do it. We got some cool parts in. Recluse. Torque drive setup. We want to go over this for you guys. Just got them in. A bunch of them. Also the Baker compensator. We have a bunch of guys that were replacing stock comps on stock bikes and then some of our bigger builds have problems with compensators so we do deletes. This is for the guy that wants the bike to have the bike feel stock but not have it break. So Mike's down there. Let's go bother him. Let's do a video. Let's get going. Look what I made. Look what he made. We're going to upgrade your comp and give you a torque drive. The reason why we want to go over this comp too is because when we go to a comp delete that we run a lot on our big motors at idle the bikes are going to chatter. The chain inside the primary is going to chatter and make noise. So for the guy that wants a smoother operation wants it to sound like stock under idle. It doesn't want the chatter. It isn't going for the most performance to the street. Once the motor is going to beat everyone else but still wants it nice and smooth and quiet. This is the setup we're installing. Let's talk about the torque drive from LaCruz. So the torque drive setup fits in your factory hub and it's going to have a little less pull or stock pull is what they claim. So what we've noticed is it's actually a little bit less is what we feel after we've broken it in which breaking is 100 to 200 miles. Why the clutch is better is we're going to 31 complete plates in your clutch setup. We're a stock Harley-1 18. So with the 31 plates in here compared to the 18 it's 56% more torque to the road and how they're doing it is they're doing it with thinner plates to put it in the stock clutch pack. I thought it was magic. All right, thinner plates. We're getting it to put it in there. These guys are engineered to grab the oil and fill between the plates when you're disengaging the clutch. So that's why it's a little different groove setup. When these are being installed there are certain grooves and we have to line them all up to make sure all these are in line perfectly with the rest of them so that oiling system works great. So the reason they've done it this way is so we can run the spring pack on them and we can do a stock configuration where the pull is the same exact as stock or actually a little less cleaning. So if you want a bunch of power and you don't want to have to go with the real high performance clutch that has real high tension on them this is the new setup we're running on them. Also this setup doesn't grab as quick or as hard as some of the other clutches we've been putting in the bigger bikes. This one's going to put all the torque to road but it's going to feel nicer. It's not going to let you go and it's just grabbing quicker than you'd like and you're getting locked up too fast. This guy feels more like stock but delivers all that torque and horsepower of our high performance builds we're putting on him. So this is the everyday rider, the touring guy. He's not racing. We built a big motor for his bike. Lots of power, doesn't want to break, doesn't want the clutch to slip and doesn't want to failure your layer down the road. So we have some other cool pieces Mike sent over because we want to go over the whole setup we run when we do something like this for the individual we just explained. And I believe this will hold over 200 horsepower. Going to recluse. 200 horsepower feels like stock. Yes. But a couple of other points about this one of the things that you want to do when you're changing your clutch anytime is on the basket you can see these little marks right here. So if these are divots that's created from the driven plates chattering back and forth when the clutch is engaging and disengaging and if it causes any kind of divots inside here you need to replace your basket. Don't install a new clutch or continue to run a clutch with a divoted basket and that's always a good time to upgrade to one of the billet baskets you can see we've gone over these before but you can see the difference in the gussets and the strength. In the billet baskets we run trash and we also run barnets and when you install these take it away we use basket sleeves these guys are little they don't look like much but they actually are going to help the wear of your basket and they're going to prolong the life of this design the sleeves of power. In your stock basket or maybe on your fancy trash baskets or bar net baskets basket of your choice we don't care they both work well. This guy right here is going to go in your stock basket so Mike was just talking about the divots and how they wear on your basket this guy is going to even out the load on the teeth of your basket that way you're not getting the marks that way the clutch is able to move in and out. What happens when you get those divots and marks when the clutch you release it by grabbing your lever and you want them to expand they're getting caught in there and some of them aren't releasing as much as the rest of them because they can't they're hitting a a little teeth mark a groove a little wall there so they can't expand so this guy if you look real thin in there it's going to slide in there and then your clutch plates are going to slide right in just like so. And that's designed only for the recluse basket this isn't something that you can purchase and install in your basket and then rerun your stock plates and because it runs the length what it's doing is it's dissipating the load against the whole tooth instead of just a little bit here a little bit here all over which wears it's actually going to spread out the load. He said dissipating the load. So another thing that we like to run when we set this up we upgrade you know the Baker Compassator is a great addition over stock you can see they have increased Camlow geometry over stock and they've also implemented a circular oil design which helps longevity of the life of the Compassator they've also decreased the size of the spring pack over stock you can see how large this is compared to the Baker any kind you can reduce rotating mass equals less friction less parasitic draw and more power. We like to run our tensioner whenever we're doing any kind of builds that are going to create this kind of power and it is a spring tensioner with a hydraulic lock so it actually pulls the fluid up from the bottom of the primary as the tensioner is expanding and runs it through a chamber via vacuum and then this ball bearing stops the fluid from being able to come out so the chain tensioner will adjust up but it's very difficult to push it back down you can see that on one of these once it's hydraulically locked obviously this one is not yet but you can barely push it down it'll stay this stiff all the time that's the only movement you'll ever get out of this and this is set up with the Baker Compassator and the recruse clutch you can see it uses the same stock pub and look look how easy it is to squeeze this for your pull that's a 200 horsepower clutch and the chain flexing causes a lot of expedient wear on the especially the OEM components when you're putting this kind of pressure on the on the secondary drive you know it does look like all this bad ass stuff always gets covered though it does you never see any of it cool shit