Okay, to begin our film development, we need to mix our developer that we're going to use for our film here. The developer we're using is working solution of HC110 dilution B, HC110 dilution B, and we're mixing it one part of the concentrate to seven parts of water. We're wanting to end up making 24 ounces of developer for two roles of film that we'll do in our processing. So we've got little measuring cup here for us to be able to measure out our three ounces that we'll use. So I'm just going to take this real quickly and fill up three ounces. One. And two. And three here. And then we add water to it to bring it up to 24 ounces here. So we're just going to take here and bring our tempered water in until we reach 24 ounces for our developer. The next thing we need to do is check the temperature of the developer. So we're going to let this thermometer set here and come up with the temperature so we can figure out what our processing time is going to be. And our chart on the wall here tells us based on temperature of 68, 70 or 72, how long we're going to process using this developer with the particular type of film. So we're using TMAX 400. So at 68 degrees at six minutes, 70 degrees, 5 and a half, 72 degrees, it's going to be five minutes for our development time. Now our developer is a little warm so it's going to be a little warmer than 72. We can actually extrapolate out a little further and say that at 75 degrees we would process at 4 and a half minutes for our processing time. So as this is checking our temperature here, I also have measured out our fixer so that it's ready to go for our process. I also have measured out some water to use for our stop bath so that we can have that ready to go when we reach that point. So our steps that we have going through is first we're going to do a presoak where we're going to add water to the tank itself just to be able to prepare it for the developer. Then we'll start our, pour that out and add our developer to start the development time. At the end of the development time, then we'll do a water rinse or fixer or I'm sorry, the stop bath. At the end of the development time, we'll do a stop bath which will be just the water for 15 seconds and pour that out. And then we'll go in with the fixer and do the fixer for eight minutes and atch take that same as we would do for the developer. We could also do a final step after that called hypochlear. The hypochlear is there to help me able to make sure that the fixer has been removed from the film. But in most cases for 35 millimeter film, that's not a real issue. So we're just going to do our standard wash of five minutes and then at the end of that we'll do our photo flow for hanging up. So we've determined that we're going to use five minutes for our development based on the temperature on our thermometer. And so our first step is going to be adding room temperature water to the tank so we can do our pre-web. So again, we just want to take the orange cap off, leave the other cap on well. And we're just going to fill this up and start our timer. And we're just going to do this for one minute. Once the tank's full, I'm just going to put my lid on. We're going to agitate a little bit. We're going to wrap it on the edge of the sink to knock off any bubbles that might happen to rest onto the film. And just kind of do that for one minute. So what we're actually doing our development process and the development step, we're going to agitate once every 30 seconds during that time as it's going through. So basic agitation is going to be taking and turning the tank upside down twice, kind of gently, and then setting it down. It would just be our agitation for it. So at the end of our one minute pre-wet, we're going to pour out our water. You may see some color change in the water when you pour it out, depending on the kind of film that you're using. Okay, once the water's all out, we'll take our developer. We're going to set our timer. Again, we're going to do five minutes. So I'm going to kind of get it all set for five. And once I pour it in, we'll start that timer. Again, no need. And pour it in slow. It will go in very quickly. So you can just pour it right directly in. And once I'm set to go, we're just going to start that process. So there it goes. Very quickly. And we'll put our top on. And we'll start with that first agitation two times and let it set. So again, this agitation will go through the whole time. Every 30 seconds, we're just going to take and inverse the tank to be able to knock off any air bubbles that might happen to be in there. And it also helps in circulating and making sure that you have fresh developer against the film itself for even processing. So as we come up to our next 30 seconds here, we're just going to do that same agitation again. And we would continue on with this all the way through the end of our time. As we reach the end of our development time, we're going to prepare to pour out the developer that's going to go down the drain and then pouring in our stop bath. So we can go ahead and take off the orange lid, prepare our stop bath solution, just water as it happens to be here. And we're going to pour out our developer down the drain. And then we're going to add our stop bath, which is again, just water. You can also use an acidic acid solution for stop bath. And I'm just kind of filling it all the way to the top here. Okay. And again, we're going to do this for just 15 seconds. So I'm just going to turn the second hand to 15 and kind of add state the whole time here. So again, this is just stopping the action of the developer so that it doesn't go in further. Into that time, we're going to pull this off and pour that water out. And we go to our last step, which is the fixer. So with the fixer, our time is going to be eight minutes. So I'm just going to kind of start it there. So when it reaches that point, I'll start pouring it in. Again, I'm just kind of filling it up. I'm making sure it's covering the film. And we're going to do that same kind of agitation. I'll start off with the first one. And then every 30 seconds afterwards, I'm just going to do that same two inversions for the entire time afterwards. And so as we come up to our time, again, just general inversions to help circulate the chemistry and keep it fresh on it there. As we approach the end of the fix time, we're going to recycle the fixer. So I'm going to take and pour this back into our original container so we can put it back and be able to reuse it for more film. So once we have this all in, actually our film is ready to be able to let out an light, but we can go ahead and do our wash process. So you can either take the lid off or you can just take and place the hose into the air and turn our water on and let it run for five more minutes for our complete wash time. So as we reach the end of the wash time, we would be prepared for our last step, which is the flow flow. The flow flow is a wetting agent to be able to help keep from getting water spots on the film as it dries. So when we reach the end of our wash time, we'll turn the water off and take our tank and we can open it up everything's light tight and we'll take our reels out with our film and we would place it into the flow flow for 30 seconds. And again, it's just kind of helping knock off any water droplets that we'll have when we hang up the film on here. So as we approach that time, we'll pull the film out. Now this is practice film so it's not going to have any images on it here. But what we would do is then take our reel and open it up so that we can be able to grab the end of the roll right here to pull that film out so that we can be able to then take this and we would take our film and take it to the film dryer, hang it up and let it dry for about 20 minutes.