Hi, I'm Michael Breem with EV-West, and I'm Matt Hober. Today we're going to talk a little bit about the drivetrain and our BMW M3. We've got a lot of inquiries about this car ever since. We set a record last year for the street legal electric class at Pike's Peak. And it's the same car that's in the famous video with Bill Cazwell, the big old EV grin. So a lot of people wonder, you know, what's involved in making a system like this. It's pretty simple. It's 2.9-gain 11-inch motors hooked up to a power glide, two speed transmission without a torque converter. So it's a direct drive system. It's pretty unique. We're going to go through step by step. Matt's going to show you how to put the motors together and couple them, and then hook them up to the power glide transmission. So we're just going to show you how to do this, and hopefully you can put one of these in your own project. Yeah. All right. Let's get started. So one of the first things that we need to do here is we need to cut these shafts down. It's going to come pretty standard universal. They're about three, four inches long. Here at EV West, we really like to make everything as compact as possible. So we actually have our inner motor flanges down to three inches. So what that's going to mean is we need to cut these motor shafts down to just a little less than an inch and a half each. And then we can couple these together. All right. So I have my caliper set in an inch and a half. And what I'm going to use is a 12 volt battery to spin the motor shaft as I mark it with my permanent marker. All right. Now that our motor is marked, what we're going to do is use the same 12 volt battery, and we're going to spin the shaft while we cut it. And what that's going to do is it's going to ensure a true cut all the way through. I'm just going to use a regular old 4 inch cut off wheel. You can get these at home depot or anything like that. Let's go ahead and do it. Okay. As you can see at the end, I kind of, you know, I took the tool and just kind of ground over the end and over the edge of the splines, and that's to knock down any kind of burrs or anything like that. They would hinder the coupler to slide on to there. All right. So we're finished with the first motor. Let's go ahead and do the same thing with the second one. What you're going to want to do is it is an inch and a half from this face here out, or you can do an inch from this step here, which is already a half inch out. Let's go ahead and set this up here. Okay. Now our mark is set. Let's go ahead and cut it off. All right. So we have our two motor shafts cut down here now. Let's go ahead and put the coupler between the two and push them together and make sure that our distance between here is a little less than three inches, maybe 20,000s under. There we go. Okay. Now we'll just check our distance. All right. So I checked the distances between the two now and we're just under three inches. So we're good to go. What I'm going to go ahead and do now is I'm going to pull the motors back apart and I'm going to put this flange on this motor, this one on this one, you bolt the flanges to the motor first and then you bolt the two flanges together. So let's go ahead and do that. A little bit of a bear sometimes lining these splines up. There it goes. And you just match these holes up here with the studs through the flange. Literally bolts together just like that. So now that we have our two motors coupled together, let's spend some time talking about our power glide here. Original power glide will come with this with an input shaft similar to this. This is how much sticks out out of the front palm housing. So there are options out there that you can buy right off the shelf similar to this that basically allow you to eliminate the torque converter. But as you can tell that much hanging out of the pump, we're looking at about an eight inch adapter and that just doesn't work for most projects. We've already got a pretty long motor here. We've got to find a way to get these things tightened up. So that's when we came up with this. This is our custom input shaft here and this is a female turbo 400 spline that literally will bolt right on the back of a motor. We're going to get right on the back of a warp 11 warp 9 anything with the turbo 400 output shaft. Now because of the fact that we're not running a torque converter, we actually have to supply oil when these motors aren't spinning. We actually have to supply oil pressure to keep the clutches engaged. And that's where this comes in. This spinning right here on the outside is where our electric pump gets where the pressure gets put in. So here there's a one-way check valve goes through this line and it goes right into the front pump. Feeds pressure just like the transmission is used to seeing. All right, well before we get this thing mounted up, I just went kind of want to talk about the splines. The reason why we did a splined coupler instead of a keyed shaft. One of the reasons is, you know, not having a set screw pushing down on a keyway and being able to get to that. None of that seems to really work out well. This transmission, I can literally grab a hole of it and I'll just slide it right on the splines, I'll bolt it in and the thing is completely done. So let's go ahead and do that. All right, so we have the two motors bolted together now. And we also have the power glide bolted to the last motor. We should probably talk a little bit about the hydraulic system in this. Now we don't run a torque converter with this power glide. So basically what we have to do is when the motors are not turning, we actually have to supply hydraulic pressure with this pump to keep the clutches engaged. So literally it comes with the, you know, it comes with good mounts for it, it comes with a rubber perch as well, keeps it real quiet. We also supply a few other things or some fittings here, hose, relays, wiring, everything you're going to need to do that. We recommend probably using number six fittings, you know, just for the, for running the plumbing on this. Also, we tried a lot of different things, pressure and everything else, but what ended up working out best for us is an RPM window switch. And what this actually does is anything below 500 RPM actually turns the pump on to keep all the clutches applied. After 500 RPM is reached, this will shut the electric drive or the electric pump off and the internal pump will take over and you're rolling away. We have two 11s, which I'm sure you guys know by now. They're capable of doing 1,000 to 1,200 foot pounds of torque between the two of them and you can expect anywhere from four to 600 horsepower depending on voltage sag. Overall, length of the whole package is 54 inches and on the back of it here obviously we have our two speed power glide setup. You can get this in a 176 ratio first or a 182 and then second gear is direct, so just your 1 to 1 straight through. Yeah, some of the great features as well with this is it is more than capable of handling any kind of torque that these two motors can put out to it, but it also has park. Park is really important with electric cars. These motors free will and if you just rely on your engine hold back like you would on a gas engine, it will just roll down the hill. So, great park. You can use your e-brake as well as a backup. I think that's a good idea. It does have reverse, which is another big deal with DC motors. There's a lot in tailed and basically reversing contactors and stuff to get the motors to spin and reverse, so having a transmission that has reverse drastically simplifies the conversion. Yeah, I think about wraps it up, man. You guys, any questions, please give us an email, give us a call, whatever you'd love to help you out. Matt, however, thank you. I need a break. I'm not like it. Shooter McGavin. I keep holding on. Let me get situated.