In this tutorial I'm going to show you how to paint Deathguard Power Armor, the equipment and accessories, and finish up by showing you how to paint a plague marines flesh. Welcome to TeoBeat already, my name is Michael and in this tutorial I'm going to be showing you how to paint Deathguard Chaos Marines. If you want to know how I get my miniatures ready for painting, make sure to go watch the tutorial I made shown you how. I'll also put the brushes and paints I use in this tutorial in the description below, as well as put them on the screen when I use them. If you enjoy my content please give this video a like and let me know in the comments below. And if you want to help support what I do I have a Patreon, which I'll also link in the description. I really appreciate any help and support and it goes a long way to growing the channel and allows me to keep improving the content I create for you. For this tutorial I chose to paint a plague marines subassembly list to make it easier. I also chose to undercut the miniature with some Deathguard Greenspray, because it's going to make painting up plague marines much easier. The first place we're going to start is painting the plague marines armour. As this is what the majority of the miniature is made up of. And although we've used Deathguard Greenspray as a base colour already, I'll still recommend starting out by painting the armour with Deathguard Greens from the pot. This is mainly because of the Deathguard Greens as a spray is not exactly a colour match to the Deathguard Greens from the pot, and you can think of the pot as being the official Deathguard Greens colour. This will also allow us to clean up any mistakes we may make whilst painting the armour, as we'll need to use a Deathguard Greens from the pot to do this and it won't look so obvious. To make sure we're getting our smooth, solid colours whilst painting our plague marines, we want to thin our paints first of all and our tentifying an equal amount of water as the trick. Also make sure to keep your brush moving and try not to go over any areas you've already painted. As this will leave and want to texture whilst the paint is still dry. It's also better to paint the multiple thin layers to ensure we're not brewing in any detail on the miniature. So let the current layer dry and then repeat the process until you're happy you'll have that nice, solid colour thereafter. Plague marines armour isn't going to look very clean or polished so we want to make sure we get lots of different tones in character. So the next thing we're going to do is an all over soft shade to the armour using a wash. And to make the wash, let's mix together an equal amount of both the Thonian Kamma shade and lami medium. This is going to dilute the Thonian Kamma shade so it isn't so strong as to change the colour of the armour but strong enough to give us those different shades and tones. We want to try and avoid the wash from pulling up in detail and I find just using enough of the wash to cover the miniature comfortably helps with this. If you do find it pulling up too much in areas you don't want it to, you can just use your brush to soak up the excess. You can see our green armour already looked a lot more interesting than it would have if we'd just left it at the Defgar green colour. Now we want to define all those details in the armour some more making them easier to see and to do this we're going to be using a recess shade. A recess shade is done by painting a darker shade or colour directly into the recess panel lines and shaller details of a miniature. This allows us to create that definition without affecting the main colour like an all over wash wood. For the recess shade on our plague marine I'm using belting green and I find using a glazed brush is perfect for the job. It gives us more control as we don't have to worry about overloading the brush with shade and it's able to get into all the smaller details that can be difficult for a larger brush. If you're a bit messy don't worry you can always need not pending mistakes as we go along with some of that Defgar green from the part like we talked about. With the soft shade and recess shade done we can now start thinking about building up the colours with some highlights and I want to go into some detail about the process of highlighting because if you can highlight well then you can paint anything. When highlighting I like to have a brush that I keep separate so I know I have a brush with a nice point on it when I need to highlight. You also want to think about the consistency of the paint. I find I don't use as much water as I normally would as this is going to help give us that strong colour without multiple passes we would normally need to do when layering and finally it's a good idea to remove some of the paint from the brush onto some kitchen paper before painting which is going to help prevent those thick blobby lines. For the first highlight I'm using an equal amount of Defgar green and Ogre and this wants to be quite a thick line. Take your time painting along all the edges of panels and details because what this is going to do is to help define the shape of the armour. Next is going to be an edge highlight using Ogre and come out and to make this easier you can use the edge of your brush and run it along that edge to paint the highlight. For the areas you can't do this you'll have to take your time painting thin lines along those edges to create the highlight. Highlighting is the most time consuming part of painting any miniature but once you're done it really does make the difference and bringing out all those edges. We're going to finish up with a spot highlight now using Cree Carkey. So using the same techniques I've just shown you you want to pick out the more prominent edges on the armour. If you really want to get fancy you can use Ogre and come out to put some texture into the armour. All you need to do is go around painting little marks and scratches and find having almost no paint on your brush really helps with this and when you're doing hopefully you can see that it really was worth all that effort. Now you've finished painting the plague marine armour you can use the same techniques and colours to paint any Defgar dharma. The next details I like to get painted on my miniatures tends to be all the metals which on our plague marine will be all the brass trim and silver details. To paint any brass on your plague marines start with some screaming bell. Next use some Roonor brass to bring out the details. Now give it a wash using some Reiklin flesh shade then finish with a niche highlight using Iron Hand Steel. For any silver details start with some Iron Hand Steel and give this a wash using Agrax Earth shade. This time we're going to finish by layering the silver back up with Iron Hand Steel. To finish the metals you can use some Nile Ock oxide on areas of the brass details to create some corrosion. Let me now show you how to paint some of the different pieces of equipment and accessories you may find on your plague marines. Starting with any weapons and details that are going to be black. Start by painting these details using some of Badden Black. For some of the black details like the Volta and any pubes we can start with some etching grey for a chunky highlight and then use Dawnstone for an edge highlight. If you want a different tone of black on some of the other details like combat weapons then I will use Steckadon Green for a chunky highlight and from Risen Grey as the edge highlight. This will help make all these different black parts stand out from each other. Let's work on something a bit more interesting which is the bone horn sticking out of this plague marines shoulder and we can get this painted using a series of washes to get that transition between the colours. Start by painting the horn using some Meshupty bone remember multiple than layers is better to get a nice solid base colour. Now we are going to be using some shades to get that light to dark tone starting with Seraphine Sapia and to help with the colour shift we are going to be diluting our shades with an equal amount of lami medium. Whenever we are applying the shade we want to make sure it is an even thin coat and this is what we call a glaze. And once that has dried apply the glaze again but further up the horn this time. Continue using the Sapia glaze up until about the halfway point and once you are happy you are there switch to right conflash shade diluting this again with an equal amount of lami medium. We want to work our way to the very end this time with right conflash shade. Just take your time making sure to let each layer of the glaze dry before you do another one and if you want to go a bit darker you can end with some Nourn Oil. To finish the horn apply the right conflash shade into any cracks and then paint a fine highlight using Screaming Skull. Something that is prominent on all death guard are these pistules and boils. To paint these start with the base colour of Avalon Sunset. Next apply a wash of right conflash shade. Lay the boils back up with Avalon Sunset and finish up with the highlight using your Shabby bone. One of the last details you make them across would be capes of some kind of cloth so how I would paint these would be to start with some Screamer Pink. Then apply a wash of Nourn Oil all over and once that has dried paint a chunky highlight on the raised folds and along the edges with some of Fist and Red. I've finished the cloth with some Kizle Flesh. With all these details done the only thing that's left that I want to show you is how to paint the plagomreens flesh. You may have some plagomreens with exposed flesh or even tentacles so let me finish this tutorial showing you how you can get these details painted. We want to start with painting these areas using Kizle Flesh. Now paint all the raised detail using Flade 1 flesh to start bringing out all that detail. Once you've finished doing that let's create some more definition using a wash of Mekos Purple and an equal amount of Larmy Medium over these fleshy areas. Then using the same technique of glaze in like I showed you on the horn you can create some nice transitions using the same diluted Mekos Purple Mix. Finish these areas by layering up the raised detail with Flade 1 flesh again. Our plagomreens now finished and I hope I've been able to give you the confidence and knowledge to go away and paint some of your own. I have plenty of other tutorials on the channel which are all filled with useful advice and information you can apply to anything when it comes to painted miniatures. I really enjoy making these tutorials and I hope you find them useful. You can really have the channel by liking the video and coming down below. Make sure to subscribe if you don't want to miss out on future content and I'll see you in the next video.