This is a prototype hat and the design itself depends on being able to join this section the side of the hat neatly together at the beginning and end point and with grafting you can do this so just like to give you a quick demonstration. Here's a completed hat brim. It was started here with a maroon coloured waste yarn that's just a flap of stocking stitch for the appropriate number of stitches was supposed to be cast on. I've worked in county yarn which gently shades all the way around the brim of the hat until the hat brim is long enough to fit the future wearer. At the end of the hat brim, instead of working the last row in pattern I've changed the waste yarn and worked that row exactly as it should have been in pattern but using the waste then I followed it by four or five rows of waste yarn stitches. The waste yarn flaps will allow me to fold it into position and hold my stitches in such a fashion that I can see where to graft my stitches. This is the start of my brim, this is the finish of my brim. I've changed to using a blue waste yarn at the end because the dark red would be rather similar to the maroon but ideally your waste yarns should be the same colour just to avoid confusion. So we've got to graft the yellow stitches to the red ones. I've cut my working yarn off with enough yarn to stitch the missing row so I've cut it with four times the width of the row left, left attached to the work. Now I'm going to follow the waste yarn stitches and join these two pieces of knitting together virtually invisibly apart from the colour change. The first stitch I need to join is the first stitch of the eye cord up the side here. So I'm going to go in where my waste yarn went in, up the side of the stitch and pull my working yarn through. Then I'm going to go around the base of the grey, grey, gram-parent stitch where it wants to be ofy, it wants to come together there. It's also exactly where it's held by the waste yarn. The waste yarn provides a perfect guide to your sewing stitches. So as so I'm going to round there, pull it to about the same size and shape as a regular stitch and go back where the waste yarn went again back into the same stitch. Back around the base of stitch too. Now I'm stitching around in this circle, I would be well advised to cut away the waste yarn as I go otherwise this will get wedded in and you won't be able to pull it out very easily. So I'm going to undo the waste yarn at the same time as I make the stitches. So stitch two, pull out the waste yarn, go back to where I came from, back up there, into stitch three, roll it over so I can see what's coming next and I'm going to cut away my top waste yarn as well. Round the base of stitch three, pull out the waste yarn. The first time you do this work on fairly large yarn so you can see what's going on. Back into stitch three, and along to stitch four, round the base of stitch four and back in to the side of the fourth I called stitch. The I called looks just fine. Now I'm going to cut away the waste yarn from inside and then we'll start to graph the garter stitch. I've cut away the waste yarns where they were attached to the I called stitches. I've adjusted the size and shape of the I called stitches so it all looks nice and neat. There's one more stitch there that I can pick away because it's already been copied. And these two bits of waste yarn carry on working for us. We tuck them through and get them out of the way and now we can copy the path of the yarn. That's the last bit of I called there. Now as the yarn exited this stitch we follow the blue waste yarn and the blue waste yarn comes up from the back, up to the front and we'll copy it. There's no need to cut away the waste yarn anymore. Now I go to the other side of this room stitch goes up and over so I'll copy it. Now it's easier if I turn this on the vertical. I come back to the blue side. The piece of blue yarn goes in there and up the next stitch. So this is an example of a perfect graft. We're going to be grafting it in garter stitch and there shouldn't be any noticeable interruption to the pattern. I've stitched right across now and if you look very carefully you can see how my red stitches exactly match the waste yarn. There are twin stitches where I've been sewing and to be same on the blue side. So I'm just entering the last stitch of the garter stitch section. So that's where the blue yarn goes and if I just let it guide me up into the knit stitch I'm now back into the eye cord. So I'm up side that first stitch in the eye cord and here things have become a little loose so I'm just going to tighten up my waste yarn. There we are. And now I can see my first stitch of the eye cord up top. Whenever you graft a stitch you graft it round where it wants to be a V when it wants its legs held together. And I'll repeat this just the same as I did on the first eye cord edge. And you always try to get those new stitches to the same size and shape as the ones of a regular same size and shape as a regular row of stitches. And whilst I'm doing this I should be cutting away the waste yarn from underneath otherwise I won't be able to get at it. I finished stitching around the eye cord. I've neatened up the stitches and I've cut away the waste yarn from underneath. These flaps are still attached at the moment and now these can be removed. I could technically un-pick this from the bound-off edge but since I've already cut both ends it's just as quick to take it from the sides and pull it away. So everything's looking good. Now I'm going to remove the second side. Ideally you should use a smooth yarn for your waste yarn rather than the fluffy one. It will come out more easily but it should be brightly contrasting and the same weight as you're working on. So the waste yarn is gone. Let's look at the resulting join. If it worked for the subtle colour change you'd be hard pushed to tell that there was a join there. It's a perfect graft because we've grafted the bases of stitches to the tops of their great great great great grandchildren.