Music Hi, this is Jim Snell in the United States of America. Thank you for watching my videos. Thank you for your continued support. Enjoy. A few quick slideshow presentations of the different variations of the forks. They, with the top cap that can unscrew, there's different colors and actually different colors of the legs. But they all work basically the same through model year 1999. This is the gas gas made forks. You'll see on the top cap there, a series of small holes that go around it. And that's for a one of these spanner rinches like I'm showing here. That cap unscrews. If you don't see those holes there, then you probably have an earlier pay-only model. They used a different type of construction and I have a different video covering that. Once you've removed this cap, there is a no ring up in there that actually seals it to the fork leg. You can change the seal and work on it on the workbench. If you don't have a spanner wrench, there are different types of strap wrenches. I show here a cloth one that can be used. You wrap it around there to get it loose and tighten it. Please don't use locking pliers or anything like that. You'll mar the finish of this possibly you will also crush it and ruin it. That's basically how you can get it off. And on the top of the leg there, you'll see there is a beveled edge and that seals that top beveled edge. Seals against the o-ring that is inside the cap. That's what keeps the oil from escaping down through the threaded area. So you can replace that o-ring if you're seeing leakage around the bottom of the cap. But actually that's quite rare. There are different colors of the chromium plating. There was 97, they were gold and then they were black and then they were gray and then just silver chrome. They're different titanium nitrate coatings but the legs themselves interchange up through the model year 2001. The 2002 Pro fork is basically the same but it's shorter. The upper stanchions are shorter as well as the internal dampening. Using a small screwdriver you can work your way around the top and get loose the fork dust seal wiper. I have in my hand here the wiper not the seal. The seal is on down inside there. There's another variation of the wipers that were used in the model years 1995. It's rare you'll see them in green and red but mostly you'll see the black rubber one with a spring around the perimeter there. And it's actually better than those hard plastic ones. Briefly in 1995 there was a change due to an availability of seals. They changed the diameter of the fork seal the outside diameter to 50 millimeters. Most of them you'll see are 38, 48 and then there was a brief period in 1995 where they were 50. So there is a variation there and the wiper will also have a 50 millimeter exterior diameter. You can't really see it in this video but if you're unsure about the diameter of the cap you'll need to take one off and put a caliper in there because you can see clearly that the 48 millimeter wiper just falls out of there. Here I'm showing the 48 millimeter seal that would go in that cap and then when I put it in the 50 millimeter cap it just falls out. If you have a 95 bike you have to determine if you have the 48 MD seals or the 50. That's just how it is. There's no other way to know what they're not marked and externally the caps look exactly the same. If you have a 50 millimeter fork definitely you'll have the red plastic dust wiper but the red plastic dust wiper was also made in 48 so that's deceiving. To extract the seal once you have the dust wiper off you'll see there's a surclip there and if it's the first time you're changing the seals it doesn't have a notch or anything. So one pick to press it down and move it away from the edge and this little screwdriver picks it up and takes it out just like that. You might find corrosion in there so it may take some cleaning and some digging around to get it loose. That's a seal extraction tool I'm using I've had for many years. You can get a screwdriver under the seal and pry it out or something like that that's potentially damaging your seal cap but I understand people don't have fancy tools. I made this seal driver out of a PVC pipe years ago. I had to take a little bit off on the lathe. Alternatively you can take your old seal and actually lay it on top of your new seal and actually use your old seal kind of as an installation tool to press the new and down in there. You should put a little bit of grease on the edge of the seal the outer edge. Then I modify these surclips before I try to reinstall them that way when it's worked on the next time there's a little bit of an edge to get under there. So I cut about a 45 degree bevel into one end of the surclip and that lets me get under it or whoever works on it the next time get under the thing with a tool. Then here are a few still shots just to give you an idea of what you're up against looking down into it when it's assembled and then you can see closely that it's just a but edged surclip. So I'm pointing to it there. This is how I grind off one side at an angle a little more than 45 degrees actually. Then here I show what it looks like when it's back down in there up close view. That way you can see obviously you can get under with a screwdriver, small screwdriver anytime you want to work on it in the future. Beginning a model year 2001 the gas gas lower fork legs became one cast unit. They no longer had the screw off fork seal cap or the screw off foot down by the axle. The internal components are virtually identical and the fork seal size is the same. There are 38 millimeter chromium stanchions as is covered completely in this video. The only difference is beginning in 2003 there is a slight change of the diameter outside of the fork seal dust wiper. The fork that is featured in this video finally was discontinued in the 2004 model year when they began using the 40 millimeter Marzochi made a different suspension which is completely different than that depicted within this video. The amount of oil you will put back in this fork is 300 cc's that is 300 cc's on either side right or left and the proper weight is 7 weight for coil. Now 300 cc's after this fork has been disassembled and completely drained and cleaned. I want to mention that when you have this apart for seal replacement it is a good idea to wash out the interior of all the parts to be certain that all the contaminants from the previous oil have been cleaned out this way you don't contaminate your new oil. When you reinstall the fork leg on the motorcycle you should clean this surface of the leg with a solvent or soap and water or a window cleaner and clean the interior of the commonly known as triple trees. If oil is left on this area where the leg is clamped into the motorcycle then it can cause the forks to twist and the surfaces are being cleaned where they join with the triple trees is important. When you disassemble your fork leg take note of how much of the leg appears above the top triple tree you may want to take a measurement before you take it apart so that when you reassemble you have the fork leg correctly positioned in the triple tree. I want to mention that we do not over tighten any of the bolts on these assemblies. If you use too much force it is possible to crush some of these parts or damage the aluminum triple tree so use care when you reassemble your front suspension. When replacing this it is possible that you may find it a little difficult to install. You can put this in hot water and let it sit for a few minutes and it will soften it and it will install much easier. This is one year especially talking about a new part. If you reusing the old wiper it probably will be no problem.