Hey friends, Shane from Howter and Seccom and I'm getting ready to do another set of carbs here from one of your internet customers. If you can't do it yourself, I love doing it for you, so keep shipping them. But let's look at an example I could show you here where this customer had this worked on at another shop and it just had a carb job done that he paid for and you could see I'm a big fan of cleaning the outside as much as the inside. I don't know, I wouldn't be too happy paying for something that's just such a, I don't know if you call it a rush job or lack of craftsmanship. But I mean inside and out, we've got a lot of dirt and contamination. Just even the jets themselves just are not clean. You could see where there's old varnish that couldn't be from one time of riding. So my tip is that you need to thoroughly do a carb job. But my video today is going to be about, I'm trying to fix something that there's still a problem present that another tech hasn't figured out. So that means it could be difficult. There are a lot of good techs out there. These customers though, you guys are fantastic. When you go to a shop and this video is as much for customers to think about the information you supply, this guy even sent me pictures of his spark plugs showing which cylinders here's the problem and what is complain is. So great job Richard on the detailed information that you sent. So here we got our CIDA carbs and we know that this is the cylinder because we're working upside down here. This is the cylinder that's the problem one. This is the one where we're having the rich spark plug. Instead of just ripping these carbs apart and cleaning them and then putting them back on the bike and trying to see if that fixed the problem, why don't we diagnose it? Why don't we actually try to find? You know, what would cause that spark plug to run rich? So we're going to really focus on anything that relates to extra fuel as far as the carb rateers. The engine, the compression's good. He said that checked out. The coils appear to be good. He said that it's got great spark. So we're going to lean at this point towards a fuel problem before we look at anything else. So one of the common areas that's really, really, really, really susceptible to a rich fuel condition is our needle and seed area. So what I like to do is I take a pressure tester here and I'm going to show you what I'm going to do to actually test the seed. You're going to see me do what I call the wet test because realistically these are never running dry so they sometimes will seal up better when they're wet. But let's go ahead and take a look at how I install the tool. This one here, I want to make sure I'm on the pressure side and I cannot stress this enough before you deem something wrong, test your tool. So in this case, I could just plug this and I could show you that that tool holds pressure. All right. Now that I know the tool will work, I'm going to go ahead and hook it up to my fuel inlet. Okay. Make sure I got a good seal around there and just to, you know, to make sure I have a good seal, I'll put a little soapy water around there. You'll see here as the weight of this float is sitting on there and I pump that up, it cannot hold. So that means that fuel would just leak right on by there. Let's get a close up of that. So you see the gauge just going down and I can actually hear it leaking. Okay. So before I get too concerned, I'm going to go ahead and do a wet test. So I like to take like a little bit of lubricant and I'm just going to wet the seat area and then we'll really zoom in here. Okay. I'm going to go ahead and pump it back up. Almost as always, can you see the bubbles in there? I'll even give it a little more. I'm going to physically hold this down to show you that it will not seal even if I physically hold this down. See the gauge drop in there? And you can see the bubbles coming out of here. That's not the needle in float seat, not ceiling. That's the O-ring around that seat. So pop this apart real quick and show you. But that is leaking raw fuel that bypassing this from shutting off, which is going to have a higher float height, that is definitely something that causes a rich condition. Okay. Looking at this carb right now, it also looks like the O-ring that's under here. I could see it's kind of, it looks to be weather cracked or whatnot. That's a ceiling surface. I don't have a way to test that. So I could tell you this, from any carb job, you always want to replace those rubber components. A lot of times the needle in seat just gets overlooked. People take the needle out like this. It's quite common that they'll replace this part, the float needle, as I look at this one, let's zoom in there. I'm looking for a witness ring around that needle and I'm not seeing one. This is also super clean compared to the rest of the carburetor, which tells me that this was more than likely replaced, like it commonly is by technicians. They put only this in, but they don't finish the job. Let me show you what's under here and what's actually leaking. Check out my playlist for other great fuel system videos. Before I even do that, I'm going to go ahead and just put my finger over this, zoom you back in, and I'll pump it up again. You can see the fuel is going to bypass right around there. Take my finger off. This is, you can hear the release of air. So that, that o-ring is completely at fault here. It's adding to the problem. That's for dang sure. Check out the links in the description for these tools used in the video. You can feel, come out nice and easy. Another reason that you need to take these out is if people leave the factory screens or filters on there, those can be dirty and get plugged up as well. Now that o-ring doesn't look terrible, but we 100% know that it's leaking. That's the in-releany corrosion or contamination in there. You've got to be really careful pulling these out. A lot of times you're just replacing those assembly. If it's really stuck, what I'll do is I'll put a drill bit in there, upside down, an unused one. It has a nice shank on there, so it's not scratching anything, so that when I pinch it with the pliers, it doesn't collapse. But this came out easy, so I didn't have to worry about it. But check this out. Let's look down inside here. Alright, as you can see, it's pretty nasty in there. So for just having had a carb job done, it did not have a complete carb job, did it? I'll go ahead here and test the other side to see if it's having any ability to seal any better. Let's go ahead and summarize this. This side's leak is just as bad. Do it. It needs to be fixed as well. But now we're back to the problem of, I can't say that that's why this cylinder is run and rich. If I just threw this back together and said, okay, there it is, my customer's not going to have their fixed spark plug problem. So we got to keep digging. But this is a way to properly check those needle and seat. You always want to do this after rebuilding them. These pressure testers are very inexpensive way to go ahead and, you know, prove your work. And so I'll have links below to some of the tools I used in this video. Please hop over to toolssarrinch.com for more reviews on how to use tools. And then if you haven't subscribed yet, we'd love to have you as a subscriber and get notifications of all our new videos. You can also head over to howtorinch.com if you're interested in having me work on something for you or if you're looking to get mentorship through some private training. So make it a great day and keep wrenching.