Hello ladies and gentlemen and welcome back together for today. I'm going to show you how to replace the seal on the Worshield to housing on a Waxful Astro 2010 plate. I've already done this, but I'm going to remove these three nuts, which is situated underneath the bottom of the cataclycumvera. And then we're going to remove this bolt situated just there. And then there are a few more bolts that are situated as you can see on the manifold. To gain access to the oil cooler. Now I've removed those three 30mm bolt. As you can see, the flexor plug has big sources of loose. Now I just need to remove that torque. Right there, that's holding the actual catalytic converter in place. And now we're going to move all the way up to the top to the manifold to start removing the bolts on the manifold. But first of all, before you do this, as you can see on the catalytic converter, they're both one, two. And there's a lot of other two at the top. For the heat shield, you have to remove the heat shield to gain access to the exhaust itself. So this is the heat shield that I've removed. You can see there's four bolts on it. Literally, you can see one goes there, one is there. And then it often says it's only exhaust that's just down there as you can see from this picture. You also have to remove the dicks, then you can see literally just pops out once you remove the bolt from there. It's joined with the heat shield. Now that I removed these bolts, you can see. And then we'll be able to remove the exhaust manifold and gain access to the oil slash oil cooler housing. 10 mil. You can see it keeps stocking. To remove those 10 mil bolts on the exhaust itself. It's got one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight bolts all together. As you can see, these are the two 12 mil torque socket, start torque socket. Bolts, you can see. It's a 12 socket to remove them. You can see there's two of them. That's situated just up there. You can see both of them are removed now. What we're going to do is literally go up top and just lift it out. We're going to slide the exhaust manifold away. From the block. Just press that side. And then just pull it out gently. Press nothing bit. As you can see. As you can see, that's the oil fluid that's situated just down there. We're now going to remove this plaque. And then we're going to get to the oil fluid and remove the bolts. Now we're going to remove the bolts. Clant over to the power steering pump. As you can see, it's also got a water channel. It's also good to drain the cooling beforehand. It's a E10. Start torque socket. Just remove it. As you can see, so remove that one. There's also another one situated. As you can see, there's two of them situated just down there. We're going to remove those as well. It should always change the seals and replace them as well. We're going to remove those ones first. And then we're going to remove the new dung. You've done as you can see it. You're less than the bolts for the fluider. Once it's disconnected that pipe, you should be able to remove the whole thing. As you can see, there's some more nuts that are facing backwards. I would worry about those for now. We're going to remove those pipes and those bolts. We just slide out once it's out. We need to remove that side. We can just take it off, but we need to need them. After you finish removing the bolts on the oil cooler, literally just give it a little wiggle and a little tug. And it should just pop off this slide out. As you can see, the oil felt cool off. Pull in the housings all out. As you can see, to remove the cooler, you literally have to take the housing out because these bolts situated backwards. You have to take the cooler out to get access to them. Remove the seals. The seal on the cooler is these ones. I'm also going to replace the ones on the work of the housings as well. You can see, as we've got both of them there. You can see that's where it was leaking from. And on that side, make sure you clean the area up first before you put in new seals. As you can see from this video, it's a T30 Star Tulk. Turned me these bolts on the oil cooler housing. Now, let's see how it's going to work. The bolts are out. We're going to do this get up a little lever bar. Try gently to stay, pry it up, take the bolts, and just shake them gently. Just come off as you can see. That's where the seals are. There's one channel for the oil and one for the water. As you can see, there's a clear one for the water. And the other one is for the oil. Place those seals, and refit them. And also remember to clean the area before you put in it of all the oil, so that it sits properly in the seals. Now, as you can see, the surface area is clean. On both sides, put in the cooler. Now, I'm going to put the gasket onto, and then, pry in all the bolts on there, and that should be okay. And then, use the next step, of fitting the seals to their work for the housing. And reconnect it to the engine block. Okay, now, I've actually fitted all the seals, to order the pipe, including the cooling pipes. Just always remember when you're, when you're removing the oil filter, housing, including the cooler, to replace all the pipes, not just the ones on the cooler itself, all of the oil filter housing, also on the pipes that goes to the past there and pump, as well, and to the oil channels, as you can see down here as well. It's also a seal for that one, and there's also a seal for this one, always remember to replace them. I've now replaced all of them, and now I'm just going to refill it, and then, we're going to put the exhaust back together, put some oil in the engine, top it up with cooling, bleed the system, and leave it to run and see what happens. Now, I've got the exhaust manifold back on, as you can see, I've put all the tenel nuts on there, but you should leave them loose, so they either got movement in the exhaust manifold. As you can see, to connect the two bolts underneath that I'm about to do, after you connect the two, you can just tighten them all up together, otherwise it won't sit properly for two bars. Now I now need to connect, as you can see down there, so I can fit these two, because if we tighten the exhaust manifold, it should be very difficult to align them.