Alright guys, so on today's vlog, I've got a actual live model for you. I know a lot of you have been asking for that. No mannequin today. We've got Helen from Heaven the Salon, one of my friends on Michael Grig in Winchester, Verginia. So I'm excited to show you guys this cut. What we're going to do, I called Helen out during my class today because I wanted to just alter her shape just a little bit. So I saw the haircut, I like her haircut, but what I wanted to do is just remove some bulk in different areas. So we're going to go through, we're going to do that cut step by step. So I hope you guys like it. Let us know in the comments below. Here we go with our step by step. Alright guys, so we're going to start off by sectioning off the top of the haircut. The section is going to be a little asymmetrical because what I'm going to do is, I'm going to go a little bit higher. This is the heavier side right here. And then this is the exposed side or the weaker side, the side that she has her part on. So we're going to start off by working with a low elevation on the part side. The reason we're working with a lower elevation on this side and then the other side we're going to do a higher elevation is I want to leave a little bit more weight and I want to have a weight line working across to build up a nice shape on the side of her head. Alright, so my go to tools for this cut is the YS Park 339 comb, which is a nice small comb with tight teeth. So it's great for precision cutting. And the DB20 scissor from Mizutani, I have a 5.7 inch. It's my go to scissor for everything, wet cutting, dry cutting. It's definitely, I have every Mizutani scissor and that's the one that I use the most. So we're going through what I want you guys to notice what I'm doing in this part of the cut is I work, you can see on the diagram, I work kind of the mid part of the haircut first. So I take a diagonal back parting all the way through, but I only work the middle part first, then I work from the nape to the neck to the top of the occipital bone. It just allows me to keep my body position working the same as I continue through the haircut so I stay more consistent. Now working the back steady blade of the scissor just to detail the edges. What I wanted to do with this cut to make it a little bit more modern feeling, I wanted to add lines to the outer perimeter of the haircut so that you could see a nice solid shape in the cut. I also wanted to remove a lot of where the bulk was and take out a lot of the connection. So I think what I noticed, because the cool thing was I was teaching a class in Virginia for my friend Michael Greg and I saw Helen, she was one of the stylists there and I saw her from across the room and I saw the shape of her haircut. And the shape of her haircut was really just, it was so connected that it was creating more of a rounded shape on the top of her head and I just didn't think that it was the most flattering shape for her face shape and for her head shape. I just asked her if she would stay after and we could cut it and make some adjustments. So that's really what we're doing. You can notice that on this side, this is the heavy side now. So all of the top of the haircut, everything I have sectioned away is going to fall over this point. So what I'm doing is I'm working with higher elevation, which you can see on the headsheets on the opposite, on the left hand side of the video. I'm working with higher elevation to remove the weight and create that disconnection from the top. So now when the top falls over it, there'll be a little bit of a structure to hold it, but it's not pushing it, it's not rounding it off and it's not being all connected together. So it's just going to give it a definite more modern feel and it's just going to make her haircut stand out. So working through diagonal back on both sides, it's pretty standard. The only difference, like I said, is the elevation. So just working with that high elevation. So you'll notice my over direction here. What I wanted to do is push a little extra weight into the crown area. So I continue, I keep my over direction pretty much similar as I work through the side, but what that'll do is build up extra weight in the crown, which I'm going to go through in detail, dry in a little bit. I also work through the same way, so I did the top of the section first as I work through. Now I'm working on the bottom part of the section in the occipital bone, nape area, still working diagonal back, still working straight out from the head and removing that weight. This was such a cool situation because I don't get to work with live models that often, you guys know I'm putting out videos pretty much every day that are hair cutting step by step videos. So to get a live model was pretty cool. And also Michael has a beautiful salon, so the lighting was great. So it was a pretty ideal situation for creating a hair cutting video. All right, so just a little bit of scissor over comb there to tighten up the nape area. And now we're going to work through horse on a line on the top of the head. You can see my angle here. You can see it over, we're over directing everything to the back, taking our guide from the crown of the head and just cutting a nice horizontal straight line across parallel to the top of the head. And we'll work that all the way through. We're doing extreme over direction on this because I want to push a lot of weight to the front. What I love about her haircut is the disconnection in the front, so I don't want to mess with that too much, but I do want to have some sort of connection into the back and I want to create that kind of forward push. So over direction is a great way to do that. So last little bit. And that is the finished part of the wet cut. So you guys can see that structure. You can see how the weight kind of bevels right around the occipital bone. Now we're going to go through, do a quick blow dry with our Ergo paddle brush, Ergo blow dryer, and really see that shape come to life. You can see that disconnection. Now I got my vibrastrate iron. And we're going to go through into a ton of detail work. So I'm working over top of her head, working a point cutting technique and the whole goal of this point cutting technique in the haircut is to just soften the weight line that I've created. I purposely created that weight line that sits right around her ear, but I wanted to just soften it a little bit. Now I'm going to go through and work the detail of the edges of the haircut. So I'm using the steady blade of the scissor against her skin to kind of guide my scissor up through and create that nice hard line in the haircut. I talked to you guys about it earlier. With this specific haircut, what I want to do is add a little more detail to all of the edges. Working around the temple area, now working in the back of the head and just drawing those lines. Now I want to work in the background because it's a little bit heavier back here, it had more over direction. I want to go through horizontally and do some point cutting because that allows me to work better with the shape and remove the weight. Now we're going to go through scissor over comb. This is really just to add in more detail. The detail is not done wet, guys. So we go through, we build the shape and the foundation, wet. Then we go in dry and we do all of our techniques that we know to really fine tune the haircut. So going through the scissor over comb, now I'm doing some more point cutting, adding in a little bit of texture, softening the shape, doing the detail around the edges of the haircut. So I'll comb the hair forward and I'll just work the point of the scissor to add that detail work on the outer edge. And then a little more scissor over comb to soften it, to kind of build in that shape. So I just, I take everything I know, everything I learn and I add it into every single haircut because that makes every haircut stand out and makes every haircut your own. So it's this detail work that people pay extra for and that not even that they pay extra for, it's what makes your haircuts great. So just really work on that die, the dry detail work in your haircut. So just going through the top, a little more point cutting, softening it, but also adding texture. And that is the end result of the haircut. I'll do a little bit more detail right around the ear in one second. So combing that forward, I love seeing those layers and how they're laying and how the color pops through the top. This just makes the haircut really, really stand out. And this is what I was talking about, making it a little bit more modern. So the thing I really want you guys to notice is the left part side, how it balances with the right side, even though we cut it asymmetrically. And there's our end result. Hope you guys like it. I hope that helps you guys. The big thing to break this down and just sum it all up is that she had a great haircut. It wasn't had nothing to do with the haircut that she had. All we did was we twisted it, did some dry cutting techniques, took out weight where maybe it shouldn't have been, and then created more of a modern feel to the cut. Alright, cool. I hope you guys liked this haircut. Make sure you hit the like button, hit the share button, share it with all of your friends, and we'll see you guys on the next video. Do you have a Instagram or something? Yeah, I do. What is it? At underscore Helen Morrison. That's what it is. Alright guys, we'll see you next time. Bye.