Today I'm going to show you how I'm making the acoustic panels that I am going to put in my recording space here. These are the materials that I use from everything that I list in the description. They will make two frames. You may need more, so adjust as necessary. Let's make a panel. First step is the tools that we're going to need. A straight edge of some kind. You can use a power saw, but I prefer using this hands-off for most of my cuts. Drill. A small drill bit for making pilot holes. A screwdriver. Or a screwdriver bit for the drill. A tape measure, of course. And these saw horses, which have been brilliant for me. Some gloves for working with the insulation. I have this power sander, but sandpaper would work just fine by itself. A staple gun. And some staples. Next, the actual materials for the panels themselves. Just make one panel. I bought two 8-foot pieces of one by four common board. Just cheap lightweight wood. I'll cut these into the pieces of the frame. There will be two 47-inch pieces for the sides. And two 24-and-a-half-inch pieces for the top and bottom. I also bought a 10-foot 1-inch-by-3-inch board that will be cut into the pieces for the back brace and the four corners for each panel. For the backing, I used some breathable weed barrier fabric. A box of number six deck and fence screws that are one and five eight-inch long. Rocksall or rock wool, safe and sound insulation. These are two feet by four feet, bats, eight come in one pack. And to cover the panels, I used burlap from a local fabric shop. And I just bought enough to make several panels. And you can see it's very breathable, allowing the sound to travel right through and into the insulation. Alright, let's put together a panel. I'll start by creating the basic frame. Take one of the eight-foot 1-by-4s and measure out to 47-inches and make a mark. Then on that same piece of wood, measure out 24-and-a-half more inches to make another mark. And what remains will be the other 24-and-a-half inches that you'll need for the top and bottom. Repeat these measurements with the second 1-by-4 to complete one frame. And if you're building two frames, cut a third 1-by-4 into two more 47-inch pieces. Take the 10-foot 1-by-3 and mark off 23-inches twice to make two back pieces. Then make marks every nine inches to give you enough corner pieces to make two frames. Then make your cuts. And you now have the pieces for the frame. Next take the 24-and-a-half-inch pieces and make marks at one centimeter in from the cut sides and two centimeters from the other sides and draw your pilot holes in each of those spots. Then line up the top and bottom pieces with the side pieces and drill into the pilot holes you just made to create a perfectly aligned pilot hole in your side pieces. Next put your screws into the four corners of your frame. Now you have a strong basic frame with countersunk screws, no glue necessary. Next take the corner pieces and cut the ends at 45-degree angles and attach them to the frame by drilling pilot holes and then inserting one screw in the middle on each side. Then attach your back piece again drilling pilot holes that inserting the screws. And your frame is complete. Next grab some gloves and drop one of the two by four pieces of insulation right into the frame. Turn the frame over lay out a piece of backing so that it covers the frame and cut. Then staple down the backing placing a staple every couple inches for a tight fit and trim off any excess. Next lay out a piece of burlap or whatever material you're using to cover your panels and make sure you have enough material to wrap around the ends leaving a couple inches of overlap to work with. Then cut your covering. To attach the covering start at one of the ends of your panel, overlap the first side and staple in the middle and each corner. Go to the opposite side, pull tight and do the same. Then go to either side of your panel and repeat the same process, always remembering to pull tight as you staple. Flip over the panel and make sure you have a nice tight fit. Turn it back over and get to work inserting a staple approximately every inch until you've gone all the way around the entire panel. For the corners, grab the excess material, pull tight and fold together to create a 45 degree angle and pull that over the top and bottom corners to create a tight, clean corner, staple down and trim off the excess on the back. To create some space between the panel and the wall, I used one and a quarter inch cork bottle stoppers, simply drilling a hole through the middle and into the corner piece of the frame. With that, you have a beautiful acoustic panel. To hang these on the wall, I used a lag screw to go directly into a stud and then another long screw into a wall anchor so I could space these as far apart as I needed them, leaving a couple inches away from the wall. I made a couple of crude holes in the back for the screws and then put the panels in place. I didn't list the screws in the part section because you can attach these to the wall anyway you see fit. And you'll see once I've put this on the wall that the cork stoppers and the screws being out from the wall a little bit create a gap between the panel and the wall to create more space to catch those reflections. Alright, that's how I made the acoustic panel that I'm using here. Let's put them on the wall because you're not hearing audio with any panels on the wall, but let's check that out. And now we have a couple of panels on the wall. It sounds to my ear like it's making some difference. That's because there's panels right here in front of me. So that should definitely help and the rest of this space still needs to be treated which means a lot more work for me. But if you have any questions left over, everything's in the description. Definitely see the post on my website where I wrote up the entire process and ask your questions in the comments. I'll see you next time.