So, do you see this kind of pitting or similar pitting happening on your orchid leaves? Let me explain what I have observed as to why some of my orchid leaves have pitting like this. As you can see, I have several examples and with that, several reasons. Thank you so much for being here. I appreciate your time very much and I would really appreciate you giving this video a like. It helps the channel a lot. And if you have not subscribed, let me know in the comments what is stopping you from doing so. Alternatively, thank you to everyone who has subscribed. You're also so appreciated for doing that. If you would like to leave a comment, stating your reason as to why you have subscribed to my channel, maybe it might help convince someone who has not subscribed to do so. My stats tell me I have a percentage of viewers that watch these kinds of videos on my channel but have not subscribed. So I look forward to reducing that percentage in the stats. Thank you so much for helping me out with that. Now, with the housekeeping out of the way, I'm going to go through my examples of pitting on orchid leaves based on my observation. So reason number one is cold water on leaves with cold air to match. This can happen within a short period of time if the water has not been wiped off before cold temperatures, possibly at night set in. The symptoms can take up to a week to show if dealing with orchids that have thin leaves and a little longer for orchids with thick leaves. Ideally, if the orchid is being grown during a season where the temperature is lower than what the orchid prefers, then water on the leaves needs to be wiped off straight away. Air flow from fans can compound the problem seeing us during the cooler temperatures, fans will continue to cool the leaves down as they would during warmer temperatures. So even if you switch your fans off but there's water on the leaves of an orchid that is an intermediate to hot grower, there's a risk of this kind of pitting to happen. The brown or black spots are not a result of a fungus, they are a result of cells breaking down and dying off. However, those spots, if not treated, can invite fungus or bacterial rot as a secondary side effect. Once you see these spots happening in case you miss the water on the leaves, wipe the leaves with hydrogen peroxide 3% just to keep the leaves clean and continue to monitor the spots making sure they don't spread. They shouldn't, basically, with a little bit of hydrogen peroxide 3%. But you know, it doesn't hurt to stay vigilant. In this case scenario, new leaves are usually prone to be affected more than older leaves because of their tender cell structure. However, that does not mean it can't happen to older leaves as well. Moving on to the second reason, cold temperatures. Okay, we've just talked about cold temperatures but we talked about cold temperatures in combination with water on the leaves. Just cold temperatures now, not even with water on the leaves but intermediate to hot growing orchids are super susceptible when it comes to cold temperatures. No matter if the leaves have a thin or thick cuticle, so when you see your leaves showing pitting, even though previously everything was fine and you know you didn't leave any water droplets on the leaves, some orchids will object to the cold temperature timeframe by showing these dimples or pitting. These dimple formations will eventually turn brown, just like the first example because the cells die off. It is unfortunate when that happens and some orchids are not as temperature tolerant as others. My epicotantic gold coast eventually succumbs to the cold temperatures during my winters and ends up looking like this as you can see with the previous growths. If you see this on your orchid, come for yourself and the fact that now you have a visual reminder that this specific orchid of yours was exposed to two low temperatures and that can easily be remedied by raising the temperature exposure for the next season of cold months. My newest growth however is clean and that is important, seeing as now we are getting a little bit warmer during this time of year. At least I hope so. There's another reason why you may see pitting happening on your orchid leaves so based on my observations that third reason is because of scale. Scale sits on an area of the leaf and settles down, takes a bite, sucks away at the juices and even once the scale has been discovered and removed, a dent where the scale was will remain for the duration of the life of the leaf. If we see the scale in the crawler stage and deal with it straight away, the pitting does not occur. Only an adult scale that has settled into its spot will create the damage. Sometimes as the leaf ages, the pitting will form a yellow circle around the bite area, not all the time, but when you see yellowing around the area then it is one of the unfortunate souvenirs the adult scale leaves behind. But at least it did not have the chance to leave a gazillion of its offspring behind, so while it is aesthetically unpleasant to see, it serves us as a reminder that the specific orchid had scale and we can be more vigilant to treat it repeatedly this way avoiding a return of the same. As mentioned, not all scale bites will form a pale ring around where it once was. Sometimes the leaves of an orchid will produce anthocyanin around the area because it is an actual fact scar tissue. The cells are not dead, but the anthocyanin is produced to protect that part of the leaf so that it is not subjected to other influences that would induce more weaknesses. Like sunburn! Anthocyanin is not produced on all the scale bites, but only on orchids that have a lot of anthocyanin in them, which is usually found in orchids that have darker blooms or leaves. Moving swiftly on to my fourth reason, it is probably an obvious one, but I will include it anyway, and that is, as leaves age, some may start their aging process by showing signs of pitting before the leaf starts to turn yellow. This is normal, because leaves have their lifespan up to a certain degree, as long as the newest growth or growths on the same orchid do not show any pitting, there is nothing to be concerned about. Last but not least, the fifth reason that I have noticed in my collection is because the orchid can be virused. However, before seeing pitting and prematurely jumping to conclusions that the orchid is virus and tossing it, other symptoms have to line up in order to come to the conclusion that the pitting is an actual fact another sign for a virused orchid. In addition to that, it is important to remember if the orchid was never affected by scale. If there was scale, where was it? Because scale found on the surface of the leaf will leave pitting. So in the case of this orchid, I had crawlers back in the day, but they got dealt with and they were on the underside of the leaves. Nothing on the surface. However, I have other symptoms, including deformed blooms over several bloom cycles proving this orchid has a virus. The pitting just confirms the diagnosis as another symptom of the same. These are my reasons why pitting appears on orchid leaves based on my observations in this collection over the years. There are probably more reasons and if you have those experiences and you know why it happened and how to avoid them because of any intervention that you made to stop them from reoccurring, please leave your observations in the comments. I am sure that additional information can be of great help to anyone checking the comments for more information. Thank you for that in advance. Thank you for sharing your experience on this subject and thank you so much for watching the video to the end. I so appreciate that as well. And seeing as you did make it to this point, let me wish you a fabulous day. I do attach a condition to that though, that just stay safe. Take care. Bye.