I'm Steve for this week with cars and after a little drive on the highway this 1966 MG Midget started making some really bad noises and it's also leaking quite a bit of oil so I think I better pull the engine out, tear it down and see what's going on. At first inspection I haven't been able to see where all the oil is coming from. It doesn't look like there's a hole in the block but the noises that the engine was making leads me to believe that something catastrophic may have gone wrong inside the engine. So let's get the engine out and take a look. I think we should take a quick look at things so let's put it up on the left so we can take a look underneath it. I pushed it up here from the other side of the building. I didn't have it running and it's already leaking this much oil on the floor. Underneath the car looks to be a pretty good shape. You can tell that it has been leaking some oil but doesn't look abnormal for a car like this. Don't see any holes on the side of the pan. With the stripes of the oil coming back this way almost makes me think that maybe it was leaking further up front. The black paint on these frame rails is so shiny it's a little hard to tell. It's an oil droplet but you can almost not see the oil on the frame there. There's a little bit of oil up front not so bad. Starter looks a little wet. This car has a spin on oil filter conversion kit. Besides all the oil that has gotten onto things from down here it doesn't look like anything is a miss. Looks like someone's hit the oil pan at some point. Underneath the bonnet everything looks pretty clean up here. No signs of oil coming up. Looking along the side of the block. I don't see any damage there. All the paint is burnt off of the header. It was some bad paint where the car has been running a little hot over on this side. Still looks pretty dry up here. Don't see any signs of any damage. No abnormal amounts of oil in here. Next step is to start pulling the engine out. On the inside of the car the shift knob needs to be taken off. The shift lever and the shifter cover. To take the shifter off just remove these three bolts. There we go. That's what the bottom and the shifter looks like. Lastly on the inside you need to remove the bolts that hold on the transmission cross member. Next I'm going to take out the drive shaft. Just undo the bolts on the rear flange and the drive shaft will just slide out. I like to just set the drive shaft up in this area up here because there's no need to remove it from the car. The drive shaft just sitting up here. I just pulled it out and then set it up here out of the way. This is a good place to store it. Instead of trying to take it off of the car and it won't be in the way for getting the transmission out. Also while you're under the car you may want to disconnect the slave cylinder instead of having to go with the transmission. That way you save all your brake fluid and you don't have to re-bleed that. Also you need to remove the ground strap which will be connected to the spot on the frame to somewhere on the engine. You can see I have set the clutch slave cylinder off to the side there. I wanted to make a little note. This is the pin that goes right here and these get worn out. You can see this one is quite worn out. I see this quite often and it's always a good thing to inspect these when you're going and these pins are really affordable. Just this little bit can affect the way that the clutch pedal feels. It's always good to replace these if it's worn out. This particular car has a GPS pedometer on it but this pedometer cable would be plugged into where that plug is right now. So you need to remember to disconnect your pedometer cable before you try pulling the transmission out. Also remember to remove the two long bolts that hold the bottom of your transmission crossmember in these holes here. I've taken the bonnet off now. Now I can get to disconnecting the water lines, the fuel lines, all the wiring. I will pull the radiator out so I think I'll start with that. And remember before you do any work on the engine disconnect your battery that way you don't accidentally hit something and short something out. I have the radiator removed now, have all the coolant hoses disconnected. Also disconnected the coolant hoses going to the heater. This car has headers on it and just so that I get some extra room I'm going to take the intake manifold off and the headers. That way I don't have to worry about scratching up the steering column taking the engine out. Sometimes hoses can be a real pain to remove so let me show you a tool that I have. The side it says tube, the side it says hose. This is a hose remover. What it does is it pushes on the end of the hose so that it will expand behind where you want to take it off making it a whole lot easier because sometimes these get stuck on they're pretty good. So just slide it down in there, squeeze it and it'll pop the hose off. Intake and exhaust manifolds are removed. Now it's just a matter of disconnecting the wiring and hooking the engine up to the engine hoist. I think I have everything disconnected now. Ready to hook up the engine hoist, start pulling the engine and the transmission out together. I have the engine hoist hooked up now and this is called an Oberg tilt lift and this allows me to change the angle of what I'm picking up. It's going to make this process a lot easier. This is a left hand drive car but a right hand drive car will have the same problem. You can see if I lift straight up the motor mount is going to hit the steering column. So I'm going to undo this bolt right here and I'm going to pull the steering column out so that I make sure to get the steering column back where it was. I'm going to make a line right here. I'm going to make a line right here. Now pull that out and I'll make another line on the spline itself. That way if the wheel gets turned it will still be lined up exactly where this was and when I put the column back on everything should line up. Then I'll just make a mark right here so that the wheels get turned. I can still get that back to where it was. The trick is that you raise the engine up far enough that the harmonic balancer clears this front crossmember. Then you can slide the engine forward and get it out. I just need to raise it up high enough that when I straighten this back up that the oil pan will not hit in the front here. There's the hole where the engine goes. You can do this job in about two hours. Taking a look at the engine from the outside everything looks fine. I don't yet see any signs of what might have happened to the engine. That's it for this time. Next time we'll tear this engine down. We'll take it apart and find out what went wrong. 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