Hey everybody, it's Kevin from 3D Printed Props and in today's video we are going to be taking this incredible Redwood helmet from Phillinus prop shops through all the steps that you need to do to get it So it is super smooth and ready for paint. It takes a little bit of time, but it is totally worth it. Let's get started Okay, so anytime you either buy a helmet or you print a helmet yourself and you're using a traditional lefty and printing, you know, spools of filament. It is going to have layer lines. It's just nature of the beast. It's how the technology works. Now this helmet from Phillinus prop shop is crazy smooth and is so dialed in, the layer lines are just so minimal. It is going to take very little to get this thing ready for print, but we still have to do the work to make it look really good. Now how do we do that? First thing we're going to need to do is we are going to need to sand it. So these are some of the supplies you're going to need to do that. So for enough bat you want to have a mask. You are sanding plastic into very, very fine bits into a dust. You don't want to be breathing it in. So do everything with a mask on. Very, very important. So what types of sandpaper do you need? Now when I do any of my helmets I usually will start out at a rougher sandpaper and then work my way up. That's how you do most sanding. And I usually start at a 120. I find the 120 does a really good job of knocking down the layer lines and really starting to rough that up so we can smooth it as we go. Now of course you're just going to then go up in the numbers. Of course the higher the number you get, the finer the sandpaper and the finer the finish. So then I'll go to a 220. Then I bump it to a 320. Go over the whole thing again. This is why this takes time. Because you do the whole helmet or the whole prop in one grit and in over and over again the same thing. Then I will jump up to a 400. Same thing. Everything. And then after that I will usually have to do some filling, maybe tiny cracks or some layer lines that I couldn't get rid of. Again all helmets are going to have that. And for that I will usually use this Bondo glazing putty. I find this to be a really good material to use. It fills really well. It sands really really well. You can also use wood putty. Believe it or not. I just like this stuff. I like how it's in a tube. It doesn't dry out because you've got a cap as long as you don't lose it. Put that back on and you're set. And then after I use the glazing putty I will have coarset to sand that again. And I'll sand that with a 400. And then I'll sand that with a 600. Then I will wash the print in soap and water. Let it dry. And then I will wet sand that with a 1200 or 2000 grit. Wash it. Let it dry. And then it's ready for paint. Let's work through all those steps in this video so I can show you step by step how to go through the process. Okay first things first do not forget to put your mask on. And then we are going to start sanding with a 120 grit sandpaper. Again the coarser grit to really help knock those lines down. Now I've wrapped the sandpaper around a sponge. It helps me have a better hold of it because you're going to be doing a lot of sanding. So if we take a look here we can see that the layer lines are still there again not a lot in these helmets really cool. But we still need to knock some more down. And again I'm still using the 120. And you can see the more you work that the more you'll get rid of these layer lines so that you're not going to have to do a lot more of the finer sanding later on. So you can see here the layer lines are almost gone. And you're going to want to do that across the whole helmet with that 120. And don't forget to get into the cracks and crevices again. This is why I like wrapping the sandpaper around a sponge. The sponge is soft and it really lets you get into all those little spaces to smooth that stuff out. Now here we've done the entire helmet and it's hard to really see much of a difference. But if you look you can see most of those layer lines are really knocked down. Now we're going to go with the 220 again as we move up the sandpaper gets finer and it's still doing its job and it's just making a smoother and smoother helmet. Don't forget as you're sanding because you can sort of forget about this it gets away from you to do all the little bits of cracks and crevices because you don't want those to stand out. Now we jump up to the 320 again finer sandpaper a finer finish on the helmet and again you're going to do the entire thing. Of course you're still wearing your mask. So even after all that sanding there are still some layer lines you can barely feel them with your nail but they're there. So we're going to use some fillable sandable primer for that. Key thing is wash the print before you use this primer. Now I like to put it in a bath of hot water for a little while. This stuff is thick that's why it's sandable and fillable and this way it breaks up and makes for a great mix and it'll coat it really well. Now again make sure you're not getting too close, stand off as the direction say 8 to 10 inches so you're not getting any runs. And just give this a really generous couple coats let it dry maybe even get it but another coat to fill in all those layer lines. Sandable fillable primer is magic. If you look at this thing you can see here almost no lines now in this helmet. It's going to have a little bit of grit to it. You're going to have to do some sanding after this but those major lines are gone. Now if you remember we did have some thicker grooves up on the top and we're going to take care of those with some glazing compound. But before that we need to sand this sandable fillable primer so it is smooth before we go ahead and put on our glazing compound. And again while you're doing it don't forget work in these cracks we don't want them to fill up with the primer and the things we're using. Now we're going to go ahead and give this thing a wash. I washed the print multiple times during the process to get a lot of that grit off. So here we go here some of those thicker layer lines and this is when we're going to use our glazing spot putty. And I like to use a piece of foam because it really helps me get into the cracks and crevices when I'm working. And you're just going to go ahead and you know you don't want to sort of cake this stuff on but you want to put enough in there to fill those lines to make sure that when you sand this. You don't see them. And some people go overboard sometimes with this glazing compound. I am guilty of it myself. You really only want to use it when you're taking care of these really thick lines and some of the minor lines throughout the helmet. At the same time you know if you really want to get that smooth smooth surface you might go through the whole helmet like I'm going to do and find areas where you can still see some lines and take care of those. Because the last thing you want to do is get to the end and get ready to start putting paint on or put the paint on and you start seeing some layer lines. Now are there going to be a few layer lines here and there? Yes. I mean you know we're going to do as best we can but this is not going to be 100% perfect but it is going to look pretty sharp. And don't be afraid to go ahead and get your fingers in there into all the little cracks and crevices to make sure it is taken care of. Here's an area I forget to do a lot of times and it's the underside of the helmet. Go ahead and use your finger to fill in those little lines because that is something that I forget and then you can see that in the helmet and nothing is worsen for getting an area like that. Now once the glazing compound is dry you're going to go ahead and sand that and this stuff makes a very very fine dust. Make sure you're wearing a mask. If you can be doing outside even better. Now once we've sanded it I've given it another coat of the sandable fillable primer because you want to make sure you have that on there before you do your final paint. But as you can see some of the details are getting gummed up with Alice primer. So what we're going to do is we're going to use some of these rasp some of these little tiny files. I got these at Harbor Freight you can get them in Amazon or where not you can find links below. And I'm going to go through the crack there and through the detail to get rid of that and sand it smooth again super easy to do and it's a really really important thing to make it look finished. Now last thing we're going to do yes more sanding believe it or not we are going to do what's called a wet sand. So this is where you wet the helmet and the sandpaper or both and you work it with a very very fine sandpaper this is a 600 grit and you are just going over all the details and this takes care of all the sanding lines. Then I'm going to go ahead and wet it again and wash it down and this is a 1200 grit. So this final wet sand takes care of any sanding lines and makes this thing last smooth. Now the key thing here is you're going to want to wash the helmet to get all this grime off with soap and water and let it air dry in this way it will be totally ready for paint. Okay so let's go over the steps that it took to get to this point with the helmet. So first off we started with a raw print and I worked my way up grits of sandpaper from 120 to 400. Then we used a sandable filler primer a thicker primer to fill in some of those little lines that were still there. Then we sanded that with a 400 grit sandpaper to really smooth it out. Now there are still some lines and still some little gaps here and there so we used a glazing compound to fill those gaps. We then sanded that and then I washed the helmet thoroughly to get rid of all the dust that was there because of that glazing compound. Then I went ahead and gave it another coat of sandable filler primer and sanded that down but this time I did a wet sand. So I used a 600 grit wet and then a 1500 grit wet and that gets rid of all the different sanding lines that we've done over the course of our sanding and gives it this glass smooth look. And this is now ready to take paint. So in the next video we will be applying paint to this and I cannot wait because that candy apple red looks amazing on these red hood helmets. I'll see you in the next video. Thanks a lot for watching and take it easy.