I'm going to show you how to do this. So, ever since I had this truck, it's always had a really bad parasitic drop. And I try to figure it out. I'll show you what I got here. So, got that over on Amazon. And it's a... So, multimedia leads, but it has like a fuse connector on it. And I wanted to see what device is second-pulled power in my system. Yeah, I have no clue what's going on. My batteries will go dead after a couple days or a week, depending on how charged they are. And the worst thing for your battery is to, you know, if it starts to be decharging, you're going to build up a salvation in your battery. That's actually one of the reasons why I never did the flip-pot amount of phone charger. That's permanently installed, but I want to actually solve the problem for real. To figure out what the deal is. So, actually, I put a fuse in here and we'll go through it. I'm going to test the circuit, but first I'm going to deactivate the circuit. I'm going to put the car to sleep, and I'll show you how to do that real fast. Alright, this is a driver's side door. I'm going to be using this side because the fuse panel is right there. Oh, look at that go on under here. But I've got to first make sure this car isn't asleep. So, I've got to wait about half an hour to make sure all the security things are going off, but I need to first emulate that the door is locked. I've got to keep the door open though. So, I've come back about half an hour and a... So, I'm testing these fuses. I'm going to take my test light. I want to see which ones are active because, I mean, a lot of these fuses are key-switched. So, I'm going to figure out which ones are active. They're going to test those individual ones and see what kind of draw they're doing. So, you know, through the multimeter, I'll be able to see on the multimeter. So, we'll see. Alright, let me demonstrate how this thing works. So, I currently have my tool bolt power supply kick to the one side of the test fuse. Then I have on the negative side, I have an LED. And I can demonstrate the actual draw, like what I'm going to see on the multimeter here. So, there we go. I've got some power going through it. So, the power is actually going through the multimeter. So, I'm getting about 1 milliamp. And it's about the same on this. So, I can verify that actually it's working. So, same concept. So, once I actually get this connected to my fuse panel, I'm going to be able to see on this screen what it's actually pulling here. So, I'm going to come. And so, I'm currently waiting for the card to go to sleep. And I'm also printing out a fuse puller because we're kind of a nag-witty guy. Let me show you that little fuss. And you can't really see it there. But, you're a hobbyist, man. You had to definitely get a 3D printer. The things were incredible. So, yeah, I might need to put some more hairspray on that thing to get it to stick. But, alright, so, I'm going to wait for this to get printed out. And the card to go to sleep, and we'll take a look. Alright, so, I'm going to go through when I figure out which one of these things are hot. I have this thing grounded out, I'll just like... And I'm going to make a mark on my little diagram here. So, I know which ones to come back and test. Okay, so, I'm going to go through it and I'm going to make a mark. And I grab my little Sharpie. And I know that this top one up here is hot. So, I'm going to make a mark on this one right here. I'll make a mark on the actual number. I'm going to make a mark so I know which pieces to go back and test with, whether I'm multimeter. One's actually hot, because if it's not hot, then it's not going to be sending current. It's not going to be creating a parasite draw. Alright, so, I have my 3D printed fuse puller here. And I'm multimeter with my fuse connector. And now that I've marked all the spots are actually hot. And one thing I've noticed is that this side of the panel here, this side seems like it's key switched power. And this is constant power on this side. So, if you look at all the dots, this way going forward seems like it's all hot. Alright, so far, so far, I haven't really found anything. That's 0.017, which is basically nothing. But, in the market though. So, that's hot, bugging like that. Yeah, this tool is cool, but I can't fit into certain areas like this. It's creating a blockage right there. You know, so, that's sort of an issue. I had to remove a relay here. But, so I might just have to grab my multimeter probes and get something in there. Alright, take a look at this one. This is the instrument cluster. Which I thought this is a chew right there. And, take a look. I can hear it actually going, making noise. I'm just trying to get it hold it in there. But, that's pulling about a half an amp. But, like I said, it's hard really hard to get in there. I can hear the thing is making noise when I get back in there. That's the one that's really obvious so far. Alright, take a look at this one. So, this thing actually drives. I will USB power connector, it drives about 0.23. So, right now I have a connector to the power point. And, I'm going to plug it in like that. And, observe the multimeter. So, power that little LED on this device on there. It drives about 0.200, like less than I know it am. Alright, cool. That's actually probably what I got there for, maybe. Alright, so I went through the engine compartment here. And, this is what I have so far. Nothing else even registered. So, I only put stuff on the actual registered. So, I'm going to go through, I think I might test the... Go to the engine compartment and see if I can find on these fuses. But, I don't know if I can test these fuses right here. Or, what these are, I guess I'll look and see what they are. The 0.8.7 here. Alright, so, now we do the same thing for the engine compartment. I'm going to first find the hot. And, then I run my tester on it, so that's hot. That one's not hot. Alright. Yep. Yep. So, nothing pretty much. So, I'm going to go through all these and do the same thing. Look for something going crazy here. Alright, so, after a couple hours of control shooting this thing, I've kind of narrowed down. So, this is actually what it should be at right here. At about 35mm amps. I actually unplugged the instrument cluster, and that's creating a serious parasitic draw. I'll show you that real quick. Let me go back and I'll put the fuse back in. Alright. So, two problems here. This instrument cluster actually uses two fuses here. So, fuse two and fuse 41. So, I plug either of those fuses in. It's going to bring up that draw. So, let me show you real quick. I'll put in fuse two. If you can see that, I'm trying to keep the... You hear this thing shaking around. I'm moving around. As power. So, let me go back and I'll show you the draw now. Yeah, I've done this test quite a few times already. So, now we're up to about 500mm amps. And that's going to basically drain and kill the battery. So, definitely narrowed it down. But, I was trying to find the schematic online for the instrument cluster. We might take this apart and try to fix it. Because inside there, there's a thing called a power saving relay. Or a power saving relay. I suppose I should put this thing in the sleep mode. Because since my cluster also controls the radio and the power windows and a few other things. But, so now I can either buy a new instrument cluster or take this thing apart and try to fix it. And, I guess I have to take this whole dash part to get the thing out. It's kind of a headache to do, but it's about 300Rs by Newland. Alright guys, cool, figure it out. So, at least I narrowed it down to what it is. But, I definitely like to fix this myself and not pay somebody to do it. Alright, I'm going to pull out a few of this out again. Just so I don't have to drink my batteries. I'm just going to figure it out. You know I should do have it a flow charger. But, alright guys, cool, narrowed it down.