Hi guys, welcome along today. Thanks very much for joining us. Here we are back in the workshop. And today we are going to be looking at this Triumph 1050 Speed Triple brake caliper problem. So as we can see here we've got the brake rear brake caliper off the bike and we've got an issue with one of the pad retaining pins. Quite a standard issue, somebody is absolutely mulled the thing round. So one of the pins is out, this one here is stuck in. We've taken the caliper off the bike for better access. We can't take the pads or the retaining plate off yet as the pin is stuck in there holding the pads and everything together. So we need to try and get this pin out. So what we're going to try and do because it's already fairly round is we've got a selection of torx bits, anarchy bits and spline bits and hopefully those combined with potentially an impact driver and a little bit of heat we're going to remove this brake pad pin. Now we do need to be a little bit careful with this when we're adding heat because although we've bled the brake out before we removed it there will be a bit of residual fluid inside the chambers here. So we need to be careful because that is going to expand as we warm it up. We also need to be careful when warming it up of the rubber seals. Now this I've got a complete seal rebuild kit for this, all the rubber seals, all the dust seals and the fluid seals inside there are all going to get renewed as we're going to be putting some heat through it and we're going to be careful because it is aluminium. So we've got a steel brake pad pin going into an aluminium caliper. So what's effectively happened here is a bit of galvanic corrosion between the similar metals. So when we're warming this up the aluminium will warm up at a faster rate than the steel but we need to be careful as potentially the only way we're going to get this out is to knock in a fitting that's a little bit too big and in doing that we want to be careful we don't crack this weak point of the caliper here and we also don't want it to be too big because it will then spray the threads out and bind it up even tighter. So we're going to select the right bit hopefully and we're going to try manually with a breaker bar, hammer and some heat see how we get on. So let's get this set up in the voice and we'll have go. So here we are guys also up in the voice now. So we've got the affected area facing us so it's nice and easy to access. We've got a piece of aluminium in the voice jaws here to stop the jaws from damaging caliper at all as we haven't got any soft jaws for these. And normally we'd use a nice small little blowtorch however this large blowtorch is all I have to hand so we're going to give that a go. A small hammer so that we've actually got more control and feeding over when we're hitting it whether things are moving and obviously a far-extinguished shutter hand in case things do go wrong. So make sure you've always got all of that equipment. So out of this selection here this was originally a 5mm Allen key bit. So if we have a look at how that currently fits in this rounded off fitting it's not too bad but I know that is going to completely round out. So the sooner you can get to this the more chance you've got to get an out. If this doesn't work the last resort is going to be either a welding and nut onto there or drilling this out. Worst case scenario in this case is a new caliper which you can pick a second hand up caliper up not too expensive so it's not too drastic but we don't really want that. That's the last case scenario we're going to try and get this out. So this 5mm is not going to work and I can see from the way that already fits in there. The options will be to find a better fitting 5mm so this is a draper set. I've also got some snap on Allen keys which do fit slightly better but in this case I believe it's going to be between a 6mm spline bit and a T40 torx bit. So let's see how they fit into what we're dealing with. So this is your T40 that's quite obviously too big as you're trying to knock that in it's just going to damage the potential to the caliper around this area. We'll try the spline bit and you can see that's actually gripping where I can feel it's gripping on some of the flat. So I think this is the ones to go with. So what we will do is get some heat on it and we will try this first. So here we've selected all the tools, got them already before we've started the job. We don't want to be ravaging around looking for bits as we're in the middle of heating this up. Once it's warmed up we have to act quite fast to try and get it off. So let's have a go. So as we're doing this guys we're trying to apply even heat around the outside of the area that we are trying to remove. So IE the aluminium outside of the steel pad retaining clip. Pin. We need to be quite patient with it. So it's not great this because we're not directing the heat too closely but it will warm the caliper up nice and fast. We've applied a little bit of heat now. Let's give it its first try. I can say we have to act quite quickly. So as we turn the heat off, small fire out which is extinguished and get our piece, not enough nicely with the flats. Insert it. Now we can get our 3H drive bar on and as we are pushing a bit of force on there we can also tap that to try and give it a bit of shock movement. We've just locked that. First the territz and we have success. So here we go guys. Calip is now cooled down. So now we should just be able to remove the pad pin. That's obviously going to be renewed. We can remove the brake pads. They are a bit changed because they are wafer thin. We can remove the caliper retaining bracket. Now it's just a question of putting an airline on to pop the pistons out, clean everything up, renew the rubbers and all the seals, refit it, new pins etc and put it back on the bike. Now you probably think this is staged, how easily that came out. Luckily for me it was a pretty straightforward one. We didn't damage the caliper. Obviously we are going to renew the pin anyway. But this is a common problem with motorcycle calipers. So my advice is basically the more of these sort of things you do, the more you feel you get for the bolt, but the most important thing is to select the correct tools before you start the job and have a plan in mind and be aware of what can go wrong. If you take all of that into account, then hopefully you will have the same sort of success and be able to remove them nice and easily. So ladies and gentlemen, there we go. Another job complete. Crisis averted. Really, really pleased with how smoothly that went. Again, just to open the size selects in the correct tools and have an a plan in mind before you start is your best way of avoiding a catastrophe and a kind of circumstance. So we are going to go apart and the bench. We are going to carry on with it now. Hope you guys have found some of that useful or maybe picked up a little hint or a tip somewhere. Thanks to you and in. Look after yourself. We will see you soon.