We have the strap cleaned up ready to start working on the turbo. We need to replace the driveline bearing caps and tees and carrier bearing. Put it up on jack stands so that we can then have easier access to the driveline and then take the driveline out, start doing all that repair. Alright, pro tip. You're removing your yoke from your transmission and you need extra space on the wrench. Then you just move the tire and then when you're ready to crank on it and you can't quite get enough room in between the frame and the primary to break it loose, you just push the tire backwards until it hits and push a little harder and break the frame. Alright, so I've been working hard to get that son of a gun out. I'm just on the turbo with 16 so you don't really have a whole lot of room to work with. I have this protection plate that doesn't really move. You can disconnect all three bolts and it doesn't go really go anywhere but the service manual says to remove the boot that way. The carrier bearing boot and housing but you can't really get it that way because everything's in the way. You can't go that way because then you can't pull it out. So the rear half of the shaft came out no problem. The front half can't come out until the carrier bearing boot and cage is off but you can't really push it that way unless you're taking some sort of pry bar and effort to hold this into the front diff and then push the boot evenly on both sides off the retainer. But you can't do that because the boot and the cage hits into the protective cage and the frame. So anyone with a 16 turbo razor is going to know my pain if they've ever done this. So I just cut it off. So here's what the aftermath looks like. You can see that the cage was something like that and that surrounded the boot. The boot is annoying because it has these retainer rings inside of it and then that goes around the carrier bearing which has a little bit of wobble in it. And this thing's four years old so that's kind of expected from OEM and then the bearing sits on top of the prop here and not on top of the outside but on the inner sponge. So I just use the three jaw chuck to then pull it out. Came out nice and easy so now to clean this all up. And one of the other things is before you disconnect the splines from the yoke, you're supposed to mark both ends so you know where both ends go back into the yoke. But you can't reach it with the protective housing on it and you can't reach it from underneath so you can't really mark it. So if it's not marked when it goes in, you're just kind of at a look. So what we're going to do is compare the yokes, make sure everything's balanced that way. But one thing you'll notice is that you'll see here these yokes are at a 45 degree angle and these ones are at a 90 degree angle. And then these ones are going to be dependent on how you do it into that yoke. So I'm going to do a quick little research, make sure we got our yoke alignment game on right and then clean it up. And then we got the new carry bearing, new roll pin, and then we got new T's for all of the yoke. So new T's, new bearing cap, new rectangular clips for all three joints. And a lot of you guys might say, well you should be replacing it since you have it out with something better. But for this trip, we're just trying to get things squared away and not spend a whole lot of money. So you mean you can replace all your T's, all your clips, all your bearings relatively cheap. If your drive shaft is in some decent balance, if it's not shaking your machine apart, there's no reason to change it until you break it. So we're just going to replace the carrier bearing and get the sucker in the T's and then get the sucker back in the razor. Alright, so I've been working on the drive lines. If I take a look here, I can show you that we've got new T's and new bearing caps and new pins, all nice and shiny in there. And we got the carrier bearing pressed on. And so here's the other replacements, brand new caps, T all the way across. You can see the shiny clips in there. And a lot of you guys don't realize that your center splines are greaseable and you need to maintain them. So pop the center console off once in a while and throw some grease in them splines because that'll be your friend if you don't want that binding up. This is our problem child at the moment. So this connects to the rear drive on the transmission and this has four bolts that go there. And then that connects to the other side of the longer shaft here. And that's what propels you all the way up until you get to the center bearing and splines which then drive the front diff. But this little guy, because it has this hollow backing on it, it's not a solid piece. Whenever you go to press these bearings out, as you can see on this one, we've started doing these two pieces just end up squeezing together and bending creating a bend in this piece because it's not solid. So if I'm going to get this bugger out of here, I have to create some sort of block to hold these two jaws apart so that one that's pressed, the bearing moves and not the yoke. So that's where I'm at. Alright, so finally broke down and busted out the grinder and just simply cut the post off the tee to get out of the yoke. And so by doing that, then we were exploring the yoke and what was going on. And if you can see down in the far side there, there were a little bit of a lip and that happened probably by me, but that created a lip or a retainer ring essentially where that bearing wasn't coming out. And so we hammered out the opposite way. We simply, if you ever get yourself in that kind of situation, you can just put your yoke in the vice like that, wide enough for the needle bearing to go through and then you can work it out that way. But sometimes grinding in our way is the best way to go. Thanks for watching.