Well, hello, dammit. We're going to be doing a little tutorial here on battle damage, authentic battle damage. This actually comes to a gentleman that seems to be a pretty good guy as far as folks the internet go. I can't pronounce his handle very well, but it ends with the OW. Anyway, he was doing a little bit that I watched on, you know, community painting and all that kind of stuff. And he said that battle damage and weathered figures looked the best, but they're so damn hard to do. And I'm here to show you, they're not all that hard, at least to do a basic job. So that's what we're going to do. So I have this horribly painted shield here from the chaos series. And yes, I know it sucks. It's horribly painted. The highlights are really bad on it. Yada, yada, yada. Okay, so we just need to figure out how to do the battle damage on it. So pay no attention. These aren't the droids you're looking for. We're going to need a few things. You're going to need a very light, in fact, your lightest silver and your darkest. You can even mix your darkest with black. They're going to need a undercoat color or primer color. Now in this case, we're going to use black, but you can really use almost anything that you want. If you have a really dark model, maybe a white primer is a good thing or think of as an undercoat, maybe a lighter or dark color of whatever is painted on there. In this case, we're going to be mixing black with a little bit of the base color and go through and get it done that way. All right. So we have to think how is this thing going to be weathered? I got water on my brush. Anyway, you know, we've got to have to think about that. So as a guy, stick the shield into the ground because you can't carry it everywhere. So the bottom is going to be weathered and really anywhere that there is a corner. On some shields, they have some cuts in it or you can make cuts with your exacto knife to kind of accentuate things. However you want to do. Anyway, here we go. Going in with the black, mix it again with a little bit of the base color or sand-gween red. Again, P3 because P3 is best. Anyway, mix all this together. We get a very, very dark, dark red. So it needs to be very close to black. You don't want this a shade of red. You want it black with a red tint to it. I'll try and hold this as close to the camera as I can. We're going to start out by doing very fine feathering strokes on the bottom where you want this to be. Now, when you go in with this undercoat color, meaning the black or whatever using for undercoat color, you want it to be a little bit bigger than you think the battle damage needs to be. That means it needs to be pretty thick. I'm going to use some of my mixer here. If you haven't seen how to make this mixer, check the other video they have on how to thin your paints. You'll love that mixer. It's awesome. All right. So I'm going in here and I'm basically with a very thin coat of everything wherever I think there's going to be weathering or battle damage. I'm going in there and painting it this undercoat color. Again, black. A little bit of shine here from the light. So I'm trying to make sure you guys can see this. Anyway, you want to have kind of sharp edges to it in some places, other places you don't. Just need to mess around with the actual details of how you make the edges of this, meaning how the black transitions into your normal piece of however you like it. I usually like it sharper. You can do either. Just again, give a shot. It works for you. And again, this is supposed to represent swords and all manner of things hitting these shields. So you want the edge just like that to kind of come down to make a little point from the edge. Excuse me. Of the sword gets drawn across and these sort of things. So just be a little bit of random about it. Kind of go here and there and everywhere. Now when you do the side, don't hold it perpendicular. You're kind of hold it almost flat towards the, towards your surface there. So you kind of get a wider impression of the paint on the model. That's really going to help you out. Okay, very key right there to make it large enough. And here, I'm going to make a slash across it. Again, you don't need to start off real thin ice and you start off kind of thick, but then you do need to try and sharpen the edges. And if anything connects to the end, you need to make sure it gets a little wider at the end. Little scratches and splotches here and there. You can go as heavy as you want. It's light as you want. Incidentally, if the little star figure ring there was not black, I would have also done the same thing on that. Do it all the way across on whatever you have. All right, so now we're coming in with our darkest metallic silver. Again, you can even mix this a little bit with black if you want to. What we're going to do is we're going to put as much of this as we can anywhere we put the black. This is a simulate that whatever the shot was or whatever it is scraped all the way through the base coat and went into the metal below. All right, different ways to do this as far as the feathering technique goes. But again, basics are right here, figure out which one works best for you, but you want to try and get that as close to the black as possible in most places and other places you just want to leave the black. Those of the strikes that really didn't get all the metal, they just kind of got the primer. In some cases, you don't want any black at all. Those really deep strikes that galleon right in. So you want to be, want to bury this, you want to be a little bit random, you don't want to all be the same. Play around with it. See what works for you. Again, I'm just using a shield. I've been in like five times here and I'm just practicing on it myself because I always need practice because I'm a hack and I need to practice. But you know, a little bit practicing here and there never heard anybody, but it's a trial run to see how it is. As you can see here, I'm doing it on the on the star as well where I think there would be battle damage. I'm not getting really detailed with exactly where to go in all this and every model is going to be different exactly how you do it and where you do it and so on and so forth. Find out what works best for you based on that model, but here's a basic technique. All right. With the very light silver, save your real good stuff, your liquid model for a different project, just a very light silver, even if you have the mix with a little white or acid, possibly. But anywhere where there's enough silver, you can get another lighter silver inside of it. Do that. When this dries, it's going to have a better effect. But anywhere that you can, as you're not going to be able to do it in too many places, unless you ever really sharp thin brush, you just have to be careful about it. Don't go too crazy on this lighter color. Just a little bit here and there. It doesn't need to be everywhere. Just get what you can as I take it off camera and I switch the figures around so it'll show you something I didn't do. No, I'm just kidding. I actually did all this. And guys, that's that's kind of it. I'm going to fumble around here quite a few times trying to get this up close and focus it because anybody has done a thing before on YouTube knows that web cameras suck at focusing. It's so annoying. Or if you set the focus to be a certain distance like I usually do, I never get the damn thing to focus in right. But anyway, when it does, you probably won't very much. There you are, authentic battle damage. And all done in a space about, well, 15 minutes on this one, of course I'm going kind of slow. Only takes about five minutes guys to do a good job on this. You can do it all over a model. It'll make guys the armored look fantastic. Alright, so as I try and focus it away, that's what it looks like from a distance. That's good stuff guys. Give it a shot. Subscribe, leave me a comment, let me know what else what needs doing. I'll get right on it. You guys be cool and take care.