Capsicum e carne

Capsicum e carne, vulgo chile vel chilli con carne, est ferculum in Novo Mexico aut Mexico septentrionali aut Texia inventum. Recentius Mexicani minime aestimari originemque Mexicanum negare solent, Texani autem magna parte laudant ferculumque nationale censent. "Lady Bird" Johnson Texana, praesidis uxor, "mense Novembri ineunte" ait, "primo aquilone percutiente, caelo griseo, hora circiter undecima, meditare suadeor optima quali sapore 'capsicum' ad cenam nocturnam inferatur":Along in November, when the first norther strikes, and the skies are gray, along about five o'clock in the afternoon, I get to thinking how good chili would taste for supper: Claudia Alta Taylor Johnson, epistola ( p. 12) ferculum enim illa, sicut alii plures, chili sine pluribus (ut qui "capsicum" diceret) nuncupavit. Asseveratur enimvero Robertum Allan Shivers, gubernatorem Texiae, capsicum e carne deprecatum esse hoc consilio culinario: "Ollam 'capsici' imo furno ad fervendum ponas. Ferveat semperque ferveat. Interdum bonum frustum bubulum torrefacias. Hoc comedas. Capsicum fervens semperque fervens obliviscaris."Put a pot of chili on the back of the stove to simmer. Let it simmer and simmer. Meanwhile, broil a good sirloin steak. Eat the steak. Let the chili simmer and simmer. Forget it: Allan Shivers fide  p. 44; cf. Barry Popik die 14 Novembris 2007 Shivers autem re vera capsicum e carne appetenter comedebat, quippe qui praeceptum culinarium capsici e cervina a se confectum divulgari permisisset.

Pulvis capsici (chilli powder) ad hoc ferculum singulo fere impenso temperandum anno circiter 1890 in Texia inventus est.

 De origine multifario 
Iam ante annum 1569 amanuenses Bernardini Sahagun Navatlace scribentes "carnem e maizio capsicisque rubris lycopersicisque et contusis cucurbitarum granis coctam" necnon "carnem frictum ex iure capsicorum rubrorum lycopersicorumque et contusorum cucurbitae granorum" enumeraverunt.Bernardinus de Sahagun, Historia general de las cosas de Nueva España (manuscriptum) lib. 8 f. 22v sqq. (Arthur J. O. Anderson, Charles E. Dibble, interprr., Bernardino de Sahagún: The Florentine Codex; General History of the Things of New Spain pars 9 [University of Utah Press, 1954] pp. 37-40) Haud dissimiliter post annos ducentos et sexaginta Gulielmus Bollaert iter per Texiam liberam anno circiter 1842 faciens "bubulam vel pullinam aliamque carnis speciem quoquomodo concoctam e cucurbita magnaque copia capsicorum rubrorum" descripsit, quod "inter fercula maxime exoptata" incolarum aestimavit.a sort of stew made of beef, chicken or any other sort of meat, with pumpkin and a large quantity of red pepper is one of their favorite dishes: William Bollaert, commentaria (W. Eugene Hollon, Ruth Lapham Butler, edd., William Bollaert's Texas [Norman: University of Oklahoma, 1956] p. 218)

Ferculum, cui impensa notabilia caro et capsicum tantum sunt, quod ope tamalium loco coclearii sumptum erit, primum anno 1828 in urbe S. Antonii Texiae ab incolis paratum rettulit peregrinator J. C. Clopper. Texia eo aevo provincia fuit Mexicana, incolis magna parte pauperibus Hispanice loquentibus:
Si apud macellum eis necesse sit carnem emere, perparva quantitas ad cibum omnis familiae suffici cogitur. Modo isicii consecari solet, quanta carne tantis fere capsicis, et in una concoquitur. Massae maizii paratae parvus pugillus extrahitur, manu battuitur ad tenuitatem lucunculi, in laminam ferream torretur: tales crispae loco coclearii ab indigenis adhibentur: quas in eadem patina carnis capsicique omnes simul mergunt, singula crispa duas buccellas ad maximum suppeditante, altera statim prehensa.When they have to pay for their meat in market a very little is made to suffice a family. It is generally cut into a kind of hash with nearly as many peppers as there are pieces of meat: this is all stewed together ... When the [corn] dough is al[l] ready a small portion at a time is taken and patted in the hands till thin as a flannel cake ... These cakes are baked on sheet iron ... they answer the natives for spoons with which they all dip into the same dish of meat and peppers ..., one spoon not lasting longer than to supply with two mouthfuls when a new one is made use of:  p. 74

Rem persimilem (sed apud privatum iam effugum) Ioannes Duval miles anno 1842 in Mexico septentrionali vidit, sed ille, primus omnium nobis notorum, nomen ferculi dedit:
Duo tresve in domum aegre penetrantes mensam repperimus variis victualibus oneratam: capsico e carne, tortillis, etc., lagoenis pulque nonnullis, capsaque bonis sigaris Hispanicis repleta.two or three of us had picked our way into a room, where we found a table well covered with various sorts of eatables—chili con carne, tortillas, etc., several bottles of pulque, and a box full of fine puros, or Spanish cigars:  pp. 174-175 fide 

Post quattuor fere annos Compton Smith in eadem regione explorator ad mensam convocatus est ut socolatam sumeret, "potionem ab hac sola gente perfectissime paratam", cenamque generosam participaret e chile con carne, picadillo, frijoles, tortillas. Post aliquot menses ille commilitonesque, sicut iam Duval, ollas capsici cum carne prunis ferventes, comedentibus subito effugis, avide sentiverunt.to partake of a delicious cup of chocolate, a beverage prepared only in perfection by these people, while an abundant repast of chile con carne, picadillo, and frijoles, with tortillas, were being served up:  p. 137. What was most interesting to our hungry fellows, of all the camp equipage they left behind, were their steaming pots of chile con carne, which, in their hurry to "vamos," they had left upon the embers:  p. 257

, iter imbelle in Novum Mexicum eodem anno faciens, prima ephemeridographorum hoc ferculum apud colonos admodum pauperes descripsit:
Dein cena: sex tortillae de , caseus, duae ollae fictiles quibus mixtura carnis, capsicorum viridum (chilly verde), ceparum bullita est. Nec cultella, nec furcillas, nec coclearia habuimus sed ut melius potuimus duplicem tortillae frustum quaque buccella prehendimus. Buccellae vero paucae sumptae sunt: ferculum tam forte palatoque meo inusitatum haud comedere potui.And then the dinner: half a dozen tortillas made of blue corn ... a cheese ... and two earthen jollas of a mixture of meat, chilly verde and onions boiled together ... We had neither knives, forks, or spoons, but made as good substitutes as we could by doubling a piece of tortilla at every mouthful—but, by the by, there were few mouthfuls taken, for I could not eat a dish so strong and unaccustomed to my palate:  p. 94

His verbis nomen chile verde, quo Neomexicani hodierni ferculum nuncupare solent, apud eos e viridibus capsicis varietatum indigenarum factum, prima suggessit. Tale nomen capsicorum maturiorum (quae in Texia adhibita sunt), chili colorado, inter primos O. Henry mythistoricus contextu simili adduxerit. Ille enim, Antoniopoli saeculo XX ineunte habitans, heroem mythistoriae brevis incolam huius urbis finxit, locus videlicet ubi ante septuaginta annos J. C. Clopper capsicum e carne observaverat. Ibi praeter alias urbes hoc ferculum a coquis cauponisque origine Hispanis in plateis venditabatur:
Noctu saepe illis praesepibus versus vagans delectabile chili-con-carne gustabat, ferculum ingenio Mexicano evolutum, e delicatis carnibus cum herbis aromaticis pungentique capsico rubro (chili colorado) compositum, singulari sapore ardentique aculeo plenum a quo palatum hominis Meridiani placeretur.Often had Tansey strolled down to these stands at night to partake of the delectable chili-con-carne, a dish evolved by the genius of Mexico, composed of delicate meats minced with aromatic herbs and the poignant chili colorado—a compound full of singular savour and a fiery zest delightful to the Southern’s [1909: Southron's] palate:  p. 754
Mythus urbanus "reginarum capsicorum", i.e. cauponarum pulchrarum Antoniopolitanarum capsicum e carne venditantium, eis annis (sed non e scriptis O. Henry) ortus est, locus classicus gastronomiae Texanae.

 De praeceptis variis 
Capsicum e carne, pluribus locis evolutum, variis modis conficitur: apud Mexicanos spretum, a Neomexicanis appetenter sumptum, a Texanis usque ad invidiam amatur: sunt enimvero qui praecepta Texana, neque alia, recipienda suadent.  musicus "nihil est," ait, "nisi jazz, quod spiritum animumque magis sublevet quam bona patera capsici: Congressus legem ferat ut popina, capsicum offerens, praeceptis Texanis tantum conficiat".Next to jazz music, there is nothing that lifts the spirit and strengthens the soul more than a good bowl of chili ... Congress should pass a law making it mandatory for all restaurants serving chili to follow a Texas recipe: , epistola ( pp. 12-14)

Inter Texanos aegre diiudicatur. Capsicum e carne a coquis apud popinas Lang's chili olim optime inferri dicitur, pp. 19-20 aut a bubulcis Texanis ad contubernales pascendos paratum. Praeceptum a coqua Zephyr Wright in usum praesidis Lyndon Baines Johnson adhibitum laudabatur, quod uxor huius sub titulo Pedernales River chili divulgaverit (ex appellatione cuiusdam latifundii ad familiam Johnson pertinentis).Pedernales River chili: Claudia Alta Taylor Johnson, epistola ( pp. 14-15, ubi praeceptum datur) Praecepta Neomexicana chile verde haud multo a Texanis differunt nisi quod capsica viridia aliter ad coquendum parantur. pp. 20-21

Elisabetha Taylor actrix ferculum apud popinam occidentalissimam Chasen's, Ruscisilvae in California florentem, tanto appetivit ut, Romae morans, arcam capsici e carne Ruscisilvani sibi cursu aërio mitti mandavit. pp. 43-45 ubi praeceptum datur Plurimi per orbem terrarum his diebus capsicum e carne aut congelatum (brick chili nuncupatum) aut in capsis metallicis missum in tabernis emunt. pp. 58-61; Lindsay Boyers, "The 9 Best Canned Chilis of 2022" apud The Spruce Eats. Cf.  apud Vicipaediam Anglicam

E descriptionibus antiquiores satis liquet capsicum coctum esse ex omni fere carne quam comedentes (saepius aut pauperes aut iter facientes) habere potebant. Texani Neomexicanique recentes certe bubulam praeferunt, cui nonnumquam baconis frustula pauca addunt. Si autem caro venationis provenit, praesertim ex Odocoileo virginiano, minime recusant: praecepta venison chili varia reperiuntur, p. 14;  quorum unum a gubernatore Texiae Roberto Allan Shivers propositum est. Capsicum e carne virginis humanae, quoquo mense ante lunam plenam sumendum, nullibi nisi in mythistoria phantastica O. Henry describitur.The chili-con-carne made not from the beef or the chicken, but from the flesh of the señorita—young and tender ... Everee month you must eat of it ... before the moon is full:  p. 755

 Notae 

 Bibliographia 
 Fontes antiquiores
 1828 : 
 c. 1842 : 
 1846 : 
 1857 : 
 1870 : 
 1898 : , "A revision of the genus Capsicum, with especial reference to garden varieties" in Missouri Botanical Garden Annual Report (1898) pp. 53-110, vide p. 59 "Chilli con carne consists of the small pungent peppers finely ground and mixed with meat. It is much used in the Southern United States"
 1904 : 

 Eruditio
 John G. Bourke, "The Folk-Foods of the Rio Grande Valley and of Northern Mexico" in Journal of American Folklore vol. 8 (1895) pp. 41-71, vide pp. 60-61 et 68

 Gregory McNamee, Tortillas, Tiswin and T-bones: a food history of the southwest (Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 2017) pp. 70-71, 151, 187
 Keith J. Guenther, "The Development of the Mexican-American Cuisine" in * Alan Davidson, ed., National and Regional Styles of Cookery: Proceedings: Oxford Symposium 1981 (Londinii: Prospect Books, 1981) 
 Jeffrey M. Pilcher, Planet Taco: a global history of Mexican food (Novi Eboraci: Oxford University Press, 2012) pp. 66-67
 Jeffrey M. Pilcher, Donna R. Gabaccia, "‘Chili Queens’ and Checkered Tablecloths: Public Dining Cultures of Italians in New York City and Mexicans in San Antonio, Texas, 1870s–1940s" in Radical History Review no. 110 (2011) pp. 109–126




 Praecepta culinaria
 1877/1890 : The Recipe Book of Lillie Hitchcock Coit (editio Berkeleiae: Friends of the Bancroft Library, 1998)
 1953 : 
 1965 : Mary Faulk Koock, The Texas Cookbook (Denton Texiae: University of North Texas Press) p. 49 editionis 2001 (Venison Chili)
 1986 : Joanne Smith, Texas Highways Cookbook (Austinopoli: University of Texas Press) p. 47 (Venison Chili)

 Gastronomia Antoniopolitana

 Nexus externi 
 Chili Appreciation Society International



Categoria:Fercula e capsicis
Categoria:Fercula e carnibus
Categoria:Cibus promptus
Categoria:Gastronomia Texana
Categoria:Ars coquinaria Mexicana
Categoria:Gastronomia Neomexicana