Azzedine Alaïa

Azedine Alaïa  ; Arabic  ,; 26 February 1935 – 18 Nọvemba 2017) bụ onye Tunisian couturier na onye na-emepụta akpụkpọ ụkwụ, karịsịa ihe ịga nke ọma na-amalite na 1980s.

 Ndụ mbido 
A mụrụ Alaïa na Tunis, French Tunisia, na 26 February 1935. In French : Laurence Benaïm, Azzedine Alaïa, le Prince des lignes, Éditions Grasset & Fasquelle (collection Documents Français), October 2013, Paris, 978-2-246-81055-1, p. 77 "Lui [Azzedine Alaïa], dont les intimes ignorent également la date exacte de son années de naissance. Né un 26 février, […]" Nne na nna ya bụ ndị ọrụ ugbo ọka wit, mana nwanne ya nwanyị ejima mara mma, Hafida, kpaliri ịhụnanya o nwere maka uwe ejiji .  Otu enyi French nke nne ya, Oriakụ Pineau, nyere ihe okike nke Alaïa nri na mbipụta Vogue . Ọ ghaara ụgha banyere afọ ndụ ya  iji banye na Tunis Institute of Fine Arts, ụlọ akwụkwọ nke nkà na ụzụ dị na Tunis, bụ ebe ọ nwetara nghọta bara uru n'ụdị mmadụ wee malite ịmụ ihe ọkpụkpụ.  Ya na nwanne ya nwanyị na-arụ ọrụ dị ka onye na-akwa akwa iji kwụọ ụgwọ ụlọ akwụkwọ. 

 Ọrụ 
Mgbe ọ gụsịrị akwụkwọ, Alaïa malitere ịrụ ọrụ dị ka onye inyeaka na-akwa uwe. N'oge na-adịghị anya ọ malitere iyi uwe ndị ahịa nkeonwe, na 1957 ọ kwagara Paris ịrụ ọrụ na imepụta ejiji . 
Na Paris, ọ malitere ịrụ ọrụ na Christian Dior dị ka ọdụ ụgbọ elu, Kellogg, Ann (2002).  ma ọ ga-ahapụ ụbọchị ise ka agha Algeria dara, n'oge na-  anya ọ kwagara Guy Laroche maka oge abụọ, wee ruo Thierry Mugler ruo mgbe. ọ mepere atelier mbụ ya na obere ụlọ rue de Bellechasse ya na njedebe 1970s.  Ọ bụ na obere atelier a ka ihe fọrọ nke nta ka ọ bụrụ 20 afọ ọ na-eyiri ndị otu ụgbọ elu ụwa na nzuzo, site na Marie-Hélène de Rothschild ruo Louise de Vilmorin (onye ga-abụ ezigbo enyi) Greta Garbo, onye na-abịa incognito maka ihe ndozi ya.  Ọ chịpụrụ uwe ochie ndị Madeleine Vionnet na Cristobal Balenciaga haziri iji mụọ otú e si emepụta ha, ma tinyezie ha ọnụ.  Ọ nọgidere na-enwe ọbụbụenyi ya na onye bụbu onye ọrụ Thierry Mugler ma mekwara Claude Montana enyi.  Ha niile ga-emetụta ibe ha, a na-akpọkarịkwa ha n'otu ume n'ime afọ 1980.   

Ọ mepụtara mkpokọta njikere iyi uwe mbụ ya na 1980 wee kwaga na nnukwu ụlọ na rue du Parc-Royal na mpaghara Marais . Ọrụ ya gbagoro elu mgbe abụọ n'ime ndị editọ ejiji kachasị ike n'oge ahụ, Melka Tréanton nke Dépèche Mode na Nicole Crassat nke French Elle, kwadoro ya na nchịkọta akụkọ ha na-esote nchịkọta ahụ,    na ndị edemede ejiji na ọha na eze na-anakwere otu ụzọ uwe gauntlet ojii ya grommeted,   uwe aka bụ ịhụnanya pụrụ iche nke onye nrụpụta. 

Mgbe e mesịrị na 1980, mgbe onye mmebe ime ụlọ Andrée Putman ji otu n'ime uwe akpụkpọ anụ Alaïa mbụ na-aga Madison Avenue, onye na-azụ ahịa Bergdorf Goodman kwụsịrị ya bụ onye jụrụ ya ihe ọ na-eyi, bụ nke malitere mgbanwe nke na-eduga n'ichepụta ya. A na-ere ya na New York City na na Beverly Hills .  Mgbe uwe ya mechara rute New York, nke mbụ na Bergdorf Goodman na 1982,  e weere ya dị ka ihe dị mkpa nke na New York Times mechara depụta ya dị ka otu n'ime ihe omume dị ịrịba ama nke gbanwere ọdịdị omenala obodo ahụ.  Afọ atọ ka e mesịrị, ndị Fans 10,000 gbara akwụkwọ maka tiketi 1,500 na mbụ US na-egosi n'obodo ahụ na Palladium meghere na nso nso a,  onye Alaïa nyere uwe ndị ọrụ nchere. 

N'ịchọ usoro nke oge ahụ na n'adịghị ka ezigbo enyi ya bụ Thierry Mugler, Alaïa na-ahapụkarị nnukwu ogige, ụlọ ịgba egwu, na ihe nkiri maka ihe ngosi ya, na-edobe omenala, ihe ngosi ụlọ ezumike na-egosi na ọbịbịa na-akpachi anya na uwe dị  .  nke o gosipụtara na usoro nke ya, ọ bụghị na-agbaso "izu ejiji" blitzkrieg nke ihe ngosi ndị ọzọ na-emepụta na-etinye ugboro abụọ n'afọ.  Ọ bụrụ na ike gwụrụ ya n'ihi oge ọ na-aga nke ọma nke ahịa dị elu  na ọrụ dị arọ nke kpatara ya, ọ nwere ike ọ gaghị egosi n'oge na-esote.  

Amara atụmatụ Alaïa maka ịdị mma ha siri ike,   ịkwa akwa akwa,    na-eme mkpọtụ,  ọrụ akpụkpọ anụ,   na imepụta ihe eji akwa akwa. .   Agba ndị ọ masịrị na-adabere na somber, na-abụkarị ndị na-anọpụ iche na ụda ala, ọmarịcha ịkpụ ya na nkwalite ahụ doro anya na-ebu mmetụta.  N'afọ ndị mbụ ya n'onwe ya, ọ kwadoro ubu sara mbara     bụ akụkụ nke mweghachi nke ụdị 1940s malitere n'ọtụtụ ụlọ ọrụ na 1978 na ndị enyi ya bụ Thierry na-ekwubiga ya ókè. Mugler na Claude Montana . Ahụ ya mesiri ike karịa nke ndị ọrụ ibe ya, n'agbanyeghị, ọ ghọrọ mbinye aka ya.   Ọ bụ ezie na ọ na-adaberekarị na mma, ịkpụ, na ịkwa akwa iji kpughee ahụ,  na mmalite nineties ọ nọ na-etinye corselet  na wiring bust. 

Ọ nwere mmetụta dị ukwuu n'ime 1980s,   ya na ọtụtụ ndị na-emepụta na-eṅomi silhouette ya dị oke egwu,   karịsịa ya nke ọma gburu peplums na-adịghị mma nke 1985,   ihe fọrọ nke nta ka ọ bụrụ ihe na-ebuli elu site na ụdị egosiri. n'afọ 1935 site n'aka Alix, onye n'aka nke na-atụgharịkwa uwe emume omenala Balinese.  Nke ọzọ n'ime onyinye ya n'etiti afọ 1980, akwa bandeeji,   ka anabatara na 1990 na nnukwu ihe ịga nke ọma site n'aka mmebe Hervé Léger dị ka ụdị mbinye aka nke onye nrụpụta ahụ.

A họpụtara Alaïa ka ọ bụrụ onye nrụpụta kacha mma nke afọ na mkpokọta kacha mma nke afọ na Oscars de la Mode site n'aka Ministri Omenala France na 1984  na emume echefu echefu ebe onye na-agụ Jamaica bụ Grace Jones buuru ya n'aka ya na ogbo.

Ka ọ na-erule 1988, o meghere ụlọ ahịa nke ya na New York City na Beverly Hills na na Paris. Uwe ya na-adọrọ adọrọ, nke na-arapara bụ nnukwu ihe ịga nke ọma na mgbasa ozi kpọrọ ya 'Eze Cling'.  Ndị na-efe ofufe gụnyere ma ndị na-eme ememme ejiji na ndị ejiji: Grace Jones (yiri ọtụtụ ihe okike ya na A View to a Kill ),  Tina Turner,  Raquel Welch,  Madonna,  Janet Jackson,  3]  Brigitte Nielsen,  Naomi Campbell, Blanks, Tim (February 2019).  Stephanie Seymour, Tatiana Sorokko, Shakira, Franca Sozzani, Isabelle Aubin, Carine Roitfeld, na Carla Sozzani . [ a chọrọ nkọwa ]

Ọ bụ ezie na ọtụtụ ndị toro ụdị ọrụ ya na nka ya,   ọ gbanarịghị nkatọ. Ọ bụ akụkụ nke otu ndị na-emepụta ihe malitere na 1978 iji mee ka mkpughe ahụ pụta ìhè, ụdị ndị mmadụ lekwasịrị anya nke 1940s na 1950s,    ka oge na-aga na njedebe 1960s na 70s mgbe uwe ụmụ nwanyị nwere. na-adị obere mkpakọ, ghara ilekwasị anya na flirtatious coquetry, ọzọ eke, ntụsara ahụ, na bara uru.    Ụfọdụ hụrụ uwe mwụda ndị siri ike, bọs a kpụrụ akpụ, úkwù ndị a kpụrụ akpụ, na ikiri ụkwụ dị elu nke Mugler, Montana, Alaïa, na ọtụtụ ndị ọzọ dị ka ndị na-emegharị emegharị,     ịkwa emo nke ụmụ nwanyị meriri na nso nso a. ntọhapụ n'aka nwoke na-ekwu.     Ndị ọzọ hụrụ uwe Alaïa karịsịa ka ọ bụ naanị ndị nwere ahụ zuru oke ga-eyi, na ọbụna mgbe ahụ ọ bụchaghị ihe na-atọ ụtọ.   Alaïa na ndị na-akwado ya dị iche iche,  onye mmepụta n'onwe ya na-ekwu na ọbụna ụmụ nwanyị zuru oke na-ele anya nke ọma na uwe ya   na ndị ọzọ na-achọpụta na uwe dabara adaba emeghachila mmasị mgbe afọ iri gachara, uwe na-asọ asọ nwere. bụrụ ụkpụrụ. 
N'ime etiti 1990, mgbe nwanne ya nwanyị nwụsịrị, Alaïa fọrọ nke nta ka ọ pụọ na ebe ejiji; Otú ọ dị, ọ gara n'ihu na-elekọta ndị ahịa nkeonwe ma nwee ọganihu azụmahịa site na ahịrị ya dị njikere iyi.  O gosipụtara mkpokọta ya na oghere nke ya, n'ime obi Marais, bụ ebe o wetara ihe omumu ihe omumu ya, boutique na showroom n'okpuru otu ulo. 

Na 1996 o sonyere na Biennale della Moda na Florence, ebe yana eserese site na enyi ogologo oge Julian Schnabel, o gosipụtara uwe mara mma nke e kere maka ihe omume ahụ. Ngwongwo ndị Schnabel chepụtara, yana akwa akwa ya, ka na-achọ ụlọ ahịa Alaïa dị na Paris mma. 

Ọ bịanyere aka na mmekorita ya na otu Prada na 2000. Na-arụ ọrụ na Prada hụrụ ya site a nke abụọ nnukwu renaissance, na na July 2007, ọ ọma zụtara azụ ya ụlọ na ika aha si Prada otu, ọ bụ ezie na ya akpụkpọ ụkwụ na akpụkpọ anụ nkewa na-anọgide na-mepụtara na-emepụta site otu.  Na 2007, otu Richemont, nke nwere Cartier na Van Cleef &amp; Arpels, weere òkè na ụlọ ejiji ya ma ọ ka na-egosighị n'oge nchịkọta. 

Otú ọ dị, Alaïa ka jụrụ echiche nke ịzụ ahịa nke okomoko, na-elekwasị anya na uwe kama ịbụ "akpa ya". A na-asọpụrụ Alaïa maka nnwere onwe ya na agụụ maka okomoko dị akọ. Catherine Lardeur, onye bụbu onye nchịkọta akụkọ nke French Marie Claire na 1980, onye nyekwara aka ịmalite ọrụ Jean-Paul Gaultier, kwuru na N'ajụjụ ọnụ na magazin Crowd na "Ejiji anwụọla. Ndị na-emepụta ihe n'oge a adịghị emepụta ihe ọ bụla., Ha na - eme naanị uwe ka ndị mmadụ na ndị na-ebipụta akwụkwọ na-ekwu okwu banyere ha Ọ na-ejide naanị ihe ngosi ejiji mgbe o nwere ihe ọ ga-egosi, na oge nke ya, ọbụlagodi mgbe Prada nwere ya, ọ nọgidere na-enwere onwe ya ma mee ihe ọ chọrọ ime." 

Michelle Obama bụ onye ahịa Alaïa oge niile.  Nwanyị nwanyị mbụ yi uwe ojii na-enweghị aka na uwe mwụda mara mma nke Alaïa mere maka nri abalị NATO na ndị isi steeti na Strasbourg, France, na 3 Eprel 2009. Ọzọkwa na 2009, Michelle Obama yi uwe Alaïa na American Ballet Theatre 's oghere-abali Spring Gala na New York.  Nhọrọ nke ejiji nke Tunisian couturier mebiri na omenala nke American First Ladies bụ ndị na-eyi nanị uwe nke ndị America na-emepụta ihe ndị dị otú ahụ. 

Nwanyị mbụ nke France, Carla Bruni, yikwara jaket Alaïa n'oge nleta steeti na Spain na 2009.

Madonna kwanyere ya ugwu na vidiyo 1993 " Bad Girl ". Ọ na-adọkapụ plastik ahụ uwe ya ekpochapụrụ akpọnwụ, nke akara ya na-agụ "Alaïa."

Ndị ọchịchị France kpọrọ Alaïa onye Knight na Legion of Honor nke France na 2008.  O doro anya na ọ jụrụ nkwanye ùgwù ahụ na-ekwu na "Ajụrụ m n'ihi na achọghị m ịchọ mma - ma e wezụga na ụmụ nwanyị. ”  Ọ jụrụ ọtụtụ ihe nrite ndị ọzọ yiri nke ahụ na-ekwupụta na nsọpụrụ kacha mma bụ nwa amaala France nyere ya. 

Lady Gaga yikwara ọtụtụ n'ime ihe ndị o kere, karịsịa na ekele ekele ya, mgbe ọ na-eyi uwe ogologo ọdịda 2011. 

Ihe okike ya bụkwa Beyoncé, Nicki Minaj, Victoria Beckham, Kim Kardashian, Gwyneth Paltrow, Solange Knowles, Behati Prinsloo na ndị ọzọ. [ a chọrọ nkọwa ]

Mgbe a gbara ajụjụ ọnụ na The Ground Social & Magazine (nke a na-akpọbu Virgine ), Alaïa katọrọ ma Anna Wintour na Karl Lagerfeld . Alaïa, mgbe ahụ 71 ma dabere na Paris, kwuru banyere onye nduzi okike Chanel Lagerfeld, "Enweghị m mmasị na ejiji ya, mmụọ ya, àgwà ya. Ọ bụ nnukwu caricature. Karl Lagerfeld emetụghị otu ụzọ mkpa na ndụ ya." Alaïa kwukwara okwu na onye isi nchịkọta akụkọ Vogue : "Ọ na-arụ ọrụ ahụ nke ọma, ma ọ bụghị akụkụ nke ejiji. Mgbe m hụrụ otú o si yi uwe, anaghị m ekwenye na mmasị ya otu sekọnd ... Ka o sina dị, onye ga-echeta Anna Wintour na akụkọ ihe mere eme nke ejiji? 

N'afọ 2018, Mariah Carey kpọrọ Alaia aha na egwu ya " A Mba " site na album Akpachara anya : "Nweta omenala uwe pink nke Alaia". 

Na 10 May 2018, ihe ngosi nlegharị anya raara onwe ya nye na ememe Alaïa mere na Museum Design na London. 

Onye isi ihe nkiri Julian Schnabel nyefere ihe nkiri ya At Eternity's Gate nye Azedine Alaïa. 

 Hụkwa 


 Legion nke Sọpụrụ
 Legion of Honor Museum
 Ndepụta nke Legion of Honor nnata n'aha (A)
 Ribbons nke ndị agha France na onyinye obodo

 Ntụaka 

 Njikọ mpụga 

 Azzedine Alaïa at FMD
Òtù:Pages with unreviewed translations