nyuuzyou/wikis huggingface dataset:
AR Drone 2/AT Commands

AR Drone 2
The AR.Drone 2 AT command protocol is used to control the AR.Drone 2 over wifi. The full documentation can be found in the documentation of The AR.Drone open API which is available at Parrot Developer. The developer guide in the Docs folder of the SDK should explain everything. The basic information is shown below.
== Setting up a connection ==
To be able to send AT commands to the AR.Drone 2 you need to connect to the AR.Drone 2 wifi. When connected to the AR.Drone 2 wifi you need to create a connection to the AR.Drone 2 UDP port 5556, where all the AT command will be send over. Because of the latency it is advised to send AT commands every 30 milliseconds and to prevent WIFI connection lost you must send a constructive AT command every 2 seconds.
== AT commands ==
The AT commands are encoded as 8-bit ASCII characters with a carriage return "<CR>" as a newline delimeter. All AT commands start with "AT*" followed by a command name, a equals sign, a sequence number(starting with 1, which also resets the sequence number), and optionally a list of comma-seperated arguments for the command.
Here is a short reference of all the available AT commands, for more information see the AR.Drone open API documentation.
* AT*REF (input) - Takeoff/Landing/Emergency stop command
* AT*PCMD (flag, roll, pitch, gaz, yaw) - Move the drone
* AT*PCMD_MAG (flag, roll, pitch, gaz, yaw, psi, psi accuracy) - Move the drone (With Absolute Control support)
* AT*FTRIM - Sets the reference for the horizontal plane (The drone must be on the ground)
* AT*CONFIG (key, value) - Configuration of the AR.Drone 2
* AT*CONFIG_IDS (session, user, application ids) - Identifiers for AT*CONFIG commands
* AT*COMWDG - Reset the communication watchdog
* AT*CALIB (device number) - Aks the drone to calibrate the magneto meter (The drone must be flying)
Category: AR Drone 2
AR Drone 2/GPS

AR Drone 2
To fly autonomous to a certain geo coordinate a GPS is needed. Although it is theoretically possible to use the original orange Parrot GPS dongle it is not advised, the performance is just not good enough for great autonomous flights. The solution that is advised is to use an uBlox GPS module.
== uBlox ==
=== uBlox via serial ===
A FTDI TTL 232R 3V3 WE cable is used, where - WE stans for wire ended. 3V3 operates at +3.3V levels (signals only, VCC= +5V)
To connect a uBlox with Helix antenna via a USB to serial cable that you can just plug into your ARdrone 2
Example of a via USB connected uBlox Helix GPS for Parrot ARDrone2
==== Pinout colors ====
TTL - 232R - 5V, TTL - 232R - 3V3 Connector color coding
Pin	Color 	Abr.Color
1 	Black 	BK
2 	Brown 	BN
3 	Red 	RD
4 	Orange	OG
5 	Yellow	YE
6 	Green 	GN
==== How the connector is prepared ====
#A sharp knive deep in the outer end, the part where the wire come out, this will damage the first part of the wires, but that is OK, it will be cut of and not be used.
#Cut a along the whole wire till the USB connector begin
#Peel ot the wires in the begin
#Grab all the wires of the cable end stringly in your hand
#With one continuous pull, pull the wires out of the black outer plastic. With a cut alone the line this shoud go, just apply force.
# You are done!
=== uBlox via USB ===
complete me...
# load cdcacm kernel module
# change UART1_DEV to e.g. /dev/ttyACM0
== Parrot GPS Dongle ==
Use the sirf gps subsystem.
=== Connecting the Parrot GPS Dongle ===
When we connected the GPS Receiver (GPS) to the AR Drone 2.0 (Drone) and searched on the Drone, we found out that nothing happened. After some research we found out that there was no USB serial driver available on the Drone to recognize the GPS. From USGlobalstat, the manufacturer of the GPS, we found out that we needed an pl2303 driver. On the internet another project was reported and there they were installing drivers for the Drone. We followed these steps but some errors occurred because we are using an AR Drone 2.0.
Once we found out that the Drone is running another version of Linux we have to change that. We had also some troubles with finding the right .config file to use. Finally we were able to make the modules, including the usbserial and pl2303, for the Drone.
From the make step we were getting 2 files, usbserial.ko and pl2303.ko. We put those files on the Drone by using FTP. Once the files are on the Drone we connected to the Drone by Telnet and went to the /data/video folder were the files we located. By insmodding the .ko files we installed the drivers on the linux system and we were able to connect the GPS to the Drone. 
After connecting the GPS was recognized and was mounted to /dev/ttyUSB0.
== Links ==
* http://forum.parrot.com/ardrone/en/viewtopic.php?id=5331
* http://www.dronetec.co.uk/quadmod.html
Category:AR Drone 2
AR Drone 2/NAV board

AR Drone 2
At the time we were investingating the NAV board we were also looking into drivers for the motor. From that research we found that the device name for the motors was /dev/ttyO1. Next in the AR.Drone SDK, which we don't use for programming, we found a file called ardrone_common_config.h in which the navboard command numbers are listed. This list does not give a lot of information, but does give us an indication to get started.
There are at least 3 commands that seem usefull:
 00032 ADC_CMD_STARTACQ = 1, // to start the acquisition
 00033 ADC_CMD_STOPACQ = 2, // to stop the acquisition
 00034 ADC_CMD_RESYNC = 3, // to restart the acquisition
After starting the acquisition and performing a hexdump on the data read from /dev/ttyO1 we could see the data flowing in:
 echo -e -n "\1" > /dev/ttyO1
 dd if=/dev/ttyO1 count=1 bs=60 | hexdump -C
Returns a part of a stream that looks like this:
 00000000 3a 00 85 2c fc 07 e8 07 e8 09 d8 ff 3e 00 fc ff |:..,........>...|
 00000010 9b 00 d7 d9 6c 03 00 00 00 00 ae 0e 00 00 00 00 |....l...........|
 00000020 00 00 00 00 01 00 ca 25 30 00 06 00 01 00 93 80 |.......%0.......|
 00000030 00 00 6c e6 0c 00 fe ff 1a 00 14 c0 3a 00 86 2c |..l.........:..,|
 00000040 fc 07 e8 07 e8 09 d9 ff 3c 00 fb ff 9b 00 d3 d9 |........<.......|
 00000050 6c 03 00 00 00 00 ae 0e 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 |l...............|
 00000060 01 00 ca 25 30 00 06 00 01 00 93 80 00 00 6c e6 |...%0.........l.|
 00000070 0c 00 fe ff 1a 00 0f c0 3a 00 87 2c fc 07 e8 07 |........:..,....|
 ...
The stream of data consisted of 60 byte long sequences of which the first byte always seemed to be 3a = 58.
This number is the size of the payload, which are the bytes after 3a 00. We do not know the purpose of the 00 after 3a.
After this we realized that it would be hard to find the offsets of the sensor data by just looking at the stream above. We built a driver that logged the data in a tabular way.
By doing this we could then rotate the AR.Drone2 around one axis and then look what values were changing in the log file. For acceleration and gyroscope data we used a simmilar technique.
==Internal Measurement Unit Calibration==
In calibrating the Internal Measurement Unit (IMU) on the AR Drone, the Paparazzi IMU Calibration protocol was followed. Once these steps have been followed, having already initialized a ground control station, the AR Drone can produce an accurate Primary Flight Display (PFD) through Paparazzi. Issues that arise can stem from too slow a refresh rate and thusly a lagging PFD. This leads to a greater problem, namely, a reaction rate that is simply too slow; If the current state refreshes too slowly, naturally, the drone will react slowly and in most cases be very unstable. While moving the AR Drone through the air, by hand, the PFD will display these movements, albeit slowly; when placed back on the ground, or any other surface, the PFD will eventually display the corresponding attitude of the AR Drone. 
Category: AR Drone 2
ATmega168 PPM Encoder Board

PLEASE USE NEW PPM ENCODER PAGE
Thanks to Chris we have a way to use virtually any RC receiver with Paparazzi without any modifications to the receiver.
This board plugs into the servo output ports on a R/C receiver and encodes them into a single PPM pulse suitable for the paparazzi autopilot. It is also possible to remap channels by changing the connection between the receiver and the encoder. Want Tx ch5 to be output on ch7 of the ppm stream? Just connect the Ch5 signal from the receiver to the Ch7 input on the encoder.
Note: see the ATmega328_PPM_Encoder_Board page for the more recent hardware version. Wiki refactor in progress, these pages will be merged.
= Programming the PPM encoder =
Programming the board can easily be accomplished using an AVR ISP (in-serial programming) programmer. These are inexpensive and can be found many places online. Once you have the ISP connected to the PPM encoder, simply use avrdude with the following command:
avrdude -p atmega168 -P <Insert port here> -c <Insert ISP type here> -U lfuse:w:0b00100010:m -U efuse:w:0b111:m -U flash:w:servo2ppm+bootloader.hex
-----
Source files
:*Link to firmware file: [PPM Encoder Eagle and latest (4.3 Feb 2010) firmware (zip)]
The above link is to ATmega326 firmware. If you load that onto ATmega168 hardware, the LED won't blink as described in the users manual (but otherwise the PPM encoder seems to work). To build firmware that works correctly on the ATmega168 hardware, edit the makefile. Find this:
 # The below fuse settings are for the 328p
 #Low fuse is the same for the mega 328 and mega 168
 LOW_FUSE_328 = 0xDF
 #High fuse sets sets the bootsize on 328 and the bodlevel in 168
 HIGH_FUSE_328 = 0xD8
 #Extended fuse sets the bodlevel only on 328 but it sets the bootsize on 168
 EXTENDED_FUSE_328 = 0xFC
 LOCK_FUSE_328 = 0xFF
and replace with:
 # The below fuse settings are for the mega168
 #Low fuse is the same for the mega 328 and mega 168
 LOW_FUSE_168 = 0xC2
 #High fuse sets sets the bootsize on 328 and the bodlevel in 168
 HIGH_FUSE_168 = 0xDC
 #Extended fuse sets the bodlevel only on 328 but it sets the bootsize on 168
 EXTENDED_FUSE_168 = 0xF8
 LOCK_FUSE_168 = 0xFF
Then "make program" (to write the fllash) and "make fuse_write" (to write the fuses).
Gerber & Drill files
:*download "PPM Encoder Eagle design files 4.3(zip)"
:*download PPM Encoder gerber & drill files (zip)
:*download ""
Category:Hardware Category:RC
Airframes

__TOC__
== Parrot Disco ==
	
The Parrot Disco is blended wing aircraft. Simple smooth flight via Paparazzi 
 
More details...
== Trashcan ==
	
The Trashcan is a racing quadrotor. Of the shelf hardware and can run Paparazzi 
 
More details...
== NoVa Quadrotor ==
	
The NoVa is an attitude stabilized quadrotor. It utilizes paparazzi hardware as well as a 6DOF IMU. 
 
More details...
== Multiplex FunJet ==
	
The FunJet is a new electric pusher-prop model from Multiplex made of durable and CA safe Elapor foam. It offers plenty of room internally for avionics in an attractive package. 
 
More details...
== ENAC Solar Storm ==
	
	
The Solar-Storm is the result of a conceptual design study for a Hybrid-Solar cell powered MAV.
More details...
== Mini Telemaster ==
	
The Telemaster is a great platform for a new Paparazzi user. It provides a stable platform to help a new user get used to the amazing Paparazzi system.
 
More details...
== Jet powered ==
left|Jet powered	
The Jet powered is a special implementation of the Paparazzi system. The TWOG produces a very stable flight with only IR sensors for this huge glider.
 
More details...
== Hobbyking Bixler ==
	
The Hobbyking Bixler is a cheap copy of the Multiplex EasyStar. It is very inexpensive, easy to obtain and provides superbly easy flying for beginners. Moderately high payloads are possible.
The Bixler is a five channel aircraft with Aileron, Rudder and Elevator.
 
More details...
== SUMO ==
{|
|-valign="top"
|
|
The SUMO is build by the Geophysical Institute of the University of Bergen, Norway. It uses industry standard sensors for temperature, air pressure, humidity and wind speed/direction as well as more specialized sensors as infrared/visible light radiation, particle concentration or ionizing radiation (full list). It has been used in many measurement campaigns by various research institutions. Get a peek at some miscellaneous SUMO airframe notes here.
 
A very detailed page with about the Hardware and how to build a SUMO here
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AutopilotModes

__TOC__
Paparazzi allows you to define three modes, MANUAL, AUTO1 and AUTO2 , which are associated to a 3-position switch of your remote.
== Mode mapping ==
Because especially rotorcraft can be operated in multiple modes, you can define the mapping to these three easily switchable modes in your airframe file. Moreover, the mode associated to AUTO2 can be changed in the Settings tab of the GCS.
In the following text, the typical configuration is described, which is also why (legacy reasons) the three modes were named as they were named.
== Manual ==
The MANUAL flight mode is for directly controling your airframe by your transmitter. 
Caution! Please note that any trims and deflections set in your airframe config file still apply.
When flying in Manual mode please consider the failsafes.
== Auto 1 ==
The AUTO1 is typically used for controller stabilized flight. 
Although the autopilot will keep the airframe level and stabilized, you need to steer the airframe yourself, ie. where you want it to go.
When flying in Auto 1 mode please consider the failsafes.
== Auto 2 ==
In AUTO2 your aircraft is typically fully autonomous in stabilization and navigation. 
You are not required to steer or stabilize the aircraft via your radio.
In such mode, the aircraft follows the flightplan and - as always - commands issued via the GCS.
Beginners Tips

=Beginners Tips=
A collection of stuff that I picked up, from the moment my Tiny V2.11 arrived
==Hardware==
===Molex Connectors===
When crimped, they look like a little L shape. The upright of the L goes towards the bit of the plug with the teeth.
You can get the crimped bits out again, but you need to be very careful and you can't get away with it more than once or twice.
You can cut connectors down to fit - if all you have are tens, use a sharp knife to trim it and it will just fit.
===Power===
Male JST connectors work well, you probably want at a minimum a 9V battery adapter to female JST and DC jack to female JST.
I run my tiny on 9V on the bench, it'll upset the battery warning meter, but it works perfectly and stays fairly cool.
===Lights===
The flashing lights only work when the loaded program uses them, and sometimes not even then.
===Serial Connections===
Beware - the Tiny 1 and Tiny 2 swapped serial ports (or UARTS). For a Tiny 2, UART1 is connected to the computer and UART0 the GPS.
The airframe file needs to be altered to use the right serial ports.
===USB===
Somewhat sadly, you can't run a Tiny from the USB power bus. Make sure you install the UDEV rules as specified here.
The Tiny needs to be connected to USB and then rebooted before you flash it. If it seems to not be behaving properly as a USB device, check power - even if the LEDS are flashing away brightly, the USB seems to be the first thing to start going when the battery is going out.
===Flying it===
You are going to crash. Repeatedly, and hard. Your tiny needs to be protected. I hollowed out a hunk of blue foam, put the tiny in the middle and taped it all up with a hole for the GPS and some air holes for overheating. It seems to work so far.
===Modems===
XBees need to be at the same baud rate as everything else. To set an xbee, you need a serial terminal and 5 seconds. Both minicom and picocom are popular serial terminal packages. 
This place here tells you everything you need to know.
==Software==
===First things===
Always hit clean before you start anything, or if anything won't seem to build.
===Airframes===
You usually want to use the ap build target. However, the default airframe files need to be tweaked for your modem baud rates and tiny model.
If you are using a Tiny 1, microjet5.xml will do the trick. If you are on tiny 2, funjet1.xml is the one for you. If you have a LEA-5H GPS (which is a gooood thing) you need to add a configuration flag to the funjet.xml file - see the GPS page for more info.
===Flightplans===
Stick with basic. For your lat/long, you can either read it straight off the GPS or bookmark this line:
javascript:void(prompt(,gApplication.getMap().getCenter()));
visit google maps, search for your location and click it. It'll give you lat/long to ridiculous accuracy.
6 d.p seems to be the standard for lat/longs in the flightplan file.
And that, ladies and gentleman, is as far as I have got...
Category:User_Documentation
Bixler

The HobbyKing Bixler is a very inexpensive airframe with very easy flight characteristics and reasonable payload capacity. Its price and crash resistant EPO foam construction makes this a plane well suited for beginners.
== Features ==
* Kit price $37 USD
* EPO Foam construction
* Detachable canopy for access to internals
* Easy access cockpit
* Nice and stable slow flight especially for RC beginners
== Specifications ==
* Material: EPO Foam
* Wingspan: 1400mm
* Length: 925mm
* Wing Area: 26dm2
* Wing Loading: 25g/dm2
* Flying Weight: 650g
* Motor: 2620-1900kv Brushless Outrunner 
* ESC: 20A w/BEC 
* Servo: 4 x 9g
* Propeller: 6x5.5 recommended.
== Buy ==
Can be bought directly at HobbyKing 
== Airframe configuration ==
A simple, sample airframe configuration file can be found in conf/airframes/examples/bixler_lisa_m_2.xml 
Attention: No tuning values in this file yet! It is an untested setup.
== Cockpit ==
	HobbyKing also offers a very simple plywood FPV mount which can be used to mount the autopilot. 
Note the Lisa/M board is mounted at a right angle which is the natural orientation of the IMU. This layout also makes wiring much simpler.
This way the IMU is far from the planes' centre of gravity. Mounting the IMU under the wings would be better, but much more complex.
The camera mount for the keyhole camera seen here proved not to be crash resistant enough.
== Mods ==
The plane flies well out of the box. But some modifications are popular:
* Rudder servo can be moved back into the rudder. The original long pushrod in tube setup is far from perfect. Moving the servo into the tail wing will increase accuracy but will also move the centre of gravity severely to the rear. A lot of counterweights in the front will be needed.
* Increase rudder size either by gluing some strong paper or cardboard on the rudder to make it bigger or by cutting the tail fin at the whole length following the hinge and attaching a full height rudder.
* Wings can be designed to be detachable. Just don't glue wings and carbon rod in, and hold wing halves together with Velcro. This makes the wings obviously much more fragile. The original carbon rod is not very strong, even if glued in.
 
Plenty of space is available inside, but much of this space is not very easy to access.
Here the 2.4Ghz XBee telemetry antenna can be seen pushed out to one side. Pointing down in flight.
Large batteries can be fitted without problems.
== Build Tips ==
The foam hinges are very stiff and need to be exercised quite a bit by hand to make them move well.
Booz/AirframeConf

Booz
__TOC__
Trying to explain some values in the Airframe configuration here. 
You set the 3-pos switch values here to select which mode you are in based on the position of the switch:
 <section name="AUTOPILOT">
 <define name="BOOZ2_MODE_MANUAL" value="BOOZ2_AP_MODE_ATTITUDE_DIRECT"/>
 <define name="BOOZ2_MODE_AUTO1" value="BOOZ2_AP_MODE_HOVER_Z_HOLD"/>
 <define name="BOOZ2_MODE_AUTO2" value="BOOZ2_AP_MODE_NAV"/>
 </section>
In this case here pos1 = ATTITUDE, pos2 = HOVER_Z_HOLD and pos3 = NAV mode.
STABILIZATION (Types)
"RATE" stabilization. Set with the STABILIZATION_RATE section name. Here's an example:
<section name="STABILIZATION_RATE" prefix="BOOZ_STABILIZATION_RATE_">
"RATE" mode is for direct control like for a Single Rotor Helicopter.
ATTITUDE MODE
"ATTITUDE" or AUTO1 (computer assisted) stabilization. In this way you are having the autopilot assist with the stabilization just like with AUTO1 with the fixed wing. You use the values to limit or increase gains and rates to tune your aircraft.
Here's an example:
<section name="STABILIZATION_ATTITUDE" prefix="BOOZ_STABILIZATION_ATTITUDE_">
Now some sections:
*setpoints
*reference:
 Omega and Zeta are used to set how responsive or quickly you want the quad to react to stick inputs. 
 Omega's should be between 150 and 800 (deg/s). 
 Zeta should be left at .9 (default). 
 
 GYRO P
 <define name="REF_OMEGA_P" value="RadOfDeg(800)"/>
 <define name="REF_ZETA_P" value="0.85"/>
 <define name="REF_MAX_P" value="RadOfDeg(300.)"/>
 <define name="REF_MAX_PDOT" value="RadOfDeg(7000.)"/>
 GYRO Q
 <define name="REF_OMEGA_Q" value="RadOfDeg(800)"/>
 <define name="REF_ZETA_Q" value="0.85"/>
 <define name="REF_MAX_Q" value="RadOfDeg(300.)"/>
 <define name="REF_MAX_QDOT" value="RadOfDeg(7000.)"/>
 GYRO R
 <define name="REF_OMEGA_R" value="RadOfDeg(500)"/>
 <define name="REF_ZETA_R" value="0.85"/>
 <define name="REF_MAX_R" value="RadOfDeg(180.)"/>
 <define name="REF_MAX_RDOT" value="RadOfDeg(1800.)"/>
*feedback (tuning resistance to disturbances)
Tune the feedback values by hovering in place with no control inputs. If you quad does not stay in one position you need to either balance it (i.e. CG in the center of the quad) or modify these values: TRIM_A (Aileron), TRIM_E (Elevator), TRIM_R (Rudder/Yaw). Do NOT use the RC transmitter to "trim" the quad. Use negative for one direction, positive for the other until the quad will in calm air stay put without inputs from the RC Transmitter. Then you are ready to tune "feedback". Feedback values will adjust how the quad reacts to being disturbed. Push on the quad and see how it reacts. Modify the values to "tune" the proper reaction. 
Category:Software Category:User_Documentation Category:Booz
Booz/Airframes

Booz
__TOC__
== NoVa Quadrotor Frames ==
NoVa frames are a balsa carbon composite frame specifically designed to interface with the Booz electronics. The NoVa frame is also compatible with the X-BL controller. Price for the kit is set at $150, and can be purchased by emailing akochevar at gmail.com. 
240px
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== Mikrokopter ==
Mikrokopter is a popular airframe made of aluminum tubes. You can build your own with material from the hardware store or buy ready made parts from this shop
== Asctec ==
Asctec sells a pretty and pricey carbon frame that can be bought from this shop
Category:Hardware Category:Airframes Category:Booz