nyuuzyou/wikis huggingface dataset:
Mac GPU Repair

== Introduction ==
# GPU reflow is scam. GPU Rehot is scam and always has been. Never reflow GPU if you are not the one who knows thats a drop damage and you gonna reball it afterwards.
# GPU flip is scam. A1286 GPU replacement is scam. There is no such thing as "fixed" or "better" chips with later datacode. 
== AMD VRAM Compatibility ==
if possible always replace AMD gpu with its VRAM if vendor is different. it looks like there are differently marked chips with same model number in system but different ram. Especially the case if you move macbook GPU to iMac.
Below here are known good combinations of GPU+VRAM (either factory variants or manually tested ones):
2016-2017 GPUs:
216-0896074 = (TODO: Model) / Samsung (TODO:Which/capacity)
216-0896144 = Radeon Pro 450 (MacBook A1707 2016) / Elpida (TODO:Which/capacity)
216-0885348 = Radeon Pro 555 (MacBook A1707 2017) / Samsung K4G41325FE-HC28 x4 = Total 2GB || Elpida W4032BABG-70-F x4 = 2GB || Hynix H5GC4H24AJR x4 = Total 2GB
216-0885184 = Radeon Pro 555 (iMac 21.5" 4K 2017) / Hynix H5GC4H24AJR x4 = Total 2GB
216-0885252 = Radeon Pro 555 (iMac 21.5" 4K 2017) / Samsung K4G41325FE-HC28 x4 = Total 2GB
216-0885238 = Radeon Pro 560 (Macbook A1707 2017) / Samsung K4G80325FB-HC28 x4 = Total 4GB
216-0885170 = Radeon Pro 560 (iMac 21.5" 4K 2017) / Hynix H5GQ8H24MJR x4 = Total 4GB
216-0885286 = Radeon Pro 560 (iMac 21.5" 4K 2017) / Hynix H5GC8H24MJR x4 = Total 4GB
2019-2020 GPUs:
215-0932252 = Radeon Pro 5500M (Macbook Pro A2141) / (Samsung K4Z80325BC-HC14 x4 = Total 4GB) || (Samsung K4ZAF325BM-HC14 x4 = Total 8GB)
215-0932268 = Radeon Pro 5300M (Macbook Pro A2141) / (Samsung K4Z80325BC-HC14 x4 = Total 4GB)
215-0932348 = Radeon Pro 5300 (iMac 27" 5K A2115 2020) / Micron D9WCW x4 = Total 4GB
215-0932332 = Radeon Pro 5500XT (iMac 27" 5K A2115 2020) / Micron D9WZX x4 = Total 8GB
== MacBook Pro 2019 16" A2141 GPU failure ==
This issue seems to be a common problem. In many cases it starts with GPU being unable to wake up after sleep and some GPU-related kernel panics after it reboots. Once it progresses, device works only in safe mode. Last step is no post and no image/backlight. Unfortunately there is no good source for new replacement chips, so if you use chips from donor, it is agood idea to get 2 chips and put one aside for warranty. It is also a good practice to give prolonged warranty since it might fail again.
Macbook Lid Angle Sensor Calibration

https://github.com/Vladislav98759/Macbook-Lid-Angle-Sensor-Calibration-Tool/tree/main
This tool can be used to calibrate the new lid angle sensor on the macbook A2141 A2442 A2485 A2779 A2780 A2681.
The programmer has 3 operating modes, the modes are switched by a short push of a button and switched in a circle. You can tell which mode is currently selected by the blinking of the LED (1, 2 and 3, respectively). Each of the modes is activated by pressing the button for a long time (1 second).
In the mode 1, calibration is performed for the PRO series macbooks (A2141, A2442, A2485, A2779, A2780), if the calibration was successfully recorded, the LED will light up for 3 seconds.
In the mode 2, calibration is performed for the AIR series macbooks (A2681), if the calibration record was completed successfully, the LED will light up for 3 seconds.
In mode 3, the function of recognizing the current angle is activated (if the lid is open, the LED lights up, closed - goes out).
Before recording in modes 1 and 2, the tool makes checks for the possibility of flashing, if the sensor is not connected, the LED will blink 3 times, if a sensor removed from another device (calibrated by Apple) is connected, it will blink 6 times.
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Macintosh Portrait Display Cable

Apple DB-15 to 13W3 Pinout	Version 1.0 – October 2020
 	
DB-15 (Male Side) Pin # 	13W3 (Male Side) Pin #
1 	A3 (Outside)
2 	A3 (Inside)
3 	5
4 	9
5 	A2 (Inside)
6 	A2 (Outside)
7 	8
8 	None / Not Connected
9 	A1 (Inside)
10 	3
11 	4, 7, & 10
12 	2
13 	A1 (Outside)
14 	1
15 	6
Connector Sheild 	Connector Sheild
Note! This page only shows the basic pinout of this cable. The original cable may have resistors or other components inside which are unknown to me. If you happen to find additional information on what is needed to replicate this cable, or you successfully build a replacement cable, please contact us or https://mac84.net/ with any additional helpful information you may have.
Pinout for 13W3 to DB-15 cable
Link to Apple's site with pinout
Magsafe Sleep Mode

Magsafe has a "sleep" mode where it sends out 3V or 6V (Magsafe2/Magsafe1) when disconnected. It is unrelated to 1-wire.
It measures the current going out and when you connect it to a Macbook, it will detect the small current consumption of the small resistor between PPDCIN_G3H and ground. (22k, 68k…, R7012 on 820-3437)
If it detects a current consumption within the correct range, it'll send out the 16.5V (or 14.8V/18.5V/20V depending on Magsafe power and version).
The Macbook will enable PP3V42_G3H circuit only when voltage is above a threshold, due to the zener diode (D7012 on 820-3437) + MOSFET (Q7010 on 820-3437).
And charger IC (U7100 on 820-3437) will turn on DC-in MOSFET (Q7180 on 820-3437) when it's above a certain threshold as well (on the ACIN pin n°3).
The knockoff Magsafe (or a PSU) don't do that and that's why you can get sparks with them.
When a genuine Magsafe doesn't send out the full voltage but the Macbook works properly with a knockoff or a PSU, it is related to those circuits
Either the resistor between PPDCIN_G3H and ground, the threshold circuit for PP3V42_G3H, or the DC-in MOSFETs and their gate control (resistors and traces).
Most common is a shorted DC-in MOSFET.
Important note: 45W Magsafe 2 charger sends 0.7-0.9V and this is totally fine. If you have no-"Sparkitecture" problem with 45W PSU but it works from 85W, troubleshoot it like "no-genuine charge" problem. 
There might be a funny issue where macbook air works fine with 85W charger but does not activate 45V right after re-plugging it. It might go green after 10-30 seconds or even newer work before you completely discharge ppbus caps. The reason for that would be bad In-Rush mosfet which causes DCIN to get some leaking voltage from PPBUS thus not allowing power supply to be triggered (it turns on once DCIN reaches 0.3v, so if its 3-4V because of leakage, it wont work with magsafe after replug. 
Category:Mac 
Category:MacBook
Mojave Common Issues

== WiFi: No Hardware Installed, sluggish performance after Mojave upgrade ==
If your Mac is running slow and/or your WiFi hardware is missing after upgrading to macOS Mojave, You may have an exisiting incompatible config file from a previous version of Mac OSX. Deleting this file will speed up the operating system and restore Wi-Fi functionality.
If you're booting from a usb drive, make sure to edit the file on the right volume.
1.  Start the terminal app from Applications/Utilities
2.  Check if the file exists, by typing
     ls -l /etc/sysctl.conf 
If this returns a result like the following, then the file exists:   -rw-r--r--  1 root  wheel 125 21 Nov  2016 /etc/sysctl.conf
If it does not, then your issues are caused by something else    
3.  Rename the file: 
    sudo mv /etc/sysctl.conf /etc/sysctl.conf.bak
4.  Restart your computer, and you should be all set, or if you've rolled back to High Sierra, you should be good to attempt the upgrade again.
== Messages Running slow after Mojave Upgrade ==
Your Mac can have a corrupted Contacts database.
Signing out and back in to iCloud isn’t fixing anything because your Mac reusing its local database, and thinking that everything is up to date. Updating a contact is what “rebuilds” its entry, allowing it to be displayed.
Try wiping your local cache to force your MacBook Pro to re-download all of your contacts from iCloud.
# Sign out of iCloud.
# Delete ~/Library/Application Support/AddressBook
# Delete ~/Library/Caches/com.apple.AddressBookSourceSync
# Delete ~/Library/Saved Application State/com.apple.AddressBook.savedState
# Delete ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.AddressBook.plist
# Restart your Mac
# Sign Back into iCloud
Your contacts should all download fresh from iCloud.
(Note: Steps 2 & 3 are really the crucial ones, but the Contacts.app doesn’t have much in the way of preferences, so might as well be thorough.)
Category:Mac
Move iTunes or Music Library

For Catalina - The process is the same but instead of "iTunes" folders you will be using "Music" Folder. 
# Encourage customer to back up their music prior to moving the library.
# Check size of iTunes or Music library is to make sure that it fits in the location that you are moving it to (ie. external hard drive). To do this, right-click "Get Info" on the ~/UserName/Music folder or wherever the music is currently stored.
# Plug in external drive and make sure to quit iTunes/Music if open.
# Open Finder and select the Mac's hard drive.
# Click on the Music Folder
# Select iTunes and drag it to external hard drive. You may need to enter password. For Catalina, there is second folder named "Music" within the first Music folder. This is the one you will move. 
# Once folder is transferred, press the option key and launch iTunes/Music.
# Click on Choose Library.
# Select the external hard drive under devices in Finder sidebar.
# Open iTunes or Music folder.
# Check items in iTunes/Music to make this was successful (you can find info by right-clicking a song and selecting "Get Info" to verify where the file is stored).
# If working, you can either delete the old iTunes/Music library on the internal drive.
# The external MUST be connected when iTunes/Music is launched going forward in order to find the files.
NAND Compatibility

==32/64bit NAND (ALL CROSS COMPATIBLE) LGA60==
===Programmer Needed: NaviPlus===
iPhone 5
iPhone 5s
iPhone 5c
iPhone 6
iPhone 6 Plus
iPad Air 1
iPad Air 2
iPad Mini 1
iPad Mini 2
iPad Mini 3
iPad Mini 4
==PCI-E NAND: (ALL CROSS COMPATIBLE)==
===Programmer Needed: P7===
iPhone 6s
iPhone 6s Plus
iPhone 7
iPhone 7 Plus
iPhone SE (2016)
iPad 5
iPad 6
iPad 7
iPad Pro 12.9 1st Generation 
iPad Pro 12.9 2nd Generation
iPad Pro 9.7
iPad Pro 10.5
==PCI-E 2: (ALL CROSS COMPATIBLE)==
===Programmer Needed: P11===
iPhone 8
iPhone 8 Plus
iPhone X
==Newer Models: (ALL CROSS COMPATIBLE)** READ DISCLAIMER**==
===Programmer Needed: P11===
iPhone XS
iPhone XS Max
iPhone XR
iPhone 11
iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone 11 Pro Max
iPad Pro 12.9 3rd Generation
iPad Pro 12.9 4th Generation
iPad Pro 11 1st Generation
iPad Pro 11 2nd Generation
*DISCLAIMER: If iPad Pro came with Black NAND, it will work with Silver NAND, but may cause issue. If iPad Pro came with Silver NAND, it will work with Black and Silver
NVRAM

Similar to PRAM
Key Combination: Option + Command + P + R
Stands for "Non-volatile Random-Access Memory", NVRAM is Random-Access Memory that stores information that's accessed during boot even before the OS X bootloader kicks in. NVRAM stores information for Volume, screen resolution, time zone information, and which disk to boot from. Corrupt NVRAM can cause glitches and prevent the machine from booting, and while clearing it may not solve the problem, its always a good first step.
Option ROM

An Option ROM is a piece of firmware that resides in BIOS or on an expansion card, which gets shadowed into memory and executed to initialize the device and register it with the BIOS. It is essentially a driver that interfaces between BIOS services and hardware.
=== UEFI Option ROMs ===
The PCI spec allows multiple option ROM images on the same device. These option ROMs could be Legacy x86 & UEFI. If the Option ROM format is set to "UEFI Compatible" in the UEFI Setup, the DXE stage will load the newer UEFI Option ROM if one is present and the legacy Option ROM if one is not. UEFI can use legacy option ROMs when a Compatibility Support Module (CSM) is enabled. Note that when Secure Boot is enabled, execution of the Compatibility Support Module and legacy Option ROMs is prohibited because legacy firmware drivers do not support authentication, which is a security threat.
See Wikipedia for more
PP3V42 G3H

PP3V42_G3H takes power from either the DC in or battery through a three legged SOT dual diode. It creates 3.42V from either source. It is used to power the circuits needed to create the S5 power rail. The SMC and inrush/charging circuits use PP3V42_G3H as does the one-wire circuit. Without this rail you will not get a charger light. Check this first if you have no charger light with an OEM charger. 
==Troubleshooting==
Check for a short to ground on the output side of this power rail after the inductor. If there is a short you can inject voltage to find the component that gets hot.
If there is no short test the input and SHDN pins. The SHDN pin is fed through a resistor from VIN. After that test all the passive components around the buck converter. The voltage divider between output, feedback, and ground is used to keep the output as close to 3.42V as possible. If either resistor is out of spec, the voltage will be off.
If everything looks good, replace the chip.
Category:Mac Category:MacBook
PRAM

Stands for "Parameter Random Access Memory," and is pronounced "P-ram." PRAM is a type of memory found in Macintosh computers that stores system settings. These settings include display settings (like screen resolution and color depth), the time zone setting, speaker volume, and the startup volume choice. The system settings that are stored in the computer's PRAM differ from Mac to Mac, but the purpose of the memory remains the same.
PRAM resetting a Mac is extremely important when processing for resale. The Find My Mac token is stored in PRAM.
To preform a PRAM reset, visit here - PRAM Reset
Power On Pads

MacBook Pro Unibody https://beetstech.com/blog/where-are-macbook-pro-unibody-power-on-pads-located
MacBook Air https://beetstech.com/blog/macbook-air-power-pads
Macbook A1534 
It's hard to get access to SMC_ONOFF_L on these machines. To test keyboard functionality, these test points are useful. 
Power button test point on the keyboard backside, under the black film (No continuity to SMC_ONOFF_L) 
And the power pads are located here on the board:
Category:Mac 
Category:MacBook
Power Supply

==How to start 15" MacBook with lower wattage supply/fake cable and no battery==
1. Device will start in SMC Bypass mode (Hold power button and plug n magsafe cable. release after 5 seconds), device will start with no magsafe light and full fan
2. pull up SMC_BATLOW_L to 3v3_S5 Lineline. Device should immidiately start. On 820-2915 board that would be R5040 pin 1 to pin 3 of Q5040.
==Why its important to have a good power supply==
Even slight overvoltage(~25V) might cause mainboard damage. If you take in the device with cheap Knock/off charger - ALWAYS tell customer to buy a good one. It would also be reasonable to warranty if customer ignores your recommendation. In most burned ISL6259 cases there is a knock-off charger somewhere in customer's backpack. 
Magsafe 1&2: get a dead OEM 85W charger and use its cable to have a reference cable: such cable will work with every Macbook. This is really important if you troubleshoot SMC/ISL6259/Battery. You also need to check it with original working charger after the repair: if you have bad MagSafe Sleep mode, your device wont run from OEM charger but will work on bench! 
Important note: Refer to MacBook Battery compatibility page for the list of boards which wont boot / properlz start with no battery wven on proper charger.
Read more about how OEM MagSafe works and what exactly is hidden in Magsafe connector. 
USB-C Models: you need a 100W power supply to autostart 16" macbook, so thats also must have for your bench.
Recovery Mode

Recovery Mode
This covers the start up mode using Command + R keys. 
Note: Recovery Mode takes longer to boot - this is normal.
Things you can do in Recovery Mode:
*Restore from Time Machine back up
*Reinstall the last macOS that was previously installed
*Go to Apple Support help online
*Use Disk Utility to partition, repair, erase, format drives
*Add or remove an EFI password (must know password if removing)
*Troubleshoot network connection
*Open Terminal from Recovery Partition (reset user password, disable/enable SIP, change date, etc.)
*Select a different startup disk
*See the Installer Log
If you cannot startup in Recovery Mode by this startup combination, the recovery partition may be corrupt or non-existent, keyboard may be faulty, or the Mac was running an older OS (10.6 or older). Try a wired keyboard, Internet Recovery, a different startup disk, or bootable installer.
=== Using Recovery environment to backup folders and data ===
In some cases (for example, you replaced PCH on 16" Macbook Pro and it wont boot untill DFU Restore clears the ME region, target disk mode dows not work too) you can only use recovery mode. 
You can actually backup any folder or even whole partition using Disk utility. Simply mount target drive and unlock source drive, then create an image of folder you need. 
Category:Mac
Reflow & Replace SMC

Remember that your troubleshooting steps should point to this as a potential solution, don't do this without a specific reason. 
Reflow: 
Remove edge bonding and heat at 280 Celsius with flux to burn any crap underneath. If no change, 430 full air flow no nozzle. Give it a light nudge once you can see it moving under the air. 
Replace: 
430 full air, no nozzle. Grab it off once it is moving. Clean the board and remove all the old solder. 
Mount your SMC upside down (ball side up) in a bracket/vice/clamp etc that will hold it still. Clean off the solder and clean with iso. Place your SMC stencil and hold it in place with tape or another method. 
Apply solder paste. I use the back of a spudger to scrape the paste into all the holes. Go over it a few times with the excess paste to make sure the holes are filled. Brush the top clean with a dry cloth or iso pad (not soaked though). Make sure there isn't any excess paste sitting on top of the stencil. 
Be PATIENT. I slowly heat at 385 degrees with airflow of 40-50. Hold it a few inches away to let it heat (I count to 10 or 15), then move it closer by an inch, count again. Keep doing this until you see the paste starting to heat and form balls. Don't get too close or you risk blowing the balls out of their holes. Again, be patient. Once all the balls are melted, inspect closely to ensure they are all similar and uniform. If any "bulge", push the solder down with the tip of your tweezer, and then heat it again until it melts and goes to where it should be. If any look small/low, add the tiniest amount of paste using the tip of your tweezer, and reflow. 
As is it cooling, add a TINY bit of flux which will get between the stencil and the SMC to help with removal. This may not be necessary, but I find it helps. 
Remove your stencil/SMC from your mount. I use a flat blade xacto and slowly wedge it under the edge of the SMC. Wiggle ever so slowly until it breaks free from the stencil. 
Apply a small amount of flux to the board, and cover the whole SMC area. Not too much, or the SMC will "float" and might now stick to the right spot. 
Apply the SMC into place, and again, slowly apply heat (low airflow so it doesn't blow away). You can hold it in it's place with tweezers, just be careful not to be apply pressure. Just keep it from moving out of place. Once it has attached itself in place, you can turn up the airflow to make sure it is properly flowed. I've found you can't go too high with the heat or airflow after a reball as the low melting point of the paste/solder will cause it to blow away, so just be aware.
Replacement Capacitors for Older Macintosh Computers

This page outlines the capacitors that are on the boards of older Macintosh computers and where to locate them. If there are any errors please feel free to correct me.
Macintosh SE/30
Note: SMD Electrolytics can be substituted for Tantalum polymer caps provided they are correctly rated for voltage, can physically fit and due to the contact size/shape differing from the originals care must be taken to ensure that soldering them doesn't contact unwanted nearby vias. The benefits are they won't leak in the future.
10x 16V 47µF Electrolytic SMD eBay, Mouser | Tantalum Farnell
01x 50V 1µF Electrolytic SMD eBay, Mouser | Tantalum Farnell
01x 16V 220µF Electrolytic Through-Hole (Radial) eBay, Mouser | (Axial) eBay(Select 16V 220µF), Mouser
01x 16V 470µF Electrolytic Through-Hole (Radial) eBay, Mouser | (Axial) eBay, Mouser
Macintosh LC
AP1455-03
01x 50V 1µF Electrolytic SMD eBay, Mouser
01x 6.3V 100µF Electrolytic SMD Mouser
08x 16V 10µF Electrolytic SMD Mouser
05x 16V 47µF Electrolytic SMD eBay, Mouser
Macintosh LCII
820-3027-A
05x 16V 47µF Electrolytic SMD eBay, Mouser
01x 6V 100µF Electrolytic SMD Mouser
10x 16V 10µF Electrolytic SMD Mouser
01x 50V 1µF Electrolytic SMD eBay, Mouser 
Macintosh LCIII
820-0650-B
05x 16V 10µF Electrolytic SMD Mouser
01x 6V 100µF Electrolytic SMD Mouser
05x 16V 47µF Electrolytic SMD eBay, Mouser
Resistance to Ground List

I feel it important to state that this is truly Resistance to ground - not Diode readings.
Paul Daniels is adding resistance and voltage to FlexBoardView. Linking to his repo here
==Resistance by Board Number==
===820-2796 2010 11" MacBook Air===
L6995 PP3V42_G3H 160 KΩ
===820-3024 2011 11" MacBook Air===
C7649 PP1V05_S0 51 Ω
===820-00165 2015/17 13" MacBook Air===
C2740 PP0V6_S0_DDRVTT 630 Ω
C7648 PP1V05_S0 217 Ω
C1910 PPVRTC_G3H ~ 7 MΩ
C6100 PP3V3_SUS 54 kΩ
===820-00875 2016 13" MacBook Pro with Function keys===
L2950 VR09V_IND_TBT_X 564 Ω
C2994 PP3V3_TBT_X_F 2.8 KΩ
==CPU Resistance==
===Penryn===
2010 MBA 11" 59 Ω
2010 MBP 13" 23.5 Ω
2010 MBP 13" P8600: 62Ω
===Arrandale===
2010 MBP 15" i5 101 Ω
2010 MBP 15" i7 51 Ω
2010 MBP 15" i5-520M: CPU=15Ω/iGPU=64Ω
2010 MBP 15" i5-540M: CPU=57Ω/iGPU=33Ω, CPU=46Ω/iGPU=59Ω
===Sandy Bridge===
2011 MBP 13" i5 8 Ω
2011 MBP 13" i5-2415M: CPU=17Ω/iGPU=15Ω
2011 MBA 11" I5 23 Ω
2011 MBA 13" i5-2557M: CPU=25Ω/iGPU=20Ω, CPU=29Ω/iGPU=25Ω
2011 MBA 13" i7-2677M: CPU=25Ω/iGPU=23Ω
===Ivy Bridge===
Down to 1.5 Ω
2012 MBP 13" i5-3210M: CPU=2.0Ω/iGPU=1.3Ω
2012 MBP 13" i7-3520M CPU=2.0Ω/iGPU=2.1Ω
2012 MBP 15" i7 4.1 Ω
2012-E2012 MBPr 15" 1.5 Ω
2012 MBA 13" i5 4.3 Ω
2012 MBA 13" i5-3427U: CPU=3.4Ω/iGPU=2.0Ω
===Haswell===
====Haswell-U====
At least 20 Ω
L2013-2014 13" MBP
L2013 MBP 13" i5-4258U: 53Ω, 76Ω, 77Ω
M2014 MBP 13" i5-4278U: 165Ω
2013-2014 MBA i5 120 Ω 
====Haswell-H====
Above 10Ω
L2013-M2014 15" MBP
L2013 15" MBP iGPU i7-4750HQ: 22Ω, 35Ω
M2014 15" MBP iGPU i7-4770HQ: 10Ω, 15Ω
M2014 15" MBP dGPU i7-4870HQ: 15Ω
L2013 15" MBP dGPU i7-4850HQ: 21Ω
===Broadwell===
Around 18 Ω
2015 13" MBP i5 15 Ω
2015 MB
2015-2017 11 MBA i5 23 Ω2015-2017 13 MBA i5 18 Ω
2015-2017 13 MBA i7 23 Ω
===Skylake===
6 Ω, 7 Ω
2016 MBP
2016 MB
===Kaby Lake===
2017 MBP 13" i5 10 Ω
2017 MB 12" m3 16 Ω
===Coffee Lake===
2018-2019 MBP 15" 4.8 Ω
2018-2019 MBP 13"
2019 MBP 16"
===Amber Lake Y===
2018-2019 MBA
Category:Mac 
Category:MacBook
SCSI IDC 50 pin

The original HDD in PowerPC Macintosh (before G3) are SCSI drives with an IDC 50 pin connector. They are often found dead and no replacement are available (or very expensive and not necessarily in a good state).
They can be replaced by SCSI drives with an SCA-2 80 pin connector which are cheaper, faster, quieter, in better state and with higher capacity. Adapters can be found on eBay for a few bucks.
Some of these adapters come with the MTR jumper populated, it has to be removed to allow the drive to start when powering on. Other jumpers can be removed too as usually you don't need the other features and SCSI ID 0 is ok.
In theory it should also work with 68k Macs but due to software limitations only small partitions of 2GB or 4GB can be used under older Mac OS.
There are also some 2.5" drives available that could be used in PowerBooks, provided someone makes the proper adapter.
Category:Mac Category:PowerPC