iPad Repair Tips

==== General ====
* It's good practice to unplug the battery from the iPad before unplugging the LCD, digitizer, and other extremities. These can result in mysterious issues (such as digitizer functioning in a "wonky" fashion, LCD Backlight staying off until reboot, etc.) and there have been reports of more severe happenings online. It's best to just unplug it to be safe.
==== iPad 2 ====
* When removing screens, be extremely careful when using the iSesamo on the entire left edge, and the upper right corner; It's easy to hurt the digitizer and the power/volume button cables when not careful, similar to the wifi antenna.
* Always heat the outer edge of the digitizer when removing or re-seating it, at least when salvaging a good digitizer, or reseating a new one. Even when it doesn't feel like you're putting heavy force onto the glass of the digitizer, the resistance from the adhesive will put additional stress, exponentially increasing the likelihood of breaking it.
==== iPad Mini ====
* Large EMI shield that is directly below the LCD screen is VERY SHARP.Be careful when removing as you very well can slice your finger on the edges of this shield
* When installing a new digitizer, check the solder contacts at the bottom of the digitizer, and make sure the contacts are either taped with fabric tape or kapton tape. If not, cover with a strip(s) of kapton tape. This can often times resolve issues where the power button is non-functional.
* Check to see if digitizer or LCD cables are loose when diagnosing/troubleshooting. With the shield removed it's easy for the two to become disconnected.
* Check to see that the volume/power button cable is loose when diagnosing/troubleshooting. A loose cable can result in mysterious outputs, such as a power button that doesn't work when pressed once, but fully functions when held down, etc.
* Digitizer and LCD connectors are very fragile... Be extra gentle when removing or plugging in either or the ports will break.
* Check the male connectors when installing a digitizer, LCD, or similar snap-in connector. Anomalies in the connectors - such as a bent pin - can result in damaging the female connector end upon install by breaking teeth, etc.
* When trying to solder a new female connector for the digitizer (And the same rule can be stated for the LCD connector, battery, and extremities connectors as well), be extra careful to not use too much force after heating the old, broken port. The pads on these logic boards tear off incredibly easy, which will lead to a much more difficult overall repair, if repairable.
* When soldering a new home button on the digitizers, make sure both the cable for the button assembly, and the cable with the solder points are perfectly aligned. An efficient way to do this is to use the two holes that are present on both cables and align them flush. If you feel as though the cables will move while you're trying to solder, using kapton tape on both sides of the cable (Past the solder points of course) can help keep the cable aligned while you solder them down with fresh solder and flux.
* When installing a new digitizer or replacing the old one, make sure to check the flex cable is not kinked or creased. The cable should bend in, but not be creased. A crease or kink in the flex will most likely result in the digitizer breaking.
==== iPad Air ====
* When removing a good digitizer for repair or testing, work around the touch IC on the bottom right side of the digitizer. Use heat and the iSesamo on the outside from the top, left, and bottom sections. Use guitar picks periodically to keep the screen open. When you get to the right side of the digitizer, use the guitar pick instead of the iSesamo and be very careful about halfway down the right side of the screen, so as to not put pressure on the touch IC. Once you loosen it somewhat, you can try to see if it will pry up, but don't use excessive force to do so. This care is crucial to keep from damaging the touch IC.
==== iPad 2-4 Cellular ====
* When removing the LCD and digitizer DO NOT use a shim on the upper section of the battery terminal!! This will likely tear the ribbon cable connecting the CDMA or GMA card to the logic board.