Directory of Hand Stitches

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This wiki edition of The Directory of Hand Stitches Used in Textile Conservation. is based on the 2nd edition (1995) of this publication. The original work was a project of the Study Group on Threads and Stitching Techniques of The Textile Conservation Group, New York.
It was compiled by Martha Winslow Grimm, and illustrated by Rachel Paar.
Acknowledgements (from the printed version, 2nd edition, 1995)
The Stitch Directory Committee, part of the TCG Study Group on Threads and Stitching Techniques, researched, wrote, reviewed and edited the information contained in this book. The members are: Elizabeth Brown, Julia M. Burke, Margaret (Meg) Geiss-Mooney, Martha Winslow Grimm, Molly Hope, Ada H.(Dusty) Logan, and Audrey M. Spence. Numerous textile conservators and needleworkers have been generous with their suggestions, expertise and time. Those who supplied information and reviewed the text for content are: Mary Ballard, Alice Blohm, Virginia B. Carter, Vicki Cassman, Anne Ennes, Patricia Ewer, Frances K. Faille , Kathy Francis, LaTasha Harris, Bruce Hutchison, Mary Ellen Johnson, Monica Lenci, Sarah Lowengard, Catherine McLean, Dorothy Morrison, Margaret Ordonez, Zoe Annis Perkins, Rebecca Rudolph and Cara Varnell.
The executive board of the Textile Conservation Group has been very supportive of this project. The three chairmen of The TCG Study Group on Threads and Stitching Techniques, Teresa A. Knutson, Susan Anne Mathisen and Julia B. Swetzoff, have helped by supplying leadership, enthusiasm, guidance, and knowledge. 
Wiki version acknowledgements
Digital conversion of the directory was accomplished in 2014 by Jennifer Cruise and Jonathan Hoppe.
Disclaimer
The techniques for executing hand stitches used in textile conservation may differ from stitches in other disciplines of needlework. The condition, type, and decoration of the artifact and its proposed treatment dictate how the stitches are completed. The inclusion of stitches in this directory is not a professional endorsement nor recommendation of their application.
Copyright: . The Textile Wiki pages are a publication of the Textile Specialty Group of the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works. 
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==Introduction==
In 1989 The Textile Conservation Group, Inc., a special interest membership group based in New York City, embarked on the long-term project of compiling an inventory of functional hand stitches currently used in textile conservation. A survey was conducted among the U.S. membership. The Directory of Hand Stitches Used in Textile Conservation is a result of this survey, contributions of members, and a review of literature. The purpose of this stitch directory is to provide a record of hand stitches in use by conservators today as well as their possible applications and a standardization of the terminology. The directory is meant to be a reference for conservators and educators working in the field of textile conservation. The goals are to aid in hand stitch selection, to facilitate communication among colleagues, and to clarify written documentation. This is not a guide or a "how-to" study of stitches and their uses. The application and adaptability of each stitch is the responsibility of the individual conservator, and is part of the much greater process of decision making in the treatment and care of textiles.The "Processes" section included in the beginning of the directory classifies the thirty-nine hand stitches by their application or association in textile conservation. Stitches are listed in alphabetical order, with the most common American term used as the primary name. To facilitate cross-referencing, as many alternative names as possible have been included. In addition to the directions for completing the stitch, there are comments about structural function and application. Diagrams, essential to the comprehension and reproduction of these stitches, are included. It is the hope of the Textile Conservation Group, Inc. that the result of this study will enhance communication among colleagues and improve the clarity of written reports. As a preliminary inventory, there is much more that needs to be done, and this body of work does not represent the experiences of the textile conservation field at large. We hope The Directory of Hand Stitches Used in Textile Conservation will draw attention to the importance of stitching in textile conservation and encourage others to continue this work.
Julia B. Swetzoff
==Directory Organization==
There are three sections to this directory, and their use will depend upon the needs of the reader. The first section is titled Textile Conservation Processes and Appropriate Hand Stitches. It lists basic treatment processes a textile conservator performs and the hand stitches used. A conservator desiring to research methods of handling a stitching task associated with a treatment may read this section for solutions selected by others in the profession. 
The second section, titled Hand Stitches Used in Textile Conservation, is a compilation of hand stitches in use today by the textile conservation community. Each page features one stitch with directions and diagrams on how to complete the stitch, other names for the stitch, related stitches and how the stitch is being used. These pages are also useful as a tool for standardization of stitch terminology and can be used when writing treatment reports.
Finally, a List of References featuring writings about hand stitches and textile conservation is offered as an aid for those who wish to learn more about the subject.
=Textile Conservation Processes and Appropriate Hand Stitches=
==Attaching Linings, Dust Covers, and Backings==
Blind Stitch 
Hemming Stitch 
Overcast Stitch 
Slip Stitch 
Staggered Running Stitch 
Tapestry Strap Stitch 
==Closing Slits==
Blanket Stitch
Buttonhole Stitch 
Figure 8 Stitch 
Invisible Darning Stitch 
Lacing Stitch 
Laid and Couched Stitch 
Overhand Stitch 
Oversewing Stitch 
Reinforcement/Zig Zag Stitch 
Self-Couching Stitch 
Tapestry Overcast Stitch
==Creating Seams==
Back Stitch 
Half Back Stitch 
Running Stitch 
Running/Back Stitch 	
==Finishing and Stabilizing Edges==
Buttonhole Stitch 
Cross Stitch/Over an Edge 
Overcast Stitch 
Reverse Blanket Stitch 
Wrapping Stitch 	
==Finishing and Stabilizing Warp Ends==
Blanket Stitch
Buttonhole Stitch 
Chain Stitch
Cross Stitch/Over an Edge 
Overcast Stitch 
Reverse Blanket Stitch 
 	
==Hemming==
Blind Stitch 
Hemming Stitch 
Herringbone Stitch 
Slip Stitch 
Tapestry Strap Stitch 
 	
==Joining Fabric==
Back Stitch 
Blind Stitch 
Figure 8 Stitch 
Hemming Stitch 
Lacing Stitch 
Overhand Stitch 
Oversewing Stitch 
Running Stitch 
Running/Back Stitch 	
Slip Stitch 	
==Mounting==
Back Stitch 
Half Back Stitch 
Hemming Stitch 
Herringbone Stitch 
Overcast Stitch 
Reinforcement/Zig Zag Stitch 
Running Stitch 
Stab Stitch 
Staggered Running Stitch 
 	
==Reinforcing Holes and Tears==
Back Stitch 
Basic Couching Stitch 
Darning Stitch 
Invisible Darning Stitch 
Laid and Couched Stitch 
Running Stitch 
Self-Couching Stitch 	
==Reinforcing Selvedges==
Blanket Stitch
Buttonhole Stitch 
Overcast Stitch 
Reverse Blanket Stitch 
Wrapping Stitch 	
 	
==Reinforcing Weak Areas==
Basic Couching Stitch 
Reinforcement/Zig Zag Stitch 
Tabby Stitch 	
==Replacing Weft==
Tabby Stitch 
==Rewarping==
Channeling 
==Securing a Damaged Area to a Support Fabric==
Basic Couching Stitch 
Basting Stitch 
Diagonal Basting Stitch 
Herringbone Stitch 
Invisible Darning Stitch 
Laid and Couched Stitch 
Reinforcement/Zig Zag Stitch 
Running Stitch 
==Securing Loose Threads to a Ground Fabric==
Basic Couching Stitch 
Laid and Couched Stitch 
Self-Couching Stitch 	
==Securing Velcro Heading to Reverse, Top Edge of Heavy Textiles==
Diagonal Stitch/Knot over Previous Stitch
Diagonal Stitch/Modified French Knot
Herringbone Stitch/Knot over Previous Stitch 
==Stabilizing Seams==
Back Stitch 
Half Back Stitch 
Running Stitch 
Running/Back Stitch 	
 	
==Stabilizing Weft==
Ladder Stitch 
==Temporary Stitch==
Basting Stitch 
Diagonal Basting Stitch 
Tacking Stitch 
Tailor's Tacks 
=Hand Stitches Used in Textile Conservation=
Antique Stitch, see Figure 8 Stitch, see also Lacing Stitch 
Back Stitch 
Ball Stitch, see also Lacing Stitch 
Barred Witch Stitch, see Herringbone Stitch 
Baseball Stitch, see also Lacing Stitch 
Basic Couching Stitch 
Basting Stitch 
Basting Stitch (Diagonal) 
Blanket Stitch
Blanket Stitch (Reverse) 
Blind Stitch 
Blind hem stitch, see Slip Stitch 
Buttonhole Stitch 
Cat Stitch, see Herringbone Stitch 
Catch Stitch, see Herringbone Stitch 
Chain Stitch
Channeling 
Combination Stitch, see Running/Back Stitch 	
Convent Stitch, see Self-Couching Stitch 
Couching Stitch (Basic) 
Couching Stitch (Laid and Couched) 
Couching Stitch (Self) 
Cross Stitch/Over an Edge 
Crossed Backstitch, see Herringbone Stitch 
Crosswise Basting Stitch, see Diagonal Basting Stitch 
Darning Stitch 
Darning Stitch (Invisible) 
Diagonal Basting Stitch 
Diagonal Stitch/Knot over Previous Stitch
Diagonal Stitch/Modified French Knot
Figure 8 Stitch 
Figure 8 Wrapping Stitch, see Wrapping Stitch 
Half Back Stitch 
Half Cross Stitch, see Diagonal Basting Stitch 
Handworked Buttonhole Stitch, see Buttonhole Stitch 
Hemming Stitch 
Herringbone Stitch 
Herringbone Stitch/Knot over Previous Stitch 
Invisible Stitch, see Blind Stitch 
Invisible Darning Stitch 
Klosterstitch, see Self-Couching Stitch 
Lacing Stitch 
Ladder Stitch 
Laid Stitch, see Laid and Couched Stitch 
Laid and Couched Stitch 
Laid Couching Stitch, see Laid and Couched Stitch 
Loop Stitch, see Blanket Stitch
Open Tabby Mend, see Tabby Stitch 
Overcast Stitch 
Overcast Stitch (Tapestry )
Overhand Stitch 
Oversewing Stitch 
Piercing Stitch, see Stab Stitch
Pine Tree Stitch, see Figure 8 Stitch 
Regular Basting Stitch, see Basting Stitch 
Reinforcement/Zig Zag Stitch 
Reverse Blanket Stitch 
Reverse Half Cross Stitch, see Tacking Stitch 
Reverse Open Buttonhole Stitch, see Reverse Blanket Stitch 
Running Stitch 
Running Stitch (Staggered) 
Running/Back Stitch 
Running/Back Combination Stitch, see Running/Back Stitch 
Running Hem Stitch, see Tapestry Strap Stitch 		
Span Stitch , see Self-Couching Stitch 	
Spannstitch, see Self-Couching Stitch 	
Self-Couching Stitch 	
Simple Couching Stitch, see Basic Couching Stitch 
Slip Stitch 
Slit Stitch, see Tapestry Overcast Stitch
Stab Stitch 
Staggered Running Stitch 
Tabby Stitch 
Tacking Stitch see also Basting Stitch 
Tailor Basting Stitch, see Diagonal Basting Stitch 
Tailor's Tacks 
Tapestry Overcast Stitch
Tapestry Strap Stitch 
Tent Stitch, see Diagonal Basting Stitch 
Tunnel Stitch, see Blind Stitch 
Uneven Back Stitch, see Half Back Stitch 
Vertical Hemming Stitch, see Hemming Stitch 
Walls of Troy Stitch, see Staggered Running Stitch 
Weaving Stitch, see Darning Stitch 
Whip Stitch, see Overcast Stitch , see also Oversewing Stitch
Wrapping Stitch 
Zig Zag Stitch 
=List of References=
100 Embroidery Stitches. 1967. Glasgow, Scotland: Anchor Embroidery Stitches.		
Birrell , V. 1959. The Textile Arts. New York , NY: Harper & Row.
Brown, E., F. Faile, and S. Fishman. Plain Sewing and Embroidery Basic Stitches. Handout distributed at the Second Stitching Symposium of the Textile Conservation Group.
Clabburn, P., and H. Von Rosenstiel. 1976.The Needleworker's Dictionary. New York, N Y: William Morrow and Co.		
Complete Guide to Needlework. 1979. Pleasantville, NY: The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.	
Complete Guide to Sewing. 1978. Pleasantville, NY: The Reader's Digest Association, Inc.
de Dillmont, T. 1972.The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework. Reprint of 19th century DMC book. Philadelphia, PA: Running Press. 
DMC Encyclopedia of Needlework. 1978. Philadelphia, PA: Running Press.
Ennes , A.H. 1990/91. "The Stabilization of Edges and Ends; Gradations of Intervention." The Textile Museum Journal 29-30:34-41.		
Fenyvesi, L. 1990. "Stitches for Conservation. " Presented at the Second Stitching Symposium of the Textile Conservation Group. New York, NY. Photocopied.	
Finch, K., and G. Putnam. 1985. The Care and Preservation of Textiles. London, England: B.T. Batsford Ltd.	
Flury-Lemberg, M. 1988. Textile Conservation and Research. Bern, Switzerland: Schriften der Abegg-Stiftung.	
Gostelow, M. 1982. The Complete Guide to Needlework Techniques and Materials. New Jersey: Chartwell Books, Inc.
Landi, S. 1985.The Textile Conservator's Manual. London, England: Butterworth.
Leene , J. E. , ed. 1972. Textile Conservation. Washington, D.C. : Smithsonian Institution Press.
Morrell , A. 1990.The ATN Guide to Structural Sewing: Terms and Techniques. Manchester, England: Archeological Textile Newsletter. Photocopied.
One Hundred Embroidery Stitches: Book No. 150 . 1964. New York, NY: Coats and Clark's.
Picken, M. B. 1943. Modern Dressmaking Made Easy. New York, NY: Funk and Wagnalls Co.
Proctor, R. N. and J.F. Lew. 1984. Surface Design for Fabric. Seattle, WA: University of Washington Press.
Ryan , M. G. 1979. "The Complete Encyclopedia of Stitchery". Garden City, NY: Doubleday & Co., Inc.
Stitch Guide. A Study of the Stitches on the Embroidered Samplers in the Collection of the Cooper-Hewitt Museum. 1984. New York, NY: Smithsonian Institution Press.
"Stitches Used in Textile Conservation." 1986, Revised 1995. CCI-IIC Notes #13/10. Ottawa, Canada: Canadian Conservation Institute.
Swift, G. 1984. The Larousse Encyclopedia of Embroidery Stitches. New York, NY: Larousse & Co., Inc.
Thomas, M.. 1934. Mary Thomas's Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches. London, England: Hodder and Stoughton.
Vogue Sewing. 1958, 1980, 1982. New York , NY: Harper and Row.
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Category: Textiles