nyuuzyou/wikis huggingface dataset:
Downie Pipes

My name is Stephen Downie and I live with my wife and daughter in Surrey, British Columbia. 
I've been smoking pipes for well over a decade, ever since a roommate at university got me hooked on the feeling of a warm briar in my hand and the taste of quality tobacco. 
I've always enjoyed woodworking and have a natural bent for all things artistic. These things are combined in my love of pipe and tamper making. 
Pipe smoking is a past-time that is calming and thoughtful, my approach to pipe-making attempts to harmonize with these feelings through balance, smooth flowing lines, and curves that conform to the smoker's hand. I enjoy creating pipes that have an organic and natural feel to them. 
Some of my greatest inspirations are from shapes that are found in the natural world. Nature is full of shapes and curves that I find pleasing to the eye as well as being comfortable to hold. 
Pipe-making is a passion for me. It isn't hard to get up in the morning when you enjoy what you do; sleeping and not getting up to sketch new designs is a much greater problem. Every block of briar has a pipe shape that will accent and complement the grain. Finding that shape is one of the many things that makes pipe making an engaging challenge that is new with every block of briar. 
I would like to take this time to also acknowledge some of the pipe makers and smokers around the world who have helped me out with advice and camaraderie. Trever Talbert and Mark Tinsky have both put up with a lot of questions from a rookie pipe-maker and have my thanks and gratitude for answering my questions with politeness and grace. I would also like to recognize all the great people at The Smoker's Forums (as well as pipemakersforum.com - Ed.). There are too many people to thank there for their advice and friendship. I thank you all. 
== Gallery ==
Image:Stephen Downie Pipe01.jpg
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== Contact Information ==
 Website: http://www.downiepipes.com/
 Email: mailto:stephen@downiepipes.com
 Phone: 604-837-6752
Category: Pipe makers by nationality
Category: Canada
Dr. Boston

An export brand of the Berrod-Regad group mainly for the German market (9mm filter pipes). 
Butz-Choquin second.
From Pipes, Artisans and Trademarks, by Jose Manuel Lopés'
In the early 20th century it belonged Delacour factory and was also used by its English equivalent, Delacour Brothers. It was sold to the Berrod-Regad group in 1958, and is well know in Germany among mid to low range pipes. Comoy's also have a line named Boston.
Category: Pipe makers by nationalityCategory: France
Dr. Kernel

Dr. Joseph E. Kernel was an Indianapolis, Indiana optometrist. His offices were located in the Traction Terminal Building in Indianapolis, located at 104 N. Illinois Street in 1951.
Bernard Batty, also from Indianapolis, was granted a Patent, Number 2614568, in May of 1950.https://patents.google.com/patent/US2614568 Batty was born in 1911, and appears to have been the subject of litigation at birth over who his real mother was. His father, also Bernard Batty, appears to have been the director of the William Henry Harrison home and museum in Indianapolis and an executive trustee of the Arthur Jordan Foundation, which owns that home. Tracy Mincer, also from Indianapolis, is famous for, among other pipes, The Doodler. But how these three came together so that Batty earned a 1950 patent for a pipe which looks remarkably like The Doodler, and that patent number ended up on a pipe stamped Dr. Jos. E. Kernel, seems to be unknown. 
== References ==
Category: Pipe makers by nationality
Category: United States
Category:Patent
Dr. Plumb's

The Dr. Plumb's brand name is owned by A. Oppenheimer & Co., Limited, owners of Cadogan Investments, Ltd.. J.B. Rubinovich, GBD's Parisian sales manager, created this brand in 1925. The pipes was produced by the Ruchon & Verguet and also Ropp factories (Saint-Claude, France). In 1962 a Dr. Plumb's pipe sold for between C$3.95 and C$4.95, or $31.72 in 2015 U.S. dollars, and pipes can still be purchased from this brand for a similar price today. 
These pipes have long been advertised as Dr. Plumb's Perfect Pipe, that name coming from an aluminum tube system designed to keep the smoke cool and dry while at the same time permitting the "cooling chamber" to be cleaned by simply twisting the stem. While Dr. Plumb's pipes were long made in France and stamped accordingly, they are now British made.
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John Edward Plumb, son of Leslie Watts Plumb, writes the following in regards to the Dr. Plumb's pipes:
 I am the son of the late Leslie Watts Plumb, FCA. Before World War II, he managed the business affairs of a smoking pipe factory Verguet Freres/ Marechal Ruchon at St Claude in the French Jura Mountains... where his Plumb Family lived in a flat adjacent to the factory premises. 
He lent his name to the Dr Plumb Smoking Pipe & I had always understood that he played a part in its promotion & design of the pipe's unique aluminum cooling filter system. I was not aware of the 1925 contribution made by J.B.Rubinovich, GBD's Parisian Sales Manager... mentioned in your Web-site Article....
For your further interest, I further attach* (plumb-russi 04) a copy of a 01/10/1940 Article in the Magazine called "TOBACCO" featuring... "Dr." Plumb of the Pipes.
Yours truly... JOHN EDWARD PLUMB, FCA CTA [Retired] 
*See the article mention above here: "Dr." Plumb of the Pipes
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Several Catalog pages from a Circa 1950s Oppenheimer Pipes Catalog featured Dr. Plumb's pipes.
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Category: Pipe makers by nationality
Category: Great Britain
Dr. Shotton's

Dr. Shotton's is a system pipe distributed by Foster Products, INC of Cleveland, OH, with another location reported at 257 Fourth Avenue, New York 10, New York. It is designed so that a pipe cleaner can be sent entirely through the pipe by removing a plug in the heal of the bowl. The idea being to make stem removal unnecessary. It has an open slot in the top of the tube where it crosses the bottom of the bowl, which "permits a FULL down draft--even burning--STAYS LIT". The ad further indicates they left the briar unsealed and unvarnished to permit evaporation and allow the tars from the tobacco to color the pipe naturally. 
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Category:Pipe makers by nationality
Category:United States
Dremel

The basis for the following article was written by Tyler Lane for his website, and is used by permission.
I bought my Dremel after making my first kit pipe. After forty hours of carving with files by hand, I decided that I needed to assist the process with a power tool. A Dremel with a sanding drum seemed just the thing. Though it does indeed work, I rarely use my Dremel for shaping stummels. I now go straight from the sanding disc (chucked up in my lathe) to small files for detail work, to finish sanding. The Dremel rarely touches wood these days.
There are three main tasks the Dremel fulfills.
1. Cutting the slit in the button of the stem -- Perhaps the most difficult part of hand cutting a stem is cutting a good slit in the button end of the stem. This slit is key to provide a nice open draw for the pipe, yet it needs to be compact enough that there is enough rubber left for strength. Remember, this area of the pipe is going to be in the smokers mouth, and if we make the slit too tall we will either need a stem that is too thick to be comfortable in the mouth, or have too little rubber left and have a very fragile stem that is likely to be bitten through. I will cover in the stem section how I use the Dremel for cutting the slit into a stem.
2. Cutting a channel in the bottom of the mortise for bent pipes to pass a pipe cleaner -- On deeply bent pipes, it is impossible with some designs to have the draught hole in the middle bottom of the mortise floor. As such, it will not pass a pipe cleaner into the bowl with the stem in place. This is unacceptable in anything more than a basket pipe, and can be remedied with some careful opening of the hole.
3. Signing a pipe -- I have yet to be satisfied with a logo design, and have therefore been hesitant to drop $150 on a stamp for my pipes. I need to just make up my mind on what I want the stamp to be, but in the meantime I continue to sign my pipes with my Dremel. I vow to stop that practice soon though!
As for the tool itself, first of all, I recommend a variable speed model. I do occasionally buff tight nooks, and other do other odd jobs with my Dremel, and speed control is key to doing those things well. As such, I recommend the MultiPro model, with the flex shaft. The flex shaft is key to doing the precision work you will be doing with the tool.
As for accessories, I use the following bits most often: (Go to www.dremel.com and go to the Accessories/Rotary Tool Bits/Carving-Engraving section to find the bit that corresponds to the number indicated below. Unfortunately, the Dremel site is coded in such a way that I cannot figure out how to provide links to the specific pages. All that shows in the address bar, no matter which page you are on, is the URL to the home page.)
 * 105
 * 106
 * 190
 * 191
 * 199
Drill Press

The basis for the following article was written by Tyler Lane for his website, and is used by permission.
The drill press that I have I bought used. As such, I did not spend a lot of time researching drill presses to determine the perfect pipe making drill press for the budget concious. That said, the press I have is decent for when I need it, and that is because of three features:
 1. A long stroke -- the stroke determines the longest hole you can possibly drill on a press. 
 Mine is 3.5" which is about as long as you will find for standard drill presses. This is 
 enough to do a decent sized canadian or hawkbill, but it cuts it close. I definitely prefer a 
 lathe for drilling long hole as the depth of the hole on the lathe is limited by your drill 
 bit and the length of the bed of the lathe.
 2. Adjustable speed -- SLOW is the key word for all the drilling you do with pipe making. The 
 slower the better to make clean smooth cuts that stay true
 3. Adjustable table -- This is probably a standard feature with most presses, but you will need 
 the ability to raise and lower the table to get the most of the stroke of the press.
Another accessory that is useful is a machinist's vise. The vise allows precise adjustments of the briar under the bit to get things lined up exactly as you want them.
For more information, check out the detailed reviews of the best drill press, and the buying guide.
Drilling Vulcanite Rod

The basis for the following article was written by Tyler Lane for his website, and is used by permission.
I use a Taig micro metal lathe for this operation, so my instruction will be specifically for that lathe, but they should be generic enough to be followed on any metal lathe.
1. Chuck the rod securely in the headstock. I recommend a self-centering chuck for this procedure to make things simpler. Personally, I have a self-centering four-jaw chuck.
2. Face off the end of the rod so that you have a flat, square surface to drill into.
3. Hold your preferred tapered drill bit (I use a 9/64" taper) against the rod, and mark the bit so that you can stop the tapered hole about 3/8"-1/2" from the end of rod.
4. Using in the jacobs chuck in the tailstock , bring the tailstock up to the rod until the bit touches the rod.
5. Before securing the tailstock, turn on the lathe at its LOWEST speed. Apply enough pressure to the tailstock to keep the bit in gentle contact with the end of the rod. This will cause the bit to self-center in the middle of the spinning rod.
6. Push the bit into the rod enough to cut a small starting hole, and lock the tailstock into place.
7. SLOWLY drill the hole. Remove the bit often to clear it of debris. Vulcanite burns easily, and a fouled bit will generate a LOT of heat. Again, do not rush this step.
8. Stop drilling when you have reached the mark you made on the rod.
9. Replace the tapered bit with a 1/16" bit of sufficient length to complete the hole through the stem. I have an aircraft extension bit that is about 6" long that I use for this task.
10. Slowly complete the drilling of the stem with the 1/16" bit. If you do use an aircraft extension bit, back it out and clear the bit often as there will be minimal fluting to clear the debris from the hole.
11. Remove the 1/16" bit from the chuck, and wrap a long, thin piece of 400 grit sandpaper around the bit so you can sand the inside of the nearly drilled bit.
12. With the lathe still on its slowest speed, sand the inside of the bit. I like to do this with 400, 600, and 800 grit for a nice smooth finish in the bit. Because you are using the bit that you used for the last 3/8" - 1/2", you will not be able to sand that portion because the bit will be too big to fit in the hole once wrapped with sandpaper. This is not a concern though, because we will be opening that last portion of the bit later anyway.
You now have a drilled rod!
Here is a video of me doing the process I describe above. It is a Widows Media file, and includes me describing the process as I go along. Someday I will re-do this so that the video is a closer view of the tenon, but if you have any suggestions other than that, I would love to hear them. Please post such comments HERE.
Video of DRILLING OF A VULCANITE ROD
Drucquer & Sons Ltd.

From a tobacco catalog associated with Drucquer & Sons Ltd shops in Berkeley and Oakland, California:
"DRUCQUER'S pipe shop was founded by John Druc­quer in London in 1841. At that time he could have had no idea of how his small enterprise would evolve. As the business was tended and knowledgeable smokers in the London of that day became aware of the quality of Drucquer tobaccos, his shop grew to be a renowned establish­ment, second to none. All manner of folk came in to browse, fill their pipes from the dozens of jars and relax in the very special atmosphere of a to­bacconist's shop." 
* We have a PDF copy of the available, courtesy Michael DiCuccio
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Category:Tobacconists
DuPont Explosives promotional pipes

du Pont Explosives pipes were given out as souvenir pipes by the Explosives Department of the du Pont Company between 1912 and 1933. (Source: Debra Hughes, Curator of Collections and Exhibits, Hagley Museum and Library, Wilmington, DE USA.) The original maker is unknown.
The shape is apparently intended to resemble an 18th or early 19th Century gunpowder barrel. Poker and bent shapes are represented. Some pipes may have ferrules. They are stamped with the duPont logo and "REG. US. PAT. OFF. EXPLOSIVES" on one side and "GENUINE FRENCH BRIAR" on the other side. Stems are vulcanite or similar material.
File:Dupont-explosives-pipe.jpg‎|Example du Pont Explosives pipe bowl
File:Gunpowder-keg.jpg|Example gunpowder keg with extra bands to prevent staving
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Please post additional information!
Category: Pipe makers by nationality
Category: United States
Dunhill Bruyere

<translate>
Initially, made from over century-old briar burls, classified by a "B" (denoted highest quality pipe); "DR" (denoted straight-grained) and an "A" (denoted first quality), until early 1915. After that, they became a high-end subset to the Dunhill 'Bruyere'. The DR and B pipes, a limited production, they should be distinguished as hand-cut in London from burls as opposed to the Bruyere line which was generally finished from French turned bowls until 1917, when the Calabrian briar started to be used, but not completely. Only in 1920 Dunhill took the final step in its pipe making operation and began sourcing and cutting all of its own bowls, proudly announcing thereafter that "no French briar
was employed".
Bruyere pipes were usually made using Calabrian briar, a very dense and hardy briar that has a modest grain but does very well with the deep red stain.
"Before the 1950s, there were three possible finishes for Dunhill pipes. The Bruyere was a smooth finish with a deep red stain, obtained through two coats, a brown understain followed by a deep red. The Shell finish was the original sandblast with a near-black stain (though the degree to which it is truly black has varied over the years). Lastly, the Root finish was smooth also but with a light brown finish. Early Dunhill used different briars with different stains, resulting in more distinct and identifiable creations... Over the years, to these traditional styles were added four new finishes: Cumberland, Dress, Chestnut and Amber Root, plus some now-defunct finishes, such as County, Russet and Red Bark."
</translate>
File:dunhill_duke_street.jpg|thumb|right|1918 Bruyere, "Inner Tube" Pat. 5861/12 O, from the Derek Green Collection
File:bruyere.jpg|thumb||right|Dunhill, 1950 Bruyere, smokingpipes.com
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Yang (talk) 10:07, 29 August 2019 (CDT)
Dunhill Bruyere/en

Initially, made from over century-old briar burls, classified by a "B" (denoted highest quality pipe); "DR" (denoted straight-grained) and an "A" (denoted first quality), until early 1915. After that, they became a high-end subset to the Dunhill 'Bruyere'. The DR and B pipes, a limited production, they should be distinguished as hand-cut in London from burls as opposed to the Bruyere line which was generally finished from French turned bowls until 1917, when the Calabrian briar started to be used, but not completely. Only in 1920 Dunhill took the final step in its pipe making operation and began sourcing and cutting all of its own bowls, proudly announcing thereafter that "no French briar
was employed".
Bruyere pipes were usually made using Calabrian briar, a very dense and hardy briar that has a modest grain but does very well with the deep red stain.
"Before the 1950s, there were three possible finishes for Dunhill pipes. The Bruyere was a smooth finish with a deep red stain, obtained through two coats, a brown understain followed by a deep red. The Shell finish was the original sandblast with a near-black stain (though the degree to which it is truly black has varied over the years). Lastly, the Root finish was smooth also but with a light brown finish. Early Dunhill used different briars with different stains, resulting in more distinct and identifiable creations... Over the years, to these traditional styles were added four new finishes: Cumberland, Dress, Chestnut and Amber Root, plus some now-defunct finishes, such as County, Russet and Red Bark."
File:dunhill_duke_street.jpg|thumb|right|1918 Bruyere, "Inner Tube" Pat. 5861/12 O, from the Derek Green Collection
File:bruyere.jpg|thumb||right|Dunhill, 1950 Bruyere, smokingpipes.com
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Yang (talk) 10:07, 29 August 2019 (CDT)
Dunhill Bruyere/fr

A l'origine elles étaient faites à partir de broussins de bruyère centenaire, classifiées avec un "B" (pour les pipes de la plus haute qualité) "DR" (pour les grains droits) et "A" (pour la première qualité) jusqu'en 1915. Après cela, elles devinrent la partie haut de gamme de la Dunhill "Bruyere". Les pipes DR et B, de production limitée, doivent être mises à part car elles étaient taillées à la main à Londres à partir de plateaux, à l'inverse de la gamme Bruyere, qui était généralement finie à partir de têtes pré tournées en France jusqu'en 1917, où on commença à utiliser de la bruyère calabraise, mais pas uniquement. C’est seulement en 1920 que Dunhill fit des pipes de bout en bout et commença à acquérir et tailler ses propres têtes, annonçant fièrement ensuite « qu’aucune bruyère française n’était utilisée ».
Les Bruyere étaient faites ordinairement de bruyère calabraise, une bruyère très dense et dure d’un grain médiocre mais qui rendait très bien avec la teinture rouge foncé.
"Avant les années 50, il existait trois finitions possibles pour les pipes Dunhill. La finition « Bruyere » était lisse et d’un rouge profond, obtenu par deux teintures successives, un fond brun suivi d’un rouge profond. La finition Shell était celle des sablées d’origine avec une teinture proche du noir (dont le degré de profondeur a varié au cours des années). Enfin, la finition Root était également lisse, mais de couleur marron clair. Très tôt Dunhill utilisa des bruyères différentes et des teintures différentes, avec comme résultat des créations plus spécifiques et identifiables. Au fil des années, quatre nouvelles finitions furent ajoutées aux styles traditionnels : Cumberland, Dress, Chestnut et Amber Root, ainsi que quelques finitions abandonnées aujourd’hui, telles que County, Russet et RedBark."
File:dunhill_duke_street.jpg|thumb|right|1918 Bruyere, "Inner Tube" Pat. 5861/12 O, from the Derek Green Collection
File:bruyere.jpg|thumb||right|Dunhill, 1950 Bruyere, smokingpipes.com
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Yang (talk) 10:07, 29 August 2019 (CDT)
Dunhill Carved Heads

Written by John C. Loring
Contributed by Yang Forcióri
Dunhill Carved Heads - A List	Dunhill Carved Heads - A List	Dunhill Carved Heads - A List	Dunhill Carved Heads - A List	Dunhill Carved Heads - A List	Dunhill Carved Heads - A List
FROM THE COLLECTIONS OF
Dunhill Archives (DA)
Franco Bolognesi (FB) 
Graziano Ros (GR) (Renato Castellani)
Antoni Pascual (AP)
John C Loring (JCL)
John Herring (JH)	 	 	 	 	
DA - 1928 OD (Bruyère). 	JLC - 1937 Root 	JLC - 1937 (Bruyère).
JLC - 1939 OD (Bruyère).	JLC - 1952 (Bruyère). 	JLC - 1952 (Buryère).
eBay - 1954 (Bruyère). 	JLC - 1957 C/H (Root).	JLC - 1957 C/H (Root).
GR - 1978 Root Briar. 	GR - 1978 Root Briar. 	GR - 1978 Root Briar.
JH - 1961 H/C (root). 	FB - 1972 H/C (root). 	AP - 1978 Root Briar.
JH - 1979 Root Briar 	JB - 1980 Root Briar 	
*In “Issue 1 / 2000” “Fellowship of the White Spot” Dunhill advised that its Archives had just acquired a Bruyere ‘Cavalier’ (identical to the 1952 pipe above) stating “The museum has a number of hand carved pipes in Root Briar but this their first in Bruyere”.
 
*It appears that prior to the mid 1950s carved heads were Bruyeres but thereafter Roots.
Back to Loring's articles here
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Yang (talk) 10:43, 14 August 2019 (CDT)
Category:Dunhill
Dunhill Catalog 1951

Dunhill Catalog 1951 (printed in the UK).
The catalog includes lighters, accessories, pouches, smokers furniture, tobaccos, cigars and cigar cabinets (Dunhill Cigars), cigarette holders and even matches.
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Category: Dunhill