Mirror making

=== Glass bonding ===
Akfix 705 , uses a resin and activator for bonding glass. https://www.do-it.co.za/products/akfix-705-super-fast-curing-extra-strong-bonding-adhesive-glue
 
http://www.akfix.com/fastadhesive/images/upload/705_Universal_Fast_Activator_Glue-TDS-ENG.pdf
==Section heading==
http://www.nielsensenterprises.com/mirrors.htm
 
Instructions for a portable mirror on a frame, or on a wall, floor to ceiling type. Getting the film off the roll and cut to the proper length without fingerprints or creases is a real challenge. This alone is probably the first thing everyone who attempts it needs to improve the steps they take. Did you have any one that was helping you, and do you have a second person who can hold it or assist you for this first time? Let me make some brief suggestions on my experiences.(1) don't take the mirror sheeting out until last.(2) first place the top two adjusters where they will be in the proper location to attach to the corners of the film both top left and right so they need to be spaced about 2 inches wider apart then the film is wide. So if you are using 56 inch wide film the adjusters should work if spaced at 58 inches, and this is the distance that the eye screws are apart. Put them in at 58 inches apart, and 1 inch down from the top of the wall so there is room for the adjuster threads if they need to be adjusted fully to the tightest position. Then attach the rest of the clip that actually bites the corner of the film. I've found that it sometimes it will slip and the film needs to be secure at this spot so I predrilled a small hole that when I apply a small screw through this hole it is secured. I also like the idea of using something to reinforce the corners, make them thicker. Perhaps some clear contact paper, or more layers of the mirrorsheeting, duct tape, ( whatever you want to use) just on the corner area where the clip will bite the mirror sheeting. This will bond to the corners and so when you apply tension there should be only a minimum amount of tension distortion if any, and it will only be in the corners and won’t be a distraction. Now you might want to or need to snipe the corners (cut a small amount of the corner at a 45 degree angle this will probably be around 3 inches from the top down and about 3 inches over from the side. You can use scissors for this cut, but will want to use a razor blade or box cutter for the long cuts. DO THIS AFTER REINFORCING THE CORNERS BUT BEFORE ATTACHING TO THE CLIPS. Do the top two first by only unrolling the minimum amount of film. Wear food prep gloves if you need to so you don't leave fingerprints. Also you can use a large book or whatever to press the piece that is going to reinforce each corner. Bonding as much surface area without creating any ripples or bumps. I think if you have the roll of film on a blanket or something soft so nothing will scratch it, the softer the better. You should position it on the floor under the top adjusters with some one working with you. Each one of you will lift the two top corners that have already been reinforced and lift them up to the adjusters. Attach the corners to the tarp clips, sometimes I use a piece of tape to hold it to the wall for a moment until I can get the top two tensioners clipped. I like to do this at the same time as the other top corner so it is pretty much a two man job. When two people are doing this pull some tension going apart from each other so the film is tight. Thus less tension will be needed with the adjuster wing nuts. Leave it so the adjusters have their full adjustability still left so further adjusting can be done later if needed. It should only need a little more tension and you will do that with the wing nuts after you have attached the bottom corners. Now is a good time to run that small screw through the jaws of the clip so it can't come out until you remove the screws. (I like to run a small pilot hole first and I like to go at a slight angle away from the center this gives me more thread depth and I don't have a sharp end of a screw sticking out the back). So with this procedure you don't need any duct tape to help secure the corners. Then I reinforce the bottom corners with another couple pieces of film and double backed tape, or contact paper, leaving no prints, snipe the corners slightly, figure out where the bottom adjusters are best placed, and run the eyelets in, then the screw and clip. While its loose,(unadjusted)attach the two bottom corners into the jaws put as much tension as you can by hand first, then adding more with the wing nuts. Before the final tension with the wing nuts run in the small screws through the jaws so it can't come out until they are removed. It will not take much tension, try to go with the least amount needed, however it is normal that the tension will fluctuate depending on the temperature, cold will tighten it, and warm will loosen it slightly. You may need to add tension to the sides at various places, pulling at different angles to get the tension even on the mirror, or to pull out distortion. I have also been working on wrapping the sheeting around a dowel on the top and bottom to provide even tension.
=== links ===
Metal_casting for epoxy glue. 
Reflective Material 
Category:Solar reflective material
Category:Mirror making
Category:Bonding glue
Category:Glass bonding
Category:Energy