Clothing (AEG)

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==Introduction==
Clothing for the fantasy adventurer varies drastically between character classes, among social classes, from one city or province to the next, and from campaign to campaign. The types of apparel presented here are the most commonly worn items of the medieval period.
Many variations exist in each article of clothing. Fabrics, fasteners, embellishments, and the quality of craftsmanship can all create wide variations in style, comfort, and durability. For example, a doublet might be made of silk, linen, or woolen cloth, depending upon the skill or location of the tailor. This must be taken into account when using the prices presented here. The price ranges are intended to be guidelines only. Prices should be adjusted to suit the occasion within the adventure, taking into account the available materials and workmanship and the needs of the character.
==General Styles and Trends==
===Peasant Clothing===
The peasant or poor beginning adventurer generally has few resources and wears whatever is available and functional. Such individuals rarely bother with fashion. Keeping warm is usually the first priority. Therefore, peasants tend to wear as many layers as possible.
The most typical, basic, and fundamental peasant garment is the chemise, which is a loose shirt that covers the body from the neck to the thigh or mid-calf. A chemise may have long or short sleeves or may be sleeveless.
The next layers of clothing add two garments to the basic costume, a cote and surcote. These two articles of clothing are worn over the chemise, with the surcote over the cote. These items may vary in the extreme, ranging from a style resembling a knee-length tunic to variations on a simple or hooded cloak.
===Academical Dress===
Early universities are often associated with the church, so many of the educated people, especially teachers, are of a Holy Order. Therefore, priestly and academic dress are practically identical.
The earliest medieval Ecclesiastical dress is the same as the everyday clothing of the average person. This consists of many loose, long tunics (down to the ankles), a hood with shoulder cape, hose, and shoes. A round hat with a tab or nub on the top may also be worn.
While secular styles change, the dress of priests and academics tends to remain the same. This stagnant style has the effect of distinguishing the academic community from other members of the equivalent class level. Many priests wear similar types of clothing and can therefore be immediately identified as either an educated person or a member of a priestly society.
===Sumptuary Laws===
The Sumptuary Laws, historically passed from 1300 to 1700 A.D., were designed to restrict the import of foreign goods, and, more importantly, to maintain a social class structure by permitting only members of a certain class level and position to wear specific garments, fabrics and styles. For example, at one time, the most important indication of one's status within the upper class was the type of fur that lined the edges of garments.
Furs permitted only to the aristocracy included marten, vair, and ermine. In descending social importance order, other furs were otter, fox, beaver, lamb, goat, and wolf. Any commoner wearing restricted materials was subject to harsh punishment.
Another example of a Sumptuary Law is the reservation of the color purple for persons of royalty. Specific purple dyes are made available only to the tailors of the aristocracy.
At the DM's option, sumptuary laws might be created for certain cities, provinces, or countries. Therefore, specific materials may be hard for the adventurer to find for sale in
the open market. Such laws will undoubtedly add flavor and color to role-playing and may provide the basis for unusual adventures.
Adventurers traveling from one kingdom to another could easily and unknowingly offend the local aristocracy by wearing a forbidden color or material. Common punishments include a specified term of hard labor, a whipping, or imprisonment. The severity of the punishment varies widely, depending on the kingdom and other factors.
==Materials Used in Medieval Clothing==
===Brocaded Material===
A rich fabric, often silk, woven with raised designs, usually with gold or silver thread. Highly sought by the upper classes.
===Brocatelle===
An imitation of brocaded material executed with a combination of colored yarns. This material is used by members of the lower class to emulate genuine brocaded material.
===Camlet, camelot===
This refers to a fabric that is rumored to be composed, in part, from an exotic animal's coat, namely camel hair. It actually refers to an elegant fabric that is a mixture of silk or velvet and some camel hair. Used only by the upper classes.
===Fur===
Fur is the dressed pelt of various animals, used in the making of garments. It is used as the predominant material of some garments, while used only as trimming and decoration in others.
Many outer garments that are designed specifically for warmth are made of fur, and may line the inside or the outside of such a garment. Peasant cloaks and other fur-lined garments are usually composed of sheepskin, wolfskin, or other smaller mammals. Other furs used primarily by the lower classes include rabbit and common squirrel. The poorer people tend to stitch pieces of smaller animal furs together to provide protection from the cold.
Some furs are restricted and are allowed to be worn only by the upper class. Furs reserved for the aristocracy included sable, ermine, and vair. Especially prized by royalty is the darker skinned sable and black-tipped white ermine. A vair is a highly sought species of squirrel.
An adventurer could make a good deal of money selling furs if a good furrier and a willing buyer of the furs were discovered. Such entrepreneurs should remember that some furs are not only restricted for wearing, but merely owning the animal's hide may be illegal.
===Leather===
Leather may be created from the hide or skin of any animal, bird, or reptile. The skin is tanned or treated to preserve it. Leather is used in the creation of many objects of clothing and armor. The major advantage of leather is that it provides adequate protection while remaining flexible and supple, for quiet and complex maneuvering.
==Articles of Clothing==
===Apron===
Aprons are worn for a variety of reasons. The most common uses are to protect clothing and the wearer of the apron. This can range from a simple cloth apron worn while preparing a meal to the wearing of a leather apron by a blacksmith. Such aprons are made of thick leather and are intended to protect the wearer from flying sparks and chips of metal.
Cost: Cloth 5-8 sp, Leather 8-12 gp
==Bag, Pouch, Almoner, Gipser==
These pouches are made from a variety of fabrics including leather, silk, wool, or linen and come in a variety of sizes. A special type of pouch is called the almoner. It is worn by members of the upper class and is used especially for holding money to be given as alms, hence the name.
All such items are usually attached at the belt or girdle. The pouch might be in plain sight, or, often in populated areas, it might be belted to the undertunic so the wandering eyes of thieves wouldn't see it.
Cost: 4-8 cp
===Baladrana===
This is a full, wide cloak with a hood used by travelers to protect against the rain. Cost: 6-9 sp
==Baldric, Bandoleer==
Usually made of leather (or silk for those who can afford it), this article of clothing is slung around the body from one shoulder to the opposite hip and is used to carry a dagger, pouch, bugle, or sword. Some baldrics are decorated with bells or tassels along the bottom edge. Baldrics are used both for decoration by the lords and ladies of the aristocracy, and for practical purposes by adventurers and government officials. Women of the upper class may wear silk baldrics with gold bells for ornamentation.
Decorative baldrics always have tassels, bells, or other adornments and are made of fashionable materials such as silk or brocade. Functional baldrics, in contrast, are composed only of leather and a buckle, for ease of use and practicality.
Cost: Ornamental 25-50 gp, Leather 7-10 gp
===Band===
Bands are variations of collars that include the ruff that is favored by royalty. Some bands simply fold over the outer shirt and are called a falling band, while others are designed to stand up, and are appropriately called a standing band. The ruff is reserved for formal occasions, while a falling band might be used for daily wear by an official. Most peasants and adventurers believe the wearing of these bands to be snobbish and a blatant attempt to emulate the aristocracy.
Cost: 1-4 sp
===Boots===
Boots are an important part of the wardrobe for traveling and outdoor work and adventuring. They are vital for protection against cold and wet conditions as well as hot and rocky terrains. Many peasants need to wear boots indoors as well, as their living conditions preclude much comfort or heat.
Boots may be found in many stages of design. One of the most popular is the pointed toe variety. The extended toe is especially popular among performers and jugglers, although thieves would do well to avoid them. The pointed toe tends to get in the way while climbing and running.
Another common and functional boot is the leather, mid-calf boot with roll-tops, laced up the side. A variation on the mid-calfboot is the knee-high boots, worn by peasants and called cockers.
Elegant designs reign at court. Such boots might be made of soft leather and even silk, embroidered or inlaid with gems. These are more for show than any practical purpose.
See Shoes for more information about footwear. Cost: 2-8 gp
===Boot Hose===
These hose are cloth stockings worn inside the boot to protect the silk stocking underneath. They are not visible outside the boot and are generally used only by the upper class.
Cost: 1-5 cp
===Braies===
Braies are shapeless trousers held up by a drawstring at the waist, worn by men. They are usually kneelength or longer, with the bottoms either being tucked into stockings or bound with leg wrappings. Braies form the basic daily legwear for the commoner.
Cost: 6-10 sp
===Breeches===
This outergarment is worn by males. Breeches cover the hips and legs down to the knees. This garment has many different styles, from full, puffed designs made from expensive material to tights made with common cloth, similar to the braie.
Cost: 2-5 gp
===Buckle===
A seemingly inconspicuous piece of a person's clothing, buckles actually hold great significance. The buckle is one of the items that denotes wealth and status within society. Materials used to create buckles include silver, gold, iron, steel, copper, and even ceramic. Along with the basic form of the buckle, these items might be engraved, inset with jewels, or otherwise adorned.
Cost: Common 1-4 gp, Ornamental 10-20 gp
===Cannons===
Cannons are tube-like breeches that fit snugly over a man's thighs, down to his knees.
This article of clothing is usually embroidered in colored silk, gold, or silver thread. Cannons are worn chiefly by the upper classes.
Cost: 8-12 gp
===Caps===
Many types of caps exist, but the most useful type for adventurers is a fur cap necessary in cold climates. High quality versions of this cap may have ear-coverings attached.
Generally, caps fit closely on the head and are usually brimless. Cost: 1-4 sp
===Cassock===
A cassock is a long coat or cloak worn outdoors. It is used chiefly by soldiers and hunters. It is worn unbelted, and buttons down the front. This garment is used, especially by hunters, for extra warmth while out in the cold. The soldier's version also serves as an identifying uniform.
Cost: 6-10 gp
===Caul===
These are netted caps worn by women, made of silk and wool with various designs. For practicality, a caul is used by women to keep long hair out of the way. For decoration, a more elaborate caul is used during formal functions and gatherings.
Cost: 3-7 gp
===Chainse, Chemise===
This is a white linen undertunic worn under the bilaud, the overtunic. The sleeves of the chainse are fitted at the wrists and are visible beneath the overtunic. The neckline is a simple roundcut with a short slit. This is the most common garment for the peasant. Men of higher classes wear other outer coverings over the chemise.
Cost: 1-6 gp
===Cloak, Mantle===
The cloak can be made in every possible shape with just about every type of fabric. The most common forms are a circular piece of fabric with a hole in the center for the head, and fabric draped from neck, connected by a chain, brooch, cord, or pins.
A common double use of the cloak is as a blanket in the wilderness. Outdoor cloaks are large and made of durable, thick fabric to keep the adventurer warm during those cold nights under the stars.
Cost: 2-8 sp
===Coif===
Coifs are white linen caps worn by both sexes. They fit closely on the head and are tied under the chin. The coif is used as a sleeping cap and as an underlayer beneath another hat.
Cost: 1-6 gp
===Doublet===
This is a shirt, usually fastened up the front with buttons, and sometimes having a short, skirt-like section or peplum. There are many style variations of doublets.
Cost: 1-6 sp
===Drawers===
Drawers are an undergarment for the body and legs, usually made of white linen. Drawers are worn under other trousers to provide additional warmth.
Cost: 4-8 sp
===Ferronniere===
This item of jewelry is a thin chain worn around the forehead with a small jewel set in the center. The ferroniere is worn exclusively by ladies of the upper class. The wearing of a ferronniere is considered to be an elegant touch within the aristocracy. An adventurer hoping to impress someone of high station might benefit from wearing a tasteful ferronniere.
Cost: 50-100 gp
===Fitchet===
Not an item of clothing but a feature on a garment, a fitchet is a vertical opening at the hip of a gown or surcoat, used to reach the belt and pouch concealed within. This is convenient for hiding valuables in a pouch under many layer of outer garments, making it difficult for a thief to filch the bag.
===Gamash===
These long leggings are worn outside other leg garments to protect the wearer from cold and wet weather. They are made of cloth and are buttoned down the outside of the leg. Cost: 3-8 sp
===Garnache===
This outer garment covers the wearer from the neck down to the ankles. It has wide, elbow-length sleeves cut as part of the garment, like a cape. This allows the wearer to hide bulky items, such as weapons or pouches, under the garnache without attracting attention.
Thieves and fighters especially favor this garment for its excellent ability to conceal objects and allow the wearer full, unhindered movement.
Cost: 5-10 sp
===Girdle===
The girdle, in its usage as it applies to the medieval period, is a belt for the hips or waist. It is worn by both men and women. The girdle is made of metal, leather, cord, or fabric and often has one or two ends hanging loosely. Objects may be hung from the girdle to add embellishment to the overall outfit.
Cost: 1-6 gp
===Gloves===
Gloves come in many different types and styles. The most common type is a leather glove worn to protect the wearer from cold weather and from injury. A heavier leather gauntleted glove is used for falconry and hawking, to provide a perch for the bird and to protect the falconer.
Another functional glove is one designed for archery. Designed to be worn with a normal pair of gloves, the archery glove has two or three reinforced leather fingerstalls which are buttoned across the wrist to provide protection when firing arrows.
Decorative gloves are also worn by men of the noble class. These gloves are made of soft leather, suede, or kid and are adorned with embroidery, jewels, and fringes.
In general, gloves are worn mainly by the upper class. Peasants make do with either cloth mittens or by wrapping their hands in the extra long sleeves of their shirts.
Many customs have been built around gloves. Knights wear them as favors in their helmets during tournaments. They may be used as pledges and can be tossed down as a challenge.
Cost: Leather 1-3 gp, Archer 3-8 gp, Ornate 10-20 gp
===Gorget===
The gorget is a collarlike article of clothing for the neck, full and broad in front. This originally referred to a piece of armor that protected the neck, but it also applies to the article of clothing men and women of the upper class wear around the neck.
Cost: 1-3 gp
===Hoods===
Hoods are used to keep the head dry and warm in inclement weather. Hoods were originally a simple head covering, but evolved into more elaborate designs such as a hood with a small cape attached. See liripipe for a specific version of a popular hood.
Cost: 1-6 sp
===Hose===
Hose are a common covering for the legs. The original design was as roughly-fitting trousers; they evolved into a tighter-fitting garment. The material used to make hose can range from homespun cloth for peasants to velvet and silk for the wealthy. This article of clothing is worn instead of drawers. The main difference is that hose have a tighter fit than drawers. Both garments serve the same function, keeping the wearer's legs warm.
Cost: 1-3 sp
===Liripipe===
This is a hood with a long peak that can reach a length of 2 to 6 feet. The length of the peak varies with the fashion of the day. Jokers, jugglers and other performers especially favor the liripipe.
Cost: 5-10 sp
===Pantaloons===
These are various forms of loose coverings for the legs, reaching from the waist to the calves. Pantaloons are tight fitting at the waist and calves, emphasizing the owner's stockings and footwear. They are worn primarily by the upper class while indoors, such as in court.
Cost: 1-6 sp
===Ruff===
This tight, ruffled collar is worn encircling the entire neck. The ruff is highly admired within the upper class and is used almost exclusively by aristocracy. Although held in disdain by the lower class and most adventurers, the ruff is an excellent piece of clothing for a thief to own, especially one who enjoys disguises. Wearing an authentic ruff in conjunction with other appropriate upper class clothing will almost always guarantee entrance to aristocratic functions with little or no fuss over invitations.
Cost: 8-12 gp
===Shirt===
Any undergarment covering the top half of the body may be considered a shirt. This is a basic piece of clothing worn next to the skin.
Cost: 1-3 sp
===Shoes===
Peasants and poor adventurers often wear a simple piece of rawhide as footwear, often with the fur still on it. A leather thong is threaded through the top of the piece of leather and tied at the top in order to hold the leather in place.
Wealthier people wear a basic leather shoe, constructed with a pointed toe. The length of the toe varies according to the individual shoemaker. Some shoe points are so long that they must be chained up and fastened at the knee. This type of shoe would be a hindrance to an adventurer, but might be worn in a city.
Cost: Rawhide 1-3 sp, Leather shoe 8-12 sp
===Slop===
This term describes many loose fitting articles of clothing such as cloaks, mantles, gowns, or baggy breeches. The term slop indicates a particularly cheap, ready-made garment; therefore the low cost.
Cost: 5-8 cp
===Surcoat, Surcote===
A surcote is a loose-fitting garment worn over a cote or tunic. There are many styles of surcotes, some with sleeves, hoods, capes, or any combination thereof. The surcoat is used primarily as another layer for warmth and is worn by the middle class.
Cost: 5-10 sp
===Tabard===
A tabard is a loose-fitting, rectangular piece of cloth that hangs back and front over the tunic. It was originally used to cover armor from the sun's rays, keeping the wearer cooler, but has developed into clothing adopted by non-armored men and women. A person's symbol, colors, coat of arms, or other identifying marks are commonly placed on this garment.
Cost: 4-8 sp
===Tunic===
This body garment is slipped over the head and may be styled with or without sleeves. It may be girded at the waist. This garment can be knee- or ankle-length and is sometimes called a cote.
Cost: 5-10 sp