The Gray Waste (PWH)

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If any plane defines the nature of true evil, this is it. The three layers—or "glooms"—of the Waste are permeated with an apathetic, uncaring malevolence that crushes the spirit. Color leaches out of everything, leaving a dull gray wash. The petitioners here suffer without hope, knowing only quiet despair and eternal loss. Even visitors feel the plane slowly sapping their will and draining their memories. 
Ironically, this is one of the easiest planes to reach, given that three of the great paths—Yggdrasil, Mount Olympus, and the River Styx—all give access to the plane.
The Gray Waste, in particular the first layer of Oinos, is a plane ravaged by war. For reasons too many and too confusing to explain here, this is the central battlefield of the Blood War. Fiends, their warrior-slaves, trained beasts, and hired mercenaries gather here to wage horrific battles on an epic scale. These battles despoil the already-bleak terrain, giving even the most addle-coved berk a clue as to why it's called the Gray Waste.
Travelers here find larvae, night hags, hordlings, diakka, nightmares, yugoloths (as well as other fiends), and even more monsters and threats. The night hags seem to be the high-ups over the larvae (which they gather and sell), hordlings, diakka, and nightmares (which they dominate). Moreover, the Waste is full of disease and infestation.
Khin-Oin, the Wasting Tower, is a huge fortress built eons ago by the yugoloths. It looks like a spinal column miles high, and the chant is that's exactly what it is. Some even say that it's the backbone of a power slain by the yugoloths. While the Wasting Tower is open to travelers seeking knowledge, it's not a recommended stop; the yugoloths treat visitors as lab animals at best, and at worst- well, suffice to say it's just safer to avoid Khin-Oin altogether.
Instead, look for a tiny town on the second layer called Death of Innocence. It may be one of the few bastions against the utter loss of hopelessness. Hurry, though, 'cause the chant is that a power called Hel is sending trolls to attack the place she doesn't want such a refuge to exist.
Tarsheva Recommends: In Death of Innocence, an elderly woman creates cloaks that ward off the will-draining effects of the plane. They are extremely expensive, however, and the woman is said to be completely barmy.