Query: Cosmetic formulation

title: A linear viscoelastic model to understand skin mechanical behaviour and for cosmetic formulation design
abstract: Skin is arguably one of the most important organs that plays an active role in our everyday biological functions after brain. Owing to the wide range of applications in medicine, cosmetics industry and more recently robotics, skin research has gained tremendous attention with respect to its mechanical behaviour. Various macro modelling approaches are available for modelling skin's mechanical behaviour. The objective of this paper is to study skin's mechanical property change with age and demonstrate anti ageing effects of cosmetic formulations from skin mechanical property change perspective.

title: Application of design of experiments in the development of cosmetic formulation based on natural ingredients
abstract: Development of cosmetic formulations based on natural ingredients presents a challenge in order to instability and sensory limitations of raw ingredients. Organogel which is a cold emulsifier and offers refined sensory properties, physical chemical characteristics and stability could be solved this limitation. The aim of this study is to develop cosmetic formulations by cold process containing natural ingredients and assess through design of experiment (DOE) the influencing factors on the physical mechanical and sensory properties of these formulations. Physico mechanical and sensory properties of cosmetic formulations containing natural ingredients obtained by cold process were evaluated. The DOE was performed for the texture analyses. In addition, the influence of natural actives substances in the developed formulations was assessed. The different concentrations of polymers, organogel and active substances influenced the texture profile of the formulations, being the concentration of organogel the most influential factor. The formulation containing sunflower oil, a polymer from a natural source and the highest concentration of organogel influenced the firmness, consistency, cohesiveness and viscosity. The work of shear decreased in the formulation added of the polymer and increased when the formulation was supplemented with active substances. The sensory analysis showed that the formulation based on 5% of organogel, sunflower oil and polymer it was preference for the selected formulation. In conclusion, the application of DOE for the rational development of cosmetic formulations based on natural ingredients led to formulations with physico mechanical and sensory properties suitable for the application on the skin.

title: Cosmetic Formulation

title: Cosmetic Formulation Based on an Acai Extract
abstract: Acai berry extract is known for its high content in polyphenols and thus is a promising ingredient for cosmetic antiaging formulations; (2) Methods: In this study, the acai extract was firstly evaluated for its total phenol content (Folin Ciocalteau essay) and antioxidant activity (radical scavenging activity DPPH; radical cation scavenging capacity ABTS; ferric reducing antioxidant capacity FRAP) Next, the acai extract was included in an O/W formulation and again was evaluated for its polyphenol content and antioxidant capacity. The formulation was tested for general characteristics, physicochemical properties and microbial stability. The proliferative effect on human immortalized fibroblasts was evaluated by the MTT essay, while TAC assay served to confirm that fibroblasts are protected from UV irradiation. The irritant potential was verified on 20 volunteers. The study concluded with the assessment of the sensorial characteristics of the cosmetic formulation;  The pure acai extract exhibited high polyphenol content and antioxidant activity, and these characteristics were preserved in the O/W formulation as well. The O/W cosmetic formulation proved to be stable under accelerated and normal conditions, and the preservatives were successful in challenging the resistance against microbial contamination. The mean irritant potential was zero in all volunteers, and the cosmetic formulation showed a good sensorial profile; (4)  Acai extract is an interesting ingredient for cosmetic antiaging formulations.

title: Cellulose Nanocrystal ZnO Nanohybrids for Controlling Photocatalytic Activity and UV Protection in Cosmetic Formulation
abstract: A high performance semiconductor zinc oxide (ZnO) on melamine formaldehyde coated cellulose nanocrystals (MFCNCs) was synthesized and evaluated for its application in smart cosmetics. These ZnO@MFCNC hybrid nanostructures were evaluated for their in vitro sun protection factor performance and photocatalytic activity under simulated UV and solar radiation. The photodegradation kinetics of a model pigment (methylene blue) was fitted to the Langmuir Hinshelwood model. A 4 fold increase in the photocatalytic activity of ZnO@MFCNCs was observed when compared to pure ZnO. This is associated with (i) increased specific surface area provided by the MFCNC template, (ii) confined surface energy and controlled growth of ZnO nanoparticles, and (iii) entrapment of photoinduced charge carriers in the pores of the core shell MFCNC rod, followed by fast promotion of interfacial e charge transfer to the surface of the catalyst. The present study demonstrates how an increase in photocatalytic activity can be engineered without the introduction of structural defects or band gap tailoring of the semiconductor. The aqueous based ZnO@MFCNC hybrid system displayed attractive UV absorption and photocatalytic characteristics, offering the conversion of this renewable and sustainable technology into intelligent cosmetic formulations.

title: Encapsulation of Olive Leaves Extracts in Biodegradable PLA Nanoparticles for Use in Cosmetic Formulation
abstract: The aim of the current work was to encapsulate olive leaves extract in biodegradable poly(lactic acid) nanoparticles, characterize the nanoparticles and define the experimental parameters that affect the encapsulation procedure. Moreover, the loaded nanoparticles were incorporated in a cosmetic formulation and the stability of the formulation was studied for a three month period of study. Poly(lactic acid) nanoparticles were prepared by the nanoprecipitation method. Characterization of the nanoparticles was performed using a variety of techniques: size, polydispersity index and z potential were measured by Dynamic Light Scattering; morphology was studied using Scanning Electron Microscopy; thermal properties were investigated using Differential Scanning Calorimetry; whereas FT IR spectroscopy provided a better insight on the encapsulation of the extract.  Efficiency was determined indirectly, using UV Vis spectroscopy. The loaded nanoparticles exhibited anionic z potential, a mean particle size of 246.3 5.3 nm (Pdi: 0.21 0.01) and equal to 49.2% while olive leaves extract release from the nanoparticles was found to present a burst effect at the first 2 hours. Furthermore, the stability studies of the loaded nanoparticles' cosmetic formulation showed increased stability compared to the pure extract, in respect to viscosity, pH, organoleptic characteristics, emulsions phases and grid.

title: Formation and Controlled Growth of Bismuth Titanate Phases into Mesoporous Silica Nanoparticles: An Efficient Self Sealing Nanosystem for UV Filtering in Cosmetic Formulation.
abstract: The application of nanosized inorganic UV filters in cosmetic field is limited by their high photocatalytic properties that could induce the degradation or dangerous transformation of the organic molecules in sunscreen formulations. To overcome this problem and simultaneously enlarge the window of filter's absorption, we propose the growth of bismuth titanates BixTiyOz into mesoporous silica nanoparticles (MSN) We investigated the chemical physical properties by means of XRPD, TEM, UV vis spectroscopy, N2 physisorption, XPS, and SF ICP MS analysis, while the influence on the environment was evaluated through photocatalytic tests. The growing process of this new nanosystem is discussed underlining the key role of the Bi3+ ion that, acting as a low melting point agent for the silica framework, led to a self sealing mechanism. The excellent UV shielding properties combined with a radical suppression of the photocatalytic activity make the proposed nanosystem a perfect candidate for the development of the next generation nanomaterials for sunscreen formulations.

title: Influence of UV filters on the texture profile and efficacy of a cosmetic formulation
abstract: Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of this study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation.

title: Histological and Immunohistochemical Evaluation of the Efficacy of a New Cosmetic Formulation in the Treatment of Skin Photoaging
abstract: Mechanism of action of cosmetic products is not often studied. The aim of this study is to determine the histological, immunohistochemical, and clinical changes of a new cosmetic formulation.  Prospective, single blind, patient controlled, randomized study in 10 volunteers with mild to moderate skin photoaging on the back of their hands. The product was applied on one hand and a standard cream on the other hand, twice a day for three months. Standardized photographs were taken on basal (T0) and final visit (T1) and skin biopsies were performed. Changes on histological and immunohistochemical markers were studied. Subjective clinical changes were determined.  After treatment, a 26.3% improvement on epidermal thickness was detected and a significant increase on collagens I and III, elastin, and fibronectin fibers was achieved (p 0.05) As the expression of MMPs remained stable, this improvement of dermal matrix was attributed to the stimulation of their synthesis. A significant clinical improvement on the treated hand was obtained, compared to control hand.  This new cosmetic product with combination of three registered technologies (IFC CAF, WGC, and RetinSphere) focused on regenerating dermal matrix and activating proliferation of skin cells, has shown to be efficient in the reversion of skin photoaging.

title: A novel alkaline keratinase from Bacillus subtilis DP1 with potential utility in cosmetic formulation.
abstract: The Bacillus subtilis DP1 was isolated from poultry farm soil at Anand district, India. The highest enzyme production (379.65U/ml) was obtained at pH 10.0, a temperature of 37degC and a growth period of 72h. The extracellular keratinase was purified by gel filtration chromatography with 27.98 purification fold. Purity was also confirmed by High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) analysis, where a major peak having retention time of 2.5min was obtained on C18 column using photo diode array detector. Purified keratinase was stable in a broad range of pH (8 12) and temperature (20 50degC) with optimum at pH 10.0 and 37degC. The metallic ions, Ca(2+ and Mg(2+ enhance keratinase activity. Secondary structure from Circular Dichroism (CD) spectra implies that purified keratinase is largely b pleated sheet rich protein. For preparation of dehairing cream formulation, compatibility studies of excipients were carried out. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) spectra of sodium stearate, calcium carbonate and sodium lauryl sulphate shows no reactivity of functional groups and hence mixture was compatible for formulation of keratinase dehairing cream. Prepared biological depilatory was able to remove hair more efficiently compared to marketed formulations.