Casquette d ' Afrique A casquette d ' Afrique was a type of lightweight military headgear generally used by the French metropolitan and colonial armies from the early 1830s to the 1860s . Background . By the late 18th century / early 19th century , European military uniform had developed from a relatively easy - fitting , all - purpose coat / waistcoat - tunic / breeches / hat ' suit ' of clothes worn by soldiers for all occasions into a separate formal parade - style uniform with stiff shako cap and another secondary simple uniform with soft cap for all other purposes . As most European armies ' enemies would be other European armies , it was accepted convention that only the best - dress uniform was to be worn into battle , though concession may be given to vagaries of weather . However , countries with expanding colonies , such as Great Britain , did not see the same need for formality whilst fighting its colonial wars and secondary uniforms with local modifications , tended to be worn . France too adopted this thinking when it embarked on a programme of colonial expansion into Algeria in 1830 . Description . Initially dressed mainly in dark blue / crimson full - dress uniforms and heavy leather shakos covered in black cloth with large brass badge , the French soon found such a uniform impractical in the testing climate of Algeria . Soon , they were wearing their simpler , secondary uniforms with Napoleonic - style soft cap known as " bonnet de police " . This was a form of forage or large side cap comprising a long , tapered cloth bag with tassel at the point , having a large turn - up at the base of the cap . The turn - up was called a " turban " , whilst the tapered bag was called a " flamme " . The long flamme could be worn hanging down the side of the wearer ' s head and over the shoulder , or else it could be doubled up and tucked into the turban , with just the tassel hanging down through a notch in the front of the turban . For infantry , the flamme was " garance " ( crimson ) colour , whilst the turban was dark blue . Narrow lines of dark blue piping ( " passepoil " ) ran up four sides of the flamme to the point . A cloth badge , such as a bursting grenade , was often worn on the front of the turban . Evolution . As the bonnet de police had no visor , it could not shield wearers ' eyes from the sun and alternative , visored , caps were being experimented with . One variety resembled a modern peaked cap with wide crown and horizontal visor , with dark blue band and crimson top and undersides . Other styles appeared , cylindrical in shape , with slightly sunken crimson top , crimson sides ( flamme ) , national red / white / blue cockade top front , and dark blue band ( turban ) with flat rounded visor and retractable leather neckflap . Early models had stiff lining , but other models had cane ( rattan ) skeleton framing for weight - reduction . Obviously influenced by the old bonnet de police , this cap became known as the casquette d ' Afrique ( African cap ) and became universal wear amongst France ' s European troops . Later models were more stylish and lightweight , one definitive trend being to taper the flamme / body toward the top , so the round top had a smaller diameter than the bottom of the cap and to tilt the flamme / body toward the front . Apart from being lighter , this also gave the cap a rakish , elegant appearance . New Shako . In December 1844 , a new black shako was introduced for the French Army , based on the shape of the casquette d ' Afrique . This started a series of new shako models over the years , often associated with the glory years of the last Empire of Napoleon III . The new tapered shako symbolised France ' s prestige to the extent that French uniform style was copied by many important armies of the 1850s / 60 ' s , including the British Army , Russian Army , United States Army and even some of the German states . Replacement by Kepi . 1852 saw the demise of the casquette d ' Afrique , when a smaller , softer version was introduced , known as " bonnet de police à visière " - or more commonly - " képi " . The kepi was basically a casquette d ' Afrique , reduced in overall size of body etc . , with stiffening removed . The casquette didn ' t disappear entirely however , as France ' s famous European colonial cavalry , " les Chasseurs d ' Afrique " continued to wear their " bleu ciel / garance " ( light blue / crimson ) " casquette " until 1939 as full dress , together with the more Arabic - looking " chéchia " style of fez . A famous Crimean photograph taken by Roger Fenton exists , showing a group of Chasseurs d ' Afrique wearing their casquettes d ' Afrique .