had made famous the table oif the ex-Marquise Sainte-Nitouche, ex-mistress of the even more ex-Duke Volte-face? But certainly not that Durand who once corrected Citizeness Marie Antoinette for adding mustard to a salad dressing before she had put in the salt? Impossible! But-but can anyone go to Number So-and-so, Rue Such-and-such? Hah!