Parka
date: label: Accession Date
content: 9 Feb 1882
name: label: Donor Name
content: Edward W. Nelson
notes: label: Notes
content: FROM CARD: "2 OF THESE COATS AS SHOWN. 1 FOUND. INVENTORIED 1975."
label: Notes
content: Source of the information below: Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center Alaska Native Collections: Sharing Knowledge website, by Aron Crowell, entry on this artifact https://alaska.si.edu/record.asp?id=140 , retrieved 12-28-2021; see web page for additional information: Elders from Barrow recognized this woman's caribou skin parka as coming from further south, around the Bering Sea. Each village maintains a distinctive parka style. The atigi or parka (a word of western Siberian-Russian origin) is a hooded, loose-fitting garment worn by both men and women. New and traditional designs are still made in Northwest Alaska today. Historically, parkas were sewn from a variety of pelts-caribou or reindeer, ground squirrel, muskrat, marmot, mink, fox, mountain sheep and lynx, as well as from bird skins with the feathers left on. Prior to the introduction of reindeer on the Seward Peninsula in 1892, Iñupiaq people traded across Bering Strait with Siberian Chukchi herders for white or spotted reindeer skin, which was used for making fancy parkas. North coast Iñupiat traded with interior villages for caribou hides, as well as other animal skins such as wolf, wolverine, mountain sheep and fox. Caribou and reindeer were often taken in the summer when the skins weighed less and the hair was finer and shorter. These light skins were used to make fancy clothing and inner garments. Plain parkas for everyday wear and for colder weather were made from heavier fall and winter skins. Women sewed parkas with thread made from the sinew of caribou, reindeer, whale and walrus. In very cold weather, two parkas were worn. The inner one would be of bird skins or animal pelts with the hair turned inward, while the outer one would be made of pelts with the hair side out. In summer, people wore light-weight parkas or older, worn-out ones with the fur facing to the outside. Waterproof hooded parkas made from seal intestines or fish skin were put on as a top layer to protect against rain or driving snow. When cloth became available from Western traders, people began wearing cotton outer parkas to protect their fur garments from snow. They took care to shake or beat the snow from an unprotected fur parka before entering a warm house, using a long, flattened piece of ivory, bone or antler. This prevented the fur from becoming wet, which over time would cause the hair to fall out. Similar parka patterns were used over wide areas of Northwest Alaska, but always with a distinct difference between men's and women's styles. A man's parka was shorter than a woman's, extending only to the hip or mid-thigh with a flared, straight, or slightly rounded bottom edge that was sometimes slightly longer in the back. The bottom of a woman's parka-as seen here-usually came down to, or below, the knee, with slits up the sides and U-shaped front and back flaps. Parkas for both sexes were trimmed at the bottom, wrist and shoulder with fur, often wolf or wolverine. The hood of a winter parka was usually trimmed with a fur ruff made from wolverine or wolf, or a combination of the two. When the hood was drawn up, the long hairs of the ruff projected around the wearer's face, shielding it from the cold wind. These furs have the important quality of shedding moisture from the wearer's breath so that ice does not build up around the edge of the hood. At the neck, both men's and women's parkas usually had narrow, triangular inserts, or gores, that extended part way down the front, as on this example. These gores attached the base of the hood to the front of the parka. Most gores were made from white short-haired caribou or reindeer skin that usually contrasted with the darker fur of the rest of the parka. Parkas for special occasions were ornamented with strips of skin sewn into patterns of contrasting colors. White parts of the design were made of caribou or scraped, winter-tanned sealskin; reddish elements were alder-dyed sealskin; and darker pieces could be caribou, seal or wolf-fish. Tufts of red wool and sometimes beads were also added. During important gatherings such as the Messenger Feast, people wore their best parkas for dancing in the community house and receiving guests, and fancy ones were given as gifts. Men and women usually wore belts around their parkas. A woman's belt-often ornamented with ivory carvings, metal buttons, beads or (in the Barrow area) wolverine feet-helped support a child carried against her back inside her parka, which was cut with extra space at the base of the neck and upper back to accommodate a child. Edward Nelson collected the parka pictured here from Cape Prince of Wales in 1882 and described it as follows: "The hood is bordered on each side by short-hair white-reindeer skin which extends to the shoulders and then divides and forms a long, narrow gore down the front and back of the garment. Between the white skin on the sides and the brown deerskin [caribou] forming the back or central part of the hood, extends a series of five narrow strips of white deerskin [caribou] with the hair shaved close and having welted into the seams narrow strips of black parchment-like skin. Two of these welted seams bordering the central one have little tufts of red wool set along at intervals of about one-fourth of an inch. Across the shoulders from front to back extend a similar series of strips of white deerskin [caribou] with black welted seams, and the lower border of the garment is ornamented with a broader band of the same handsome pattern. From the top and back of the shoulders, as well as on the middle of the back, are attached tassel-like strips of wolverine skin eight to ten inches in length."
label: Record Last Modified
content: 28 Dec 2021
label: Specimen Count
content: 1
place: label: Place
content: Cape Prince Of Wales, Alaska, United States, North America
topic: label: Topic
content: Ethnology
culture: label: Culture
content: Eskimo, Inupiaq
setName: label: See more items in
content: Anthropology
dataSource: label: Data Source
content: NMNH - Anthropology Dept.
identifier: label: Accession Number
content: 82A00003
label: USNM Number
content: E64272-0
objectType: label: Object Type
content: Parka
physicalDescription: label: Length - Object
content: 2 m