"Agriculture and Manufacture," Figured and Fancy, double-cloth coverlet; 1840; New York
date: label: Date made
content: 1840
notes: label: Description
content: This Jacquard double-cloth coverlet features a tulip, carpet medallion centerfield with eagle, federal architecture, and masonic motif borders. Inscribed in the coverlet’s corners and top and bottom edges are the name of the client, "Esther Jewil" and the phrase and date, "Agriculture & Manufactures are the Foundation of Our Independence. July 4, 1840." This coverlet was woven in Dutchess County, New York in 1840. Ester Jewell (1757-1844) was the recipient of this coverlet. It is interesting that the Jewell’s commissioned this coverlet just four years before her death. Esther’s husband, Isaac Jr., father-in-law, Isaac Sr., and brother-in-law were veterans of the American Revolution.
label: Description
content: This particular design and inscription was woven numerous times, and there are dated coverlets of this pattern from 1824-1840. Likely because of its bold patriotic statement, this coverlet design appears in major museums across the country. NMAH has another red and white coverlet of the same design. This design was initially associated with Scots-Irish weaver, James Alexander, but the consensus has changed as Alexander had retired from weaving in 1828 and none of the client names in Alexander’s account book matched those found on extant “Agriculture and Manufacture” coverlets.
label: Description
content: This group of coverlets was almost certainly woven by more than one weaver whose identities have not yet been found. The weavers were also almost certainly apprentices or journeymen working with Alexander before his retirement. The floral medallions harken back to Scottish and English double-woven carpet designs and are identical to those found on Alexander’s earlier coverlets. Even the Masonic and eagle borders featured on this coverlet are more refined versions of borders found on Alexander coverlets.
label: Description
content: The National Museum of American History also possesses two more of these “Agriculture and Manufacture” coverlets (see T14962 and T18131). Perhaps, Alexander sold his weaving equipment and patterns to former apprentices who joined in partnership? There are two groups of these coverlets and over 125 of them known. One group was woven in two sections and joined with a center seam, the other group was woven on a broad loom and does not have the center seam. The Esther Jewell coverlet falls into the latter group. Broad looms required either two weavers or the use of a fly shuttle to get the weft yarn back and forth across the wider width of the fabric, otherwise the loom and fabric width was dictated by the weaver’s arm width. There is also so speculation as to whether these particular patterns were executed on a draw loom of with the help of a Jacquard mechanism. Alexander’s weaving career almost entirely predates the introduction of the Jacquard head into the United States, suggesting that these coverlets which are so much in his fashion were almost certainly also woven on a draw loom.
label: Description
content: Being double-cloth, this coverlet has two sets of warps and wefts made of an Indigo wool 2-ply, S-twist, Z-spun warp and weft and a cotton 2-ply, S-Twist, Z-spun warp and weft. The warps and wefts change place throughout the weaving process, creating the contrasting designs and strengthening the structure and creating a heavier and warmer textile.
label: Location
content: Currently not on view
place: label: place made
content: United States: New York, Dutchess
label: place made
content: United States: New York, Dutchess
setName: label: See more items in
content: Home and Community Life: Textiles
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content: Coverlets
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content: Textiles
creditLine: label: Credit Line
content: Gift of Mr. Gerald Crosby
dataSource: label: Data Source
content: National Museum of American History
identifier: label: ID Number
content: TE.T16116
label: catalog number
content: T016116.000
label: accession number
content: 298210
objectType: label: Object Name
content: coverlet, figured
physicalDescription: label: Physical Description
content: double weave (overall production method/technique)
label: Physical Description
content: eagle, Masonic, carpet medallion (border pattern)
label: Physical Description
content: cotton, wool (center material)
label: Physical Description
content: blue, white (overall color)
label: Physical Description
content: figured and fancy (overall style)
label: Measurements
content: overall: 94 in x 76 in; 238.76 cm x 193.04 cm