Reproduction of evening bodice and skirt made by Elizabeth Keckley
date: label: Date
content: 20th century
name: label: Created by
content: Fredsapp, American
label: Subject of
content: Black Fashion Museum, American, 1979 - 2007
label: Subject of
content: Elizabeth Keckly, American, 1818 - 1907
notes: label: Description
content: This is a reproduction of an evening bodice and skirt made by Elizabeth Keckly for First Lady Mary Lincoln. The original garment is in the First Ladies Collection at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History.
label: Description
content: The bodice (a) features a v-neckline that is trimmed with maroon synthetic lace. It is slightly off the shoulder with a Bertha collar with three layers of lace. Under the layer of synthetic maroon lace, is a layer of black lace, and then a layer of white lace. The white machine lace is composed of two pieces of lace that have been sewn together to make a wider band. The black and white lace has been hand gathered and then sewn under the marron lace trim. The front of the bodice is composed of four panels of purple synthetic velvet fabric. White satin piping separates each panel of purple velvet, creating a center front seam and a princess seam. White satin piping is also sewn along the Basque waistline. The sleeves are made from one panel of purple velveteen that are seamed together at the underarm. Each sleeve features a layer of white machine lace around the upper arm. Black machine lace and white machine lace have been hand gathered and sewn to the inside of the sleeve.
label: Description
content: The back of the bodice closes with three sets of metal hook and eye closures at the center back. Below the hook and eye closures is a 10” metal zipper that is machine stitched on the proper right side of the bodice and hand stitched on the proper left side. Four panels of purple velveteen make up the back of the bust – two center back panels and two side panels. Each panel is separated by a line of white satin piping, creating a center back seam and princess seam. The inside of the bodice is lined with four panels of lavender synthetic lining. There are four darts in total – two bust darts and two back darts. A white fabric label is machine stitched to the interior lining of the bust. The label reads [FREDSAPP] in black text.
label: Description
content: The skirt (b) is composed of nine panels of purple velveteen fabric that have been hand gathered and machine sewn to 2.75” waistband. Four front panels, two side panels, and three back skirt panels are all separated with white satin piping, which also trims the skirt hem. The back of the skirt closes with two sets of flat metal hook and eyes that are handsewn to the waistband. An 8” plastic zipper with a metal pull bisects the center back of the skirt. It is hand stitched on the proper left and machine stitched to the proper right.
label: Description
content: A white fabric label machine stitched to the proper back interior waistband reads [FREDSAPP] in black text. There is an interior skirt made from seven panels of lavender lining, machine stitched together with raw edges and the seams pressed open. Two hanging tabs made from lavender synthetic lining are on either side of the interior waist of the skirt. A 2” band of synthetic horsehair material is sewn to skirt hem at the inside.
label: Cataloging Notes
content: This project received Federal support from the Smithsonian American Women’s History Initiative Pool, administered by the Smithsonian American Women’s History Museum.
topic: label: Topic
content: African American
label: Topic
content: Clothing and dress
label: Topic
content: Fashion
label: Topic
content: U.S. History, Civil War, 1861-1865
setName: label: See more items in
content: National Museum of African American History and Culture Collection
label: Collection title
content: Black Fashion Museum Collection
label: Classification
content: Clothing - Fashion and Historical
creditLine: label: Credit Line
content: Collection of the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, Gift of the Black Fashion Museum founded by Lois K. Alexander-Lane
dataSource: label: Data Source
content: National Museum of African American History and Culture
identifier: label: Object number
content: 2007.3.640ab
objectType: label: Type
content: bodices
label: Type
content: skirts
objectRights: label: Restrictions & Rights
content: No known copyright restrictions
label: Restrictions & Rights
content: Proper usage is the responsibility of the user.
physicalDescription: label: Medium
content: synthetic velveteen, satin piping, synthetic lace, synthethic faille lining, horsehair, and metal
label: Dimensions
content: a: Bust 38 in., Waist 31 in., Length 18.5 in., Hem 36 in.
label: Dimensions
content: b: Waist 28.25 in., Front Length 44 in., Back Length 58 in., Hem 197 in.