Jantzen Knitting Mills Collection
name: label: Creator
content: Jantzen, Carl C.
label: Names
content: Jantzen Knitting Mills.
label: Names
content: National Museum of American History (U.S.). Division of Costume
label: Names
content: Portland Knitting Company.
label: Names
content: Zehntbauer, John C.
topic: label: Topic
content: Bathing suits
label: Topic
content: Clothing Manufacturers
label: Topic
content: Knitting companies (Mills)
label: Topic
content: Textile industry
label: Topic
content: Textile fabrics
acqinfo: label: Provenance
content: Donated by Jantzen, Inc. in November 1973 and November 1978.
creator: label: Creator
content: Jantzen, Carl C.
setName: label: See more items in
content: Jantzen Knitting Mills Collection
abstract: label: Summary
content: Carl C. Jantzen and John C. Zehntbauer  founded the Portland Knitting Company in 1910 as a retail store selling knitted products (i.e. sweaters, hosiery, jackets). Carl Jantzen later invented an automated circular knitting machine that allowed the company to make light-weight materials for swimsuits. In 1916, the company first used the name Jantzen as their trademark and went on to specialize in swimsuits.
bioghist: label: Biographical / Historical
content: Known primarily for its swimsuits, the Jantzen Knitting Mills are located in Portland, OR.  John A. Zehntbauer and Carl C. Jantzen founded the company in 1910.  It was then called the Portland Knitting Co. and consisted of a retail store and "a few knitting machines on the second floor" where heavy sweaters, woolen hosiery and other articles of clothing were manufactured.

The two partners were intent on expanding their company, especially by means of a product that would give them an edge in the highly competitive knitting industry.  Fortunately, a member of a rowing club approached them one day and asked if they could make him a pair of rowing trunks "of a rib stitch."  The success of this item led to the company's specialization in the manufacture of swimsuits in the elastic rib stitch.  A patent for this suit was granted in 1921.
Carl Jantzen's inventiveness was responsible for the development of an automated circular knitting machine, a derivative of hosiery knitting machines, with a fine needle-bed which produced the light-weight material needed for swimsuits.  It also reduced the cost of knitting dramatically.

In 1916 the company first used the name Jantzen as a trademark in advertising, and in 1918 they changed the name officially to the Jantzen Knitting Mills. The name was again changed in 1954 to Jantzen Inc.

Early advertising campaigns were aimed at encouraging swimming.  One of the longest used slogans was "the Suit that Changed Bathing to Swimming."  An idea for a cut-out sticker of a "diving girl" in a red Jantzen suit and knitted cap was reported in a 1923 issue of Men's Wear N.Y. as "proving popular with auto-drivers--[and that] many windshields carry as many as 3 or 4 of the figure."  It also became the Jantzen logo.  Billboards were used extensively with artwork by George Petty and McClelland Barclay.  Ads in Life and Vogue in 1921 represented the first national advertising of the bathing suits and established the product as "first class."

Before the peak year of 1930, the firm operated factories in Canada, England, and Australia, in addition to exporting to many countries in Europe, South America, and the Phillippines.  After the Depression years of 1931-34, a decision was made to license companies in Europe, rather than operating there.  The decision was based on the uncertainty of U.S. foreign trade regulations and on the awareness of Zehntbauer, after a trip to Europe, of the political changes taking place.

In 1936 Jantzen made one of its greatest plant investments: a new spinning mill which was considered "the most up to date dying and spinning mill in the U.S."  It enabled Jantzen to experiment with different fibers instead of having to purchase them from other mills.  In the same year the firm hired their first female designer.

In 1937 serious considerations of making satin latex swimsuits--which were cut and sewn--were resolved in favor of keeping the elastic knit stitch.  By 1973 sales and earnings were the highest in the 63 year history.  Employees numbered 4,500.

Currently, Jantzen is owned by Vanity Fair Corporation.  The company also operates an archives which is limited to serious research inquiries.  Some historical information may also be located on their website: http://www.jantzen.com.
physdesc: label: Extent
content: 7 Cubic feet
unitdate: label: Date
content: 1925-1977
custodhist: label: Custodial History
content: The collection was transferred to the Archives Center  from the Division of Costumes (now Division of Home and Community Life) on August 8, 1986.
dataSource: label: Archival Repository
content: Archives Center, National Museum of American History
identifier: label: Identifier
content: NMAH.AC.0233
objectType: label: Type
content: Collection descriptions
label: Type
content: Archival materials
label: Type
content: Business records
label: Type
content: Catalogs
label: Type
content: Photograph albums
arrangement: label: Arrangement
content: This collection is arranged into five series.

Series 1: Sample Catalogues, 1974-1976

Series 2: Publications, 1925-1977

Series 3: Ccompany History, 1921, 1923-32, 1973

Series 4: Photographs, circa. 1920s-1930s

Series 5: Audiovisual Materials, 1951, 1976, undated

Subseries 5.1: Films, 1951

Subseries 5.2: Slide Presentation Materials, 1976
processinfo: label: Processing Information
content: Evelyn Wagman and Robert S. Harding, November 1986, Revised by Jennifer Snyder, February 2001; Robert Harding, June 2001.  The films were reunited with the paper materials in February 2001.
genre_format: label: Genre/Form
content: Business records -- 20th century
label: Genre/Form
content: Catalogs
label: Genre/Form
content: Photograph albums -- 20th century
scopecontent: label: Scope and Contents
content: This collection has a thorough representation of company newsletters, Jantzen Yarns, and many sample and print catalogues from the 1970s which show the Jantzen clothing and swimwear lines for misses, juniors, and men during that time.  There are several company histories written by Zehntbauer which were printed in Jantzen Yarns.  The photographs, though few in number, are a good sampling documenting Jantzen headquarters, as well as employees at work. The films, are aimed at store buyers and feature different lines of Jantzen clothing or swimwear, or are training films for sales representatives. 

Series 1: SAMPLE CATALOGUES, 1974-1976, includes sample catalogs are for misses, juniors, and men.

Series 2: PUBLICATIONS, 1925-1977, contains issues of Jantzen Yarns (house publication), 1925-1973 (some of the covers of the newsletters include cover art by noted "pin-up" artists George Petty, Jon Whitcomb, Pete Hawley, and Rene Gruau); Intra-Views (company newspaper); and clothing and swimwear catalogues for women, juniors, and men, 1972-1977.

Series 3: COMPANY HISTORY, 1921, 1923-32, 1973, includes photocopies of various company histories written by John A. Zehntbauer; a photocopy of a patent; and an annual report for 1973 (many volumes of Jantzen Yarns [Series 2] have annual reports as an issue).

Series 4: PHOTOGRAPHS, ca. 1920s/30s, consists of a group of photos (originally from an album) showing the main office building, warehouses, and photographs of groups of employees at work or in posed groups.

Series 5: AUDIOVISUAL MATERIALS, 1951, 1976, undated, is divided into two subseries. Subseries 5.1: Films, circa 1951, undated, consists of four films produced for store buyers and sales representatives. Subseries 5.2: Slide Presentation Materials, 1976, includes slides, script, and audiocassette for an in-plant presentation on the Misses Fall 1976 line of Jantzen clothing.
relatedmaterial: label: Related Materials
content: Materials in the Archives Center

Industry on Parade Film Collection (AC0507)

Contains a 1952 film about Jantzen entitled "Suited for Swimming!" which describes the manufacture of swim suits at the company's Portland, Oregon, plant.
separatedmaterial: label: Separated Materials
content: Related collections in the Division of Home and Community Life (now Division of Cultural and Community Life).  The collection includes bathing and swimming suits and men's, women's and children's clothing (tennis and exercise outfits, blouses, and trousers (1912-1990s). Items have been donated by Jantzen as well as private donors. Also available in the Division are samples of advertisements from the 1940s to 2000 and news articles about Jantzen.